EP2773316A2 - Émulsions eau-dans-huile cosmétiques ou dermatologiques présentant une teneur en urée et en polyglycéryl-4 diisostéarate/polyhydroxystéarate/sébacate - Google Patents

Émulsions eau-dans-huile cosmétiques ou dermatologiques présentant une teneur en urée et en polyglycéryl-4 diisostéarate/polyhydroxystéarate/sébacate

Info

Publication number
EP2773316A2
EP2773316A2 EP12778732.3A EP12778732A EP2773316A2 EP 2773316 A2 EP2773316 A2 EP 2773316A2 EP 12778732 A EP12778732 A EP 12778732A EP 2773316 A2 EP2773316 A2 EP 2773316A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
polyglyceryl
diisostearate
urea
water
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP12778732.3A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stephanie Von Der Fecht
Alexander Filbry
Silke Heinecke
Rainer Kröpke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP2773316A2 publication Critical patent/EP2773316A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing urea and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
  • Urea is considered in about 2% preparations as granulation (as granulation tissue is called the typical young, vascular-rich connective tissue, which is formed in the wound and ulcer healing or in chronic inflammation and after some time in scar tissue is transformed).
  • the dermatologist makes use of the hygroscopic (hydrophilic) effect of the urea, e.g. in the treatment of ichthyosis ("fish scale disease"), psoriasis and atopic dermatitis.
  • Hygroscopic substances primarily urea, retain moisture in the cornea as a natural moisturizing factor. If the water content in the horny layer (caused by urea deficiency) falls below 15%, e.g. In atopic eczema, the skin becomes dry, brittle and cracked. Similar to atopic dermatitis, psoriasis also lacks urea in the epidermis. The result is a strong dehydration of the affected skin areas.
  • urea In cosmetic skin preparations, urea is used as a substance that binds moisture in the skin (1 to 2%). A 10% aqueous solution of urea is bactericidal. After all, urea - which can be used both in pharmacy and cosmetics - has a keratolytic or keratoplastic effect (has a softening effect on the keratin of the skin) as well as relieves itching. Due to its polar structure, it holds the water in the skin and thereby keeps it smoothness and suppleness.
  • the effect of the active ingredient allantoin is also based on urea, as it is split off from the allantoin.
  • the problem is that just natural oils in combination with urea are difficult to formulate.
  • ethoxylated emulsifiers For the development of stable water-in-oil emulsions, ethoxylated emulsifiers have always had to be resorted to. As a result, it is often necessary to add sensory additives to the product in order to achieve a pleasant sensory perception of the product, since ethoxylated compounds tend to impart some tackiness to the cosmetic formulation.
  • the object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the object is achieved by cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing
  • Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate is characterized by an approximate structural element as follows
  • R 1 COO, R 2 COO and R 3 COO can independently of one another be isostearate and / or polyhydoxystearate, and n assumes values of about 2 to 3.
  • the molar ratio of polyhydroxystearate to isostearate should be about 1: 2.
  • the prior art discloses W / O emulsions with 5% urea, based on or ethyoxylated emulsifiers. These preparations are unstable with very high urea concentration (> 5%) or extremely viscous and therefore very sticky.
  • the weight ratio of urea on the one hand Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearates / sebacate on the other hand from the range of 100: 1 to 1 to 100, preferably 10: 1 to 1 to 10, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.01 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% of urea, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.0001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearates / Sebacate, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied according to the invention in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic or galenic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, dyes, pigments having a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic or galenic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, dyes, pigments having a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Preparation.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent: Water or aqueous solutions
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, glyceryl glucose, NMF complex, ceramides, cholesterol, sterols or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats preferably
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
  • alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent:
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
  • alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
  • Suitable propellants for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the context of the present invention the usual known volatile, liquefied propellants, such as hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) are suitable, which can be used alone or in mixture with each other. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • compressed air is advantageous to use.
  • propellants which would be useful in the practice of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should be avoided due to adverse environmental effects or other concomitant conditions, especially fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (US Pat. CFC).
  • Cosmetic preparations in the context of the present invention may also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents customarily used for it, preferably water, also organic thickening agents, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, e.g. For example, aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate.
  • the thickener is present in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0, 1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, included.
  • the preparations may advantageously contain further substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0, 1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations in order to provide cosmetic preparations, which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen.
  • the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0, 1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations in order to provide cosmetic preparations, which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des émulsions eau-dans-huile cosmétiques ou dermatologiques présentant une teneur en (a) urée et (b) polyglycéryl-4 diisostéarate/polyhydroxystéarate/sébacate.
EP12778732.3A 2011-11-01 2012-10-26 Émulsions eau-dans-huile cosmétiques ou dermatologiques présentant une teneur en urée et en polyglycéryl-4 diisostéarate/polyhydroxystéarate/sébacate Ceased EP2773316A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201110085535 DE102011085535A1 (de) 2011-11-01 2011-11-01 Kosmetische oder dermatologische Wasser–in–Öl-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt anHarnstoff und Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearat/Sebacat.
PCT/EP2012/071282 WO2013064432A2 (fr) 2011-11-01 2012-10-26 Émulsions eau-dans-huile cosmétiques ou dermatologiques présentant une teneur en urée et en polyglycéryl-4 diisostéarate/polyhydroxystéarate/sébacate

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2773316A2 true EP2773316A2 (fr) 2014-09-10

Family

ID=47080521

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP12778732.3A Ceased EP2773316A2 (fr) 2011-11-01 2012-10-26 Émulsions eau-dans-huile cosmétiques ou dermatologiques présentant une teneur en urée et en polyglycéryl-4 diisostéarate/polyhydroxystéarate/sébacate

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2773316A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102011085535A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2013064432A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3112286B1 (fr) * 2020-07-10 2023-02-24 Oreal Emulsion eau dans huile à haute teneur en phase interne aqueuse

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10333443A1 (de) 2003-07-23 2005-02-10 Goldschmidt Ag Emulgator für dünnflüssige W/O-Emulsionen auf Basis von teilvernetzten Polyglycerinestern der Polyhydroxystearinsäure
DE102007005186A1 (de) * 2007-01-29 2008-07-31 Merck Patent Gmbh Partikuläres UV-Schutzmittel
DE102008028821A1 (de) * 2007-06-20 2009-01-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetischer Stift auf Basis einer verdickten Öl-in-Wasser-Dispersion/Emulsion
EP2234578B1 (fr) * 2007-12-20 2015-10-21 L'Oréal Émulsion huileuse stabilisée avec un émulsifiant lipophile et un polysaccharide hydrophobiquement modifié
DE102009002417A1 (de) * 2009-04-16 2010-10-21 Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh Verwendung organomodifizierter, im Siliconteil verzweigter Siloxane zur Herstellung kosmetischer oder pharmazeutischer Zusammensetzungen

Non-Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 21 January 2011 (2011-01-21), ANONYMOUS: "Foot & Heel Cream", XP055608883, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 1467814 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 6 February 2009 (2009-02-06), ANONYMOUS: "Pro Collagen Intensive Cream", XP055608880, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 1044585 *
MEYER J ET AL: "A novel PEG-free emulsifier designed for formulating W/O lotions with a light skin feel", SOFW-JOURNAL SEIFEN, OELE, FETTE, WACHSE, VERLAG FUR CHEMISCHE INDUSTRIE, AUGSBURG, DE, vol. 131, no. 11, 1 January 2005 (2005-01-01), pages 20 - 28, XP009104229, ISSN: 0942-7694 *
See also references of WO2013064432A2 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2013064432A3 (fr) 2014-04-24
DE102011085535A1 (de) 2013-05-02
WO2013064432A2 (fr) 2013-05-10

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