EP2909368B1 - Rohling und schlauchgestrick mit rutschfestem rand einfacher dicke, und verfahren zur herstellung dieses artikels - Google Patents

Rohling und schlauchgestrick mit rutschfestem rand einfacher dicke, und verfahren zur herstellung dieses artikels Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2909368B1
EP2909368B1 EP13785542.5A EP13785542A EP2909368B1 EP 2909368 B1 EP2909368 B1 EP 2909368B1 EP 13785542 A EP13785542 A EP 13785542A EP 2909368 B1 EP2909368 B1 EP 2909368B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitted
rows
yarn
item
article
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP13785542.5A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2909368A1 (de
Inventor
Gilles GARCON
Laurent Massotte
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DBI Operations Europe SAS
Original Assignee
Hanes Operations Europe SAS
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Hanes Operations Europe SAS filed Critical Hanes Operations Europe SAS
Publication of EP2909368A1 publication Critical patent/EP2909368A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2909368B1 publication Critical patent/EP2909368B1/de
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • D02G3/385—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn using hollow spindles, e.g. making coverspun yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06F—LAUNDERING, DRYING, IRONING, PRESSING OR FOLDING TEXTILE ARTICLES
    • D06F7/00—Washing devices adapted to be used independently of any particular receptacle, e.g. for removable mounting on wash-tubs, bath-tubs, or the like

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitted textile article, comprising a tubular portion terminated by a holding edge.
  • the invention particularly relates to a panty whose holding edge is constituted by the waist portion which surrounds the size of the wearer. It may relate to other tubular knitted articles, including lower body articles, such as pants or footwear intended to dress the lower body to the foot, including, in addition to the pantyhose already mentioned, the stockings, knee high, socks or high socks.
  • the holding edge is conventionally made in the form of an extensible knit strip adapted to exert a pressure for holding the article in place, a pressure greater than that exerted by the rest of the article, in particular its tubular part.
  • the retaining edge is usually made by a double-thick knit edge-coast, whose dimensions and the texture vary depending on the construction characteristics and thickness of the tubular part of the article. This technique is illustrated for a mid-low in the document FR 2 946 668 and for a tights in the document EP 0 556 068 .
  • pantyhose by knitting two tubes on a circular loom, opening the top of each tube along a substantially vertical cut and assembling the two tubes together at the edges of said cutouts so as to form the part of pantyhose pantyhose.
  • the waistband portion of the pantyhose may be formed by sewing an attached waist band or more traditionally by a double knit thickness obtained during the knitting itself, the dimensions and texture of which vary according to the characteristics of construction and thickness from the bottom to the waist.
  • This double thickness can be obtained by knitting a lapel that is hooked by knitting to the tube of the article, according to what is called a "hanging plate"; this double-thickness part visually offers a fairly important demarcation with the rest of the silhouette, which can even be visible under clothing.
  • a thin elastic knitted lingerie article having an elastic holding edge, comprising a thin elastic knit thickness and a strip of elastic material heat-sealed to said thin elastic knit thickness, which elastic material is advantageously also knitted in fine knit.
  • the first knitted rows can not be knitted on all needles, in contrast to the "normal" rows of the tubular base article; they are knitted, for example, firstly one needle out of four, then one needle out of two; there is therefore in these first rows less absorbed yarn length (LFA) and it follows that these first rows have less extensibility than the following rows and those of the rest of the article, so that the article is a little more constrained at the edge of the belt than on the rest of the article; it is a source of discomfort for the wearer.
  • LFA absorbed yarn length
  • the object of the invention is to provide a manufacturing method and a tubular article thus manufactured which do not have these disadvantages.
  • the invention achieves its goal by a method of manufacturing a tubular knitted article according to which the article is knitted on a circular loom having a number n of needles and a number c of falls, the knit being starting knitted on a number p of first rows on only some of the n needles before being knitted on all the needles on a number q of subsequent rows, whereupon the base knit is knitted normally, characterized in that knitting on said first rows and on said following rows an elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn, and then subjecting the knitted article once to the article to an aqueous treatment of so as to remove the water-soluble yarn of garment, whereby it is kept on the edge of the article p + q rows of knitted naked spandex which precede the normal basic knit.
  • the numbers n, c, p and q are integers.
  • Water-soluble yarns which can be dissolved in steam or preferably in hot water, are well known in themselves. They have already been used in the textile industry to separate warp knitted articles, for example according to the documents FR 2,272,213 and EP 0 037 629 .
  • Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) yarns for example sold under the trade names SOLVRON® or DURAFIL®, are generally used.
  • the article obtained after this first stage of the process of the invention is a blank of the finished product, which requires various treatments including generally at least one preparation treatment (for example to assemble the two tubes of the adhesive) and a dyeing treatment.
  • the aqueous treatment for removing the water-soluble yarn is combined with the dyeing treatment, which is a single operation.
  • the dyeing treatment also operates the prefixing of the article. It is then followed by the confection treatment necessary to finish the final article (in particular to assemble the two sticky tubes together to form the panty portion of the pantyhose), the garment then using dyed yarn since the blanks are already dyed.
  • the aqueous treatment is a washing which at the same time makes it possible to prefix the article dimensionally. It is then followed by the garment treatment to form the finished article, the garment may use unbleached thread since the article is not yet dyed, and the made-up article is then sent to dyeing.
  • the invention also relates to the intermediate product formed by knitting and before disappearance of the water-soluble yarn, namely the blank of tubular knitted article. More specifically, the invention relates to a blank of tubular knitted article comprising a knitted start on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, whereupon the knit is the normal basic knit. characterized in that said first rows and said following rows are made of elastane yarn wrapped with a water-soluble yarn.
  • the invention finally relates to the final product obtained after the disappearance of the water-soluble yarn. More specifically, the invention relates to a tubular knitted article comprising a knitted top on first rows with skipped columns followed by the next knitted rows on all the columns, after which the knit is the normal basic knit, characterized in that this said first rows and the following rows are made of elastane yarn. It will be observed that in the final product, the first p + q rows are pure elastane, naked, which is very difficult, if not impossible, to obtain without the method of the invention. In particular, it is known from the document EP 1 956 125 a knit whose edge is made by rows of elastic polyurethane yarn, but this thread is surrounded by nylon, so that the edge thus produced is not at all invisible as that of the invention.
  • the number p of first rows of knitting on only part of the needles is advantageously equal to 2 and the number q is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably greater than or equal to 2.
  • the elastane yarn is advantageously a yarn less than 20 dtex, for example 17 dtex, and composed of many filaments, typically more than 20, for example 31, which allows it to hang the dye well and therefore to be noticeably noticeable to the eye on the edge of the finished dyed article.
  • FIG. 1 is a traditional representation of the knitting a sticky leg.
  • the pantyhose leg of the invention can be knitted using a 404MJ Lonati type loom (4 falls).
  • the figure 1 shows a tubular leg 10 in several successive sections: a starting part T on which specifically bears the invention, a belt portion C, a part S of panty and thigh, a part J leg itself, a part SM said "Stop meshes" and a peak part P.
  • the knitting of all the parts except the starting part T is what is called here a basic or normal basic knit for this kind of article. he has been illustrated here for the four falls 1, 2, 3, 4 in a jersey knit based on polyamide 6.6 (PA66) vanized or not with elastane (R22). It could be other fibers, the invention does not relate to the realization of normal knitting.
  • PA66 polyamide 6.6
  • the figure details the knitting of the starting part T and schematically shows the first four rows of stitches 11, 12, 13, 14 before the aqueous treatment (right part, stage of the product blank) and after the aqueous treatment (part left, stage of the finished product).
  • the four falls of the loom are knitted in the same thread 20 made of a 21-spandex Roica® 17dtex elastane of 31 monofilaments, gimped in simple flat gimp (SGP) of a water-soluble yarn 22 of PVA ( polyvinyl alcohol) SOLVRON® brand.
  • SGP simple flat gimp
  • PVA polyvinyl alcohol
  • the knitting comprises a first row 11 knitted 1 needle out of 4 (thus on 100 needle of the 400 needles of the trade), leaving three meshes jumped on three adjacent columns between the meshes formed (it is represented by a cross each column skipped), then a second row 12 knitted 1 needle out of 2 (so on 200 needles of the 400 needles of the trade), then finally two rows 13, 14 or more knitted on the 400 needles. All these rows 11-14 are therefore spandex covered with water-soluble yarn, at the level of the blank of the product.
  • the water soluble yarn 22 is dissolved in the water and is eliminated, leaving bare the elastane 21, so that the mesh is obtained.
  • first rows of stitches are made of bare spandex, first 1 needle out of 4, then 1 needle out of 2, then on all the needles.
  • the belt C can be knitted in single thickness, like the rest of the tights.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
  • Seasonings (AREA)

Claims (10)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauchgestrickartikels (10), wobei der Artikel auf einer Rundstrickmaschine gestrickt wird, die mit einer Anzahl n von Nadeln und einer Anzahl c von Fadenzulieferstellen ausgestattet ist, wobei das Gestrick zunächst über eine Anzahl p erster Reihen auf nur einigen der n Nadeln gestrickt wird, bevor es auf der Gesamtheit der Nadeln über eine Anzahl q nächster Reihen gestrickt wird, woraufhin das Basisgestrick normal gestrickt wird, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass über die p ersten Reihen (11, 12) und über die q folgenden Reihen (13, 14) ein mit einem wasserlöslichen Faden (22) umwundener Elastanfaden (21) gestrickt wird, und dass danach, sobald der Artikel gestrickt ist, der Artikel einer Wasserbehandlung unterzogen wird, um den wasserlöslichen Umwindungsfaden (22) zu entfernen, wodurch am Rand des Artikels p+q Reihen (11-14) gestrickten Elastans verbleiben, welche dem normalen Basisgestrick vorangehen.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Wasserbehandlung zwecks Entfernung des wasserlöslichen Fadens (22) mit einer Farbbehandlung kombiniert wird.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Farbbehandlung eine Konfektionsbehandlung folgt, welche gefärbten Faden verwendet.
  4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Wasserbehandlung zwecks Entfernung des wasserlöslichen Fadens (22) ein Waschen ist.
  5. Verfahren nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Wasserbehandlung eine Konfektionsbehandlung folgt, welche naturfarbenen Faden verwendet, und der konfektionierte Artikel dann zum Färben geschickt wird.
  6. Rohling eines Schlauchgestrickartikels (10), umfassend einen gestrickten Beginn (T) über p erste Reihen mit übersprungenen Stäbchen, gefolgt von q nächsten Reihen, die über alle Stäbchen gestrickt sind, woraufhin das Gestrick das normale Basisgestrick ist,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die p ersten Reihen (11, 12) und die q nächsten Reihen (13, 14) aus einem mit einem wasserlöslichen Faden (22) umwundenen Elastanfaden (21) hergestellt sind.
  7. Schlauchgestrickartikel (10), umfassend einen gestrickten Beginn (T) über p erste Reihen mit übersprungenen Stäbchen, gefolgt von q nächsten Reihen, die über alle Stäbchen gestrickt sind, woraufhin das Gestrick das normale Gestrick ist,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die p ersten Reihen (11, 12) und die q nächsten Reihen (13, 14) ausschließlich aus einem nackten Elastanfaden (21) hergestellt sind.
  8. Artikel nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Elastanfaden (21) einen Titer unter 20 dtex hat.
  9. Artikel nach Anspruch 7 oder 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Elastanfaden (21) aus über 20 Filamenten zusammengesetzt ist.
  10. Artikel nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die erste Reihe (11) mit einer gestrickten Masche und drei übersprungenen Stäbchen gestrickt ist und die zweite Reihe (12) mit einer gestrickten Masche und einem übersprungenen Stächen gestrickt ist.
EP13785542.5A 2012-10-16 2013-10-10 Rohling und schlauchgestrick mit rutschfestem rand einfacher dicke, und verfahren zur herstellung dieses artikels Not-in-force EP2909368B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1259871A FR2996860B1 (fr) 2012-10-16 2012-10-16 Ebauche et article tricote tubulaire a bord de maintien en simple epaisseur et procede de fabrication d'un tel article
PCT/FR2013/052413 WO2014060682A1 (fr) 2012-10-16 2013-10-10 Ebauche et article tricote tubulaire a bord de maintien en simple epaisseur et procede de fabrication d'un tel article

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2909368A1 EP2909368A1 (de) 2015-08-26
EP2909368B1 true EP2909368B1 (de) 2019-09-11

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP13785542.5A Not-in-force EP2909368B1 (de) 2012-10-16 2013-10-10 Rohling und schlauchgestrick mit rutschfestem rand einfacher dicke, und verfahren zur herstellung dieses artikels

Country Status (9)

Country Link
US (1) US9976235B2 (de)
EP (1) EP2909368B1 (de)
CN (1) CN104736751B (de)
BR (1) BR112015006690A2 (de)
CA (1) CA2883829C (de)
ES (1) ES2759009T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2996860B1 (de)
MX (1) MX349032B (de)
WO (1) WO2014060682A1 (de)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102015100936B4 (de) * 2015-01-22 2018-08-23 Medi Gmbh & Co. Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gestrickteils, insbesondere einer Bandage, sowie Gestrickteil
DE102015017212B4 (de) 2015-01-22 2025-09-04 Medi Gmbh & Co. Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gestrickteils, insbesondere einer Bandage, sowie Gestrickteil
US10415164B2 (en) * 2017-05-02 2019-09-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US11299828B2 (en) * 2018-07-02 2022-04-12 The Lycra Company Llc Knit structures with reduced curl and roll over and a method of making same
US20210071329A1 (en) * 2019-09-09 2021-03-11 Kayser-Roth Corporation Garment with knitted silicone yarns and manner of making same

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA2883829A1 (en) 2014-04-24
US9976235B2 (en) 2018-05-22
MX2015003836A (es) 2015-07-17
BR112015006690A2 (pt) 2017-07-04
CA2883829C (en) 2020-07-21
MX349032B (es) 2017-07-07
US20150275407A1 (en) 2015-10-01
EP2909368A1 (de) 2015-08-26
FR2996860B1 (fr) 2018-04-06
ES2759009T3 (es) 2020-05-07
FR2996860A1 (fr) 2014-04-18
CN104736751B (zh) 2016-12-14
CN104736751A (zh) 2015-06-24
WO2014060682A1 (fr) 2014-04-24

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