EP2934675A2 - Utilisation d'un agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins une association de polymeres speciale pour améliorer la tenue de colorations oxydatives de cheveux - Google Patents
Utilisation d'un agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins une association de polymeres speciale pour améliorer la tenue de colorations oxydatives de cheveuxInfo
- Publication number
- EP2934675A2 EP2934675A2 EP13796033.2A EP13796033A EP2934675A2 EP 2934675 A2 EP2934675 A2 EP 2934675A2 EP 13796033 A EP13796033 A EP 13796033A EP 2934675 A2 EP2934675 A2 EP 2934675A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- copolymer
- structural unit
- weight
- acid
- alkyl radical
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
- A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the use of a hair treatment composition containing a combination of at least one nonionic propylene oxide-modified starch with at least one film-forming and / or setting anionic polymer to improve the color retention of oxidative hair colorations and to corresponding methods of treating keratin-containing fibers.
- all animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
- the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
- keratinic fibers for example human keratin fibers
- dyeing compositions which contain, among other constituents, oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases ("developers") .
- developers oxidation bases
- couplers a second group of oxidation dye precursors
- keratin fibers are dyed with the aid of direct dyes.
- These direct-acting dyes are colored molecules that are absorbed by the surface of the keratin fibers.
- the coloring of the keratinic fiber obtained by oxidation dyes or substantive dyes fades due to external influences such as light, but in particular due to repeated hair washing.
- a first object of the present invention is therefore the use of an agent contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
- At least one copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
- R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
- R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
- R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2
- copolymer A different from copolymer A having at least one structural unit (B1)
- R 4 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
- oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers for improving the color content of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively dyed human hair.
- the improvement of the color content according to the invention comprises the preservation of the color when exposed to external influences.
- the colorant thus includes, for example, phenomena such as the fastness to washing, lightfastness, rubfastness or perspiration fastness of oxidative hair dyeing.
- the use according to the invention with regard to the color retention after washing of the keratin fibers has particular advantages.
- the use according to inventive compositions for improving the wash fastness of oxidatively colored keratin-containing fibers, in particular oxidatively colored human hair, is therefore a preferred embodiment of the present application.
- the agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
- This cosmetic carrier is watery, alcoholic or watery-alcoholic.
- aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
- an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
- Preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their total weight, 40 to 99 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 98 wt .-%, particularly preferably 60 to 95 wt .-% and in particular 70 to 90 wt .-% water.
- compositions according to the invention containing as the first essential constituent a copolymer A comprising the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4).
- the copolymer A is at least 70 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt. -% consists of the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4).
- Further preferred copolymers A consist entirely of the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4).
- the radical R 1 in the structural unit (A1) is an ether radical, preferably a polyalkoxylated radical.
- R 1 in formula (A1) is a radical -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2 ) x (O [CH 2 ] 2) yOCH 3 in which x and y independently of one another have a value between 1 and 100.
- the radical R2 in the structural unit (A2) is preferably an amino-containing radical, preferably a radical with a tertiary amine. Particular preference is given to structural units (A2) in which R 2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3 -N (CH 3) 2 .
- At least one of the radicals R 3 is preferably at least one alkyl radical, preferably a (C 1 to C 4) -alkyl radical.
- Structural units are particularly preferred (A3) in which 2 CH 3 or -CHzCHzCHs, preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R 3 in formula (A3), R 3 is -CH H.
- copolymers A consist of at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% Wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt .-%, most preferably completely from the structural units (A1), (A2), (A3) and (A4):
- A2 a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
- R1 in formula (A1) represents a radical -CH (CH 3) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2) x (0 [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3, where x and y are independently a Value between 1 and 100;
- R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3 -N (CH 3 ) 2 ;
- R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2.
- A-I) Copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least
- A2 a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
- R1 in formula (A1) represents a radical -CH (CH 3) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3) CH 2) x (0 [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3, where x and y are independently a Value between 1 and 100;
- R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
- a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is -CH 2 CH 3 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3, preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is H.
- A-III) Copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least
- A2 a structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4), in which
- R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
- - R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH2) 3-N (CH3) 2;
- a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is -CH 2 CH 3 or -CHzCHzCHs , preferably -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in the formula (A3) is H.
- radical R1 in formula (A1) is a radical -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 - (OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2) x (O [CH 2] 2) y OCH 3 , in which x and y independently of one another a value between 1 and 100;
- radical R2 in formula (A2) is a radical - (CH 2 ) 3-N (CH 3) 2 ;
- a radical R3 is -CH 2 CH 3 and a radical R3 in formula (A3) is H.
- the proportion by weight of the copolymer A in the total weight of cosmetic agents according to the invention is preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight.
- the agents according to the invention contain a copolymer B comprising the structural unit (B1).
- the copolymer B it has proved to be advantageous if the copolymer B to at least 70 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt. -% consists of the structural unit (B1). Further preferred copolymers B consist entirely of the structural unit (B1).
- the radical R4 in the structural unit (B1) is an alkyl radical, preferably a C1 to C4 alkyl radical.
- the structural unit (B1), in which the radical R 4 is -CH 3 is particularly preferred.
- the proportion by weight of copolymer B in the total weight of cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7.0% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight.
- An inventively preferred cosmetic agent is characterized in that the total amount of the mixture of copolymer A and copolymer B, based on the total weight of the composition, 0, 1 to 10.0 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-%, is.
- the Copoylmere A and B can be incorporated in the agent of the invention in pure form.
- the copolymers A and B it has proved to be advantageous to use the copolymers A and B in prefabricated form, that is to say in combination with further active ingredients or auxiliaries. Particular preference is given to using mixtures of the copolymers A and B in this case.
- the weight ratio of the copolymer A to the copolymer B in preferably used polymer mixtures is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 8: 1 to 1: 8 and very particularly preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 5.
- the weight ratio of the copolymer A to the copolymer B is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 8: 1 to 1: 8 and very particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5.
- the copolymer B is used in excess.
- the copolymers A and B described above or mixtures thereof are preferably combined with additional auxiliaries.
- Particularly preferred is the use of alcohols.
- a preferred class of alcohols are the diols, especially the 1, 2 diols.
- 1, 2 octanediol is used.
- the 1, 2 Octanediol not only facilitates the further processing of the copolymers A and B, or their mixtures, but additionally reinforced their advantageous technical effect, in particular their nourishing effect.
- the aforementioned diols can be incorporated together with the copolymers A and B, or their mixture, or separately from the copolymers A and B in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
- the cosmetic agents used according to the invention may additionally contain at least one further, different from the copolymers A and B consolidating polymer.
- Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents, Hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays.
- the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
- Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
- Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
- Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
- the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
- film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
- the properties of the agent according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous when it is formulated as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail.
- Particularly preferred film-forming and / or setting polymers are anionic.
- an anionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which, in standard conditions, contains structural units in a protic solvent with anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality and which has no structural units with permanently cationic groups.
- Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
- Film-forming anionic and / or reinforcing anionic polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II) have proven to be particularly effective,
- R and R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, with the proviso that R and R 2 do not simultaneously represent a methyl group, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
- R 4 represents a carbamoyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 d 2) - alkylaminocarbonyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 2) -Alkylaminoethyl- aminocarbonyl group, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 2) - Alkylaminopropyl aminocarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 4 to C 12 ) -Alkyloxycarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 4 to Ci 2 ) -Alkylaminoethyloxycarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 4 to Ci 2 ) -Alkylaminopropyloxycarbonyl distr, a linear or branched (C 2 to Ci 2) is acyloxy,
- A is a hydroxy group or an organic radical having at least one sulfonic acid group which binds to the structural fragment via an oxygen atom or a group NH.
- the additional setting polymers are particularly preferred in the agent used in the invention in an amount of 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 0 wt .-% to 9.0 wt .-%, especially preferably from 3.0% by weight to 8.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition used according to the invention.
- the additional fixing anionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (I) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (1-1) to (I-5)
- the said additional fixing polymer additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (III) in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) (III)
- R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- R 6 is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).
- Copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and tert-butyl acrylate are for example preferred.
- the additional reinforcing anionic polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (II) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (11-1) to (11-15)
- X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
- R is a (C 2 to C 12 ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).
- X 3 according to formulas (II-5) to (11-12) stands for an oxygen atom.
- the agent used according to the invention comprises at least one additional fixing anionic polymer which has at least one structural unit of the formula (1-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (II-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (II -16) (especially selected from the group formed from the above formulas (II-5) to (11-12) with the proviso that X 3 represents an oxygen atom),
- X 3 is an oxygen atom or a group NH
- R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- R 7 is an alkyl group having 4 carbon atoms (especially n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl or tert-butyl).
- the additional fixing polymer in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (1-1), (II-3) and (11-16) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (III)
- R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- R 9 is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).
- Preferred additional strengthening polymers of this type are selected from the group formed by:
- Copolymers of acrylic acid, (C- ⁇ to C 4 ) -alkyl acrylates, C 4 -alkylaminoethyl methacrylate and Cs-alkylacrylamide are examples of acrylic acid, (C- ⁇ to C 4 ) -alkyl acrylates, C 4 -alkylaminoethyl methacrylate and Cs-alkylacrylamide.
- the polymer is that available under the trade name Amphomer ® 028-4910 from National Starch polymer having the INCI name
- agents are preferred according to the invention which comprise as additional anionic setting polymer at least one polymer which contains at least one structural unit of the formula (I-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (I-13)
- Preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed
- Polymers of this type are, for example, in an inverse isohexadecane emulsion by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepigel ® 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7) or Simulgel ® 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer , Isohexadecane, polysorbate-80).
- An agent used particularly preferably according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as polymer a copolymer (b1).
- copolymers (b1) can be defined by the general formula
- indices m, n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.
- the copolymer (b1) has a molecular weight of 50 to 500 kDa, preferably 100 to 450 kDa, more preferably 150 to 400 kDa and especially 200 to 300 kDa.
- Copolymers of acrylamide with methacrylic acid and acryloyldimethyltaurate are available for example under the trade name Acudyne ® SCP (Rohm & Haas).
- such agents are preferred as being according to the invention which contain as additional anionic setting polymer at least one polymer which at least one structural unit of the formula (I-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (I-13)
- R 5 is a (C 2 to d 2 ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).
- Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed
- Such copolymers are, for example, from the company Clariant under the trade name Aristoflex A 60 (INCI name: VA Crotonates Copolymer) in an isopropanol-water mixture (60 wt .-% active ingredient), from BASF under the trade name Luviset CA 66 ( Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer 90:10, INCI name VA Crotonates Copolymer) provided by National Starch under the trade name Resyn 28-2942 or Resyn 28-2930 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer) ,
- compositions used according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for hair care products, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.
- the agents according to the invention are preferably configured as a cream or gel or pump foam or aerosol foam.
- the cosmetic carrier is in cream form or gel form or foam form.
- a cream is understood to mean a composition in the form of a disperse system which, in addition to water, additionally contains fat and / or oil.
- suitable fats or oils are described in the course of this application (vide infra).
- a gel is to be understood to mean a dimensionally stable, easily deformable and dispersed system which consists of a colloidally divided substance with a long or highly branched structure Particles and a liquid exist as a dispersant.
- Long or highly branched particles are preferably polymeric thickeners (vide infra).
- a foam according to the invention is understood to mean a disperse system in which a gas is present as a divided phase in a liquid as a continuous phase.
- the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle.
- the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes.
- the surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.
- the additional surfactants are preferably used in the agent used in the invention in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent, included.
- agents used according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
- Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
- hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.
- Such compounds are, for example
- R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
- R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- w is a number from 1 to 20 .
- R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
- G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
- p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
- alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
- the agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
- ethylene oxide in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide
- linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
- These are very particularly preferably Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-25 or Ceteareth- 50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ® CS 50 (Cognis).
- Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
- Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
- Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
- R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906,
- Condensation products of C 8 - C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
- Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
- quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
- the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as In cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium trichloride, lauryldimethylbenzylamine, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
- Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
- Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ _) in the molecule - Wear group - or -S0 3 ⁇ _).
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid
- Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - C 2 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts .
- suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
- Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acy
- the agents used according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
- Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent.
- alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
- at least one (C 1 to C 4 ) monoalkyl alcohol in the agents according to the invention in particular in an amount of from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight. This is in turn preferred in particular for the packaging as pump foam or aerosol foam.
- organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included.
- Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such Pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
- particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
- compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.
- the agents preferably have a pH of from 6.8 to 9.5, in particular from 7.0 to 8.5, on.
- the pH values refer to the pH at 25 ° C, unless stated otherwise.
- compositions used according to the invention may further comprise the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.
- auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
- a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used as a care material.
- Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
- Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
- the term "silicone oils” is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols.
- Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Em
- Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
- Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable.
- Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid.
- the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion.
- the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
- both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
- the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
- the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 ⁇ , preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ , more preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 ⁇ .
- the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
- branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers.
- branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
- Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
- the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
- Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.
- those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g.
- the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
- the agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
- the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
- Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
- the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
- protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
- Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex), sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
- the protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.
- the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
- vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
- vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
- the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
- vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
- the agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
- the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex include vitamin B- ⁇ (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)), vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone), vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid), vitamin H.
- vitamin B- ⁇ thiamine
- vitamin B 2 riboflavin
- vitamin B 3 nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)
- vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone
- vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
- vitamin C ascorbic acid
- vitamin E to
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
- the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.
- the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol.
- the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
- the compositions used according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
- extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
- mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts may be preferable to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the compositions used according to the invention.
- Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.
- Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used.
- the use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention.
- those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.
- Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose.
- Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate.
- derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses such as the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention.
- Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid.
- Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol.
- Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides. Since the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (for example D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).
- the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
- the agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.
- Lipids which are suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and those mentioned under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride Phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates known substances. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA® , Phospholipid PTC® and Phospholipid SV® .
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
- the agent according to the invention is formulated as a cream - that the cosmetic agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one oil phase.
- an oil phase is understood as meaning a phase which is liquid at 20 ° C. and dissolves at 20 ° C. to less than 1 g in 100 g of water.
- the oil phase preferably has a viscosity of up to 1000 mPas, (Brookfield, RVDV II +, 20 ° C., 20 revolutions per minute, spindle no. 1).
- the oil of the oil phase is selected from at least one oil of the group that is formed
- Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C 6 - to C 2 2 fatty acids with glycerol Liquid fatty acids and / or their mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched C 6 - to C 2 2 fatty acids with glycerol.
- Preferred vegetable oils are selected from at least one member of the group formed from amaranth oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sesame oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
- Preferred ester oils are selected from esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
- the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
- fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the Dimerization of
- fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and Brassidylalkohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
- isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
- isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
- 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
- stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
- cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600)
- Mono, di- and triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol which are preferably usable as oil in the oil phase are in particular the triglyceride esters of capric acid and caprylic acid (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric triglycerides), for example obtainable as a commercial product Cognis under the name myritol ® 312th
- the additional oil phase is preferably in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 wt .-% to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.
- agents according to the invention which additionally contain at least one fatty substance.
- a fatty substance is understood as meaning those compounds which are soluble at less than 1 g at 20 ° C. in 100 g of water.
- the fatty substance is preferably selected from at least one fatty substance which is formed the group of candelilla wax, shea butter, carnauba wax, beeswax, coconut oil, C 12 to C 2 o-fatty acids (particularly stearic acid)
- the additional fatty substance is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.05% by weight to 35% by weight, in particular from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. contain. If the agents according to the invention are in the form of a cream or a gel, it is preferred according to the invention to additionally add at least one polymeric thickener. This thickener is different from the said propylene oxide modified starches.
- acrylamide copolymer acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer
- acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer
- acrylates / beheneth-25-methacrylate copolymer acrylates / C10.
- the polymeric thickener is particularly preferably chosen from polymeric, anionic, amphiphilic thickeners, particularly preferably those having the INCI names Acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-20 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates /
- the polymeric thickeners are preferably present in an amount of from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in the composition according to the invention in cream or gel form. This is preferably a transparent gel according to the invention.
- UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
- the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
- UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, a- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts
- the UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0, 1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
- the agent used in the invention further contains one or more substantive dyes.
- Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
- Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl
- aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
- the dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of the Group (c).
- the cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor are also very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
- the agents used according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
- the agents used according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors.
- Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components.
- the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
- agents used according to the invention as a pump spray, aerosol spray, but preferably as a pump foam or aerosol foam.
- the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) or a non-aerosol container.
- a dispensing device which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) or a non-aerosol container.
- the pressurized gas containers with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as “aerosol containers”.
- aerosol container a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system.
- agents used according to the invention are formulated as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray.
- the agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
- Propellants which are suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.
- said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent.
- the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.
- the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
- blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam.
- aerosol foam products preferably contain the blowing agent in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant.
- the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- the aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way.
- all constituents of the respective agent with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve.
- the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
- isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container.
- at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane.
- the blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.
- a further subject of the present application is a process for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the steps
- At least one copolymer A having at least one structural unit (A1), at least one structural unit (A2), at least one structural unit (A3) and at least one structural unit (A4),
- R1 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
- R2 is a hetero-functionalized alkyl radical other than R1;
- R3 independently of one another is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical other than R1 and R2
- copolymer A different from copolymer A having at least one structural unit (B1)
- R 4 is an optionally heterofunctionalized alkyl radical
- Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned preferred embodiments of the copolymers A and B and the delivery devices (vide supra).
- the agent in step ii) is applied to the keratin-containing fibers and the keratin-containing fibers are shaped. This form is fixed by the agent applied in step ii).
- Formulation E1 when applied to oxidatively colored keratinic fibers, resulted in improved color retention compared to formulation V1 after numerous hair washes.
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Abstract
Agents contenant, dans un véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable, a) au moins un copolymère A ayant au moins un motif constitutif (A1), au moins un motif constitutif (A2), au moins un motif constitutif (A3) et au moins un motif constitutif (A4), (A1) (A2) (A3) (A4), R1 désignant un reste alkyle éventuellement hétérofonctionnalisé, R2 désignant un reste alkyle éventuellement hétérofonctionnalisé, différent de R1, et R3 désignant indépendamment un reste alkyle éventuellement hétérofonctionnalisé, différent de R1 et R2 ; b) au moins un copolymère B, différent du copolymère A, ayant au moins un motif constitutif (B1), R4 désignant un reste alkyle éventuellement hétérofonctionnalisé. Ces agents améliorent la tenue de colorations oxydatives de fibres kératiniques.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE102012224051.9A DE102012224051A1 (de) | 2012-12-20 | 2012-12-20 | Verwendung eines Mittels für keratinhaltige Fasern, enthaltend mindestens eine spezielle Polymerkombination zur Verbesserung des Farberhalts oxidativer Haarcolorationen |
| PCT/EP2013/074433 WO2014095222A2 (fr) | 2012-12-20 | 2013-11-22 | Utilisation d'un agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins une association de polymeres speciale pour améliorer la tenue de colorations oxydatives de cheveux |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP2934675A2 true EP2934675A2 (fr) | 2015-10-28 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP13796033.2A Withdrawn EP2934675A2 (fr) | 2012-12-20 | 2013-11-22 | Utilisation d'un agent pour fibres kératiniques, contenant au moins une association de polymeres speciale pour améliorer la tenue de colorations oxydatives de cheveux |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US9283167B2 (fr) |
| EP (1) | EP2934675A2 (fr) |
| DE (1) | DE102012224051A1 (fr) |
| WO (1) | WO2014095222A2 (fr) |
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| US9833394B1 (en) * | 2016-05-12 | 2017-12-05 | L'oreal | Methods and compositions for improving the quality and durability of color in artificially colored hair |
| DE102016219846A1 (de) * | 2016-10-12 | 2018-04-12 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Wirkstoffmischungen für Stylingmittel |
| WO2018102495A2 (fr) * | 2016-11-30 | 2018-06-07 | Saudi Arabian Oil Company | Fluides de forage à émulsion inverse comprenant des modificateurs de rhéologie acides gras et diols gras |
| CN107049830A (zh) * | 2017-05-04 | 2017-08-18 | 上海章华保健化妆品有限公司 | 一种高稳定性护发素及其制备方法 |
| DE102019206914A1 (de) * | 2019-05-13 | 2020-11-19 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, einer farbgebenden Verbindung und eines filmbildenden Polymers II |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19736906A1 (de) | 1997-08-25 | 1999-03-04 | Henkel Kgaa | Verfahren zur Herstellung von sulfatierten Fettsäurealkylenglykolestern |
| DE19738866A1 (de) | 1997-09-05 | 1999-03-11 | Henkel Kgaa | Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern |
| FR2785183B1 (fr) | 1998-11-04 | 2002-04-05 | Oreal | COMPOSITION TINCTORIALE CONTENANT UN COLORANT DIRECT CATIONIQUE ET UNE PYRAZOLO-[1,5-a]- PYRIMIDINE A TITRE DE BASE D'OXYDATION, ET PROCEDES DE TEINTURE |
| FR2907668B1 (fr) | 2006-10-26 | 2012-08-17 | Oreal | Utilisation d'un compose a base de zinc pour proteger la couleur vis-a-vis du lavage de fibres keratiniques teintes artificiellement ; procedes de colorations |
| FR2907667B1 (fr) | 2006-10-26 | 2008-12-12 | Oreal | Procede pour proteger la couleur de fibres keratiniques teintes artificiellement vis-a-vis du lavage et de la lumiere ; procedes de coloration |
| BRPI0821464A2 (pt) * | 2007-12-31 | 2015-06-16 | Isp Investiments Inc | Método de proteção da cor cabelo tingido contra desbotamento ou remoção por lavagem |
| US20130315852A1 (en) * | 2010-12-01 | 2013-11-28 | Isp Investments Inc. | Durable styling compositions and the uses thereof |
| DE102010063575A1 (de) * | 2010-12-20 | 2012-06-21 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verwendung kationischer Copolymere zur Verbesserung der Echtheitseigenschaften gefärbter keratinischer Fasern |
| US20140234246A1 (en) * | 2011-10-20 | 2014-08-21 | Lynsey Joanne Coan | Hair styling composition |
| DE102011088845A1 (de) * | 2011-12-16 | 2013-06-20 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Mittel zur temporären Verformung keratinischer Fasern und Verfahren zur temporären Haarverformung |
-
2012
- 2012-12-20 DE DE102012224051.9A patent/DE102012224051A1/de not_active Withdrawn
-
2013
- 2013-11-22 WO PCT/EP2013/074433 patent/WO2014095222A2/fr not_active Ceased
- 2013-11-22 EP EP13796033.2A patent/EP2934675A2/fr not_active Withdrawn
-
2015
- 2015-06-18 US US14/742,826 patent/US9283167B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| See references of WO2014095222A3 * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| US20150283058A1 (en) | 2015-10-08 |
| WO2014095222A3 (fr) | 2014-12-18 |
| WO2014095222A2 (fr) | 2014-06-26 |
| US9283167B2 (en) | 2016-03-15 |
| DE102012224051A1 (de) | 2014-06-26 |
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