EP3068254B1 - Pierre précieuse ayant l'apparence d'une étoile - Google Patents

Pierre précieuse ayant l'apparence d'une étoile Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3068254B1
EP3068254B1 EP14809746.2A EP14809746A EP3068254B1 EP 3068254 B1 EP3068254 B1 EP 3068254B1 EP 14809746 A EP14809746 A EP 14809746A EP 3068254 B1 EP3068254 B1 EP 3068254B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gemstone
facets
girdle
group
crown
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP14809746.2A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3068254A2 (fr
Inventor
Christian Loinger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
D Swarovski KG
Original Assignee
D Swarovski KG
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Publication date
Application filed by D Swarovski KG filed Critical D Swarovski KG
Publication of EP3068254A2 publication Critical patent/EP3068254A2/fr
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Publication of EP3068254B1 publication Critical patent/EP3068254B1/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/007—Special types of gems

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a gemstone with a star-shaped appearance with the features of the preamble of claim 1 and an arrangement with such a gemstone.
  • a gemstone with a star-shaped appearance is described. From the state of the art gemstones cut to star shape are known. For this purpose, the material areas between the rays of the star must be removed from an example, 5-cornered basic shape of a stone. So it takes elaborate grinding technology to grind the often very small gems to the star shape. Furthermore, gems are known with so-called chaton. Such a gemstone is for example in the EP 2 505 096 A1 described.
  • a gemstone with a chaton section has a crown, also called upper part, with a defined number of lateral facets (crown facets) and a flat board, as well as a pavilion, also called lower part, with a defined number of facets (pavilion facets) on.
  • the opposite end of the chalkboard can be designed as a tip or as a rounded tip in the form of a so-called caliber.
  • Rondiste peripheral edge
  • the gemstone can be ground symmetrically or asymmetrically. Another important factor for the subject invention is the light yield.
  • the light yield is a measure of how much light that strikes the gemstone from a predefined, relatively wide solid angle range, in a relatively narrow (opening angle 3 °) directed solid angle range on the viewer substantially along the symmetry axis of the Stein falls back.
  • the light output is based on countless internal light reflections. These light reflections are caused by the individual facets, which stand in special angular relationships characterizing the respective cut.
  • To calculate the luminous efficacy refer to the EP 2 505 096 A1 directed.
  • the gemstone according to the EP 2 505 096 A1 has a particularly high light output.
  • contrast Luminous efficacy in the lighter areas minus light output in the darker areas / Luminous efficacy in the lighter areas.
  • the gemstone has a crown with a plurality of crown facets, and a first group of tapered to a Rondiste crown facets an angle ⁇ of 22.5 ° ⁇ 3 °, preferably 22.5 ° ⁇ 2 ° to the Rondistenebene has and a second group of crown facets, which adjoin with their broad side on the Rondiste, an angle ⁇ of 34 ° ⁇ 3 °, preferably 34 ° ⁇ 2 ° to the Rondistenebene, resulting solely by the so-achieved course of light intensity a star-shaped appearance of the gem without the removal of material required by the prior art.
  • the gemstone has a pavilion with a plurality of pavilion facets, wherein a first group of facet pavilion facets tapering towards a rondist makes an angle of 43.5 ° ⁇ 3 °, preferably 43 ° , 5 ° ⁇ 2 ° to the rondistine plane and a second group of Pavilion facets with their broadside adjacent to the rondis, an angle of 50 ° ⁇ 3 °, preferably 50 ° ⁇ 2 ° to the Rondistenebene has.
  • the gemstone has a pentagonal outline in plan view.
  • the gemstone consists of a transparent to the visible spectrum of the light material and has a refractive index of 2.0 to 2.4.
  • the gem consists of cubic zirconia ("cubic zirconia").
  • the contrast of the luminous efficacy between the first group of facets tapering towards the rim strip and the second group of facets tapering toward the middle is determined in each case at a radially outwardly measured from the longitudinal axis of the gemstone Position of two-thirds of the radius of a circumference surrounding the outline of the gem in the respective bisector of each facet is at least 50%.
  • a socket is provided for the gem, then it is preferably provided that the claws of the socket, which serve to fix the gemstone, are arranged in the region of that group of facets which adjoin the rondis with their broad side. Due to the inventive design of the facets of the gemstone in the area of those facets appears darker, with its broad side adjacent to the Rondiste. By covering the darker appearing areas of the gem the star-shaped impression is enhanced.
  • Fig. 1a shows an embodiment of a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a side view.
  • the Rondiste is the area between the crown and pavilion, where the stone has its largest cross-sectional dimension.
  • Schematically, the Rondistenebene E is shown, that is the plane whose normal vector is parallel to the longitudinal axis L of the stone and in which the gemstone has its largest cross-sectional dimension.
  • Fig. 1b shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a further side view.
  • Fig. 1c shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a plan view of the crown 2. It can be seen two types of crown facets 6, 7. It border five Kronenfacetten 6 with its tip to the Rondiste. Another five crown facets 7 border with a broadside on the Rondiste 4.
  • Fig. 1d shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a further side view.
  • Fig. 1e shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in plan view of the pavilion 3.
  • the pavilion 3 has two types of pavilion facets 8, 9.
  • the pavilion facets of group 8 are bounded by their lace to the rondist.
  • Further pavilion facets of group 9 border with a broadside on the Rondiste 4. For the sake of clarity was omitted to provide all facets with reference numerals.
  • Fig. 1f shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a perspective view of the crown. 2
  • Fig. 1g shows a gemstone 1 according to the invention in a further side view.
  • Fig. 2a shows an arrangement of a gemstone according to the invention 1 and a socket 10 and 11 Krappe in cross section.
  • the Fig. 2b shows an arrangement of a gemstone 1 and a socket 10 according to the invention in plan view.
  • the frame is designed so that the prongs 11 cover the darker areas of the gemstone 1 and so underline the impression of a star. For the sake of clarity, only 2 of the prongs are provided with reference numerals.
  • Fig. 3 shows a schematic representation of a gemstone 1 according to the invention for defining the angular position of the facets to the Rondistenebene E.
  • the angle of a facet to the Rondistenebene is thus measured between the projecting appearing facet and the Rondistenebene.
  • the angles present in the figure do not have to correspond to the values according to the invention.
  • Fig. 4 shows the course of the light output ("Light Return") along an imaginary section AB through a gem, which is designed for comparison as a conventional gemstone or as inventive gemstone 1.
  • the solid curve shows the course of the luminous efficacy for a conventionally cut gemstone, while the dashed curve represents the course of the luminous efficacy of a gemstone 1 according to the invention.
  • the amount of luminous efficacy in the edge regions is substantially smaller than in the case of a conventionally ground gemstone.
  • the contrast between the luminous efficacy in the region of one of the rays of the star and in the region between two rays of the star is greater than in the prior art. This results in the gemstone 1 of the invention the visual impression of a star.
  • Fig. 5 shows the position L 'of the measuring line AB for the diagram of the luminous efficacy ("Light Return") in Fig. 4 ,
  • the measurement line is approximately half the height of the triangle CDE, where the height between C and the base DE is meant.
  • Fig. 6 shows the course of the light output ("Light Return") along an imaginary section EF along a circle through a gem, which is designed for comparison as a conventional gemstone or as inventive gemstone 1.
  • the solid curve shows the course of the luminous efficacy for a conventionally cut gemstone, while the dashed curve represents the course of the luminous efficacy of a gemstone 1 according to the invention.
  • the amount of light output in the regions of the facets tapering towards the center is substantially lower than in the regions of the facets tapering towards the rim 4.
  • the luminous efficiency varies azimuthally periodically, whereby the visual impression of a star is formed.
  • the luminous efficacy along the imaginary section EF does not show any pronounced periodic changes, so that no such impression is created in the prior art gemstone.
  • Fig. 7 shows the position L "of the measuring line EF along a circle for the diagram of the light yield (" Light Return ”) Fig. 6 ,
  • the measuring line EF lies on a center circle with respect to the center axis on a measured from the inside outward position of about two-thirds of the radius of a circumference of the gemstone (1) surrounding the circumference.
  • Fig. 8 is a diagram illustrating the light rays emerging from a gemstone for the diagram of the light yield in FIGS. 4 and 6 ,
  • Fig. 9a shows a photographic representation of a gemstone according to the invention 1. Clearly, the darker areas between the symmetry axes can be seen. This results in the gemstone 1 of the invention, the visual impression of a star.
  • Fig. 9b shows a photographic representation of a gem stone according to the prior art, in which no visual impression of a star is created.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Crystals, And After-Treatments Of Crystals (AREA)
  • Low-Molecular Organic Synthesis Reactions Using Catalysts (AREA)

Claims (8)

  1. Pierre précieuse ayant l'apparence d'une étoile, ladite pierre précieuse (1) présentant une couronne (2) comportant une pluralité de facettes de couronne, caractérisée en ce qu'un premier groupe (6) de facettes de couronne se rétrécissant en direction d'un rondiste (4) présente un angle (α) de 22,5° ± 3°, de préférence 22,5° ± 2° par rapport au niveau du rondiste (E) et un second groupe (7) de facettes de couronne jouxtant le rondiste (4) avec leur bordée présente un angle (β) de 34° ± 3°, de préférence 34° ± 2° par rapport au niveau du rondiste (E).
  2. Pierre précieuse selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la pierre précieuse (1) présente un pavillon (3) comportant une pluralité de facettes de pavillon, dans laquelle un premier groupe (8) de de facettes de pavillon se rétrécissant en direction d'un rondiste (4) présente un angle (γ) de 43,5° ± 3°, de préférence 43,5° ± 2° par rapport au niveau du rondiste (E) et un second groupe (9) de facettes de pavillon jouxtant le rondiste avec une bordée présente un angle (δ) de 50° ± 3°, de préférence 50° ± 2° par rapport au niveau du rondiste (E).
  3. Pierre précieuse selon au moins une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la pierre précieuse (1) présente une silhouette pentagonale en vue de dessus.
  4. Pierre précieuse selon au moins une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la pierre précieuse (1) est constituée d'une matière transparente pour le spectre visible de la lumière et présente un indice de réfraction de 2,0 à 2,4.
  5. Pierre précieuse selon au moins une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la pierre précieuse (1) est constituée de zircone cubique (« cubic zirconia »).
  6. Pierre précieuse selon au moins une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le contraste de l'efficacité lumineuse de rayonnement entre le premier groupe (6) de facettes se rétrécissant en direction du rondiste (4) et le second groupe (7) de facettes se rétrécissant en direction du milieu, déterminé respectivement sur une position, mesurée vers l'extérieur radialement par rapport à l'axe longitudinal de la pierre précieuse (1), de deux tiers du rayon d'un pourtour entourant la silhouette de la pierre précieuse (1) dans la bissectrice respective de la facette respective, vaut au moins 50 %, de préférence au moins 70 %, de manière particulièrement préférée au moins 80 %.
  7. Disposition comportant :
    - une pierre précieuse selon au moins une des revendications précédentes,
    - une sertissure, dont des griffes de sertissure débordent sur la périphérie de la pierre précieuse,
    caractérisée en ce que les griffes (11) sont disposées ainsi formées et de préférence au niveau du second groupe (7) de facettes de couronne, en ce que la surface visible de la pierre précieuse (1) soit délimitée par un contour alternativement convexe et concave.
  8. Disposition selon la revendication 7,
    caractérisée en ce que la surface visible de la pierre précieuse (1) forme la surface d'une étoile à cinq branches.
EP14809746.2A 2013-11-15 2014-10-27 Pierre précieuse ayant l'apparence d'une étoile Active EP3068254B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ATA888/2013A AT515136B1 (de) 2013-11-15 2013-11-15 Schmuckstein mit sternförmigem Erscheinungsbild
PCT/AT2014/000192 WO2015070266A2 (fr) 2013-11-15 2014-10-27 Pierre précieuse ayant l'apparence d'une étoile

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3068254A2 EP3068254A2 (fr) 2016-09-21
EP3068254B1 true EP3068254B1 (fr) 2018-05-23

Family

ID=52020871

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP14809746.2A Active EP3068254B1 (fr) 2013-11-15 2014-10-27 Pierre précieuse ayant l'apparence d'une étoile

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20160249714A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3068254B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN105744852B (fr)
AT (1) AT515136B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2015070266A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108497638B (zh) * 2017-02-27 2023-12-05 深圳鸳鸯金楼珠宝股份有限公司 钻石及其亭部加工方法、钻石及其亭部结构
EP3378346B1 (fr) * 2017-03-21 2023-01-18 Omega SA Pierre et son procédé de réalisation
TWD195924S (zh) * 2017-09-21 2019-02-11 日商貞松股份有限公司 寶石

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US3788097A (en) * 1971-03-30 1974-01-29 Colorant Schmuckstein Gmbh Fa Brilliant having plural rings of facets, each having an odd number of facets
US5072549A (en) * 1986-09-22 1991-12-17 Harold Johnston Method of cutting gemstones and product
USD375914S (en) * 1994-07-05 1996-11-26 Fancoldi, R.T. Diamond
DE19734036A1 (de) * 1997-08-06 1999-02-11 Helmut Buerger Verfahren zur Festlegung eines Edelsteinschliffs mit hoher Reflektion, Verfahren zum Schleifen eines Edelsteins mit hoher Reflektion sowie geschliffener Edelstein mit hoher Reflektion
USD411133S (en) * 1998-09-01 1999-06-22 Noe Alvarado Hexagon shaped diamond
US6430963B1 (en) * 2000-08-30 2002-08-13 Simka Diamonds Corporation Diamond cut
IL146079A (en) * 2001-10-19 2004-06-20 Michael Kedem Rounded precious stone
US6578380B1 (en) * 2002-01-24 2003-06-17 Diaco Hexagonal brilliant cut diamond
USD481327S1 (en) * 2002-06-04 2003-10-28 Nelson Jewellery Arts Company Ltd. Pentagonal cutting diamond
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN105744852A (zh) 2016-07-06
EP3068254A2 (fr) 2016-09-21
US20160249714A1 (en) 2016-09-01
AT515136A1 (de) 2015-06-15
WO2015070266A3 (fr) 2015-07-30
WO2015070266A2 (fr) 2015-05-21
AT515136B1 (de) 2016-12-15
CN105744852B (zh) 2018-10-26

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