EP3242570A1 - Système de sertissage pour un article d'horlogerie ou de joaillerie - Google Patents
Système de sertissage pour un article d'horlogerie ou de joaillerieInfo
- Publication number
- EP3242570A1 EP3242570A1 EP16700853.1A EP16700853A EP3242570A1 EP 3242570 A1 EP3242570 A1 EP 3242570A1 EP 16700853 A EP16700853 A EP 16700853A EP 3242570 A1 EP3242570 A1 EP 3242570A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- crimping
- support
- spring
- article
- crimping system
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
- A44C17/0275—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations in an oscillating way
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G04—HOROLOGY
- G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
- G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
- G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
- G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a crimping system for a timepiece or jewelry in which a gemstone is mounted to give a visual effect of vibration of the stone.
- the present invention also relates to a watch face and a timepiece or jewelery including such a crimping system.
- crimping systems allow to mount one or more precious stones to a support.
- a support When the stone is fixedly mounted on the support, it is difficult to see the light reflected through the different facets of the stone since the movements of the stone are very small. Such an arrangement is therefore not optimal when looking for a certain animation effect.
- crimping systems include spring elements or optical means to produce an animation effect.
- a jewelery article comprises diamonds being illuminated with the aid of an illumination source.
- the controller controls the illumination source so as to vary the intensity of the light emitted by the source, thus making it possible to better highlight the optical effects of the diamond.
- the controller controls the illumination source so as to vary the intensity of the light emitted by the source, thus making it possible to better highlight the optical effects of the diamond.
- it is often undesirable to use electronic devices in timepieces or high-end jewelry.
- EP2510824 discloses a jewelery article
- the utility model RU 100367U describes a jewelery article comprising a precious stone fixed in a washer-shaped kitten, this set of stone-kitten is linked to a base of the article by a cylindrical spring. The vibration of the stone mounted on the spring causes a refraction effect of the light. Fixing the ends of the spring to the kitten and the base is however complicated and delicate.
- Patent application WO2012 / 1 15458 describes a jewelery article comprising a ring-shaped support having a hollow sector in which a kitten is mounted by means of a spiral or conical spring.
- the ends of the spring are fixed in grooves in the support and in the kitten respectively, and the kitten is oscillated under the effect of external excitations on the support.
- a pin is mounted through the upper part of the kitten, each end of the pin being housed in the support in a plane parallel to the plane of the spring (the spring being attached to a lower part of the kitten) .
- the pin is used to prevent the separation of the kitten and the support in case of major shocks.
- the lower part of the kitten can only vibrate in a direction perpendicular to the pin in the plane of the spring, and the upper part of the kitten remains effectively secured to the support 1.
- a crimping system comprising: a crimping support; a gemstone mounted in or on the crimping support; an elastic member attached to the crimping support so as to flexibly connect the crimping support to said article; the elastic member having a stiffness of between 1.2x10 5 N / m and 1.4x10 +1 N / m; and the combined weight of the crimping support and the gemstone is between 3x10 4 g and 4x10 1 g, so that the crimping support can be oscillated and maintained by movements of the wearer of the article; and, when in oscillation, the crimping support oscillates in axial and / or radial movement with respect to an axis of symmetry with an oscillation frequency between 1 Hz and 30 Hz.
- the present invention also relates to a dial of a timepiece and a timepiece or jewelery comprising said crimping system and a method of manufacturing the elastic element of the crimping system.
- the crimping system, and the assembly comprising a plurality of crimping systems can be advantageously included in an article such as a jewel or a timepiece, so as to produce a visual effect by the oscillation of the crimping system (s) following external stimulation (movement of the wearer) of the article.
- FIG. 1 illustrates a crimping system comprising a crimping support, a stone and an elastic element, according to one embodiment
- Figure 2 shows the crimping system seen stone side, oscillating in a radial movement
- Figure 3 illustrates a crimping system, according to another embodiment
- Figure 4 shows a crimping system, still according to another embodiment
- Figure 5 illustrates a method of manufacturing a helical spring, according to one embodiment
- Figure 6 shows a helical spring manufactured by cutting into a tube
- FIG. 7 shows calculated values of the stiffness of a helical spring as a function of the mass of the crimping support and the stone, giving rise to frequencies of between 1 Hz and 30 Hz;
- Figure 8 shows the crimping system according to another embodiment.
- a crimping system 1 for a timepiece 6 or jewelery is illustrated in Figure 1, according to one embodiment.
- the crimping system 1 comprises a crimping support 3, or kitten, in which is mounted a gemstone 2, such as a diamond, ruby, sapphire or emerald.
- a gemstone means at least one gemstone 2, the support 3 being able to support a plurality of precious stones 2.
- the expression “gemstone” can also include any type of stone, such as fine stones.
- An elastic member 5 attached to the crimping holder 3 flexibly connects the crimping holder 3 to the article 6. The elastic member 5 extends
- the stone 2 can oscillate or vibrate on the elastic element 5 following a movement of the article 6 (in other words, so that the crimping support, and therefore the stone, can oscillate or vibrate on the elastic member 5 following a movement of the article 6).
- the crimping support and therefore the stone, can oscillate or vibrate on the elastic member 5 following a movement of the article 6.
- the end 17 of the elastic element 5 fixed on the article 6 remains fixed, while the rest of the elastic element 5 is deformed elastically under the effect of the acceleration of the mass of the stone 2 and the crimping support 3.
- the stiffness of the elastic element 5, the mass of the stone 2 and the crimping support 3, as well as the intensity of the shock are the main ones Factors defining the frequency of the vibrations (or oscillations) of the stone 2.
- the oscillation of the stone 2 is in a radial movement with respect to an axis of symmetry 15 and an axial movement with respect to this same axis 15.
- the crimping system 1 As the crimping system 1 is intended for a timepiece 6 or jewelery, it must be arranged to create an animation, for example on a watch dial, on the basis of a vibration of the stone . In other words, the crimping system 1 must be configured so that the vibration of the stone is visible. The vibration must also be sustainable in time and in its environment of use. On the other hand, so as to accommodate the crimping system 1, for example, between the dial and the ice of the watch, on a bezel, a jewel, its size must be minimal and the dimensions of the crimping system 1 must be reduced. This difficulty is exacerbated when a large number of stones are set high density on the support.
- the oscillation frequency thereof must be adapted to the retinal persistence. Below about 30 cycles per second, see 25 cycles per second, the human perceives the cycles. We can say that a vibration whose frequency is lower than 30 Hz is visible to the human eye. The range of motion must also be large enough to be perceived.
- the decay of the amplitude of the oscillations over time that is to say the damping, must be at least greater than one period of the oscillation, and in practice comprise several periods, so that that a real impression of vibration is perceived by the human eye.
- the vibration is maintained.
- the stiffness is the characteristic that indicates the resistance to the elastic deformation of a body.
- the vibration frequencies F of the crimping system 1 are defined by the inertia of the mass M of the crimping support assembly 3 and the stone 2, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5:
- the ratio of the stiffness K to the mass M determines the vibration frequencies according to the possible directions of movement (degrees of freedom) of the crimping system 1, and therefore the frequency oscillation of the crimping system 1 which must be less than 30 Hz, see 25 Hz.
- the vibration of the crimping system 1 is determined by the amplitude and frequency according to certain modes of vibration. Are the amplitude and frequency of vibration defined by the materials composing the system and the geometry of the elements.
- the crimping system 1 must also be configured so that the vibration can be initiated by natural movements of the wearer of the timepiece 6 or jewelery.
- the vibration of the crimping system 1 should also be maintained over time by these same natural movements of the wearer.
- the stiffness is proportional to the product of the area A of the beam and Young's modulus E on the length L of the elastic element: and the frequency F can be expressed as:
- the equation (3) allows to determine the minimum and maximum stiffness values K for the elastic element 5 to vibrate the crimping support 3 with the stone 2 in the frequency range between 1 Hz and 30Hz .
- FIG. 7 shows calculated values of the stiffness K as a function of the mass M of the set of crimping support 3 and stone 2 giving rise to vibration frequencies perceived by the human eye, i.e. say between 1 Hz and 30Hz.
- Table 1 reports spring sizing values allowing a mass to vibrate in perceptible frequencies (1 Hz to 30 Hz).
- Mass g
- Height / Material / Section Length Frequency Diameter Stiffness Spring mm
- mm 2 mm
- Hz mm
- GPa GPa
- the elastic element 5 has a stiffness K between 1.2x10 5 N / m and 1.4x10 +1 N / m and the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 3x10 4 g and 4x10 1 g (see Figure 7).
- the crimping support 3 can oscillate according to an axial and / or radial movement, following a movement of the article 6, with an oscillation frequency of between 1 Hz and 30 Hz with respect to the axis of rotation. symmetry 15. According to a form
- the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 3 g and 1x10 1 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is between 3.9x10 5 N / m and 3.6 N / m.
- the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 2 g and 5x10 2 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is between 3.9x10 4 N. / m and 1.8 N / m.
- the crimping support 3 can oscillate according to an axial and / or radial movement, following a movement of the article 6, with an oscillation frequency of between 10 Hz and 20 Hz relative to the axis of symmetry 15, the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 2 g and 5x10 2 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is between 3.9 x10 2 N / m and 7.9x10 1 N / m.
- the frequency and amplitude of the oscillation movement following an impact under Article 6 may be limited by a combination of the stiffness of the elastic element 5 and the combined mass of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2.
- the elastic member comprises a spring 5 development helical (subsequently "coil spring”).
- a spring 5 comprising helically wound turns 10 makes it possible to obtain an elastic element having both a maximum length and a minimum space requirement.
- the elastic element comprises a helical spring 5 of cylindrical section.
- the crimping support 3 comprises a peg 30, integral with the crimping support 3 and being housed, at least in part, in a first end 13 of the spring 5, so as to fix the peg 30 to the elastic element 5 by Tightening.
- the second end 17 of the spring 5 is fixed in Article 6 by at least one of the methods comprising clamping, driving, clipping or welding, or any other suitable method.
- a helical spring oscillates
- the coil spring also allows a mode of oscillation in pumping, that is to say an oscillation in axial movement, illustrated by the arrow numbered 152 in Figure 1. This mode of oscillation however tends to be negligible compared to the oscillation according to the radial movement.
- the amplitude of the axial movement of the spring 5 towards the article 6 is limited by the compression of the turns 10 of the spring 5.
- Figure 2 shows the crimping system 1 seen from above (stone side 2) and the oscillation according to the radial movement 151 which describes an ellipse.
- the radial movement promotes a flickering effect of the stone 2.
- the crimping support 3 may comprise a frontal portion 9 of frustoconical shape and serving as a seat for the cylinder head 8 of the stone 2.
- the inclination of the profile 7 of the front portion 9 can be arranged so as to maintain the yoke 8.
- the support 3 may also comprise a bore 16 coaxial with the support 3.
- the second end 17 of the spring 5 is fixed to the article 6 by means of a pin 14.
- the pin 14 is fixed, for example by driving or screwing in the article 6 and the second end 17 of the spring 5 is fixed, for example by clamping, on the pin 14.
- the distal end of the bar 18 passes through a hole in the pin 14 and is fixed to the support 6 by an appropriate method, such as driving, clamping or clipping.
- Figure 3 shows a crimping system 1 as that of Figure 1, wherein the first end 13 of the coil spring 5 of cylindrical section comprises an axial groove 12 which acts as a slit of elasticity, allowing to absorb radially by elastic deformation and / or plastic at least a portion of the force of driving the pin 30 on the spring 5.
- an axial groove 12 may also be provided at the second end 17 of the spring 5, for example for facilitate the driving, when the spring 5 is driven into the pin 14.
- the coil spring 5 may also be of conical section. Such a crimping system with a helical spring 5 of conical section is shown in FIG.
- the coil spring 5 is manufactured by a helical laser cut a tube 501.
- the cut can be achieved by rotating the tube 501 about its axis of symmetry 503 and simultaneously by advancing the tube 501, so that a fixed laser beam 502 can cut the helical shape of the turns 10.
- a tube 501 whose helical cut has been partially performed.
- the tube 501 can be mounted on a bar 504.
- the tube 501 to be cut is fixed and the laser is movable.
- the laser is femtosecond laser type, which is suitable for machining small objects.
- the rotational speed of the tube 501 is determined from the diameter d of the tube 501 to correspond to a sublimation rate of the material of the tube 501 conditioned by the properties of the laser beam and the material of the tube 501.
- the advance of the tube 501 that is to say its speed of displacement along the axis of symmetry 503, is then determined so that the displacement of the tube, along the axis of symmetry 503 and for a time corresponding to a complete revolution of the tube 501, with the speed of rotation determined above, corresponds to the desired turn thickness 10 for the spring 5 to be produced.
- This determination is valid for a sublimation diameter generated by the laser, or for a certain energy level (or power and pulsation) of the laser.
- the advance of the tube 501 and its rotation thus define the pitch and the height of the turns 10 of the spring 5 thus manufactured.
- the thickness of the turns 10 is defined by the thickness of the wall of the tube 501.
- the section of the turns 10 is rectangular.
- the axial groove 12 may be cut during the process described above.
- the cut is initiated at one end of the tube 510 by the formation of the axial groove 12, for example at the first end 13, and is continued by the cutting of the turns 10.
- the cut is completed at the other end of the tube 510 by the formation of another axial groove 12, for example at the second end 17.
- Figure 6 shows a helical spring 5 made by cutting in a tube. A detail of the turns 10 is also shown.
- the stiffness of the spring 5 depends on the material in which the spring 5 is made; the length of the spring 5, defined by the diameter of the helicoid, the pitch, and the height H; and the section of the turns 10 which is determined by the thickness e of the wall of the tube 501 and by the height h of the turns 10.
- the height of the turns 10 is defined by the pitch and the space between the turns 10 (c that is, the amount of material cut between two turns).
- the shape of the coil spring 5 having a small footprint promotes a dense implantation of the crimping system 1 on an article 6 (jewelry, watch dial, etc.) because the diameter D of the spring 5 may be smaller than the dimensions of the support 3 and the stone 2.
- a plurality of crimping systems 1 can be arranged on the article 6 so that the stones 2 are brought closer to each other.
- the diameter D of the spring 5 can be determined by the fixing means 14.
- the size of the crimping system 1 can be decreased by maximizing the mass of the crimping support 3 which reduces the size of the support 3.
- the crimping support 3 can be made of a material having a high density, such as gold or a gold alloy.
- the size of the crimping system 1 can also be minimized by a turn section 10 as small as possible.
- the thickness of the tube, and therefore of the turns 10 is preferably greater than 20 ⁇ and still preferably greater than 40 ⁇ .
- the height h of the turns 10 makes it possible to adjust the stiffness K of the spring 5 so as to obtain an aesthetic vibration frequency, that is to say a frequency of oscillation between 1 Hz and 30 Hz, depending on the mass of the system. It should be noted here that other parameters of the spring 5, such as the component material, can be adjusted to obtain different frequencies.
- the choice of adjusting the height h of the turns rests on practical reasons, such as the adjustment of the laser.
- the pitch is as small as possible so as to have a length L of the large elastic element 5 and thus reduce the height H of the spring 5.
- the height h of turn can be as small as possible so that the length L of the elastic element 5 must no longer be maximum.
- the stiffness K of 5, in its axial direction promotes the crushing of a turn 10 on the other and thus of the decrease in the space between the turns 10. It is not desirable, however, that the turns 10 touch each other when vibration to minimize the damping of the vibration.
- the length L of the spring element 5 and the height of the turns 10 are therefore preferably between a maximum length L and a minimum turn height h. These dimensions will minimize the vibration of the spring in an axial movement.
- the elastic member comprises a flat spring 50 extending radially from the crimping support 3.
- This flat spring can be manufactured by the method described above. for example by cutting into a plate.
- the flat spring 50 is mounted on a first rigid support member 22 extending radially and attachable to the article 6 and having a first opening 220.
- the flat spring 50 allows the crimping support 3, and so to stone 2, to swing or vibrate
- the crimping system 1 comprises a second support member 24 extending radially above the first support member 22.
- the second support member 24 has a second opening 240 concentric with the first opening 220.
- the radial oscillation amplitude of the stone 2 is limited by the crimping support 3 abutting against the side wall 241 of the opening 240.
- crimping support 3 may also comprise an ankle 30 extending distally in the first support member 22.
- the radial movement of the stone 2 is limited by the pin 30 of the crimping support 3 abutting against a wall 221 of the first opening 220, thus limiting the radial movement of the stone 2.
Landscapes
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Adornments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CH00019/15A CH710598A1 (fr) | 2015-01-07 | 2015-01-07 | Système de sertissage pour un article d'horlogerie ou de joaillerie |
| PCT/IB2016/050020 WO2016110791A1 (fr) | 2015-01-07 | 2016-01-04 | Système de sertissage pour un article d'horlogerie ou de joaillerie |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP3242570A1 true EP3242570A1 (fr) | 2017-11-15 |
| EP3242570B1 EP3242570B1 (fr) | 2018-11-28 |
Family
ID=52338762
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP16700853.1A Active EP3242570B1 (fr) | 2015-01-07 | 2016-01-04 | Système de sertissage pour un article d'horlogerie ou de joaillerie |
Country Status (5)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US10750832B2 (fr) |
| EP (1) | EP3242570B1 (fr) |
| CN (1) | CN107427110B (fr) |
| CH (1) | CH710598A1 (fr) |
| WO (1) | WO2016110791A1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107928031A (zh) * | 2017-11-13 | 2018-04-20 | 武汉地质资源环境工业技术研究院有限公司 | 一种能多角度展示镶嵌品的戒托 |
| WO2020149518A1 (fr) * | 2019-01-14 | 2020-07-23 | 주식회사 에이아이인사이트 | Système d'architecture d'apprentissage profond pour lecture d'image de fond d'œil automatique et procédé de lecture d'image de fond d'œil automatique faisant appel à un système d'architecture d'apprentissage profond |
| EP4012511B1 (fr) * | 2020-12-11 | 2023-08-23 | Montres Breguet S.A. | Procede d'accordage harmonique d'au moins un timbre d'un mecanisme de sonnerie d'une montre |
Family Cites Families (25)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US680873A (en) * | 1901-06-01 | 1901-08-20 | Ora E Case | Hat-pin. |
| US770880A (en) * | 1904-02-11 | 1904-09-27 | Max L Weiss | Jewelry. |
| US1394670A (en) * | 1921-02-25 | 1921-10-25 | Costa Arthur V Da | Swinging figure toy |
| GB277948A (en) * | 1926-09-23 | 1928-01-26 | Julius Geiger Gmbh | Improvements in and relating to electrically actuated polishing apparatus |
| GB651734A (en) * | 1947-02-03 | 1951-04-11 | Jaroslav Eder | Jewelry incorporating natural or artificial stones |
| US2586787A (en) * | 1948-07-28 | 1952-02-26 | Conto James | Earring construction |
| US5530970A (en) * | 1993-07-30 | 1996-07-02 | Knutson; Kirby J. | Coil spring display device |
| PT983007E (pt) * | 1997-07-22 | 2001-12-28 | Sonia Di Maria | Elementode suporte na forma de uma mola de tensao helicoidal a cabelo ou material em folha |
| AU1047599A (en) | 1997-11-12 | 1999-05-31 | Scintillate Limited | Improvements relating to jewellery illumination |
| US6047709A (en) * | 1999-05-05 | 2000-04-11 | Tu; Yuan Ming | Replaceable hair decorative members |
| US6003521A (en) * | 1999-07-30 | 1999-12-21 | Huang; Chao-Hsiung | Hair fastener |
| USD475319S1 (en) * | 2000-06-05 | 2003-06-03 | Hairdiamond, Inc. | Setting for gemstone or other type of jewelry |
| USD487032S1 (en) * | 2000-06-05 | 2004-02-24 | Hairdiamond, Inc. | Setting for gemstone or other type of jewelry |
| USD550549S1 (en) * | 2005-01-31 | 2007-09-11 | Mounce Danny A | Hatclip |
| JP2010046218A (ja) * | 2008-08-20 | 2010-03-04 | Inose Hoseki Kk | 揺動装身具 |
| RU100367U1 (ru) * | 2010-07-13 | 2010-12-20 | Общество с ограниченной ответственностью "ЭПЛ Ювелир" | Ювелирное изделие с драгоценными и полудрагоценными камнями |
| US20120151963A1 (en) * | 2010-12-20 | 2012-06-21 | Hidetaka Dobashi | Personal ornament |
| KR101254175B1 (ko) * | 2011-02-25 | 2013-04-18 | 김창현 | 유동성 난집을 구비한 보석 난집 조립체 |
| CH704787A1 (de) * | 2011-04-15 | 2012-10-15 | Walter Weinbeck | Fassung für einen Schmuckstein. |
| EP2734668B1 (fr) * | 2011-07-19 | 2016-03-23 | Koninklijke Philips N.V. | Appareil ménager comprenant un actionneur |
| CN202385032U (zh) * | 2011-12-27 | 2012-08-15 | 东南大学 | 一种基频共振频率可调的悬臂型压电发电机 |
| US20130239613A1 (en) * | 2012-03-15 | 2013-09-19 | The Jewlery Co. | Jewelry article with a brilliance enhancing diamond setting |
| CN103358029A (zh) * | 2012-03-31 | 2013-10-23 | 武汉高智创新科技有限公司 | 连体弹性多圈活塞环的加工方法 |
| CN103691668B (zh) * | 2013-11-26 | 2015-08-19 | 中国矿业大学 | 一种振动筛固有频率调节方法及装置 |
| EP2901883A1 (fr) * | 2014-01-31 | 2015-08-05 | Cartier Création Studio S.A. | Pierre montée sur un élément ressort |
-
2015
- 2015-01-07 CH CH00019/15A patent/CH710598A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
-
2016
- 2016-01-04 US US15/541,517 patent/US10750832B2/en active Active
- 2016-01-04 CN CN201680014099.8A patent/CN107427110B/zh active Active
- 2016-01-04 EP EP16700853.1A patent/EP3242570B1/fr active Active
- 2016-01-04 WO PCT/IB2016/050020 patent/WO2016110791A1/fr not_active Ceased
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| EP3242570B1 (fr) | 2018-11-28 |
| CN107427110B (zh) | 2019-05-10 |
| US10750832B2 (en) | 2020-08-25 |
| CH710598A1 (fr) | 2016-07-15 |
| US20180014612A1 (en) | 2018-01-18 |
| WO2016110791A1 (fr) | 2016-07-14 |
| CN107427110A (zh) | 2017-12-01 |
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