EP3328236B2 - Procédé de traitement de fibres capillaires - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement de fibres capillaires Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3328236B2
EP3328236B2 EP16744408.2A EP16744408A EP3328236B2 EP 3328236 B2 EP3328236 B2 EP 3328236B2 EP 16744408 A EP16744408 A EP 16744408A EP 3328236 B2 EP3328236 B2 EP 3328236B2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
less
carried out
process according
equal
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EP16744408.2A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3328236B1 (fr
EP3328236A1 (fr
Inventor
Régis FEREYRE
Stefania Nuzzo
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to EP21165765.5A priority Critical patent/EP3864995A1/fr
Publication of EP3328236A1 publication Critical patent/EP3328236A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3328236B1 publication Critical patent/EP3328236B1/fr
Publication of EP3328236B2 publication Critical patent/EP3328236B2/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
    • A45D1/02—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with means for internal heating, e.g. by liquid fuel
    • A45D1/04—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with means for internal heating, e.g. by liquid fuel by electricity
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/16—Surface treatment of hair by steam, oil, or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D24/00—Hair combs for care of the hair; Accessories therefor
    • A45D24/22—Combs with dispensing devices for liquids, pastes or powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/02—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair thermal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
    • A45D2001/008—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with vapor generation, e.g. steam

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating hair fibres.
  • a device which makes it possible to apply a cosmetic product to the hair, to expose the latter to steam, to subject said hair to heat treatment and to comb it is known from international application WO 2014/064660 .
  • the comb is placed downstream of the member for applying the cosmetic product and the combing step is therefore carried out after the product application step.
  • the invention aims to meet this need, which is met by providing according to a first aspect a process for treating hair fibres according to claim 1.
  • this makes the treatment of the hair fibres easier by facilitating the movement of the tool(s) carrying out the process along the hair fibres, in particular by decreasing the force which the user must exert in order to deposit a predetermined amount of product.
  • hair fibres denotes human keratin fibres such as the hair or synthetic fibres known as "extensions" which are added to an individual's head of hair by various means, in particular by adhesive bonding, this being in order for example to modify the appearance of an individual's natural head of hair.
  • All the steps of the process are carried out using a single tool, in particular using a device for shaping the head of hair configured to carry out the various steps successively in the same portion of hair fibres.
  • the steps of the process are carried out by moving the tool(s) along a lock of hair fibres.
  • the process of the invention makes it possible to improve the smoothing of the hair, in particular to decrease the hair volume.
  • steps (i) and (ii) are carried out, for example, during the same session at the hairdresser, with a period between them of less than or equal to 5 min, better still less than or equal to 1 min, even better still less than or equal to 30 s, preferentially less than or equal to 15 s, and more preferentially less than or equal to 5 s.
  • all the successive steps are carried out with a period between them of less than or equal to 5 min, better still less than or equal to 1 min, even better still less than or equal to 30 s, preferentially less than or equal to 15 s.
  • the process comprises a single combing step.
  • the fact that there is only one combing step makes it possible to simplify the process without the efficiency of the treatment being affected thereby.
  • Step (iv) is carried out after step (ii), in particular less than 5 min, better still less than 1 min, after step (ii), even better still less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 s, after step (ii).
  • Step (iii) is carried out after step (ii) and before step (iv), in particular less than 5 min, better still less than 1 min, even better still less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 s, before step (iii) and after step (ii).
  • the heat treatment can be carried out by contact of the hair fibres with hot surfaces, in particular hot surfaces applying to the hair a tension that makes it possible for example to smooth, style or disentangle the hair fibres.
  • the heat treatment can be carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 90°C, preferably greater than or equal to 120°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 140°C, even more preferably greater than or equal to 170°C, and/or less than 230°C, preferably less than 220°C, more preferably less than 210°C; the hot surfaces are preferably brought to such temperatures.
  • the amount of steam applied during step (iii) is greater than or equal to 1 g/min, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5 g/min and less than or equal to 10 g/min, more preferably less than or equal to 6 g/min, and even more preferably less than or equal to 4.5 g/min.
  • the steam applied to the hair fibres during step (iii) may contain one or more cosmetic ingredients and/or active agents such as a fragrance, and/or a hair shaping and/or conditioning active agent. alkaline agents, volatile or non-volatile silicones, reactive or chemically inert polymers, pigments, solid organic or inorganic particles, vitamins, plant extracts, or propenetrating agents or fibre-swelling agents.
  • composition applied to the hair fibres is preferably in the fluid state during the application.
  • the composition may be aqueous or anhydrous.
  • the composition may comprise at least one ingredient chosen from solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, dye precursors, direct dyes, silicone or non-silicone and fixing or non-fixing polymers, fatty substances, in particular mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, and waxes, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, UV screening agents, conditioning agents, agents for combating free radicals, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, acidifying agents, alkaline agents, volatile or non-volatile silicones, reactive or chemically inert polymers, pigments, solid organic or inorganic particles, vitamins, plant extracts, or propenetrating agents or fibre-swelling agents.
  • solvents solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, dye precursors, direct dyes, silicone or non-silicone and fixing or non-fixing polymers, fatty substances, in particular mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, and waxes, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, UV screening agents, conditioning agents, agents for combat
  • the composition is a hair fibre care composition.
  • the step of applying the composition can be followed or preceded by rinsing, by a step of washing the fibres, by a step of hair shaping or controlling the shape, for example using a fixing gel, a hair shaping mousse, a lacquer or a leave-in conditioner in cream form, by a step of permanent, semi-permanent or temporary dyeing, by a step of permanent deformation using a reducing agent and optionally a fixative, by a step of alkaline straightening, in particular with sodium hydroxide or with guanidine carbonate.
  • a process for treating hair fibres comprising:
  • the process may comprise a step (iii) of treating the hair fibres by applying steam.
  • the process comprises four successive steps 10, 12, 14 and 16 carried out on a lock of hair fibres by a device for shaping the head of hair.
  • the device is configured to perform the various steps of the process successively on the hair fibres, by movement of said device along the lock of hair, in particular over a portion of the hair fibres inserted between two arms of said device, forming an iron.
  • Step 10 is a step of combing the hair, making it possible to separate the hair fibres, before applying a composition in step 12.
  • the application of the composition 12 is carried out immediately after step 10.
  • the hair fibres are then subjected to a steam treatment 14 which is carried out immediately after step 12.
  • the hair fibres are subjected to a heat treatment 16 intended to smooth them. They are brought into contact with hot plates, in particular each arranged on one arm of the device, between which they are held tight.
  • composition 12 can be carried out using an applying member placed on one of the arms and which holds the portion of hair fibres undergoing treatment tight against a counter-bearing surface of the other arm.
  • a first device suitable for the treatment is used on locks of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IV curliness.
  • composition A INCI Name % by weight AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-6 (and) CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (1) 1.0 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.8 DIMETHICONE (and) LAURETH-23 (and) LAURETH-4 (2) 5.0 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.0 STEARYL ALCOHOL 1.5 Active agents 0.12 Fragrance 0.2 Preservative 0.9 Water qs 100 (1) XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION sold by the company DOW CORNING (2) XIAMETER MEM-2664 EMULSION sold by the company DOW CORNING
  • the locks are then subjected to steam with a flow rate of approximately 3.5 g/min, then the locks are pinched between two plates of the device, heated to a temperature of 200°C.
  • a second device is used on locks of hair of the same type as previously. This device makes it possible to carry out the same steps as previously, but the combing step is carried out after the application of the product.
  • the combing force is measured using a tensile testing machine, in particular a Lloyd LS1 ® with a 50 N sensor, by measuring the mechanical strength of the device by passing over a lock of hair.
  • Table 2 Combing force measured for the first and second devices, at equivalent amount of product applied COMBING FORCE / APPLICATION (a.u.) Condition Mean Standard deviation Second device 3807.8 1126.9 First device 1356.1 413.6
  • Carrying out the combing step before the applying step facilitates the movement of the device along the lock of hair while preserving good composition application.
  • a first device suitable for the treatment according to the invention is used on a lock of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IV curliness.
  • the lock is combed by passing through a comb and then composition A is applied to the lock by pinching the latter between an applying member and a counter-bearing surface.
  • the lock is then subjected to steam with a flow rate of approximately 3.5 g/min, and then it is pinched between two plates heated to a temperature of 200°C.
  • the above treatment is carried out by passing the device along the lock of hair for a period of 15 s.
  • a second device is used on a lock of hair of the same type as previously.
  • This second device makes it possible to carry out the same steps as previously, but the combing step is carried out after the application of the composition.
  • the treatment time is the same.
  • a commercial smoothing device in this case a Styler ® ghd gold classic, is used on a lock of hair of the same type as previously.
  • This smoothing device does not comprise any combing means and means for applying the composition. It is passed along the lock of hair 3 times, each pass lasting 8 s.
  • the locks of hair used for these various treatments are from the same batch.
  • Figure 3 presents four locks of hair.
  • the first lock 20 starting from the left is a lock of hair of the type previously described, which has undergone no treatment.
  • the second lock of hair 22 is a lock of hair of the same type, which has been treated with the first device.
  • the third lock of hair 24 is a lock of hair of the same type, which has been treated with the second device.
  • the last lock of hair 26 is a lock of hair of the same type, which has been treated with the commercial device.
  • a first treatment is carried out on a lock of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IV curliness.
  • a first device is used.
  • the device makes it possible to comb the lock by passing through a comb, then to apply composition A to said lock by pinching between an applying member and a counter-bearing surface.
  • the first device performs two passes lasting 15 s over the lock of hair.
  • the lock of hair passes through a commercial smoothing device, in this case the Styler ® ghd gold classic previously used.
  • This smoothing device makes it possible to pinch the lock of hair between two plates heated to a temperature of 190°C. It is passed along the lock of hair twice, each pass lasting 15 s.
  • a second treatment is carried out on a lock of hair of the same type as previously.
  • the second treatment is identical to the first, except that the applying step is carried out with a second device.
  • the latter makes it possible to carry out the same steps as previously, but the combing step is carried out after the application of the composition.
  • the treatment time and the number of passes over the lock of hair are the same.
  • the combing force as a function of the amount of product applied is determined by measuring the resistance of each device to the passing over a lock of hair using a tensile testing machine, in particular a Lloyd LS1 ® with a 50 N sensor. The measurements are taken for each applying and smoothing step.
  • the measurements are taken on three different locks of hair of the abovementioned type.
  • Carrying out the combing step before the applying step facilitates the movement of the devices along the lock of hair while preserving good composition application.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Procédé de traitement de fibres capillaires, comportant les étapes suivantes dans cet ordre de succession :
    (i) un peignage (10) des fibres capillaires,
    (ii) une application (12) d'une composition sur les fibres capillaires,
    (iii) un traitement des fibres capillaires par l'application de vapeur (14),
    (iv) un traitement thermique (16) des fibres capillaires par conduction et/ou rayonnement,
    dans lequel les étapes successives sont exécutées à l'aide d'un seul outil, la quantité de vapeur appliquée au cours de l'étape (iii) étant supérieure ou égale à 1 g/min et inférieure ou égale à 10 g/min.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, étant dépourvu d'étape de peignage après l'étape (ii) dans un délai de 15 s.
  3. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, comportant une unique étape de peignage.
  4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, l'étape (iii) ayant lieu après l'étape (ii) et avant l'étape (iv), notamment moins de 5 min, mieux moins de 1 min, encore mieux moins de 30 s, et préférentiellement moins de 15 s avant l'étape (iii) et après l'étape (ii).
  5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, l'étape (i) ayant lieu moins de 5 min, mieux moins de 1 min, encore mieux moins de 30 s, préférentiellement moins de 15 s, et encore préférentiellement moins de 5 s avant l'étape (ii).
  6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, l'étape (iv) ayant lieu moins de 5 min, mieux moins de 1 min, encore mieux moins de 30 s, et préférentiellement moins de 15 s après l'étape (ii).
  7. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, les étapes du procédé étant réalisées à l'aide d'un dispositif de mise en forme de la chevelure configuré pour mettre en œuvre les différentes étapes successivement sur une même portion de fibres capillaires.
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 7, les étapes du procédé étant effectuées par déplacement du ou des outil(s) le long d'une mèche de fibres capillaires.
  9. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, le traitement thermique étant réalisé par contact des fibres capillaires avec des surfaces chaudes.
  10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, le traitement thermique étant réalisé à une température supérieure ou égale à 90°C, de préférence supérieure ou égale à 120 °C, de préférence encore supérieure ou égale à 140°C, de manière encore plus préférée supérieure ou égale à 170°C, et/ou inférieure à 230°C, de préférence inférieure à 220°C, de préférence encore inférieure à 210°C.
  11. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, la composition étant à l'état fluide pendant l'application.
EP16744408.2A 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres capillaires Active EP3328236B2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21165765.5A EP3864995A1 (fr) 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres de cheveux

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1557256A FR3039374B1 (fr) 2015-07-29 2015-07-29 Procede de traitement de fibres capillaires
PCT/EP2016/067952 WO2017017158A1 (fr) 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres capillaires

Related Child Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP21165765.5A Division-Into EP3864995A1 (fr) 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres de cheveux
EP21165765.5A Division EP3864995A1 (fr) 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres de cheveux

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3328236A1 EP3328236A1 (fr) 2018-06-06
EP3328236B1 EP3328236B1 (fr) 2021-06-30
EP3328236B2 true EP3328236B2 (fr) 2024-06-12

Family

ID=54145930

Family Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP21165765.5A Pending EP3864995A1 (fr) 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres de cheveux
EP16744408.2A Active EP3328236B2 (fr) 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres capillaires

Family Applications Before (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP21165765.5A Pending EP3864995A1 (fr) 2015-07-29 2016-07-27 Procédé de traitement de fibres de cheveux

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US20180213910A1 (fr)
EP (2) EP3864995A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2018522662A (fr)
KR (1) KR20180021163A (fr)
CN (1) CN107920645A (fr)
ES (1) ES2887421T5 (fr)
FR (1) FR3039374B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2017017158A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3075579B1 (fr) * 2017-12-22 2020-01-03 L'oreal Procede de traitement des fibres capillaires
FR3075575B1 (fr) 2017-12-22 2021-08-27 Seb Sa Appareil de traitement de la chevelure a confinement de vapeur

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014064660A1 (fr) † 2012-10-26 2014-05-01 L'oreal Dispositif de traitement de la chevelure
WO2016189076A1 (fr) † 2015-05-26 2016-12-01 L'oreal Dispositif de traitement de la chevelure à verrouillage de cartouche du type à libération par poussée

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2721823B1 (fr) * 1994-06-30 1996-08-02 Oreal Procede pour la deformation permanente des matieres keratiniques
FR2868305B1 (fr) * 2004-04-02 2006-06-30 Oreal Procede de traitement capillaire et utilisation dudit procede
GB0614314D0 (en) * 2006-07-19 2006-08-30 Croda Int Plc Co-polymers in hair styling applications
FR2921805B1 (fr) * 2007-10-03 2011-04-01 Oreal Procede de traitement des cheveux a l'aide de vapeur d'eau
BRPI0912402A2 (pt) * 2008-05-30 2016-05-24 Oreal processos e kit de tratamento dos cabelos
FR2943895B1 (fr) * 2009-04-03 2011-05-06 Oreal Procede de traitement des cheveux a l'aide de vapeur d'eau.
FR2959917B1 (fr) * 2010-05-11 2012-07-27 Oreal Procede de traitement des cheveux
BR112013019829A2 (pt) * 2011-02-04 2019-09-24 N Syed Ali sistema melhorado de alisamento de cabelo
FR2987742B1 (fr) * 2012-03-09 2014-09-26 Oreal Procede de traitement pour la protection et la reparation des fibres keratiniques mettant en œuvre des polysaccharides oxydes
EP3297730A1 (fr) * 2014-12-19 2018-03-28 The Procter and Gamble Company Procédé de mise en forme de fibres de kératine

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014064660A1 (fr) † 2012-10-26 2014-05-01 L'oreal Dispositif de traitement de la chevelure
WO2016189076A1 (fr) † 2015-05-26 2016-12-01 L'oreal Dispositif de traitement de la chevelure à verrouillage de cartouche du type à libération par poussée

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
KR20180021163A (ko) 2018-02-28
FR3039374A1 (fr) 2017-02-03
ES2887421T5 (es) 2024-11-21
EP3328236B1 (fr) 2021-06-30
EP3864995A1 (fr) 2021-08-18
CN107920645A (zh) 2018-04-17
EP3328236A1 (fr) 2018-06-06
ES2887421T3 (es) 2021-12-22
JP2018522662A (ja) 2018-08-16
FR3039374B1 (fr) 2019-12-20
US20180213910A1 (en) 2018-08-02
WO2017017158A1 (fr) 2017-02-02

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