Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of oil-in-water emulsions and more particularly proposes oil-in-water emulsions based on vegetable oils formulated without surfactant or any other substitute substance.
• patents FR27221 16 and FR2720644 propose, for their part, examples of use of solid particles which ensure the dispersion of one of the two phases in the other. These particles also have the advantage of offering product textures that are more advantageous for the consumer.
• Other solutions are proposed by patents CA2295533 and FR2771293, which respectively describe the use of a cationic gel and a lipophilic agent whose hydrophilic / lipophilic balance (HLB) is less than 3. The stability of the preparations made is then ensured by the structuring that allow these compounds at the hydrophilic / lipophilic interface.
• HLB hydrophilic / lipophilic balance
• the invention relates to very simple compositions consisting of an emulsion of a vegetable oil in an aqueous solution, this aqueous solution preferably being a hydrosol.
• these compositions are stable in the absence of any surfactant molecule and pleasant to use.
• These compositions containing only vegetable oils and an aqueous phase constitute a new and innovative galenic.
• the present invention relates to novel short and simple galenical formulations of vegetable oils (HV) for use in natural cosmetics.
• HV vegetable oils
• These formulations constitute stable emulsions of HV in an aqueous solution without addition of surfactant.
• Such emulsions can be obtained for example using the method using high frequency ultrasound, as described in the patent application WO2010 / 149668.
• This preparation process makes it possible in particular to prepare a stable oil-in-water emulsion.
• This method combines a lipid phase with an aqueous phase by subjecting the mixture to vibratory energy, in a closed container, by applying a transducer operating in a frequency range between 900 kHz and 3 MHz.
• the transducer operates at a higher frequency or equal to 1 MHz.
• a first subject of the invention therefore relates to an oil-in-water emulsion-type composition comprising an aqueous solution and at least one HV, this composition not containing a surfactant surfactant and being obtained by an ultrasonic treatment whose frequency of vibration is greater than or equal to 1 MHz.
• compositions do not contain surfactant, emulsifier or any other substance or particle intended to stabilize the preparation with respect to phase separation.
• aqueous solution used to prepare the emulsion can be diverse. It is preferably an aqueous solution containing plant extracts, in particular a hydrosol, an infusion or a maceration of plants, or a fruit water.
• the aqueous solution is a hydrolate, pure or diluted, or a mixture of hydrolates.
• the amount of HV contained in the compositions must be adapted according to the nature of the HV and the use that one wishes to make. Indeed, some vegetable oils such as avocado oil or argan oil are suitable for dry skin, while others will be recommended for combination or oily skin such as nigella or hazelnut oil.
• the products obtained after emulsification can be used directly, for example in topical application.
• the proportion of HV contained in the compositions is generally between 2% and 50%, preferably between 15% and 30%. In a particular embodiment, the amount of HV is between 3 and 5%.
• the invention relates to compositions consisting of an emulsion of one or more HV in one or more aqueous solutions, in particular in one or more hydrosols.
• the vegetable oil and the hydrolate come from the same plant, for example a hydrosol of rose and a vegetable oil of rose.
• emulsions can be obtained from a mixture of aqueous solutions and / or a mixture of HV or from emulsions mixed with each other.
• Emulsions containing an aqueous solution and HV, excluding any texturizing agent, are liquid. So as to facilitate handling and use, gelling agents may be added without this denatures the emulsion, including its properties.
• the compositions according to the invention may contain gelling agents, preferably of natural origin, such as xanthan gum or alginates.
• gelling agents respects the naturalness and purity of the product and makes it possible to obtain a creamier and more pleasant texture when applied to the skin.
• the texture of the composition will depend on the amount of gelling agent added.
• the proportion of gelling agent will generally be less than 0.1%, preferably equal to 0% of the composition. In order to obtain a milk-type composition that has a flowable but non-sprayable appearance, the proportion of gelling agent will generally be between 0.1% and 0.8% of the composition.
• the proportion of gelling agent will generally be between 0.8% and 2% of the composition.
• the proportion of gelling agent will generally be between 2% and 5% of the composition.
• the texture is temperature dependent, these indications correspond to the appearance of the compositions at room temperature, ie at a temperature of about 20 ° C., and generally between 15 ° C. and 27 ° C.
• the gelling agents are added after emulsification according to the desired texture.
• moisturizing agents preferably of natural origin can be added to the composition, for example glycerin.
• moisturizing agents When moisturizing agents are added, their proportion is generally between 2% and 10% of the composition.
• the moisturizing agents may be added before or after emulsification; however, if the agents are hydrophobic, they will be added before emulsification.
• an acidity corrector to adjust the pH of the composition closer to that of the skin.
• This acidity corrector can be added either during the process or at the end of the process.
• antimicrobial products and / or antioxidants For better preservation of the compositions over time, it may be necessary to add antimicrobial products and / or antioxidants. In particular, it is important to avoid the rancidity of HV, which can become comedogenic.
• the percentage of antimicrobial product and / or antioxidants required varies depending on the activity of the product itself and the composition itself.
• antioxidants examples include Tocopherol (0.2%) and CO2 Extract of Rosemary (0.075%).
• compositions of the invention are numerous. Because of their simple formulation, these compositions are natural and healthy and they have less allergenic risk.
• the compositions can be 100% organic. They have a soft feel after application, in comparison with equivalent compositions in terms of ingredients but including surfactants, the latter having a tacky or roving feel.
• compositions are stable. Their stability is ensured by the method, in particular and preferably by an ultrasound treatment whose vibration frequency is greater than or equal to 1 MHz, as described in the patent WO2010 / 149668. Their stability at room temperature is observed for at least 3 months and up to more than 12 months.
• compositions according to the invention are compositions for topical use that can be used in humans or animals.
• the aqueous solution of the composition is an orange blossom hydrolate and the HV is an apricot kernel oil.
• An example of such a composition is described in Example 1; this composition can be used as a cleansing lotion.
• the composition may comprise an orange blossom hydrolate and a sweet almond HV.
• a cleansing milk can thus be obtained by adding coconut caprylate and xanthan.
• An example of such a composition is given in Example 2.
• Another object of the invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention containing an oil-in-water emulsion based on HV formulated without surfactant as a makeup remover (lotion or milk).
• the composition may comprise an orange blossom hydrosol, a hydrolat of governing lemon balm, a HV of apricot kernels, a sweet almond HV and a camel HV.
• a hand cream can be obtained by adding coco caprylate and xanthan.
• An example of such a composition is given in Example 3.
• the composition may comprise a peppermint hydrosol, an orange blossom hydrolate, a hydrolate of governing lemon balm, an jojoba, a sweet almond VI and an oily macerate of aloe vera.
• a moisturizer for the body can thus be obtained by additionally adding coconut caprylate and xanthan.
• An example of such a composition is given in Example 4.
• Figure 1 Effectiveness of removing make-up of an oil-in-water emulsion lotion based on HV formulated without surfactant.
• the photos show the makeup residue on the wiping cottons. Left column: after using an A-TS lotion with surfactant; right column: after use of lotion A without surfactant.
• Composition A is prepared using the method described in Application WO2010 / 149668 and defined below:
• An A-TS composition was prepared using the same process and using the same ingredients as for Composition A and in the same proportions, with the difference that 1% of Twin 80 is added as a surfactant. . b. Protocol for measuring the cleansing effect of lotions A and A-TS by colorimetry
• a photo of the cotton used for wiping is taken, with a resolution of at least 3-10 9 pixels.
• the image is loaded into a processing software in the form of a three-dimensional matrix so that it is described in the RGB (Red Green Blue) space. 4) A high-pass filter is applied to each of the dimensions, that is to say on each of the three colors of the definition space, so that the "colored spots" of makeup are clearly identified (threshold of cut at 35% intensity vis-à-vis the white of the cotton).
• Figure 1 shows a brown foundation color on wiping cottons.
• the coloring is clearly visible on the three cottons left after removing make-up with lotion A-TS.
• the traces are very slight or invisible on the right wiping cotton towels used after makeup remover with the lotion A.
• a cleansing milk preparation according to the invention can be obtained from the following ingredients:
• a stable equivalent product (prepared without high frequency vibration treatment) can not be obtained without the addition of surfactant.
• a product prepared with the same protocol but containing in addition a surfactant will have a lower efficiency.
• EXAMPLE 3 Formulation of a hand cream
• a hand cream preparation according to the invention can be obtained from the following ingredients:
• a stable equivalent product (prepared without high frequency vibration treatment) can not be obtained without the addition of surfactant.
• a product prepared with the same protocol but containing in addition a surfactant will have a lower efficiency.
• a moisturizing body milk preparation according to the invention can be obtained from the following ingredients:
• Table 4 Composition of a moisturizing body milk
• a stable equivalent product (prepared without high frequency vibration treatment) can not be obtained without the addition of surfactant.
• a product prepared with the same protocol but containing in addition a surfactant will have a lower efficiency.
• this milk has a high power of rehydration of the body and, during the application, it leaves no unpleasant sensation of stickiness or fat.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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• Biotechnology (AREA)
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• Dermatology (AREA)
• Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
• Emergency Medicine (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Edible Oils And Fats (AREA)
• Colloid Chemistry (AREA)

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• 2017
  • 2017-10-16 FR FR1771086A patent/FR3072288A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
• 2018
  • 2018-04-12 FR FR1853191A patent/FR3072291B1/fr active Active
  • 2018-10-16 EP EP18803742.8A patent/EP3697372A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2018-10-16 WO PCT/FR2018/052570 patent/WO2019077259A1/fr not_active Ceased

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