EP4171493A1 - Procédés de préparation de revêtements colorants de fibres de kératine avec une composition d'alcoxysilyle-polymère organique - Google Patents

Procédés de préparation de revêtements colorants de fibres de kératine avec une composition d'alcoxysilyle-polymère organique

Info

Publication number
EP4171493A1
EP4171493A1 EP21740444.1A EP21740444A EP4171493A1 EP 4171493 A1 EP4171493 A1 EP 4171493A1 EP 21740444 A EP21740444 A EP 21740444A EP 4171493 A1 EP4171493 A1 EP 4171493A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
group
keratin fibers
composition
color
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21740444.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Mathias Kurt Herrlein
Graham Neil Mckelvey
Matija Crne
Simon Paul Godfrey
Corinne Violette MOHR
Ingo Weber
Swapna PINAKATTU
Patrick Alexander KIEFER
Petra Barbara BRAUN
Andrej Gross
Felix HERKNER
Galina GROSS
Axel Meyer
Carl Uwe Oswald Ludwig SCHMIDT
Timothy Robert CLARK
Juergen Karl Anton SCHATZ
Claus SCHREINER
Heiko BAUKNECHT
Michael A. Brook
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Wella Germany GmbH
Original Assignee
Wella Germany GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Wella Germany GmbH filed Critical Wella Germany GmbH
Priority claimed from PCT/EP2021/067926 external-priority patent/WO2022002985A1/fr
Publication of EP4171493A1 publication Critical patent/EP4171493A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
    • A45D19/0066—Coloring or bleaching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

  • Film inflexibility, film irregularity, film thickness, inability to distribute color appropriately throughout hair tresses, film weakness and film dissolution through solvation, polar and/or ionic interaction with shampoo, organic liquids and other hair dressing components deliver undesirable tactile responses and physical displacement of the polymer film. These difficulties lead to flaking, hair strand breakage, artificial appearance, and irregular, undesirable color removal.
  • the kinds of coatings span the range from organic, silicone organosilicone compositions to biological protein derivative compositions. Mixtures and layers of coatings are typical in this respect. Suitability and compatibility of such mixtures and layers and their interactions with hair and scalp are problematic. Failure to establish compatible inter-surface connections can lead to coatings exhibiting flaking, roughness, stiffness, irregular films, lack of flexibility, rough texture, touch and feel, and lack of remanence. Strong inner-coating and keratin fiber connections can lead to coatings that exhibit stiffness, flaking, thick texture/feel and extreme difficulty in attempts to remove and/or replace the coating with another coating. Rapid setting and lack of flowability of the compositions for application can lead to patchy coverage instead of contiguous coating formation.
  • Anagenic hair differs from hair tresses because of hair root, mid-length and tip color differences of anagenic hair, keratin structural differences among and between root, mid and end portions of a living hair, continuous sebum secretions extending from the root to the end portion of each strand of anagenic hair, the individual differences in sebum compositional components from person to person, anagenic hair strand dimension, individualized topographic character of strand surfaces and compositional differences from person to person, the fatty acid or F layer, the variation of curl and color of differing regions of anagenic hair on the scalp, scalp skin issues and environmental factors.
  • anagenic hair relative to hair tresses
  • additional differences of anagenic hair relative to hair tresses include but are not limited to lack of cleanliness of anagenic hair, presence of pre-existing hair treatments including but not limited to hair styling formulations, permanent oxidative dye applications, permanent wave and/or curl treatment, application of oils and smoothing compositions and conditioning treatments typically applied to anagenic hair.
  • Still other difficulties involve regulatory requirements and the need to avoid tissue damaging and/or environmental attack by sunlight, UV, wind, rain and airborne chemicals, degrading chemicals in water and in hair care and hair dye compositions, as well as sweat and sebum.
  • the present invention meets these objectives through the design and application of methods to enable development of coloration of keratinous fibers such as, but not limited to, hair tresses, hair tresses designed to mimic anagenic hair, anagenic hair, eyebrow hair and eyelash hair, more preferably anagenic hair.
  • the design and application of the methods of the invention feature but are not limited to several embodiments including, pretreatment composition, film forming composition, priming and deep cleaning of keratin fibers, adjustment of components of each of the methods and control of parameters, conditions and additives for the methods.
  • Such downstream problems include but are not limited to development of strong but flexible interconnection between and among coating, pigment and hair strand surfaces, sebum and F layer effects upon such coating interconnections, root idiosyncrasies affecting interaction between color coating and keratin fiber surfaces, the effect of incomplete or ineffective removal of grubbiness, dirtiness, foulness of anagenic hair.
  • the multiple design features of color coatings benefit the color arrangement, distribution and maintenance of the color of anagenic hair as it is assailed by environmental factors including but not limited to UV rays, shampoo, brushing, combing, rinsing, rain, wind, coverings by scarves and hats, rubbing and drying with towels and hair dryers, hair conditioners, styling hair sprays, hot iron curling and other environmental and hair care factors.
  • these multiple design features according to the invention provide tactile, visual, sound and olfactory sensations at least similar to untreated anagenic hair.
  • the design features provide color coatings on keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair, that deliver texture/tactile properties such as lightness, fluffmess, free flowing, silkiness, non-stickiness and non-matting and other physical interactions to colored keratin fibers, preferably colored anagenic hair, that are similar to the interactions of natural, non-colored keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair of humans.
  • An aspect of the invention utilizes inventive embodiments of the color composition and their components to produce embodiments of the color coating on keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair.
  • the color coating embodiments are produced by curing the color composition embodiments present on the keratin fibers.
  • the color composition is an uncured combination of its components which may be cured to provide the color coating.
  • Embodiments of these components comprise a film forming composition and a pretreatment composition.
  • Embodiments of the film forming composition and pretreatment composition may be applied separately or together to the keratin fibers and cured (e.g., interbonded) according to methods of the invention to produce the color coating of an interconnected, overlapping and/or intermixed composite film laid onto keratin fibers such as surfaces of anagenic hair strands.
  • the colored coating on the keratin fibers, preferably on anagenic hair displays desirable characteristics including but not limited to remanence, wash-fastness, resistance to environmental attack.
  • the colored coating delivers elastomeric flexibility to enable free movement of the coated keratin fibers, pleasing texture characteristics similar to uncoated hair, tensile strength to resist flaking and breakage, and color mimicking of appropriate shades for roots, mid-length and tips of keratin fibers.
  • An aspect of the invention directed to achievement of the color coating on keratin fibers concerns embodiments of the pretreatment composition applied according to the methods of the invention.
  • Embodiments of the pretreatment composition comprise an organosilicon small molecule with pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl groups and optional organoamine groups.
  • Embodiments of the film forming composition comprise at least one in situ self cross linkable organic polymer binder having two or more pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl groups, preferably at least terminal alkoxysilyl groups. These embodiments also comprise one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies.
  • the embodiments of the film forming composition further may comprise at least a substance that functions as a catalyst in regard to alkoxysilyl condensation.
  • embodiments of the pretreatment composition are applied to keratin fibers before and/or simultaneous with and/or in combination with application of the film forming composition thereto.
  • the pretreatment composition may be applied and processed at least partially to facilitate condensation-cure of some of the alkoxysilyl groups thereof before application of the film forming composition.
  • the pretreatment composition may be applied and film forming composition immediately applied thereafter followed by processing to condensation-cure the self -condensable alkoxy groups of the pretreatment composition and film forming composition together.
  • the pretreatment composition and film forming composition may be combined together and applied as a mixture to the keratin fibers.
  • Use of a catalyst with the film forming composition may provide advantageous condensation rate of the pretreatment composition and the film forming composition irrespective of whether they are applied separately with intermediate curing, applied rapidly in sequence or pre-combined and applied as a mixture.
  • the pretreatment composition distributes preferentially to the keratin fiber surfaces so as to enable its interaction with features of the keratin protein at the surfaces of the keratin fibers.
  • Further aspects of the embodiments of the invention include at least in part a three- dimensional network of the color coating formed through the mutual self-condensable features of the color composition components comprising the film forming composition and pretreatment composition.
  • the small initial molecular size of the components of the pretreatment composition enable intimate networking interaction with keratin fiber surfaces and enable networking interaction with the components of the film forming composition so that initial sebum coating of anagenic hair and subsequent sebum secretion onto anagenic hair do not at least in part remove the color coating from the anagenic hair surfaces.
  • Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques deal with unique issues of anagenic hair such as but not limited to sebum coating on the keratin fiber strand surfaces, bound fatty acid layer (F layer) attached to keratin fiber strand surfaces, grime, grit, foulness and deposits from hair formulations previously applied to anagenic hair.
  • the Praeparatur technique substantially to essentially primes the hair to remove surface crusting and/or glazing and/or sebum while the Fundamenta technique deep cleans the surface character and/or surface structure of keratin fibers as well as removes the F layer.
  • These techniques may be applied separately and individually or may be applied together in either sequence. Irrespective of use of both or use of one or the other, these techniques are applied to hair before applying the pretreatment and film forming compositions.
  • Embodiments of the Praeparatur technique include but are not limited to mild agitation with an aqueous surfactant composition to strong interaction with an aqueous or aqueous organic medium with anionic surfactant and/or rinsing with aqueous media optionally having pH adjustment. Additional procedures include optional mechanical agitation with such aqueous media and combing, brushing, vibrating, ultrasound and similar chafing and/or scrubbing of the surfaces of keratin fibers.
  • Embodiments of the Fundamenta method involve restructuring of the hair strand surfaces including F layer removal and include but are not limited to one or more of a non- thermal equilibrium plasma treatment; chemical restructuring with a phase transfer tenside such as a multi-alkyl trimethyl ammonium halide; chemical restructuring with an oxidative agent such as persulfate, ozone or a peroxide such as benzoyl peroxide or hydrogen peroxide with optional alkali and optional surfactant cleaning.
  • a non- thermal equilibrium plasma treatment chemical restructuring with a phase transfer tenside such as a multi-alkyl trimethyl ammonium halide
  • chemical restructuring with an oxidative agent such as persulfate, ozone or a peroxide such as benzoyl peroxide or hydrogen peroxide with optional alkali and optional surfactant cleaning.
  • aspects of the invention are directed to embodiments of methods for application of the film forming composition, pretreatment compositions and Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques to form a color coating on keratin fibers such as anagenic hair.
  • Embodiments of the methods comprise parameters, conditions and techniques for any one or more of: a) an application of the film forming composition to keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair; b) an application of pretreatment compositions to keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair; c) Praeparatur techniques applied to keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair; and, d)
  • Fundamenta techniques applied to keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair or any combination of these methods to form a color coating on keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair.
  • the methods of the invention involving parameters, conditions and techniques for application of film forming composition may be directed to application of the film forming composition alone to keratin fibers.
  • the methods of the invention involve parameters, conditions and techniques for application of the pretreatment composition to keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair before, or simultaneous with, or mixed with, or in combination with the application of film forming composition.
  • application of sequential and/or simultaneous and/or mixed combinations of the film forming composition and the pretreatment composition may call for prior application of Preparatur and/or Fundamenta techniques to keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair.
  • the desirable characteristics of the color coatings on keratin fibers may be demonstrated by tests of the coloration on hair tresses prepared from unbleached natural white human hair (hereinafter untreated hair tresses), bleached natural white human hair (hereinafter treated hair tresses) and untreated hair tresses specially prepared with sebum so as to mimic anagenic hair (hereinafter mimic hair tresses) .
  • the two base line forms of hair tresses (untreated and treated hair tresses) are not anagenic hair in that they are cut natural hair so that they are not bathed in sebum secretions but nevertheless have the F layer coating.
  • the untreated hair tresses are substantially hydrophobic, have low porosity and have little or no keratin protein surface disruption.
  • the treated hair tresses are substantially less hydrophobic to more hydrophilic than, and have greater porosity than, the untreated hair tresses.
  • the treated hair tresses also display low to mild keratin protein surface disruption.
  • the mimic hair tresses are especially treated to demonstrate the sebum, F layer, grubbiness, foulness, and root, mid-length and tip issues associated with anagenic hair and especially those associated with the root segment of anagenic hair.
  • the root segment of anagenic hair is constantly bathed in sebum and has the F layer coating so that the root segment of anagenic hair shows the most extreme behavior difference relative to treated and untreated hair tresses.
  • the untreated hair tresses undergo a series of preparations designed to establish a close comparison with the behavior of anagenic hair, especially the root segments.
  • embodiments of color coatings according to the invention have been studied with anagenic hair, untreated hair tresses, treated hair tresses. The results of these preliminary studies have established the techniques and components for development of these hair tresses to enable their similarity to the behavior of anagenic hair, especially the root segments of anagenic hair.
  • Untreated, treated, and mimic hair tresses are accordingly able to function as the substrates for experimental development of the embodiments of the color coatings and methods for hair coloration with anagenic hair.
  • Fig. 1 illustrates a color gamut plot.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates a color combination plot.
  • Fig. 3 illustrates a color combination plot.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates a color combination plot.
  • Fig. 5 illustrates a color combination plot.
  • Fig. 6 illustrates a color combination plot-
  • an aqueous solution of A and/or B means an aqueous solution of A alone, an aqueous solution of B alone and an aqueous solution of a combination of A and B.
  • the molecular weight of a polymer or oligomer used according to the invention may be measured by a weight average molecular weight, and the distribution of molecules of different molecular weights of a polymer used according to the invention is determined by its polydispersity. Molecular weight is expressed as daltons (Da), kiloDaltons (KDa) and megaDaltons, which is million daltons or (MDa). The acronym Mw stands for weight average molecular weight, M n is the number average molecular weight of a given polymer. Polydispersity is a unit-less number and indicates the breadth of the distribution of the polymer molecular weights and is defined as the M w /M n.
  • a value of a variable that is necessarily an integer, e.g., the number of carbon atoms in an alkyl group or the number of substituents on a ring is described as a range, e.g., 0-4, what is meant is that the value can be any integer between 0 and 4 inclusive, i.e., 0, 1, 2, 3, or 4.
  • values expressed in a range format should be interpreted in a flexible manner to include not only the numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all the individual numerical values or sub-ranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and sub-range were explicitly recited.
  • Keratin fibers means any natural material containing keratin protein including hair, eye brows and eyelashes.
  • Natural keratin fibers include those from mammals and/or on mammals including human, primate, ruminant, camelid, equine, rodent and neovison including but not limited to cow, sheep, deer, goat, buffalo, lama, alpaca, camel, guanaco, vicuna, horse, antelope, , moose, elk, rat, mouse, beaver, rabbit, mink, monkey, ape and similar species.
  • Natural keratin material may include hair and fur. Keratin fibers include scalp hair, eyebrow hair and eyelash hair. Keratin fibers may be removed from their source such as hair cut from the scalp of a living person or may mimic anagenic hair when treated with sebum.
  • keratin fibers includes cut hair and anagenic hair.
  • keratin fibers are formed into tresses.
  • a tress is a shock of keratin fibers e.g., hair, held in a clamp at one end and free at the other end.
  • the hair on the head of the average person weighs about 100 g.
  • a tress is formed with about 1 gram of hair or about 1/100 the weight of the hair on the head of a person.
  • Typical commercial hair products for application to hair weigh about 100 to 120 g which translates into about 1 g of product per gram of a person’s hair. This relationship establishes the amount of experimental product to be applied to a tress of hair, 1 gm of experimental product per tress weighing about lg.
  • anagenic hair means hair strands that are in direct connection with a hair follicle which is in either the anagen or telogen state. Anagenic hair is present in one of these states on a scalp of a person, a human.
  • the follicle of anagenic hair produces long chain fatty acids, so-called F-layer, which form a water resistant coating on the cuticle of the hair shaft.
  • Joining the hair follicle channel is a sebaceous gland that secretes sebum onto the hair shaft and onto the scalp.
  • sebum produced at the follicle spreads out from the follicle and continues to coat the strand. Sebum is removed at least in part from strand ends by shampooing but is replenished by this continued production. Hair cut from a living person is no longer anagenic hair.
  • the terms “covalent, coordinate, electrostatic, ionic, dipolar and entanglement or entwining interactions” mean a chemical relationship between two atoms or two groups of atoms.
  • the interaction includes a covalent bond between the atoms such as the covalent bond between the two carbons of ethane.
  • the interaction includes a coordinate bond between two or more atoms such as the coordinate bond between oxygen and sulfur of the sulfate anion (SOT 2 ) or a complex of zinc and EDTA.
  • SOT 2 sulfate anion
  • the interaction includes an electrostatic or ionic interaction between two charged atoms or particles such as the interaction between sodium and chloride of salt or between ammonium and acetate of ammonium acetate.
  • Dipolar interaction includes hydrogen bonding such as the interaction between water and the hydroxyl of methyl alcohol.
  • the interaction includes entanglement or entwining which is lipophilic interaction or mechanical/physical twisting together such as is present in the molecules of polyethylene.
  • Adherence as used herein generally refers to an arrangement in which a substance formed of a polymer, oligomer or small molecule exhibits a connective aspect with another material such as another polymer, oligomer, small molecule, keratin protein, through such forces as covalent bonding, hydrogen bonding, coordinate interaction, electrostatic interaction, dipolar interaction, small force interaction, dispersion force at least as a result of entropy, molecular entanglement, mechanical interaction as may be exhibited on a molecular level by a molecular chain wrapping around irregular terrain features of a surface.
  • Adherence in this context may be, but not necessarily, shown by the inability of the adhered material to be removed from the substance without exertion of any force.
  • Entanglement as used herein generally refers to an arrangement in which a chain crosses an arbitrary plane 3 times. The chain is then entangled. If the chain is shorter and crossed only two times, it can be pulled in the middle and both ends will release without being bound. With three crossings, if the chain is at one point, it will trap another polymer chain at a different place.
  • transfer resistance generally refers to the quality exhibited by colored coatings that are not readily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, an item of clothing or the skin. Transfer resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such transfer. For example, transfer resistance of a colored coating can be evaluated by the amount transferred from a wearer to any other substrate after the expiration of a certain amount of time following application of the colored coating to the hair. The amount of colored coating transferred to the substrate can then be evaluated and compared. For example, a colored coating can be transfer resistant if a majority is left on the wearer's hair. Preferably little or no colored coating is transferred to the substrate from the hair.
  • the term “minimally alters the keratin fibers, upon application” generally means that after removal of the composition coating on the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers are returned to a substantially unaltered state.
  • the state of the keratin fibers can be assessed for example using ATR FT-IR for oxidative damage as described later or through tensile testing methods known to those skilled in the art for assessing fiber strength for example using equipment such as those designed and sold by Dia-StronTM.
  • the term “converting ” means causing covalently co-reactive pairs of components of a composition such as but not limited to the binder and linker of the film forming composition to react together chemically to produce the reacted form such as, for example a chain-extended and/or cross linked polymer functioning as coating or film. Converting is accomplished by the application of an activity designed to cause the covalent bonding of the reactive groups or pairs of the co-reactive components.
  • Activities enabling conversion include but are not limited to drying, heating, curing as in causing the curing/reacting together the co-reactive components, allowing the co-reactive components to combine or mix at standard conditions without further intervention, addition of a catalyst, changing pH of the composition and any other activity that is capable of influencing the reactivity and/or rate of the reaction of the co-reactive components.
  • Aliphatic substituent, group or component refers to any organic group that is non aromatic. Included are acyclic and cyclic organic compounds composed of carbon, hydrogen and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and other heteroatoms. This term encompasses all of the following organic groups except the following defined aromatic and heteroaromatic groups. Examples of such groups include but are not limited to alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, corresponding groups with heteroatoms, cyclic analogs, heterocyclic analogs, branched, dendritic, star or fullerene-like and linear versions and such groups optionally substituted with functional groups, as these groups and others meeting this definition of “aliphatic” are defined below.
  • Aromatic substituent, group or component refers to any and all aromatic groups including but not limited to aryl, aralkyl, heteroalkylaryl, heteroalkylheteroaryl and heteroaryl groups.
  • aromatic is general in that it encompasses all compounds containing aryl groups optionally substituted with functional groups (all carbon aromatic groups) and all compounds containing heteroaryl groups optionally substituted with functional groups (carbon-heteroatom aromatic groups), as these groups and others meeting this definition of “aromatic” are defined below.
  • Alkyl refers to a straight or branched, dendritic, star or fullerene-like or cyclic hydrocarbon chain group consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, unless otherwise specifically described as having additional heteroatoms or heterogroups.
  • the alkyl group contains no unsaturation, having from one to twenty four carbon atoms (e.g., C1-C24 alkyl).
  • a numerical range such as for example but not limited to “1 to 24” refers to each integer in the given range; e.g., “1 to 24 carbon atoms” means that the alkyl group may consist of 1 carbon atom, 2 carbon atoms, 3 carbon atoms, etc., up to and including 24 carbon atoms, although the present definition also covers the occurrence of the term “alkyl” where no numerical range is designated.
  • it is a C1-C4 alkyl group.
  • it is a C1-C6 alkyl group and in still other instances it is a Ci- C24 alkyl group.
  • Typical alkyl groups include, but are in no way limited to, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, sec-butyl isobutyl, tertiary butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, septyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, and the like.
  • the alkyl is attached to the rest of the molecule by a single bond, for example, methyl (Me), ethyl (Et), «-propyl, 1-methylethyl (Aopropyl), «-butyl, «-pentyl, 1,1 -dimethyl ethyl (/-butyl), 3-methylhexyl, 2-methylhexyl, and the like.
  • Alkylenyl refers to a straight or branched, dendritic or star divalent hydrocarbon chain consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, unless otherwise specifically described as having additional heteroatoms or heterogroups.
  • the alkylenyl group contains no unsaturation, has a dangling valence bond at either end of the chain for bonding to two other moieties.
  • the alkylenyl group may have a carbon number range of 1 to 24 carbon atoms unless otherwise specified. In all cases the general and specific numerical range of carbon atoms includes each integer in the range.
  • alkylenyl group An example of a divalent hydrocarbon chain designated as an alkylenyl group is as follows: -CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-; the dashes (-) indicate valence bonds to other atoms or moieties not shown.
  • This example of an alkylenyl group is butyl enyl.
  • Cycloalkyl is a subcategory of “alkyl” and refers to a monocyclic or polycyclic group that contains only carbon and hydrogen, and may be saturated, or partially unsaturated. Cycloalkyl includes one or more rings, such as two or three or four rings either linked in tandem or through alkyl group or fused. Cycloalkyl groups include groups having from 3 to 24 ring atoms (i.e., C3-C24 cycloalkyl).
  • a numerical range such as but not limited to “3 to 24” refers to each integer in the given range; e.g., “3 to 24 carbon atoms” means that the cycloalkyl group may consist of 3 carbon atoms, etc., up to and including 24 carbon atoms. In some embodiments, it is a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group. In some embodiments, it is a C3-C5 cycloalkyl group. Pursuant to the definition of alkylenyl, a cycloalkyenyl group is a monocyclic or polycyclic group with two dangling valences for bonding to two other moieties.
  • cycloalkyl groups include but are not limited to the following moieties: cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclopentenyl, cyclohexyl, cyclohexenyl, cycloseptyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl, cyclodecyl, norbomyl, and the like.
  • Alkoxy refers to the group -O-alkyl, including from 1 to 24 carbon atoms of a straight, branched, dendritic, star or cyclic configuration and combinations thereof attached to the parent structure through an oxygen. Examples include methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, isopropoxy, cyclopropyloxy, cyclohexyloxy and the like. “Lower alkoxy” refers to alkoxy groups containing one to six carbons. In some embodiments, alkyl is an alkyl group which encompasses both linear, branched, dendritic, star or fullerene-like chain alkyls of multiple carbon atoms.
  • alkoxy such as an alkoxysilyl group means a C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, more preferably C1-C2 alkoxy such as methoxy and ethoxy.
  • alkoxysilyl refers to a silicon atom substituted by three alkoxy groups, in other words a trialkoxysilyl group, and in which the silicon atom joins either a carbon or an oxygen depending upon the identity of the moiety to which the alkoxysilyl group is bound, such as but not limited to an organic compound, a siloxane compound, an organosiloxane compound, an organic polymer backbone, a silicone polymer backbone or an organosilicone backbone.
  • alkoxysilyl as used herein is a synonym and means a trialkoxysilyl group, in other words -Si(OR)3 in which R is an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbons, preferably 1 to 3 carbons and more preferably methyl or ethyl.
  • R is an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbons, preferably 1 to 3 carbons and more preferably methyl or ethyl.
  • the hydrolysis intermediate of each alkoxy of the alkoxysilyl group is hydroxy group as in hydroxysilyl
  • the hydroxysilyl group is included in this definition.
  • One of the alkoxys of the alkoxysilyl group may hydrolyze and the resulting hydroxysilyl may condense with another hydroxysilyl group derived from the corresponding alkoxysilyl group to form an Si-O-Si bond.
  • this multiple Si-O-Si bonding arrangement for a single alkoxysilyl group means that the molecule with the single alkoxysilyl group may undergo multiple condensations.
  • the molecule with an alkoxysilyl may be chain extended with another molecule with an alkoxysilyl to produce a linear chain extended molecule.
  • This linear chain extended molecule contains additional Si-OR functions at this Si-O-Si chain extension. These additional Si-OR functions can again condense with a corresponding Si-OR function of another linear chain extended molecule. The result is a cross-link at the intermediate section of these molecules bearing the Si-O-Si link. These additional Si-OR’ s of separate chain extended molecules can therefor condense to crosslink the separate chain extended molecules.
  • “Amino” or “amine” refers to an -N(R a )2 group, where each R a is independently hydrogen or an alkyl group of 1 to 3 carbons, eg, methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • “Aryl” is a subcategory of aromatic and refers to a conjugated pi ring or multiple rings with six to twenty two ring atoms. The aryl group has at least one ring having a conjugated pi electron system which is carbocyclic (e.g., phenyl, fluorenyl, naphthyl and anthracenyl). Included are partially saturated aryl rings such as tetrahydro naphthyl.
  • Heteroalkyl “heteroalkenyl” and “heteroalkynyl” include optionally substituted alkyl, alkenyl and alkynyl groups and which have one or more skeletal chain atoms selected from an atom other than carbon, e.g., oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus or combinations thereof.
  • a numerical range may be given, e.g. C1-C24 heteroalkyl which refers to the chain length in total, which in this example may be as long as 24 atoms long.
  • a - CH2OCH2CH3 group is referred to as a “C4” heteroalkyl, which includes the heteroatom center in the atom chain length description. Connection to the rest of the molecule may be through either a heteroatom or a carbon in the heteroalkyl chain.
  • Heteroaryl refers to a 5, 6 or 10-membered aromatic group (e.g., C5-C13 heteroaryl) that includes one or more ring heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur, and which may be a monocyclic, bicyclic, tricyclic or tetracyclic ring system or a conjugated ring system such as cyclopentadienyl optionally with a bridging atom providing conjugation such as pyrrole or ferrocenyl. Whenever it appears herein, a numerical range refers to each integer in the given range.
  • heteroaryl refers to an aromatic group in which at least one of the skeletal atoms of the ring is a nitrogen atom.
  • the polycyclic heteroaryl group may be monocyclic or non- monocyclic.
  • the heteroatom(s) in the heteroaryl group is optionally oxidized.
  • One or more nitrogen atoms, if present, are optionally quaternized.
  • the heteroaryl is attached to the rest of the molecule through any atom of the ring(s).
  • heteroaryls include, but are not limited to pyrrolyl, furanyl, thiophenyl, imidazolyl, pyranyl, pyridinyl, pyrimidinyl, benzimidazole, benzothiophenyl, quinolinyl, quinazolinyl, and similar heteroaryl compounds of 6 to 12 carbons and 1, 2 or 3 heteroatoms including any combination of nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur.
  • Heterocyclic refers to any monocyclic or polycyclic moiety comprising at least one heteroatom selected from nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur.
  • heterocyclyl moieties can be a partially saturated aromatic ring or a saturated monocyclic or polycyclic ring wherein the ring may be formed of 3 to 8 atoms.
  • polymer or “Poly” means any or more of an organic, silicone or organosilicone compound formed from multiple monomeric units.
  • the units may be identical or may be a combination of units of differing identities.
  • the number of units present may range from at least 2 to compounds having very large number of units.
  • Typical weight average molecular weights of a polymer may range from less than one hundred Da to a million or more Da.
  • Compounds and groups including a polymer, an alkyl, an alkylenyl, a carbon or silicone chain, a carbon or silicon backbone, an aliphatic group of multiple carbons, hetero forms of any of the foregoing compounds and groups, as well as groups including aromatic, heteroaromatic cycloalkyl heterocycloalkyl or hetero forms thereof bearing any of these foregoing compounds and groups may have a structural configuration of linear, branched, star or dendritic which is a sub-category of branched. A preferred configuration is branched or linear and a more preferred configuration is linear. Use of any of these terms without indicating a particular configuration incorporates all of these configurations and means that linear and/or branched is preferred and linear is most preferred.
  • in situ linking and “in situ linkable” and “Cross linkable” mean the potential at a future time to form covalent bonds to provide interactions and/or connections between molecules.
  • in situ linked and “cross linked” mean that in the present state, covalent bonds have already occurred.
  • in situ is a Latin phase meaning in its original place. In the context of this invention, it means an activity such a cross linking that takes place on the hair.
  • the average reactive functional group equivalent weight as used herein means for a reactive functional group of a complementary pair, the ratio of the weight average molecular weight of the polymer, oligomer or small molecule containing the reactive functional group to the average number of occurrences of that reactive functional group in the polymer, oligomer or small molecule. If the Mw of a polymer is lKDa and the average number of occurrences of the reactive functional group in the polymer is 2, the Mw for the reactive functional group equivalent weight is (1 KDa)/2 or 500 Da.
  • Coefficient of thermal expansion refers to the fractional increase in length of a species per Celsius increase in temperature at a constant pressure with a starting temperature of 25 °C.
  • Zeta potential relating to pigment microparticles means the electrokinetic potential of extremely small particles suspended in colloidal dispersions. It is caused by the net electrical charge at the particle interface with the suspending fluid. It is an indicator of the stability of a colloidal dispersion. The magnitude indicates the degree of electrostatic repulsion between adjacent similar charged particles in a dispersion. At zero or minimal + or - potential, rapid coagulation can occur. At a + or - zeta potential above about 40 mV, good colloidal stability is maintained. Zeta potential can be measured using approaches known to those skilled in the art. For example, a Zetasizer Nano Z from Malvern Panalytical Ltd, Malvern U.K. may be used to assess the zeta potential of the components.
  • Microfibril length as used herein general refers to a distribution of lengths for any given microfibril, and the fiber length refers to the average fiber length, assessed over a minimum of 10 fibers chosen randomly from a sample of the microfibrils.
  • the length refers to the end to end distance along the major axis of the material and is not a measure of the cross sectional width.
  • Hansen Solubility Parameters constitute a technique for characterizing solubility, dispersion, diffusion, chromatography and related topics for a particular material.
  • the material such as a solvent or solute can be characterized by three parameters 5D for Dispersion (van der Waals), 5P for Polarity (related to dipole moment) and dH for hydrogen bonding.
  • 5D for Dispersion van der Waals
  • 5P for Polarity related to dipole moment
  • dH hydrogen bonding
  • Hydrogen bonding refers to a weak bond between two molecules resulting from an electrostatic attraction between a proton in one molecule and an electronegative atom in the other.
  • Ionic bonding refers to a type of chemical bonding that involves the electrostatic attraction between oppositely charged ions.
  • Young's modulus is a mechanical property that measures the stiffness (e.g., stretchiness) of a solid material. It defines the relationship between stress (force per unit area) and strain (proportional deformation) in a material in the linear Hookean elastic regime of a uniaxial deformation. In other words, the ability of a material to withstand changes in length when under lengthwise tension or compression.
  • Tg or glass transition temperature refers to the temperature range through which a material, such as but not limited to a polymer, transitions from amorphous solid-like or glass-like properties at a lower temperature to viscous or rubber-like properties at a higher temperature.
  • the transition is not a phase transition such as solid to liquid.
  • Embodiments of the color coatings on mimic hair, treated hair and untreated hair typically will exhibit a Tg range well below ambient temperature so that the films produced will exhibit flexible, elastomeric, smooth physical properties.
  • a nanoemulsion is a liquid/liquid, liquid/solid, liquid/gas or gas/gas composition in which there is at least one discontinuous phase dispersed in a continuous phase and in which the average particle or micellar diameter of the discontinuous phase is in the range lOnm - 300nm.
  • the term “sebum” is an oily, waxy substance produced by the sebaceous glands of the human body. It coats, moisturizes, and protects skin and hair. Sebum is primarily composed of triglycerides (-41%), wax esters (-26%), squalene (-12%), and free fatty acids (-16%).
  • the sebum used to form mimic hair is Hautfett nach BEY, sold by Wfk-Testgewebe GmbH which comprises 18.0% free fatty acids, 32.8% beef tallow, 3.6% triglycerides, 18.3% wool fat, 3.7% cholesterol, 12.0% hydrocarbons, 11.6% cutina.
  • the term “surface energy” quantifies the disruption of intermolecular bonds that occurs when a surface is created.
  • the surface energy may be defined as the excess energy at the surface of a material compared to the bulk, or it is the work required to build an area of a particular surface. Perhaps the most widely used definition of surface energy, historically, is that of Zisman ("Relation of Equilibrium Contact Angle to Liquid and Solid Constitution",
  • Zisman defines the surface energy of a solid to be equal to the surface tension of the highest surface tension liquid (real or imaginary) that will completely wet the solid, with a contact angle of 0°. This comes from the widely observed tendency of contact angle to decrease as liquid surface tension decreases on the same solid sample.
  • a Zisman plot is created for a test surface using a series of different probe liquids with known surface tensions, with the known surface tensions plotted on the x axis, and the cosine of the resulting contact angle with the test surface plotted on the y axis.
  • the highest surface tension when the cosine of the contact angle reaches 1 is determined to be the surface energy of the test substrate.
  • the Owens/Wendt theory (Owens, D.K.; Wendt, R.C.; Jour of Applied Polymer Science, 13, 1741, (1969)) is a further development to measure the surface energy of a test substrate. It considers the surface energy being comprised of two components - a dispersive component and a polar component.
  • the dispersive component accounts for van der Waals and other non-site specific interactions that a surface is capable of having with applied liquids.
  • the polar component theoretically accounts for dipole-dipole, dipole-induced dipole, hydrogen bonding, and other interactions which a surface is capable of having with applied liquids.
  • the terms “priming” and “deep cleaning” refer to the substantial to essentially complete removal of sebum and F-layer substances from the surfaces of anagenic hair and also refer to removal of synthetic sebum and F layer substances on mimic hair tresses.
  • the Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques accomplish the priming and deep cleaning of keratin fiber surfaces. Practice of these priming and deep cleaning techniques may accomplish adjustment of the keratin fiber surfaces so as to expose variable surface topography and gain an intimate interaction with agents small enough to access the variations of the topography.
  • the present invention is directed to methods and compositions for development of color coatings on keratin fibers, particularly anagenic hair. These methods and compositions may also be applied to keratin fibers relating to all sources such as hair tresses, animal hair and similar keratin fibers.
  • the qualities and properties of the aspects of the film forming composition, the pretreatment composition, their combination as the color composition, the curing thereof, the Preparaetur and Fundamenta techniques and methods of application contribute to, enhance and promote qualities of the resulting color coating so that the coated keratin fibers and especially coated mimic tresses and anagenic hair demonstrate significant remanence while also demonstrating a performance similar to that of young, uncoated, vibrant, attractive hair of the scalp.
  • the color coating exhibits qualities including but not limited to flex, stretch and bend, integrity of continuous film under flex, stretch and bend conditions, wash-fastness, remanence, color coordination and resistance to degradation and damage caused at least by, but not limited to, UV radiation, sebum, F layer, sweat, rain, wind and/or environmental attack.
  • Embodiments of the method for forming the color coating on keratin fibers involve the steps of application of compositional embodiments to the surfaces of the keratin fibers to form a composite film on the surface followed by drying and curing the composite film to form the color coating on the surfaces of keratin fibers.
  • the compositional embodiments include a pretreatment composition and a film forming composition.
  • the pretreatment composition comprises a medium and an organosilicone small molecule with at least alkoxysilyl groups and/or with optional organoamine groups.
  • the film forming composition comprises a medium, a binder with alkoxysilyl groups and pigment microparticles and/or color bodies.
  • a catalyst included in the film forming composition is preferred for enabling curing of the composite film containing binder and small molecule at a reasonably rapid rate.
  • the binder, catalyst and pigment/color body components of the film forming composition are maintained separately in media and are mixed prior to use.
  • the pigment/color body component comprises groups of preformulated differently colored microparticle pigments/color bodies optionally coated with the organosilicone small molecule of the pretreatment composition dispersed in a dispersant medium. Selections from the groups of differently colored pigments may be pre-blended and provided as a wide number of choices of pre-formulated shades and hues for the hair to be colored.
  • the keratin fibers are primed and/or deep cleaned with either, or both in any order, of the Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques. As explained above, priming and deep cleaning combined with the pretreatment and film forming compositions delivers a color coating on anagenic hair that displays significant remanence.
  • Embodiments of the film forming composition are directed to at least one in situ cross linkable self covalently reactive organic polymeric binder having two or more alkoxysilyl pendant and/or terminal groups, preferably at least terminal alkoxysilyl groups.
  • the binder is preferably linear or branched, more preferably linear.
  • the film forming composition further comprises one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies.
  • the film forming composition also comprises a medium in which the self covalently cross linkable binder, pigment(s) and/or color bodies are dispersed, mixed and/or otherwise contained.
  • the film forming composition further comprises a substance that functions as a catalyst in relation to the in situ cross linkable binder.
  • Application of the film forming composition to keratin fibers may also include a conversion step such as drying and curing to evaporate residual medium from the film forming composition on the surfaces of the keratin fibers and to cause the alkoxysilyl condensation thereby producing a chain extended, crosslinked polymer network comprising a film.
  • a conversion step such as drying and curing to evaporate residual medium from the film forming composition on the surfaces of the keratin fibers and to cause the alkoxysilyl condensation thereby producing a chain extended, crosslinked polymer network comprising a film.
  • the binder may comprise a polymer or copolymer of ester, amide, urethane, urea, ether and/or olefmic monomeric units or any combination thereof with at least two pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl groups, and preferably at least two of the alkoxysilyl groups are terminal groups.
  • the binder may be a random or block copolymer and may have a linear or branched, preferably a linear configuration.
  • the self-reactive organic binder comprises Formula IA
  • X may be alkoxy of 1 to 3 carbons, preferably methoxy or ethoxy.
  • the group R 1 is a Cl to C8 linear or branched alkyl enyl group.
  • the group Ct is a connector group which joins or connects X 3 S1-R 1 - to Poly.
  • Group Ct comprises Formula II:
  • U 1 and U 2 are each independently a urea or urethane group.
  • the group U 1 is covalently bonded to R 1 and the group U 2 is covalently bonded to Poly.
  • the group R 2 is a C2 to C12 linear or branched alkylenyl group, a C6-C16 alkylcycloalkyl group which may include one or multiple cycloalkyl rings linked in tandem or linked by alkyl groups, a C6-C12 aromatic group which may include one or multiple aromatic groups or a C6-C14 alkyl aromatic group which may include one or multiple aromatic groups linked in tandem or linked by alkyl groups.
  • Embodiments of the group R 2 are derived from common diisocyanates.
  • hexamethylene diisocyanate (1,6-hexane diisocyanate) produces an alkylenyl group.
  • Isophorone diisocyanate produces an alkyl cycloalkyl group.
  • Toluene diisocyanate produces an alkyl aromatic group.
  • Methylene bis(cyclohexane isocyanate) also produces an alkylcycloalkyl group.
  • Methylene diphenylisocyanate produces an alkyl aromatic group.
  • Formula II is produced by combination of an R 2 -diisocyanate and the corresponding hydroxyl or amine from XsSiR ⁇ G and G-Poly in which each G independently is an amine or hydroxy group.
  • the group Poly is the primary binder backbone providing flexibility, tensile strength and film formation for the color coating.
  • Poly is an organic backbone of monomeric units such as but not limited to ester, amide, urethane, urea, olefin units and at least with terminal alkoxysilyl groups (i.e., trialkoxysilyl groups as defined in the Definitions section).
  • the backbone of Poly may be of any configuration, which preferably is a linear or branched configuration, and the linear configuration is the most preferred configuration. In a branched configuration of Poly, the optional pendant alkoxysilyl groups may be the termini of the branches.
  • each alkoxysilyl group of the binder Because of the multiple condensation ability of each alkoxysilyl group of the binder, their condensation to form Si-O-Si bonds produces an in situ crosslinked binder forming a three dimensional network. All configurations of Poly, and preferably the linear configuration of Poly, produce this binder network with Si-O-Si connections which extend the backbone and interconnect separate backbones as cross links due to the multiple times an alkoxysilyl group can condense with other alkoxysilyl groups. Although it is not a limitation of the invention, it is believed that the in situ crosslinking occurs as well with the pretreatment alkoxysilyl small molecules to establish the three dimensional network throughout the combination of binder and small molecules.
  • the group Poly may have any structural configuration as described in the Definitions section, and preferably has a linear backbone configuration and may be formed of monomeric units of an ester, urethane, urea, amide or polyol (ether) group or any combination thereof.
  • the designator y indicates the extent of Poly and is an integer designating the number of monomeric units of Poly forming the backbone. Accordingly, y is an integer of from about 2 up to about 1 million, preferably up to about 300,000, more preferably up to about 250,000, most preferably up to about 200,000.
  • the ester monomeric unit may be formed of a C2-C10 linear or branched alkane diol or a C8-C20 aromatic diol, and a C3 to CIO linear or branched alkanodioic acid or a C8-C10 aromatic dicarboxylic acid or formed of a C3-C10 hydroxy alkanoic acid or a C8-C10 aromatic hydroxy carboxylic acid.
  • the urethane monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkanodiol and an R 3 diisocyanate wherein R 3 is as described below.
  • the urea monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 linear or branched alkanodiamine and an R 3 diisocyanate.
  • the amide monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkanodiamine and a C3 to CIO alkanodioic acid or C8-C10 aromatic dicarboxylic acid.
  • the polyol monomeric unit of Poly is a polyol
  • the polyol monomeric unit is a formed of ethylene oxide (linear) or propylene oxide (branched).
  • a preferred ester monomer of Poly is formed of glycol, 1,4-butanediol or 1,6- hexanediol and malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid or any combination thereof or alternatively, the Poly is formed from a hydroxy acid such as glycolic or lactic acid, co-hydroxy propanoic acid, co-hydroxybutanoic acid or p-hydroxybenzoic acid.
  • An especially preferred ester monomer of Poly is formed of glycol(dihydroxy ethane) or 1,6-hexanediol and succinic acid, adipic acid or phthalic or terephthalic acid.
  • a preferred urethane monomer of Poly is formed of glycol, 1,4-butanediol or 1,6- hexanediol and isophorone diisocyanate, methylene bis(phenylisocyanate), toluene diisocyanate or 1,6-hexane diisocyanate.
  • An especially preferred urethane monomer of Poly is formed of glycol or 1,6-hexanediol and isophorone diisocyanate or toluene diisocyanate.
  • a preferred urea monomer of Poly is formed of 1,3-propanediamine, 1,4- butanediamine or 1,6-hexanediamine and isophorone diisocyanate, methylene bis(phenylisocyanate), toluene diisocyanate or 1,6-hexane diisocyanate.
  • An especially preferred urethane monomer of Poly is formed of 1,3-propanediamine or 1,6-hexanediamine and isophorone diisocyanate or toluene diisocyanate.
  • a preferred amide monomer of Poly is formed of 1,3-propanediamine, 1,4- butanediamine or 1,6-hexanediamine and malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid or any combination thereof.
  • An especially preferred amide monomer of Poly is formed of 1,3-propanediamine or 1,6-hexanediamine and succinic acid, adipic acid or phthalic or terephthalic acid.
  • a preferred polyol of Poly is a PEG-200 to PEG -2000.
  • the Poly group may be any combination of ester, urethane, urea, amide and/or polyol block or random arrangements.
  • a) a combination of polyester and polyurethane blocks may be formed from a diol and blocks of dicarboxylic acids and diisocyanates;
  • b) a combination of polyester and polyurea blocks may be formed from their respective reactants and the joinder between blocks may be formed as a urethane connection by reacting a polyester block terminating with a hydroxyl and a polyurea block terminating with an isocyanate;
  • a combination of polyester and polyamide blocks may be formed from a dicarboxylic acid and blocks of diols and diamines;
  • d) a combination of polyester and polyol blocks may be formed from a polyol and blocks of diol and dicarboxylic acid;
  • e) a combination of polyurethane and polyurea blocks may be formed from their respective reactants and the joinder between blocks may be formed as
  • U 1 will always be urea when the trialkoxysilyl alkylenyl-G starting material is a trialkoxysilylalkylenylamine. Alternatively, U 1 will always be urethane when the trialkoxy alkylenyl-G starting material is an trialkoxysilylalkylenylalcohol (OH). In the following provisos, U 1 is always urea resulting from the preferred trialkoxysilylalkylenylamine starting material. a) When Poly ends with an ester monomeric unit, U 2 is a urethane group and U 1 is a urea group.
  • the R 3 group may be a C2 to C12 linear or branched alkyl enyl group, a C6-C16 alkyl cycloalkyl group or a C6-C14 aromatic group.
  • R 2 and R 3 are both the organic groups for the diisocyanate reactant forming the urethane and urea groups.
  • R 2 and R 3 may each independently be methylene bisphenyl (as in methylene bis(phenylisocyanate), toluenylenyl (as in toluene diisocyanate), hexanylenyl (as in hexamethylene diisocyanate), naphthalenyl (as in naphthalene diisocyanate), methylene bis cyclohexyl enyl (as in methylene bis (cyclohexylisocyanate) which is hydrogenated methylene bis (phenylisocyanate)) and isophoronylenyl (as in isophorone diisocyanate).
  • Poly may optionally contain one or more trifunctional groups such as a triol or triamine which function to provide pendant alkoxysilyl groups for the organic binder.
  • the third hydroxyl or amine of the trifunctional group constitutes a link to a pendant SiX 3 through the same Ct-R 1 group of Formula IA.
  • This version of the organic binder comprises Formula IB in which Z is trifunctional group linked through Ct-R 1 to the third SiX 3 :
  • the Z group is derived from a triol or triamine starting material of the formula III
  • the third Y group, the pendant Y group of the triol or triamine (hydroxyl or NFb) is bonded through Ct to R'-SiX 3 so that the pendant Y of the triol or triamine starting material of Formula IV becomes part of a urethane or urea group just as shown for Ct of Formula I.
  • the resulting full Formula IB in which Z is has the structure R 4 - R 5 -Ct-R 1 -SiX 3 is:
  • the designator z indicates the number of pendant alkoxysilyl groups present in the binder.
  • designator z is an integer from 1 to 1 thousand and specifies the number of trifunctional groups present in Formula F.
  • z is an integer from 1 to 100, more preferably from 1 to 10, especially more preferably from 1 to 5 and most preferably from 1 to 3.
  • the sum of the integer designators x, z and a equals y so that the weight average molecular weight of the binder of Formula F is the same as the weight average weight of the binder of Formula I.
  • Versions of the Binder may be all of Formula IA or all of Formula IB which is a binder having terminal and pendant alkoxysilyl groups.
  • the binder as well may be a mixture of Formula IA and Formula IB.
  • the ratio of Formula IA to Formula IB may range from may be in a range of 100:1 to 1:100, preferably 50:1 to 10:9 or 25:1 to 2:1 or 20:1 to 10:1.
  • the weight average molecular weight of Formula IA and Formula IB may range from about 1 KDa to about lMDa, preferably from about 1 KDa to about 500 KDa, more preferably from about 1 KDa to 300 KDa, especially more preferably from at least about 2 KDa up to about 250 KDa, most preferably from at least about 2KDa up to about 150 to about 200 KDa.
  • the designator y of Formula IA is chosen to provide an average molecular weight in this range.
  • the sum of the designators x, z and a of Formula IB is chosen to equal the choice for y and the average molecular weight in this range.
  • the choice of the ratio of z relative to the two terminal alkoxysilyl groups for Formula IB may preferably range from 1 :2 to 100:2 more preferably from 1 :2 or 2:2 to 20:2, most preferably at least 1 :2 up to 5:2 or 10:2.
  • the presence of the pendant alkoxysilyl group provides additional crosslinking among the binder molecules and with the pretreatment small molecule. Although it is not a limitation of the invention, it is believed that the additional crosslinking is capable of delivering a significant remanent color coating on keratin fibers.
  • Preferred embodiments of the organic binder of Formula IA provide: a) Poly as a polyurethane constructed of a C4-C6 alkane diol, preferably hexane diol and isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate or methylene bis (phenylisocyanate), or b) Poly as a polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol or c) Poly as a polyester constructed of a C2-C6 alkane diol, preferably ethylene glycol and succinic acid, adipic acid or any form of phthalic acid, preferably terphthalic acid.
  • the Ct group is formed from a C1-C4 alkane diisocyanate.
  • the R'-SiX 3 group is formed from an co-amino propyl or isobutyl triethoxysilane or the trimethoxysilane homolog.
  • a preferred embodiment of the organic binder of Formula IB has Poly, Ct and lC-SiXs as described above for the preferred polyurethane and polyester organic binders of Formula IA of the foregoing subparagraphs a and c except that from about 0.1 wt % to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 3 wt% of the C4-C6 alkane diol is replaced by 3-(3-hydroxyprop-l-yl)-l,6-hexanediol so that the ratio of pendant alkoxysilyl to terminal alkoxysilyl groups of preferred Formula IB is from 1:2 to 5:2, preferably 1:2 to 3:2.
  • An especially preferred embodiment of the binder of Formula IA comprises Formula V which is a linear a polyester with terminal alkoxysilyl groups:
  • the preferred weight average molecular weight of preferred versions of Formulas IA, IB and V may be in the range of about 5KDa to about 200 KDa, preferably about 5 KDa to about 50 KDa to about 100 KDa.
  • Versions of the Poly monomer displaying flexible alkylenyl groups and stiff aromatic groups, and block combinations for Poly can enable development of hard and soft domains within the film formed of the binder polymer and pretreatment components.
  • the flexibility of long alkylenyl group and the rigidity of the aromatic groups, as well as the hydrogen bonding between intermolecular carboxyl groups with ester, amine, urethane and/or urethan groups act in part to promote soft and hard domains.
  • the presence of hard and soft domains at least in part contributes to the tensile strength and flexibility to the color coating.
  • the film forming composition further may comprise a catalyst to manage the rate of alkoxysilyl condensation to form Si-O-Si networks.
  • a catalyst to manage the rate of alkoxysilyl condensation to form Si-O-Si networks.
  • contact of the binder with water is sufficient to carry out the condensation.
  • water hydrolysis and condensation of alkoxysilyl groups under neutral conditions is extremely slow. See for example the discussion of alkoxysilane condensation in A Issa and A Luyt, Polymers , 2019, 11, 537 et seq.
  • Use of a catalyst to change the pH of the hydrolysis/condensation medium speeds the condensation and an acid medium is preferred.
  • Lewis acid agents such as organosulfate, organophosphate, organotitanium, organozirconium, organo aluminum, organozinc, boron halides, organoboron, mineral acids such as hydrochloric, sulfuric and nitric acids and organic acids such as acetic, oxalic and trifluoroacetic acids are useful for increasing the rate of hydrolysis/condensation.
  • Ammonia and organoamine compounds also are useful especially for the second phase of the process, condensation.
  • Choice of a catalyst may be managed by consideration of the cosmetically acceptable and pharmaceutically acceptable nature of the catalyst. For this reason, an excellent catalyst for this purpose, organotin compounds are not acceptable because of their toxicity.
  • a combination of an acidic agent such as an organophosphate, organotitanium or organoboronate agent followed by a basic wash with dilute ammonia or an organic amine affects an efficient, rapid condensation of the alkoxysilyl groups of the binder and its combination with the pretreatment composition.
  • Preferable acidic catalysts in this regard include bis(2-ethylhexyl) phosphate ester, titanium diisopropoxide bis(acetylacetonate), bis (2-ethylhexyl) sulfate ester, methyl sulfate ester, tri(pentafluorophenyl) boron or mono or di acetoboronate.
  • the significant remanence, wear-fastness and resistance to environmental attack of the color coating on keratin fibers may be developed through interaction between and among any one or more of the components of the film forming composition, the pre-treatment composition and the keratin fibers, preferably anagenic hair.
  • the interactions are complex and involve cooperation of binder and pretreatment small molecule components through covalent bonding, hydrogen bonding, dipolar interaction, and molecular entwining (entangling).
  • the interactions also are believed to involve at least in part covalent bonding and non-covalent interactions between and among the keratin fiber surfaces and the components of the pre-treatment composition and the components of the film forming composition.
  • Embodiments of the pre-treatment composition may comprise organosilicone small molecules that incorporate alkoxysilyl groups and optionally incorporate amine groups.
  • the organosilicone small molecules of the pre-treatment composition preferably have a weight average molecular weight of from about 100 Da to about 1 KDa.
  • Embodiments of the pretreatment compositions as small molecules comprise silicon cores of from 1 to 6 silicon atoms, preferable 1 to 3 silicon atoms, more preferably 1 or 2 silicon atoms and most preferably one silicone atom.
  • the small molecules comprise an organic core of 1 to 10 carbons, or a small number of repeat monomeric units.
  • the silicone and organic core small molecule embodiments of the pre-treatment composition may also comprise one or more organoamine groups and one or more alkoxysilyl groups.
  • the number of amine groups and alkoxy silyl groups present in the small molecule will depend upon the kinds of inter molecular connections desired for the pre-treatment composition.
  • the small molecule may contain at least one and preferably two organoamine groups for polar and/or ionic interaction with components of the film forming composition and the keratin protein.
  • the small molecule will also contain at least two and preferably at least three alkoxysilyl groups.
  • the alkoxysilyl groups may provide covalent silicon-oxygen-silicon or silicon-oxygen-carbon bond formation with the binder and with monomeric units of keratin protein which carry pendant hydroxyl groups, such as serine, threonine and tyrosine.
  • the alkoxysilyl groups may also interact with keratin amino acid moieties carrying carboxyl side chains, such as aspartic acid and glutamic acid.
  • the intermediate carboxylsilyl group may further combine with amine groups from any source to form amide linkages.
  • the alkoxysilyl groups may also interact with cysteine to form a thio analog silicon-sulfur-carbon bond formation or interact by dipolar and/or ionic interaction .
  • the small molecule embodiment of the pre-treatment composition may be conceptualized as Formula III:
  • Formula III incorporates several additional functional groups with the organosilyl small molecules having the alkoxysilyl functional group. Some of these are: a) organoamine groups, b) additional alkoxysilyl groups, mercapto groups, multialkyl amino groups, a,b unsaturated alkenoyloxy groups such as (meth)acryloyl, ureido, dithio, alkyl, aromatic and similar groups as described by A.
  • R groups and designators have the following definitions.
  • the R and R 14 groups are alkyl groups.
  • R provides the alkyl group of the alkoxysilyl group and may be methyl or ethyl.
  • R 14 is a C1-C6 alkylenyl group.
  • Group A may be a divalent group including dithio, diazo, urethanyl, ureido, or C1-C6 alkylenyl connecting left and right sections of the small molecule.
  • group A may be a terminal group including Cl -Cl 4 alkyl, C1X-C14X heteroalkyl with X as N, S or O either in chain or as a terminus such that this group may be co-aminoalkyl, co- mercaptoalkyl, co-hydroxyalkyl or the alkyl with N, S or O in the alkyl chain, C1-C6 alkoxy, C7-C14 arylalkyl, C6X-C14X heteroarylalkyl with X as N, S or O, C1-C6 alkylenyl (meth)acrylate or C1-C6 alkylureido.
  • Designators m and m’ may be an integer of 1 to 3.
  • Designators o, n, b, r, s, c, u may be zero or 1.
  • Designator a may be zero, 1 or 2.
  • Designator v may be zero, 1 or 2 such that when a is 2, v is 2 and when a is 1, v is 1 and when a is zero, v is 1 or zero.
  • Designator t may be 1 to 3.
  • Designators p and q independently may be zero or an integer of 1 to 6.
  • Designator t may be zero or an integer 1-3.
  • the designators m, o, n and m’ determine the size of the organoamine group and the number of secondary amines present.
  • the designator p determines the number of dimethylsiloxane units in the small molecule.
  • the designators q and s determine whether or not the small molecule has pendant alkoxysilyl groups (designator q) and/or has pendant organoamine groups (designator s).
  • the group A may or may not be present depending on whether c is 1 or zero.
  • Group A may be a divalent group including dithio, diazo, urethanyl, ureido, or C1-C6 alkylenyl connecting left and right sections of the small molecule.
  • group A may be a terminal group including Cl -Cl 4 alkyl, C1X-C14X heteroalkyl with X as N, S or O either in chain or as a terminus such that this group may be co-aminoalkyl, co-mercaptoalkyl, co-hydroxyalkyl or the alkyl with N, S or O in the alkyl chain, C1-C6 alkoxy, C7-C14 arylalkyl, C6X-C14X heteroaryl alkyl with X as N, S or O, C1-C6 alkylenyl(meth)acrylate or C1-C6 alkylureido when c is 1 and a, b, p, q and s are all zero.
  • u may be 1 and v is 1 so that the terminal A group is bound to a dimethylsiloxane chain terminated by an alkoxysiloxane group.
  • u may be zero so that the alkyl group, the alkoxy group, the arylalkyl group, the heteroaryl alkyl group, the alkylenyl group of alkylenyl(meth)acrylate or the alkyl group of alkylureido is bound to the silicon of the alkoxysiloxane terminus.
  • the small molecule has two aminoalkyl groups bonded to A as alkylenyl which in turn may be bonded to a dimethylsiloxane unit (u as 1) or to an alkoxysiloxane terminus (u as zero).
  • Exemplary embodiments of the small molecule component of the pre treatment composition include but are not limited to APTES, triethoxysilylamine, 1,1,1- triethoxy, 2,2-dimethyl-2-aminodisiloxane, aminoalkylmonoethoxydimethylsilane, aminoalkyldiethoxymethylsilane and aminoalkyltriethoxysilane with 1 to 6 carbons in each alkyl group, preferably 2 or 3 carbons.
  • Another exemplary embodiment is (Et0) 3 Si-0-(Me 2 Si0) n -SiMe 2 (CH 2 ) m NH 2 with n as 1 to 3 and m as 2 to 6, preferably 2 or 3.
  • Yet another exemplary embodiment is (Et0)3Si-0-(Me2Si0) n -(Si0Me2- t ((CH2) o NH2) q -SiMe2(CH2) m NH2 with n as 1 to 3, t as 1 or 2, o as 1 to 6 preferably 2 or 3, q as zero, 1 or 2 and m as 2 to 6, preferably 2 or 3.
  • An additional exemplary embodiment is (Et0) 3 Si-0-(Me 2 Si0) n -(Si0Me 2 - t ((CH 2 ) o NH 2 ) q -(CH 2 ) r -0-SiMe 2 (CH 2 ) m NH 2 with n as 1 to 3, t as 1 or 2, o as 1 to 6 preferably 2 or 3, q as zero, 1 or 2, r as 1-6, and m as 2 to 6, preferably 2 or 3.
  • This embodiment provides A as an alkylenyl group.
  • Preferred alkoxysilane small molecules of the pretreatment composition include: a) trimethoxysilyl propyldiethylene triamine (SCA); b) trimethoxysilyl propyl (meth)acrylate ester (MEMO); c) aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES); d) octyl triethoxysilane (OCTEO); e) propyltriethoxysilane (PTEO); f) ureidopropyl trimethoxysilane (EIREIDO); g) phenylsilane (PEIS); h) tetraethoxy silane (TEOS); i) 3-aminopropylsilyltriol j) 3 -mercaptopropyltri ethoxy or trimethoxy silane; k) 3-glycydyloxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GLYEO); l) N-(2-amino
  • a typical procedure for coloration of anagenic hair may involve application of a permanent oxidative dye formulation or may involve semi-permanent application of a direct dye or may involve temporary coloration that can be removed by a single mild shampoo washing.
  • These three techniques for hair coloration traditionally are applied to anagenic hair without a prior wash of the anagenic hair.
  • the presence of sebum, fatty acids (F layer), natural oils, sweat residue, mineral excretion from skin pores are traditionally regarded as helpful in the practice of these coloration techniques.
  • the anagenic hair also contains dirt particles, it is usually combed thoroughly to remove dirt debris but the natural oils, secreted minerals, sebum, fatty acids and the like remain.
  • treated and untreated tresses fundamentally differ in at least one respect from anagenic hair.
  • the treated and untreated tresses which are the typical universal substrate for keratin fiber experimentation are not connected to hair follicles and do not receive continuous secretions of sebum, natural oils and fatty acid as well as sweat and mineral secretions from adjacent skin pores.
  • This realization led to experimentation to improve remanence on anagenic hair by converting it to hair like that of treated and untreated tresses.
  • These attempts involved initial removal of sebum, natural oils, fatty acid secretions, sweat and mineral secretions by detergent washing as is usually performed on cut hair being prepared for treated tresses. These attempts also failed. Subsequent body secretions appurtenant to the hair on the scalp of hair models were found to continue circumvention of the remanence result experienced with treated and untreated tresses.
  • Substantially complete initial removal of sebum coating the surfaces of anagenic hair delivers a primed hair strand surface exposing the microscopic topographic variability provided by keratin protein at this surface.
  • a Praeparatur technique is applied.
  • the Praeparatur technique may be any priming operation that removes sebum from the surfaces of keratin fibers.
  • Exemplary Praeparatur techniques include use of one or more applications of a non-conditioning surfactant or substantially non conditioning surfactant which is free of conditioning actives or substantially free of conditioning additives such as silicones, e.g., amodimethicone, or cetrimonium chloride and polymers such as the polyquatemium versions of cellulose and guar gum derivatives.
  • This technique calls for one or more applications of the surfactant in an aqueous or aqueous- alcoholic medium with optional agents for ionicity and pH control in which the kinds and concentrations of components are adjusted to achieve the desired priming effect.
  • the technique involves use of a mild to moderate aqueous composition of an anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant at a concentration beginning at about 2 wt% and escalating to about 30 wt%, preferably up to about 25 wt%, more preferably up to about 10 wt% to about 25 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant composition may also include agents for adjustment of viscosity and ionicity and optional adjustment of pH from acidic to neutral to basic.
  • the surfactant composition may begin with a mild surfactant such as a non-ionic or its mixture with other surfactants and may escalate to higher concentrations of anionic surfactant.
  • a preferable surfactant is an anionic surfactant displaying amphiphilic properties such as an alkali metal salt of a C8-C16 alkyl carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, sulfate in which the strength of amphiphilic character increases from carboxylate to sulfate.
  • the initial nonionic surfactant used may be followed by a stronger anionic surfactant and then by a solubilizing anionic surfactant having either a PEG group such as PEG-2 to PEG-20, preferably PEG-2 to PEG-5 for increased hydrophicity or a PPG group such as PPG-2 to PPG-5 for increased lipophilicity inserted between the anionic head and the alkyl lipophilic tail of the anionic surfactant.
  • solubilizing media may be formulated by increasing the ionic strength and adjusting the pH.
  • Ionicity builders such as alkali metal sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, nitrates and/or xylene sulfonate may be added.
  • the nature of the medium may also be adjusted to provide organic solvents that are capable of solubilizing oils and sebum. Included are C2 to C8 alcohols, preferably isopropanol, isobutanol and neohexanol. This escalating priming treatment is designed to escalate in mild stepwise fashion so as to avoid overchallenge of the hair.
  • This escalating priming treatment may be coupled with mechanical agitation such as by a fine tooth comb and/or by a sound vibration such as with a ultrasound device operating at least at 20K Hertz.
  • the mechanical and/or sound vibration can agitate the anagenic hair strands to loosen coatings of sebum, natural oils and secreted sweat and minerals.
  • the ultrasound device may be designed as a fine tooth comb, the teeth of which vibrate to produce the ultrasound.
  • the ultrasound device may be a hand-held generator held in combination with a fine tooth comb which is run through the anagenic hair under the above described priming conditions.
  • the Praeparatur technique often will be sufficient to prime a fiber surface and allow adherence of the pretreatment small molecule with surface exposed protein.
  • application of the Praeparatur technique to anagenic hair may not fully prime the bare surface protein of keratin fibers.
  • application of the Fundamenta technique may accomplish deep cleaning of the keratin fibers such as anagenic hair.
  • the Fundamenta technique may be applied as a follow-on to use of the Praeparatur technique or applied without prior use of the Praeparatur technique or may be applied first with subsequent use of the Praeparatur technique.
  • the Fundamenta technique structurally deep cleans the surface topography and chemical make-up of the surfaces of keratin fibers and removes the F layer coating on the keratin fibers.
  • the technique also may but not necessarily adjust the topography of the fiber surfaces so as to enable better access of the pretreatment small molecules to the fiber surfaces. This technique may be accomplished by any deep cleaning operation that removes the F layer and deep cleans the keratin fiber surfaces.
  • Exemplary activities include use of one or more of cold plasma discharge, surface oxidizer/bleach treatment and/or an alkali phase transfer tenside (PETT) such as a multi-alkyl ammonium halide, examples of which are C26-C20 alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (CTAC) or bromide (CTAB) such as choline halide, cetyl trimethyl ammonium halide or stearyl trimethyl ammonium halide.
  • PETT alkali phase transfer tenside
  • CTCAC C26-C20 alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
  • CTAB bromide
  • the cold plasma treatment may be accomplished by passing partially ionized gas over anagenic hair or mimic tresses.
  • Cold plasma is a non-equilibrium atmospheric plasma of a gas such as air or oxygen and/or nitrogen having an effective gas temperature approximating ambient temperature while the electron temperature may be much higher.
  • the gas is passed between dielectric coated electrodes at a high AC voltage potential difference or through an RF field.
  • the electromagnetic field dislodges some electrons from the gas atoms to produce a cascade of ionization processes which lead to the cold plasma stream.
  • An example is an ozone generator which passes air through a high voltage spark discharge.
  • Cold plasma generators are commercial devices designed for production of ambient temperature (cold) plasma.
  • the plasma is transported through a flexible tube to a nozzle.
  • the nozzle through which the plasma stream flows may be passed over the keratin fibers to accomplish plasma treatment.
  • a typical treatment of a mimic hair tress involve passing the nozzle with flowing plasma over the keratin fibers for approximately 1 to 5 minutes, preferably about 1 to about 3 minutes.
  • phase transfer tenside treatment is accomplished by washing anagenic hair and/or mimic tresses with an aqueous solution of phase transfer tenside with an alkaline base or a nucleophile such as an alkoxide.
  • a phase transfer tenside (PETT) generically is a C2-C20 multi-alkyl ammonium halide such as choline or preferably a C12- C20 alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide, more preferably cetyl (Cl 6) and/or stearyl (C18) trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB).
  • the PETT may be formulated as a 0.1 wt% to 25 wt% aqueous solution.
  • An alkali or thiol aqueous solution (basic alkali pH >10, basic thiol pH>7) of the PETT may be applied to a mimic tress or anagenic hair and massaged through the hair strands either by hand or by brush for a period of 5 to 30 minutes, preferably 5 to 15 minutes to obtain PETT treatment. Thereafter, the tress or anagenic hair, which is substantially saturated with aqueous, basic PETT, is repeatedly rinsed with shampoo in acidic medium to remove the PETT solution.
  • the surface oxidizer treatment is accomplished by exposing anagenic har or mimic tresses to a dilute oxidizer solution.
  • the oxidizer solution may be formulated as an aqueous solution of a persulfate, hypochlorite, peroxide or ozone typically at a concentration of from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 2 wt%.
  • the oxidizer solution can be at an elevated pH, due to the presence of ammonia or MEA or sodium silicate or metasilicate.
  • the oxidizer solution is applied to a mimic tress or anagenic hair and massaged through the hair strands either by hand or by brush for a period of from 10 seconds to about 5 minutes, preferably about 10 seconds to about 1 to 2 minutes. Thereafter the tress or anagenic hair, which is substantially saturated with oxidizer solution, is repeatedly rinsed with water to remove the oxidizer solution.
  • the basic and/or nucleophilic medium for use with any of the Fundamenta treatment may be any that does not swell the hair strands but will dissolve the resulting free 18-methyleicosanoic acid (F-layer acid).
  • An example of such a medium is t-butoxide in t- butanol or an alkyl or aromatic thiol such as hexyl thiol or thiophenol in acetone.
  • the Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques enable intimate interaction of the pretreatment small molecule and the surfaces of anagenic hair strands.
  • the Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques prime and deep clean the hair strand surfaces to remove at least sebum and the F layer so that the small molecule is better able to adhere intimately with and within the peaks, shoulders, and valleys of the surfaces of the keratin fibers as well as with the microscopic topography involving the keratin protein in at the fiber surfaces. This ability of the small molecule is also related to its small size and reactive energy.
  • the presence of the sebum and fatty acid F layer surrounding the surfaces of keratin fibers of anagenic hair presents a surprising problem with respect to treated and untreated tresses.
  • the Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques practiced in combination with the application of the pretreatment composition with small molecules enable this intimate adherence with the microscopic topography of the protein at the surfaces of the keratin fibers.
  • the small molecule embodiments are readily able to self-condense to form polysiloxane three dimensional networks in intimate adherence with these keratinaceous surfaces. Subsequent covalent interactions between remaining reactive groups of the condensed small molecule embodiments and the binder component of the film forming composition are believed to extend the three dimensional network.
  • the media of the film forming composition and pre-treatment composition embodiments of the invention may be an organic compound that is capable of being intimately mixed or preferably forming a solution with a minor amount of water.
  • the preferred media comprise embodiments of alcoholic solvents such as an alkyl alcohol of 1 to 6 carbons with no intentionally added water. Included are methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol n-butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol and n- hexanol.
  • Preferred organic alcohols include ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, n-butanol and isobutanol and pentanol.
  • the alcoholic solvent may be intentionally combined with water in amounts up to about 10 weight percent, preferably up to about 5 weight percent, more preferably up to about 2 or 3 weight percent and most preferably less than about 1 weight percent relative to the total weight of the media. It is recognized that alcohol solvents absorb water from the atmosphere so that an alcoholic solvent with no intentionally added water may contain a slight amount of water.
  • the medium for the pretreatment composition may include a minor amount of acetic acid, such as from about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 1 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 0.5 wt% relative to the total weight of the medium.
  • acetic acid such as from about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt%, preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 1 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 0.5 wt% relative to the total weight of the medium.
  • a 90% - 95% aqueous medium with ethanol and acetic acid may be used for the pretreatment composition.
  • the presence of acetic acid facilitates hydrolysis of the alkoxysilyl groups to hydroxysilyl groups and renders the small molecule of the pretreatment composition more soluble in water.
  • the medium for the pretreatment composition may also include a balance among the amounts of alcohol, water and acetic acid present relative to the identity of the small molecule present. In some instances, the acid and/or water concentrations may be greater than in others. Determination of appropriate and/or optimum ratios of concentrations for the individual small molecule the choice and amount of medium and the presence and amount of acid or alkali are within the ordinary experimental ability and technique of the laboratory technician.
  • the binder and catalyst of the film forming composition and the pretreatment composition are maintained separately until use. Packaging each in separate containers serves this purpose.
  • Each of the binder, catalyst and small molecule of the pretreatment composition may be maintained in a medium that does not interact with the reactive groups.
  • Suitable media for the binder and linker are non-aqueous organic solvents such as but not limited to the alcohols mentioned above, preferably isopropanol and isobutanol or liquid hydrocarbon or silicone solvents.
  • the media for separately maintaining the binder, catalyst and small molecule should not include water or agents that would hydrolyze alkoxysilyl groups.
  • the binder, catalyst and small molecule preparations for storage may be formulated as ready to use concentrations or may be concentrates which are to be diluted with appropriate media to prepare them for use or may be ready to use concentrations for application to keratin fibers.
  • the film forming composition and the pretreatment composition are prepared for application to keratin fibers, they may be formulated with a single phase alcohol or alcohol medium as described above or may be formulated as a two phase aqueous medium with water or water-alcohol as the continuous phase and a water or water-alcohol immiscible organic liquid as the discontinuous phase.
  • the continuous phase may carry water soluble constituents while the discontinuous phase may carry constituents such as those of the film forming composition and the alkoxysilyl small molecule of the pretreatment composition that would react with water.
  • the discontinuous, non-aqueous phase will tend to isolate such compounds from degradation by water.
  • the film forming composition and pretreatment composition are maintained in a non-aqueous environment until they are ready for dressing on keratin fibers.
  • single phase or a two phase medium may be prepared as appropriate.
  • the polarity and protonic character of the medium are important for control of the several reactions that occur when the components of the film forming composition and pretreatment composition are combined. These reactions include the reactive termini/pendant alkoxysilyl groups which undergo alkoxysilyl condensation to form silyloxysilyl linkages.
  • the medium for application of the film forming composition and the pre-treatment composition is polar and can support the condensation and addition reactions.
  • isopropanol or isobutanol with a minor amount of water as described above is appropriate.
  • the application media may be combined with the separately stored concentrates of binder, catalyst and small molecule and the media of the stored concentrates preferably will be at least partially to substantially miscible with the application media.
  • the medium may be independently present in each of the film forming composition and the pretreatment composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 99% by weight, such as from about 1% to about 98% by weight, for example ranging from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of which of the film forming composition and pretreatment composition is under consideration.
  • the viscosities of the film forming composition and pretreatment composition function to hold them in place on the keratin fibers while the color coating is formed.
  • the viscosity substantially avoids free translational flow of these compositions. Free translation flow would cause the compositions to rapidly run and drip off the surfaces of the hair strands. Nevertheless, the viscosity is not so high that it will not undergo self-leveling to substantially uniformly coat the keratin fibers.
  • Appropriate viscosity of the compositions is the result of the interaction of the various constituents of the film forming and pretreatment compositions, their concentrations, the pigment microparticles, and as appropriate, an optional viscosity control agent, an optional suspending agent and an optional thickening agent.
  • the viscosity of the film forming and pretreatment compositions may range from about 0.001 to about 2000 Pa s 1 .
  • Viscosity measurements are carried out on a controlled stress rheometer e.g. Using an AR2000 type manufactured by TA Instruments, or equivalent instrument.
  • a 6 cm flat acrylic cross hatched parallel plate geometry (TA item 518600.901) and a stainless steel cross hatched base plate (TA item 570011.001) are used.
  • the rheometer is prepared for flow measurements as per standard manufacturer procedure.
  • the parallel plate geometry gap is set to 1000 microns.
  • the flow procedure is programmed to the rheometer with the following conditions: continuous stress ramp 0.1-300 Pa over 2 minutes at 25° C., including 250 measurement points in linear mode.
  • Shear stress value at 10 sec 1 shear rate is obtained from the shear stress vs. shear rate curve, and the corresponding viscosity is calculated by dividing the obtained shear stress by 10.
  • the concentration of the binder polymer constituent of Formula IA and/or Formula IB in the film forming composition and the concentration of the alkoxysilyl small molecule constituent in the pretreatment composition may each independently range from about 0.1% to about 90%, preferably about 1% to about 40%, more preferably about 2% to about 30%, most preferably about 2 % to about 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the viscosity is managed so that the film forming and pretreatment compositions will not run off the surfaces of strands of hair yet will level and flow to substantially coat those surfaces.
  • the film forming and pretreatment compositions can be applied simultaneously, sequentially or in pre-combined form to keratin fibers such as a hair tress using the coloring procedure described herein afterwards.
  • the top of the hair strand, where it is glued together is fixed such that the hair is aligned vertically downwards. After a 5 minute dwell time it is observed if any and how much product has dripped from the hair tress.
  • the results obtained from the several samples can be plotted against flow time and leveling time to determine an appropriate concentration or range of concentrations of the constituents of the film forming and pretreatment compositions.
  • the extent of in situ alkoxysilyl linking between and among the reactive constituents of the film forming and pretreatment compositions may be controlled by manipulation of ratios, amounts present and concentrations as well as by physical means as described above so that the mechanical and chemical properties of the color coating as described herein are preserved. These properties include ability to adhere to hair strands, ability to maintain flexibility and free flowing character of the hair, ability to provide remanence, avoidance of stickiness and avoidance of clumping.
  • the glass transition temperatures of the binder polymer of the film forming composition and the polymerized alkoxysilyl small molecule of the pretreatment composition in part contribute to the flexibility, strength, hardness and similar qualities of the color coating on the keratin fiber surfaces.
  • the glass transition temperatures of these embodiments preferably are well below ordinary minimum environmental temperatures such as -100°C to - 30°C.
  • the glass transition temperature or T g determines the solid-solid transition of the polymer from a hard glassy material to a soft rubbery material.
  • the soft, rubbery, elastic state is the state to be achieved.
  • the coating should be soft, flexible, elastic and unnoticeable to touch and sight yet should not flake, break-up or otherwise release from the keratin fiber, and especially from anagenic hair, when stroked by a hand or brushed with a brush.
  • the Tg of a color coating can be measured using ASTM D7426 - 08 (2008).
  • one or more plasticizers can be combined with the constituents of the film forming and pretreatment composition embodiments so as to lower the T g of the constituents and provide the appropriate feel and visual properties to the color coating.
  • the plasticizer can be incorporated directly into one or both of the film forming and pretreatment compositions or can be applied to the hair following formation on the keratin fibers of the color composition of the combined film forming and pretreatment compositions but substantially curing the color composition to form the color coating on the keratin fibers.
  • the plasticizer can be chosen from the plasticizers typically used in the field of application. Appropriate selection includes choice of a plasticizer that does not interfere with or compete with the alkoxysilyl condensation.
  • the plasticizer or plasticizers can have a molecular mass of less than or equal to 5,000 g/mol, such as less than or equal to 2,000 g/mol, for example less than or equal to 1,000 g/mol, such as less than or equal to 900 g/mol. In at least one embodiment, the plasticizer, for example, has a molecular mass of greater than or equal to 40 g/mol.
  • the film forming and pretreatment compositions can also comprise at least one plasticizer.
  • plasticizers such as: glycols and derivatives thereof, silicones, silicone polyethers, polyesterpolyols; adipic acid esters (such as diisodecyladipate), trimellitic acid esters, sebacic acid esters, azalaeic acid esters; nonlimiting examples of glycol derivatives are diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether, or ethylene glycol hexyl ether; polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol copolymers, and mixtures thereof, such as high molecular weight polypropylene glycols, for
  • Such compounds are sold by Dow Chemical under the names DOWANOL PPH and DOWANOL DPnB; acid esters, for example esters of carboxylic acids, such as triacids, citrates, phthalates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates, and sebacates; esters derived from the reaction of a monocarboxylic acid of formula RnCOOH with a diol of formula HOR12OH in which Rn and R12, which can be identical or different, are chosen from a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated, or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing, for example, from 3 to 15 carbon atoms for example the monoesters resulting from the reaction of isobutyric acid and octanediol such as 2,2,4-trimethyl-l,3-pentanediol, such as the product sold under the reference TEXANOL ESTER ALCOHOL by the company Eastman Chemical; oxyethylenated derivatives, such as
  • esters of tricarboxylic acids mention can be made of the esters of triacids wherein the triacid corresponds to formula [00155] wherein R is a group -H, -OH or -OCOR wherein R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • R can be a group -OCOCH3.
  • the esterifying alcohol for such tricarboxylic acids may be those described above for the monocarboxylic acid esters.
  • the plasticizer can be present in either or both of the film forming and pretreatment compositions in an amount from about 0.01% to 20%.
  • the film forming and pretreatment composition embodiments of the present invention make it possible to obtain colored coatings, without substantially altering the keratin fibers.
  • the terms “pigment(s) and color body(ies)” are synonyms and generally refer to any particle colorant or amorphous insoluble color material/body having or containing pigment material that gives keratin fibers color including black and white, such as titanium dioxide that gives only white color to keratin fibers.
  • the pigments are substantially water-insoluble.
  • the pigments, to distinguish from dyes presented in molecular from, are also referred to as pigment microparticles or pigment particles.
  • the terms pigment microparticles and pigment particles are synonymous and are used herein interchangeably.
  • the pigments can be organic, inorganic, or a combination of both.
  • the pigments may be in pure form or coated, for example with a polymer or a dispersant.
  • pigment microparticles as described in the following passages can be incorporated in any of the first, second and third components of the multicomponent composition, or can be incorporated in any two of these components or in all three.
  • pigment microparticles can be incorporated in either or both of the first and second components. More preferably, pigment particles can be incorporated in the first component.
  • the at least one pigment that can be used can be chosen from the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, such as those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
  • the pigments comprised in the microparticles comprising at least one pigment will not substantially diffuse or dissolve into keratin fibers. Instead, the pigment comprised in the microparticles comprising at least one pigment will substantially remain separate from but attached to the keratin fibers.
  • the at least one pigment can be in the form of powder or of pigmentary paste. It can be coated or uncoated.
  • the at least one pigment can be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, elemental metal and their oxides, and other metal modifications, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigment microparticles can have any suitable shape, including substantially spherical. But the pigment microparticles can also be oval, elliptical, tubular, irregular, etc., or even combinations of various shapes. In addition, the pigment microparticles can have two dimensions, length and width/diameter, of similar magnitude. In addition, the pigment microparticles can be micro platelets, i.e. having a thickness that is substantially smaller than the planar dimension. For example, five, ten or even 20 times smaller in thickness than in the planer dimension. In one embodiment with any of the reactive components of the instant invention, the pigments may be surface treated, surface coated or encapsulated.
  • the pigments can be present in the composition in undissolved form. Depending on the shape, the pigments can have a D50[vol] particle diameter of from 0.001 micron to 1 micron.
  • the particle size distribution, either relative to the number or volume of the particles, of the pigment microparticles can be at least bi-modal.
  • a bi-modal particle size distribution has two distinct peaks which are spaced relative from, while tri-modal particle size distribution has three distinct peaks.
  • the term “peak” means a local maximum of the distribution curve.
  • the “distance” between two peaks, expressed relative to the particle size can be at least 0.05 micron, preferably at least 0.1 micron, such as at least 0.2 micron.
  • Providing an at least bi-modal particle size distribution allows to tailor the optical appearance of the colored hair. For example, the scattering properties varies with the particle size so that particles of different size scatter the light into different directions.
  • Such pigment microparticles can be platelets, e.g., having a thickness that is substantially smaller than the planar dimension. For example, about five, about 10 or even about 400 times smaller in thickness than in the planer.
  • Such platelets can have a planar dimension less than about 30 nm, but with a thickness less than about 10 micron wide. This includes a ratio of 10000 to 30, or 333. Platelets larger in size, such as 50 microns are even available in this thickness of 10 microns, and so the ratios can even go up to 2000.
  • the pigment microparticles can be a composite formed by two different types of pigment microparticles. Examples include a composite of a 2-dimensional microparticle and at least one micro spherical particle (microsphere), a composite of different micro spherical particles, and a composite of different 2-dimensional particles. Composite particles formed by 2-dimensional microparticles to which micro spherical particles adhere provide an attractive alternative to a pure mixture of 2-dimensional microparticles and micro spherical particles.
  • a metallic 2-dimensional microparticle can carry one or more micro spherical particle such as one or more organic micro spherical particle.
  • the micro spherical particles attached or bonded to the 2-dimensional microparticle can be formed of the same pigment material or can be formed of different pigment material.
  • Composite microparticles formed of 2-dimensional microparticles and micro spherical particles can provide multiple functionality in one particle such as (metallic) reflectance and dielectric scattering, reflectance and absorption.
  • the pigment microparticles can be both light scattering and absorbing for wavelengths of visible light. While not wishing to bound by any specific theory, it is believed that such pigments can provide both some visual effect of lightening the hair.
  • Such pigment microparticles can have a D50[num] value between about 50 nm and about 750 nm, between about 100 nm and about 500 nm or between about 150 nm and about 400 nm.
  • Such materials have a refractive index above about 1.5, above about 1.7 or above about 2.0.
  • different pigment microparticles are combined to provide reflective, transmitting and refractive properties of the hair colored with the color composition described herein.
  • a microparticle combination can be a material composite using at least two different pigment materials to form the pigment microparticles.
  • a mixture of separate pigment microparticles of different type can be used to bring about the desired reflective, transmitting and refractive properties.
  • the composite pigments, combination of pigments, and mixtures of pigment microparticles eliminate, or at least significantly reduce, hair penetration and scattering by light and thus eliminate the perception of pigment of natural hair color change.
  • the film forming composition for coloring hair fibers according to the present disclosure comprises microparticles comprising at least one pigment.
  • the film forming composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 40%, about 0.05% to about 35%, about 0.1 to about 25%, or about 0.15% and about 20% pigment(s), by weight of the film forming composition.
  • the material of the pigment microparticles can be inorganic or organic. Inorganic-organic mixed pigments are also possible.
  • inorganic pigment(s) may be used.
  • the advantage of inorganic pigment(s) is their excellent resistance to light, weather, and temperature.
  • the inorganic pigment(s) can be of natural origin, and are, for example, derived from material selected from the group consisting of chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, and graphite.
  • the pigment(s) can preferably be white pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
  • the pigment(s) can also be colored pigments, such as, for example, ultramarine or iron oxide red, luster pigments, metal effect pigments, pearlescent pigments, and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.
  • the pigment(s) can be selected from the group consisting of metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates, alloys, and the metals themselves.
  • the pigment(s) can be selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), Prussian blue (ferric ferrocyanide, Cl 77510), carmine (cochineal), zinc sulfide, barium sulfate, zinc oxide, derivatized titanium dioxide, derivatized zinc sulfide, derivatized zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigment(s) can be selected from the group consisting of iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, borosilicate, and combinations thereof.
  • the pigment(s) can comprise an iron oxide (FeiCh) pigment.
  • the pigment(s) can comprise a combination of mica and titanium dioxide.
  • the pigment(s) can be pearlescent and colored pigment(s), and can preferably be based on mica which are coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, and optionally further color-imparting substances, such as iron oxides, Prussian blue, ultramarine, and carmine. The color exhibited by a pigment can be adjusted by varying the layer thickness.
  • Such pigments are sold, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona®, RonaFlair®, Ronastar®, Xirona® and Timiron® all of which are available from Merck, Darmstadt, Germany.
  • Xirona® is a brand for color travel pigments that display color shifting effects depending on the viewing angle and are based on either natural mica, SiCk or calcium aluminum borosilicate flakes, coated with varying layers of TiCk.
  • Pigment(s) from the line KTZ® from Kobo Products, Inc., 3474 So. Clinton Ave., So. Plainfield, USA, are also useful herein, in particular the Surface Treatable KTZ® Pearlescent Pigments from Kobo.
  • KTZ® FINE WHITE mica and Ti02 having a D50 particle diameter of 5 to 25 micron and also KTZ® CELESTIAL LUSTER (mica and Ti02, 10 to 60 micron) as well as KTZ® CLASSIC WHITE (mica and Ti02, 10 to 60 micron).
  • SynCrystal Sapphire from Eckart Effect Pigments, which is a blue powder comprising platelets of synthetic fluorphlogopite coated with titanium dioxide, ferric ferrocyanide and small amounts of tin oxide.
  • SYNCRYSTAL Almond also from Eckart, which is a beige powder with a copper reflection color and is composed of platelets of synthetic fluorphlogopite and coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides.
  • Duocrome® RV 524C from BASF, which provides a two color look via a lustrous red powder with a violet reflection powder due to its composition of mica, titanium dioxide and carmine.
  • the colored pigment(s) can be lightly bright colored pigment(s) and can particularly be white color variations.
  • the pigment(s) can be organic pigments.
  • the at least one pigment can be an organic pigment.
  • organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the at least one organic pigment can be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, 7-Bis(l,3-dichloropropan-2-yl)benzo[lmn][3,8]phenanthrolin- l,3,6,8(2H,7H)-tetraon, copper hexadecachlorophthalocyanine, 2-[(2-Methoxy-4- nitrophenyl)azo]-N-(2-methoxyphenyl)-3-oxobutyramide, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, dimethylquinacridone and quinophthalone compounds, Azo-dyes, Nonionic azo dyes, Anionic Azo dyes, Cationic
  • the organic pigment(s) can be selected from the group consisting of natural pigments sepia, gamboge, bone charcoal, Cassel brown, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments.
  • the synthetic organic pigments can be selected from the group consisting of azo pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene and perinone, metal complex, alkali blue, diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments, and combinations thereof.
  • a particularly preferred pigment is 7-Bis(l,3-dichloropropan-2- yl)benzo[lmn][3,8]phenanthrolin-l,3,6,8(2H,7H)-tetraon.
  • the pigment(s) used in the color composition can include at least two different pigments selected from the above pigment group or can include at least three different pigments selected from the above pigment group.
  • the pigment(s) used in the color composition can include at least one yellow pigment selected from the yellow pigment group consisting of: a Pigment Yellow 83 (Cl 21108), CAS# 5567- 15-7, Pigment Yellow 155 (C.I. 200310), (CAS: 68516-73-4), Pigment Yellow 180 (C.I. 21290), (CAS: 77804-81-0).
  • the pigments(s) used in the color composition can include at least one red pigment selected from the red pigment group consisting of: Pigment Red 5 (Cl 12490), (CAS# 6410-41-9), Pigment Red 112 (Cl 12370), (CAS# 6535-46-2), Pigment Red 122 (Cl 73915), (CAS# 980-26-7).
  • the pigments(s) used in the color composition can include at least one green pigment selected from the green pigment group consisting of: Pigment Green 36, (C.I. 74265), (CAS: 14302-13-7).
  • the pigments(s) used in the color composition can include at least one blue pigment selected from the blue pigment group consisting of: Pigment Blue 16, (CAS: 424827-05-4), Pigment Blue 60 (C.I. 69800), (CAS: 81-77-6), Pigment Blue 66, (C.I. 73000), (CAS: 482-89-3).
  • the pigments(s) used in the color composition can include at least one black pigment selected from the black pigment group consisting of: Pigment Black 6 (C.I. 77266), (CAS 1333-86-4), Pigment Black 7 (C.I. 77266), (CAS 1333-86-4).
  • An additional combination can include aluminium flake with a red, blue, green, yellow or any combination thereof.
  • the pigment(s) can optionally have a surface zeta potential of > ⁇ 15 Mv, preferably > ⁇ 20 Mv, more preferably > ⁇ 25 Mv.
  • the surface zeta potential can be measured with a zetasizer, for example, a Zetasizer 3000 HS. Surface zeta potential measurements are conducted, for example, according to ISO 13099.
  • the white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, 52erivatized52ne blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21090, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 and 77492.
  • Non-limiting examples that can also be mentioned include pigmentary pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names: JAUNE COSMENYL IOG: Pigment Yellow 3 (Cl 11710); JAUNE COSMENYL G:
  • Pigment Yellow 1 (Cl 11680); ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment Orange 43 (Cl 71105); ROUGE COSMENYL R: Pigment Red 4 (Cl 12085); CARMINE COSMENYL FB: Pigment Red 5 (Cl 12490); VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment Violet 23 (Cl 51319); BLEU COSMENYL A2R: Pigment Blue 15.1 (Cl 74160); VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment Green 7 (Cl 74260); and NOIR COSMENYL R: Pigment Black 7 (Cl 77266).
  • the at least one pigment in accordance with the present disclosure can also be in the form of at least one composite pigment as described in European Patent Publication No. EP 1 184426 A2.
  • These composite pigments can be, for example, compounds of particles comprising a mineral core, at least one binder for ensuring the binding of the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
  • the at least one pigment in accordance with the present disclosure can be in the form of small undissolved microparticles, which do not diffuse into the hair color, but deposit on the outer wall of the keratin fiber.
  • Suitable color pigments can be of organic and/or inorganic origin. But the pigments can also be inorganic color pigments, given the excellent light, weather and/or temperature resistance thereof.
  • Inorganic pigments whether natural or synthetic in origin, include those produced from chalk, red ocher, umbra, green earth, burnt sienna or graphite, for example. Furthermore, it is possible to use black pigments, such as iron oxide black, color pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments as inorganic color pigments.
  • Colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides and metal oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfurous silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and/or metal molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, Cl 77510) and/or carmine (cochineal).
  • the at least one pigment can also be colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually mica-based and can be coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and/or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide,
  • Mica forms part of the phyllosilicates, including muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite.
  • the mica primarily muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • the at least one pigment can also be at least one mica-based colored pigment, which is coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and/or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and/or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, Cl 77510).
  • the at least one pigment can also be color pigments commercially available, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors, and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
  • the at least one pigment can also be color pigments bearing the trade name Colorona® are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES); Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, Cl 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina; Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES), Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE); Colorona RY, Merck, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, Cl 75470 (CARMINE); Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES); Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE; Colorona Chameleon, Merck, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA; Colorona Abrare Amber, Merck, MICA
  • D&C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42053), and D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42090).
  • a non limiting example of a lake that can be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1).
  • CIE L*a*b* (CIELAB) is a color space specified by the International Commission on Illumination. It describes all the colors visible to the human eye and serves as a device-independent model to be used as a reference.
  • L*a*b* model is a three-dimensional model, it can be represented properly only in a three-dimensional space.
  • Two-dimensional depictions include chromaticity diagrams: sections of the color solid with a fixed lightness.
  • CIELAB is a chromatic value color space.
  • the color gamut is determined by preparing samples of the film forming composition without pigment and the adding each pigment to be tested to individual samples of the film forming composition. Samples with pigment are prepared and applied to tress substrates. The samples are cured and then tested for coloration so that the resulting CIELAB lightness or L* value of the colored hair is 60 ⁇ 2. The level of pigment needed will depend on the pigment being tested. For example, hair tresses (Kerling, Natural White special quality) can be prepared as described using samples of a film forming composition applied alone as described in the present invention.
  • a Minolta spectrophotometer CM-2600d can be used to measure the color of the cured and dried hair tresses, five points on both the front and back sides, and the values averaged.
  • the D65 L*a*b values can be calculated.
  • the color gamut can be calculated.
  • First the lengths of each side of the resulting triangle of each combination of three pigments in the a*b plane are computed using the following expressions. To calculate the distance between pigments 1 and pigment 2 the following equation is used:
  • the color coating embodiments of the present invention can also have a color gamut of greater than 250, greater than 500, greater than 750, greater than 800, greater than 900, greater than 1100 or even greater than 1250.
  • Figures 1 to 6 show plots of color gamut triangles created for a series of three pigment selections.
  • Figure 1 shows that a combination of Pigment Green 36, Pigment Yellow 83 and Pigment Red 122 a large triangle is plotted in the a*b* color plane with an area of 1520.
  • Figure 2 shows that the combination of Pigment Green 36, Pigment Yellow 83 and Pigment Blue 60 gives a smaller triangle win an area of 925.
  • Figure 3 shows the combination of Pigment Black 7, Pigment Yellow 83 and Pigment Red 122 gives a smaller triangle win an area of 655.
  • Figure 4 shows the combination of Pigment Black 7, Pigment Blue 60 and Pigment Red 122 gives a smaller triangle win an area of 92.
  • a second series of example are made for how to assess more than three pigments and their resulting color gamut.
  • a series of triangles can be plotted as shown and for each the areas is assessed.
  • the color gamut is defined as the largest of the triangles formed.
  • Figure 5 shows a combination of Pigment Green 36, Pigment Yellow 83, Pigment Blue 60 and Pigment Red 122 a series of triangles are plotted with areas of 803, 925, 209 and 1520.
  • the color gamut of this pigment composition is 1520. [Alterative calculation of total area would yield, 1728]
  • Figure 6 shows a combination of Pigment Black 7, Pigment Yellow 83, Pigment Blue 60 and Pigment Red 122 a series of triangles are plotted with areas of 803, 57, 92 and 655.
  • the color gamut of the pigment composition is 803 [alternative approach would be the same]
  • a color composition e.g., a set of a film forming composition and a pretreatment composition applied sequentially, simultaneously or in premixture to keratin fibers
  • a color composition can be applied to the hair in a sequential manner.
  • this first set is applied to the hair which contains pigment microparticles that substantially scatter and/or reflect light such that it produces the visual effect of making the hair look lighter in color
  • a second set can be applied which contains pigment microparticles that substantially absorbs light and provides color to the hair and wherein the combination of the sequential addition of the first and second sets of color compositions provides the final hair color.
  • a first color composition may comprise metallic flakes and the second color composition may contain organic pigment microparticles. It may also be that more than a first and a second color composition are applied to the hair to achieve the desired color result, that three or more color compositions are applied.
  • the film forming and pretreatment composition embodiments in accordance with the present invention may have a pH adjustment attendant with their application to keratin fibers so that the pH upon application may range from about 4 to about 10, preferably about 5 to about 9.
  • the pH is preferably dynamically managed to control the rate of reaction of the reactive constituents of the film forming and pretreatment compositions. Maintaining a slightly basic pH during the mixing and preapplication stages involving these compositions controls the alkoxysilyl condensation under certain circumstances. The condensation may be initiated by reversion to an acidic pH to an appropriate state for reaction.
  • dispersant can help to maximize performance in terms of maximizing the amount of color produced from an immobilized film, maximizing the remanence or wash fastness, and enabling removal of the color.
  • the electrostatic, ionic and functional character of the dispersant is chosen to be compatible with and to not interfere with the reactive constituents of the film forming and pretreatment compositions. More preferably, the dispersant is chosen to be compatible with and miscible with the other components of the composition or compositions with and without medium.
  • dispersant(s) As well as compatibility as noted above, the other criterion in selecting dispersant(s) is their ability to enable pigment to be dispersed down to the primary particle size, preferably with the minimum amount of input mechanical energy. It will be recognized by someone skilled in the art that the concentration of dispersing agent is also a factor. In general, it is usually required that there is a minimum amount for dispersing activity and that below this, the composition is either not fully dispersed or the dispersant acts as a flocculant. [00211] These two considerations together are used to define preferred materials and their respective concentrations.
  • binder polymer it may also be the case, depending on the type of binder polymer used, that the binder itself is also a dispersant. In such cases it is possible that no further dispersing additive may be needed.
  • Combination of the dispersed pigment mixture with the film forming composition can be made in any manner. This order of combination of the dispersed pigment mixture with the film forming composition delivers the dispersed pigment mixture with the film forming composition layer and on top of the pretreatment layer. While the layers intermix to a slight to moderate to essentially full extent, at least a portion of the dispersed pigment mixture resides over the pretreatment layer. This arrangement of the coating at least in part enables removal of the coating when the “off’ techniques described below are practiced.
  • Dispersants are amphiphilic or amphiphathic meaning that they are chemical compounds possessing both hydrophilic (water-loving, polar) and lipophilic (fat-loving) properties. Dispersants are surface-active polymers that allow the homogeneous distribution and stabilization of solids, e.g. pigments in a liquid medium, by lowering the interfacial tension between the two components. As a result, agglomerates are broken up into primary particles and protected by a protecting dispersant envelope of a re-agglomeration. [00215] The dispersants can be subdivided on the basis of the stabilization mechanism in
  • dispersants for electrostatic stabilization a. Anionic dispersing additives i. Polyacrylates ii. Polyphosphates b. Neutral dispersing additives, e.g, nonionic surfactants c. Cationic dispersing additives, e.g., quaternary ammonium organic and/or silicone polymers
  • the pigment surface is occupied by an additive carrying an ionic charge. All pigment particles are charged the same. The mutual repulsion by the charge is greater than the attractions of the pigment particles.
  • the electrostatic stabilization has its relevance mostly in water-based paint compositions.
  • Polyanionic dispersing additives polycarboxylates (mostly salts of polyacrylic acids), polyphosphates divided into linear polyphosphates and cyclic metaphosphates, polyacrylates
  • the attractive forces between the pigment particles are effective only over relatively small distances of the particles from each other.
  • the approach of two particles to each other can be prevented by molecules that are firmly anchored to the pigment surface and carry groups that extend from the surface and may reduce the potential for the pigments to contact one another. By sufficiently long chain lengths, agglomeration can be prevented.
  • the substances added to avoid agglomeration and other undesirable pigment particle interactions preferably are chosen to minimize or avoid interaction with the reactive polymers of the color composition.
  • the pigments described herein can be chosen and/or modified to be similar enough such that a single dispersant can be used. In other instances, where the pigments are different, but compatible, two or more different dispersants can be used. Because of the extreme small size of the pigment microparticles and their affinity, combination of the pigment microparticles and dispersant to form a substantially homogeneous dispersion that can subsequently be modified and/or diluted as desired is to be accomplished before combination with any or all of the film forming composition.
  • the pigment microparticles can be dispersed and stabilized in the medium by one or more dispersants the properties and kinds of which are described above.
  • the dispersant can either be added to the medium, or to a precursor medium or can form a coating on the microparticles to facilitate dispersion. It is also possible to provide the microparticles with a coating of a dispersant material and additionally provide a further dispersant to the medium, or to a precursor medium, which is used to form the final medium.
  • the dispersant either added to the medium or provided as coating, facilitates wetting of the microparticles, dispersing of the microparticles in the medium, and stabilizing of the microparticles in the medium.
  • the wetting includes replacing of materials, such as air, adsorbed on the surface of the pigment microparticles and inside of agglomerates of the microparticles by the medium.
  • materials such as air
  • a complete wetting of the individual microparticles is desired to singularize the particles and to break off agglomerates formed by microparticles adhering to each other.
  • the microparticles can be subjected to de-aggregate and de agglomerate step, generally referred to as dispersing step.
  • the dispersing step typically includes the impact of mechanical forces such as shear to singularize the microparticles.
  • the microparticles can be broken into even smaller microparticles using, for example, roller mills, high speed mixers, and bead mills.
  • Usual practice involves substantially homogeneous dispersion of the pigments in dispersant through the use of high shear mixing; for example, through use to the appropriate ball mill, ultra high- pressure homogenizer or other composition known by those skilled in the art of pigment dispersion.
  • the exposed total surface area of the microparticles increases which is wetted by the dispersant.
  • the amount of the dispersant may be gradually increased during dispersing to account for the increased surface area.
  • the dispersant also functions as de-flocculation agent keeping the dispersed microparticles in a dispersed state and prevent that they flocculate to form loose aggregates. This stabilization is also needed for long term storage purposes. Different type of stabilization such as electrostatic stabilization and steric stabilization are possible, and the type of dispersant is selected in view of the medium and the material of the microparticles.
  • the dispersant may be added to a dry powder of the pigment particles when the particles are milled to a desired size. During milling, or any other suitable technique to singularize the pigment particles or to break them into smaller part, the dispersant comes in contact with and adheres to the surface of the microparticles. Freshly generated microparticle surface during milling will be coated by the dispersant so that, after milling, the microparticles with a coating formed by the dispersant are provided.
  • the coating with the dispersant can also be carried out in a liquid carrier medium to which the dispersant is added.
  • the microparticles can also be milled in the liquid carrier.
  • the pigment microparticles may be coated with small molecules from a pretreatment composition.
  • a portion of the pretreatment composition may be combined with the pre-milled pigment particles according to the procedures described above for wetting and dispersing the microparticles with dispersant.
  • the processed microparticles may be separated from excess pretreatment composition to produce microparticles coated with small molecules. It is believed that during this procedure, the coating of small molecules will begin to condense so that the coating will be at least a partially condensed net of silicone coating the individual microparticles.
  • the coated microparticles may then be wetted and dispersed in dispersant as described above for the wetting and dispersing procedures.
  • Additive components for the film forming composition include suspending agents, leveling agents and viscosity control agents.
  • the suspending agents help maintain the pigment particles in dispersed condition and minimize or negate their agglomeration.
  • Suspending agents include fatty acid esters of polyols such as polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol. These are similar to plasticizers and function in similar fashion to allow pigment particles to “slip” by each other without retarding or binding interaction. They act as grease in this fashion. Additionally, suspending agents in part participate in promoting the stable dispersion of the pigment particles and avoid settling.
  • the polymers of the film forming composition also participate through their solubilization or interaction with the pigment particles and with the medium.
  • the suspending agents provide another factor for maintaining the stable dispersion. They not only provide the “grease” to facilitate Brownian movement but also in part stabilize through interaction as emulsifiers of the pigment particles in the medium. Optional components also are to be chosen so that they do not interfere or only minimally interfere with the reactive polymer coupling reaction.
  • Embodiments of the film forming composition embodiments in accordance with the present invention can also optionally contain at least one adjuvant, chosen, for example, from reducing agents, fatty substances, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV- screening agents, mineral colloids, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, propellants, oxy ethyl enated or non- oxyethylenated waxes, paraffins, C10-C30 fatty acids such as stearic acid or lauric acid, and C10-C30 fatty amides such as lauric di ethanol amide.
  • at least one adjuvant chosen, for example, from reducing agents, fatty substances, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV- screening agents, mineral colloids, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic,
  • Embodiments of the film forming composition in accordance with the present invention can further optionally contain one or more additives, including, but not limited to, antioxidants (e.g., phenolics, secondary amines, phosphites, thioesters, and combinations thereof), non-reactive diluents (e.g., ethylene glycol, di (ethylene glycol), tetra(ethylene glycol), glycerol, 1,5-pentanediol, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-ethoxyethanol, solketal, benzonitrile, hexamethylphosphoramide, 2-N-methylpyrrolidinone and N,N-dimethylformamide); dyes, fillers (e.g., silica; carbon black; clay; titanium dioxide; silicates of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, sodium, potassium and mixtures thereof; carbonates of calcium, magnesium and mixtures thereof; oxides of silicon,
  • An additional additive may be a tactile hair modification agent. These may include, but are not limited to, a softening and/or lubricating and/or anti-static and/or hair alignment and/or anti-frizz benefit and/or impact on the keratin fibers.
  • Additional additives include filler materials such as but not limited to no chromatic material with a particle size of from about 2 nm to about 500 nm; macromolecular strands or nanoparticles composed of polyolefin such as polyethylene, polypropylene, polybutene, and combinations thereof, clays and mineralite substances such as but not limited to smectites, kaolins, illites, chlorites, attapulgites and intercalated aluminosilicate materials and purified formed thereof and combinations thereof.
  • Additional mineral microparticles may be composed of inorganic metal oxides selected from the group consisting of silica, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, boehmite alumina, hydrotalcite.
  • Still other filler material includes but is not limited to carbon nanotubes micrographitic material such as nanofiller of graphite oxide mixed polymer, microbucky balls, clathrates, and crown composites of organic and mineral complexes. Additionally, the filler may be combined, complexed, contain or incorporate a polymer containing one of the members of a complementary reactive pair relating to the first and second components of the reactive polymer composition.
  • Additives may also include but are not limited to UV filter and UV block substances such as but not limited to avobenzone, bemotrizinol octocrylene, benzophenone-4, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, PABA, padimate O, PBSA, cinoxate, dioxybenzone, homosalate, menthyl anthranilate, octyl salicylate, parsol Max, tinosorb S and A2B, Uvinul, amioxate, polyvinylidene fluoride and other similar conjugated organic compounds, radical scavengers, triplet formation inhibitors, metal compounds incorporating chromium, titanium, zinc, nickel, manganese, iron, niobium, silver, gold, aluminum, hafnium, tantalum such as the oxides and similar forms thereof wherein the metal compounds absorb or reflect UV light.
  • UV filter and UV block substances such as but not limited to avobenzone, bemotrizin
  • the topcoat composition is a post dressing composition that may be applied at a later time by the person whose hair has been dressed with the color coatings (hereinafter the user).
  • the topcoat composition may also be applied to the user’s hair by a salon professional who has previously dressed the user’s hair with color coatings or who is in the process of dressing the user’s hair.
  • the topcoat typically contains a readily evaporable medium such as an aqueous alcohol mixture in combination with water repellant compounds, hair setting compounds that may be shampoo and/or water rinse removable, or hair setting compounds that may be slowly removable by cationic shampoo but not by water rinse or ordinary anionic shampoo typically applied as a home shampoo wash of hair.
  • Water repellant compounds for inclusion in the topcoat composition may include waxes, silicones, organofluoride compounds such as polytetrafluoroethylene. Preferred among such repellants is carnauba wax, beeswax, olefmic wax, paraffin. Polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polysilicones and combinations thereof may also constitute constituents of the topcoat composition. Preferably, these polymers have significant numbers of non-reactive functional groups distributed throughout their polymer chains and as pendant groups so that hydrogen bonding, dipolar interaction and ionic interaction with the underlying films on the hair are produced. The presence of such polymers adds water repellency, shine and reasonable buoyancy character to the hair.
  • Hair setting compounds for inclusion in the topcoat composition may be readily removable with ordinary shampoo washing or may be long lasting in that multiple shampoo washings slowly will remove the hair setting compounds.
  • the hair setting compounds enable retention of a particular set or coiffure under typical environmental conditions, such as rain, humidity and wind. Nevertheless, they may be removed by shampoo washing with commercially available shampoo formulations.
  • the hair setting compounds useful for inclusion in the topcoat composition may be copolymers of an acidic vinyl monomer such as (meth) acrylic acid, a hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomer such as alkyl (meth)acrylates, and first and second associative monomers such as polyoxyalkyenyl fumaric or similar unsaturated dicarboxylic acids.
  • the compounds may be polyvinylpyrrolidones (PVP), copolymers of PVP and vinyl acetate (VA), acrylate and hydroxyalkyl acrylate copolymers, CARBOPOL (polyacrylic acid), CARBOPOL ETD polymer, xanthan gum, hydrophobically modified cellulose.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidones
  • VA vinyl acetate
  • CARBOPOL polyacrylic acid
  • CARBOPOL ETD polymer acrylate and hydroxyalkyl acrylate copolymers
  • Still other substances useful as hair setting compounds and as repellant compounds for topcoats are based upon (meth)acrylic copolymers of (meth)acrylic esters of C6 to C20 alkyl groups and (meth)acrylic esters of unsaturated alcohols and hydrophilic monomers such as (meth)acrylic acid. Copolymers of this formulation have unsaturation sites as films applied to the hair.
  • a short UV irradiation of such copolymers as films enables cross linking and conveys wind, rain and shampoo resistance to the topcoat composition.
  • Block copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, alkyl (meth)acrylates and minor percentages of olefmic monomers such as styrene provide the holding, low tackiness and high humidity resistance qualities to the topcoat while at the same time enabling readily removal with shampoo washing.
  • Incorporation into the topcoat of a non -tacky pressure sensitive adhesive such as a copolymer of butyl acrylate and methacrylic acid with the percentage of methacrylic acid being minor on the order of 2 to 4 wt% also promotes hold and set.
  • a topcoat formulated with (meth)acrylate copolymers that are not readily removable by shampoo washing and display thermoplastic qualities at temperatures about at least 20° C above human body temperature may be useful for reset of hair styles.
  • This version of the topcoat may be warmed with a warm hair dryer and the hair reset to a new style. Cooling the reset hair provides the reset hair style as the thermoplastic polymer retains the shape provided by the reset.
  • the topcoat composition may contain the polymer compounds as microparticles dispersed in the medium or may be dissolved in solution with the medium.
  • the topcoat may be applied as a liquid composition using a brush, sponge or other similar applicator to coat individual hair strands.
  • the topcoat composition may be incorporated into a spray pump container and applied as an aerosol to the hair.
  • the topcoat composition preferably is formulated to remain liquid on the hair for a sufficient time to enable gentle brushing to transfer the liquid throughout the hair strands and enable essentially all hair strands to be coated.
  • the hair may be set with mechanical devices or may be set with heat and mechanical manipulation as described above.
  • the post care composition typically may be applied by the user periodically to preserve the shine, color lastingness and character of the color coating of the hair.
  • the post care composition incorporates ingredients that impart lubrication, feel modifiers, sacrificial semi-fluid films to the hair. Includes are non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants such as long chain quaternary ammonium compounds, amosilicone conditioners, fatty acid amide conditioners, fatty alcohol betaines and sultaines, non-penetrating surfactants with a molecular volume larger than about 450 cc per mol.
  • the post care composition may be formulated in a medium such as an aqueous or aqueous alcoholic medium that is capable of volatilization over a short period of time, such as one to five minutes.
  • the post care composition may be applied to keratin fibers as a spray or as a liquid.
  • a protective composition that may be applied as a mask to the skin and parts of the user that are not to be treated with the compositions described herein.
  • the protective composition forms a thin film mask on the skin and is readily removable by peeling. Adhesion to the skin is minimal so that peeling does not injure the skin.
  • Compounds in aqueous alcohol solution provide the mask film upon evaporation of the medium.
  • Compounds such as polymers and copolymers of high Mw organic hydroxy acids such as lactic and glycolic acid provide useful peelable masks.
  • the post case composition can be designed to specifically care for the coating on the surface, versus the surface itself.
  • the post care composition is tailored to look after and care for the coating upon the hair surface.
  • Embodiments of the film forming composition and pretreatment composition include solids and liquids.
  • the solids comprise any substance or material of these compositions that in a form uncombined with any other material, solvent, liquid or substance is has a solid physical form at ambient conditions. Included at least are the polymers, small molecules and associated catalyst/promotor materials and the pigment microparticles of these compositions.
  • the medium in contrast is a liquid and functions as a solvent and/or a liquid in which solid particles are dispersed.
  • the optional components as well as the plasticizer, dispersing agent, surface treatment agent, cross linking agent and other materials added to the medium, if any, are included in the solids content as long as they remain with the polymers, reaction materials and pigment microparticles following application and setting of the color composition and pretreatment composition as a coating on strands of human hair. This includes substances that ordinarily would be regarded as liquids because they would remain in the coating on strands of hair.
  • the solids content of the film forming composition and pretreatment composition may range from about 0.1 wt% to about 50 wt% relative to the total weight of the respective composition.
  • a preferred solids content ranges from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt% and another preferred solids content ranges from about 0.2 wt% to about 12 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • An especially preferred solids content range is about 0.3 wt% to about 11 wt% with contents of about 1 wt%, about 2 wt%, about 3 wt%, about 4 wt%, about 5 wt%, about 6 wt%, about 7 wt% and about 8 wt% being more especially preferred.
  • the foregoing solids content also indicates the concentration of small molecule in the pretreatment composition medium with the especially preferred solids content range being the preferred concentration of small molecule in the medium of the pretreatment composition.
  • the film forming composition includes the binder, the catalyst and the pigment or color bodies when the film forming composition is ready for application to keratin fibers. These three components are all solids and each constitutes a portion of the total solids content of the film forming composition ready for use. When the film forming composition is maintained separately as the binder and medium, as catalyst and medium and pigment and medium, the especially preferred solids content range given above is the preferred concentration of the binder in medium when stored in a separate container.
  • the concentration of pigment in dispersant and medium in a separate container usually has a much higher concentration and in preparation for combination into the film forming composition, several of the different pigments are combined and diluted as described herein to form the coloration factor of the film forming composition.
  • the catalyst is also in a low solids concentration range as described above when the catalyst is in storage. It is typically combined with the binder in medium just prior to application to keratin fibers.
  • the ratio of the concentration of binder to small molecule upon application of the pretreatment composition and film forming composition to keratin fibers is adjusted to provide at least equal alkoxysilyl group molar equivalent amounts to assure that the small molecule and binder will not only condense with themselves but also with each other.
  • the molar equivalent amount of the small molecule is larger by from 2% to 20%, preferably 3% to 10%, more preferably from about 5% to about 10% relative to the molar equivalent amount of the binder.
  • concentrations and molar equivalent amounts designed to deliver concentrations of from 2 wt% to 4 wt% of the small molecule in the pretreatment composition and the binder in the film forming composition and preferably a molar equivalent excess of small molecule relative to the binder are calculated and measured into delivery containers so that application of a metered container of the pretreatment composition onto a portion of hair followed by application of a metered container of film forming composition onto the same portion of hair will deliver the desired results of binder and small molecule inter-condensation.
  • the color coating prepared on a releasable substrate and isolated as a standalone polymer film it can also be tested for optical density to check that the polymer film does not itself alter the hair appearance of the hair too significantly.
  • the polymer film preferably can be tested to reveal it’ s glass transition point (Tg) as described above so that it is possible to prevent the colored coating from being damaged or cracked and to secure washing and friction remanence.
  • the color coating can have a surface energy between about 20 and about 50 mN m 1 .
  • Ultimate elongation refers to the amount of elongation a given material can experience under a specific test method before failure occurs and the material breaks into more than one piece. It is the separation at break divided by the initial separation in the test, multiplied by 100 to give a percentage ultimate elongation.
  • Young's modulus or the Young modulus, is a mechanical property that measures the stiffness of a solid material. It defines the relationship between stress (force per unit area) and strain (proportional deformation) in a material in the linear elasticity regime of a uniaxial deformation. It is the Stress / Strain in this region.
  • Ultimate compression refers to the amount of compression a given material can experience under a specific test method before failure occurs and the material breaks.
  • Average repeated elongation before failure refers to the number of elongations to a fixed level of elongation repeat cycles that can be performed on a test material before failure occurs and the material breaks into more than one piece.
  • the mechanical properties of the elastomer are measured in a known manner using a Texture Analyzer TA.XT.Plus (Stable Micro Compositions).
  • the elastomer is prepared as a continuous film, for example 10 Mil thick, on a release layer (for example baking paper) using a BYK square applicator or bird type film applicator (for example 5570 Single Bar 6", 10 mils or 5357 or Square Frame 4", 5-50 mils).
  • the elastomer is produced as a diluted composition, those skilled in the art will select the appropriate thickness of the drawdown film to produce a suitable film for testing.
  • the film is left to cure at 25 °C for ⁇ 24 hours or more.
  • the elastomer is removed from the release layer and cut into rectangular sections measuring 30 mm by 10 mm using a scalpel. The thickness is then measured using a calliper to account for any shrinkage or solvent loss during curing.
  • the rectangular film is then attached to the TA instrument using A/MTG Mini Tensile Grips (Stable Micro Systems) within an initial separation of 12 mm.
  • the sample is then elongated at a rate of 0.5 mm s-1 until the elastomer sample breaks.
  • the Young’s modulus is defined as the initial slope of the linear portion of the elastic region of the force-elongation curve, which occurs just after the initial force of 5 g is applied. As the initial cross-sectional area is known, the force is converted to MPa to calculate the Youngs modulus. The ultimate elongation is indicated as a percentage, i.e. extension distance at break / initial distance *100. To assess the average repeated elongation before failure, first the ultimate elongation of the sample is measured.
  • the sample and TA instrument are arranged in the same way as to assess the ultimate elongation.
  • the sample is then elongated at a rate of 0.5 mm s-1 to a fixed elongation of 60% of the measured ultimate elongation.
  • the sample then returns to its original state at a rate of 0.5 mm s-1 and the cycle is repeated until the sample breaks, or until a maximum of 2000 repeat cycles.
  • the elastomer is prepared as a continuous 3 mm film on a release layer.
  • the film is left to cure at 25 °C for ⁇ 24 hours or longer.
  • the elastomer is removed from the release layer and a series of cylindrical disks are punched out of the film with a 3.5 mm diameter.
  • the thickness is then measured using a caliper to account for any shrinkage or solvent loss during curing.
  • the rectangular film is then attached to the TA instrument using A/MTG Mini Tensile Grips (Stable Micro Systems) using a compressive cycle.
  • the sample is compressed at a speed of 0.05 mm s-1 until the sample breaks. This is observed as a rapid deflection within the stress strain graph during the compressive cycle and is clear to those skilled in the art.
  • the film forming composition and the pretreatment composition may be maintained in separate storage compartments or in separate kit form especially if they will react together without special activation. Additionally, the catalyst for the film forming composition may be maintained separately so that it will avoid catalysis otherwise cause reaction of the alkoxysilyl groups.
  • a convenient storage means can be utilized such as plastic squeeze tubes, plastic bottles, glass containers, sachets, multi-compartment containers, tottles, spottles syringes and plunger operated dispensing devices. Unit amounts for combination can be formulated so that the entire contents of a unit of the film forming composition can be combined with the entire contents of the catalyst/promotor for application to the keratin fibers.
  • metered or calibrated dispensing containers with optional brushes and/or sponge pads for providing measured amounts of the components as directed by printed instructions can be provided.
  • these components can be pre combined for storage and handling as long as a substantive constituent that would cause in situ linking is maintained in a separate compartment.
  • This embodiment may comprise sequential, simultaneous or premixed application, to keratin fibers, of the pretreatment composition and the film forming composition. Pigment microparticles may be incorporated in the film forming composition.
  • This aspect of application provides an underlayer of pretreatment composition and overlayer of film forming composition on the keratin fibers. Management of the medium removal, temperature of the applied compositions and use of activation agents, if any, will enable transformation to a color coating in which the polymers of these compositions in situ interact to covalently, hydrogen bond, electrostatically, coordinately, ionically, dipolar-wise and entanglement-wise connect as the completed color coating.
  • the self-reactive alkoxysilyl groups are chemically reactive so that covalent and/or coordinate bonds are formed between molecules of binder.
  • these alkoxysilyl groups also combine with similar groups of the small molecule of the pretreatment composition so that the binder of the film forming composition and the small molecule of the pretreatment composition covalently interact to bind all constituents together.
  • the kit forms for the pretreatment and film forming compositions may also include one or more containers or package units for the materials and/or apparatuses for practice of the Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques.
  • a package unit for the Praeparatur technique may include one or more containers of various concentrations and kinds of anionic surfactants as well as containers for additives such as pH adjustment and carbonate solutions.
  • An instruction packet may also be included to direct when to use the kinds of anionic surfactant, how to dilute them, how to massage and/or work the surfactant compositions throughout the anagenic hair and how to rinse away and dry the anagenic hair after the Praeparatur treatment.
  • a package unit for the Fundament technique may include one or more containers with various concentrations of CTAB formulations as well as the carbonate base additive for preparation of the CTAB formulation for use.
  • the Fundamenta package unit may also include a cold plasma pen with associated electronics and attendant wash and rinse compositions.
  • An instruction packet may also be included to direct how to use the CTAB and/or cold plasma pen.
  • one or both of the Praeparatur and Fundamenta techniques may be applied to keratin fibers such as anagen hair. They may be applied separately, applied to different segments of keratin fibers, may be applied sequentially and/or may be applied simultaneously.
  • the Praeparatur technique typically may be applied first to the anagenic hair and the Fundamenta technique may be applied as needed.
  • the Praeparatur technique typically begins formulation of an aqueous- alcoholic surfactant with the preferred surfactant being an anionic sulfate surfactant.
  • the salon operator may then first wet the model’s hair with water and then apply the surfactant solution to hair and massage and lather the Praeparatur composition onto the hair and scalp. After a period of time the salon operator may then rinse the product from the hair, and optionally repeat the process again.
  • the salon operator/technician may also use a fine toothed comb or pass a hand held ultrasonic device over segments of the hair doused with detersive solution.
  • the process is continued with optional elevation of the anionic surfactant concentration and optional pH adjustment until the operator/technician’s visual inspection and touch of the hair indicates sebum, grime and minerals have been removed to expose bare hair shafts.
  • the Fundamenta technique may be applied separate, alone and independent from the Praeparatur technique or the two may be combined in either order.
  • the Fundamenta technique may be applied following the Praeparatur technique application.
  • sections of the salon model’s hair or sections of the mimic tress may be exposed to a device producing a cold (ambient temperature) plasma, for example a Relyon PZ2 Plasma Pen.
  • a typical cold plasma generator passes a stream of air, nitrogen or oxygen through a high energy RF or EMF field to produce ions and with air and oxygen, also ozone.
  • the stream of partially ionized gas may be directed toward the hair.
  • the result is a “cold plasma” of partially ionized gas on the keratin fibers.
  • the “cold plasma” may be splayed over and through segments of the Praeparatur treated hair to deep clean the surfaces of the hair strands.
  • the cold plasma is applied at a suitable distance over a period of 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 1 to 3 minutes to provide the desired effect of deep cleansing.
  • an aqueous solution of at least 10 wt%, preferably at least 20 wt%, more preferably at least 30 wt% polyalkyl ammonium bromide such as of trimethyl cetyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) or trimethyl stearyl ammonium bromide (STAB) in either alkali at a pH of about 10 or in thiol at a pH above 7 is applied to the mimic hair tress or to sections of a salon model’s hair and massaged throughout the tress or hair sections for a period of from about 5 minutes to 30 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 10 minutes.
  • This treatment is then rinsed with shampoo at acidic pH (with acetic acid) until the CTAB or STAB is removed.
  • a composition comprising 1.9 to 12 % hydrogen peroxide is mixed with a persulfate bleaching composition which can be a powder.
  • the mixed composition is applied to the hair for a period from about 1 minute to 120 minutes, more preferably from 3 to 40 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly from the hair.
  • a composition comprising 1.9 to 12 % hydrogen peroxide is mixed with a composition contain between 0.1 and 10% of an alkali agent chosen from monoethanolamine or ammonia and ammonium hydroxide.
  • the mixed composition is applied to the hair for a period from about 1 minute to 120 minutes, more preferably from 3 to 40 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly from the hair.
  • the pretreatment composition to keratin fibers as a pretreatment after application of the Praeparatur and optional Fundamenta techniques and before application of the film forming composition is at least in part a factor for achievement of the qualities and characteristics of the color coating on keratin fibers.
  • the pretreatment is applied on or to at least a portion of the keratin fibers and preferably throughout the keratin fibers.
  • the amine groups of the small molecule of the pretreatment composition are believed to interact by hydrogen bonding and dipolar interaction with complementary keratin protein groups on the keratin fibers.
  • the alkoxysilyl groups of the small molecule of the pretreatment composition are believed to undergo condensation and to undergo condensation with corresponding alkoxysilyl groups of the binder of the film forming composition to form ultimately a siloxanyl polymer network intimately entwined with the surfaces of the keratin fibers and entwined with the three dimensional network of the condensed binder.
  • these interactions which may are believed to be covalent, coordinate, electrostatic, ionic, dipolar and/or entanglement in nature function as melding between and among the keratin fibers, the pigment microparticles, and the polymers of the color coating formed from the film forming composition and the pretreatment composition.
  • Pretreatment with the pretreatment composition may be carried out prior to application of the color composition. Pretreatment may be carried out immediately prior to application of the color composition, or at least 1 hour prior to application of the color composition, or at least 24 hours prior to application of the film forming composition, or at least 10 days prior to application of the film forming composition, or at least one month prior to application of the film forming composition. Preferably, pretreatment may be carried out immediately prior to or within a few minutes up to an hour before application of the film forming composition. Typically, the pretreatment composition is at least partially dried with optional heating to at least substantially remove or otherwise eliminate its medium.
  • excess medium form the pretreatment composition on the hair may be removed by contacting the wet coated hair with an absorbent fabric or the wet coated hair may partially dried by heating with a hair drier.
  • substantial removal of the medium of the pretreatment composition is accomplished before application of the color composition.
  • more than one pretreatment composition may be applied to the hair. It may be that two different pretreatment compositions are applied sequentially, to provide a cumulative benefit for the subsequent film forming composition, which is then applied, or it may be that two different pretreatment and optionally two different film forming compositions are applied to substantially different portions of the hair.
  • Such a case may arise when applying to hair which has quite different properties, for example, to sections which have been pre-bleached or color, versus natural hair, or for root versus tip hair.
  • different pretreatments may be needed to prepare all of the hair for subsequent film forming compositions. While such different pretreatment would be directed to different portions of the hair, it is likely that there would be a least some minor mixing and some areas of the hair would receive both pretreatment compositions.
  • a third case could be where a pre-treatment composition is applied to a section of the hair, for example at the roots, and the second different pretreatment composition is then applied across all of the hair.
  • the one or more film forming compositions may be applied to the keratin fibers in combination with the foregoing pretreatment with the pretreatment composition.
  • Embodiments of the film forming composition as the binder component and the catalyst component may be maintained separately until use.
  • Application of the one or more film forming compositions to pretreated keratin fibers may be preferably accomplished by sequential application to segments of the hair. Once all segments are coated with one or more wet film forming compositions, the one or more film forming compositions may be dried and/or cured to form overlaid coating layers on the keratin fibers.
  • the application and subsequent drying and or curing may be performed section by section across the head.
  • the rate of condensation of the film forming composition and rate of drying may be pre-adjusted through medium control, pH adjustment if needed, concentration, steric interaction, temperature, and similar factors controlling reaction and/or drying rate so that a premix of the binder and catalyst of the film forming composition preferably will not substantially interact before the premix is applied to the keratin fibers.
  • the practice of this step with the pre-treatment embodiment initially introduces the film forming composition on top of the pretreatment layer of small molecules on the keratin fibers.
  • the film forming composition is in a medium, penetration, combination, mixing and/or melding of the film forming composition into the pretreatment layer will be accomplished at least in part.
  • the penetration is believed to enable the linking among the binder polymer of the film forming composition, the small molecules of the pretreatment composition and the keratin fibers. Drying and curing of these compositions preferably occur after all compositions have been applied. In this manner, melding among all layers is best achieved.
  • Application of the one or more film forming compositions to keratin fibers pretreated with the pretreatment composition is preferably carried out after pretreatment.
  • This sequence may be carried out immediately after pretreatment, or at least 1 hour after pretreatment, or at least 24 hours after pretreatment, or at least 10 days after pretreatment, or at least one month after pretreatment.
  • the sequential, simultaneous or premix application of the film forming composition may be applied to at least a portion of the keratin fibers or may be applied all over the keratin fibers.
  • the portions of the film forming composition may be applied sequentially, simultaneously in a single application over all the keratin fibers or may be applied step-by-step to the keratin fibers. Applying the film forming composition in a step- by-step manner as described above, may help to ensure that the treatable portions of the keratin fibers are saturated with the combined film forming composition and pretreatment composition and may therefore provide a better coverage of the keratin fibers.
  • the treated keratin fibers will begin to cure. If the treated keratin fibers are heated using an elevated temperature, the condensation curing of the alkoxysilyl groups to siloxanyl groups may be accelerated.
  • the temperature of the keratin fibers can be increased to elevated temperatures above room temperature such as 40°C or higher, for example using a hair drier. While the keratin fibers are being heated, some form of interdigitated implement can be used to help separate portions of the keratin fibers, and especially separate hair strands from one another.
  • interdigitated devices examples include a comb or a brush.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated with a hair drier while simultaneously being combed or brushed until it is dry to the touch.
  • other means can be employed to heat and separate the keratin fibers such as hair simultaneously. For example, using a combination of air movement and vibrations will accomplish distribution of the multicomponent composition throughout the strands of hair.
  • the performance of operational method aspects of the present invention can be applied to keratin fibers to form a coating of the pretreatment and film forming compositions and optional topcoat composition.
  • This aspect of the invention concerns a method for coloring keratin fibers and comprises applying embodiments of one or more pretreatment and film forming compositions for a time sufficient to deposit an effective color coating on the keratin fibers such as each keratin fiber or hair strand. A somewhat to substantially overall distribution of the coating on the length and circumference of each fiber is produced.
  • embodiments of the pretreatment and film forming compositions are applied to the keratin fibers according to the sequences described above by brushing, painting, spraying, atomizing, squeezing, printing, rubbing, massaging or in some manner coating the keratin fibers such as hair strands with the embodiments.
  • the composition is set, cured, linked, coordinated and/or otherwise melded together preferably by warming with blown warm air from a hair dryer or similarly treatable to remove the medium, initiate in situ linking of the alkoxysilyl groups as well as hydrogen bonding, molecular entwining and polar interactions among the binder polymer, the in situ formed silicone network formed from the alkoxysilyl small molecules of the pretreatment composition and keratin fibers.
  • the setting leaves a substantial to essentially complete overall bonding and binding among these substantive constituents of the color coating on keratin fibers.
  • the rate or rate of reaction for the film forming composition and pretreatment composition to cure and to bond internally and with each other is the speed at which reactants are converted into products.
  • the rate refers to the speed at which the covalent and non-covalent bonding occurs.
  • it is preferred that the rate of reaction/drying is not so fast that the resulting elastomer forms before the wetting and spreading on keratinous surface can occur. If the rate of reaction/drying is too fast the resulting elastomer may not then be able to subsequently wet and spread on the hair surface, resulting in an inferior coating of the hair and one that displays less resistance to washing.
  • the rate of reaction/drying is slow enough such that the film forming and pretreatment compositions can wet and spread on the keratinous surface, yet also fast enough that a macroscopically continuous film on a keratinous surface is formed as the film bonds/binds covalently/non- covalently.
  • the typical period for accomplishing continuous film formation is preferably less than 48 hours, more preferably in less than 24 hours, even more preferable in less than 12 hours, most preferable in less than 6 hours and especially most preferably in less than 30 minutes following the completion of application and under normal room temperature conditions.
  • the bonding and binding of the substantive constituents of pretreatment and one or more film forming compositions and the keratin fibers during application provides a color coating that resists removal by washing with dilute mixtures of soap and water or shampoo and water. Color remanence is developed so that washing with dilute aqueous soap solution or dilute aqueous shampoo will not substantially remove the coating, but the coating can be facilely removed by use of a transformation trigger.
  • the properties of the coating include remanence, flexibility, adhesion, abrasion resistance and remanence which are due at least in part to the binding and bonding character of the substantive coating constituents including at least their intermolecular entwining, ionic and electrostatic intermolecular interaction, covalent and/or non-covalent linking, hydrogen bonding, dipole interaction and lipophilic interaction of these substantive constituents.
  • the pretreatment and film forming compositions and optional topcoat in accordance with the present disclosure can have a viscosity that can be controlled to enable the product to be applied to the hair using either a brush and bowl or a bottle, but with sufficient rheology such that it does not drip and run from the hair onto the face or body.
  • low viscosity formulations may be applied to the hair via a suitable application device such that it does not drip and run form the hair onto the face and body.
  • the pretreatment and film forming compositions and optional topcoat can be utilized in concentrated form or in serial dilutions, to provide for a consistent color results substantially along the entire length of the keratin fibers.
  • the aspect of coloring keratin fibers with a pretreatment and film forming composition and optional topcoat as described above includes a method for this coloring.
  • the method comprises:
  • the pretreatment and film forming compositions and optional topcoat are applied to the keratin fibers in any suitable way including spraying the pretreatment and film forming composition, massaging the keratin fibers by hand, after applying the pretreatment and film forming composition to the hand or by combing, brushing or otherwise applying the pretreatment and film forming composition throughout the keratin fibers.
  • the methods by which the pretreatment and film forming compositions and optional topcoat composition described herein are applied can be modified, such that the user applies the product in one region of the hair, and then can apply a diluted version in another region of the hair.
  • the dilution formula is specially chosen to be compatible with the colorant formulation and reduces the coloring strength, while maintaining the longevity of the color result. This can effectively be a “blank” formulation, which contains broadly the same materials as the coloring formulation, but with lower or no pigments present.
  • the ratio of the diluent to colorant can be between about 10:1 and about 1:10, about 8:1 and about 1 :2 or about 5 : 1 and about 1:1.
  • the amounts of pretreatment and film forming compositions and optional topcoat composition applied can be altered in different regions of the hair, for example half the product is applied in the lengths of the hair, leading to a less colorful result.
  • the difference in amounts applied in one region of the hair versus another can be between about 4:1 and about 1 :4 or about 2: 1 and about 1 :2.
  • Color 1 L-15 ⁇ Color 2 L ⁇ Color 1 L+15 0 or Color 1 C-10 ⁇ Color 2 C ⁇ Color 1 C+10 Color 1 h-45 ⁇ Color 2 h ⁇ Color 1 h+45
  • the method for use of the pretreatment and film forming compositions and optional topcoat composition in accordance with the present invention can occur during any suitable period.
  • the period of application can be from about 0 to 30 minutes, but in any event a period that is sufficiently long to permit the coating of pigment microparticles to coat and adhere or bind to each separate keratin fiber, substantially along the entire length of each keratin fiber.
  • the resultant is keratin fibers having a color and permanence that is at least equivalent to the color resulting from oxidative hair color, except under much milder conditions.
  • the pretreatment and film forming compositions described herein can be prepared by the manufacturer as a full shade, e.g., one that is ready to apply to the hair, and then shipped as a discrete unit to the user.
  • the user may need to re-blend the pretreatment and film forming composition prior to application to ensure that the pretreatment and color composition delivers the optimum performance.
  • Such re-blending can require shaking the pretreatment and film forming composition for about 1 to about 120 seconds or from about 3 to about 60 seconds.
  • Reblending may also be performed by stirring the pretreatment and film forming composition prior to use. This may occur for about 1 to about 120 seconds or from about 3 to about 60 seconds.
  • the pretreatment and film forming compositions according to the present invention are designed to provide stable suspensions of the pigment particles, the re-blending to agitate the microparticles and resuspend them in a substantially uniform distribution is desirable.
  • compositions comprising different pigments can be blended together prior to application to the keratin fibers. Such blending can be done in a manner so as to apply a plurality of complementary surface colors to the keratin fibers.
  • a large group of different pigments with small molecule coatings and concentrated in dispersant media are provided as pre-mixes for combining with the film forming composition.
  • the color selection program describe above will determine which selections of the different pigment concentrates will provide the desired color result for the customer’s hair.
  • the pre mixes are metered into the film forming composition at concentrations ready for application to anagenic hair.
  • the pretreatment and film forming compositions can include multiple layers, involving multiple applications of at least the film forming composition following the pretreatment and film forming compositions. It may be beneficial also to periodically reapply the third component.
  • the techniques for applying multiple layers follow the techniques described above for application of a single pretreatment and color composition.
  • the coating of pigment microparticles comprising at least one pigment in a coating of the substantive constituents of the pretreatment and film forming compositions can be adhered to the treatable material such as hair utilizing a coating having a total thickness at any given point along the hair fiber of less than about 5 pm, preferably less than about 2 pm as measured using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).
  • SEM scanning electron microscope
  • a coated hair sample can be embedded in a suitable resin, and then sectioned root to tip using techniques known to those skilled in the art of scanning electron microscopy.
  • the thickness of the layer on the surface can then be assessed along the line of cuticles over a length of at least 100 pm. The thickness of layer is determined by averaging 10 points evenly spaced over the section of interest.
  • first portion of the hair refers to the hair adjacent to the persons scalp, the so called root hair region which may extend from a few millimeters to several centimeters.
  • second portion of the hair is not adjacent to the scalp, i.e. the area which is not within the first portion. There may be some overlap between the first and second portions, due to the limitations of physically segregating these two portions on a person’s head, but the two portions are different to one another.
  • the first portion of the hair refers to the one whole uniform area from root to tip.
  • the second portion of the hair is then another section of hair from root to tip. Again these two portions are different to one another, but have a significant area of overlap, with the second portion covering an area which may to some extent overlap with the first portion.
  • Roots for example can be covered with a lighter shade and the tips can be covered with a darker shade to produce a two tone variation of the hair.
  • Application to the hair of a first portion of pretreatment and film forming composition followed by stripping the composition from the hair mid sections and ends followed by setting the remaining composition on the hair roots will provide a first hair color coating on the roots.
  • the mid-sections and tips can be dipped or brush applied with a second portion of pretreatment and film forming composition to complete the two color or two tone treatment.
  • the use of multiple pretreatment and film forming compositions to produce multiple coatings on the hair can provide overlapping, sequential or coterminous coatings on the hair according to typical and routine techniques for applying multiple versions of hair color practiced by professional hair salons.
  • An optional post treatment composition can be applied after treating the keratin fibers with the pretreatment and film forming compositions described herein. This can be applied either directly after completion of coloring with these compositions.
  • the post treatment can be either single application or multiple application across time.
  • the post treatment can be used to improve one or more of: feel, resistance to shampoo / conditioner / water washing treatments, and shine of the hair.
  • Nonlimiting examples of materials used to improve the feel are those which impart lubricity to the treatable material such as hair strands and/or help the hair strands separate during the drying steps.
  • Nonlimiting examples of materials used to improve shampoo wash resistance are materials which act as a ‘sacrificial layer’ for example polymeric silicones and their copolymers, silicone resins, cosmetics oils and waxes.
  • Nonlimiting examples of materials used to improve the shine of hair are those materials which form a smooth film above the previously applied pigment polymer composite on the hair.
  • any cosmetically known film forming material can be used, but preferred are materials such as polymeric silicones and polycationic materials.
  • Hair colorants made from the pretreatment and film forming composition are very resistant to everyday hair treatments (such as washing with shampoo, conditioner etc) can be removed via use of specifically designed “removal formulations.” These are specific chemical mixtures, described herein, and are designed to work by one or both of two broad mechanisms: cleavage of chemical bonds, either linking groups in the binder of the film forming composition and solvation of components of the colored coating.
  • the mixture can be made to be a solvent for the pigment itself.
  • the mechanism of removal involves first dissolution of the pigment from the binding matrix, followed by removal from the hair by rinsing with water or some other carrier.
  • the chemical nature of the pigment even when in dissolved form, is such that there is minimal attraction/solubility in the hair matrix itself, thus allowing removal of the color.
  • the “removal formulation” can be made such that it dissolves, weakens or chemically breaks down the polymer coating holding the pigment on the hair.
  • the pigments embedded in the binder matrix are released due to weakening or dissolution of the coating itself and, because the coloring material is a pigment, it has minimal attraction for the hair surface and is too big to penetrate the hair, and in consequence this facilitates removal of the color.
  • An agent that cleaves those bonds can act as a trigger agent to divide the polymeric network and enable surfactant and solvent to readily disperse the cleaved coating.
  • agents include basic amino alcohols such as dimethylaminoethanol (dimethylethanolamine, DMEA), dimethylaminopropanol, and similar amino alkanol agents such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. These amino alcohols can be formulated in aqueous medium to enable coating removal.
  • fatty organic acids such as dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid or oleic acid may be combined with non-aqueous medium such as a volatile hydrocarbon including but not limited to dodecane to trigger removal.
  • non-aqueous medium such as a volatile hydrocarbon including but not limited to dodecane to trigger removal.
  • These organic acids function as surfactants to lift the coating from the keratin fiber surfaces and to break the functional group bonds which cleaves the polymeric network of the coating.
  • concentration of the trigger agent in alcoholic medium such as methanol, ethanol or aqueous medium or in non-aqueous medium may range from about 0.1 % to about 15 % by weight, preferably about 0.5 % to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1% to about 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the removal solution.
  • the binder with Si-O-Si links may also contain a group such as an ester, amide, urea or urethan group which can function as a cleavable linkage.
  • This linkage is susceptible to hydrolysis and can be cleaved using basic or acid lysis.
  • the cleavage will include a counter nucleophile which can be water or a small molecular weight monofunctional amine or thiol.
  • the organic or silicone polymer having chain extensions with siloxane condensation a strong acid such as dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid (DBS A) or a source of fluoride anion tetrabutylammonium fluoride (TBAF) in appropriate solvent as described in combination with Hansen solubility parameters including 5d + dr + 5h wherein 5d is from 13 to 25, preferably 15 -19 and dr is from 0 to 15, preferably 0 to 5 and dh is from 0 to 25, preferably 0 to 8.
  • DBS A dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid
  • TBAF fluoride anion tetrabutylammonium fluoride
  • the in chain functional groups such as N-acylurea, urea, urethane, amide and/or ester can be cleaved through use of a small molecular weight monofunctional amine or thiol to attack the functional group and disrupt polymer chains.
  • an organic acid such as DBS A
  • TBAF or other organic fluoride such as Olaflur can also be used to de-polymerize the chain.
  • the multi-application process physically distributes the components to cover all of the hair.
  • the spraying, massaging, combing and/or hand manipulating the pretreatment and film forming compositions produces the full coverage and at the same time leaves thin spots in the otherwise substantially uniform coating. This activity also will aid in the removal process.
  • waxy non-reactive, non-combinable substances having melting points somewhat higher than human body temperature may be incorporated into the pretreatment composition. The concentration of waxy substance may be sufficient to enable heat disruption of the polymer film of the pretreatment layer on the keratin fibers but not enough to prevent the engagement of the polymer film properties of the pretreatment layer.
  • the waxy substance may be melted at least in part so as to disrupt the color coating on the keratin fibers.
  • Combing or brushing can remove disrupted color coating.
  • an organic solvent soluble polymer such as a cellulose derivative, including but not limited to nitrocellulose, cellulose acetate-butyrate or other solvent soluble polymer may be incorporated into the film forming composition. The amounts and concentrations of the solvent soluble polymer are sufficient to enable the polymer to form separate domains of polymer film within the coating produced from film forming compositions. Contacting such a coating with an organic solvent in aqueous medium will at least in part dissolve the solvent soluble polymer and disrupt the continuous nature of the coating layer. Combing or brushing can remove disrupted color coating.
  • a Perkin Elmer Spectrum® 1 Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) composition equipped with a diamond Attenuated Total Internal Reflection (ATR) cell may be used to measure the cysteic acid concentration in mammalian or synthetic hair.
  • FTIR Fourier Transform Infrared
  • ATR Attenuated Total Internal Reflection
  • the switches may be platted ( ⁇ 1 plait per cm) in order to minimize variations in surface area of contact between readings.
  • the Oxidative hair Treatment Protocol described above may be repeated for 5 cycles to mimic the behavior of hair after repeated bleaching cycles. Following this treatment, four readings per switch may be taken (1/3 and 2/3 s down the switch on both sides), and an average calculated.
  • Backgrounds may be collected every 4 readings, and an ATR cell pressure of 1 N/m may be employed.
  • the cell may be cleaned with ethanol between each reading, and a contamination check may be performed using the monitor ratio mode of the instrument.
  • a normalized double derivative analysis routine may be used.
  • the original spectra may be initially converted to absorbance, before being normalized to the 1450 cm l band (the characteristic and invariant protein CEL stretch). This normalized absorbance may be then twice derivatised using a 13 point averaging.
  • the value of the 1450 cm 1 normalized 2nd derivative of the absorbance at 1040 cm 1 may be taken as the relative concentration of cysteic acid. This figure may be multiplied by -lxlO 4 to recast it into suitable units.
  • compositions of the current invention can be applied to the hair and then removed there can be a non-significant change to the level of damage to the hair, whereas with conventional oxidative colorants there can be a large increase in the measured damage.
  • pretreatment and film forming compositions having a given color area (gamut principle described above) defined by color coordinates (a*, b*) in the color space represented by the L*a*b* color composition, which can be divided into a plurality of color areas.
  • Each of the plurality of colors obtained from the area surrounding a given set of hair fibers is judged to belong to which color area of the colored area of a certain color.
  • the number of colors judged for each color area is counted, and the color of the color area with the largest number of colors is selected as a representative color of the area surrounding a given set of hair fibers.
  • compositions are capable of delivering colors on hair (test method herein for fade) such that the results colors lie within the range of about 18 ⁇ L ⁇ about 81, about -2 ⁇ a ⁇ about 45, and about -13 ⁇ b ⁇ about 70.
  • the waste water/composition can be treatable to remove the pigments from the waste water effluent composition. This can be achieved by filtration, or through cyclone technology, where the density differences are used to force the pigments to the settle, and the water to pass through.
  • the coloration products were applied using the protocols described in the foregoing sections. For the salon testing, the same protocols were applied. The compositions were not applied to the whole of the models' head, discrete strands were selected, similar in width to a hair tress upon which the product was applied. This technique enabled the use of two difference coloration products on the same panelist’s head on two spatially resolved strands of hair. After the coloration product was applied and dried, a short while later the model's hair was rinsed with water and then dried again.
  • the color compositions described herein within the examples are generally applied to a hair tress.
  • One gram of each of the pretreatment composition and/or film forming composition is applied to each gram of hair tress.
  • the tress is placed on a flat plate or in a bowl and the pretreatment composition and/or film forming composition brushed into the hair to ensure that all of the strands look visibly coated with the composition(s).
  • the hair tress is then dried by heating with a hair dryer while combing until it is dry to the touch and the hairs are individualized.
  • compositions used herein are prepared as described in the following sections prior to starting the applications steps.
  • Standard color remanence procedure The standard color remanence procedure is used to determine the remanence of the colored hair tresses.
  • the shampooed colored hair tress is rinsed with water for approximately 30 seconds.
  • the rinsed colored hair tress is then dried using a hot blow dryer while mechanically separating the fibers using a comb until uniformly dry.
  • Steps 1-5 described above represents one cycle of the standard color remanence procedure.
  • the standard remanence cycle is repeated 15 times, giving a total of 15 cycles of shampoo applications.
  • the visual color remanence assessment is then performed to assess the color remanence after the standard color remanence test.
  • Full root simulation color remanence test This test was used to determine the color remanence of the hair coated with a multicomponent coloring composition under more demanding conditions which are designed to better mimic a person’s anagenic hair and especially a person’s root hair. Versus the standard color remanence test three changes are made. Rather than using standard natural white hair tresses, light blonde hair tresses are used. Prior to application of a color composition (pretreatment and film forming compositions) to the tresses, a sebum mimic is applied to the tresses as described below to account for the anagenic hair with sebum.
  • the colored tress is washed using an extended protocol including reapplication of sebum mimic to imitate the recoating of the hair with sebum originating from the sebaceous glands in- between hair washes.
  • the full root simulation hair tress is termed mimic hair or mimic hair tress throughout this application.
  • a synonym also used in this application to describe mimic hair is “full root simulation hair.”
  • the following procedure describes initial sebum application to produce mimic hair.
  • the light blonde hair tresses are treated with synthetic sebum to better simulate root hair found on a person.
  • Sebum measuring 0.1 g of (Hautfett nach BEY, sold by Wfk-Testgewebe GmbH) is applied to the individual hair tress weighing about 1 g described above.
  • the tress was placed in an over at 40° C for 30 minutes to produce a mimic hair tress.
  • Steps to apply the color composition (pretreatment and film forming compositions) to the mimic hair tress are performed as described above.
  • the color coating on the mimic hair tress was then allowed to rest at 20 °C and 60-70 %RH for 20 hours. This lower temperature is chosen to more closely replicate conditions on a consumer hair.
  • the shampooed colored mimic hair tress is rinsed with water for approximately 30 seconds.
  • the rinsed colored mimic hair tress is then dried using a hot blow dryer while mechanically separating the fibers in the substrate material until uniformly dry.
  • Steps 1-10 described above represent one cycle of the full root simulation color remanence test. These are repeated for a total of 5 cycles. As in the standard color remanence test, full root test results in a total of 10 shampoo applications to the hair tress prior to assessment.
  • the visual color remanence assessment described below is then performed to assess the color remanence after the full root simulation color remanence test.
  • Hair tresses used for testing Three types of hair were used to mimic consumers hair from their tips to their roots.
  • Treated hair tresses These were tresses which were subjested to the following treatment to reflect consumers tip hair: Natural white undamaged human hair was purchased (Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH, Backnang, Germany) in the form of 10 cm long and 1 cm wide tresses. The tress was treated with a mixture of Blondor Multi -Blonde bleach powder available from Wella Professionals mixed 1 part with 1.5 parts of 12% Welloxon Perfect available from Wella Professionals. About 4 g of this mixture was applied to each gram of hair.
  • the tresses were then incubated in an oven at 45 °C for 30 minutes after which they were rinsed in water, 37 +-3 °C with a flow rate of 4 L / min for 2 minutes and the hair was then dried with a standard Hair dryer from Wella.
  • Untreated hair tresses These were used to reflect mid length consumer hair.
  • the Natural white undamaged human hair described above was used as received. Additionally in some procedure light blonde hair was purchased (Farbe 9/0 from Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH, Backnang, Germany) in the form of 10 cm long, 1 cm wide strands. The light blonde hair has in prior testing been shown to be a better mimic of consumers root hair, the hair adjacent to the scalp. Whilst not wishing to be bound to theory, it is thought to be less processed by the supplier prior to preparing hair tresses than the natural white hair tresses. These hair tresses were also used as received.
  • Mimic hair tresses These are the untreated hair tresses to which synthetic sebum is applied and distributed throughout the hair strands as described above in the section titled Full root simulation color remanence test. To simulate the continued sebum secretions of anagenic hair, the synthetic sebum composition is reapplied to the color coated mimic hair tress after each shampoo of the remanent testing.
  • Untreated hair tresses as purchased and as used are not coated with natural or synthetic sebum, but they do have the F layer coating.
  • Mimic hair tresses are coated with synthetic sebum and have the F layer coating as a result of the use of the untreated hair tresses as the starting material for the mimic hair tresses.
  • Preparation procedure for film forming system comprising at least two in situ covalently reactive components and a pigment and a pre-treatment.
  • the pigment is combined with isopropanol and a dispersant and blended using a bead mill.
  • Example 1 Performance of the film forming composition and the addition of cure catalysts.
  • the pigment is combined with isopropanol and a dispersant.
  • the film forming system and the optional catalyst are then also added and then mixed until uniform using standard lab methods.
  • the composition is used within 2 hours of making.
  • General Coloring Procedure To the pre-treated hair tress described above is added a freshly prepared film forming coloring composition prepared as described above, 1 gram of composition is applied per 1 gram of hair. Application is accomplished by a slow distribution and spreading on the hair tress, for example, with fingers, brush, comb or other manipulation instrument/tool. The slow distribution can be accomplished by application with a syringe or a pipette serially to portions of the hair tress. Excess is removed with absorbent tissue material and the resulting colored hair tress is blow dried while combing using a hair dryer to achieve better hair individualization. Treated hair tresses may be kept at rest for a time period as much as a day at 40°C and 85-95% relative humidity condition and also at room temperature 20-25°C at 50-60% relative humidity.
  • VP 2100 is a catalyst, bis(2-etylhexyl)phosphate ester. This is a commercial product.
  • WorleePur VPSi2021 is a triethoxysilyl terminated linear polyester of Formula IA with the polyester moiety and the urethane connector groups as described in paragraphs 0080 and 0088. This is a commercial product.
  • Example 2 Performance of the film forming compositions on hair which has received a pre- treatment.
  • the separate pre-treatment compositions are prepared by combining the pre-treatment compound into a solvent and also additional compounds such as water and mixing until uniform. The resulting mixture is the pre-treatment composition.
  • Hair pre-treatment procedure Hair prepared as described above was treated with the pre treatment composition described above, one gram of composition per one gram of hair. The composition was left on the hair between 1 and 5 min. The hair was then dried using a blow dryer with combing to result in dry hair.
  • PEI polyethylenimine
  • the acronyms for these small molecules are described in the Detailed Description.
  • the acronyms for these small molecules are described in the Detailed Description.
  • the pre-treatment active can also be added directly into the coloring composition.
  • Praeparatur procedure To the hair which had a pre-treatment of sebum to replicate the hair found on a person’s head, prepared using the protocol described above, either nothing was done, and the hair was then colored, or the following step was performed.
  • the shampooed hair tress is rinsed with water for approximately 30 seconds. 5. Apply 0.1 g “Wella System Professional Deep Cleanser Shampoo” without dilution to the individual hair tress weighing about 1 g described above.
  • the shampooed hair tress is rinsed with water for approximately 30 seconds.
  • the rinsed hair tress is then dried using a hot blow dryer while mechanically separating the fibers in the substrate material until uniformly dry.
  • Piezobrush® PZ2 (Relyon Plasma, Regensburg, Germany) was used to treat the hair tress. It was held 5 mm from the tress surface and moved slowly up and down along the tress for 3 minutes on each side to perform the Fundamenta step.
  • the difference between the result of 6B (Praeparatur only) and the results of 6C and 6D (Praeparatur and Fundamenta) illustrate the increased remanence effect produced by removal of the F layer.
  • the Praeparatur technique removes sebum but not typically the F layer.
  • the Fundamenta technique primarily is directed toward removal of the F layer following prior removal of sebum by the Praeparatur technique as shown by this Example 6.
  • the Fundamenta technique also will remove sebum and the F layer if practiced alone.
  • the medium may contain solvent, thickener, polyelectrolyte, detergent builders and combine and mix until uniform using standard laboratory means.
  • the color removal composition is worked into the colored hair tress for approximately between 30 sec to 1 minute with fingers or a comb of manipulation instrument by using stroking motion into the hair. 3. Leave the color removal composition onto the colored hair tress for approximately 15 min unless stated differently.
  • the shampooed colored hair tress is rinsed with water for 30 sec.
  • the shampooed colored hair tress is rinsed with water for 30 sec.
  • the rinsed colored hair tress is then dried using a hot blow dryer until uniformly dry.
  • Example 8 Testing properties of the resulting film.
  • the mechanical properties of the elastomer are measured using a Texture Analyzer TA.XT.Plus (Stable Micro Systems).
  • the films are prepared according to the following steps.
  • the sample was mixed using a SpeedmixerTM by Hauschild at 2750 rpm for 1 minute.
  • the sample was poured onto a smooth release layer, for example baking paper.
  • the sample was left to cure for at least 24 hours at 25 C. 6.
  • the sample was then cut using a scalpel into 30 mm x 10 mm strips. The thickness of each sample was measured in the middle.
  • Measurement of the sample was performed in the Texture Analyser using A/MTG Mini Tensile Grips (Stable Micro Systems)fitting. With an initial separation of 12 mm, the sample was clamped into position. The sample is then elongated at a rate of 0.5 mm s 1 until the sample breaks. The resulting data is analysed for slope to yield the Young’s modulus reported in MPa and for the maximum force before breaking also in MPa. At least four replicates are performed and the average values reported. The Young’s modulus of the material is assessed from 5% to 30% of the break strain.
  • a statement of a method for producing a color coating on the surfaces of keratin fibers comprising
  • a statement of a method for producing a color coating on the surfaces of keratin fibers comprising applying a pretreatment composition and a film forming composition to the keratin fibers to form a composite layer thereon, wherein pretreatment composition comprises an organosilicone small molecule comprising at least alkoxysilyl groups and optional organoamine groups, and the film forming composition comprises one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies and at least one in situ self covalently reactive cross linkable organic polymeric binder having two or more alkoxysilyl pendant and/or terminal groups, preferably terminal alkoxysilyl groups alone wherein the binder is linear or branched, preferably linear.
  • pretreatment composition comprises an organosilicone small molecule comprising at least alkoxysilyl groups and optional organoamine groups
  • the film forming composition comprises one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies and at least one in situ self covalently reactive cross linkable organic polymeric binder having two or more alkoxysilyl pendant and
  • X is hydroxy or alkoxy of 1 to 3 carbons
  • R 1 is a Cl to C8 alkyl enyl group
  • Ct is a connector group of the Formula II -UkRkU 2 - joining X 3 Si-R'- to Poly, wherein:
  • U 1 is covalently bonded to R 1 and U 2 is covalently bonded to Poly;
  • Each of U 1 and U 2 independently is a urea or urethane group
  • R 2 is a C2 to C12 alkylenyl group, a C6-C16 alkylcycloalkyl group or a C6-C14 aromatic or alkylaromatic group;
  • Poly is a polymer of monomeric units of an organic ester, urethane, urea, amide or polyol or any combination thereof and y designates the number of monomeric units of Poly forming a polymeric backbone wherein y is an integer of from 2 up to about 1 million, preferably up to about 300,000, more preferably up to about 250,000, most preferably up to about 200,000 and Poly is linear or branched, preferably linear; wherein
  • the organic ester monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C20 alkane diol or a C6-C10 aromatic diol and a C3 to CIO alkanodioic acid or a C8-C10 aromatic dicarboxylic acid or the unit is formed of a C3 -CIO hydroxy alkanoic acid or a C8 -CIO aromatic hydroxy carboxylic acid;
  • the organic urethane monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkane diol and an R 3 - diisocyanate;
  • the organic urea monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkane diamine and an R 3 - diisocyanate;
  • the organic amide monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkane diamine and a C3 to CIO alkanodioic acid or a C8-C10 aromatic dicarboxylic acid;
  • the polyol monomeric unit is a formed of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide
  • R 3 is a linear or branched C2 to C12 alkylenyl group, a C6-C16 alkylcycloalkyl group or a C6-C14 aromatic or alkylaromatic group;
  • U 1 may be a urethane group for each of the Polyester, Polyurethane, Polyurea, Polyamide and Polypolyol provisos.
  • a statement of a method according to any of the previous statements further comprising at least one of: a Poly ester having at least one ester monomeric unit formed of a C3-C10 triol; a Poly urethane having at least one urethane monomeric unit formed of a C3 -CIO triol; a Poly urea having at least one urea monomeric unit formed of a C3-C10 triamine; a Poly amide having at least one amide monomeric unit formed of a C3-C10 triamine; or, a Poly polyol having at least one polyol monomeric unit formed of a triol which is glycerin; wherein the third hydroxyl of the triol and the third amine group of the triamine is covalently bound to Ct of a pendant alkoxysilyl group of the formula XsSi-RkCt-.
  • Poly comprises a mixture of two or more monomeric units selected from the group consisting of ester monomer, urethane monomer, urea monomer, amide monomer and polyol monomer.
  • each of R 2 and R 3 independently is a C4-C6 alkylenyl group, a C7-C14 alkyl cycloalkyl group, or a C13 alkylaromatic group. 17. A statement of a method according to any of statements 5-16 wherein each of R 2 and R 3 independently is isophoronylenyl, toluenylenyl, methylene diphenyl, hexanylenyl, methylene bis(cyclohexylenyl) or naphthalenyl.
  • each of R 2 and R 3 independently is isophoronylenyl, hexanylenyl, methylene diphenyl or methylene bis(cyclohexylenyl).
  • Formula V wherein c is an integer of 3 to 6, e is an integer of 2 to 8 and preferably e provides an ethane or butane or hexane diol; R 20 is a divalent benzenenyl or is (CH 2 ) f wherein f is an integer of 4 to 8; and R 20 preferably is a residue of terephthalic acid, succinic or adipic acid residues, g is an integer of 10 to 300,000, R 10 is a C4 to C8 alkylenyl group, preferably providing hexyl enyl and R is methyl or ethyl.
  • the polymer moiety of the binder of the film forming composition is linear or branched, preferably linear.
  • organosilicone small molecule comprises pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl groups and pendant and/or terminal organoamine groups.
  • the pretreatment composition comprises a mixture of at least an organosilicone small molecule with at least two alkoxysilyl groups and at least another organosilicone small molecule with at least one alkoxysilyl group and at least one organoamine group.
  • R may be methyl or ethyl
  • R 14 is a C1-C6 alkylenyl group
  • Designators m and m’ may be an integer of 1 to 3;
  • Designators o, n, b, r, s, c, u may be zero or 1;
  • Designator a may be zero, 1 or 2;
  • Designator v may be zero, 1 or 2 such that when a is 2, v is 2 and when a is 1, v is 1 and when a is zero, v is 1 or zero.
  • Designator t may be 1 to 3;
  • Designators p and q independently may be zero or an integer of 1 to 6.
  • Designator t may be zero or an integer 1-3;
  • Group A may be a divalent group including dithio, diazo, urethanyl, ureido, or C1-C6 alkylenyl connecting left and right sections of the small molecule, or Group A may be a terminal group including C1-C14 alkyl, C1X-C14X alkyl wherein X is N, S or O and X may be in-chain or terminal, C1-C6 alkoxy, C7-C14 arylalkyl, C6X-C14X heteroarylalkyl with X as N, S or O; C1-C6 alkylenyl(meth)acrylate or C1-C6 alkylureido.
  • the small molecule comprises a mixture of a first small molecule with at least one amine group and at least one triethoxy silyl group and a second small molecule with no amine groups and at least two triethoxysilyl groups.
  • a statement of a method according to any of statements 36-40 wherein the small molecule of the pretreatment composition is aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES), trimethoxysilyl propyldiethylene triamine (SCA), trimethoxylsilylpropyl (meth)acrylate ester (MEMO), propyl triethoxysilane (PTEO), ureidotrimethoxysilane (UREIDO), phenylsilane (PHS), tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), 3-mercaptopropyl trimethoxy or triethoxysilane (MPTS) or propylenyl or butenyl bis(trimethoxysilane).
  • APTES aminopropyl triethoxysilane
  • SCA trimethoxysilyl propyldiethylene triamine
  • MEMO trimethoxylsilylpropyl (meth)acrylate ester
  • PTEO propyl triethoxys
  • a C2-C6 alkanol organic medium preferably ethanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
  • no more than 5 percent preferably no more than 2 percent water relative to the total weight of the medium
  • a statement of a method according to any of the preceding statements further comprising priming and/or deep cleaning the keratin fibers by applying a Praeparatur and/or a Fundamenta technique to the fibers, wherein the Praeparatur and/or Fundamenta techniques comprise a Praeparatur step of treating the keratin fibers with a non-conditioning or substantially non-conditioning surfactant composition to produce primed keratin fibers; and a Fundamenta step of deep cleaning the surfaces of the keratin fibers to form deep cleaned keratin fibers.
  • the surfactant composition includes an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or a combination thereof at a concentration of from about 2 wt% to about 30 wt%, preferably about 10 wt% to about 25 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition and optional inclusion of agents for adjustment of viscosity and ionicity and optional adjustment of the pH.
  • a statement of a method according to any of the preceding statements wherein the Praeparatur step includes agitation of the keratin fibers by mechanical manipulation and/or by ultrasound vibration.
  • the surfactant composition includes an anionic surfactant comprising a carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate and/or sulfate head with a hydrophobic tail comprising a C8-C20 alkyl, a C8-C20 alkyl-polyethylene glycol or a C8-C20 alkyl-polypropylene glycol.
  • anionic surfactant is a sodium and/or potassium and/or ammonium salt of the carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate and/or sulfate.
  • anionic surfactant is a lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate with a PEG-2 to PEG 30, preferably PEG 2-PEG 10, more preferably PEG 2 to PEG 5 or a laureth sulfate with a PPG-2 to PPG-30.
  • a statement of a method according to any of preceding statements further comprising an ionicity/viscosity builder modifier in the surfactant composition.
  • ionicity/viscosity builder modifier is an alkali metal salt of carbonate, phosphate, sulfate, nitrate or xylene sulfonate.
  • keratin fibers comprise anagen hair on the scalp of a person and the hair is primed to remove dirt, grime and sebum.
  • the cold plasma is a non-equilibrium atmospheric plasma of air or oxygen and/or nitrogen which has an effective temperature which approximates ambient temperature
  • the phase transfer tenside is a multialkyl ammonium halide, preferably a C2-C20 alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide, preferably cetyl or stearyl trimethylammonium bromide optionally with chlorine or bromine water and preferably alkali or thiol at basic pH.
  • a statement of a method according to any of the preceding statements wherein the Fundamenta step includes rinsing the keratin fibers with ashampoo in pH adjusted medium optionally containing a surface preparation aid and drying the keratin fibers to form deep cleaned keratin fibers.
  • hydroxy mono or dicarboxylic acid is malic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid or a C5-C10 hydroxy alkanodioic acid and the alkali is carbonate, t-butoxide in t-butanol or is an alkyl or aromatic thiol.
  • a statement of a method according to any of the preceding statements comprising contacting the keratin fibers with a surfactant composition and mechanically distributing the surfactant composition throughout the fibers for at least 1 to 2 minutes, rinsing the surfactant composition from the fibers for at least a minute and optionally repeating the surfactant composition contact, distribution and rinsing to produce primed keratin fibers.
  • a statement of a method according to any of the preceding statements comprising contacting the primed keratin fibers with a cold plasma for at least 1 to 5 minutes followed by rinsing the keratin fibers to produce deep cleaned keratin fibers.
  • a statement of a method according to any of the preceding statements comprising contacting the keratin fibers or primed keratin fibers with a solution of fatty C2-C20 alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide, preferably cetyl or stearyl trimethylammonium bromide and manipulating the solution throughout the fibers for a period of from 5 minutes to 30 minutes followed by rinsing to keratin fibers with shampoo in acidic medium and/or in a basic medium with t-butanol and butoxide or aqueous carbonate to produce deep cleaned keratin fibers.
  • 87. A statement of a method according to statement 86 wherein the drying is accomplished at a temperature so as to cure at least partially the composite film and produce a color coating on the surfaces of the keratin fibers.
  • a coloration feature of the film forming composition comprises development of a series of premixes of pigments and dispersants and formation of the coloration feature by blending together a selection of premixes to produce a custom color mix of pigment selections and dispersants and combining the custom color mix with the film forming composition wherein the blending together of a selection of premixes is accomplished by correlating a spectrographic coloration analysis of the keratin fibers and applying a computer simulation to the coloration analysis and desired color to identify the selection of premixes for producing the desired color of the keratin fibers; or the coloration feature of the film forming composition comprises a series of film forming compositions in ready-to-use containers each with a premixed pigment combination to provide a selection of colors ready to use for coloration of keratin fibers, especially anagen hair.
  • a keratin coloring composition for producing a color coating on the surfaces of keratin fibers comprising a film forming composition comprising a compatible medium, one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies and at least one in situ self covalently reactive cross linkable organic polymeric binder having two or more pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl groups wherein the binder is linear or branched, preferably linear.
  • X is hydroxy or alkoxy of 1 to 3 carbons
  • R 1 is a linear or branched Cl to C8 alkylenyl group
  • Ct is a connector group of the Formula II -UkRkU 2 - joining X 3 Si-R'- to Poly, wherein:
  • U 1 is covalently bonded to R 1 and U 2 is covalently bonded to Poly;
  • Each of U 1 and U 2 independently is a urea or urethane group
  • R 2 is a C2 to C12 alkylenyl group, a C6-C16 alkylcycloalkyl group or a C6-C14 aromatic or alkylaromatic group;
  • Poly is a monomeric unit of an organic ester, urethane, urea, amide or polyol or any combination thereof and y designates the number of monomeric units of Poly forming a linear or branched oligomeric or polymeric backbone wherein y is an integer of from 2 up to about 1 million, preferably up to about 300,000, more preferably up to about 250,000, most preferably up to about 200,000; wherein Poly is linear or branched, preferably linear, and wherein
  • the organic ester monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C20 alkanediol and a C3 to CIO alkanedioic acid or a C8-C10 aromatic dicarboxylic acid or the unit is formed of a C3-C10 hydroxy alkanoic acid or a C8-C10 aromatic hydroxycarboxylic acid;
  • the organic urethane monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkane diol and an R 3 - diisocyanate;
  • the organic urea monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkane diamine and an R 3 - diisocyanate;
  • the organic amide monomeric unit is formed of a C2-C10 alkane diamine and a C3 to CIO alkanodioic acid or a C8-C10 aromatic dicarboxylic acid;
  • the polyol monomeric unit is a formed of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide
  • R 3 is a C2 to C12 alkylenyl group, a C6-C16 alkylcycloalkyl group or a C6-C14 aromatic or alkylaromatic group;
  • U 1 may be a urethane group for each of the Polyester, Polyurethane, Polyurea, Polyamide and Polypolyol provisos.
  • a statement of a keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding composition statements further comprising: a Poly ester having at least one ester monomeric unit formed of a C3-C10 triol; a Poly urethane having at least one urethane monomeric unit formed of a C3 -CIO triol; a Poly urea having at least one urea monomeric unit formed of a C3 -CIO triamine; a Poly amide having at least one amide monomeric unit formed of a C3 -CIO triamine, a Poly polyol having at least one polyol monomeric unit formed of a triol which is glycerin; wherein each of the third hydroxyl of the triol and the third amine group of the triamine is covalently bound to Ct of a pendant alkoxysilyl group of the formula X3S1- RkCt-.
  • Poly comprises a mixture of two or more monomeric units selected from the group consisting of ester monomer, urethane monomer, urea monomer, amide monomer and polyol monomer.
  • each of R 2 and R 3 independently is a C4-C6 alkyl enyl group, a C7-C10 alkyl cycloalkyl group, or a C13 alkylaromatic group.
  • 110-C A statement of a keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding composition statements except 110-B wherein the binder comprises alkoxysilyl groups at its termini and pendant along its backbone.
  • 110-D A statement of a keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding composition statements except 110-B and 110-C wherein the binder comprises a mixture of a binder with alkoxysilyl groups only at its termini and a binder with alkoxysilyl groups at its termini and pendant along its backbone.
  • a keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding composition statements wherein the catalyst is present and is a titanium acetate ester, a C2- C8 alkyl phosphate ester acid, C2-C8 alkyl sulfate ester acid, a C2-C8 borate ester acid or a mineral acid.
  • a statement of any of the preceding keratin coloring composition statements further comprising a pretreatment composition comprising at least one organosilicone small molecule comprising at least one pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl group and none or at least one pendant and or terminal organoamine group.
  • a statement of a keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding statements about the pretreatment composition wherein the pretreatment composition comprises a mixture of at least an organosilicone small molecule with at least two alkoxysilyl groups and at least another organosilicone small molecule with an alkoxysilyl group and an organoamine group.
  • R may be methyl or ethyl
  • R 14 is a C1-C6 alkylenyl group
  • Designators m and m’ may be an integer of 1 to 3;
  • Designators o, n, b, r, s, c, u may be zero or 1;
  • Designator a may be zero, 1 or 2;
  • Designator v may be zero, 1 or 2 such that when a is 2, v is 2 and when a is 1, v is 1 and when a is zero, v is 1 or zero.
  • Designator t may be 1 to 3;
  • Designators p and q independently may be zero or an integer of 1 to 6.
  • Designator t may be zero or an integer 1-3;
  • Group A may be a divalent group including dithio, diazo, urethanyl, ureido, or C1-C6 alkylenyl connecting left and right sections of the small molecule, or Group A may be a terminal group including C1-C14 alkyl, C1X-C14X alkyl wherein X is N, S or O and X may be in-chain or terminal, C1-C6 alkoxy, C7-C14 arylalkyl, C6X-C14X heteroarylalkyl with X as N, S or O; C1-C6 alkylenyl(meth)acrylate or C1-C6 alkylureido. 118.
  • a statement of a keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding statements about the pretreatment composition wherein the small molecule of the pretreatment composition is a dimethylsiloxane oligomer of 2 to 10 silicon atoms with multiple pendant and terminal groups of the formula -(CH 2 ) d -Si(OR) 3 and/or of the formula - (CH2) d -NH2 and/or of the formula -(CH2) d -NH-(CH2) d -NH2 wherein each d independently is an integer of 4 to 8.
  • a statement of a keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding statements about the pretreatment composition wherein the small molecule of the pretreatment composition is aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES), trimethoxysilyl propyl di ethylene triamine (SCA), trimethoxylsilyl propoxy (meth)acrylate ester (MEMO), propyl triethoxysilane (PTEO), ureidotrimethoxysilane (UREIDO), phenylsilane (PHS), tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), propylenyl or butenyl bis(trimethoxysilane), 3- mercaptopropyltrimethoxy or triethoxysilane (MPTS) hy droxy dimethyl silyl dimethylsiloxymethylsiloxy(propylaminoethylamine) dimethylhydroxysiloxane (silamine), said silamine in which the hydroxy groups are converted to me
  • the pretreatment composition comprises a C2-C6 alkanol organic medium, preferably isopropanol or isobutanol with no water or acetic acid while the pretreatment composition is contained in a storage container.
  • a statement of a keratin coloring composition according to statement 122 further comprising from 1 wt% to 10 wt% , preferably 1 wt% to 3 wt% water combined with the alkanol organic medium and wherein the medium optionally comprises 0.1 wt% to 2 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 0.5 wt% acetic acid and the water and acetic acid are combined with the alkanol prior to application of the pretreatment composition to keratin fibers.
  • a keratin coloring composition comprising a pretreatment composition and a film forming composition, wherein:
  • the pretreatment composition comprises at least a C2-C4 alkanol medium and at least one organosilicone small molecule with at least one pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl group and at least one pendant and/or terminal organoamine group;
  • the film forming composition comprises at least a C2-C4 alkanol medium, one or more microparticle pigments and/or color bodies dispersed in the medium with a dispersant, a catalyst and at least one in situ self covalently reactive cross linkable organic polymeric binder having two or more pendant and/or terminal alkoxysilyl groups wherein the binder is linear.
  • compositions comprising the pretreatment composition and film forming composition formed as a film on the surfaces of keratin fibers.
  • keratin coloring composition according to any of the preceding composition statements wherein the keratin fibers are anagen hair, hair on the scalp of a human or shorn hair formed into swatches and coated with sebum and the keratin fibers have been primed and/or deep cleaned.
  • a statement of a color coating on keratin fibers according to any of the preceding composition statements comprising a dried, cured film of pretreatment composition and film forming composition on the surfaces of keratin fibers.
  • composition of any of the preceding statements of keratin color compositions and the film forming composition of any of the preceding statements of methods, wherein the film forming composition further comprises: a dispersion of pigment particles and/or color bodies and pigment dispersant.
  • Statement 5 dispersant.
  • Statement 6 dispersant.
  • a post-color coating composition comprising a medium and a topcoat composite.
  • topcoat The post-color coating composition of statement Tl wherein the topcoat composite is one or more of a UV filter, a visible light filter, a radical scavenger, a triplet formation inhibitor, a water repellant, a hair spray formulation for holding a hair style or any combination thereof.
  • topcoat The post-color coating composition of statement Tl wherein the topcoat composite comprises a plurality of polymeric particles, formed of a polymeric composite having neutralized acid moieties, wherein, in each of at least a portion of said polymeric particles, said polymeric composite envelops at least one polymeric particle; and, wherein said polymeric composite having said neutralized acid moieties includes neutralized alkene-(meth)acrylic acid copolymer and/or neutralized acrylamide/acrylate copolymer wherein the polymer is selected from: a) neutralized ethylene-acrylic acid (EAA) copolymer. b) neutralized ethylene-methacrylic acid (EMAA) copolymer. c) neutralized acrylamide/acrylic acid (AAA) copolymer.
  • EAA neutralized ethylene-acrylic acid
  • EAA neutralized ethylene-methacrylic acid
  • EAA neutralized ethylene-methacrylic acid
  • AAA neutralized acrylamide/acrylic acid
  • topcoat The post-color coating composition of statement Tl wherein the topcoat composite is an aqueous dispersion comprising: a plurality of polymeric particles formed at least in part of a hydrophilic polymeric composite having neutralized acid moieties, wherein at least a part of the hydrophilic polymer composite in at least a portion of said polymeric particles envelops at least one pigment core particle, and wherein the polymeric particles are dispersed within the aqueous dispersion; and the composition being adapted to produce a pigmented polymeric layer.
  • the topcoat composite is an aqueous dispersion comprising: a plurality of polymeric particles formed at least in part of a hydrophilic polymeric composite having neutralized acid moieties, wherein at least a part of the hydrophilic polymer composite in at least a portion of said polymeric particles envelops at least one pigment core particle, and wherein the polymeric particles are dispersed within the aqueous dispersion; and the composition being adapted to produce a pigmented
  • topcoat The post-color coating composition of Statement T1 wherein the topcoat composite comprises a wear resistant olefmic polymer, a sacrificial non-sticky substance, a polyester, a poly (higher alkyl (meth)acrylate), a shellac, a volatile organic solvent, a fragrance and any combination thereof.
  • the topcoat composite comprises a wear resistant olefmic polymer, a sacrificial non-sticky substance, a polyester, a poly (higher alkyl (meth)acrylate), a shellac, a volatile organic solvent, a fragrance and any combination thereof.
  • Statement T6 A statement of a method for top coating a color coating on keratin fibers comprising applying a topcoat composite of any of statements T1-T5.
  • statement T7 A statement of a method according to statement T6 wherein the topcoat composite is contained in an aerosol container under pressure and is applied as a spray to the keratin fibers with a color coating.
  • Statement T8 A statement of a method according to statement T7 wherein the topcoat composite is diluted with a C4-C6 perfluoro hydrocarbon and/or carbon dioxide which act as a propellant.
  • a care composition for caring for a color coating of keratin fibers comprising a medium and a surface care active for overcoating the color coating.
  • Statement 2 post care.
  • the care composition of Statement 1 wherein the surface care active is a lubricating agent, a sacrificial agent, a feel modifier, an antifade agent or a combination thereof.
  • Statement 3 post care.
  • Statement 4 post care.
  • a statement of a method comprising applying a care composition of any of statements 1-3 to a color coating on keratin fibers.
  • a topcoat-care composition comprising a combination of a care composition of any of statements 1-3 and a topcoat composite of any of statements T1-T5.
  • Statement R1 A statement of a method for removing the color coating from keratin fibers comprising contacting the color coating with a removal composition comprising an organic hydrocarbon medium comprising at least dodecyl benzene sulfonic acid and isodecane.
  • Statement R2 A statement of a method according to statement R1 wherein the removal composition is applied to the keratin fibers and thoroughly manipulated throughout the fibers for a period of at least 10 to 15 minutes.
  • statement R3 A statement of a method according to statement R2 further comprising using an absorbable substrate to wipe the hair to take away the removal composition from the hair after manipulation.
  • Statement R4 A statement of a method according statement R3 wherein the absorbable substrate is a cotton cloth or one or more paper towels.
  • Statement R5. A statement of a method according to statement R4 further comprising shampooing and rinsing the hair following elimination of the removal composition from the hair.

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Abstract

Les procédés et les compositions de la présente invention concernent la coloration de cheveux anagènes. Les procédés consistent à appliquer un apprêt et à laver en profondeur les cheveux anagènes, puis à appliquer sur les mèches de cheveux un pigment composite contenant un film d'une petite molécule et une composition filmogène qui interagissent de manière covalente pour former un réseau de silicone tridimensionnel intime comprenant le pigment sur la surface des cheveux.
EP21740444.1A 2020-06-30 2021-06-29 Procédés de préparation de revêtements colorants de fibres de kératine avec une composition d'alcoxysilyle-polymère organique Pending EP4171493A1 (fr)

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KR100727345B1 (ko) * 1999-04-20 2007-06-13 칼곤 코포레이션 모발로부터 오염물을 세척 및 제거하기 위한 조성물 및방법
EP2168633B1 (fr) * 2008-09-30 2016-03-30 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé organique du silicium comportant au moins une fonction basique, un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, un pigment et un solvant volatil

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