EP4210660A1 - Masque de soin capillaire liquide clair à changement de consistance et effet immédiat pendant l'application - Google Patents

Masque de soin capillaire liquide clair à changement de consistance et effet immédiat pendant l'application

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Publication number
EP4210660A1
EP4210660A1 EP21762627.4A EP21762627A EP4210660A1 EP 4210660 A1 EP4210660 A1 EP 4210660A1 EP 21762627 A EP21762627 A EP 21762627A EP 4210660 A1 EP4210660 A1 EP 4210660A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
care composition
hair care
hair
alcohol
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21762627.4A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Tina Ahnfeldt
Sylvia KERL
Jasmin INGWERSEN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP4210660A1 publication Critical patent/EP4210660A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Hair care often plays a central role in personal hygiene. Healthy, shiny but not greasy hair with elasticity and volume is widely seen as a special sign of beauty but also health. At the same time, however, the widespread modern lifestyle can significantly affect long hair in particular. Frequent washing and blow-drying can also leave marks, as can hard water, dry air, styling products or tints and dyes, resulting in a special need for care and/or repair of the hair.
  • hair masks or hair treatments which can be applied to wet hair after cleaning with water and shampoo but before conditioning.
  • Such products are usually emulsions containing care ingredients that can penetrate the hair structure to a certain extent, but this requires some exposure time.
  • Adhering to the correct exposure time can present the user with challenges or be uncomfortable and detract from the positive experience.
  • a contact time that is too short leads to only a slight care effect, while a contact time that is too long can lead to various undesirable effects, depending on the product, from greasy hair to hair breaking.
  • this can result in higher water consumption, which, due to the treatment of groundwater or surface water to make drinking water, involves technical effort and energy consumption and of course also costs for the consumer consumers. In areas with scarce water resources, increased water consumption may also be undesirable for other reasons.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition
  • a hair care composition comprising: at least one monohydric alcohol, at least one polyhydric alcohol, at least one long chain fatty alcohol, at least one quaternary ammonium salt, at least one emollient, and at least one medium chain triglyceride.
  • the hair care compositions contain essential ingredients as a solution and not, for example, as an emulsion or suspension, they can be clear and transparent, in contrast to conventional emulsion-based products, and it is preferred that they are clear and transparent. It is to be understood here that what is referred to as “clear and transparent”, for example the hair care compositions, essentially does not scatter light in the range that is normally visible to humans.
  • the viscosity of the hair care compositions according to the invention is preferably at most 500 mPas, preferably at most 350 mPas and particularly preferably at most 200 mPas when measured with a rotational viscometer, model VT 550, from Haake, as detailed in the enclosed instructions and briefly described below.
  • a sample is measured in the gap between two coaxial cylinders.
  • the inner cylinder (rotor) is rotated against the outer, fixed cylinder (stator), creating a laminar flow in the liquid.
  • a certain rotational speed When applying a certain rotational speed, a defined shear rate is generated in the gap between the cylinders, the torque is measured on the rotor and converted into shear stress.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition as described above, characterized in that the at least one monohydric alcohol is ethanol, propanol, butanol or a mixture thereof, preferably ethanol, propanol or a mixture thereof and particularly preferably ethanol and/or in one concentration from 13% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably 15% by weight to 34% by weight and particularly preferably 20% by weight to 30% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • the at least one monohydric alcohol is ethanol, propanol, butanol or a mixture thereof, preferably ethanol, propanol or a mixture thereof and particularly preferably ethanol and/or in one concentration from 13% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably 15% by weight to 34% by weight and particularly preferably 20% by weight to 30% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition as described above, characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is a C3 or C4 alcohol or a mixture thereof, preferably glycerol, propanediol or a mixture thereof and particularly preferably the mixture of glycerol and propanediol and/or in a concentration of 20% by weight to 45% by weight, preferably 23% by weight to 42% by weight and particularly preferably 25% by weight to 40% by weight, in each case based on the total weight the hair care composition is present therein.
  • the at least one polyhydric alcohol is a C3 or C4 alcohol or a mixture thereof, preferably glycerol, propanediol or a mixture thereof and particularly preferably the mixture of glycerol and propanediol and/or in a concentration of 20% by weight to 45% by weight, preferably 23% by weight to 42% by weight and particularly preferably 25% by weight to 40% by weight, in each case based on the total weight the hair care composition is present therein.
  • humectants serve, among other things, as humectants. Your goal is to optimally moisturize your skin and hair. They keep the skin healthy and elastic, prevent the premature formation of wrinkles and strengthen the natural skin barrier. After all, this barrier function is the most important task of the skin, it protects the organism from drying out and from harmful external influences. However, the humectants also directly improve the suppleness of the skin and hair.
  • concentration ranges described have proven to be particularly suitable for producing the desired effect described to the intended extent, without producing significant undesirable effects or unreasonably restricting the freedom of formulation with regard to the other ingredients.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition as described above, characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is a C8 to C16 fatty alcohol or a mixture thereof, preferably myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or a mixture thereof and particularly preferably a mixture of myristyl alcohol , lauryl alcohol and cetyl alcohol and/or in a concentration of 10% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably 13% by weight to 32% by weight and particularly preferably 15% by weight to 30% by weight each based on the total weight of the hair care composition is present in this.
  • the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is a C8 to C16 fatty alcohol or a mixture thereof, preferably myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or a mixture thereof and particularly preferably a mixture of myristyl alcohol , lauryl alcohol and cetyl alcohol and/or in a concentration of 10% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably 13% by weight to 32% by weight and particularly
  • fatty alcohols are moisturizing care ingredients. Preceding a hair treatment, hair is usually cleaned by shampooing, which inevitably leads to a certain degree of degreasing. This is generally not beneficial for beautiful hair shine, smoothness and long-term hair health, which is why there are advantages to using a moisturizing component in the hair care compositions of the invention.
  • the fatty alcohols described have proven to be particularly advantageous. They achieve a good level of refatting and leave the hair looking healthy but not greasy.
  • concentration ranges described have proven to be particular in the context of the formulations disclosed herein proven to be suitable for producing the desired effect described to the intended extent without producing significant undesirable effects or unreasonably restricting the freedom of formulation as far as the other ingredients are concerned.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition as described above, characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is an alkyltrimethylammonium salt, preferably a C14 to C18 alkyltrimethylammonium salt and particularly preferably hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, also known as cetrimonium chloride, and/or in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.8% by weight to 4.4% by weight and particularly preferably 1% by weight to 4% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the Hair care composition therein.
  • the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is an alkyltrimethylammonium salt, preferably a C14 to C18 alkyltrimethylammonium salt and particularly preferably hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, also known as cetrimonium chloride, and/or in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.8% by weight to 4.4% by weight and particularly
  • Such a quaternary ammonium salt closes the open cuticle layer again after washing the hair and thereby makes the hair less sensitive again. It then does not lose any moisture, is protected from drying out and achieves a new shine and new suppleness without a feeling of being weighed down.
  • concentration ranges described have proven to be particularly suitable for producing the desired effect described to the intended extent, without producing significant undesirable effects or unreasonably restricting the freedom of formulation with regard to the other ingredients.
  • quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • other cationic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are also suitable.
  • These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing cationic group, such as. B. a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing, cationizable group, such as. B. an amine group and also at least one lipophilic alkyl group having about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazylalkyl group.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical, ester quats and amidoamines each having at least one C8-C24 acyl radical and mixtures thereof are suitable.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates, such as C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91.
  • the Alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are cationic surfactants that contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element and also at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®.
  • N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulfate and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of such esterquats.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition as described above, characterized in that the at least one emollient is a dialkyl carbonate and preferably dicaprylyl carbonate and/or in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably 2% by weight % to 13% by weight and particularly preferably 3% by weight to 12% by weight in each case based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • the at least one emollient is a dialkyl carbonate and preferably dicaprylyl carbonate and/or in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably 2% by weight % to 13% by weight and particularly preferably 3% by weight to 12% by weight in each case based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • the hair dries out, becomes electrified, loses its elasticity and becomes stiff.
  • concentration ranges described above have proven to be particularly suitable for producing the desired effect described to the intended extent, without producing significant undesirable effects or unreasonably restricting the freedom of formulation as far as the other ingredients are concerned.
  • Silicones are also widely used as emollients in generic hair care products. There is often no alternative to achieving the desired care and repair effect.
  • the hair care compositions according to the invention achieve outstanding care and repair effects even entirely without silicones. However, they are fully compatible with silicones and may contain silicones if desired in specific cases.
  • the hair care compositions according to the invention mean that organosilicon compounds, in particular silicones, can be dispensed with in these very hair care compositions.
  • sicone-free or “free from silicones” means that the hair care compositions described as “silicone-free” or “free from silicones”, for example, the hair care compositions described here, are free from organosilicon compounds, in particular free from silicones , trisiloxanes and silicone oils.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition as described above, characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is a C6 to C12 fatty acid-based medium-chain triglyceride, preferably a C8 to C10 fatty acid-based medium-chain triglyceride and particularly preferably a the INCI name caprylic/capric triglyceride is a medium-chain triglyceride known and/or in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably 2% by weight to 13% by weight and particularly preferably 3% by weight % to 12% by weight in each case based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is a C6 to C12 fatty acid-based medium-chain triglyceride, preferably a C8 to C10 fatty acid-based medium-chain triglyceride and particularly preferably a the INCI name caprylic/capric triglyceride is a
  • medium-chain triglycerides have an appropriate molecular structure to quickly penetrate the scalp and hair follicles, and then efficiently improve nutrient delivery there.
  • Medium-chain triglycerides also act as natural antioxidants, protecting hair follicles from free radical damage, fighting dandruff and keeping the scalp healthy.
  • concentration ranges described above have proven to be particularly suitable for producing the desired effect described to the intended extent, without producing significant undesirable effects or unreasonably restricting the freedom of formulation with regard to the other ingredients.
  • the invention provides a hair care composition as described above, which also contains water in a concentration of less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight and particularly preferably less than 10% by weight, each based on the Total weight of the hair care composition present therein.
  • the invention provides a method comprising the steps of: bringing the hair care composition into contact as described above with preferably wet or damp human or animal hair, in particular long human head hair, optionally incorporating and/or massaging to enhance contact with the hair, optionally waiting for a certain exposure time in the range from 1 second to 3 minutes, preferably 2 seconds to 1 minute and particularly preferably 5 to 10 seconds, and rinsing the hair, preferably with an aqueous liquid, particularly preferably with water, to further End or at least reduce exposure to the hair care composition.
  • the invention provides a use of the hair care composition as described above for the care of preferably wet or damp human or animal hair, in particular long human head hair.
  • hair care compositions according to the invention contain at least one hair-conditioning active ingredient selected from cationic polymers, preferably cationic polymers of natural origin and/or
  • Oils preferably natural (vegetable) oils and/or
  • Suitable cationic polymers of natural origin for the purposes of the present invention mean, for example: quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example the cationic polymers sold under the trade name SoftCat® , cationic alkyl polyglycosides, canonized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the cationic cassia and/or inulin derivatives sold under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar, N-Hance® and Jaguar® cationic polymers known from the INCI names Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.
  • Quaternized cellulose polymers hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose derivatives and/or cationic guar derivatives are preferred.
  • the hair care compositions according to the invention can contain cationic polymers - preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride - preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.02 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.03 to 1% by weight. -% of the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Suitable humectants for the purposes of the present invention are preferably fiber structure-improving active ingredients such as polyols (ie physiologically compatible polyalcohols or To understand polyhydroxyl compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • active ingredients such as polyols (ie physiologically compatible polyalcohols or To understand polyhydroxyl compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • Typical examples are straight-chain, branched or cyclic alkanols having 2 to 10, preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, 1,2-propanediol and/or diglycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols and/or polypropylene glycols and sugar alcohols or sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, Lactose, galactose, sucrose, sorbitol, mannitol, etc. Glycerol is preferred.
  • natural oils are preferably understood as meaning a vegetable oil, particularly preferably a cold-pressed vegetable oil.
  • Cold-pressed oil means an oil obtained by cold-pressing and/or cold-extracting the relevant plant (or the relevant plant part) at a temperature of 40°C or less, preferably 35°C or less and more preferably 30°C or less.
  • Oils which can be obtained by cold pressing or cold extraction and are suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are preferably triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides such as coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil (tea tree oil ), soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, Rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter used.
  • coconut oil such as coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil,
  • the cold-pressed or cold-extracted oil is preferably present in the hair care compositions according to the invention in dispersed form, the droplet size of the dispersed oil being 0.1 to 5 ⁇ m, preferably 0.5 to 3 ⁇ m.
  • the hair care compositions according to the invention contain natural oils - preferably cold-pressed natural oils - preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 1% by weight Total Weight of Hair Care Composition.
  • Trimethylglycine can be used in the hair care compositions according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the hair care composition will.
  • vitamins are preferably to be understood as meaning the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
  • Vitamin A the group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the b-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • Examples of possible vitamin A components are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.
  • Vitamin B the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, among others: Vitamin Bi (Thiamine) Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) Vitamin B3.
  • Vitamin Bs pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • preference is given to using panthenol.
  • Derivatives of panthenol that can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and cationically derivatized panthenols. Examples of individual representatives are panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic ones
  • Vitamin Be pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol
  • Vitamin F usually refers to essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is known as vitamin H, but in the meantime the common name biotin has prevailed.
  • Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol are very particularly preferred; Nicotinamide and/or panthenol are particularly preferred.
  • the proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s) and/or the vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the cosmetic hair care compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.006 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.008 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.50% by weight.
  • Suitable plant extracts are above all the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, date palm, cinnamon tree, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, rest harrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, Moringa, ginger root and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tin
  • Suitable extracts can be obtained from the fruits, seeds, flowers, roots, leaves and/or bark of the above plants or from the whole plants (algae, seaweed).
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80% by weight of active substance and, as the solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their production. Suitable extraction agents are usually water and/or alcohols.
  • the plant extract(s) can preferably be used in the hair care compositions according to the invention in total amounts of 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.75% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, with the amount is based on the weight of the hair care composition.
  • Suitable protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures which can be obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • Protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal and/or marine origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • Protein hydrolyzates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).
  • Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soybeans or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein fraction has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons.
  • quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof are to be understood as cationic protein hydrolyzates.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or of the amino acids is frequently carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are the products known and commercially available under the INCI designations: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Case
  • the proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate(s) in the total weight of the hair care composition is preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 2% by weight.
  • a hair care composition comprising: at least one monohydric alcohol, at least one polyhydric alcohol, at least one long chain fatty alcohol, at least one quaternary ammonium salt, at least one emollient, and at least one medium chain triglyceride.
  • Hair care composition according to point 1 characterized in that the at least one monohydric alcohol is ethanol, propanol, butanol or a mixture thereof. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one monohydric alcohol is ethanol, propanol or a mixture thereof. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one monohydric alcohol is ethanol. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one monohydric alcohol is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 13% by weight to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one monohydric alcohol is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 15% by weight to 34% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one monohydric alcohol is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 20% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one alcohol is ethanol and is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 20% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is a C3 or C4 alcohol or a mixture thereof. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is glycerol, propanediol or a mixture thereof. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is a mixture of glycerol and propanediol. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 20% by weight to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 23% by weight to 42% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 25% by weight to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to any of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one polyhydric alcohol is a mixture of glycerol and propanediol in a weight ratio of 1:3 to 1:6 and in a concentration of 25% to 40% by weight respectively based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is a C8 to C16 fatty alcohol or a mixture thereof. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or a mixture thereof. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is a mixture of myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol and cetyl alcohol Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is in a concentration of 10% by weight to 35% by weight based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 13% by weight to 32% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol in a concentration of 15 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% based on the total weight of
  • Hair care composition therein.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one long-chain fatty alcohol is a mixture of myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, preferably in a weight ratio of approximately 96:2.5:1.5, and in a concentration of 15% by weight. % to 30% by weight in each case based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is an alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.
  • Hair care composition according to any one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is a C14 to C18 alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.
  • Hair care composition according to any of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, also known as cetrimonium chloride.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 0.8% by weight to 4.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 1% by weight to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium salt is hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, also known as cetrimonium chloride, and is present in a concentration of 1% by weight to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition .
  • Hair care composition according to any of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one emollient is a dialkyl carbonate.
  • Hair care composition according to any of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one emollient is dicaprylyl carbonate. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one emollient is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one emollient is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 2% by weight to 13% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one emollient is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 3% by weight to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one emollient is dicaprylyl carbonate and is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 3% by weight to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that it is free from silicones.
  • Hair care composition according to any one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is a C6 to C12 fatty acid-based medium-chain triglyceride. Hair care composition according to any one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is a C8 to C10 fatty acid-based medium-chain triglyceride. Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is a medium-chain triglyceride known under the INCI designation caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 2% by weight to 13% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is present in the hair care composition in a concentration of 3% by weight to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that the at least one medium-chain triglyceride is the medium-chain triglyceride known under the INCI name caprylic/capric triglyceride and in a concentration of 3% by weight to 12% by weight in each case based on the Total weight of the hair care composition present therein.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points in which also water in a concentration of less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight and particularly preferably less than 10% by weight, each based on the total weight of the hair care composition in this present.
  • a hair care composition according to any one of the preceding items further comprising water present in the hair care composition at a concentration of less than 10% by weight based on the total weight of the hair care composition.
  • Hair care composition according to any one of the preceding points characterized in that it is clear and transparent.
  • Hair care composition according to one of the preceding points characterized in that its viscosity is at most 500 mPas, preferably at most 350 mPas and particularly preferably at most 200 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer, model VT 550, from Haake, as in the instructions accompanying this measuring instrument described.
  • Method comprising the steps: bringing the hair care composition into contact according to one of the preceding points with preferably wet or damp hair of a human or animal, in particular long head hair of a human, optionally working in and/or massaging to increase contact with the hair, optionally waiting a specific exposure time in the range from 1 second to 3 minutes, preferably 2 seconds to 1 minute and particularly preferably 5 to 10 seconds, and rinsing the hair, preferably with an aqueous liquid, particularly preferably with water, to end the further action of the hair care composition or at least reduce it.
  • Method according to point 16 in which the steps mentioned as optional in point 16 are mandatory.
  • An exemplary hair care product of the invention has the following formulation.
  • the product Lanette 14 is a mixture of the fatty alcohols myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, in this order in a weight ratio of 96:2.5:1.5.
  • the Cetiol CC product is a product which essentially contains dicaprylyl carbonate and additionally contains 0.0375% by weight of tocopherol.
  • Dehyquart A CA is a product containing water, citric acid and cetrimonium chloride in this order in a weight ratio of 74.5:0.5:25.
  • the product Nutrilan Keratin W PP is water, 2-phenoxyethanol, hydrolyzed keratin and potassium sorbate in this order in the weight ratio 79:0.8:20:0.2.
  • the hair care compositions according to the invention achieve a care and repair effect on severely damaged hair that is clearly superior to the established gold standard in this area (very caring emulsion-based crucible treatment) and not just for a few exotic parameters but practically continuously with all parameters usual in the area. This is particularly remarkable because, contrary to the established opinion in the technical field, these results could be achieved with a clear, single-phase formulation and with the very short, sometimes negligibly short, exposure times described in detail above.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition de soin capillaire, comprenant : au moins un alcool monovalent, au moins un alcool polyvalent, au moins un alcool gras à chaîne longue, au moins un sel d'ammonium quaternaire, au moins un émollient, et au moins un triglycéride à chaîne moyenne, un procédé, comprenant les étapes consistant : à mettre en contact de la composition de soin capillaire avec des cheveux/poils de préférence humides ou mouillés d'un être humain/animal, en particulier des cheveux longs d'un être humain, éventuellement à faire pénétrer et/ou à appliquer par massage pour intensifier le contact avec les cheveux, éventuellement à laisser poser pendant une durée déterminée allant de 1 seconde à 3 minutes, de préférence de 2 secondes à 1 minute, et de préférence encore de 5 à 10 secondes, à rincer les cheveux, de préférence avec un liquide aqueux, en particulier de préférence à l'eau, pour arrêter ou au moins réduire l'effet de la composition de soin capillaire, ainsi qu'une utilisation de ladite composition de soin capillaire pour le soin des cheveux/poils de préférence mouillés ou humides d'un être humain/animal, en particulier des cheveux longs d'un être humain.
EP21762627.4A 2020-09-07 2021-08-05 Masque de soin capillaire liquide clair à changement de consistance et effet immédiat pendant l'application Pending EP4210660A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102020123257.8A DE102020123257A1 (de) 2020-09-07 2020-09-07 Klare flüssige haarmaske mit konsistenztransformation und unmittelbarer wirkung während der anwendung
PCT/EP2021/071841 WO2022048855A1 (fr) 2020-09-07 2021-08-05 Masque de soin capillaire liquide clair à changement de consistance et effet immédiat pendant l'application

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FR3064476B1 (fr) 2017-03-31 2020-10-23 Oreal Procede de traitement cosmetique des fibres keratiniques comprenant l'application d'une composition de base et d'une composition comprenant un tensioactif cationique
US12257330B2 (en) * 2018-12-31 2025-03-25 L'oreal Hair coloring compositions and methods of use
JP7241890B2 (ja) 2018-12-31 2023-03-17 ロレアル 毛髪ケアおよびコンディショニング組成物
CN115551469B (zh) * 2020-03-31 2025-04-11 莱雅公司 包含多元醇、c2-6一元醇和阳离子表面活性剂的毛发护理组合物

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 14 January 2020 (2020-01-14), ANONYMOUS: "Treatment Conditioner", XP055873295, Database accession no. 7169441 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 5 July 2021 (2021-07-05), ANONYMOUS: "7 Sec Express Repair Treatment", XP055873273, Database accession no. 8828447 *
See also references of WO2022048855A1 *

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