Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
  • D04B1/243—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel upper parts of panties; pants
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
  • D10B2501/02—Underwear
  • D10B2501/021—Hosiery; Panti-hose

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of clothing, in particular to a method for making a textile article and the relative textile article, by means of so-called 'seamless' technol ogy.
• “seamless” technology makes it possible to produce clothing articles of fabric, e.g. stretch, with a reduced number of seams, starting from a fabric tube that has no longitudinal (and circumferential) seams.
• “seamless” technology includes weaving a cylindrical tube using circular knit ting machines. This cylindrical tube is then used as a base for making various textile ar ticles, such as skirts, trousers, jerseys, sleeves, muffs, legs and others.
• two cylindrical tubes are used in order to make a jersey (with sleeves), one of which, after appropriate cuts and seams in the upper portion, will constitute the trunk of the jersey, and the other one, appropriately cut and stitched again, will define the sleeves which will then be joined to the trunk.
• FIG. 1 B A fabric tube of a known type for making sleeves is shown in Figure 1 B.
• trousers long, short or half-leg
• a single cylindrical tube which is suitably cut in its lower part and then stitched together so as to have an upper bodice from which two lower legs are derived.
• FIG. 1 A A fabric tube of a known type for making trousers is shown in Figure 1 A.
• the production of a textile article involves the production of parts of the tube (defined by the por tion of the design without the hatching of the fabric tube) which are destined to be dis carded (i.e. represent production scraps); such production waste represents a not negli gible waste of raw material and colour (if the fabric is dyed), which impacts on the sus tainability of the finished product and its production costs.
• One object of the present invention is to meet these needs of the prior art and other needs which will become apparent in the following, within the framework of a simple, rational and low-cost solution.
• the invention particularly makes available a method for making at least one textile arti cle which comprises:
• forming the fabric tube comprises: o weaving a conical section wound around the longitudinal axis of the fabric tube, wherein the conical section is formed by a plurality of courses having an axially increasing number of stitches from a minimum number of stitch es to a maximum number of stitches; the method further comprising:
• the generatrices can be diametrically op posed.
• the step of forming the fabric tube can comprise: o weaving at least one cylindrical section wound around the longitudinal axis of the fabric tube consecutive to the conical section, wherein the cylindri cal section is formed by a plurality of courses having a number of stitches equal to at least one between the maximum number of stitches the mini mum number of stitches of the conical section, preferably equal to the maximum number of stitches.
• the method may comprise:
• each cutting line has a first end joining the first cut edge of one of the generatrices and a second end joining the second cut edge of the other of the generatrices.
• step of weaving the conical section precedes the step of weaving the cylindrical section.
• the step of weaving the conical section can begin by weaving the courses having the minimum number of stitches.
• a number of needles equal to half of the total number of needles of the circular machine may be used, wherein the used needles are interspersed with the unused needles, and when weaving the courses having the maximum number of stitches a number of needles equal to the total number of needles of the circular machine may be used.
• the invention makes available a textile article ob tained by means of the method as described above.
• the textile article may be a pair of trousers and comprise a bodice formed by the cylindrical section of the fabric tube and a pair of legs, wherein each leg is formed by a respective conical fabric tube formed/obtained from the conical section of the fabric tube.
• the textile article may be at least one between a pair of tubes forming legs, sleeves or muffs, wherein each tube of the pair of tubes is formed by a respective coni cal tube formed/obtained starting from the conical section of the textile tube.
• Figure 1A and Figure 1 B are schematic views of a known fabric tube respectively used to make a pair of trousers (Figure 1A) and a pair of sleeves (Figure 1 B, representing front and back views of the same fabric tube).
• Figure 2A and Figure 2B are schematic views of a fabric tube according to the inven tion, respectively used to make a pair of trousers (Figure 2A) and a pair of sleeves (Fig ure 2B).
• Figure 3A and Figure 3B are views of the in-plane developments of the fabric tubes in Figure 2A and Figure 2B, respectively.
• Figure 4A and Figure 4B are schematic axonometric views, respectively, of a pair of trousers obtained starting from a fabric tube of Figure 2A, and a pair of sleeves obtained starting from a fabric tube of Figure 2B.
• Figure 5 is a view of a flow chart of the method for making a textile article according to the invention.
• the (finished) textile article is globally indicated by the reference number 10 and is illus trated in Figures 4A and 4B.
• the manufacturing method is based on the use of a circular knitting textile machine with “seamless” technology.
• the textile machine comprises at least one supporting structure, a cylinder rotatably mounted in the supporting structure, and a plurality of needles supported by the cylinder and movable parallel to an axis of rotation of the cylinder to produce a knitted fabric in the form of a "seamless” fabric tube 5, better described below.
• the term "cir cular knitting textile machine” means a circular textile machine suitable for the produc tion of seamless knitted textile articles having at least one drop.
• Such textile machines can be, for example, of the single-needle or double-needle type (i.e., for example with a needle plate or with a double cylinder). These machines may be with continuous or reciprocating motion.
• the circular textile machine also comprises one or more devices for feeding a yarn, for example an elastic or stretch yarn (e.g. Lycra).
• a yarn for example an elastic or stretch yarn (e.g. Lycra).
• the circular textile machine further comprises an electronic control unit operatively con nected to the needles (i.e. the needle operating mechanisms) to control the operation of the textile machine.
• the electronic control unit is programmable to carry out the steps of the method for making the "seamless” fabric tube 5, described below.
• the textile machine is not described in more detail as it is of a known type.
• the method according to the invention includes forming (block S1 ) a fabric tube 5 wound on itself (in a loop) around a longitudinal axis A, by means of the circular textile machine.
• the step of forming the fabric tube 5 comprises weaving (block S1.1), for example first, a conical section 51 (i.e. truncated conical) wound around the longitudinal axis A, wherein the longitudinal axis is the central axis of the conical section 51 of the fabric tube 5.
• a conical section 51 i.e. truncated conical wound around the longitudinal axis A, wherein the longitudinal axis is the central axis of the conical section 51 of the fabric tube 5.
• the conical section 51 is formed by a plurality of courses having an axially increasing number of stitches (in a continuous or discontinuous manner) from a minimum number of stitches, for example at a free end of the conical section 51 , to a maximum number of stitches, for example at an opposed end of the conical section 51 .
• the free end of the conical section 51 defines a tapered free end of the fabric tube 5.
• the weaving of the free end of the conical section 51 in cludes making a closing flap (anti-unravelling).
• the circular textile machine is pro grammed to start by weaving the courses having the minimum number of stitches (i.e. starting the production of the fabric tube 5 from the free end of the conical section 51).
• the method in- eludes (programming the circular textile machine so as to) use a number of needles equal to half of the total number of needles of the circular textile machine, whereby the used needles are interspersed (alternated) with the unused needles.
• the textile machine in order to weave the courses having the minimum number of stitches, is programmed to work with only the odd numbered needles or only with the even numbered needles of the plurality of needles.
• the method further includes increasing the number of stitches (and hence of needles used) as the weaving of the conical section 51 of the fabric tube 5 progresses from the free end (having one or more courses with minimum stitch number) towards the op posed end (having one or more courses with maximum stitch number).
• the increase of the stitches is programmed according to a predefined growth trend depending on the conical shape to be assumed by the conical section 51 .
• the conical section 51 may be formed by a plurality of concentric and con secutive (cylindrical) course bands (from the free end to the opposed end of the conical section 51), wherein between two consecutive course bands the one closest to the free end of the conical section 51 has a smaller number of stitches than the one closest to the opposed end of the conical section 51 .
• the method in cludes (programming the circular textile machine so as to) use a number of needles equal to the total number of needles of the circular textile machine.
• the textile machine in order to weave the courses having the maximum number of stitches, is programmed to work with all odd numbered needles and with all the even numbered needles of the plurality of needles.
• the step of forming the fabric tube 5 comprises weaving (block S1.2), for example sub sequently and consecutively to weaving the conical section 51 , a cylindrical section 52 wound around the longitudinal axis A, wherein the longitudinal axis is the central axis of the cylindrical section 52 and is coaxial to the central axis of the conical section 51 of the fabric tube 5.
• the cylindrical section 52 is formed by one or more courses having an axially constant number of stitches, for example equal to the maximum number of stitches.
• the cylindrical section 52 has a free end (opposed to the free end of the con ical section 51), which defines an enlarged free end of the fabric tube 5, and an op- posed end, which is connected (or interconnected) to the opposed end of the conical section 51 .
• the circular textile machine is programmed to start by weaving the courses from the opposed end (continuing with those of the opposed end of the conical section 51 , towards the free end).
• the method includes (programming the circular textile machine so as to) use a number of needles equal to the total number of needles of the circular textile machine.
• the weaving of the free end of the cylindrical section 52 may include making an additional closing flap (anti-ravelling).
• the fabric tube 5 may have (at one between the conical section 51 and the cylindrical section 52) structured areas (not illustrated) with particular compression and/or elasticity characteristics such as to give the fabric tube a particular anatomical shape depending on the area of the body it is intended to cover.
• the method includes manufacturing (block S2) a textile article 10, for example as described below.
• the textile article 10 may be a garment (finished or semi-finished), such as for example illustrated in Figure 4A, or a part of a garment intended to define a finished garment, such as for example illustrated in Figure 4B.
• a garment finished or semi-finished
• a pair of trousers starting from a (single) fabric tube 5 (as described above).
• the pair of trousers will have a (upper) bodice and two (lower) legs joined at the top of the bodice.
• the bodice of the pair of trousers is defined (exclusively) by (all of) the cylindrical sec tion 52 of the fabric tube 5 and the legs are defined (exclusively) by (all of) the conical section 51 of the same fabric tube 5, as better described below.
• the axial length of the conical section 51 defines the length of the legs.
• the manufacturing step comprises cutting (block S2.1 ) axially at least a portion of the (only) conical section 51 along a pair of generatrices C1 and C2.
• the step of cutting along each of the generatrices C1 and C2 produces a (straight) cut involving all (and only) of the conical section 51 (from the free end to the opposed end thereof).
• generatrices C1 and C2 along which the cut develops are diametrically opposed.
• the cut along each generatrix C1 and C2 defines/generates a first cut edge C1.1 and C2.1 (straight) and a second cut edge C1 .2 and C2.2 (straight).
• the conical section 51 by means of the two cuts along the generatrices C1 and C2 is subdivided into two half-cones, each of which is delimited in the circumferen tial direction by a first cut edge C1.1 or C2.1 and by a second cut edge C2.2 and C1.1 (wherein the opposed end of each half-cone is joined to the opposed end of the cylindri cal section 52).
• the manufacturing step includes joining (block S.2.3) together, preferably by sew ing, the first cut edge C1 .1 and C2.1 of each generatrix C1 and C2 respectively with the second cut edge C2.2 and C1 .2 of the other generatrix C2 and C1 , so as to form two respective (identical) conical tube 15.
• each seam develops longitudinally along a generatrix of the respective coni cal tube 15.
• the upper end of the seams joins together to define a crotch area of the trousers.
• a part of a garment such as a pair of sleeves (to be joined to a bodice (not illustrated), e.g. made starting from a further fabric tube, for example, ac cording to a traditional method) from a (single) fabric tube 5 (as described above).
• Each sleeve of the pair of sleeves includes a muff (tube) associated with a joining brim (delimiting the shoulder), for joining the sleeve with the bodice.
• each sleeve is defined (exclusively) by (a portion of) the cylindrical section 52 of the fabric tube 5 and the muff of each sleeve is defined (exclusively) by (a portion, i.e. half, of) the conical section 51 of the same fabric tube 5, as further de scribed below.
• the axial length of the conical section 52 defines the length of the muff of each sleeve.
• the manufacturing step comprises cutting (block S2.1 ) axially at least a portion of the (only) conical section 51 along a pair of generatrices C1 and C2.
• the step of cutting along each of the generatrices C1 and C2 produces a (straight) cut involving all (and only) of the conical section 51 (from the free end to the opposed end thereof).
• generatrices C1 and C2 along which the cut develops are diametrically opposed.
• the cut along each generatrix C1 and C2 defines/generates a first cut edge C1.1 and C2.1 (straight) and a second cut edge C1 .2 and C2.2 (straight).
• the conical section 51 by means of the two cuts along the generatrices C1 and C2 is subdivided into two half-cones, each of which is delimited in the circumferen tial direction by a first cut edge C1 .1 or C2.1 and by a second cut edge C2.2 and C1 .2 (wherein the opposed end of each half-cone is joined to the opposed end of the cylindri cal section 52).
• the manufacturing step comprises cutting (block S2.2) the cylindrical section 51 along two (distinct) cutting lines C3, wherein each cutting line C3 has a cusp-like or variously conformed shape (defined by a conformed broken line) and has a first end (at the opposed end of the cylindrical section 52) joining the upper end of the first cut edge C1.1 or C2.1 of one of the generatrices C1 or C2, and a second end (also at the opposed end of the cylindrical section 52) joining the second cut edge C2.2 and C1 .2 of the other of the generatrices C2 or C1 .
• each cutting line C3 has a cusp-like or variously conformed shape (defined by a conformed broken line) and has a first end (at the opposed end of the cylindrical section 52) joining the upper end of the first cut edge C1.1 or C2.1 of one of the generatrices C1 or C2, and a second end (also at the opposed end of the cylindrical section 52) joining the second cut edge C2.2 and C1 .2 of the
• the cut along the cutting line C3 separates the fabric tube 5 into two sepa rate portions, each of which consisting of the aforesaid half-cone and a joining brim cir cumscribed perimetrically between (the cut edge along) the cutting line C3 and the (half of) the end course defining the opposed end of the cylindrical section 52 and/or the con ical section 51 .
• the manufacturing step includes joining (block S.2.3) together, preferably by sew ing, the first cut edge C1 .1 and C2.1 of each generatrix C1 and C2 respectively with the second cut edge C2.2 and C1 .2 of the other generatrix C2 and C1 , so as to form two respective (identical) conical tube 15 defining the aforesaid muff of each sleeve.
• each seam develops longitudinally along a generatrix of the respective coni cal tube 15.
• the aforesaid method in a simplified form, can lead to the formation of a garment such as a pair of muffs or a pair of legs.
• making the fabric tube 5 may not include the step of weav ing the cylindrical section 52, i.e. the fabric tube 5 may consist of (entirely) only the con ical section 51 (without the need to include any cylindrical section 52).
• the manufacturing step e.g. for making the pair of sleeves

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
• Knitting Machines (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

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• 2021
  • 2021-05-19 IT IT102021000012941A patent/IT202100012941A1/it unknown
• 2022
  • 2022-04-29 IL IL308462A patent/IL308462A/en unknown
  • 2022-04-29 EP EP25198049.6A patent/EP4628637A3/de active Pending
  • 2022-04-29 WO PCT/IB2022/053996 patent/WO2022243771A1/en not_active Ceased
  • 2022-04-29 CN CN202280034422.3A patent/CN117321259A/zh active Pending
  • 2022-04-29 EP EP22721497.0A patent/EP4341476B1/de active Active

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