EP4510996A1 - Vegane halbfeste kosmetische zusammensetzung - Google Patents

Vegane halbfeste kosmetische zusammensetzung

Info

Publication number
EP4510996A1
EP4510996A1 EP23748656.8A EP23748656A EP4510996A1 EP 4510996 A1 EP4510996 A1 EP 4510996A1 EP 23748656 A EP23748656 A EP 23748656A EP 4510996 A1 EP4510996 A1 EP 4510996A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
vegan
composition
solid composition
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23748656.8A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Monika LUSHKA
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US17/864,646 external-priority patent/US12343413B2/en
Priority claimed from FR2210898A external-priority patent/FR3141063A1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4510996A1 publication Critical patent/EP4510996A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the present disclosure is drawn to cosmetic compositions, and specifically vegan, semi- solid, pigmented, stable cosmetic compositions.
  • cosmetic compositions including, e.g., mascara compositions
  • a vegan anhydrous semi-solid cosmetic composition may be provided.
  • the composition may include at least 30% by weight of an organic solvent.
  • the composition may include a rheology modifier system that utilizes disteardimomum hectonte and silica silylate, where a ratio R1 of a percent by weight of disteardimomum hectorite to silica silylate is 2.1 ⁇ R1 ⁇ 6
  • the composition may include 5-15% by weight of waxes, the waxes comprising a hard wax and a soft wax.
  • the composition may include a particulate consisting of a pigment, a pearlescent agent, a filler, or a combination thereof.
  • the composition may include at least 30% by weight of the particulate. In some embodiments, the particulate may include 10-25% by weight of the composition of a filler. In some embodiments, the particulate may include 10-25% by weight of the composition of a pigment, a pearlescent agent, or a combination thereof.
  • the composition may include 3-5% by weight of the rheology modifier system.
  • the composition may include 30-40% by weight of the organic solvent.
  • the organic solvent may include a hydrocarbon-based oil, a glycol, and a carbonate.
  • the composition may include 7.5-12.5% by weight of waxes.
  • the waxes may be selected such that a ratio R2 of a percent by weight of total hard waxes to total soft waxes is 1.8 ⁇ R2 ⁇ 3.5.
  • the composition may include anon-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • the composition may consist of the organic solvent, the rheology modifier system, the waxes, the particulate, the non-volatile silicone oil, and a film former.
  • the film former may consist of three silicone-based film formers.
  • a cosmetic product may be provided that includes a hand-held container (such as a tube, bottle, or jar) and a vegan anhydrous semi-solid composition as disclosed herein.
  • a hand-held container such as a tube, bottle, or jar
  • a vegan anhydrous semi-solid composition as disclosed herein.
  • the present disclosure allows for production of cosmetic compositions that are, e.g, vegan, long-wear, highly pigmented semi-solid anhydrous hot pour formulation with a cream or mousse-like texture that delivers matte and pearly shades for multi-use application (e.g., eye, lip, and face).
  • cosmetic compositions that are, e.g, vegan, long-wear, highly pigmented semi-solid anhydrous hot pour formulation with a cream or mousse-like texture that delivers matte and pearly shades for multi-use application (e.g., eye, lip, and face).
  • texture is an important, subjective characteristic of a composition
  • the term "substantially free” means that there is less than 1% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less than about 0.75 wt.%, less than about 0.5 wt.%, less than about 0.25 wt.%, less than about 0.1 wt.%, or none of the specified material.
  • stable means that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization for a period of time, for example, for at least 1 day (24 hours), one week, one month, or one year.
  • volatile means having a flash point of less than 100°C.
  • non-volatile means having a flash point of 100°C or greater.
  • all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1-5 includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
  • a vegan anhydrous semi-solid cosmetic composition may be provided.
  • the composition may include an organic solvent, a rheology modifier system, waxes, and a particulate.
  • the composition may be free of surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • the composition may include at least 30% by weight of an organic solvent. In some embodiments, the composition may include 30-40% by weight of the organic solvent. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a polyol, and a carbonate. In some embodiments, the composition may consist of a hydrocarbon-based oil, a polyol, and a carbonate. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise a hydrocarbonbased oil, a glycol, and a carbonate. In some embodiments, the composition may consist of a hydrocarbon-based oil, a glycol, and a carbonate. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of both a glycol and a carbonate.
  • the organic solvent may include a hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.).
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • branched Cs-Ci4 alkanes for instance Cs-Ci4 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl;
  • short-chain esters such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate;
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from Ch to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, com oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter; or
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is apolar (thus formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms).
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from hydrocarbonbased oils containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular the apolar oils described previously.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is a branched Cs-Cii alkane, and more preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is isododecane.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in an amount of 30- 40% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be present in an amount of 35-40% by weight of the composition.
  • the organic solvent may include a polyol.
  • the polyol may be a liquid polyol at ambient temperature, C2-C8, preferably C3-C6, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
  • the organic solvent may include a glycol.
  • the glycol may be a Cs-Cs glycol.
  • the Cs-Cs glycol may be linear or branched.
  • the C3-C8 glycol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • Non-limiting examples of glycols include propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • the glycol is caprylyl glycol.
  • the polyol may be present in an amount of 0.5-5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in an amount of 0.5-2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of the polyol.
  • the organic solvent may include a carbonate.
  • the carbonate may be an alkyl or alkylene carbonate.
  • the alkylene chain(s) of the alkylene carbonate(s) and/or the alkyl radical(s) of the alkyl carbonate(s) may include from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • the alkylene chain(s) may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • the sum of the carbons of the alkylene chain(s) of alkylene carbonate(s) present in the composition range from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. In some embodiments, the sum of the carbons of the alkyl group(s) of the alkyl carbonate(s) present in the composition range from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the alkylene carbonate may have a structure according to formula (1): where R' denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; R" represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci- G, alkyl radical, a linear or branched Ci-Cr hydroxyalkyl radical; and m is 1, 2 or 3.
  • the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxy alkyl radical
  • R" represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C2 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl radical
  • m l
  • the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), ethyl (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), hydroxymethyl (R — — CH2OH; corresponding to glyceryl carbonate).
  • the carbonate is an alkylene carbonate. In some embodiments, the alkalene carbonate is propylene carbonate.
  • the alkyl carbonate may have a structure according to formula (2):
  • the radical R' represents a linear C1-C3 alkyl radical, a linear C1-C2 hydroxy alkyl radical; and R" represents a linear C1-C3 alkyl radical, a linear C1-C2 hydroxy alkyl radical.
  • the carbonate may be an alkyl carbonate.
  • the alkyl carbonate may be diethyl carbonate and/or dipropyl carbonate.
  • the carbonate may be present in an amount of 0.5-5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the carbonate may be present in an amount of 0.9- 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of the carbonate.
  • the composition may include a rheology modifier system that comprises or consists of disteardimonium hectorite and silica silylate.
  • the disteardimonium hectorite and silica silylate may be present in sufficient amounts such that a ratio R1 of a percent by weight of disteardimonium hectorite to a percent by weight of silica silylate is 2.1 ⁇ R1 ⁇ 6. That is, if the formula comprises 1.0% by weight of silica silylate, the disteardimonium hectonte is present in an amount of 2.1 -6% by weight of the composition.
  • the ratio R1 is 2.1 ⁇ R1 ⁇ 4.
  • the ratio R1 is 2.1 ⁇ R1 ⁇ 3.
  • the composition may include 3-5% by weight of the rheology modifier system. In some embodiments, the composition may include 3.5-4.5% by weight of the rheology modifier system.
  • the composition may include 3-4% by weight of the hectorite, and 1-1.5% by weight of the silica silylate. In some embodiments, the composition may include 1.4% by weight of the silica silylate.
  • the composition is free, or substantially free, of any other rheology modifiers.
  • the composition may include 5-15% by weight of waxes, the waxes comprising a hard wax and a soft wax.
  • the waxes may include a plurality of hard waxes.
  • the waxes may include one hard wax.
  • the waxes may include a plurality of soft waxes.
  • the waxes may include one soft wax.
  • wax is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (about 25 °C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e., 105 Pa), which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state and which has a melting point of greater than 30 °C, and in some embodiments, greater than about 55 °C up to about 120 °C, or even as high as about 200 °C.
  • soft wax refers to waxes which have a melting point of below about 60° C.
  • hard wax refers to waxes other than soft waxes - that is, waxes which have a melting point of equal to or greater than about 60° C.
  • Non-limiting examples of soft waxes may include paraffin wax and ceresin wax.
  • Non-limiting examples of hard waxes may include carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, synthetic beeswax, and ozokerite.
  • the composition may include 7.5-12.5% by weight of waxes.
  • the waxes may be selected such that a ratio R2 of a percent by weight of total hard waxes to a percent by weight of total soft waxes is 1.8 ⁇ R2 ⁇ 3.5.
  • the composition may include 4.5-7% by weight of hard waxes. In some embodiments, the composition may include 2-3% by weight of soft waxes.
  • the composition may include a particulate consisting of a pigment, a pearlescent agent, a filler, or a combination thereof.
  • the composition may include particulates in an amount of at least 30% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition may include particulates in an amount of 30-40% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition may include particulates in an amount of 30-35% by weight of the composition.
  • the particulate may include 10-25% by weight of the composition of a pigment, a pearlescent agent, or a combination thereof.
  • the particular may include a pigment.
  • pigment refers generally to inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Said pigments may optionally be surface-treated within the scope of the present invention but are not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.
  • suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index under the reference CI 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under references CI 77,499, 77, 492 and, 77,491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77,007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and ferric blue (CI 77,510) and mixtures thereof.
  • organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 45,425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 15,985), D&C Red No. 30 (CI 73,360), D&C Red No. 3 (CI 45,430) and the dye or lakes based on cochineal carmine (CI 75,570) and mixtures thereof.
  • D&C Red No. 19 CI 45,170
  • a plurality of pigments are present.
  • the composition may include 0.1-25% by weight of a pigment. In some embodiments, the composition may include 1-20% by weight of a pigment. In some embodiments, the composition may include 5-20% by weight of a pigment. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of a pigment. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of a pigment.
  • the particulate may include a pearlescent agent.
  • pearlescent agents refers to colored particles of any shape, which are or are not iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shells or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect via optical interference. Such pearlescent agents are distinct from the pigments described herein.
  • the pearlescent agents may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxy chloride.
  • natural mica covered with titanium oxide examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxy chloride.
  • nacres available on the market mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.
  • pearlescent agents which can be used in the context of the present invention, of pearlescent agents of gold color sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-coloured pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Nu- Antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); pearlescent agents with a copper glint sold in particular
  • the pearlescent agent is mica.
  • the composition may include 0. 1-10% by weight of a pearlescent agent. In some embodiments, the composition may include 1-9% by weight of a pearlescent agent. In some embodiments, the composition may include 2-8% by weight of a pearlescent agent. In some embodiments, the composition may include 3-7% by weight of a pearlescent agent. In some embodiments, the composition may include 4-6% by weight of a pearlescent agent. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of a pearlescent agent. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of a pearlescent agent.
  • the particulate may include a filler.
  • filler refers to a particle of organic or inorganic nature which is colourless or white, which is solid, which has any shape and which is insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition.
  • inorganic refers to any compound, the chemical structure of which does not comprise a carbon atom. Such fillers are distinct from the pigments and pearlescent agents described herein.
  • the fillers may not be surface-coated.
  • the fillers may be surface-coated, and in particular they can be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
  • the fillers may be spherical, that is to say compnse at least a rounded general portion, preferably defining at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, and the like), or lamellar.
  • Non-limiting examples of fillers include:
  • silica powders such as the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Miyoshi or Sunsphere® H-51 or Sunsphere® H-33 by Asahi Glass; or the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H-33 or SA Sunsphere® H-53 by Asahi Glass;
  • polyurethane powders for example sold under the names Plastic Powder D-400, Plastic Powder CS-400, Plastic Powder D-800 and Plastic Powder T-75 by Toshiki,
  • silicone powders advantageously chosen from: poly methylsilsesqui oxane powders, in particular those sold under the name Tospearl, in particular Tospearl 145 A, by Momentive Performance Materials, organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, such as the products sold under the name KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 or KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu (INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer), powders of silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the name Trefil® Powder E-505C or Trefil® Powder E-506C by Dow Coming, powders of organosilicone particles, for example, in the form of bowls, such as those described in JP-2003 128 788 or JP-A-2000-191789 or also in Application EP 1 579 841 and
  • polyamide powders such as Nylon® powders, in particular Nylon 12 powders, such as the nylon powders sold under the name Orgasol® 2002 EXS NAT COS by Arkema,
  • powders of natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders and in particular starch powders, especially crosslinked or non-crosslinked maize, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked by octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry- Flo® by National Starch or powders of waxy maize starch, such as those which are sold under the names C* Gel 04201 by Cargill, Maize Starch B by Roquette and Organic Com Starch by Draco Natural Products,
  • natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders and in particular starch powders, especially crosslinked or non-crosslinked maize, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked by octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry- Flo® by National Starch or powders of waxy maize starch, such as those which are sold under the names C* Gel 04201 by Cargill, Maize Starch B by Roquette and Organic Com Starch by Draco Natural Products,
  • spherical cellulose microparticles such as Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo
  • particles of N — (C8-C22 acylated) amino acids can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine, for example Amihope LL from Ajinomoto or also that which is sold under the name Corum 5105 S by Comm,
  • Perlite powders such as those sold by World Minerals under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040 or OpTiMatTM 1430 OR 2550 OR, Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by Imerys,
  • zeolites such as the products sold by Zeochem under the names Zeoflair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-Mol and X-Mol MT, and
  • talc particles for example sold under the names Luzenac Pharma M and UM by Imery s and Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc.
  • use may also be made of natural or synthetic mica particles, such as those sold under the names Mica M RP and Silk Mica by Merck or also that sold under the name Sericite S-152-BC by Miyoshi Kasei; calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogencarbonate; hydroxyapatite; boron nitride; fluorphlogopite; and their mixtures.
  • natural or synthetic mica particles such as those sold under the names Mica M RP and Silk Mica by Merck or also that sold under the name Sericite S-152-BC by Miyoshi Kasei; calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogencarbonate; hydroxyapatite; boron nitride; fluorphlogopite; and their mixtures.
  • the spherical fillers may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and their mixtures.
  • the N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds can be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl cited in the abovementioned compounds denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the filler is synthetic fluorphlogopite.
  • the composition may include 10-25% by weight of a filler. In some embodiments, the composition may include 10-15% by weight of a filler. In some embodiments, the composition may include 15-25% by weight of a filler. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of a filler. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of a filler.
  • the composition may include a non-volatile silicone oil.
  • Non-limiting examples of non-volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates.
  • the non-volatile silicone oil is caprylyl methicone.
  • the composition may include 0.1-10% by weight of a nonvolatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include 1-9% by weight of a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include 2-8% by weight of a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include 3-7% by weight of a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include 4- 6% by weight of a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of a non-volatile silicone oil.
  • the composition may include a film former (sometimes referred to as a film forming agent”). In some embodiments, the composition may include one film former. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of film formers. In some embodiments, the composition may include three silicone-based film formers.
  • the term “Film former” or “film forming agent” or “film forming polymer” or “film forming resin” refers to a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate.
  • the film forming agents may have at least one glass transition temperature (T g ) which is lower than normal human body temperature (98.6° F.). In some embodiments, the at least one film forming agents may have all of its glass transition temperature(s) below normal human body temperature (98.6° F ).
  • T g property of the at least one film forming agent may result from various ways known in the art such as, for example, the T g of the film forming agent itself, the combination of different film forming agents to achieve a T g lower than normal human body temperature, or the combination of film forming agent(s) and plasticizer(s) to achieve a Tg lower than normal human body temperature.
  • film forming agents examples include acrylic polymers, silicone resins, silicone acrylate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone (VP) containing homopolymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyolefins and mixtures thereof.
  • acrylic polymers silicone resins, silicone acrylate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone (VP) containing homopolymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyolefins and mixtures thereof.
  • VP vinyl pyrrolidone
  • the film forming agent(s) may be a silicone resin, a silicone acrylate copolymer, an acrylate copolymer, or a mixture thereof.
  • acrylate copolymer generally refers to a copolymer comprising at least one acrylate (including methacrylate) monomer. Copolymers are polymers derived from more than a single species of monomer, and include bipolymers, terpolymers and quaterpolymers, build from two, three and four different monomers, respectively. Acrylate copolymers as referred to herein may have monomers arranged in different structures, such as linear or branched, and block copolymers. Thus, acrylate copolymers may have different arrangements, but all comprise at least two different monomers, one of which is an acrylate monomer.
  • the term “resin” means a crosslinked or non-crosslinked three- dimensional structure.
  • Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art as “MDTQ” nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the various monomeric siloxane units which make up the polymer.
  • MDTQ denotes a different type of unit.
  • M denotes the monofunctional unit (CH3)3SiOi/2. This unit is considered to be monofunctional because the silicone atom only shares on oxygen when the unit is part of a polymer.
  • the “M” unit can be represented by the following structure:
  • At least one of the methyl groups of the M unit may be replaced by another group, e.g., to give a unit with formula [R(CH3)2]SiOi/2, as represented in the following structure: wherein R is chosen from groups other than methyl groups.
  • groups other than methyl groups include alkyl groups other than methyl groups, alkene groups, alkyne groups, hydroxyl groups, thiol groups, ester groups, acid groups, ether groups, wherein the groups other than methyl groups may be further substituted.
  • D denotes the difunctional unit (CEE ⁇ SiCh/? wherein two oxygen atoms bonded to the silicone atom are used for binding to the rest of the polymer.
  • the “D” unit which is the major building block of dimethicone oils, can be represented as:
  • At least one of the methyl groups of the D unit may be replaced by another group, e.g., to give a unit with formula [R(CH3)2]SiOi/2.
  • T denotes the trifunctional unit, (CHsjSiOs/? and can be represented as:
  • At least one of the methyl groups of the T unit may be replaced by another group, e.g., to give a unit with formula [R(CH3)2]SiOi/2.
  • the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
  • silicone polymers can be manufactured. Further, it would be clear to one skilled in the art that the properties of each of the potential silicone polymers will vary depending on the type(s) of monomer(s), the type(s) of substitution(s), the size of the polymeric chain, the degree of cross linking, and size of any side chain(s).
  • Resin MQ which is available from Wacker, General Electric and Dow Coming, is an example of an acceptable commercially-available siloxysilicate.
  • trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) is commercially available from General Electric under the tradename SR1000 and from Wacker under the tradename TMS 803.
  • TMS is also commercially available from Dow Chemical in a solvent, such as for example, cyclomethicone.
  • Non-limiting examples of silicon resin comprising at least one T unit are disclosed, for example, in U.S. patent applications 2007/0166271, 2011/0038820, 2011/0002869, and 2009/0214458, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.
  • the silicone resin contains at least one T unit, it may thus be, for example, a T, MT, MTQ or MDTQ resin.
  • the unit composition of the silicone resin can be at least 50% T units, or at least 70% T units, or at least 80% T units, or at least 90% T units.
  • At least one of the methyl groups may be substituted.
  • at least one silicone resin comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula (R)SiOs/2 may be chosen from the silsesquioxanes of formula: ((R')SiO3/2)x, in which x ranges from 100 to 500 and R' is chosen, independently by trifunctional unit, from a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, on the condition that at least one R' is a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is a methyl group.
  • the at least one silicone resin comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula (R)SiO3/2 is chosen from the silsesquioxanes of the formula: ((R')SiO3/2)x, in which x ranges from 100 to 500 and R' is chosen, independently by unit, from CEE, a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, on the condition that at least one R' is a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the T resins may contain M, D and Q units such that at least 80 mol % or at least 90 mol %, relative to the total amount of silicones, are T units.
  • the T resins may also contain hydroxyl and/or alkoxy groups.
  • the T resins may have a total weight of hydroxyl functions ranging from 2% to 10% and a total weight of alkoxy functions that may be up to 20%; in some embodiments, the total weight of hydroxyl functions ranges from 4% to 8% and the total weight of alkoxy functions may be up to 10%.
  • the silicone resin may be chosen from silsesquioxanes that are represented by the following fonnula: ((CH3)SiO3/2)x, in which x may be up to several thousand and the CEE group may be replaced with an R group, as described previously in the definition of the T units.
  • the number x of T units of the silsesquioxane may be less than or equal to 500, or it may range from 50 to 500, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the molecular weight of the silicone resin may range from 500 to 50,000 g/mol, from 500 to 20,000 g/mol, or from 500 to 10,000 g/mol, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • Non-limiting examples of these silicone resins containing at least one T unit include:
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which R is a methyl group.
  • Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,246,694, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety;
  • polymethylsilsesquioxane resins examples include those sold by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CPESiChfi repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2/2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g/mol. It is thought that the polymer is in a “cage” and “ladder” configuration as represented in the figures below. The average molecular weight of the units in “cage” configuration has been calculated as 536 g/mol. The majority of the polymer is in the “ladder” configuration with ethoxy groups at the ends.
  • Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CPESiChfi repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2/2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g/mol.
  • ethoxy groups represent 4.5% by mass of the polymer.
  • end groups can react with water, a small and variable amount of SiOH groups may also be present; and by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR- 220L, which are composed of T units of formula CHsSiOs ⁇ and have Si — OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A, which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si — OH end groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si — OH end groups.
  • polypropylsilsesquioxane resins examples include those sold by the company Dow Coming under the reference Dow Coming 670 Fluid or 680 Fluid.
  • commercially available products are polypropylsilsesquioxane diluted in volatile oil such as volatile hydrocarbon oil or volatile silicone oil such as D5.
  • Dow Coming 670 and 680 Fluids have ageneral formula of RnSiO(4-n)/2 wherein R is independently chosen from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising 3 carbon atoms, wherein more than 80 mole % of R are propyl groups, n is a value from 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mole % of the copolymer comprises RSiC>3/2 units, and having a hydroxyl or alkoxy content from 0.2 to 10% by weight, for example between 1 and 4% by weight, preferably between 5 and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 6 and 8% by weight.
  • the polypropylsilsesqui oxane resin has a molecular weight from about 5000 to about 30,000 and a Tg from about -5° C. to about 5° C.
  • polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins examples include those sold by the company Dow Coming under the reference Dow Coming 217 Flake Resin, which is a polyphenylsilsesquioxane with silanol end groups; and by the company Wacker under the reference Belsil SPR 45 VP.
  • the film forming agent include trimethylsiloxysilicate. In some embodiments, the film forming agent may include polypropylsilsesquioxane. In some embodiments, the film forming agent may include C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane. In some embodiments, the film forming agent may comprise or consist of trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, and C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane.
  • Silicone acrylate copolymers may include a siloxane group and a hydrocarbon group.
  • suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone such as, for example, a backbone chosen from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and/or acrylic polymers and at least one chain chosen from pendant siloxane groups, and polymers comprising a backbone of siloxane groups and at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain such as, for example, a pendant vinyl, methacrylic and/or acrylic groups.
  • the silicone acrylate copolymer may be chosen from silicone/(meth)acrylate copolymers.
  • the silicone acrylate copolymer may be selected from polymers derived from non-polar silicone copoly mers comprising repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acry late unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one non-polar silicone chain.
  • Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates/dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the tradenames KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate/dimethicone copolymer), KP- 561 (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof.
  • KP-545 cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates
  • Additional examples include the acrylate/dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Coming under the tradenames FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer) and FA 4002 ID SILICONEACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and mixtures thereof.
  • FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer
  • FA 4002 ID SILICONEACRYLATE isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer
  • silicone acrylate copolymers include silicone/ aery late graft terpolymers, or poly (dimethylsiloxane)-g-poly (isobutyl methacrylate), which is commercially available from 3M Company under the tradename VS 70 IBM.
  • the composition may consist of the organic solvent, the rheology modifier system, the waxes, the particulate, the non-volatile silicone oil, and the film former.
  • the formulations shown in Tables 1 and 2, below, may be made using an enclosed- system kettle with homogenizer capability. First, the hectorite and solvents (including the organic solvent) are homogenized to create a smooth, gel-like consistency. Next, the remaining ingredients, except for any pearlescent agents, are added and homogenized under high temperatures until a homogenous mixture is achieved. Lastly, the pearlescent agents are mixed into the batch until a uniform shade is achieved (if contained in the formula). The composition can then be hot-poured into an appropriate container, such as a hand-held container, such as a tube, bottle, or jar. Note that the formulas in Table 1, while expressing ranges, the exact values are selected so as to fall within the disclosed ranges described herein.
  • Ex. 1-4 are stable formulations having a soft creamy, mousse-like texture. Conversely, while Co. 1 contains a desirable texture, it is unstable in the form of wax and solvent separation at elevated temperatures (e.g., 30-50 °C). Co. 2 is stable (including at the elevated temperatures), but lacks the desirable texture, and is also a non-vegan formulation (e.g., containing non-vegan waxes, etc.).
  • a cosmetic product may be provided that includes a hand-held container (such as a tube, bottle, or jar) and a vegan anhydrous semi-solid composition as disclosed herein.
  • a hand-held container such as a tube, bottle, or jar
  • a vegan anhydrous semi-solid composition as disclosed herein.

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EP23748656.8A 2022-07-14 2023-07-12 Vegane halbfeste kosmetische zusammensetzung Pending EP4510996A1 (de)

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FR2210898A5 (de) 1972-11-17 1974-07-12 Sevestre Jean
GB9016100D0 (en) 1990-07-23 1990-09-05 Unilever Plc Shampoo composition
JP2000191789A (ja) 1998-12-28 2000-07-11 Takemoto Oil & Fat Co Ltd 有機シリコ―ン微粒子、その製造方法、有機シリコ―ン微粒子から成る高分子材料用改質剤及び化粧品原料
JP3701016B2 (ja) 2001-10-30 2005-09-28 竹本油脂株式会社 有機シリコーン微粒子、有機シリコーン微粒子の製造方法、高分子材料用改質剤及び化粧品原料
US20040180011A1 (en) 2003-03-13 2004-09-16 Wacker Chemical Corporation Cosmetic formulation comprising alkyl phenyl silsesquioxane resins
US7803358B2 (en) 2004-02-02 2010-09-28 Dow Corning Corporation MQ and T-propyl siloxane resins compositions
FR2867676B1 (fr) 2004-03-22 2006-06-02 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules concaves
WO2008155059A2 (de) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Kohlenwasserstoff gemische und ihre verwendung
WO2009080952A2 (fr) 2007-12-05 2009-07-02 L'oreal Procédé cosmétique de maquillage et/ou de soin utilisant une résine de siloxane et une huile non volatile
FR2927805B1 (fr) 2008-02-26 2011-01-07 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un copolymere silicone particulier, un solvant volatil et une resine de silicone particuliere.
FR2930142B1 (fr) * 2008-04-21 2010-06-04 Oreal Procede de maquillage ou de soin des cils ou des sourcils utilisant un copolymere bloc polysiloxane/polyuree
FR3030257B1 (fr) * 2014-12-18 2016-12-23 Oreal Composition comprenant des particules de polymere et un epaississant mineral, procede la mettant en oeuvre
KR102033510B1 (ko) * 2017-12-28 2019-11-08 한국콜마주식회사 아이메이크업 화장료 조성물
JP7084164B2 (ja) * 2018-03-08 2022-06-14 日本精化株式会社 難溶性成分を含有する化粧料
CN113383033A (zh) * 2018-12-27 2021-09-10 陶氏东丽株式会社 有机硅树脂被覆有机硅弹性体粒子和有机树脂添加剂及其他用途

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