EP4514311A1 - Produit d'éclaircissement capillaire oxydant à comportement de gonflement contrôlé - Google Patents

Produit d'éclaircissement capillaire oxydant à comportement de gonflement contrôlé

Info

Publication number
EP4514311A1
EP4514311A1 EP23715796.1A EP23715796A EP4514311A1 EP 4514311 A1 EP4514311 A1 EP 4514311A1 EP 23715796 A EP23715796 A EP 23715796A EP 4514311 A1 EP4514311 A1 EP 4514311A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
acid
oxidative hair
hair lightening
agent
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23715796.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Bernd Anderheggen
Anja Reichert
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP4514311A1 publication Critical patent/EP4514311A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/24—Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to oxidative hair lightening agents, in particular bleaching powders and bleaching pastes, with a reduced content of biodegradable complexing agent, which can also be used on hair with a higher metal or .Do not heat the heavy metal content too much and lighten the hair gently or dye it to lighten it.
  • the present invention relates to the use of the agents for gentle bleaching or oxidative lightening or for lightening dyeing of human hair as well as a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for lightening or lightening dyeing of keratin fibers, which contains an oxidative hair lightening agent and, separately, comprises an oxidizing agent preparation. Furthermore, a method for oxidative lightening or lightening dyeing of keratin fibers using said oxidative hair lightening agent and the kit comprising this oxidative hair lightening agent is described.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention is a substantially water-free oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one persalt.
  • the essentially water-free oxidative hair lightening agent is preferably in powder or paste form. Lightening one's own hair color has always been the wish of many consumers, as a blonde hair color is considered attractive and desirable from a fashion point of view. For this purpose, various bleaching agents with different bleaching performance are available on the market. The oxidizing agents contained in these products are able to lighten the hair fiber through the oxidative destruction of the hair's own dye melanin. For a moderate bleaching effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide alone - if necessary with the use of ammonia or other alkalinizing agents - is sufficient as an oxidizing agent.
  • a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and at least one compound selected from persalts, in particular peroxodisulfate salts and/or peroxomonosulfate salts is usually used.
  • the products contain higher concentrations of hydrogen peroxide and persalts, especially persulfates. Dark, dark brown or black hair can be lightened by 4 to 6 shades in one step.
  • the hydrogen peroxide and the hair lightening agent containing persalts are stored separately until use so as not to deactivate the persalts prematurely.
  • the hydrogen peroxide component which comprises an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, has an acidic pH value, in particular a pH value of 1.5 to 5.5, in particular 3 to 5, to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, each measured at 20°C.
  • the application mixture of hydrogen peroxide solution and persalt-containing hair lightening agent has an alkaline pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11. 5, preferably in the range from 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extremely preferably 9.5 - 10.0, in each case measured at 20 ° C.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention can contain, in addition to the at least one persalt, at least one powdered alkalizing agent in a total amount such that the application mixture has the desired alkaline pH value.
  • a third composition can be added to the application mixture of oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention and hydrogen peroxide solution, which contains one or more alkalizing agents in such an amount that the application mixture has an alkaline pH value in the range from 8.0 to 11.5 , preferably in the range from 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extremely preferably 9.5 - 10.3, each measured at 20 ° C.
  • oxidation dye precursors and/or direct dyes are added to the oxidative hair lightening agent, the hair can be colored at the same time.
  • Corresponding hair dyes are offered particularly for consumers with very dark, melanin-rich hair.
  • a requirement for the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention was to damage the hair as little as possible, despite the harsh chemical conditions that prevail during oxidative lightening, without impairing the quality of the lightening.
  • the active ingredients used for this should be as environmentally friendly as possible.
  • the use of complexing agents in higher concentrations to reduce hair damage in oxidative hair treatment was already known from WO2002089754A1, WO2002074272A1 and WO2002074273A1.
  • EP1714634A1 discloses a hair treatment kit for coloring human hair, comprising a first compartment with a complexing agent and a second compartment with a colorant.
  • the complexing agent should prevent undesirable reactions on and with hair, which lead to undesirable heating of the agent during the preparation of the application mixture and its exposure time on the hair.
  • Many bleaching products on the market contain HEDP (1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, etidronic acid) or its salts or EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) or its salts as complexing agents.
  • HEDP and EDTA effectively stabilize hydrogen peroxide and complex existing metal ions so efficiently that an undesirable increase in temperature that occurs during use is almost completely avoided.
  • HEDP and EDTA have been paying increasing attention to the ecological profile of the cosmetic products they use. Consumers particularly prefer cosmetics that are as sustainable as possible and contain biodegradable ingredients.
  • the use of substances of natural origin as complexing agents is also already known in the prior art.
  • FR2852834A1 discloses agents for bleaching, coloring or shaping hair, which contain the combination of at least one oxidizing agent and at least one polyhydroxycarboxylic acid contain.
  • the application properties of the agents described in this document still require improvement, especially with regard to heat development, which is particularly unfavorable in the presence of gluconic acid and its salts, and with regard to the Bleaching performance.
  • the application properties of the means disclosed in the aforementioned documents are still in need of improvement.
  • the temperature development that occurs on the hair during application still requires further optimization. Since chemical reactions occur when mixing the water-free bleaching agent (non-compressed powder or paste) with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, in which gaseous oxygen is released, the ready-to-use bleaching agent swells more and more during the time it works on the hair.
  • a content of emulsifiers can sometimes be unavoidable.
  • Certain silicone compounds can suppress foam formation, but the present bleaching products should be formulated without the addition of silicone compounds for reasons of environmental sustainability.
  • the thickeners used in the water-free bleaching powder or water-free bleaching paste are primarily responsible for the formation of foam.
  • thickeners which are essentially hydrophilic polymeric thickeners, when the water-free bleaching agent (non-compressed powder or paste) is mixed with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, cause the ready-to-use bleaching agent to take on a cream-like consistency, which initially has a good effect on the bleaching agent Can be applied to the hair, but then solidifies as much as possible on the hair during the exposure time so that it does not drip down the hair or flow onto the scalp.
  • a further requirement for the present bleaching agents was the avoidance of polymers which, as chain-forming monomers, include acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidones, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol and/or styrenes. Therefore, the hydrophilic polymeric thickeners should be based on natural raw materials. Furthermore, when mixing the anhydrous bleaching agent with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, as little reaction heat as possible should develop in order not to thermally irritate the scalp. Preliminary tests showed that heat development can be influenced by the choice of complexing agent. But the choice of thickener also plays a certain role here.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents in particular bleaching agents or agents for oxidative color change
  • biodegradable complexing agents which, in terms of their bleaching performance, are as superior as possible to the bleaching or lightening agents known from the prior art .
  • the bleaching agents should have a sufficiently high level of stability and should not heat up too much when used on hair with a higher metal or heavy metal content.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents in particular bleaching agents or agents for oxidative color change, which are optimally suitable for use on the hairline, i.e. near the scalp.
  • the bleaching agent must be strong enough to effectively lighten the undamaged, stable and therefore particularly difficult to lighten root hair.
  • the skin irritation potential of the ready-to-use bleaching agent must be kept as low as possible, since when the agent is applied to the root hair, at least small amounts of the agent can inevitably come into contact with the scalp.
  • the ready-to-use product should develop a creamy, compact consistency after application to the hair and form a crust.
  • the volume development during the production of the ready-to-use bleaching agent should be minimized, which is particularly important when using the agent with the help of foils to achieve highlights.
  • the ingredients used should be as ecologically sustainable as possible. Surprisingly, these tasks were solved by the subject matter of the claims.
  • the complexing agents b) are described as biodegradable and therefore represent an ecologically advantageous replacement for HEDP and EDTA.
  • keratin-containing or keratinic fibers are understood to mean in particular human hair, but also fur, wool and feathers.
  • a first subject of the present invention is an oxidative hair lightening agent for lightening or coloring the hair in a lightening manner, containing a) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, b) furthermore at least one complexing agent selected from Complexing agents of the general formula (I), where R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and not simultaneously represent
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent which is essentially anhydrous with 0 to 10% by weight of water, is preferably in powder, tablet, granulated or paste form.
  • the term “powder” or “powdery” means a free-flowing dosage form made up of individual particles that is solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar and in which the individual particles have particle sizes in the range from 0.1 ⁇ m to a maximum of 1.6 mm.
  • the particle size distribution can preferably be determined using laser diffraction measurement in accordance with ISO 13320-1 (2009).
  • the particle size of the particles can be adapted to the requirements of the bleaching powder by physical treatment, such as sieving, pressing, granulating or pelletizing, or by adding certain auxiliary materials, for example to improve the miscibility of the individual powder components or to enable the bleaching powder to be mixed with a hydrogen peroxide preparation.
  • Bleaching powders preferred according to the invention have a bulk density in the range from 400 to 1000 g/l (grams/liter), preferably 450 to 900 g/l, particularly preferably 550 to 820 g/l.
  • the bulk density is preferably determined according to EN ISO 60 (version 01/2000) or DIN ISO 697 (version 01/1984). Unless otherwise stated, all temperature information refers to a pressure of 1013 mbar.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention can also be in tablet form.
  • a bleaching powder according to the invention is preferably pressed into a tablet.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention can also be in granule form.
  • a bleaching powder according to the invention is preferably processed into granules.
  • the terms “paste” or “pasty” are to be understood as meaning a dosage form which, at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar, has a viscosity in the range from 200,000 to 1,600,000 mPas, preferably 250,000 to 1,400,000 mPas, particularly preferably 300,000 to 1,000 ,000 mPas, extremely preferably 400,000 to 750,000 mPas.
  • the paste viscosity is preferably determined using Brookfield; RVDV II+ device; Spindle No.96, 4 revolutions per minute, at 20°C.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention contains, as a first essential component, at least one oxidizing agent which is selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof.
  • Peroxosulfuric acids are understood to mean peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro’s acid).
  • the at least one inorganic salt of a peroxosulfuric acid is selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention contains at least two different peroxodisulfates.
  • Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures. Mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate are particularly preferred, and mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate, are particularly preferred.
  • KPS potassium peroxodisulfate
  • APS ammonium peroxodisulfate
  • Preferred oxidative hair lightening agents according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent, which is selected from inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5 - 85% by weight, preferably 10 - 70% by weight, particularly preferably 17 - 55% by weight.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention contains, as a second essential component, at least one complexing agent b), selected from complexing agents of the general formula (I), where R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or a physiologically compatible salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and do not simultaneously represent a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group, M1, M2 independently of one
  • C1-C6 alkyl radicals are -CH3, -CH 2 Ch 3 , -CH 2 Ch 2 Ch 3 , -CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 Ch 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 , -(CH 2 ) 4 Ch 3 , -(CH 2 ) 5 Ch 3 .
  • Particularly preferred C 1 -C 6 -Alkyl radicals are methyl and ethyl; an extremely preferred C 1 -C 6 - Alkyl radical is methyl.
  • C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups are -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH(OH)CH3 and -CH2CH2CH2CH2OH, with -CH2CH2OH being preferred.
  • Examples of carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -Alkyl groups are HOOC-CH 2 -, HOOC-CH 2 -CH 2 -, HOOC-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, HOOC-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, HOOC-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, with the group HOOC-CH 2 - is extremely preferred according to the invention.
  • the radical R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 - alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or for a physiologically tolerated salt of a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • Physiologically tolerable salts are those salts that can be used in cosmetics under physiological conditions without any adverse effects. Examples of a physiologically acceptable salt of a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group include the sodium salt, the potassium salt and the ammonium salt of the carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • agents according to the invention which contained at least one complexing agent (a) of the general formula (I), in which the radical R1 represents a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group or a physiological a compatible salt thereof, preferably a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically tolerated salt thereof, particularly preferably the sodium salt of a carboxymethyl group.
  • the radical R1 represents a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group or a physiological a compatible salt thereof, preferably a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically tolerated salt thereof, particularly preferably the sodium salt of a carboxymethyl group.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of the general formula (I), where R1 is a carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, preferably a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, particularly preferably the sodium salt of a carboxymethyl group.
  • the radicals R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group or a physiologically tolerated one Salt thereof, wherein R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom and not simultaneously represent a carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of the general formula (I), in which one of the radicals R2 or R3 represents a hydrogen atom and the other of the radicals R2 or R3 represents a methyl group.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of the general formula (I), where R1 represents a carboxymethyl group or an alkali metal or an ammonium salt thereof, and R2 represents a methyl group and R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
  • An explicitly particularly preferred complexing agent (b) in this embodiment is N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine, which can also be referred to as 2-methyl-2',2'',2'''-nitrilotriacetic acid and with “MGDA” (methyl glycine diacetic acid) is abbreviated.
  • MGDA has CAS number 29578-05-0.
  • MGDA has the formula (I-a).
  • the alkali metal salts and ammonium salts of MGDA are also preferred according to the invention.
  • Trisodium methyl glycine diacetate is particularly preferred.
  • MGDA has a stereogenic center. Both the D form and the L form and a mixture of D and L forms are according to the invention.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b), which is selected from complexing agents (b) of the formula (I) or an alkali metal or ammonium salt of this acid, in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 1.6% by weight, extremely preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention.
  • the at least one complexing agent b) which is selected from complexing agents (b) of the formula (I) or an alkali metal or ammonium salt of this acid, in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 1.6% by weight, extremely preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b), which is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid and its alkali metal or ammonium salts, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably adds 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 1.6% by weight, extremely preferably 0.5-1.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent , is included.
  • the at least one complexing agent b which is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid and its alkali metal or ammonium salts
  • oxidative hair lightening agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b), which is selected from the sodium salts of methylglycinediacetic acid, is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0. 2 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 1.6% by weight, extremely preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent, is included.
  • the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention contains, as a third essential component, at least one salt selected from ammonium chloride and potassium chloride and mixtures thereof.
  • ammonium chloride or potassium chloride can have a very favorable effect on various application properties of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation, in particular the undesirable ones Swelling or foaming of the ready-to-use bleaching agent mixture is reduced.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that ammonium chloride is present in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably 2.0 up to 6.0% by weight, extremely preferably from 3.1-5.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • Further oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that potassium chloride is present in an amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 2.0 to 6. 0% by weight, extremely preferably from 3.1 - 5.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agents according to the invention are water-free, which in the context of the present invention means that, based on their weight, they contain 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 % by weight of water. This information refers to the free water content.
  • a content of molecularly bound water or water of crystallization that individual powder components may have is not taken into account.
  • the water content can, for example, be determined using Karl Fischer titration based on ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino acid selected from alpha-amino acids, beta-amino acids and the salts of an alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid, as well as mixtures of these substances.
  • An amino acid is a chemical compound with an amino group and a carboxylic acid group.
  • the class of amino acids includes organic compounds that contain at least one amino group (–NH2 or substituted –NR2) and a carboxy group (—COOH) as functional groups, i.e. have structural features of amines and carboxylic acids. Chemically they can be distinguished according to the position of their amino group in relation to the carboxy group.
  • alpha-position alpha-amino acids
  • beta-position alpha-amino acids
  • E-amino acids beta-amino acids
  • Alpha-amino acids and beta-amino acids with a total number of carbon atoms of C2-C20, more preferably of C2-C15, particularly preferably of C2-C10 are preferably included.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino acid (c) from the group consisting of arginine, serine, histidine, lysine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, alanine, aspartic acid, Glu- amino acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine, valine and taurine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.
  • amino acid c
  • Amino acids (c) which are extremely preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of arginine, serine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.
  • Agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino acid (c), selected from the group consisting of arginine, serine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.
  • Chiral amino acids have a stereogenic center and can occur in mirror-image forms.
  • arginine occurs in the form of L-arginine and D-arginine. Both the L form of an amino acid and its D form as well as mixtures thereof are covered by the present invention.
  • a particularly preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino acid (c) from the group consisting of L-arginine, L-serine, L-histidine, L-lysine, L-asparagine, L-glutamine, L-cysteine , L-methionine, L-tryptophan, L-alanine, L-aspartic acid, L-glutamic acid, glycine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-threonine, L-tyrosine and L-valine and taurine, the salts of the aforementioned amino acids and mixtures of these substances.
  • amino acid (c) from the group consisting of L-arginine, L-serine, L-histidine, L-lysine, L-asparagine, L-glutamine, L-cysteine , L-methionine, L-tryptophan,
  • oxidative hair lightening agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alpha-amino acid or beta-amino acid and/or its salt is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, converted to the mass of free amino acid. , preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, extremely preferably 0.4 - 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent , is included.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention contain at least one alpha-amino acid, selected from arginine, serine or at least one salt of these amino acids, in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, converted to the mass of free amino acid, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, extremely preferably 0.4 - 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • alpha-amino acid selected from arginine, serine or at least one salt of these amino acids
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention contain at least one amino acid, selected from L-arginine, L-serine or at least one salt of these amino acids, in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, converted to the mass of free amino acid, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, extremely preferably 0.4 - 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • Further oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain polyquaternium-4. Polyquaternium-4 is hydroxyethyl cellulose quaternized with diallyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Polyquaternium-4).
  • polyquaternium-4 can further optimize the swelling behavior of oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation.
  • Polyquaternium-4 is particularly preferred in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.7% by weight. , extremely preferably 0.3 - 0.5% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention can contain, in addition to the at least one persalt, at least one powdered alkalizing agent in a total amount such that the application mixture of oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention and hydrogen peroxide solution has the desired alkaline pH. has value.
  • a third composition can be added to the application mixture of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention and hydrogen peroxide solution, which contains one or more alkalizing agents in such an amount that the application mixture has an alkaline pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range from 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extremely preferably 9.5 - 10.3, each measured at 20 ° C.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents that are particularly preferred according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar in a total amount of 4 - 70% by weight, preferably 10 - 60% by weight, particularly preferably 15 - 50% by weight .-%, furthermore particularly preferably 20-55% by weight, extremely preferably 30-40% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • Further oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent which is solid at 20° C. and 1013 mbar, including in a total amount of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 4 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 10%.
  • At least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O-9HUKlOWQLV ⁇ YRQ ⁇ EHYRU]XJW ⁇ -3.5.
  • Further oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalinizing agent solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar, including in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 3-10% by weight, in each case based on Weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent, at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with one molar SiO 2 /N/a 2 O ratio of 0.9 - 1.1, preferably 1.
  • Further oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar, including in a total amount of 0.1 to 40 wt.
  • Alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates preferred according to the invention are magnesium hydroxide carbonates with the formula MgCO3 ⁇ Mg(OH)2 ⁇ 2 H2O and those with the formula MgCO3 ⁇ Mg(OH)2.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar, including in a total amount of 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 5 - 25% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent, at least one magnesium hydroxide carbonate, which is preferably selected from magnesium hydroxide carbonates with the formula MgCO 3 Mg(OH) 2 ⁇ 2 hours 2 O and magnesium hydroxide carbonates with the formula MgCO 3 Mg(OH) 2 .
  • alkalinizing agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention and are solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar are selected from alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and (earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates and mixtures of these substances.
  • Inorganic alkalizing agents that are particularly preferred according to the invention and are solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar are mixtures of at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of 0.9 - 1.1, preferably 1, and at least one magnesium hydroxide carbonate.
  • inorganic alkalizing agents that are particularly preferred according to the invention and are solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar are mixtures of at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO 2 /N/a 2 O ratio of 0.9 - 1.1, preferably 1, at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O-9HUKlOWQLV ⁇ YRQ ⁇ EHYRU]XJW ⁇ ⁇ -3.5 and at least one magnesium hydroxide carbonate.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 3-10% by weight of sodium silicates with a molar SiO2/Na2O ratio from 0.9 - 1.1, preferably 1 and 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 5 - 25% by weight of magnesium hydroxide carbonate as inorganic, at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar solid alkalizing agents.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention are further characterized in that they do not contain a polymer which comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides and/or methacrylic acid esters as the chain-forming monomer.
  • a polymer which comprises acrylic acid, acrylic acid amides, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid amides and/or methacrylic acid esters as the chain-forming monomer can have an adverse effect on the heat development in the ready-to-use bleaching agent.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agents that are formulated as bleaching powders should be formulated in such a way that they do not produce dust or generate only as little dust as possible during use, especially before or while they are mixed with the liquid hydrogen peroxide solution.
  • Suitable agents for dust reduction are, in particular, oils which are mixed with the dust-producing components of the bleaching powder, the total amount of oils being 0.2-20% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention, which is present as bleaching powder , amounts. If more than 20% by weight of oil is used, a paste is formed with the anhydrous powdery components. Oxidative hair lightening agents according to the invention, which are present as bleaching pastes, contain, based on their weight, at least one oil in a total amount of 20.1 - 80% by weight, preferably 35 - 65% by weight.
  • oils By cleverly selecting the oils, the application properties of the oxidative hair lightening agent as well as the entire ready-to-use lightening agent can be optimized.
  • oils the consumer's desire for products that contain as few synthetically produced ingredients as possible and instead contain naturally derived ingredients must also be taken into account.
  • Oils of mineral origin such as mineral oils and paraffins, have good application properties and are available inexpensively.
  • oils from renewable raw material sources can preferably be used instead of oils of mineral origin. It was surprisingly found that certain oils can have a very beneficial effect on the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, at least one oil in a total amount of 0.2 - 80% by weight, preferably 1 - 70% by weight, particularly preferably 4 - 60% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 5-20% by weight.
  • the at least one oil is preferably selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
  • Branched fatty alcohols with 8-24 carbon atoms preferred according to the invention are 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol and isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • 2-Octyl-1-dodecanol is extremely preferred.
  • Dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups preferred according to the invention are di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule, such as di- n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-octadecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether.
  • dialkyl ethers are those with branched alkyl groups each having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular with alkyl groups that are substituted in the 2-position with an ethyl group.
  • Preferred branched-chain dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group are selected from di-(2-ethylhexyl) ether and di-(2-ethyldecyl) ether.
  • di-n-octyl ether ICI: dicaprylyl ether
  • cetiol ® OE is available from BASF.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain at least one oil selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 80% by weight, preferably 1 - 70% by weight, particularly preferably 4 - 60% by weight, extremely preferably 5 - 20% by weight.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain at least one oil selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups, and Mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 10% by weight, preferably 1 - 7% by weight, particularly preferably 4 - 6% by weight, extremely preferably 4.5 - 5.5% by weight. %, contain.
  • Further oxidative hair lightening agents which are extremely preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain at least one oil, selected from mineral oils and 2-octyl-1-dodecanol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 10 wt. -%, preferably 1-7% by weight, particularly preferably 4-6% by weight, extremely preferably 5-5.5% by weight. Further oxidative hair lightening agents which are extremely preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain at least one oil, selected from mineral oils and di-n-octyl ether as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 10% by weight.
  • silicone oils are also suitable oils according to the invention.
  • Ester oils for example benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22 alkanols, such as benzoic acid C12-C15 alkyl esters, further triglycerides (i.e. triple esters of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-30 Fatty acids, preferably saturated triglyceride oils, especially capric/caprylic triglycerides, as well as natural oils, e.g.
  • amaranth seed oil apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil , linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan nut oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, Wheat germ oil and the liquid parts of the coconut oil, furthermore the dicarboxylic acid ester of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -Alkanols, such as diisopropyl adipate, di-n-but
  • B. C12-C15 alkyl lactate, furthermore the symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C3-22 alkanols, C3-22 alkanediols or C3-22 alkanetriols, e.g. B. dicaprylyl carbonate, can also be used according to the invention as an oil, but are less preferred due to the possible risk of hydrolysis or should only be contained in small amounts of 0.1 to a maximum of 2% by weight, based on the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention .
  • an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, has a very favorable influence on the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation can.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid being preferably selected is composed of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and mixtures thereof, with stearic acid and palmitic acid and mixtures thereof being particularly preferred and wherein the Potassium, magnesium and calcium salts of C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid are extremely preferred.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in a total amount of 0. 05 - 1% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 0.6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 - 0.5% by weight.
  • Hair lightening agents are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, potassium stearate in a total amount of 0.05 - 1% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 0.6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 - 0.5% by weight. It was surprisingly found that sodium hexametaphosphate can very favorably influence the swelling behavior of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation. Further oxidative hair lightening agents that are extremely preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.05 - 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 0.4% by weight, of sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • kaolin can very favorably influence various application properties of the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention after mixing with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation, including the foaming and swelling behavior, but also the behavior when drying during the exposure time.
  • Kaolin provides a creamy texture to the application mixture.
  • kaolin on the hair supports the rapid formation of a dry film on the application mixture.
  • Further oxidative hair lightening agents which are extremely preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.1 - 20% by weight, preferably 1 - 15% by weight, particularly preferably 6 - 10% by weight. Contain kaolin.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention further contains at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, which is particularly preferably selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and / or at least one salt of these acids and mixtures of these compounds, the at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms being extremely preferably selected from succinic acid, malic acid, malonic acid and maleic acid and their salts.
  • Salts of dicarboxylic acids with 2 to 10 carbon atoms preferred according to the invention are selected from the mono- and disalts of the anions of succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid , grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid with alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular with lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • the succinic acid which is particularly preferred according to the invention has a melting point in the range of 185 - 187 ° C at 1013 mbar, and is therefore a solid at 20 ° C.
  • Salts of succinic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the succinates and hydrogensuccinates of alkali metal ions, Alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, or the succinates and hydrogensuccinates of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and / or histidine , e.g. arginine succinate, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • the salts of succinic acid mentioned can also contain bound water of crystallization, in particular sodium succinate hexahydrate, which is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Malic acid which is particularly preferred according to the invention, is optically active. For cost reasons, racemic DL-malic acid is preferred.
  • Salts of malic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the malates and hydrogen malates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts, in particular disodium malate and dipotassium malate, but also calcium malate.
  • salts of malic acid mentioned can contain bound water of crystallization, in particular the disodium malate hemihydrate and the disodium malate trihydrate.
  • Salts of oxalic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the oxalates and hydrogen oxalates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, and mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of the particularly preferred malonic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the malates and hydrogenmalates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, and mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of adipic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the adipates and hydrogen adipates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, and mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of pimelic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the pimelates and hydrogen pimelates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, and mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of suberic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the suberates and hydrogen suberates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, and mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of azelaic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the azelates and hydrogen azelates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, and mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of sebacic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the sebacates and hydrogen sebacates of alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and the ions of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of the particularly preferred maleic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the maleates and hydrogen maleates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of the preferred fumaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the fumarates and hydrogen fumarates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of the preferred D-tartaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of the preferred L-tartaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of the preferred meso-tartaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • the grape acid which is particularly preferred according to the invention is the racemic mixture of D-tartaric acid and L-tartaric acid.
  • Salts of grape acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the tartrates and hydrogen tartrates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of alpha-ketoglutaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the alpha-ketoglutarates and alpha-ketohydrogenglutarates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of beta-ketoglutaric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the beta-ketoglutarates and beta-ketohydrogenglutarates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Salts of oxaloacetic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from the oxaloacetates and oxalohydroacetates of alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as mixtures of these salts.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, which is preferably selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and/or at least one salt of these acids, in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.0 weight, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid.
  • dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms which is preferably selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic
  • oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain succinic acid and/or at least one salt of succinic acid in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, preferably 0.33 to 3.0% by weight, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid. , particularly preferably 0.4 to 2.0% by weight, extremely preferably 0.5 - 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain malic acid and/or at least one salt of malic acid in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, preferably 0.33 to 3.0, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid % by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 2.0% by weight, extremely preferably 0.5-1.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents preferred according to the invention contain malonic acid and/or at least one salt of malonic acid in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, preferably 0.33 to 3.0, converted to the mass of free dicarboxylic acid % by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 2.0% by weight, extremely preferably 0.5-1.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention further contain at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners, which are preferably selected from polysaccharides which can be chemically and/or physically modified.
  • hydrophilic thickeners are particularly preferred as hydrophilic thickeners, since the basic structures of the polysaccharides are of natural origin and biodegradable.
  • Preferred hydrophilic polysaccharide thickeners are selected from celluloses, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, guar gum, alginic acids (as well as their corresponding physiologically tolerated salts, the alginates), agar agar (with that present in agar agar as the main ingredient polysaccharide agarose), starch fractions and starch derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, pectins, dextrans and mixtures thereof.
  • Cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols and cellulose esters preferred according to the invention are selected from methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as sodium carboxymethylcellulose, whose INCI name is cellulose gum) and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose preferably sodium carboxymethylcellulose with the INCI name Cellulose Gum
  • hydrophilic thickener is included as a hydrophilic thickener.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose can be included as the only hydrophilic thickener.
  • Particularly preferred are combinations of sodium carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan gum (preferably xanthan gum with the INCI name xanthan gum).
  • Combinations of xanthan gum are extremely preferred Gum, sodium carboxymethylcellulose and guar gum with the INCI name Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention contain at least one hydrophilic thickener, which is preferably selected from polysaccharides which can be chemically and/or physically modified, in a total amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 2.5 to 3.4% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 0 .5% by weight, hydroxyethyl cellulose.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agents according to the invention or preferred according to the invention can contain at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. To matt undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, especially in the reddish or bluish range, it is particularly preferred to contain certain direct dyes of complementary colors.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic or nonionic.
  • the direct dyes are each preferably contained in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • Preferred anionic direct dyes are those under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
  • Preferred cationic direct dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems that are substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) and direct dyes containing a heterocycle that has at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • the cationic substantive dyes sold under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
  • Nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes are particularly suitable as nonionic direct dyes.
  • Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN , HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2- Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4, 6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene,
  • a further subject of the present invention is a method for lightening or dyeing hair in a lightening manner, in which an oxidative hair lightening agent (B) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidation composition (Ox) which, based on its weight, is 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70-93% by weight, particularly preferably 80-90% by weight, water and 0.5-20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and furthermore at least one pH adjusting agent in such an amount contains that the oxidation composition has a pH value in the range of 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C, immediately afterwards applied to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes and then the fibers with water rinsed and optionally washed out with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent, the oxidative hair lightening agent (B) and the oxidation composition (Ox) preferably in
  • the oxidation composition (Ox) used in the whitening process according to the invention essentially contains water and hydrogen peroxide.
  • the concentration of hydrogen peroxide is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect. It is 0.5 - 20% by weight, preferably 3 - 12% by weight, particularly preferably 6 - 9% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) .
  • the oxidation composition (Ox) preferably has an acidic pH value, in particular a pH value in the range from 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C.
  • the oxidative hair lightening agent (B) is preferably composed in such a way that the mixture with the aforementioned oxidation composition (Ox), i.e. the ready-to-use lightening agent, in particular bleaching agent, has an alkaline pH, preferably a pH of 8.0 to 11 .5, preferably in the range from 8.5 to 11.0, particularly preferably 9.0 - 10.5, extremely preferably 9.5 - 10.0, each measured at 20 ° C.
  • Oxidation compositions (Ox) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention further contain at least one oil and/or at least one fat component with a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 ° C, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 60% by weight, particularly preferably 0. 5 - 40% by weight, extremely preferably 2 - 24% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) preferably used according to the invention.
  • the oils suitable for the oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention are largely the same oils that are disclosed above as suitable dedusting agents for bleaching powders and as carrier oils for bleaching pastes.
  • Fat components preferably used according to the invention in the oxidation compositions (Ox) with a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 ° C are selected from linear saturated 1-alkanols with 12 - 30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 8% by weight, particularly preferably 3.0 to 6.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention.
  • the at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol with 12-30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol and from mixtures of these 1-alkanols, particularly preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol/stearyl alcohol. Mixtures.
  • Oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention also contain, based on their weight, at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol with 12-30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1-8% by weight, preferably in a total amount of 2-6 % by weight, containing at least one 1-alkanol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol/stearyl alcohol mixtures.
  • Further oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one fat component with a melting point in the range of 23 - 110 ° C, which is selected from esters of a saturated, monovalent C 16 -C 60 -Alkanol and a saturated C 8th -C 36 -Monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C20-C40 alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12 - C30 carboxylic acids, which can be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C14 - C36 carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
  • esters of a saturated, monovalent C 16 -C 60 -Alkanol and a saturated C 8th -C 36 -Monocarboxylic acid in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C20-C40
  • oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or at least one emulsifier, preferably in a total amount of 0.5 - 10% by weight, preferably 1 - 5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention oxidation composition used (Ox).
  • Surfactants and emulsifiers in the sense of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic part of the molecule.
  • the hydrophobic residue is preferably a hydrocarbon chain with 8-28 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. This C8-C28 alkyl chain is particularly preferably linear.
  • anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are particularly suitable.
  • zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are also very suitable according to the invention.
  • All anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters, linear alkane sulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates , alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates as well as alkyl and/or alkenyl phosphates.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids, each with 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds that have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Amphoteric surfactants are those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with 8 to 24 C- Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine.
  • Non-ionic surfactants contain e.g. as a hydrophilic group.
  • B a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.
  • Such compounds are, for example, addition products of 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols, with fatty acids and with alkylphenols, each with 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and Triglycerides such as glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide, and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates (Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 60, Tween 61, Tween 81), addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid
  • nonionic surfactants are C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues as well as ethylene oxide addition products to saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol.
  • Further oxidation compositions preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • compositions preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that at least one nonionic surfactant, selected from ethylene oxide addition products to saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol, and at least one anionic surfactant, selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids each having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, in the molecule, the weight ratio of the total of all anionic surfactants to the total being particularly preferred of all nonionic surfactants is in the range of 5 - 50, preferably 10 - 30.
  • nonionic surfactant selected from ethylene oxide addition products to saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohols, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol
  • anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates
  • Oxidation compositions (Ox) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical, esterquats and amidoamines each with at least one C8-C24 acyl radical and mixtures thereof.
  • at least one cationic surfactant which is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical, esterquats and amidoamines each with at least one C8-C24 acyl radical and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates, such as C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24 dialkyldimethyl ammonium chlorides and C8-C24 trialkylmethyl ammonium chlorides, e.g. B.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91.
  • the alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are cationic surfactants that contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element and also at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • N,N-Bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulfates and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates are preferred examples of such esterquats.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines.
  • a particularly suitable compound from this group of substances according to the invention is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • Oxidation compositions (Ox) used particularly preferably according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 - 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 - 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention.
  • a further subject of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for lightening keratin fibers, which contains at least two separately packaged components and which is characterized in that i) the first component (B) is one according to the invention or one according to the invention
  • the preferred oxidative hair lightening agent is, ii) the second component (Ox) is an oxidation composition which, based on its weight, is 50-96% by weight, preferably 70-93% by weight, particularly preferably 80-90% by weight.
  • the ready-to-use mixtures of an oxidative hair lightening agent according to the invention or preferred according to the invention with one of the aforementioned oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably have a viscosity in the range from 15,000 to 100,000 mPas, particularly preferably 20,000 to 85,000 mPas, each measured at 20 ° C with a Brookfield viscometer Type DV-II+, spindle 5 with a speed of 4 revolutions/minute.
  • a viscosity in this range allows the ready-to-use agent to be easily applied on the one hand and, on the other hand, to have such a flow behavior that it guarantees a sufficiently long exposure time for the agent at the site of action on the keratin fibers.
  • a multi-component packaging unit includes several individual components that are assembled separately from one another, as well as common packaging for these components, for example a folding box.
  • the components are provided separately in different containers.
  • a container is understood to mean a casing which is in the form of an optionally resealable bottle, a tube, a can, a bag, a sachet or a similar casing.
  • the wrapping material set there are no limits to the wrapping material set.
  • these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.
  • the packaging unit can include application aids such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, in particular disposable gloves, and instructions for use.
  • the exposure time is preferably 5 to 60 minutes, in particular 5 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably 10 to 45 minutes.
  • An exposure phase at room temperature is also according to the invention.
  • the temperature during the exposure time is between 20 °C and 40 °C, in particular between 25 °C and 38 °C.
  • the agents produce good treatment results even at physiologically tolerable temperatures of below 45°C.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the multi-component packaging units (kits of parts) according to the invention and preferred according to the invention.
  • oxidative hair lightening agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis to the methods according to the invention and preferred according to the invention for lightening the keratin fibers.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent for lightening or lightening the hair containing a) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, b) furthermore at least one Complexing agents, selected from complexing agents of the general formula (I), where R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or a physiologically compatible salt thereof, where R2 and R3 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to point 1 characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) in a total amount of 5 - 85% by weight, preferably 10 - 70% by weight, particularly preferably 17 - 55% by weight, extremely preferably 22 - 45% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to point 1 or 2 characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) is selected from sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxomonosulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate and mixtures of these compounds, preferably potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, Potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, particularly preferably from potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, extremely preferably from potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures with an excess of potassium
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 3, characterized in that the at least one complexing agent b) of the general formula (I) is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, the sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts of methylglycinediacetic acid and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, the disodium salt and the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid being preferred and the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid being particularly preferred.
  • the at least one complexing agent b) of the general formula (I) is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, the sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts of methylglycinediacetic acid and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, the disodium salt and the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid being preferred and the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid being particularly preferred.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 5, characterized in that the trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid is in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0 .4 to 1.6% by weight, extremely preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 8, characterized in that at least one inorganic alkalizing agent solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar is contained, including in a total amount of 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 1 to 30 % by weight, particularly preferably 5-25% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent, at least one magnesium hydroxide carbonate, which is preferably selected from magnesium hydroxide carbonates with the formula MgCO 3 Mg(OH) 2 ⁇ 2 hours 2 O and magnesium hydroxide carbonates with the formula MgCO3 Mg(OH)2.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 11, characterized in that the at least one alpha-amino acid is selected from serine, arginine, the salts of these amino acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, with mixtures of serine and arginine being particularly preferred.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 14, characterized in that at least one alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of a C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, is contained, the C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid is preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and mixtures thereof, with stearic acid and palmitic acid and mixtures thereof being particularly preferred and the potassium , magnesium and calcium salts of C12-C24 monocarboxylic acid are extremely preferred.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 16 characterized in that 0.05 - 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 0.4% by weight, of sodium hexametaphosphate, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair lightening agent is.
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 17, characterized in that at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, selected from succinic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, malic acid, D-tartaric acid, L-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, grape acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid, the salts of the aforementioned acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, are included, with preference being given to at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 Carbon atoms and/or their salt(s) in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, preferably 0.33 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 .0% by weight, extremely preferably 0.7-1.0% by weight, in
  • Oxidative hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 20, characterized in that, based on its weight, at least one oil selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols with 8 - 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.2 - 80% by weight, preferably 1 - 70% by weight, particularly preferably 4 - 60% by weight, extremely preferably 5 - 20% by weight is.
  • an oxidative hair lightening agent (B) according to one of points 1 - 23 is mixed with an oxidation composition (Ox) which, based on its weight, is 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70-93% by weight, particularly preferably 80-90% by weight, water and 0.5-20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and further contains at least one pH adjusting agent in such an amount - maintains that the oxidation composition has a pH value in the range of 1.5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C, applied immediately afterwards to the keratin-containing fibers, left on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes and then the fibers with Rinsed with water and optionally washed out with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent, the oxidative hair lightening agent (B) and the oxidation composition (Ox) preferably in a
  • Multi-component packaging unit for lightening hair, which contains at least two separately packaged components and which is characterized in that i) the first component (B) is a hair lightening agent according to one of points 1 - 23, ii ) the second component (Ox) is an oxidation composition which, based on its weight, contains 50-96% by weight, preferably 70-93% by weight, particularly preferably 80-90% by weight, water and 0.
  • Table 3 Temperature profile [temperature in °C]
  • the ready-to-use bleaching agent mixture V2 which contains ammonium chloride, heats up significantly more slowly and to a significantly lower temperature than the ready-to-use bleaching agent mixture V1 without ammonium chloride.
  • the exchange of the complexing agent Na2-EDTA, which is not used according to the invention, for the complexing agent Na, which is used according to the invention 3 -MGDA (Na 3 -MGDS) leads to a further reduction in the mixing temperature.
  • the experimental setup shown above with temperature determination in the mixing bowl systematically underestimates the temperature development on the hair. Hair is often contaminated with heavy metal ions, especially copper ions from tap water, which catalyze the development of heat. Therefore, even small heat tones, i.e.
  • Table 6 Time course of the volume of the ready-to-use bleaching agent mixture [ml]
  • ammonium chloride (E2, E3) or potassium chloride (E4) the undesirable foaming of the ready-to-use bleaching agent mixture during the reaction time on the hair could be significantly reduced.
  • No corresponding effect was achieved with a salt such as calcium chloride hexahydrate (V5).

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits d'éclaircissement capillaire oxydants, en particulier des poudres de blanchiment et des pâtes de blanchiment, comprenant une teneur en agents complexants biodégradables qui ne gonflent pas ou ne s'échauffent pas trop lorsqu'ils sont mélangés avec une préparation aqueuse de peroxyde d'hydrogène, éclaircissant ainsi les cheveux ou éclaircissant les cheveux de manière douce.
EP23715796.1A 2022-04-27 2023-03-27 Produit d'éclaircissement capillaire oxydant à comportement de gonflement contrôlé Pending EP4514311A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102022204091.0A DE102022204091A1 (de) 2022-04-27 2022-04-27 Oxidatives Haaraufhellungsmittel mit kontrolliertem Aufquellverhalten
PCT/EP2023/057795 WO2023208488A1 (fr) 2022-04-27 2023-03-27 Produit d'éclaircissement capillaire oxydant à comportement de gonflement contrôlé

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2386068A (en) 2001-03-20 2003-09-10 Procter & Gamble Oxidative treatment of hair with reduced hair damage
CA2437053A1 (fr) 2001-03-20 2002-09-26 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions oxydantes comprenant un agent chelatant et un agent revitalisant et procedes de traitement des cheveux
CA2437170C (fr) 2001-03-20 2009-10-27 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions convenant pour le traitement des cheveux comprenant des chelatants, et procede pour reduire la deterioration des cheveux par oxydation
FR2852834B1 (fr) 2003-03-25 2008-02-15 Oreal Composition oxydante comprenant des acides hydroxycarboxyliques et leurs sels comme agents complexants pour la coloration, la decoloration ou la deformation permanente des fibres keratiniques
FR2852835A1 (fr) * 2003-03-25 2004-10-01 Oreal Utilisation d'acides polycarboxyliques et de leurs sels comme agents complexants dans les compositions oxydantes pour la coloration, la decoloration ou la deformation permanente de fibres keratiniques
DE102005013438A1 (de) 2005-03-21 2006-09-28 Henkel Kgaa Haarbehandlungs-Kit mit Komplexbildnern
DE102015208788A1 (de) * 2015-05-12 2016-11-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zur schonenden oxidativen Aufhellung von keratinhaltigen Fasern
DE102018123507A1 (de) * 2018-09-25 2020-03-26 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Reduzierte Haarschädigung während der Blondierung durch Einsatz von einem biologisch abbaubaren Komplexbildner
DE102020211751A1 (de) * 2020-09-21 2022-03-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zur oxidativen Farbveränderung von keratinischen Fasern mit Komplexbildner und Aminosäure und/oder Proteinhydrolysat

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