Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/85—Polyesters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

• Anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising decaglycerol myristate and a combination of fatty substances
• the invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular dedicated to cleaning or removing make-up from keratin materials, such as for example the skin, lips, eye contour or eyelashes, more particularly to that of anhydrous solid cosmetic compositions.
• the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising decaglycerol myristate and a specific combination of fatty substances, dedicated to cleaning or removing make-up from keratin materials, such as for example the skin, lips or eyelashes.
• the present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for cleaning and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular for the face.
• Solid cosmetic compositions are increasingly popular with consumers keen to reduce their impact on the environment. Indeed, these products have the advantage of consuming little natural water resources and also make it possible to reduce the carbon impact and the costs linked to the quantities of water transported in comparison with liquid products containing it (transport of water for the manufacture and then transport of products made from water, inducing a significant volume and weight to be transported in relation to the weight of active material). Furthermore, given their low water content, anhydrous compositions make it possible to limit or even eliminate the use of preservatives which are generally synthetic and often criticized as allergenic or irritating. Consumers are also looking for cosmetic compositions with ingredients that are more environmentally friendly and have a high level of natural ingredients and/or of natural origin.
• Typical makeup removal products are insufficient to remove stubborn makeup and may require repeated pulling and rubbing on the skin and/or delicate areas around the eyes and therefore cause irritation.
• Other cleaning products may contain high-performance surfactants but which can cause tightness due to their excessive detergency and/or have a harmful impact on the environment. This is for example the case of sulfated surfactants, various amphoteric surfactants such as coco betaine, cocoami dopropyl betaine or sodium cocoamphodi acetate or even oxyalkylenated surfactants such as for example surfactants comprising a polyoxyethylene (PEG) or polyoxypropylene unit ( PPG).
• PEG polyoxyethylene
• PPG polyoxypropylene unit
• Solid anhydrous makeup remover balms exist and allow you to gently remove makeup and cleanse the skin by softening under the effect of pressure when applied to the skin and/or melting on contact with the heat of the skin. Their effectiveness in removing makeup is however variable and, when it is satisfactory, their composition does not meet environmental concerns.
• anhydrous solid makeup remover compositions described in document WO2019/126999 comprising a hydrophobic polymer, a hydrocarbon oil and two surfactants, one of which is a polyglycerol ester. But these compositions circumvent the difficulties by using a synthetic thickener (hydrophobic polyamide polymer) and a polyoxyalkylenated surfactant to obtain sufficient stability and effectiveness in terms of makeup removal and rinsability.
• compositions have more flexible solid textures and soften or slide more easily during application but may appear more sticky or have insufficient stability over time, particularly with changes in appearance over time and/or an consistency which varies over time. Indeed, during stability tests in accelerated conditions with the different temperature rise and fall cycles, the flexible solid compositions can destructure then restructure differently or recrystallize in a different form, and present for example a heterogeneous or lumpy appearance ( agglomerates), a granular structure (crystallization in the form of grains), a release of oil on the surface and/or an increase or decrease in the consistency of the composition over time.
• cosmetic compositions having a high level of natural ingredients and/or of natural origin, and in particular free of synthetic polymers or polyoxyalkylenated surfactants.
• cosmetic compositions comprising, for example, at least 90% ingredients of natural origin, which is a criterion sought by more and more consumers.
• solid, flexible cosmetic cleansing compositions that are easy to use, non-sticky or glutinous, which are easily removed (for example with the fingers or using a spatula) and also spread easily on the surface. skin, with a softer and more melting texture, without feeling of braking or tightness upon application.
• cosmetic compositions having a good stability and homogeneity over time (without release or crystallization phenomena), in particular which are stable and kept throughout the storage period of the product up to several months after its opening by the end user.
• the present invention relates to an anhydrous solid cosmetic composition
• an anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least 8% by mass of polyglyceryl-10-myristate relative to the total mass of the composition: b) at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, preferably non-polar (Lnp); c) at least one first solid fatty substance (SI), with a melting point below 30°C; d) at least one second solid fatty substance (S2), with a melting point ranging from 30°C to 40°C; and e) at least one third solid fatty substance (S3), with a melting point of at least 60°C.
• the association according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a consistency or hardness sufficient to condition the composition in a pot, for example in the form of a balm texture, but at the same time it is sufficiently flexible to be easily graspable (for example with your fingers or using a spatula), without being sticky or “gooey” (taking just enough quantity without forming “threads” or “bundles”).
• the composition according to the invention has a completely unusual texture that is both relatively firm and flexible.
• the association according to the invention makes it possible to satisfy the criteria of sensoriality by obtaining a solid composition that is both sufficiently soft and melting upon application. Indeed, under the effect of pressure on the skin and the heat of the skin, the composition transforms into an oil allowing good distribution and easy spreading on the skin with good slipperiness. Thus, its flexibility and its melting power allow the composition to be worked on the face, for example in massages, without feeling of braking or tightness. skin.
• the particular combination of ingredients makes it possible to satisfy the performance criteria with effective cleaning, even for stubborn makeup (such as waterproof makeup), and with good rinsability (the composition is rinsed and removed easily with water).
• the composition when rinsing with water, the composition (oily on the skin) transforms into a milky emulsion (bleached in contact with water) then takes with it makeup residues and impurities, leaving clean skin without residue or greasy film on the skin.
• composition according to the invention cleans effectively while preserving the epidermis, without drying it or irritating it. After rinsing, it leaves the skin soft, supple, nourished, with a clean skin finish without the feeling of a greasy or oily film.
• the composition according to the invention makes it possible to satisfy the criteria of use and stability: the combination makes it possible to obtain a solid that is both cohesive and soft, having good stability over time (particularly after storage). in accelerated conditions at 50°C and in temperature cycles). Indeed, the composition remains homogeneous, without the phenomenon of oil release or oozing, including when the composition is crushed (for example under the repeated effects of pressure when removing the composition from a pot).
• the flexible solid composition according to the invention also has a constant consistency over time.
• compositions having a very high rate of naturalness which are both efficient, sensory and stable, without requiring the use of thickeners and/or synthetic surfactants or of petrochemical origin such as, for example, synthetic polymers or polyoxyalkylenated surfactants.
• composition according to the invention respects the skin, including the delicate areas around the eyes, and satisfies the requirements of safety for the eyes as well as the conservation requirements by limiting or even avoiding the use of conservatives.
• composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin. It can be used for cleaning and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, such as the skin, lips or eyelashes. It can be used for example for the face, for the eyes, for the hands, for the body or even for the hair.
• the composition according to the invention is intended for cleaning and/or removing make-up from the face and/or eyes, including eyelashes.
• the composition according to the invention is intended to be rinsed with water.
• the present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition such as defined above to clean and/or remove make-up from keratin materials, preferably the face, including the lips, eyes and eyelashes.
• the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
• the expression “comprising” includes the expression “consisting of”.
• the name “INCI” designates the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the international nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).
• cosmetic composition within the meaning of the present invention is meant a composition suitable for external topical application. It includes a cosmetically acceptable support, that is to say a support compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids), lips and eyelashes.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cleansing and/or make-up remover product, preferably a rinse-off product.
• the cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more additives comprising active ingredients, emollients and perfumes. It can have moisturizing, soothing, and/or protective properties for the skin. It can also promote the repair and strengthening of eyelashes.
• keratin materials means the skin, lips, hair, eyelashes and nails of human beings.
• solid characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). This means that the composition has a high enough consistency to maintain its shape during storage. In other words, the composition does not flow under its own weight.
• the solid state can be specified by the “hardness” of the composition which defines the resistance that it opposes to deformation, in particular to the penetration of a harder body.
• anhydrous composition is meant for the purposes of the present invention a composition having a water content less than 2% by mass, preferably less than 1% by mass, even more particularly less than 0.5% by mass. mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. More particularly, water is not added during the preparation of the composition and the water content corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.
• the composition according to the invention contains at least 90% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 94% of ingredients of natural origin. More preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least 97% ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 99% ingredients of natural origin. The percentage of ingredient of natural origin is calculated here according to the principles of standard NF ISO 16128. Surprisingly, the particular combination of ingredients highlighted by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions having a very high level of naturalness. high, while combining the sensory, performance and stability properties of compositions containing ingredients of synthetic or petrochemical origin.
• natural ingredient means an ingredient (or a substance) present in nature (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals), unprocessed or obtained from from physical processes only.
• the ingredient can be extracted and/or treated by mechanical or gravitational means, by dissolution in water, by maceration, by extraction with water, by distillation, by grinding, by pressure, by flotation, by sedimentation , by filtration, etc.
• the naturalness index of a natural ingredient determined according to standard NF ISO no. 16128 (or “natural origin index”), is 1 (ingredient 100% of natural origin).
• a natural ingredient we can for example cite water, plant extracts whose solvents used are natural (water or other natural solvents), parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral ingredients, etc.
• naturally derived ingredient within the meaning of the present invention is meant a natural ingredient extracted and/or chemically treated, having undergone small-scale chemical transformations and in limited number. These transformations and chemical processes can be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to petrochemical processes involving petroleum derivatives) and are for example listed in the NF ISO standard no. 16128.
• the naturalness index of a “naturally derived” ingredient, calculated according to standard NF ISO no. 16128, is greater than 0.5 (i.e. it contains a proportion of more than 50% of the molecular mass derived from nature ).
• natural origin ingredient here includes “natural” ingredients and “naturally derived” ingredients as defined above.
• the naturalness index of an ingredient of natural origin calculated according to standard NF ISO no. 16128, is greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1.
• synthetic ingredients or those derived mainly from fossil fuels have a naturalness index of 0.
• polyoxyalkylenated emulsifier or surfactant encompasses emulsifiers having at least one polyoxyalkylenated chain (oxyalkylene repeating units), for example chains comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene repeating units.
• This term includes in particular emulsifiers with polyoxyalkylenated side and/or terminal groups, for example polyoxyethylenated (or POE) and/or polyoxypropylenated (or POP).
• synthetic thickener also called here synthetic gelling agent
• synthetic thickener for the purposes of the present invention is meant a polymer of synthetic origin which, by its presence, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced.
• exempt within the meaning of the present invention means a mass quantity of substance less than or equal to 0.2% relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% and more preferably less than or equal to 0.05%.
• the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds.
• composition according to the invention is free of preservatives.
• composition according to the invention is in the form of a flexible solid.
• soft solid we mean a texture that does not flow under its own weight, but can be deformed by pressure, for example with a finger. Its consistency is malleable and prehensile. For example, it can be similar to that of butter (without the fatty character).
• the composition when the composition is packaged in a pot, at room temperature (25°C), and the pot is turned upside down, the composition does not flow under its own weight for at least 12 hours, preferably for at least 24 hours. h.
• the composition can be easily shaped by hand and can also be easily broken by hand in order to take only the necessary quantity of product.
• the composition according to the invention has a penetration depth of 20°C ranging from 8 to 25 mm, preferably from 8 to 22 mm, better from 10 to 22 mm.
• the penetration depth makes it possible to measure the consistency and/or plasticity of samples (especially pasty, creamy, semi-solid or highly viscous samples). It is determined here by penetrometry using a PNR 12 penetrometer equipped with a 102.5 g SETA ASTM-IP type calibrated cone (Petrotest reference 18-0101) with a penetration time of 10 seconds.
• a penetration pot (screw jar with a diameter of 90 mm and a height of 110 mm) is filled with the sample to be tested (the surface of which is leveled) and the pot is placed for at least 12 hours in a thermostatically controlled oven at 20°C.
• the pot is centered in relation to a grid of the base support of the penetrometer fitted with the penetration cone.
• the tip of the penetration cone is fitted to the sample surface. When the measurement is started, the cone enters in free fall into the sample, under the action of its own weight, for a period of 10 seconds.
• the penetration depth is recorded and expressed in mm. The deeper the penetration mobile goes, the less consistent
• the composition according to the present invention can have a dropping point ranging from 55°C to 75°C, preferably from 57°C to 70°C. This presents an advantage for industrial implementation, but also for the stability and application of the composition according to the invention.
• the dropping point represents the temperature at which a drop of molten product, in liquid state, falls from a calibrated cup (the bottom of which is pierced), heated gradually.
• the dropping point is determined according to the ASTM-D 3954 standard using a Metier Toledo DP70 device (Dropping Point System). More precisely, the composition is heated until all the ingredients have melted, then poured into a calibrated cup. The cup is placed at room temperature (25°C) for at least 20 minutes before measuring the dropping point. The cup is then placed in the DP70 measuring device with a heating rate of 1°C per minute.
• composition according to the invention may be monophasic or may be in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases.
• composition designates a composition which contains only one homogeneous phase. Such a composition is different from dispersions of two phases immiscible with each other at room temperature (also called emulsions) which include a dispersed phase (or discontinuous phase) in the form of droplets in a dispersing phase (called continuous phase).
• a monophasic composition is also different from biphasic, or biphase, compositions, consisting of two separate distinct phases (in particular a hydrophilic phase and an oily phase), and which require, for example, prior stirring in order to form an emulsion before application.
• composition according to the invention can also be in the form of a dispersion of two phases which are immiscible with each other at room temperature (25°C), in particular a dispersion of hydrophilic phase (composed of hydrophilic constituents) in a li-phase. pophilic (or fatty phase).
• hydrophilic constituents capable of forming a hydrophilic phase mention may be made, for example, of short-chain monoalcohols, for example C to C4 (such as ethanol, isopropanol), polyols, linear or branched, for example comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms (such as butylene glycol, glycerol or glycerin, sorbitol, etc.), and a mixture of these.
• the mass content of hydrophilic phase is at most 10%, preferably at most 7%, better still at most 5%, relative to the total mass. of the composition.
• composition is monophasic or in dispersion form
• macroscopic analysis with the naked eye of the composition according to the invention shows a homogeneous appearance.
• the composition according to the invention is monophasic.
• composition according to the invention contains at least 8% by weight of polyglyceryl-10-myristate.
• Polyglyceryl-10-myristate is known as a skin conditioning agent and is also used as a nonionic surfactant, typically to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions (or O/W emulsions). It is an ester of myristic acid and decaglycerol (or polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol units). It can be obtained after reaction of one (or more) fatty acid(s) (myristic acid, preferably of plant origin) and a decaglycerol (homopolymer of glycerol comprising 10 glycerol units), which can itself be obtained by condensation of a vegetable glycerin.
• esters or mixtures of esters with a low degree of esterification are preferably used, for example monoesters, diesters or triesters of decaglycerol and myristic acid.
• polyglyceryl-10-myristate is a monoester of decaglycerol and myristic acid (decaglycerol mono-myristate, CAS no. 87390-32-7).
• polyglyceryl-10-myristate is of natural origin.
• polyglyceryl-10-myri state we can cite the products marketed under the names S FACE M-1001 (from the company ROSSOW COSMETIQUES) or SUNSOFT Q-14S-C (MB) (manufactured by the company TAIYO KAGAKU Co., Ltd.).
• the mass content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate in the composition according to the present invention is at least 8% relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate is at least 10%, preferably at least 12%, more preferably at least 15% relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and better rinsability of the composition according to the invention.
• the mass content of polyglyceryl-10-myri state in the composition according to the present invention is less than 25%, preferably less than 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant.
• additional surfactant is meant a surfactant other than polyglyceryl-10-myristate defined previously. These may, for example, be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. Preferably, the at least one additional surfactant is non-ionic.
• polyglyceryl-10-myristate is the majority surfactant.
• the mass content of polyglyceryl-10-myristate is greater than the total mass content of additional surfactant(s) in the composition. That is to say that the mass content of polyglyceryl-10-myri state represents more than 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of surfactants in the composition.
• the sum of the mass contents of the other surfactants present is less than 10%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• composition according to the invention is free of polyoxyalkylenated surfactant.
• the composition according to the invention may be free of other nonionic surfactant.
• polyglyceryl-10-myri state is the only non-ionic surfactant in the composition according to the invention.
• the composition according to the invention may be free of other surfactant.
• polyglyceryl-10-myristate is the only surfactant in the composition according to the invention, that is to say that the composition does not comprise any other non-ionic surfactant, nor any ionic surfactant (such as as anionic, cationic or amphoteric).
• Fat body The composition according to the invention comprises different fatty substances (liquid and solid).
• fatty substance means an organic compound immiscible in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure ( 1.013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg). More particularly, the solubility in water of this type of compound is less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass.
• This type of compound generally presents in its structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups.
• fatty substances can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorinated.
• hydrocarbon within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a compound containing at least one hydrocarbon group (that is to say a group containing hydrogen and carbon atoms), and optionally oxygen atoms. , nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus.
• the hydrocarbon compound may for example contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. More particularly, in the context of the present invention, a hydrocarbon compound does not contain any silicon or fluorine atom.
• sicone within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. We can cite, for example, organopolysiloxanes.
• Fluorinated means a compound containing at least one fluorine atom.
• the fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon-based, in particular of natural origin.
• the composition according to the invention is free of silicone fatty substances and fluorinated fatty substances.
• Fatty substances can be liquid or solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure ( 1.013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg).
• Solid fatty substances (or non-liquid fatty substances) are generally used in cosmetic compositions as structuring agents, for example to provide consistency to the composition or increase the viscosity of fatty phases.
• the composition comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, more particularly from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and at least three distinct solid fatty substances as defined below.
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils (Lnp).
• oil we mean a liquid fatty substance at room temperature (25°C), and at pressure atmospheric (1.013 . 10 5 Pa; 760 mm Hg).
• hydrocarbon oil means an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atom. It may, for example, contain ester, ether, carbonate, etc. groups.
• non-polar oil is meant within the meaning of the present invention a non-polar or weakly polar oil. This concerns in particular an oil whose component ô a of the solubility parameter, at 25°C, is less than 7 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
• solubility parameter ô 5D 2 + ôp 2 + ⁇ H 2
• the parameters ⁇ D, ôp, ôn and ô a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
• Alkanes in particular have a parameter ô a equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
• Document WO2016/096628 also gives examples of values of ô a for different oils.
• the non-polar hydrocarbon oil has an interfacial tension, at 23°C, greater than 30 mM/m.
• Interfacial tension (sometimes also called polarity index or liquid-liquid interfacial tension or IFT) is measured when two immiscible phases are in contact (here oil and water) and is linked to the cohesive forces between the molecules at the within a phase and the intermolecular forces present at the interface between these two phases. It can be influenced by the polarity of the molecules.
• the interfacial tension can be measured using the “dangling drop” method using a Dataphysics OCAH 200 measuring device (DataPhysics Instruments GmbH, Germany) as described in WO2021/180922. Oil interfacial tension values are also given in BASF’s “Emollient Jockey” digital tool.
• these examples exclude the corresponding hydroxylated oils, that is to say which would contain one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH).
• Vegetable oils containing triglycerides and fatty acids
• glycerides, fatty alcohols and silicone oils are also excluded from the definition of non-polar oil.
• Hydrocarbons comprising 6 to 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched and can be of mineral, plant or synthetic origin.
• the C6 to C16 hydrocarbons are of plant origin.
• These are preferably alkanes.
• VEGELIGHT SILK (INCI name: C9-C12 alkane) by the company Biosyntis (France)
• CETIOL ULTIMATE ICI name: undecane ( and) tridecane (and) tocopherol
• Hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. They can be of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, preferably of plant origin. For example, we can cite squalane (preferably of plant origin). Paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene are other examples of hydrocarbon oils.
• the dialkylated monoether oils which can be used have alkyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. More particularly, the ether compounds which can be used may have the formula RO-R', in which R and R' are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated alkyl groups, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. These may for example be fatty acid ethers.
• the alkyl groups may more particularly comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
• the dialkyl carbonates which can be used have alkyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms.
• the carbonate compounds that can be used can have the formula ROC(O)-O-R' in which R and R' are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated alkyl groups, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms.
• the alkyl groups may more particularly comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, or a mixture of these.
• the so-called “fatty” mono-esters that can be used have only one ester group and include at least 16 carbon atoms. They have at least two alkyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 10 carbon atoms. More particularly, the usable ester compounds may have the formula R-C(O)-O-R', in which R and R' are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-hydroxylated alkyl groups, independently comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. , preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 10 carbon atoms.
• esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols may, for example, be esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols. More particularly, the alkyl groups R and R' can independently comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
• usable monoesters include decyl oleate (INCI name: decyl oleate), hexyldecyl stearate (INCI name: hexyldecyl stearate), ethylhexyl stearate (INCI name: ethylhexyl stearate) , ethylhexyl palmitate (INCI name: ethylhexyl palmitate), propylheptyl caprylate (INCI name: propylheptyl caprylate), hexyl laurate (hexyl laurate), isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate,
• the non-polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from alkanes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, achenes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated mono-ethers whose alkyl chains comprise at least 6 carbon atoms, dialkyl carbonates whose alkyl chains comprise at least 8 carbon atoms, monoesters whose alkyl chains comprise at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
• the non-polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from alkanes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, achenes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated mono-ethers whose alkyl chains comprise at least 8 carbon atoms. , dialkyl carbonates whose alkyl chains comprise at least 8 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.
• the non-polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from alkanes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, achenes comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, dialkylated mono-ethers whose alkyl chains comprise at least 8 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.
• the non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Lnp) is of plant origin.
• the mass content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Lnp) in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 10%, preferably at least 15%, preferably at least 20%, more preferably at least 15%. less 25%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Lnp) in the composition according to the present invention can be at most 40%, preferably at most 30% relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Lnp) in the composition according to the present invention is from 15% to 40%, preferably from 20% to 30%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.
• composition according to the invention comprises at least three solid fatty substances including:
• solid fatty substance (or “non-liquid fatty substance”), we mean a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure ( 1.013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg).
• Solid fatty substances can be crystallized, amorphous or pasty. These may be compounds having a melting point greater than 25°C or compounds having both, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• solid fatty substances mention may for example be made of solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols (such as for example myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), solid esters of fatty acids.
• fatty alcohol such as for example octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.
• solid fatty ethers such as for example octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.
• solid fatty ethers such as for example octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.
• solid fatty ethers such as for example octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, steary
• waxes present an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
• the waxes can be of vegetable origin (sunflower, rice, Candellila waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, etc.), animal (natural waxes). bee, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, etc.), mineral (paraffin, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, etc.) or synthetic (polyolefins such as polyethylene waxes, polyalphaolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, etc.).
• pasty fatty substance within the meaning of the present invention is meant a fatty substance with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
• the solid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25°C can represent 10 to 90% by mass of the compound.
• the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound can be lower than 25°C.
• the pasty compound also has an end-of-melting temperature which may, for example, be less than 60°C.
• the end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted. Measuring the melting temperature and determining the end of melting temperature can be carried out according to the protocol described in document WO2020/127383.
• the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
• the melting point of solid fatty substances can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the “TA Universal Analysis” software. ". Document W02022/003026 describes the measurement protocols applicable depending on whether the solid fatty substance is a wax or a pasty compound.
• DSC differential scanning calorimeter
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least one first solid fatty substance having a melting point less than 30°C, preferably less than or equal to 28°C.
• the solid fatty substance may have a melting point between 20°C and 30°C, preferably ranging from 22°C to 28°C.
• It can for example be a pasty fatty substance (comprising both a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at 25°C) or a compound (or a mixture of compounds) having a melting point of between 25 °C and 30°C (for example a solid fatty acid, a solid fatty alcohol, a solid ester of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohols, a mixture of this type of fatty substance, etc.).
• the first solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance.
• the first solid fatty substance is of natural origin.
• the first solid fatty substances that can be used, we can cite the pasty solid marketed under the name "HYDROBASE® 24/26" (INCI name: COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL) by the company LABORATOIRES PROD' HYG (France) or the pasty solid marketed by the company DUBOIS STEARINERIE S. A. (France) under the name DUB SOLIDE (INCI name: STEARYL HEPTANOATE (and) STEARYL CAPRYLATE and melting point of approximately 23°C to 27° VS).
• the mass content of solid fatty substance with a melting point below 30°C (SI) may be at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 15%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point below 30°C (SI) may be at most 30%, preferably at most 25%, more preferably at most 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point below 30°C (SI) is 5% to 30%, preferably 10% to 25%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second solid fatty substance having a melting point ranging from 30°C to 40°C, preferably from 30°C to 37°C. It can for example be a pasty fatty substance (comprising both a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at 25°C) or a compound with a corresponding melting point (for example a solid fatty acid, an alcohol solid fat, a solid ester of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohols, a mixture of this type of fatty substance, etc.).
• the second solid fatty substance is a pasty fatty substance.
• the second solid fatty substance is of natural origin.
• second solid fatty substances which can be used, we can cite shea butter (INCI name: BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER), mango butter (INCI name: MANGIFERA INDICA SEED BUTTER), cocoa butter (INCI name: THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) SEED BUTTER and melting point of approximately 33°C to 38°C), kokum butter (INCI name: GARCINIA INDIC A SEED BUTTER), pasty solid marketed by the company LABORATOIRES PROD'HYG (France) under the name “HYDROBASE® 32/34” (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCONUT OIL and melting point of approximately 32°C to 34°C), and more generally vegetable butters with a melting point ranging from 30 °C to 40°C.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 30°C to 40°C (S2) can be at least 10%, preferably at least 15%, more preferably at least 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 30°C to 40°C (S2) can be at most 40%, preferably at most 30%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 30°C to 40°C (S2) is 10% to 40%, preferably 15% to 40%, more preferably 20% to 30%. %, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least a third solid fatty substance having a melting point of at least 60°C, preferably ranging from 60°C to 100°C. It may for example be a wax or a compound with a corresponding melting point (for example solid fatty acid, solid fatty alcohol, solid ester of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohols, etc.). According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of several solid fatty substances having a melting point of at least 60°C, preferably ranging from 60°C to 100°C.
• the solid fatty substance(s) (S3) which can be used have a melting point ranging from 60°C to 90°C. This presents an advantage for the implementation of the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention, in particular for the heating temperatures and the energy necessary for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention.
• the at least one third solid fatty substance with a melting point of at least 60°C is of natural origin.
• waxes of animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, wax of Ouricury, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax, sunflower such as that marketed by the company KAHL GMBH & Co. KG (Germany) under the name Kahlwax 6607L (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA; melting point of approximately 74°C to 80°C);
• - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils such as for example hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, melting point of approximately 85°C to 88°C), marketed wax by the company BASF under the name Cegesoft® HF 62 (INCI name: HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL and melting point of approximately 60°C to 63°C);
• fatty alcohol such as for example cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.
• fatty acids such as for example palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, etc.
• fatty esters such as glycerol behenate, etc.
• the mass content of solid fatty substance with a melting point of at least 60°C (S3) may be at least 5%, preferably at least 8%, more preferably at least 10%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point of at least 60°C (S3) may be at most 20%, preferably at most 15%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point of at least 60°C (S3) is 5% to 20%, preferably 8% to 15%, more preferably 10% to 15%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least two solid fatty substances having a melting point of at least 60°C (S3), one of which (S3a) has a melting point greater than 80 °C, preferably between 80°C and 90°C. This allows better stability and sensoriality of the melting composition according to the present invention.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point greater than 80°C (S3 a) may be at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 1.5 % relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point greater than 80°C (S3 a), may be at most 5%, preferably at most 4%, more preferably at most 3%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the mass content of solid fatty substances with a melting point greater than 80°C (S3a) is 0.5% to 5%, preferably 0.5% to 4%, more preferably 1% to 3%. %, and better from 1.5% to 3%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the ratio of the mass content of solid fatty substance with a melting point of 30°C to 40°C (S2) to the mass content of solid fatty substance with a melting point of at least 60°C (S3) is 1/1 to 3/1, preferably 1.5/1 to 3/1 and more preferably 1.5/1 to 2/1.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more formulation agents, in particular classic cosmetic active ingredients or excipients.
• formulation agents can be chosen appropriately depending on the use of the composition of the invention.
• Non-limiting examples of formulation agents include active ingredients, organic solvents (for example alcohols and polyols), rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), hydrophilic or lipophilic agents, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, anti-foaming agents, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric), fillers (for example mattifying powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotective agents, organic and/or inorganic, active in UVA and/or UVB), dyes, chelating agents (chelating), alkalizing or acidifying agents, pH adjusters, preservatives , perfumes or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
• the quantities of these different compounds are those conventionally used in the fields considered. These compounds, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the hydrophilic phase dis
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one active ingredient.
• active ingredient we can cite for example:
• - tightening or anti-wrinkle agents such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (for example soy protein extract);
• - moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin
• anti-inflammatory agents such as for example glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts
• anti-microbial or antibacterial agents such as salicylic acid
• vitamins and pro-vitamins such as retinol or vitamin A, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives such as for example the esters of these vitamins);
• composition according to the invention may also comprise additional fatty substances.
• additional fatty substances we mean fatty substances different from those defined previously. These may for example be polar oils and/or solid fatty substances other than those defined above (other than SI, S2 and S3).
• Vegetable oils can be chosen from triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric acid triglycerides.
• Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.
• Glycerides are esters of glycerol and one (monoglycerides) or several (diglycerides and triglycerides) fatty acids. They can be of natural origin (such as, for example, capric/caprylic acid triglycerides) or synthetic (for example, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides). Preferably, the glycerides are of natural origin.
• the fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention may be more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• Non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, alcohol oleic or linoleic alcohol.
• the fatty alcohols which can be used as fatty substances are preferably of natural origin.
• fatty esters have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hy groups. - droxyl. They can be chosen from fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, optionally hydroxylated.
• esters different from the triglycerides mentioned above, can be chosen in particular from esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear or branched in Cl to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear or branched in Cl at C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6.
• Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohols include linoleyl lactate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, d ethyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl myristate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl lactate, diisopropyl adipate , etc.
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional liquid fatty substance.
• “Additional liquid fatty substance” also called “additional oil” means an oil different from the non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Lnp) defined previously. These may, for example, be polar oils.
• the at least one additional liquid fatty substance may be chosen from vegetable oils, glycerides (including triglycerides), fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
• the mass content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Lnp) is greater than the mass content of each additional oil. More preferably, at least one non-polar hydrocarbon oil (Lnp) is in the majority.
• the total mass content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) (Lnp) is greater than to the total mass content of additional liquid fatty substances). That is to say that the mass content of non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) (Lnp) represents more than 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of liquid fatty substances in the composition.
• the mass content of additional fatty substances, preferably liquid, may be at most 20%, preferably at most 15%, more preferably at most 10%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
• the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the skin, lips, eye contour and eyelashes.
• the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or removing make-up from the face, including the lips, eyes and eyelashes.
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic, non-therapeutic process for cleaning keratin materials comprising a step of applying to the keratin materials, in particular on the face, a composition according to the invention and a step of rinsing the keratin materials, particularly on the face, with water.
• the invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below.
• the compounds or raw materials used are named by their INCI name. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages indicated are mass percentages. The words “n.d.” means “not determined”.
• compositions according to Examples 1 to 16 are prepared according to the procedure described below with the proportions in % indicated in Tables 1 to 4 below.
• the different compositions are also evaluated in terms of their organoleptic properties (appearance, color, odor), their stability over time, their application properties and their performance (effectiveness).
• CITHROL 10 GTIS (INCI name: PEG-20 Glyceryl triisostearate), marketed by the company.
• Dub MCT 5545 (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), marketed by the company DUBOIS.
• HYDROBASE 24-26 (INCI name: Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil), marketed by the company PRODHYG LABORATOIRES S A.
• HYDROBASE 32-34 (INCI name: Hydrogenated coconut oil), marketed by the company PRODHYG LABORATOIRES S A.
• TRIGLYCERIDES C16-C24 (INCI name: Hydrogenated vegetable oil), marketed by the company BASF.
• KAHLWAX 6607L (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (and) ascorbyl palmitate (and) tocopherol (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), marketed by the company INGRETECH.
• HYDROGENED CASTOR OIL (INCI name: Hydrogenated castor oil), marketed by the company BASF.
• ACTICIRE (INCI name: Jojoba esters (and) polyglycerin-3 (and) acacia decurrens flower wax (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax), marketed by the company GATTEFOSSE FRANCE SAS.
• CETIOL CC (INCI name: Dicaprylyl carbonate (and) tocopherol), marketed by the company BASF.
• VEGELIGHT SILK (INCI name: C9-12 Alkane), marketed by the company BIO-SYNTHIS (France).
• CETIOL C5C (INCI name: Coco-caprylate/caprate (and) Tocopherol), marketed by the company BASF.
• BELSIL DM 5 (INCI name: Dimethicone), marketed by the company WACKER.
• REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), marketed by the company OLISUD.
• CETIOL OE (INCI name: Dicaprylyl ether (and) Tocopherol), marketed by the company BASF.
• FAIR FAIR ORGANIC SHEA BUTTER (INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), marketed by the company OLVEA SAS.
• CASTOR OIL (INCI name: Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil), marketed by the company BERTIN.
• TOCOPHEROL ACETATE (INCI name: Tocopheryl acetate), marketed by the company BASF.
• COVIOX T70C (INCI name: Tocopherol), marketed by the company BASF.
• VELSAN SC (INCI name: Sorbitan Caprylate), marketed by the company CLARIANT.
• Wilfarin EP997 (INCI name: glycerin), marketed by the company WILMAR.
• TAPIOCA PURE (INCI name: Tapioca starch), marketed by the company QUIMICA MASSO SA.
• RHEANCE ONE (INCI name: Glycolipids (and) aqua/water/eau (and) sodium benzoate), marketed by the company EVONIK GMBH.
• LEXGARD GMCY MB (INCI name: glyceryl caprylate), marketed by the company INOLEX.
• D PANTHENOL 75 L (INCI name: PANTHENOL (and) AQUA/WATER/EAU), marketed by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS EUROPE LTD.
• Comparative compositions 1 and 2 differ from composition 3 according to the invention in that they do not include the same emulsifier.
• the stability tests carried out according to the procedure described below show that these comparative compositions are not stable.
• composition 2, which is very close to composition 3 according to the invention (the emulsifier polyglyceryl 10-laurate is used instead of polyglyceryl 10-myristate), is unstable (release of oil on the surface) .
• it forms agglomerates when rinsing.
• composition 3 according to the invention (comprising 15% polyglyceryl-10-myristate) and composition 4 according to the invention (comprising 10% polyglyceryl-10-myristate), are stable at 50 °C for 1 month and in temperature cycles.
• Comparative composition 5 which does not include a solid fatty substance with a melting point of at least 60°C (S3), is not stable.
• Comparative compositions 6 to 8 differ from the composition according to the invention in that the non-polar oil is substituted by relatively polar oils (silicone oil for composition 6, sunflower oil for composition 7 and jojoba oil for composition 8).
• Composition 6 is stable for 24 hours but its stability over time has not been studied because it forms agglomerates when rinsing with water and is difficult to remove during rinsing (as described later) which makes it unsuitable .
• Composition 7 containing sunflower oil is stable but the effectiveness tests detailed below show that this composition is not effective for removing makeup. In addition, it leaves a feeling of oily film on the skin. Finally, the stability tests show that composition 8 is not stable (release of oil on the surface).
• compositions 9 to 12 constitute other examples of producing compositions according to the invention.
• compositions 9 and 10 contain other non-polar oils (a dialkyl ether oil and a dialkyl carbonate oil).
• Composition 12 according to the invention gives another example of a composition containing 8% polyglyceryl 10-myristate.
• compositions according to the invention 13 to 15 constitute other examples of embodiment of compositions further comprising powders (cellulose and tapioca starch powders, making it possible to provide a powdery and soft touch to the compositions according to the invention). Stability tests show that these compositions are stable despite the presence of these powders.
• Composition 15 is an example of a composition further comprising 5% glycerin, and is therefore in the form of a dispersion of hydrophilic phase (glycerin) in a lipophilic phase. Stability tests show that this composition is stable, despite the presence of glycerin and cellulose powders.
• compositions 1 to 4 and 11 comprising a non-polar alkane oil:
• a phase A is prepared by melting the mixture of corresponding ingredients in a water bath at 85°C, with Rayneri stirring equipped with a rotor stator at 1000 rpm (rotations per minute), until complete fusion.
• the mixture of phase A is melted, the mixture is left to cool under a rotor-stator, with stirring at 1000 rpm (rotations per minute).
• phase A When the mixture obtained (phase A) reaches a temperature of 65°C, phase B (non-polar alkane oil) is added in a thin stream. Agitation is then increased to 2500 rpm until a temperature of 63°C is reached.
• phase C When the mixture obtained (phases A and B) reaches a temperature of 63°C, the previously mixed phase C is added and stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.
• the mixture obtained is then poured into a container (pot type).
• a solid composition (500 g) of off-white color is obtained with a thick, smooth and homogeneous balsam texture.
• composition 12 (comprising a non-polar alkane oil and glycolipids):
• Phase A is prepared by melting the mixture of corresponding ingredients in a water bath at 85°C, with Rayneri stirring equipped with a stator rotor. When the mixture of phase A is melted, the mixture is left to cool under a rotor-stator, with stirring at 1000 rpm (rotations per minute) and phase B (non-polar alkane oil) is added in a thin stream.
• Phase D emulsifying Glycolipids
• phase C perfume
• the mixture obtained is then poured into a container (pot type), the temperature of the mixture being approximately 59°C.
• a solid composition (500 g) of off-white color is obtained with a balsam texture thick, smooth and homogeneous.
• compositions 5 to 10 and 13 to 16 comprising a non-polar oil other than an alkane oil:
• phase A The ingredients of phase A are mixed with phase B and everything is heated in a water bath at 85°C to melt the mixture, with Rayneri stirring equipped with a stator rotor until the ingredients are completely melted.
• the mixture phases A and B
• the mixture is left to cool under a rotor-stator, with stirring at 1000 rpm (rotations per minute).
• stirring is increased to 2500 rpm (the mixture gradually increases in viscosity and also increases in temperature during stirring). Agitation is maintained at 2500 rpm until the temperature of 67°C is reached. Agitation is then reduced to 1200 rpm and the mixture is allowed to cool a few degrees.
• compositions comprising ingredients in phase C when the mixture obtained reaches a temperature of 58°C, the previously mixed phase C is added and stirring is increased to 2000 rpm for 15 minutes.
• the penetration depth is measured after obtaining the solid composition, after 24 hours of storage in an oven at 20°C, according to the measuring device mentioned above. Penetration depth values are listed in Tables 1 to 4.
• the stability of the solid compositions is studied after storage in different conditions, in particular under accelerated aging conditions in ovens thermostatically controlled at 50°C for 1 month.
• five glass vials are tested for stability: at room temperature (RT) in the dark, and in a thermo-controlled study in the dark at 4°C for 3 months, at 40°C for 3 months, at 50°C for 1 month and in temperature cycles for 1 month (automatic temperature cycles ranging from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours).
• t time
• the organoleptic evaluation consists of evaluating the overall characteristics of the samples with the naked eye (color, possible sedimentation, possible presence of grains, possible release of oil on the surface, hardness and/or constant consistency over time) and the odor of the samples after storage in comparison with the control composition stored in the dark at 4°C.
• compositions 1 and 2 which do not include the specific emulsifier, are not stable (release from the end of manufacturing).
• comparative compositions 6 to 8 which do not include non-polar oil, the stability is compromised and/or makeup removal is insufficient.
• the compositions according to the invention are stable, homogeneous (without the phenomenon of oil release or oozing, or formation of grains) and maintain a thick balsam texture over time. In addition, they also remain homogeneous after crushing the composition.
• compositions 3, 6, 7, 9 and 10 The evaluation of the effectiveness of cleaning and rinsing as well as the evaluation of the sensory properties are carried out, on a panel of 10 expert people, for compositions 3, 6, 7, 9 and 10. These compositions differ only in the nature of the oil used (same % of ingredients).
• the effectiveness of cleaning or makeup removal (ability of the product to soften on the skin and to loosen and/or melt the makeup) is evaluated visually on a scale of 1 (insufficient melting and/or insufficient effectiveness, the makeup remains attached to the skin, need to rub for a long time to remove the makeup) at 5 (good softening, very good effectiveness, the makeup is well removed from the skin)
• compositions 3, 9 and 10 according to the invention make it possible to reconcile all of the desired properties such as stability, consistency that is both solid and soft, and makeup removal performance ( even to remove stubborn makeup), rinsing performance and sensoriality with an easy and melting application of the product on the skin.
• the compositions according to the invention are easy to collect (just the necessary quantity of solid is easily graspable with a spatula, spoon or finger), and have a soft, non-sticky or glutinous texture ("sampling"net”).
• the compositions according to the invention leave the skin soft after rinsing, without feeling of an oily film, drying or tightness.
• the particular combination of ingredients according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain a flexible and soft solid composition, with a high level of naturalness, while presenting the required sensory and stability properties.

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