EP4537700A1 - Vorrichtung zum verbinden eines edelsteins oder eines halbfrässteins auf einem träger - Google Patents

Vorrichtung zum verbinden eines edelsteins oder eines halbfrässteins auf einem träger Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4537700A1
EP4537700A1 EP23203541.0A EP23203541A EP4537700A1 EP 4537700 A1 EP4537700 A1 EP 4537700A1 EP 23203541 A EP23203541 A EP 23203541A EP 4537700 A1 EP4537700 A1 EP 4537700A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
belt
stone
support
claws
base
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23203541.0A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Maxime Geib
Ludovic PROVENT
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Richemont International SA
Original Assignee
Richemont International SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Richemont International SA filed Critical Richemont International SA
Priority to EP23203541.0A priority Critical patent/EP4537700A1/de
Publication of EP4537700A1 publication Critical patent/EP4537700A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C9/00—Finger-rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the present invention also relates to a piece of jewelry comprising a support carrying such an assembly device, preferably a solitaire type ring.
  • a bezel or more generally, an assembly device meeting the above characteristics to mount a stone on a support, for example to make a solitaire ring.
  • a single stone is mounted on the body of the ring and is particularly highlighted there most of the time.
  • the use of a bezel according to the above characteristics makes it possible to offer a relatively airy mounting of the stone, since part of its periphery remains free and visible.
  • a main aim of the present invention is to propose a device for assembling or setting a precious or semi-precious stone, which allows the implementation of an alternative setting method to the known approaches for setting this stone on a support, in particular for manufacturing a piece of jewelry, and which is at the same time simple, robust and reliable, while preserving a good level of visibility of the stone when it is mounted on its support, in particular by the implementation of setting means which are relatively discreet.
  • the present invention relates more particularly to a device for assembling a precious or semi-precious stone, of the type indicated above, characterized by the fact that each of its claws is made of diamond, synthetic or natural.
  • a device for assembling or setting a stone is obtained that is both attractive and discreet.
  • a conventional setting essentially has a technical function, aimed at making a stone integral with a support, and the jeweler generally seeks to make it discreet, to integrate it perfectly into the overall aesthetics of the corresponding jewel, taking into account the shape and material of the support.
  • the present invention makes it possible to increase the contribution of the assembly device to the overall value of the jewel, not only because of the intrinsic value of the diamond used for its creation, but also by the added value resulting from the work necessary to manufacture the various components.
  • the transparency of the diamond makes it possible to optimize the enhancement of the set stone thanks to the assembly device according to the present invention.
  • the base is also made of synthetic or natural diamond.
  • the attachment device also includes a belt intended to support the stone and to be secured to the claws.
  • the belt it is advantageous to plan for the belt to also be made of synthetic or natural diamond.
  • the base, the belt and the claws are all made of synthetic diamond.
  • the base and the belt each have a general shape extending in a mean plane and having a mean central axis, perpendicular to the corresponding mean plane, and that the base and the belt are intended to be arranged by being superimposed in such a way that their central axes are substantially coaxial.
  • the general shape of the base has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.
  • the general shape of the belt has a symmetry of revolution along its mean central axis.
  • the respective general shapes of the base and the belt are substantially homothetic, preferably annular, not only for aesthetic considerations but also to optimize the robustness of the final assembly of the kitten.
  • the belt has a generally annular shape, with a substantially circular central opening and whose periphery located on the side intended to cooperate with the stone is substantially conical. Such a characteristic makes it possible to guarantee good mechanical hold of the stone on the belt.
  • each of the claws comprises a cutout defining a support intended to be positioned against the base and/or that each of the claws comprises a groove defining at least one support surface for the belt and/or that each of the claws comprises a latching zone intended to cooperate with the stone during its assembly.
  • the present invention also relates to a piece of jewelry comprising a support carrying an assembly device according to the preceding characteristics.
  • each of the claws is made integral with the base and/or the belt, when there is one, by brazing.
  • the support prefferably be metallic and, possibly in this case, for the base to be made integral by brazing.
  • the present invention also relates to an article of jewelry or jewel according to all or part of the preceding characteristics and taking the form of a ring, preferably of the solitaire type.
  • the ring includes palmettes connecting the support to the belt, these preferably being brazed onto the belt to improve the robustness of the assembly.
  • the jewelry item may include several set stones, each of which is assembled to a corresponding support by means of an assembly device as described above.
  • the jewelry item may be a ring, a bracelet, a necklace, earrings, a brooch, a crown, without this list being exhaustive.
  • FIG. 1 represents an overall view, in simplified perspective, of an assembly device 1 or bezel, assembled, housing a precious or semi-precious stone, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • the kitten 1 here has a base 2, intended to be made integral with a support 4 (illustrated only on the Figure 2 , in the form of a ring body), a belt 6 arranged to define a seat for a stone 8, and claws 10, arranged to achieve not only the assembly of the entire setting 1, being integral with both the base 2 and the belt 6, but also the retention of the stone 8.
  • the stone 8 may be of any type, preferably precious or semi-precious, for example a diamond, otherwise the costs relating to the manufacture of the setting 1 according to the present invention would be disproportionate to the value of the stone which it can be mounted.
  • the belt 6 and the claws 10 are made of diamond, synthetic or natural.
  • the base 2 can also be made of diamond, synthetic or natural.
  • the base 2 is metallic, preferably of the same metal as the support 4 when the latter is metallic.
  • any known suitable method may be used to manufacture synthetic diamonds intended to enable the manufacture of the various components of the setting 1 according to the invention. However, it seems simpler for the jeweler wishing to implement such a setting, according to the invention, to obtain commercially available diamonds, which he will cut or have cut according to his own needs. More and more laboratories offer synthetic diamonds, some of which have a higher purity than natural diamonds. Here is a link to the website of a Swiss supplier of industrial diamonds, indicated for information purposes only. non-limiting example: https://www.swissdiamondlab.ch/ . This supplier also offers to cut its synthetic diamonds to measure, by laser machining on a 5-axis machine.
  • FIG. 2 represents a simplified perspective view of a solitaire comprising bezel 1 of the Figure 1 with stone 8 in place, setting 1 being shown exploded this time to make certain construction details more visible.
  • the support 4 here has the shape of a ring body or ring on which a stone 8 is intended to be mounted by means of the setting 1 to create a solitaire.
  • the support 4 is preferably metallic, advantageously made of precious metal such as silver, gold, platinum, palladium, rhodium, titanium or tungsten or one of their alloys.
  • precious metal such as silver, gold, platinum, palladium, rhodium, titanium or tungsten or one of their alloys.
  • a gold alloy may be used which will preferably be at least 14 carats, more preferably at least 18 carats.
  • the support 4 is made of diamond, synthetic or natural, in a single piece or made up of an assembly of several parts.
  • the support 4 is prepared to receive the setting 1 and allow its integration in a suitable manner both aesthetically and mechanically, to ensure its proper holding.
  • the support 4 is here provided with palmettes 12 arranged on either side of the setting 1, being shaped and sized so as to bear against the belt 6 in the mid-plane of the support 4.
  • the palmettes 12 can be made of the same metal as the support and can be made integral with the latter by brazing or welding.
  • FIG. 3 represents an enlargement of kitten 1 as illustrated in the Figure 2 , exploded view, to make certain construction details more visible.
  • the base 2 has a conical upper surface, preferably by way of non-limiting illustration, each of the claws 10 having a cutout 14 of substantially complementary shape to define a stable connection between the base 2 and the claws 10.
  • the belt 6 has an external envelope having a first portion 16 substantially horizontal relative to the orientation illustrated in the Figure 3 , defining a substantially flat bottom, followed by a second portion 18 slightly inclined relative to the vertical on the view of the Figure 3 , then a third portion 20 inclined at approximately 40 to 60 degrees relative to the second portion 18.
  • each of the claws 10 comprises a groove 22 whose profile is complementary to that of the external envelope of the belt 6.
  • each of the claws 10 also includes a latching zone 24 (i.e. a machining defining a groove) in its upper part intended to cooperate with the stone 8.
  • This latching zone 24 has a general V-shaped profile intended to cooperate both with the pavilion of the stone 8 and with its crown to ensure perfect mechanical strength. in the setting 1.
  • each of the claws 10 only has a simple portion covering the crown of the stone 8, a counter-support ensuring the holding of the stone 8 being already provided at the level of the belt 6.
  • the belt 6 here has a generally annular shape with a substantially circular central opening adapted to the shape of the stone 8 illustrated as a non-limiting example.
  • the upper periphery (in the view of the Figure 3 ) of the central opening intended to cooperate with the stone 8 advantageously has a substantially conical shape whose cone angle corresponds to that of the culet of the stone 8, in order to once again optimize the quality of the contact between the stone 8 and the setting 1.
  • the different components of the setting 1 may have different shapes from those illustrated, in particular to take into account a different shape that the stone to be set would have.
  • the base 2 and the belt 6 each have a general shape extending in a mean plane and having a mean central axis, perpendicular to the corresponding mean plane, and that the base 2 and the belt 6 are intended to be arranged by being superimposed in such a way that their central axes are substantially coaxial.
  • the general shape of the base 2 has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.
  • the general shape of the belt 6 has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.
  • the respective general shapes of the base 2 and the belt 6 are substantially homothetic, preferably annular as is the case on the figures 1 to 3 , not only for aesthetic considerations but also to optimize the robustness of the final assembly of the kitten 1.
  • the placement of the stone 8 in the setting 1 is simplified when the belt 6 is made in two parts.
  • the two claws 10 located to the left and to the right of the Figure 3 are already brazed to the belt 6 before forming the belt 6 by joining its two halves.
  • the other two claws 10 can then be brazed to the belt 6, finishing enclosing the stone 8 and masking the junctions of the two parts of the belt 6 if necessary.
  • the four claws 10 can finally be made integral with the base 2 by brazing.
  • a device for mounting a precious or semi-precious stone on a support, in particular for making a piece of jewelry, which makes it possible to guarantee excellent holding of the set stone, while preserving its visibility for an observer.
  • the setting according to the present invention enhances the perceived quality of the corresponding piece of jewelry thanks to the originality of its design and its high level of technicality.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
EP23203541.0A 2023-10-13 2023-10-13 Vorrichtung zum verbinden eines edelsteins oder eines halbfrässteins auf einem träger Pending EP4537700A1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP23203541.0A EP4537700A1 (de) 2023-10-13 2023-10-13 Vorrichtung zum verbinden eines edelsteins oder eines halbfrässteins auf einem träger

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP23203541.0A EP4537700A1 (de) 2023-10-13 2023-10-13 Vorrichtung zum verbinden eines edelsteins oder eines halbfrässteins auf einem träger

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4537700A1 true EP4537700A1 (de) 2025-04-16

Family

ID=88413819

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP23203541.0A Pending EP4537700A1 (de) 2023-10-13 2023-10-13 Vorrichtung zum verbinden eines edelsteins oder eines halbfrässteins auf einem träger

Country Status (1)

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EP (1) EP4537700A1 (de)

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20110226016A1 (en) * 2010-03-16 2011-09-22 Terrence Dashon Howard Diamond earring with washer
WO2016086323A1 (fr) 2014-12-02 2016-06-09 Cartier International Ag Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support
US20170135450A1 (en) * 2012-08-20 2017-05-18 Forever Mount, LLC Brazed Joint for Attachment of Gemstones to Each Other and/or a Metallic Mount
EP3181005A1 (de) 2015-06-24 2017-06-21 KTL Jewellery Trading Ltd. Verbunddiamantschmuck und herstellungsverfahren dafür
US20210137228A1 (en) * 2019-11-12 2021-05-13 H. K. Designs Inc. Size enhancer precious stone setting
CN216363966U (zh) * 2021-11-22 2022-04-26 深圳市金钻珠宝有限公司 一种宝石夹持结构以及应用其的首饰

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20110226016A1 (en) * 2010-03-16 2011-09-22 Terrence Dashon Howard Diamond earring with washer
US20170135450A1 (en) * 2012-08-20 2017-05-18 Forever Mount, LLC Brazed Joint for Attachment of Gemstones to Each Other and/or a Metallic Mount
WO2016086323A1 (fr) 2014-12-02 2016-06-09 Cartier International Ag Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support
EP3181005A1 (de) 2015-06-24 2017-06-21 KTL Jewellery Trading Ltd. Verbunddiamantschmuck und herstellungsverfahren dafür
US20210137228A1 (en) * 2019-11-12 2021-05-13 H. K. Designs Inc. Size enhancer precious stone setting
CN216363966U (zh) * 2021-11-22 2022-04-26 深圳市金钻珠宝有限公司 一种宝石夹持结构以及应用其的首饰

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