Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/42—Amides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, particularly to the field of cosmetic compositions for the care of dyed hair.
• the hair colouration is a specific field of cosmetics.
• the hair colouration is a common procedure particularly among women and is performed by using hair dyes.
• Hair dyes are classified, according to colour resistance, into temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent and permanent.
• the first two are based on molecules which are already coloured.
• Temporary dyes act through dye deposition on cuticles, but semipermanent may penetrate a little into the cortex and so the colour resists up to typically six washes.
• Demipermanent and permanent hair dyes are based on colour precursors, called oxidation dyes, and the final shade is developed by their interactions with an oxidizing agent, but they differ from the alkalizing agent used. In oxidation systems, there is an intense diffusion of the molecules into the cortex, what promotes a longer colour resistance.
• the problem to be solved by the present invention is to offer a product which increases the colour resistance of dyed hair.
• ester of a fatty acid and dextrin is a dextrin palmitate as commercialized as Rheopearl® KL2 by Chiba Flour Milling.
• the emulsion particularly contains an oily phase and an aqueous phase such as in particular O/W, W/O, Si/W, W/Si, O/W/O, W/O/W multiple or a pickering emulsions.
• Suitable liquid organic UV-filter absorb light in the UV(B) and/ or UV(A) range and are liquid at ambient temperature (i.e. 25°C).
• Such liquid UV-filter are well known to a person in the art and encompass in particular cinnamates such as e.g. octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL® MCX) and isoamyl methoxycinnamate (Neo Heliopan® E 1000), salicylates such as e.g.
• Bisoctrizole is a broad-spectrum ultraviolet radiation filter, absorbing UV(B) as well as UV(A) rays and has an excellent photostability. It has an absorp- tion maximum at 308 nm and 349 nm. However, next to absorption of UV light, it also reflects and scatters UV light. Therefore, Bisoctrizole is a hybrid UV absorber, an organic UV filter produced in microfine organic particles ( ⁇ 200 nm). Where other organic UV filters need to be dissolved in either the oil or water phase, bisoctrizole dissolves poorly in both and is applied as invisible particle.
• a preferred solid organic UV(A) filter is a UV(A) filter which is selected from the group consisting of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and tris- biphenyl triazine.
• the hair care composition may contain the usual oily and fatty components which may be chosen from mineral oils and mineral waxes; oils such as triglycerides of caprinic acid and/or caprylic acid or castor oil; oils or waxes and other natural or synthetic oils, in a preferred embodiment esters of fatty acids with alcohols e.g. isopropanol, propyleneglycol, glycerin or esters of fatty alcohols with carbonic acids or fatty acids; alkyl- benzoates; and/or silicone oils.
• oils such as triglycerides of caprinic acid and/or caprylic acid or castor oil
• oils or waxes and other natural or synthetic oils in a preferred embodiment esters of fatty acids with alcohols e.g. isopropanol, propyleneglycol, glycerin or esters of fatty alcohols with carbonic acids or fatty acids; alkyl- benzoates; and/or silicone oils.
• Exemplary fatty substances which can be particularly incorporated in the oil phase of the emulsion, microemulsion, oleo gel, hydrodispersion or lipodispersion are advantageously chosen from esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl carboxylic acids with 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and saturated and/or unsaturated, linear and/or branched alcohols with 3 to 30 carbon atoms as well as esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and of saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols of 3-30 carbon atoms.
• esters can advantageously be selected from octylpalmitate, octylcocoate, octylisostearate, octyldodecylmyris- tate, cetearylisononanoate, isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl- stearate, isopropyloleate, n-butylstearate, n-hexyllaurate, n-decyloleate, isooctyl- stearate, isononylstearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl hexylpalmitate, 2-ethyl- hexyllaurate, 2-hexyldecylstearate, 2-octyldodecylpalmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyloleate, oleylerucate
• fatty components particularly suitable for hair conditioner, include polar oils such as lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, straight or branched carboxylic acid with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon-atoms whereas the fatty acid triglycerides are preferably chosen from synthetic, half synthetic or natural oils (e.g.
• cocoglyceride olive oil, sun flower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rape seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, wheat oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil and others); apolar oils such as linear and/ or branched hydrocarbons and waxes e.g.
• mineral oils vaseline (petrolatum); paraffins, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecanes, favored polyolefins are polydecenes; dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylylether; linear or cyclic silicone oils such as preferably cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane; cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane) and mixtures thereof.
• cyclomethicone octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
• cetyldimethicone cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane) and mixtures thereof.
• fatty components which can advantageously be incorporated in hair conditioners are isoeicosane; neopentylglycoldiheptanoate; propyleneglycol- dicaprylate/ dicaprate; caprylic/ capric/ diglycerylsuccinate; butyleneglycol caprylat/caprat; C 12-13 -alkyllactate; di- C 12-13 -alkyltartrate; triisostearin; dipenta- erythrityl hexacaprylat/hexacaprate; propyleneglycolmonoisostearate; tricaprylin or dimethylisosorbid.
• mixtures C 12-15 -alky I- benzoate and 2-ethylhexylisostearate mixtures C 12-15 -alkylbenzoate and isotri- decylisononanoate as well as mixtures of C 12-15 -alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl- isostearate and isotridecylisononanoate.
• the oily phase of the conditioner preparation can also contain natural vegetable or animal waxes such as bees wax, china wax, bumblebee wax and other waxes of insects as well as shea butter and cocoa butter.
• natural vegetable or animal waxes such as bees wax, china wax, bumblebee wax and other waxes of insects as well as shea butter and cocoa butter.
• Suitable silicone oils are e.g. dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic siloxanes, poly(methylphenylsiloxanes) as well as amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluor-, glycoside-, and/or alkyl modified silicone compounds which are liquid or solid at room temperature and mixtures thereof.
• the number average molecular weight of the dimethicones and poly(methylphenylsiloxanes) is preferably in the range of 100 to 150'000 g/mol.
• Preferred cyclic siloxanes comprise 4- to 8- membered rings which are for example commercially available as cyclomethicones.
• the hair care composition is preferably a hair conditioner.
• a colour change is usually not only a change of an individual parameter L, a or b, resp. L*, a* or b*, but a change of more than one of these parameters simultaneously.
• Assessing the advantage of this invention is best realized by comparing the measured colour of dyed hair before and after washing and conditioning cycles.
• the semipermanent hair dye is advantageous in that it is very easy for application and suitable for regular use and is a way of colouring the hair particularly mild to the hair and the skin as they are not using an oxidizing agent.
• the number of different shades of hair colours is somehow more limited.
• semipermanent hair dyes are less suitable to colour gray or white hair.
• semipermanent hair dyes cannot be used to obtain a lighter shade of the actual hair colour, which limits the possibilities of colouration for people having a natural dark or black hair colour.
• Semipermanent hair dyes typically include compounds having a chromophore system that is common in dye chemistry such as nitro, azo, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, triarylmethane, and azomethane, which may be used as disperse dyes, nitro dyes, cationic (basic) dyes, anionic (acidic) dyes and metal complex dyes (as disclosed indicated in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry Vol A 12, page 586, 5th, completely revised edition, 1989).
• a chromophore system that is common in dye chemistry such as nitro, azo, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, triarylmethane, and azomethane, which may be used as disperse dyes, nitro dyes, cationic (basic) dyes, anionic (acidic) dyes and metal complex dyes (as disclosed indicated in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry Vol A 12, page 586, 5th
• nitro dyes are compounds selected from the group consisting of 2-((2-nitrophenyl)amino)ethan-1-ol (CAS: 4926-55-0), 4-((2- hydroxyethyl)amino)-3-nitrophenol (CAS: 92952-81-3), 2-((4-amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino)ethan-1-ol (CAS: 2871-04), N,N'-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p- phenylenediamine (CAS: 84041-77-0) and 2,2'-((4-((2-Hydroxyethyl)amino)-3- nitrophenyl)imino)bisethanol) (CAS: 33229-34-4), 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine (CAS: 5307-14-2) and 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine (CAS: 99-56-9).
• Oxidizing agents are usually hydrogen peroxide, and the alkaline environment is usually provided by ammonia.
• the combination of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia causes the natural hair to be lightened, providing a "blank canvas" for the dye.
• Ammonia opens the hair shaft pores so that the dye can actually diffuse inside the fiber.
• Primary intermediate agents are well known for use in hair colour, and include ortho or para substituted aminophenols or phenylenediamines, particularly para-phenylenediamines of the formula: wherein R 11 and R 12 are each independently hydrogen, C 1-6 -alkyl, or C 1-6 - alkyl substituted with one or more hydroxy, methoxy, methylsulphonylamino, aminocarbonyl, furfuryl, unsubstituted phenyl, or amino substituted phenyl groups; and
• R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are each independently hydrogen, C 1-6 -alkyl, C 1-6 - alkoxy, halogen, or C 1-6 -alkyl substituted with one or more hydroxy or amino groups.
• Preferred primary intermediate agent are selected from the group consis- ting of para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2,6-dimethyl-1 ,4- diaminobenzene, 2,5-dimethyl-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2,3-dimethyl-1 ,4-diaminoben- zene, 2-chloro-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2-methoxy-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 1 -phenyl- amino-4-aminobenzene, 1-dimethylamino-4-aminobenzene, 1-diethylamino-4- aminobenzene, 1-bis(beta-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-aminobenzene, 1 -methoxy- ethylamino-4-aminobenzene, 2-hydroxymethyl-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2-hydroxy-
• Particularly preferred primary intermediate agent are p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5- diaminotoluene, their salts and mixtures thereof.
• a particularly preferred alkanolamine is monoethanolamine (MEA).
• Permanent hair colouring compositions are commercially available in a great variety of chemistry and colours.
• Particularly suitable as permanent hair dyes are those obtained from the commercial product lines selected from the group consisting of Schwarzkopf Brilliance from Schwarzkopf, Schwarzkopf got2b Edelmetall from Schwarzkopf & Henkel, L' Oreal Preference Vivid Colors from L’ Oreal, Revlon ⁇ Total ColorTM from Revlon, Schwarzkopf Brilliance Gem Collection from Schwarzkopf & Henkel, Wella Professional Koleston Perfect Pure Naturals from Wella, Wella Koleston from Coty, Beautycolor Bela&Cor from Bonyplus, Miracle System from Josh Wood Colour, Garnier Nutrisse Ultra Creme Permanent Hair Dye from L'Oreal and Hello! Bubble Foam Color - Mise en Scene from Amorepacific.
• the hair care composition leads to an increased colour resistance of a hair dye which is applied to hair.
• the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and dextrin, and a cationic emulsifier for increasing the colour resistance of a hair dye which is applied to hair.
• the hair dye is in a one preferred embodiment a semi- permanent hair dye and in another preferred embodiment a permanent hair dye.
• Hair tresses (Kerling Nr. 826204 KT dicht, Euro-hair, remis extra bleached, color 10/0, length: 120 mm) have been dyed according to the instruction provided in the package of the semipermanent hair dye.
• the dyed tresses For each shampooing/conditioning cycle the dyed tresses have been washed with 0.5 ml of a shampoo of the composition according to table 1 per hair tress for 30 seconds, and then rinsed for 30 seconds with warm water (38°C). Then 0.5 ml of the respective conditioner (composition see table 2) is applied on each hair tress, the conditioner has remained on the hair tress for 2 minutes and washed out by 30 seconds rinsing with warm water (38°C). This procedure has been repeated 5 times so that the tresses have been washed and conditioned 5 times in total for each shampooing/conditioning cycle. At the end of each shampooing/conditioning cycle the tresses have been dried at room temperature overnight.
• the cosmetic composition as outlined in table 1 have been prepared according to standard methods in the art. Color measuring
• the L*a*b*-values of the hair tresses have been measured before the first (i.e. “after 0 cycles") and after the respective shampooing/conditioning cycles (i.e. “after 1 cycle”, “after 2 cycles” etc.), using a Konica Minolta-CM 600d color measurement device.
• the respective 3 tresses have been positioned next to each other and the L*a*b*-values have been 25 times measured and their average has been reported in tables 3, 5, 7 and 9.
• the changes in colour indicated as ⁇ L*, ⁇ a*, ⁇ b* and ⁇ E * in tables 4, 6, 8 and 10 are calculated from the color measurements of the initial values and after the respective shampooing/conditioning cycles.
• the experiments of the experimental series 2 are performed in an identical manner as those of the experimental series 1 with the only exception that the hair tresses (Kerling Nr. 826204 KT dicht, Euro-hair, proficient extra bleached, color 10/0, length: 120 mm) were of a different batch.

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• 2023
  • 2023-08-21 EP EP23757927.1A patent/EP4577310A1/de active Pending
  • 2023-08-21 KR KR1020257009047A patent/KR20250053145A/ko active Pending
  • 2023-08-21 JP JP2025505407A patent/JP2025526590A/ja active Pending
  • 2023-08-21 CN CN202380060854.6A patent/CN119816288A/zh active Pending
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