ES2301614T3 - CERAMIDES, COMPOSITIONS THAT INCLUDE THEM AND THEIR USE. - Google Patents

Abstract

Compound of the following formula (I): (See formula) where: n1 is between 17 and 35, n2 is between 9 and 18 and n3 is between 12 and 18.

Description

Ceramides, compositions that comprise them and their utilization.

The present invention aims at new ceramides and their preparation procedure, as well as their use, especially for skin care, hair and nails, in cosmetics or dermatology.

The epidermis of terrestrial vertebrates has evolved to constitute an effective barrier against loss of water, essential survival factor in a dry environment. Be has known for several decades that this barrier function is secured by a set of lipid compounds, such as free fatty acids and cholesterol and its derivatives, as well as numerous ceramide compounds. The latter are molecules extremely hydrophobic whose physicochemical organization depends closely of their molecular structures, as well as of the interactions that can exchange with proteins. It's like that certain ceramides bind covalently to proteins in the envelope of the corneocytes. These bonded ceramides ensure a effective binding between other lipids and proteins, allowing a better physicochemical stability of the whole. This concept of bound lipids (ceramides or fatty acids) also intervene in the elaboration of skin annexes, such as hair and hair nail.

The diversity and complexity of ceramic structures are such that, despite the investigations undertaken over twenty years ago, the subject matter knowledge is far from satisfactory.

US 5,869,711 describes compounds Ceramide type for treatments and skin care, of hair, nails and eyelashes in cosmetics or in dermatology.

The applicant has sought new ceramides effective in strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis. This reinforcement allows not only to better protect the skin against its drying or penetration of xenobiotics, but indirectly -improving the functional capabilities of the skin- fight against skin aging, limit or slow down disorders pigmentary, keep an immune system longer effective and thus ensure better protection against invasions microbial or viral.

This application relates to a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one of these ceramides and with the use of this ceramide especially to reinforce the lipid barrier of the epidermis and / or to improve the quality of the epidermis. The present invention relates to the use of these ceramides in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, especially dermatological

The applicant has thus discovered new compounds that can be represented by the formula (I) next:

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

one

where:

n_ {1} is between 17 and 35, preferably between 21 and 30 and preferably between 23 and 28; preferably it is still equal to 25, 26 or 27;

n_ {2} is between 9 and 18, preferably between 11 and 15 and preferably between 11 and 13; preferably it still equals 11, and

n_ {3} is between 12 and 18 and preferably between 14 and 16; preferably it is equal to 14.

These new ceramides are constituted by a base of amidated 6-OH-sphingenin by a long chain alpha-hydroxylated fatty acid and esterified in position 1 by a second saturated fatty acid of shorter chain

The ceramides of the present invention allow strengthen the lipid barrier of the epidermis and / or restore or Maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum. They can be upes used to improve the surface appearance and hydration of the skin, as well as to protect it, especially to protect the dry and rough skin. They can also be used as Essential nutrition agents for keratin matters (skin, hair, eyelash, nail).

In addition, the compositions containing these compounds can be advantageously employed to improve and / or maintain the lipid content of the human epidermis, in vivo and in vitro .

The compounds that form the object of the invention can be isolated from lipid collections performed by non-invasive methods in healthy volunteers. These lipid collections are then subjected to a treatment preparatory and analytical that allows to separate and identify the Ceramide families.

Another potential source of the compounds of the invention resides in the use of enzymes such as Transacilase acting on precursors or modulators of these enzymes

The precursors are especially compound formula (II):

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

2

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

where n_ {1} is included between 17 and 35, preferably between 21 and 30, preferably between 23 and 28, preferably equal to 25, 26 or 27; n_ {2} is between 9 and 18, preferably between 11 and 15, preferably between 11 and 13, preferably still equal to eleven.

These precursors correspond to the compounds of the invention not esterified in position 1.

All these precursors that have a free OH They may also be used to hold onto proteins of the envelope by means of an ester function, thus reinforcing the layer of lipid sizing of the corneocytes of the skin or its annexes

An object of the present invention is a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one ceramide according to the invention.

This composition is advantageously a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, especially dermatological, containing in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium to less a compound of formula (I) according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention includes the minus a compound of formula (I), alone or in admixture, in an amount  which can be between 0.005 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, especially between 0.05 and 5%, even between 0.1 and 1% by weight, with respect to to the total weight of the composition.

The physiologically acceptable medium in which they can use the compounds according to the invention, as well as their constituents, their quantity, the galenic form of the composition and their way of preparation, can be selected by the expert in the technique based on your general knowledge depending on the type of composition sought.

The composition can thus include a phase aqueous, which may consist of water, a floral water such as cornflower water, a mineral water such as VITTEL water, water of LUCAS or the water of LA ROCHE POSAY and / or a thermal water.

Said aqueous phase may also include alcohols. such as C 1 -C 6 monoalcohols, among the which can be mentioned ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; and / or polyols such as glycerol, butylene glycol, isoprenoglycol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol

The composition according to the invention can also include a fatty phase, especially constituted by bodies liquid fats at 25 ° C, such as oils of animal origin, vegetable, mineral or synthetic, volatile or not; fatty bodies solids at 25 ° C, such as animal, vegetable, mineral waxes or synthetic; pasty fatty bodies; gums; and their mixtures.

Volatile oils are generally oils which have, at 25 ° C, a saturation vapor voltage at least equal to 0.5 millibars (ie 50 Pa).

Among the constituents of the fatty phase, it They can quote:

- cyclic volatile silicones from 3 to 8 silicon atoms and preferably from 4 to 6. It is treated, by example, of cyclootetradimethylsiloxane, of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane;

- cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkyl siloxane;

- linear volatile silicones from 2 to 9 silicon atoms It is, for example, hexamethyldisiloxane or of a low viscosity PDMS (1 cSt). You can still quote the hexamethyldisiloxane and alkyltrisiloxanes, such as hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane or octylheptamethyltrisiloxane;

- volatile hydrocarbon oils, such such as isoparaffins and especially isododecane;

- the polyalkyl (C 1 -C 20) siloxanes, and especially those with trimethylsilyl end groups, among which linear polydimethylsiloxanes and alkylmethylpolysiloxanes such as cetyl dimethicone (name CTFA);

- group modified silicones aliphatic and / or aromatic, possibly fluorinated, or in groups functional such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups;

- phenylated silicone oils;

- oils of animal, vegetable or mineral, and especially animal or vegetable oils formed by fatty acid esters and polyols, in particular the liquid triglycerides, for example sunflower oils, of corn, soy, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, of hazelnut, apricot, almond or avocado; the oils of fish, glycerol tricaprocaprilato or vegetable oils or animals of formula R 1 COOR 2 where R 1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid greater than 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil; the oil of Paraffin or Vaseline, Perhydrosqualene, Germ Oil  wheat, calofilo, sesame, grapeseed, rapeseed, copra, peanut, palm, castor, jojoba, olive or cereal germ; fatty acid esters; alcohols; acetyl glycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols; fatty acid triglycerides, and glycerides;

- fluorinated and perfluorinated oils;

- silicone gums;

- waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, ozocerite, mountain wax, wax bees, lanolin and its derivatives, candelilla waxes, from ouricury, from carnauba, from Japan, cocoa butter, waxes cork or sugarcane fibers; hydrogenated oils solids at 25 ° C, ozocerites, fatty esters and glycerides solids at 25 ° C; polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils solids at 25 ° C; lanolines; solid fatty esters at 25 ° C; the waxes of sylicon; and fluorinated waxes.

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

When the composition according to the invention is presented in the form of an emulsion, it may eventually also include a surfactant, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 30% in weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention it can also include at least one coemulsifier, which can be selected from sorbitan monostearate oxyethylene, fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol, or esters of fatty acids and polyols, such like glyceryl stearate.

The composition according to the invention may include also a particulate phase, which may contain pigments and / or mother of pearl and / or loads commonly used in the compositions Cosmetics

Pigments may be present at the rate of 0-20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at a rate of 2-15%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, in size usual or nanometric. You can cite between pigments and mineral nanopigments titanium dioxides, zirconium or cerium, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, nanotitanios and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, it They can cite carbon black and lacquers commonly used to give the lips and skin a make-up effect, the which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, acid dyes such as halogen-acid, azo dyes or anthraquinonic.

Nacrees may be present in the composition at a rate of 0-20% by weight, preferably in a high proportion of the order of a 2-15% by weight. Among the contemplable mother of pearl, You can cite natural mother of pearl, the oxide-coated mica titanium, iron oxide, natural pigment or oxychloride Bismuth, as well as colored titanium mica.

Loads, which may be present in the composition at a rate of 0-20% by weight with respect to to the total weight of the composition, preferably of a 2-10%, can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or not lamellar. You can cite talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Nylon and polyethylene powders, Teflon, starch, boron nitride, microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), the politrap (Dow Corning) and the microbeads of silicone resin (Toshiba Tospearls, for example).

The composition may also include dyes. especially water-soluble selected among the dyes habitual of the considered area, such as the disodium salt of poppy, the disodium salt of alizarin green, the yellow of Quinolein, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of Fuchsin and Xanthophyll.

The composition according to the invention can also contain at least one other active product, which can be selected from moisturizers or humectants, such as glycerin, sorbitol, pentaerythritol and acid pyrrolidonecarboxylic and its salts; the softeners; the products for the treatment of skin conditions; sunscreens; germicides; the preservatives; the antioxidants; the agents of artificial tanning, such as dihydroxyacetone, the Erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, gamma-dialdehydes such as tartaric aldehyde, eventually associating these compounds to dyes; sunscreens, especially water soluble or fat soluble; the antiperspirants, the deodorants and astringents; the refreshing products, tonic, healing, keratolytic and depilatory; the waters scented; plant tissue extracts, such as polysaccharides; anti-film agents; the antiseborrhoeic agents; oxidizers such as agents of discoloration, such as hydrogen peroxide; the reducers, such as the thioglycolic acid and its salts; substances intended for improve the condition of dry or senile skins, tocopherols, vitamins E, F or A and their esters, retinoic acid, antioxidants, essential fatty acids, acid glycyrrhizin, keratolytics and carotenoids.

The composition of the invention may include also active ingredients that can help prevent or improve keratin materials, especially the skin, and even better dry, rough and / or damaged skin, such as sphingen, sphinganine or 4-OH-sphinganine; the ceramides; the glycoceramides; C 14-30 fatty acids; the triglycerides; and sterols, like cholesterol.

In a known way, the composition according to invention may include the usual adjuvants in the field considered, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, the hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, the active ingredients especially hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetics or pharmaceuticals, the solvents, perfumes, propellants and odor absorbers. The nature and quantity of these adjuvants can be selected by the person skilled in the art based on their general knowledge, so that the form of Desired presentation for the composition. In any chaos, the skilled in the art will ensure to select all possible complementary compounds and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention no are altered, or not substantially, by the association contemplated

The compositions according to the invention can thus present in the form of emulsions, hydroalcoholic lotions, oily or alcoholic, from gels, from dispersions or from solid sticks, sprays or spray foams. For one application on the skin, the composition may have the form especially of aqueous or oily solution; type dispersion lotion or serum; of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in a aqueous phase (Ac / Ag) or vice versa (Ag / Ac); of suspensions or soft consistency emulsions of the aqueous cream or gel type or anhydrous; of microcapsules or microparticles; of dispersions Ionic and / or non-ionic vesicular type.

For an application on hair, the composition may be in the form of aqueous, alcoholic solutions or hydroalcoholic; in the form of creams, gels, emulsions or foams; or in the form of aerosol compositions containing also a propellant under pressure.

The compositions are, for example, lotions, emollient milks or creams, milks or creams for the care of skin or hair, creams, lotions or cleansing milks, colored background bases, lotions, milks or sunscreen creams, lotions, milks or artificial tanning creams, creams or foams shaving, aftershave lotions, shampoos or More expensive.

These compositions can also be presented in the form of lipsticks intended to either color them, and be it to avoid cracks, or eye makeup products or blushes and colored backgrounds for the face.

The compositions according to the invention can Especially presented in form:

- of a care, treatment or treatment product protection of keratinous materials, and especially of the skin of the face or body, including the scalp, such as a care composition (day, night, moisturizing) of the face or body; an anti-wrinkle composition or anti-aging for the face; a composition matifying for the face; a composition for irritated skin; a makeup remover composition; a milk for the body, especially moisturizing, eventually after sun;

- of a sunscreen composition, of artificial tanning (self tanning) or after-care care Sun;

- of a hair composition, and especially a cream or sunscreen gel; a care composition of scalp, especially anti-fall or hair regrowth; an antiparasitic shampoo;

- of a material makeup product keratin such as a colored background, a colored cream, a blusher or eye shadow, a free or compact powder, a bar anti-dark circles, a camouflage bar, a red lips, lip care; a nail varnish, a care of the nails, a mask, a treatment mask or a profiler of eyes

The compositions according to the invention find a preferred application as a composition for the care of keratinous materials, especially of the skin, of the nails, of the eyelashes, hair and in particular dry and / or rough skin and / or damaged, and particularly as a care composition of the facial skin, moisturizing type, and as a composition of sun protection or after sun.

The present invention also has The use of the compounds of formula (I) for reinforcement of the skin barrier function and for the reinforcement of Nails and hair

More specifically, the object of the invention is the use of at least one compound of formula (I) or of a composition containing it for the preparation of a composition, especially cosmetic or pharmaceutical, intended to reinforce the lipid barrier of the epidermis, especially of dry and / or rough and / or damaged skin, and / or restore or maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum and / or improve the appearance of the surface and / or hydration of the skin, and / or protect the skin, especially dry and rough skin, and / or as an essential nutrition agent for keratin materials (skin, hair, eyelash, nail) and / or to improve and / or maintain the lipid content of the human epidermis, in vivo and in vitro , and / or for the treatment of dermatological conditions that result in an imbalance of the barrier function or epidermal homeostasis.

The present invention also contemplates the use of at least one compound of formula (I) or of a composition that contains it for the treatment of conditions dermatological results in an imbalance of the function of barrier or epidermal homeostasis.

Finally, another object of the invention is constituted by a cosmetic treatment procedure of the skin, hair, eyelashes or nails, consisting of apply a sufficient amount of a composition containing at least one ceramide according to the invention.

The invention is illustrated in more detail. by the following examples.

Example 1 Lipid Collection

Pickups take place over a group of 22 women (healthy volunteers) with an average age of 33.8 years +/- 8.8 and that present a skin classified as normal by clinicians. Be perform the pickups on the forearm with the help of a turbine after cleaning the skin by means of a cotton embedded in ether with the In order to eliminate traces of sebum. The camera is applied extraction of the turbine, filled with 10 ml of mixture of hexane / ethanol (2/3) on a surface area of 12.56 cm 2. It shakes the mixture for 1 minute and then collected with a syringe glass and then stored in a glass container at -20 ° C.

Three collections are made on each person's forearm. The samples are then collected, evaporated to dryness with a rotary evaporator, collected in 1 ml of chloroform / methanol (2/1) and stored at -20 ° C. The dry extract corresponding to all these collections is 36.4 mg and represents a surface extracted from
829 cm2.

Separation and isolation of ceramides

At first, ceramides are separated from the other categories of lipids depositing the lipid sample previously obtained on a normal phase silica cartridge (gel silica 60). After removing neutral lipids with 10 ml of chloroform containing 1% acetic acid, elutes are eluted ceramides with 10 ml of chloroform / methanol mixture (95/5). Be then store the ceramides in 1 ml of chloroform at -20 ° C.

In a second time, the different ones are separated ceramides by thin layer chromatography under the conditions following:

1.7 mg of the ceramide mixture is deposited obtained as a result of the first stage on a plate Whatman LK5 silica of 20x20 cm and proceeds to 2 successive elutions with a mixture of chloroform / methanol / acetic acid in proportions 190/5/1 for the first elution and 190/9/1 for the second elution

Ceramide classes are determined in ultraviolet (at 254 nm) after vaporization on the plate of a Primulin solution at 5 mg / 100 ml. This observation allows delimit 10 contiguous zones on the numbered silica plate of the 1 to 10 going from the most eluted zone to the least eluted zone. It scratches The silica of each of these areas is recovered and extracted in several collected with a mixture of chloroform / methanol (2/1). Be join the organic phases and wash with water and evaporate then to dryness to obtain the pure ceramide compounds. A part of these ceramides is then dissolved again in a chloroform / methanol mixture (2/1) for identification analytics.

They are recovered in stain No. 1 of the plate silica ceramides of the invention such that n 1 is comprised between 17 and 35, n_ {2} is between 9 and 18 and n_ {3} is between 12 and 18.

Structural analysis of ceramide compounds

The sample for analysis is distributed in Two fractions

A derivation of the first fraction is made of ceramides by means of benzoyl chloride. The ones are separated benzoylated derivatives thus obtained by liquid chromatography of high performance and injected into a mass spectrograph at column output by HPLC-MS coupling.

The second fraction undergoes hydrolysis alkaline to release the sphingoid bases contained in the ceramides The bases released are derived with ortho-phthalaldehyde before separating them by HPLC with fluorescence detection.

The set of analytical results as well obtained allows to attribute a precise molecular structure to each Ceramide present in the sample.

In the mixture, a fraction A is isolated that it contains ceramides such that n_ {1} is between 25 and 27, n_ {2} is equal to 11 and n_ {3} is equal to 14.

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

Example 2

An emulsion of oil-in-water meant to be a skin care cream, containing (% by weight):

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

100

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

Example 3

A red lipstick is prepared containing (% in weight):

         \ vskip1.000000 \ baselineskip
      

101

         \ newpage
      

Example 4

Prepare a hair care consisting of:

102

Claims (14)

1. Compound of the following formula (I): 3 where: n_ {1} is between 17 and 35, n_ {2} is between 9 and 18 and n_ {3} is between 12 and 18. 2. Compound according to claim 1, characterized in that it is comprised n1 between 21 and 30, preferably between 23 and 28, and preferably still equals 25, 26 or 27. 3. Compound according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is comprised n2 between 11 and 15, preferably between 11 and 13, and preferably still equal to 11. 4. Compound according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is comprised n3 between 14 and 16, and is preferably equal to 14. 5. Composition it contains, in a medium physiologically acceptable, at least one compound according to one of the claims 1 to 4. 6. Composition according to claim 5, which is presents in the form of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, which includes a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium. 7. Composition according to one of the claims 5 to 6, where the compound of formula (1) is present in a amount of 0.005 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, especially 0.05 to 5%, even 0.1 to 1% in weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to one of the claims 5 to 7, which includes at least one constituent selected from the Water; the C 1 -C 6 monoalcohols; the polyols; oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic, volatile or not; waxes of animal, vegetable origin, mineral or synthetic; pasty fatty bodies; the gums; the surfactants; coemulsors; the pigments; the mother of pearl; the charges; the dyes; hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents; hydrophilic or lipophilic additives; active ingredients especially hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetics or pharmaceuticals; the solvents; the perfumes; the thrusters; the absorbents of odor; moisturizers or humectants; the softeners; the products for the treatment of skin conditions; The filters solar; germicides; the preservatives; the antioxidants; the artificial tanning agents; sunscreens especially water soluble or fat soluble; antiperspirants; the deodorants; the astringent; the refreshing products, tonic, healing, keratolytic and depilatory; the waters scented; plant tissue extracts; the agents anti-film; antiseborrhoeic agents; the oxidizers, such as bleaching agents; the reducers; the substances intended to improve the condition of dry skin or senile; the tocopherols; vitamins E, F or A and their esters; he Retinoic acid; essential fatty acids; the acid glycyrrhizin; keratolytics and carotenoids; beginning assets that can help prevent or improve matters keratin, such as sphrogenin, sphinganine or 4-OH-sphinganine; the ceramides; the glycoceramides; C 14-30 fatty acids; the triglycerides; and sterols such as cholesterol. 9. Composition according to one of the claims 5 to 8, which is presented in form - of a care, treatment or treatment product protection of keratinous materials, and especially of the skin of the face or body, including the scalp, such as a care composition (day, night, moisturizing) of the face or body; an anti-wrinkle composition or anti-aging for the face; a composition matifying for the face; a composition for irritated skin; a makeup remover composition; a milk for the body, especially moisturizing, eventually after sun; - of a sunscreen composition, of artificial tanning (self tanning) or after-care care Sun; - of a hair composition, and especially a cream or sunscreen gel; a care composition of scalp, especially anti-fall or hair regrowth; an antiparasitic shampoo; - of a material makeup product keratin such as a colored background, a colored cream, a blusher or eye shadow, a free or compact powder, a bar anti-dark circles, a camouflage bar, a red lips, lip care; a nail varnish, a care of the nails, a mask, a treatment mask or a profiler of eyes 10. Composition according to one of the claims 5 to 9, which is presented in the form of a composition for the care of keratin materials, especially the skin, nails, eyelashes, hair and in particular dry and / or rough and / or damaged skin. 11. Cosmetic use of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in one of the claims 1 to 4 - to reinforce the barrier function of the skin, especially dry and / or rough and / or damaged skin, I - to reinforce nails and / or hair, and / or - to restore and / or maintain integrity of the stratum corneum, and / or - to improve the surface appearance and / or the skin hydration, - to protect the skin, especially the dry and rough skin, and / or - as an essential nutrition agent for keratin materials (skin, hair, eyelash, nail), and / or - to improve and / or maintain the lipid content of the human epidermis, in vivo and in vitro . 12. Use of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in one of the claims 1 to 4 in a cosmetic composition intended for - strengthen the skin's barrier function, especially dry and / or rough and / or damaged skin, and / or - reinforce nails and / or hair, and / or - restore and / or maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum, and / or - improve the surface appearance and / or the skin hydration, - protect the skin, especially the skins dry and rough, and / or - improve and / or maintain the lipid content of the human epidermis, in vivo and in vitro . 13. Use of at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in one of the claims 1 to 4 for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition intended to - strengthen the skin's barrier function, especially dry and / or rough and / or damaged skin, and / or - reinforce nails and / or hair, and / or - restore and / or maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum, and / or - improve the surface appearance and / or the skin hydration, - protect the skin, especially the skins dry and rough, and / or - improve and / or maintain the lipid content of the human epidermis, in vivo and in vitro , and / or - treat dermatological conditions that are translate into an imbalance of the barrier function or of the epidermal homeostasis. 14. Procedure for cosmetic treatment of the skin, hair, eyelashes or nails, characterized in that it is applied to the skin, hair, nails or eyelashes a sufficient amount of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the claims 6 to 10.