ES2310028T3 - DISPERSION OF AMPHIPATIC LIPID. - Google Patents

Abstract

A dispersion comprising, in an aqueous medium, the following components (a) and (b): (a) from 5 to 40% by weight of, as a dispersoid, a solid particulate amphipathic lipid having, in its molecule, at least a hydroxy and amide group; and having an average particle size of 0.5 to 150 mum, and (b) 2 to 55% by weight of at least one surfactant.

Description

Amphipathic lipid dispersion.

Background of the invention 1. Field of the invention

The present invention relates to a dispersion containing an amphipathic lipid as a dispersoid, a cosmetic composition that is removed by washing comprising the amphipathic lipid has an appearance similar to an emulsion or of lustrous pearl and presents a low skin irritation, and other cosmetic composition that is removed by washing comprising an amphipathic lipid that has an average particle size defined, looks similar to an emulsion or pearl Lustrous and has low skin irritation.

2. Description of the related technique

With a view to giving good looks to a cosmetic composition that is removed by washing such as a body shampoo, hair shampoo, rinse or similar which is removed after application to the skin or hair, a dispersion of an agent is conventionally used emulsifier or a pearling agent to confer on that composition an appearance similar to an emulsion or pearl lustrous

That cosmetic composition that is removed By washing it contains a surfactant, which sometimes causes dry skin or inflammation. Therefore they are developing surfactants not so irritating to the skin, but the development of a new little irritant surfactant requires tremendous amount of time and costs.

Several attempts have been made to incorporate an amphipathic lipid such as a ceramide into a cosmetic composition that is removed by washing, in order to protect the skin or hair. Specifically described, a cosmetic hair composition comprising an amide derivative has been reported, which is a substance similar to ceramide (Japanese patent application open for public consultation No. 9913/1989); a cosmetic hair composition comprising a glycoceramide and a cationic surfactant (Japanese patent application 502660/1994 and WO-A-9302656); a composition for cleaning or treating hair or skin comprising an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a cationic polymer and a ceramide or glycoceramide (Japanese patent application open for public consultation No. 59443/1996); and a transparent or semi-transparent cosmetic composition comprising an amphipathic lipid, a non-ionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant (EP-A-487958). However, in the cosmetic compositions described above, only a small amount (approximately 2% by weight maximum) of ceramide can be stably incorporated because it is solid at room temperature. On the other hand, if ceramide is incorporated into the cosmetic composition after it has been dissolved in another medium and then emulsified, it has no effect.
enough.

Therefore, it is an object of the present invention provide a cosmetic composition that is removed by washing that may have sufficient properties of a lipid amphipathic that is in solid form at room temperature and a dispersion used for it.

Summary of the Invention

In one aspect of the present invention, provides a dispersion comprising, in an aqueous medium, the following components (a) and (b):

(a) 5 to 40% by weight of, as dispersoid, a solid particulate amphipathic lipid that has, in its molecule, at least one hydroxy and amide group; and that has a size of mean particle of 0.5 to 150 µm, and

(b) from 2 to 55% by weight of a surfactant; Y a cosmetic composition that is removed by washing that Understand the dispersion.

In another aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic composition that is removed is also provided by washing comprising the following components (A) and (B):

(A) 0.01 to 10% by weight of a lipid amphipathic with an average particle size of 0.5 to 150 µm and which has, in the amphipathic lipid molecule, at least one group hydroxy and amide; Y

(B) 5 to 95% by weight of a surfactant.

The dispersion according to the present invention has, as a dispersed system, a solid particulate amphipathic lipid dispersed in an aqueous medium. It is useful as a component for a cosmetic composition that is removed by washing that has both a good appearance similar to an emulsion or pearl Lustrous as a low skin irritation. Cosmetic composition which is removed by washing according to the present invention has, as described above, a good appearance similar to an emulsion or lustrous pearl and also has a low skin irritation because the amount of the surfactant, which is contained in the composition, adsorbed to the skin is little.

Detailed description of the embodiments preferred

The term "an amphipathic lipid that has, in its molecule, at least one hydroxy and amide group "means a natural ceramide or a synthetic ceramide, or a substance analogous to the above (pseudo-ceramide) available by synthesis or similar of natural or synthetic ceramide, which is in solid form at room temperature (25 ° C). The lipid examples amphipathic include "Ceramide H03" (trade name, product de Sederma S.A.), Ceramide II (trade name, product of Sederma S. A.), "Questamide H" (trade name, product of Quest International), "Ceramide TIC-001" (trade name, product of Takasago International Corp.), and "Sofcare Ceramide SL-E" (trade name, product of Kao Corp.). It is preferred that the amphipathic lipid has a melting point not less than 30 ° C, more preferably not below 40 ° C, considering the stability of the dispersion or similar formed with its use. Examples particularly Preferred Ceramide-like substance available by synthesis include the ceramide derivatives represented by the formula (1) described below which includes the Sofcare Ceramide SL-E exemplified previously.

one

where R 1 and R 2 are same or different and each independently represents a C 7-39 saturated hydrocarbon group or unsaturated, linear or branched, which may be substituted with at minus one hydroxyl group, and R 3 and R 4 are the same or different and each independently represents an atom of hydrogen, a phosphate salt moiety, a sulfate salt moiety or a saccharide residue, with the condition that it is at least contained a hydroxyl group in the molecule.

In formula (1), preferred groups such as R 1 are C 9-25 hydrocarbon groups saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferred groups as R 2 are C 10-26 hydrocarbon groups saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and preferred groups as R 3 or R 4 is a hydrogen atom.

The procedure for preparing the derivative of the amide (1) described above is specifically described in Japanese patent application open for public consultation No. 228048/1987, Japanese patent application open for consultation by the public No. 216852/1988 and the like.

As an amphipathic lipid that serves as a component (a), those exemplified above may be used alone or in combination. In the dispersion of the present invention, incorporates in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, preferably of 10 to 30% by weight.

As a surfactant that serves as component (b) of the dispersion of the present invention at least one surfactant selected from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and the like, normally used for cosmetics. Among them, the examples of nonionic surfactants include alkyl polyglycosides, polyoxyalkylene alkyl or alkenyl ethers, fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylene sorbitan, esters of sorbitan fatty acids, polyoxyalkylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, esters of polyoxyalkylene glycerin fatty acids, fatty acid esters of polyglycerin, fatty acid monoglycerides, esters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids and fatty acid alkanolamides. Examples of anionic surfactants include polyoxyalkylene acids acetic alkyl ether or its salts, salts of N-acylamino acids, sulfate salts polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, polyoxyalkylene phosphate salts alkyl ether, alkyl phosphate salts, salts of N-acylmethyl taurine, alkylsulfosuccinate salts, polyoxyalkylene alkylsulfosuccinate salts and acid salts fatty Examples of amphoteric surfactants influence alkylaminoacetate betaines, alkylamine oxides, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylhydroxysulfobetains and amidoamino acids (imidazoline type betaines).

Among them, non-surfactants are preferred ionic and polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acids or their salts. As a nonionic surfactant, one selected from among alkyl polyglycosides, polyoxyalkylene alkyl or alkenyl ethers, polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid esters and esters of sorbitan fatty acids.

Particularly preferred examples of nonionic surfactant include alkyl polyglycosides, for example, those in which the alkyl group has 8 to 14 atoms of carbon and the degree of condensation of glucose is 1 to 2; polyoxyalkylene alkyl or alkenyl ethers, for example, those in which the alkyl or alkenyl group has from 8 to 18 atoms of carbon and the number of moles of ethylene oxide added is 4 to 25, preferably 4 to 15 on average; fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylene sorbitan in which the fatty acid has 8 to 20 carbon atoms and the number of moles of ethylene oxide added it is 5 to 25 on average; and sorbitan fatty acid esters, by example, monoesters of a C 8-20 fatty acid. Examples of polyoxyethylene alkyl acetic acid and its salts include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetic acids having from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and in which the number of moles of the oxide of Added ethylene is 3 to 15 on average and its metal salts alkaline In other words, polyoxyethylene acids can be used alkyl ether acetics as they are without neutralization or after be neutralized as necessary. The subsequent addition of a cationic surfactant can increase the adsorption of a lipid amphipathic to skin or hair.

As component (b) you can use the surfactants previously exemplified alone or in combination. It is added in an amount of 2 to 55% by weight, preferably 5 at 40% by weight to the dispersion of the present invention.

Here, the amphipathic lipid (a) and the surfactant (b) are added to a weight ratio of (a) / (b) from 90/10 to 25/75, preferably from 80/20 to 30/70, particularly so preferred from 70/30 to 40/60.

The dispersion according to the present invention is can prepare, for example, by heating a lipid mixture amphipathic (a), the surfactant (b) and water to the melting point of the amphipathic or higher lipid (from the melting point to the point of melting + 10 ° C approximately), therefore melting it while shake and then the resulting mixture becomes uniform, cooling it while stirring to crystallize the component (to).

The particle size of component (a) is can control by adjusting the type or amount of the surfactant, cooling rate, stirring speed or the like. It is preferred that component (a) have a particle size medium, measured by the procedure described below, of 0.5 to 150 µm, more preferably 1 to 150 µm, particularly preferably from 1 to 80 µm. To dispersion of the present invention, it is possible to add ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, other pearling agent, emulsifying agent, pH regulator, antiseptic or similar before or after heating, melting or cooling described above.

The dispersion of the present invention obtained in this way it looks similar to an emulsion or glossy pearl so that its incorporation into the composition cosmetic that is removed by washing makes it possible to confer on the cosmetic composition an appearance similar to an emulsion or of lustrous pearl, and also reduce the amount of surfactant, which It is contained in the cosmetic composition that is removed by washing, adsorbed to the skin, thus reducing skin irritation caused by the surfactant.

Examples of cosmetic compositions that are removed by washing of the present invention include cosmetic hair compositions such as shampoos and rinses, facial compositions such as facial washes and facial masks and those for systemic application such as massage oils, creams and the like and body shampoos. The dispersion according to the present invention is particularly useful as a component of a cleaning agent that contains a surfactant as a base, such as a systemic cleaning agent, an agent hand and finger cleanser and a facial wash.

The amount of dispersion of the invention a add to a cosmetic composition that is removed by washing can be adjusted as necessary, depending on the type of cosmetic composition or dispersion concentration. Typically, amphipathic lipid concentrations are preferred which they range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, particularly 0.1 to 5% in weight.

After the preparation of a cosmetic composition which is removed by washing using the dispersion of the present invention, it is preferred to premix the components of the composition cosmetics other than the dispersion and then mix the resulting mixture with the dispersion at no more than 50 ° C. That procedure makes it possible to incorporate the amphipathic lipid of stable way, which has been contained in the dispersion, in the cosmetic composition

As surfactant to be used in the composition cosmetic that is removed by washing prepared using the dispersion, those can be mentioned as examples exemplified subsequently as component (B). The amount of Surfactant is, based on the amount of cosmetic composition which is removed by washing, from 5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50 35% by weight in terms of total amount of surfactants used for the preparation of the dispersion and the cosmetic composition that It is removed by washing.

As an amphipathic lipid (A) to be used in the cosmetic composition that is removed by washing this invention, amide derivatives are particularly preferred (1) similar to the case of component (a) in the dispersion described previously. They can be used alone or in combination, but their (their) Average particle size (s) preferably is 0.5 to 150 um, more preferably 1 to 150, even more preferably 1 to 80 µm, particularly so preferably from 1 to 50 µm from the point of view of the effects for reducing irritation and stability in the composition Cosmetic that is removed by washing. The term "size of middle particle "as used herein means an average length calculated arithmetically, in a straight line, of the longest portions of 30 selected particles optionally of a micrograph of the cosmetic composition that is removed by washing obtained by means of the optical microscope with transmitted light The amphipathic lipid (A) is added in an amount 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight at cosmetic composition that is removed by washing this invention.

As surfactant (B), there may be mentioned those exemplified above as component (b) of the dispersion and those normally added to the composition cosmetic that is removed by washing in order to clean or soften hair Preferred examples include alkyl polyglycosides, fatty acid alkanolamides, surfactants amidoamino acids (imidazolin betaines), alkylaminoacetate betaines, alkylamine oxides, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkyl hydroxysulfobetaines and anionic surfactants, being more preferred alkyl polyglycosides, surfactants amidoamino acids (imidazolinbetaines) and surfactants anionic Among the anionic surfactants, the polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether sulfates, for example, those that they contain an alkyl group with 12 to 18 carbon atoms and that they have 2 to 4 moles of ethylene oxide media added; you go out of fatty acids, for example, those that contain an acid fatty with 12 to 18 carbon atoms; alkyl phosphates, for example, those that contain an alkyl group with 12 to 18 atoms of carbon; polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates, for example, those containing an alkyl group with 12 to 18 carbon atoms and that they have 1 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide added; polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether acetates, for example, those that they contain an alkyl group with 12 to 18 carbon atoms and that they have 3 to 12 moles of ethylene oxide media added; you go out of acylated amino acids, for example, those that contain a acyl group with 12 to 18 carbon atoms and which are a derivative of alanine, sarcosine, glycine or glutamic acid; you leave alkylsulfate, alkylsulphosuccinate salts and salts of polyoxyethylene alkylsulfosuccinate each containing a group alkyl with 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and isethionate salts acylated and salts of N-acylmethyltaurine each that It contains an acyl group with 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The examples Preferred salts include water soluble salts such as salts of alkali metals and alkanolamine salts. The surfactant that serves as component (B) is added in an amount of 5 to 95% in weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, based on the cosmetic composition that is removed by washing of the present invention.

To the cosmetic composition that is removed by washing the present invention, it is possible to add optionally an oil such as a higher alcohol, lanolin, squalene, hydrocarbon or silicone; a cationized polymer such as cationized cellulose, cationized guar gum or "Mercoat 550 "(product of Merck & Co., Inc); a macromolecule Water soluble such as methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polymer or polysaccharide (xanthan gum, etc.) of carboxyvinyl; a viscosity regulator or a solubilization adjuvant such as polyoxyalkylene sorbitan ester, fatty acid ester of polyoxyethylene, ethanol, glycerin or sorbitol; a chelating agent such as ethylenediamine tetraacetate (EDTA) or phosphate salt; a antiseptic such as methylparaben or butylparaben; a nutrient such as a vitamin or one of its precursors; an animal extract or vegetable such as lecithin or gelatin, or one of its derivatives; a fine particulate polymer such as nylon or polyethylene; an agent anti-inflammatory such as glycyrrhizinate dipotassium or allantoin; a bactericide or agent anti-dandruff such as benzalkonium chloride, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate ("SANISOL P", trade name; product of Kao Corporation), triclosan, trichlorocarban, octopirox or zinc pyrithione; an antioxidant such as dibutylhydroxytoluene; an ultraviolet light absorber; a pH regulator; a Colorant; a perfume; and / or similar.

After the preparation of the cosmetic composition which is removed by washing of the present invention can be use an amphipathic lipid as is or as a dispersion, and preferably it is used as a dispersion. When the lipid amphipathic is used as is, it is preferred to dissolve the lipid amphipathic together with the other components of the composition cosmetic by heating or dispersing them evenly, and to the entire mixed system is then cooled to crystallize the amphipathic lipid

The cosmetic composition that is removed by washing of the present invention can be converted into any Dosage form such as solid, paste or liquid.

Examples Example 1

After 15 parts by weight of a lipid amphipathic [represented by formula (1) in which R1 = C 15 H 31, R 2 = C 16 H 33, R 3 = H and R 4 = H and with a melting point of 74 to 76 ° C], 25 parts in weight of "MYDOL 10" [trade name, Kao product Corporation; effective principle: 40% by weight; decyl polyglycoside (degree of condensation: 1 to 1.35)] and 60 parts by weight of water are heated from 80 to 85 ° C, cooled with stirring, so that the amphipathic lipid crystallized. The cooling continued to room temperature with stirring, so the amphipathic lipid dispersion.

The resulting dispersion had an appearance of lustrous pearl and amphipathic lipid particles in the dispersion were needle crystals with an average particle size of 15.1 µm.

Examples 2 a 7

In each of Examples 2 to 7, the dispersion of an amphipathic lipid as shown in Table 1 With a lustrous pearl appearance as an objective product.

TABLE 1

2

3

Example 9 Systemic cleaning agent 1

An agent was prepared conventionally lustrous pearl systemic cleaner 1 with the composition described then. However the amphipathic lipid was added subsequently at 40 ° C in the form of a dispersion of lustrous pearl (Example 1) that had crystallized beforehand.

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Example 10 Systemic cleaning agent 2

A systemic cleaning agent 2 of lustrous pearl with the composition described below a conventional way. However the amphipathic lipid was added subsequently at 40 ° C in the form of a dispersion of lustrous pearl (Example 2) that had crystallized beforehand.

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Proof one

Amount of adsorbed surfactant

Male and female subjects were asked, three of each, using the systemic cleaning agent 1 of Example 9 for a week and the corneal layer of its brachial part was collected by the procedure of strips of adhesive tape. Tape Adhesive used for collection was cut into pieces, followed by methanol extraction. The amount of acid was determined lauryl phosphoric, which was a major surfactant of the system systemic cleanser, adsorbed on the skin by subjecting the extract to liquid chromatography

To compare, a similar test was performed with a comparative systemic cleaning agent that had a composition similar to systemic cleaning agent 1 of Example 9, except in that the amphipathic lipid was omitted and the remainder was completed with Water.

Results are shown in table 2.

TABLE 2

6

From the previous results, it has been found that compared to the comparative product, the product of the invention can significantly reduce the amount of adsorption of the surfactant in the skin.

Proof 2

Test on the effects to relieve itching or dryness cutaneous

Trial subjects were chosen as male subjects and women with problems with itching or dry skin during winter when the air is dry. With five men and five women as a group, itching and skin dryness were classified after the application of the systemic cleaning agent of Example 9 or 10 for 1 month, according to the levels described below. The classification was carried out through a system of self-declaration

To compare, a similar test was performed with the comparative systemic cleaning agents 1 and 2 that had compositions similar to those of systemic cleaning agents of Examples 9 and 10, respectively, except that it was omitted the amphipathic lipid and the remnant was completed with water.

Rating Levels

The symptoms disappeared completely (improvement): 0

The symptoms almost disappeared (almost improved): one

The symptoms disappeared a bit (slight improvement): 2

Symptoms showed no change: 3

The symptoms became more severe (aggravated): 4

Results

The results are shown in Table 3 as the midpoint of 10 subjects.

TABLE 3

7

As is evident from the results described previously, itching and dry skin are relieved significantly by cleaning agents according to the present invention compared to comparative agents.

Proof 3

Foam test

As samples, 5% solutions were used in weight, each 100 ml, of systemic cleaning agent 1 and of comparative cleaning agent 1, respectively. After each one of the samples will be diluted with hard water with a hardness of 4 degrees and that 0.5% by weight of lanolin was added to the diluted solution, the amount of foam (ml) was measured at 40 ° C by the reverse agitation procedure (Oil Chemistry, 22 (4), 211 (1973)). The measurements were made 10 seconds after stirring for 30 seconds and 30 seconds after stirring for 5 minutes. The results are shown in Table 4

TABLE 4

8

As is evident from the previous results, the addition of the amphipathic lipid dispersion according to the present The invention did not impair the foamability of the cleaning agent.

Example 11 Facial wash 1

A wash was prepared conventionally lustrous pearl facial 1 having the composition described to continuation. However, after preparation, subsequently added the amphipathic lipid at 40 ° C in the form of pearl dispersion glossy crystallized beforehand (Example 3).

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Example 12 Hand and finger cleaning agent 1

An agent was prepared conventionally lustrous pearl 1 hand and finger cleaner that had the composition described below. However, after the preparation, subsequently the amphipathic lipid was added at 40 ° C in the form of a dispersion of lustrous pearl (Example 1) crystallized from beforehand.

10

Example 13 Systemic cleaning agent 3

An agent was prepared conventionally systemic cleaner 3 of lustrous pearl that has the composition described below. However, after preparation, subsequently the amphipathic lipid was added at 40 ° C in the form of dispersion of lustrous pearl (Example 4) crystallized from beforehand.

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Example 14 Systemic cleaning agent 4 (deodorant type)

An agent was prepared conventionally systemic cleaner 4 of lustrous pearl deodorant type that has the composition described below. However, after the preparation, subsequently the amphipathic lipid was added at 40 ° C in the form of dispersion of glossy pearl crystallized in advance (Example 1).

12

Example 15 Systemic cleaning agent 5

13

An agent was prepared conventionally 5 glossy pearl systemic cleaner that has the composition described below. However, after preparation, subsequently the amphipathic lipid was added at 40 ° C in the form of dispersion of glossy pearl crystallized beforehand (Example 8).

Example 16 Systemic cleaning agent 6

An agent was prepared conventionally 6 systemic lustrous pearl cleaner that has the composition described below. However, after preparation, subsequently the amphipathic lipid was added at 35 ° C in the form of dispersion of lustrous pearl (Example 2) crystallized beforehand after confirmation of the crystallization of distearate of ethylene glycol

14

It was found that cosmetic compositions that they are removed by washing obtained in Examples 9 to 16 have a lustrous pearl appearance, they are exempt from irritation after cleanliness, have an excellent touch feeling after rinsed or dried and are soft to the skin even after a daily or frequent use.

Claims (9)

1. A dispersion comprising, in a medium aqueous, the following components (a) and (b):

(to)

of the 5 to 40% by weight of, as a dispersoid, an amphipathic lipid solid particulate that has, in its molecule, at least one group hydroxy and amide; and that has an average particle size of 0.5 to 150 µm, and

(b)

of the 2 to 55% by weight of at least one surfactant.

2. A dispersion according to claim 1, in which the surfactant (b) is at least one selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and surfactants amphoteric 3. A dispersion according to claim 2, in which said nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides, polyoxyalkylene alkyl or alkenyl ethers, fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylene sorbitan and fatty acid esters of sorbitan 4. A dispersion according to any one of the claims 1 to 3, wherein the component weight ratio  (a) / component (b) covers between 90/10 and 25/75. 5. A dispersion according to any one of the claims 1 to 4, wherein component (a) is a pseudo-ceramide. 6. A procedure for the preparation of a dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which comprises heating the component (a), the component (b) and water to a temperature not lower than the melting point of component (a), merging them therefore; and cool to crystallize the component (to). 7. A cosmetic composition that is removed by washing, which comprises a dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 8. A procedure for the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to claim 7, comprising the mixing a dispersion according to any one of the claims 1 to 5 with the components of the composition Cosmetics other than the dispersion at no more than 50 ° C. 9. A cosmetic composition that is removed by washing comprising the following components (A) and (B):

(TO)

of the 0.01 to 10% by weight of a solid particulate amphipathic lipid that it has an average particle size of 0.5 to 150 µm and that it has, in its molecule, at least one hydroxy and amide group; Y

(B)

of the 5 to 95% by weight of at least one surfactant.