ES2921365B2 - Active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing - Google Patents

Description

DESCRIPTION

Active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention refers to an active safety anchorage mechanism to arrest a fall or to be used as a progression anchorage in the sport of rock climbing, in the self-protection mode.

STATE OF THE ART

The object of the present invention is to increase safety in the practice of the sport of climbing in the self-protection modality. Therefore, it is a mechanism that acts as a safety anchor for fall arrest and as a support point for progression when artificial climbing techniques are used. This mechanism is part of the group of active floating cam anchor devices for climbing.

Within this group of mechanical devices for self-protection in climbing, there are a multitude of designs that base their application on the insertion and firm setting of a certain piece made up of one or several elements (generally metallic) in a relief or cavity that could offer the rock where it is locked or embedded, in such a way that the forces derived from a load on the device generate the necessary friction to stabilize and arrest a fall by the climber.

The following documents are known within this type of system: US3877679, dated: 04/15/1975, Title: "Anchor device for mountain climbers", Inventor: Greg E Lowe; GB2028455, dated: 03/05/1980; Title: "Multi-functional climbing chock”; Inventor: Walters J A.; FR2563740, dated: 11/08/1985; Title: "Dispositif d'escalade pour alpinistes"; Inventor: Prause Bernt; FR2567594, dated: 01/17/1986; Title: "Friend (automatic wedge)” ; Inventor: Telle Jean Marc.; US4645149, dated: 02/24/1987; Title: "Camming device for climbers”; Inventor: Greg E Lowe.; EP0226829 dated: 07/01/1987; Title: "Climbing device”; Inventor: Steinacker, Paul-Heinrich; US4712754, dated: 12/15/1987; Title "Rock climbing anchor”, Inventor: Malcolm J. Brodie; US6283426, dated: 09/04/2001; Title: "Spring-loaded camming nut” ; Inventors: Guthrie, Karl; Schwartz, Joseph; US6375139, dated: 04/23/2002; Title: “Anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities” ; Inventors: Murray, Seth; Southern, Ryan Tucker; Stamm, Shane; Wolos, Greg; EP1552862, dated: 05/13/2005; Title: “Mechanical cam chok for climbing or mountaineering” ; Inventor: Petzl Paul; US20030019321, dated: 3/21/2006; Title: “Cam climbing device” ; Inventors: Apezetxea Mikel; Zabala Inaki Xabier; ES2258940, dated: 09/01/2006; Title: "Safety anchor for climbing"; Inventors: Telleria Gabiria Aitzol; Telleria Gabiria Andoitz; US20100207002, dated: 08/21/2010; Title: “Mechanical climbing aid of the cam type”; Inventor: Field, Jr. John E; and WO2020110081, dated: 06/04/2020; Title: “Anchoring and support climbing device”; Inventor: Vianini, Matteo.

Unlike the state of the art, the object of the invention works by means of a single cam block that fits into a hole, crack or relief in the rock and expands by means of its own forced rotation with a cable sling under a load and that In addition, it acts as a stabilizer spring and active fixer of the assembly without load. It also includes a handling system for its practical and comfortable use, which facilitates its installation and removal from the various locations that can be used.

Compared to the state of the art, the present invention improves and increases the versatility of this type of device, by expanding the range of potential locations, making it possible to use other possible marginal anchor points that, currently, cannot be used. usefully or efficiently by other self-protection mechanisms.

EXPLANATION OF THE INVENTION

The object of the invention is an active anchoring mechanism to increase safety in the practice of self-protection climbing. The invention is designed to cover a wide variety of locations in the rock and, especially, hollows, holes and other marginal reliefs, especially small and very small ones that currently cannot be used by other devices and/or embedders.

The present invention is made up of a single block of mechanized metal or plastic in the form of a double-sided cam with a spiral geometric development, assembled on a highly flexible braided stainless steel cable sling, which is inserted and runs around the perimeter of the piece through its interior and by its opposite exterior contour. This cable sling acts as a fixing spring, handle and anchor point, diverting the effort of a load by rotation to the main point of contact of the cam with the rock, which is where the greatest application is applied. friction.

In addition, this device incorporates an insertion and extraction system for its placement, mounted around an ergonomic handle, and consisting of a mobile trigger pull made of semi-rigid plastic, with cable or synthetic fiber slings, which act directly on the block of the cam, making it rotate at its upper end on the cable sling itself, to reduce the range of opening to be installed or extracted from the rock and, in addition, to actively fix the entire assembly of the invention to the rock.

Finally, the present invention incorporates a movable spring that protects the cable sling in contact with the rock and covers the rear of the cable sling in the groove on the rear of the cam block.

All described technical effects and advantages of the invention are achieved with the anchoring device according to the claims accompanying the present specification. Furthermore, throughout the description and claims, the term "comprises" and its variants are not intended to exclude other technical characteristics or additional elements or technical equivalents.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

To complement the description that is going to be made below and in order to help a better understanding of the technical characteristics of the invention, according to a practical embodiment thereof, a plurality of drawings is attached as an integral part of the description. where, with an illustrative and non-limiting nature, the following has been represented:

Figure 1.- Shows an isometric view of the lower right side frontal detail of the active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing, which is the object of the present invention.

Figure 2.- shows a right side view of the active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing, which is the object of the present invention.

Figure 3.- shows a detailed view of the installation and operation in a location of the rock with an external opening and/or internal development with a circular, oval shape or irregular of the active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing, which is the object of the present invention; where is represented:

a) Rotation of the cam block (1) when the cable sling (2) is loaded b) Contact of the spring (3) and protection plate (4) with the rock

Figure 4.- shows a lower left side isometric view of the active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing, which is the object of the present invention.

Figure 5.- shows a bottom view of the active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing, which is the object of the present invention.

Figure 6.- Shows a top front perspective view of the active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing, which is the object of the present invention.

The following numerical references have been used in the figures:

1. Cam block

the . Hole machining for sling cable insertion

lb. Hole machining in the lower back of the lc cam block. Front part of cam block, spiral shaped, with machined relief ld . Machined holes for insertion of flex control cables. Machined holes for wire spring insertion

lf . Back of smooth, spiral-shaped cam block

lg . Groove machined on the back of the cam block 2. Wire rope sling, inserted into the cam block and finished at its opposite end in a ring.

3. Spring steel wire

4. Spring steel plate

5. Eyelets on spring steel wire

6. Steel ferrule for cable crimping

7. Ergonomic handle

8. Terminal ring of the cable sling with thermo-plastic cover of heat-shrinkable plastic

9. Trigger pull control flexion and recovery

10. Cam block flex control cables

11(a), 11(b). Control Cable Crimp Ferrules

PREFERRED EMBODIMENT OF THE INVENTION

As can be seen in the attached figures, the cam block 1 is machined or injected in metal or high-resistance plastic. This block is designed on two opposite logarithmic spirals (1c) and (1f), in such a way that at the back it develops the shape on a larger spiral (1f), whose contact edges with the rock are polished to facilitate sliding on this and, in its front central part (1c) is grooved longitudinally to receive and fit the rotation of the cable sling (2) in double. In the anterior part, it develops on a smaller spiral and the point of contact of this with the rock has a transversal relief (1c) to increase its coupling and fixation in the rock texture. It is in the front part where the maximum point of friction of the cam block 1 with the rock is exerted (figure 3, reference b). In the rear part of the cam block, the movement that locks the piece is developed (figure 3, reference a) and due to its geometry together with that of the front part, it maintains a constant angle of application of forces between 11° and 20°. under loads. It also includes in its front part some machined holes (1a, 1b) to insert the sling cable (2), holes (1d) and (1e), to crimp the steel wire spring (3) for bending and protection, and holes (1f and 1g) to receive and fix the ends of the control cables (10) of the pull trigger (9) to control flexion and recovery.

The stainless steel cable sling (2) is double crimped with a steel bushing (6) which is double integrated into the cam block (1), and which runs along its outer perimeter and which pulls the lower end of the cam block (1) when it receives a load and which also fulfills the following functions:

- The load sling (2) is configured to receive the force of a load and transmit it to the cam block 1, which tends to rotate on itself due to the arrangement of the cable sling on its perimeter and interior.

- The cable sling itself (2) in its passive state forms an angle (as best seen in figure 2, between 80° and 90°) with respect to the cam block (1) which, when inserted in a position appropriate, it applies the bending force on the rock on the opposite side of the front face of the cam block (1) and stabilizes the assembly so that it is fixed in working order (figure 3). Therefore, it is configured as a stabilization spring.

- Addressing and activation of the axis of rotation of the cam block (1), where the cable sling (2) acts as a rotation spring for the cam block (1) as it runs around the perimeter and pulls on the opposite side to the force vector, thus promoting and increasing the friction of the front part (1c) of the block cam (1) on the rock (figure 3, reference (a)).

- Ergonomic handle support (7) and handle trigger (9) for manipulation for placement and removal; the stem and end of the cable sling (2) act as a support-handle to facilitate handling of the system and its use in rock emplacements; the end of the cable forms a closed ring (8) by the crimped bushing (6) of the double cable itself (2). This ring (8) is the connection point with the other elements of the safety chain (connecting carabiner, strap and rope).

The present invention implements a bending and protection spring (3,4), formed by a single preformed steel wire (3) and a sheet (4) of the same material as the wire (3), assembled in a single piece, which covers and fixes the surface on that sector of the cable sling (2) and whose measurements are adapted to the exact measurements of the rear channel (1g) of the body of the cam block (1). The sheet (4) is inserted under pressure into the holes machined (1e) for this purpose in the cam block (1), remaining mobile in these holes (1e) that act as supports for the axis of rotation of the spring assembly ( 3,4). The spring (3,4) has the same longitudinal development as the rear part of the cam block (1f) and in the maximum flexion position, it covers this channel (1g) completely, protecting the cable sling (2) (figure 3, reference (b)). At the lower end of this mobile spring (3,4), two eyelets (5) are formed (one on each side), which act as a guide for driving and passing the control cables (10) of the trigger pull (9). for flex control.

The spring (3,4) is configured to:

- The protection of the cable sling (2) as it passes through the rear part of the cam block (1), from direct contact and consequent friction with the rock (figure 3).

- Provide a point of leverage to force the bending of the cable sling (2) on the body of the cam block (1), so that this cable performs the exact development of the groove (1g) on the back of the cam body (1) and is fully integrated into it, when the pull trigger (9) is pulled to reduce the flexion-extension range of the cam block (1).

The cable crimping bushing (6) is formed by a cylindrical and hollow piece of steel that presses and binds the ends of the cable sling (2), closing it at one point to create a hooking ring (8) and connection with the rest of the elements of the safety chain, and to create and fix the end that pull the cam block (1).

The ergonomic handle (7) is made up of a single body of flexible, solid plastic material that surrounds the cable sling (2), mounted or injected on said cable sling (2) to integrate the entire handle assembly (7). and cable (2) in a single piece to facilitate and improve the manipulation of the mechanism, and the integration and sliding of the trigger pull (9) for flexion control.

The invention comprises a thermoplastic cover made with a tubular piece of heat-shrinkable plastic for the protection of the cable of the terminal ring (8) of the sling (2), to receive the corresponding connector or element of the safety chain.

The pull trigger (9) for flexion and recovery control is made up of two pieces of semi-rigid plastic, which are permanently and fixedly assembled on the handle (7) and fit on it with a minimum tolerance gap to facilitate its removal. sliding on it. The pull trigger (9) includes holes and a lower relief to house and guide the control cables (10) for flexion and recovery of the cam block (1).

The control cables (10) for bending the cam block (1) are made up of a wire, which can be braided or not, made of steel or synthetic fiber, of the SPECTRA® or KEVLAR® type. Its function is to transmit the sliding movement of the pull trigger (9) to the cam block (1) to have control over its opening or bending range. The control cables (10) are inserted in the machined holes (1d) of the cam block (1) and in the pull trigger (9).

Finally, the crimping bushings (11a and 11b) of the control cables (10) are spherical metal bushings. These pieces block the ends of the control cables (10) as they pass through the machined holes (1d) of the cam body (1) in the recess on the outside of the machining (1d) and act by fixing the control cables ( 10) so that they are not released when they are pulled on the cam body (1).

Claims (8)

1. - An active safety anchorage device for self-protection in climbing that includes: a cam block (1); a steel cable sling (2) inserted by a first end in the cam block (1) and finished at its opposite end in a ring (8); a spring (3,4) for bending and protection; a pull trigger (9) to control flexion and recovery; bending control cables (10); which is characterized by: the cam block (1) comprises, in turn, some machined holes (1a) configured for the insertion of the sling cable (2); some machined holes (1b) in the lower rear part of the cam block (1); a front part (1c) of the cam block (1) in a spiral shape, with machined relief; machined holes (1d) configured for the insertion of bending control cables (10); some machined holes (1e) configured for the insertion of a bending and protection spring (3,4); a rear part (1f) of the cam block (1) that is smooth and spiral-shaped; and a groove (1g) machined in the rear part of the cam block (1); The bending and protection spring (3,4) is made up of a single preformed steel wire (3) and a sheet (4) of the same material as the wire (3), assembled in a single piece, which covers and fixes the surface on that sector of the cable sling (2) and whose measurements are adapted to the exact measurements of the groove (1g) of the rear part of the cam block (1); and where the spring (3,4) has the same longitudinal development as the rear part (1f) of the cam block (1) and in the maximum flexion position, it completely covers the rear groove (1g), protecting the cable sling ( 2); the pull trigger (9) for flexion and recovery control that includes holes and a lower relief to house and guide the flexion and recovery control cables (10) of the cam block (1) which, in turn, remain inserted in some machined holes (1d) of the cam block (1) and in the pull trigger (9); and where at the lower end of the mobile spring (3,4), two eyelets (5) are formed, one on each side, which act as a guide for conduction and passage of the control cables (10) of the trigger pull (9) for flex control. 2. - The device according to claim 1 where the sheet (4) is inserted under pressure into machined holes (1e) of the cam block (1), remaining mobile in these holes (1e) that are configured as supports for the axis of rotation of the spring assembly (3, 4). 3. - The device according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein the stainless steel cable sling (2) is crimped in double with a steel bushing (6) that is integrated in double in the cam block (1), and that runs along its outer perimeter and that pulls the lower end of the cam block (1) when it receives a load. 4. - The device according to claim 3 where the cable crimp bushing (6) is formed by a cylindrical and hollow piece of steel that presses and ties the ends of the cable sling (2), closing it at one point to create a hooking ring (8) and connection with the rest of the elements of the safety chain, and to create and fix the end that pulls the cam block (1). 5. - The device according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an ergonomic handle (7) formed by a single body of flexible, solid and enveloping plastic material of the cable sling (2), mounted or injected on said cable sling (2) to integrate the entire assembly of the handle (7) and cable (2) in a single piece to facilitate and improve the manipulation of the mechanism, and the integration and sliding of the trigger pull (9) for flexion control . 6. - The device according to claim 5 where the trigger pull (9) for flexion and recovery control is made up of two pieces of semi-rigid plastic, which are permanently and fixedly assembled on the ergonomic handle (7). 7. - The device according to any one of the preceding claims, where the control cables (10) for bending the cam block (1) are configured to transmit the sliding movement of the pull trigger (9) to the cam block (1 ) to have control over its opening or bending range. 8. - The device according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising crimping bushings (11a and 11b) of the control cables (10) that are spherical metal bushings, in such a way that these pieces block the ends of the control cables (10) as they pass through the machined holes (1d) of the cam block (1) in the recess on the outside of the machining (1d) and act by fixing the control cables (10) so that they do not are released when they are pulled on the cam body (1).