FR2811559A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MODIFIED BEES WAX AND A VOLATILE SILICONE, USE IN COSMETICS - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular cosmetic, characterized in that it comprises I at least one modified beeswax II at least one volatile silicone. The invention also relates to cosmetic applications of such a composition.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MODIFIED BEES WAX AND A

  VOLATILE SILICONE, USE IN COSMETICS

  The subject of the present invention is cosmetic compositions, possibly solid, comprising a modified beeswax and a volatile silicone, which can in particular be used in cosmetics, in particular in the form of a stick.

face powder.

  These compositions can also constitute skin care products, including the scalp, and / or make-up products for the skin, mucous membranes (lips or inner eyelids), semimucous membranes (lips), keratin fibers ( hair, eyelashes, nails) or even

body makeup.

  Makeup compositions containing an oily phase are commonly used in cosmetics because of their good adhesion to the epidermis, their feeling of comfort, their protective capacity and their capacity to form a film.

Water-proof.

  The compositions having a creamy consistency can be sought in so far as they can be applied satisfactorily using the fingers from a container in the form of a jar or tube. They usually contain oils and waxes in order to obtain a consistency

stable over time.

  However, one of the drawbacks of this type of product is that, because they contain a large amount of fatty substances, they leave on the skin a

  feeling greasy, sticky and spreading is difficult.

  Furthermore, it is advantageous to have a compact product which is easy to

  carry, which does not drip and extremely practical to use.

  The object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular in the form of a stick, which has improved cosmetic properties and good stability. In particular, a composition is sought which does not give a feeling of greasiness and stickiness on application, which gives a feeling of

  freshness which is nevertheless soft and comfortable on the skin.

  It has now been unexpectedly and surprisingly discovered that by the use of a modified beeswax associated with at least one volatile silicone, it was possible to obtain compositions, in particular solid, which spread easily over the skin without feeling greasy and sticky, which have excellent cosmetic properties, in particular very softness as well as

good stability.

  The present invention therefore relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises i) at least one modified beeswax and ii)

at least one volatile silicone.

  The invention also relates to a method for non-therapeutic treatment of the skin and / or scalp, in particular a makeup method, comprising applying to the skin or mucous membranes and / or to the scalp a composition

as defined above.

  It has been found that the composition used according to the invention is particularly soft: it is also more melting and more creamy. It is easy to apply and spread evenly, without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling. It also has a light texture and remains comfortable to wear

All day long.

  The composition according to the invention also has good sensory and cosmetic qualities, in particular good mattness and good

  coverage, consistency and hold.

  The composition according to the invention allows a uniform and homogeneous makeup.

  It provides a feeling of freshness on application and does not mark pores

of the face.

  In addition, applied to the skin, it has the advantage of not migrating into the

  skin folds and / or facial wrinkles.

  The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one modified beeswax. By modified beeswax is meant in the sense of the present invention a beeswax having undergone a chemical reaction, such as for example an esterification or an etherification. Among the modified beeswax usable according to the present invention, mention may be made of the modified beeswax dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Siliconyl beeswax" by the company Koster Keunen, the modified beeswax polyethylene glycol-8 sold under the trade name "Apifil" by the company Gattefossé France, the modified beeswax polyglycerol-3 sold under the trade name

  "Cera Bellina" by the company Koster Keunen, and their mixtures.

  In a preferred embodiment of the invention, beeswax is used

modified dimethicone copolyol.

  The modified beeswax can be present in the compositions of the invention at a content ranging from approximately 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1.5 to 10% approximately.

  weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention also comprises a volatile silicone. By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin, at room temperature in less than an hour. Preferably, the volatile oil has a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25 C. After evaporation of these oils, a deposit of particles is obtained, which is not sticky on the skin or the mucous membranes. Preferably, oils with a high flash point are used to

  allow the use of these oils in formulation.

  As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,

  decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hepta-

  methylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and / or mixtures thereof.

  The volatile silicone is preferably present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 2 to 60% approximately, preferably from 10 to 45%

  approximately by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In addition to modified beeswax and volatile silicone, the composition according to the invention can comprise any other fatty substance chosen from oils,

  pasty fats, waxes and their mixtures.

  The oils can be chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon and / or silicone, alone or

  mixed as long as they are compatible with the intended use.

  The oils, excluding volatile silicone, can be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1 to 70% approximately, by weight, relative to

the total weight of the composition.

  Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oil, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grapes, sesame, corn, macaw, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or germ of cereals; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate,

  Diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2ethyl palmitate

  hexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin or glycerine triisostearate diglycerol; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; 'higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol; non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, or optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or

  polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

  Among the waxes solid at room temperature, which may be present in the composition according to the invention, in addition to the beeswax modified above, mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, Carnauba wax , Candellila, Ouricoury, Japan, cork or sugar cane waxes, paraffin waxes, lignite, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, waxes polyethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and glycerides concrete at 25 C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyl, alkoxy and / or esters polymethylsiloxane. The waxes can be in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal particles of wax as they can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32. Like wax

  liquid at room temperature, there may be mentioned Jojoba oil.

  The waxes, excluding modified beeswax, can be present at a rate of I to 20%

  approximately by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The pasty fatty compounds can be defined using at least one of the following physicochemical properties: - a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa .s, measured at 40 C with a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer equipped with an MS-r3 or MS-r4 mobile phone at a frequency of 60 Hz,

  - a melting point of 25-70 C, preferably 25-55 C.

  The composition according to the invention may also contain liposoluble dyes.

  These liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, 3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow, 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 , quinoline yellow. They can represent from 0.01

  to 20% of the total weight of the compositions and better still from 0.1 to 6%.

  The pasty fatty substances can represent from 0.1 to 60% approximately, preferably

  from 2 to 40% approximately, by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.

  The compositions according to the invention can also comprise a particulate phase comprising pulverulent compounds chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers usually used in the compositions

cosmetics, and mixtures thereof.

  The pulverulent compounds are preferably present in a content ranging from 5

  at about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The fillers, which can be present in the composition in an amount of 540% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Teflon (polytetrafluoroethylene), starch, natural mother-of-pearl, boron nitride, microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), micro sponges such as polytrap (Dow Corning). It is also possible to use spherical fillers such as polyethylene powders, nylon powders, microbeads of silicone resin (Toshiba's Tospearls), silica microspheres. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fillers are present at a content of from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pigments can be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, nacres such as mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black and of barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum lakes. The pigments can also have a hydrophobic surface or can be treated so as to make their surface hydrophobic; this treatment can be carried out according to methods known to those skilled in the art; the pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes and / or

amino acids.

  Among the coated pigments, there may be mentioned in particular the pigments sold under the name "SA" by the company Miyoshi (pigments coated PDMS), the pigments coated with Stearoyl glutamate of Aluminum sold by the Miyoshi sodiety

under the name "NAI".

  The pigments thus coated can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention in a proportion of between 0.1 and 30% by weight relative to the

total weight of the composition.

  In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigments are present at a content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the composition. The nacres can be present in the composition in an amount of 0-30% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight. Among the possible nacres, mention may be made of nacrenatural, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide,

  natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica.

  The composition according to the invention can also comprise an aqueous phase.

  This aqueous phase can comprise water, floral water such as blueberry water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or water.

  LA ROCHE POSAY and / or thermal water.

  The aqueous phase can also include solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,

  diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (Cl-C4) mono ether, di-

  or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase can also comprise water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field under consideration such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of

  rhodamine, disodium fuchsin salt, xanthophyll.

  Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the compositions of the invention at a content ranging from 0 to 70% by weight approximately, preferably from 0.1

  at about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention can also comprise a cosmetically, pharmaceutically or hygienically acceptable medium. It can then include any additive usually used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical or hygienic field, such as surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, sphingolipids, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon polymers, such as polybutene, polyalkylenes,

  polyacrylates and silicone polymers compatible with fatty substances.

  These additives can be present in the composition at a rate of 0-15% by weight. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or

  substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic product and in particular in the form of a care product for the body and / or the face and / or the scalp or alternatively a makeup, in

  especially a foundation, concealer, blush or eyeshadow, an eye-

  liner, a mascara or a lipstick, a body makeup product.

  They can be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a W / O or O / W or multiple emulsion, in the form of a dispersion or a solution. They can be in the form of a solid, compacted, poured product or a stick. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions are preferably in the form of a solid composition and

  preferably still in the form of a stick.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid composition” means a composition of which the penetrometry, measured using the Stevens Analyzer texture (mobile TA24, diameter 4 mm, speed 0.5 mm / s, depth 2 mm, ambient temperature, ie 25 ° C.) is more than about 50 g. Preferably this penetrometer ranges from 80 g to about 400 g. The invention will be better illustrated with the aid of the following examples. In all these examples, the quantities are given in percentages by weight, relative to the

total weight of the composition.

  EXAMPLE 1: Comparative The Applicant produced composition A according to the following invention: Composition A: - myristyl myristate 2% 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 1% - vaseline oil 2% - apricot almond oil 2 % - pigments 8% - UV filter 7% - saponite 0.5% - acrylate copolymer 0.2% - acrylamide / isoparaffin / laureth-7 copolymer 0.5% beeswax modified by esterification with a dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Siliconyl Beeswax" by Koster Keunen 4.8% cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (or hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) 10% glycerin 5% - stearic acid 3% - triethanolamine 1% - preservatives qs - water qs 100% Composition A was produced from as follows: part of the water, glycerin, water-soluble preservatives were heated in a Beaker 1 to C. The pigments were then ground in the rest of the water and the saponite gel was tricylinder, then this ground material was added to beaker 1. It was dispersed by turb ine Moritz 5 min, then heated in a Bain Marie at 75 C. Triethanolamine was added. In a beaker 2, the stearic acid, the oils and the esters (except the volatile silicone), the modified beeswax, the UV filter and the liposoluble preservatives were melted in a Marie vers C bath. In a capsule, the acrylate copolymers were pasted in volatile silicone. We have

  add beaker 2 to beaker 1 at 75 ° C., with high speed turbine stirring.

  We emulsified for 10 min. The pasted charge was then added. The mixture was stirred until perfect dispersion, then allowed to cool at low speed to C. Then the acrylic copolymer was introduced and the blades were debubbled

up to 25 C.

  The Applicant has also produced a comparative composition B, of the same composition as composition A above but in which the beeswax modified by esterification with a dimethicone copolyol has been replaced by an unmodified beeswax, namely the pure white beeswax sold under the trade name "white beeswax GR B889" by the company

Koster Keunen.

  These two compositions were tested in make-up as follows: 4 models applied the control composition B ("classic" beeswax) against

  composition A with modified beeswax, half-face.

  As a result, composition A according to the invention spreads better (better sliding), it has a softer, more creamy and finer texture. It provides fresher makeup than composition B. In addition, composition A gives a makeup which marks the pores of the face less than composition B.

EXAMPLE 2:

  The Applicant has produced stick C according to the following invention: Composition C: - isononyl isononanoate 12.2% - shea butter 1% pigments 15% - polyethylene wax 1.6% - acrylate copolymer 0.5 % polytetrafluoroethylene wax 8% - beeswax modified by esterification with a dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Siliconyl Beeswax" by Koster Keunen 8% - cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (or hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) 50.7% - methylsilsesquioxane 2% stick has a hardness, measured according to the method described in this

request, from: 85 g.

  This stick was prepared as follows: the oils (except the volatile silicone) and the waxes were weighed in a double-walled beaker. It was heated to 90-95 C and allowed to melt this phase (phase A). When phase A is melted, the microdisperser is placed under Rayneri. Then add the pigments. Then added the acrylate copolymer pasted in the silicone, then the fillers

  (polytetrafluoroethylene and methylsilsesquioxane wax). We mill on the three-cylinder.

  It is reheated to 80 ° C. in a double wall beaker under a microdisperse. We

  flows at 80 C in preheated cups on the water bath.

  The Applicant has also produced the following comparative stick D: Composition D: - isononyl isononanoate 12.2% - shea butter 1% pigments 15% - polyethylene wax 1.6% - acrylate copolymer 0.5% wax polytetrafluoroethylene 8% - hydrogenated jojoba oil 8% cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (or hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) 50.7% methylsilsesquioxane 2% - active 1% In composition D, the modified beeswax has been replaced by a soft wax, oil hydrogenated jojoba. Stick D was prepared in the same way as stick C. The two sticks C and D were tested in make-up in the same way as in Example 1. It follows that the stick according to C the invention s spreads better, has better slipperiness. It has a softer, smoother and finer texture. It provides fresher makeup than stick D. In addition, stick C gives a makeup that marks the pores of the face less than stick D.

Claims (12)

  1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, characterized in that it comprises   i) at least one modified beeswax and ii) at least one volatile silicone.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the modified beeswax is chosen from dimethicone copolyol modified beeswax, polyethylene glycol-8 modified beeswax, polyglycerol-3 modified beeswax, and their mixtures.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the wax   modified beeswax is dimethicone copolyol modified beeswax.   4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the modified beeswax is present at a content ranging from approximately 0.5 to 15%, preferably from approximately 1.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. 5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile silicone is chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,   decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hepta-   methylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and / or mixtures thereof.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that the volatile silicone is present in a content ranging from 2% to approximately%, preferably from 10 to 45% approximately by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a fatty substance chosen from among   oils, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a particulate phase comprising pulverulent compounds chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers and their mixtures.   9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pulverulent compounds are present at a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight,   relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it further comprises an aqueous phase.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it is in the form of a solid composition,   preferably in the form of a stick.   12. Method for non-therapeutic treatment of the skin and / or scalp, in particular a makeup method, consisting in applying to the skin or the mucous membranes and / or to the scalp a composition as defined in one   any of claims 1 to 11.