FR2828811A1 - USE OF LUFFA CYLINDRICA OIL IN RELIPIDANT COSMETIC AND DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns the use of <i>Luffa cylindrica</i> oil, on its own or in combination with other active ingredients, in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions for all types of care for the skin, mucosa and skin appendages (nails, hairs and hair), especially for restoring lipids to any biological tissue which has lost same, for whatever reason, thereby enabling it to fulfill its role properly as protective barrier against daily external attacks.

Description

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The skin is an organ whose main physiological function is to be a barrier against the external aggressions that the body undergoes daily.

For this, its biochemical composition, and more particularly that of the stratum comeum, is of paramount importance. Any disturbance, qualitative or quantitative, results in multiple dysfunctions that lead at best to simple discomfort, at worst, to more or less pathological situations.

The very particular morphology of the stratum comeum, imbrication of comeocytes and lipidic lamellar structures, often represented schematically by the image of an assembly of bricks and mortar, is essential for maintaining this barrier function of the skin.

Until now, the comeocyte envelopes entangled in an intercellular matrix composed essentially of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids have been represented.

The progressing analysis techniques and the recent work of several teams on in vivo samples have made it possible to give a more complete and finer picture of the constitution of the epidermis.

The detailed exploration of the lipid composition of the different layers of the epidermis was approached by LAVRIJSEN (1994, Arch. Dermatol., 286: 495).

He observed during sequential scraping, layer after layer (technique also known under the Anglo-Saxon name: stripping), a significant amount of fatty acids, di- and triglycerides, cholesteryl esters in the outermost layers gradually leaving a more great place for ceramides, cholesterol and phospholipids with remarkable stability in the composition of ceramide subtypes from one layer to another.

The following table indicates the percentage of the different lipid fractions found in the skin samples obtained after 1 to 6 sequential scrapings.

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1 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 6
<tb> Glucosphingolipids <SEP> 3 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 6 <SEP> 5
<tb> Ceramides <SEP> 15 <SEP> 20 <SEP> 21 <SEP> 23 <SEP> 22 <SEP> 21
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insensible en eau (PIE, connue également sous la dénomination anglo-saxonne : T. E. W. L. ou transe , pidermal water loss

<tb>
<tb> Cholesterol <SEP> free <SEP> 7 <SEP> 7 <SEP> 8 <SEP> 11 <SEP> 17 <SEP> 11
<tb> Free <SEP> fatty <SEP> acids <SEP> 30 <SEP> 11 <SEP> 13 <SEP> 11 <SEP> 13 <SEP> 14
<tb> Di / Triglycerides <SEP> 27 <SEP> 32 <SEP> 26 <SEP> 24 <SEP> 24 <SEP> 23
<tb> Cholesterol <SEP><SEP><SEP> 11 <SEP> 15 <SEP> 15 <SEP> 14 <SEP> 13 <SEP> 13
<tb> Squalene <SEP> 4 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 4
<tb> Alkanes <SEP> 1 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4
<tb> Phospholipids <SEP> 0 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 10
<tb> Cholesterol <SEP><SEP><SEP> 0 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 0
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He also highlighted the very great inter-individual variability affecting the relative proportions between the different lipids and the ceramides, and objectified the importance of these different lipid layers on the maintenance of the loss.

insensitive to water (PIE, also known under the Anglo-Saxon name: TEWL or trance, pidermal water loss

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<tb> 1 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 6
<tb> TEWL <SEP> (gm-2, h-1)) <SEP> 6 <SEP> 21 <SEP> 27 <SEP> 38 <SEP> 45 <SEP> 85
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Then came the work of BONTE (1997, Arch. Dermatol, 289: 78) which indicated a significant change in the relative lipid composition beyond the 3rd stripping layer. Free fatty acids, while decreasing regularly from layer 1 to 5, see their composition change from a majority of short chain mono or polyunsaturated lipids in C14: 0 to C 18: 3 to long chain lipids in C24: 0 generally saturated.

The following table shows the results obtained during the determination by gas phase chromatography of the free fatty acids (chain length and degree of unsaturation) expressed in g / 100 g (ND: not detected) for scratching levels 1 and 5.

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C14 <SEP> 0 <SEP> C14 # 1 <SEP> C16 # 0 <SEP> C16 # 1 <SEP> C18 # 0 <SEP> C18 # 1 <SEP> C18: 2 <SEP> C20 # 0 <SEP> to <SEP> Total <SEP> C24 <SEP> 0
<tb> C22.1 <SEP> C14-C18
<tb> 1 <SEP> 0.6 <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> 2.1 <SEP> 0.8 <SEP> 1.1 <SEP> 1.6 <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> ND <SEP> 6.7 <SEP> 0.5
<tb> 5 <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> 1.6 <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> 0.7 <SEP> 0.9 <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> ND <SEP> 4.4 <SEP> 0.9
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This observation of the existence of greater quantities of fatty acids with a shorter chain on the surface explains a greater fluidity of the lipids of the layers.

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which, becoming less cohesive with each other, prepare and promote desquamation on the surface.

Beyond this mechanical and protective role, these surface fatty acids play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier and their deficit leads to insufficient fatty acid / cholesterol (and / or ceramides) ratios which characterize ichthyosis patients whose TEWL is high (1994, Lavrijsen et al., Arch.

Dermatol 286: p495) Finally, with the most recent work by NORLEN (1999, Arch Dermatol, 290: 508; 1999, J Invest Dermatol, 112: 72), the most faithful possible image of the lipid composition was able to be established with the demonstration of the very particular composition, in fatty acids, of the innermost layers of the stratum comeum.

A study carried out on 22 subjects shows the presence of lipids at a rate of 0.15 mg / cm2 of skin with saturated fatty acids with long and very long chains from C20 to C30.

The highest proportion is C24: 0 lignoceric acid (40%), followed by lipids C26: 0, C25: 0 and C22: 0 which together total 45% and are secondarily the most strongly represented.

According to the author, this particular composition of the internal stratum comeum probably contributes to a transition from the crystalline multilamellar state to an "amorphous" state reinforcing greater impermeability to water loss. The lipid composition of the human skin barrier is summarized in the following table

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<tb> Cholesteryl <SEP> Fatty acids <SEP><SEP> Cholesterol <SEP> Ceramides
<tb> free <SEP> esters
<tb>% <SEP> Weight <SEP> 18 <SEP> 11 <SEP> 24 <SEP> 47
<tb>% <SEP> Molar <SEP> 15 <SEP> 16 <SEP> 32 <SEP> 37
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Apart from the free fatty acids, the esterified fatty acids entering into the cholesteryl esters are essentially monounsaturated and made up of 70% oleic acid.

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(Cl 8: 1), while those coupled in the form of acyl ceramides are essentially linoleics (Cl 8: 2).

We already know the importance of ceramides in maintaining hydration, supported until recently by SHINISHI (2000), who demonstrates (in animals) a very strong increase in EIP, during administration. a diet deficient in essential fatty acids, preventing the incorporation of linoleic residues in ceramides 1 and causing a strong disturbance of the IEP.

In summary, from the many information resulting from these recent works (1996- 1999), it appears that the free surface fatty acids are essentially short-chain fatty acids, often monounsaturated and less than C: 20, whereas the fatty acids of the layers deep are long chain, from C: 24 to C: 30, and are completely saturated.

Mono and polyunsaturated C: 18-linked fatty acids are closely associated with the genesis of cholesteryl esters and ceramide 1.

These lipids form multilamellar layers located in the intercellular spaces: it is this spatial organization which is essential to maintain the barrier function of the epidermis and prevent water loss, but it also determines the mechanical properties of the skin, a very coherent at depth, more inhomogeneous at the surface and ensuring its peeling capacity.

Any damage to the skin surface, mainly through improper use of toiletries, disrupts this natural arrangement and leads, via the imbalance between free surface fatty acids and deep fatty acids, to an alteration of the barrier effect with an increase in the insensible water loss.

The cosmetics industry is therefore entirely in its role when it is constantly looking for new concepts and products capable of preventing or reducing skin dryness of all origins.

The object of this patent application lies in the discovery, and in the demonstration, that a new solution can be proposed to effectively rebalance a skin which has lost, for whatever reason, its

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composition initiale et ainsi, lui rendre son efficacité optimale dans rôle de barrière contre les diverses agressions extérieures subies quotidiennement.

initial composition and thus, restore its optimal effectiveness in the role of barrier against the various external aggressions suffered daily.

A lipid-replenishing cosmetic active ingredient must offer the skin the right proportion of the various fatty acids allowing it to reconstitute its lipids in the superficial areas: it is in this context that we have selected vegetable sponge oil or even Luffa cylindrica oil, because its composition is optimum in relation to the desired effect.

Luffa cylindrica, also called "wild silk gourd" in China, "loofah" or "vegetable sponge" in France, belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family.

It is a creeping and climbing vine which after flowering gives a fruit with a very developed fibrous vascular system. After drying of this internal network, a fibrous bar remains, widely used throughout Asia as a sponge or towel.

This plant produces a squash that can only be eaten in its immature form.

After a bright yellow bloom, this cucurbit gives a fruit that can reach a large size (1 to 3 kg) which produces many black, oblong and good-sized seeds (lcm in length) from which glycoproteins with antiviral properties (protein ribosome inactivator [RUAN, 1998] and anti-tumor [POMA, 1999].

A clinical study (1999) also reports an anti-hay fever activity of an extract of Luffa in the form of a spray. From the culture of Luffa cells, some teams have isolated bryonolic acid, the activity of suppressing delayed hypersensitivity seems very interesting [TANAKA, 1991].

The invention that is the subject of this patent application lies in the fact that we have discovered that the oil obtained from the seeds of Luffa cylindrica applied regularly topically makes it possible to maintain the skin lipid constitution at a qualitative and quantitative level. optimum to allow it to optimally play its role of barrier between the organism and the external mileiu.

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Obtained by cold pressing, or by any other method, from seeds of Luffa cylindrica, this oil is characterized by a very high short-chain polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) composition, greater than 60%.

Throughout the development of the invention forming the subject of this patent application, this analytical characteristic was found during the analyzes carried out on this product.

We have previously seen the importance of these fatty acids at the level of the constituents of the epidermis, a deficit of which leads to the following disorders:> Desquamation disorders> Hypertrophy of the sebaceous glands and hyperkeratosis> Weakened skin capillaries> Increased insensitive loss in water Of the oleic-linoleic type, Loofah cylindrica oil contains a total of 79% of short-chain fatty acids, of which 62% of essential fatty acids in linoleic (60%) and y-linolenic (1, 5 to 2%).

du stratum comeum (1997, Bonte ; ND : non détecté).

The following table allows a more detailed examination of the sub-distribution of the fatty acids which enter in the total composition of the oil of Luffa cylindrica (Luffa), which brings other sources of interest for this oil compared to that

stratum comeum (1997, Bonte; ND: not detected).

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C14 <SEP>: <SEP> 0 <SEP> C14 <SEP>: <SEP> 1 <SEP> C16 <SEP>: <SEP> 0 <SEP> C16. <SEP> 1 <SEP> Cl8 <SEP>: <SEP> 0 <SEP> Cl8 <SEP>: <SEP> l <SEP> C18. <SEP> 2 <SEP> C20 <SEP>: <SEP> 0to
<tb> C22: 1
<tb> Stratum <SEP> corneum <SEP> 4.0 <SEP> 8.0 <SEP> 30.0 <SEP> 8.0 <SEP> 13.0 <SEP> 17.0 <SEP> 4.0 <SEP> ND
<tb> Luffa <SEP> 0, <SEP> l <SEP> ND <SEP> 12, <SEP> 2 <SEP> 0, <SEP> l <SEP> 5, <SEP> 5 <SEP> 19, <SEP> 6 <SEP> 59, <SEP> 7 <SEP> Traces
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In fact, a distribution of monounsaturated to polyunsaturated short chain fatty acids between C14: 0 and Cl 8: 2 is observed: a situation very similar to that of the skin. Palmitic acid (C16: 0), 30% of the lipids of the stratum corneum is also well represented with 12% in the oil of Luffa cylmdrica.

Oleic acid (C18: 1) represents 17% of skin fatty acids and 19.6% of fatty acids in Luffa cylindrica oil.

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The peculiarity of Luffa cylindrica oil is its high content of linoleic acid C18: 2 (59%), essential fatty acid constituting ceramide 1, one of the linchpins in the periodic lamellar structural organization and deficient in dry or aged skin. (2000, Schreiner).

Thus, with the lipid composition of Luffa cylindrica oil, close to that of stratum comeum, it is possible to obtain a notable beneficial effect on damaged, defatted skin having an impaired IEP.

The following two examples will illustrate effective cosmetic preparations for replenishing skin tissue made with Luffa cylindrica seed oil.

Example nO 1: Washing base

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<tb><SEP> potassium sorbate <SEP><SEP> 0, <SEP> 10
<tb> Empicol <SEP> ESB3 / M <SEP> 30.0
<tb> Incronam <SEP> 30 <SEP> 4.0
<tb> Empilan <SEP> LIS <SEP> 1.5
<tb> Crothix <SEP> liquid <SEP> 2.0
<tb> Phenova <SEP> 0.8
<tb><SEP> Luffa <SEP> Cylindrica <SEP> Oil <SEP> 2,0
<tb> Perfume <SEP>&<SEP> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100
<tb>

Exemple nO 2 : Gel après douche

Example nO 2: After shower gel

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<tb> NaOH <SEP> 10 <SEP> N <SEP> 0, <SEP> 10
<tb> Pemulen <SEP> TR-2 <SEP> 0.30
<tb> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Luffa <SEP> Cylindrica <SEP> 3.0
<tb> Perfume <SEP>&<SEP> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100
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The following two examples demonstrate the effectiveness of our invention by in vivo tests.

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Example No. 3: Skin relipidation It is possible, by new infrared techniques (known as ATR-FTIR), to precisely identify the lipid signals of the stratum comeum (inter-comeocytic lipids).

The absorption by the epidermis of an infrared emission results in the re-emission of different return signals between proteins, water and lipids because they are specific for the typical bonds of each molecular category (OH bond for water; amide bond for proteins; CH2 bonds, CH = CH, C = O esters for lipids).

On a standard profile of normal skin, it is thus possible to identify 4 signals specific to the following lipid patterns: # A double peak 2851/2919 cm-1 (C-H2)) 0. A peak at 1740 cm-l (C = O)) 0. A peak at 1450 cm-l (-CH)> The probe, made up of a Zn-Se crystal, is simply applied in contact with the skin, the re-emitted signals are directly recorded on the device.

We expect, for a delipidated skin, an alteration of this profile on these 4 specific peaks of the constituent lipids.

During the following test we first established a comparison of the typical profiles for the normal state and the delipidated state.

We then selected a panel of 10 volunteers: the skin of the forearm was chosen as the test area.

Half of the panel, that is to say 5 volunteers, presented a delipidated skin, the second half of the panel a normal skin which was subjected to defatting by a simple toilet with a washing base (example nl without Loofah): the initial state of the "delipidated" spectrum "was recorded for all the subjects, then a gel containing 2% of Luffa cylindrava oil was applied (cf. example no. 2).

In order not to take into account the transient surface lipid state (effect of spreading the product), the final measurements were taken after 1 hour.

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The following tables (n = n of the volunteer whose values are given,: = mean, à = variation observed, p = statistical significance, Luffa = Luffa cylindrica oil at 2% of example n 2) indicate the results obtained in taking into account the 4 lipid peaks.

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A / <SEP> Subjects <SEP> to <SEP> skin <SEP> deficient <SEP> in <SEP> lipids
<tb> Signals <SEP> 2851/2919 <SEP> cm-1 <SEP> Signal <SEP> 1740 <SEP> cm-1 <SEP> Signal <SEP> 1450 <SEP> cm-1
<tb> (area <SEP> under <SEP> pic) <SEP> (area <SEP> under <SEP> pic) <SEP> (area <SEP> under <SEP> pic)
<tb> n <SEP> Initial <SEP> State <SEP> Luffa <SEP> Initial <SEP> State <SEP> Luffa <SEP> Initial <SEP> State <SEP> Luffa
<tb> 1 <SEP> 0.78 <SEP> 2.60 <SEP> 0.015 <SEP> 0.046 <SEP> 0.107 <SEP> 0.150
<tb> 2 <SEP> 1.35 <SEP> 1.55 <SEP> 0.073 <SEP> 0.12 <SEP> 0.217 <SEP> 0.240
<tb> 3 <SEP> 0.20 <SEP> 0.43 <SEP> 0.016 <SEP> 0.03 <SEP> 0.038 <SEP> 0.044
<tb> 4 <SEP> 0.28 <SEP> 0.89 <SEP> 0.015 <SEP> 0.091 <SEP> 0.030 <SEP> 0.080
<tb> 5 <SEP> 0.65 <SEP> 1.84 <SEP> 0.035 <SEP> 0.126 <SEP> 0.122 <SEP> 0.201
<tb> @ <SEP> 0.65 <SEP> 1.46 <SEP> 0.031 <SEP> 0.083 <SEP> 0.103 <SEP> 0.143
<tb> @ <SEP> x2.2 <SEP> X2.6 <SEP> X1.4
<tb> p <SEP> p = 0.05 <SEP> p = 0.02 <SEP> p = 0.03
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Value of lipid enrichment signals in volunteers with initial skin deficient in lipids then after application of 2% Loofah cylindrica oil Volunteers whose skin was naturally delipidated saw their infrared profile change significantly by a factor of improvement of about 1.4 to 2.6, highly significant for each signal peak, indicating perfect incorporation of fatty acids from sponge oil within the horny structure.

B / Subjects to normal skin delipidated by the use of a cleansing product

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<tb> Signals <SEP> 2851/2919 <SEP> cm-l <SEP> Signal <SEP> 1740 <SEP> cm-l <SEP> Signal <SEP> 1450 <SEP> cm-l
<tb> 1 <SEP> 1, <SEP> 02 <SEP> 0.72 <SEP> 2.47 <SEP> 0.063 <SEP> 0.051 <SEP> 0.190 <SEP> 0.179 <SEP> 0.092 <SEP> 0.360
<tb> 2 <SEP> 0.76 <SEP> 0.30 <SEP> 0.59 <SEP> 0.062 <SEP> 0.013 <SEP> 0.045 <SEP> 0.112 <SEP> 0.063 <SEP> 0.112
<tb> 3 <SEP> 1.20 <SEP> 0.40 <SEP> 1.16 <SEP> 0.059 <SEP> 0.051 <SEP> 0.128 <SEP> 0.149 <SEP> 0.057 <SEP> 0.196
<tb> 4 <SEP> 8.83 <SEP> 2.44 <SEP> 5.42 <SEP> 0.801 <SEP> 0.180 <SEP> 0.501 <SEP> 0.0856 <SEP> 0.306 <SEP> 0.560
<tb> 5 <SEP> 2.33 <SEP> 0.68 <SEP> 2.00 <SEP> 0.067 <SEP> 0.028 <SEP> 0.112 <SEP> 0.304 <SEP> 0.081 <SEP> 0.244
<tb> @ <SEP> 2.82 <SEP> 0.90 <SEP> 2.32 <SEP> 0.210 <SEP> 0.065 <SEP> 0.195 <SEP> 0.320 <SEP> 0.111 <SEP> 0.294
<tb> @ <SEP> Deficit <SEP> Return <SEP> Deficit <SEP> Return <SEP> Deficit <SEP> Return
<tb> x3 <SEP> to <SEP> the <SEP> x3 <SEP> to <SEP> the <SEP> x3 <SEP> to <SEP> the
<tb> normal <SEP> normal <SEP> normal
<tb>

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<tb>
<tb> p <SEP> p = <SEP> 0, <SEP> 07 <SEP> p = 0.50 <SEP> p = 0.07 <SEP> p = 0, <SEP> 80 <SEP> p = 0.05 <SEP> p = 0.07
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Value of lipid signals in volunteers with normal initial skin made deficient by cleaning with a washing base followed by application of a gel containing 2% Luffa cylindrica oil.

The volunteers whose skin was normal, which was defatted by the artifice of a washing base, saw their signals collapse by a factor of 3; 1 hour after application of the gel containing 2% Luffa cylindrica oil, a return to normal was obtained with initial and final values not statistically different.

Example 3: Insensitive loss of water Daily showering with a washing agent gradually alters the skin barrier, causes defatting of the upper layers of the epidermis and therefore its corollary: increase in IEP.

The insensitive water loss is measured with a Tewameter (TM210, Courage and Khazaka) using a probe simultaneously capturing relative humidity, temperature and PIE expressed in g / h / m 0.

In a preliminary test carried out on 4 volunteers, the measurement of the IEP after 4 days of using a washing base (example nl but without Luffa cylindrica oil) showed a clear increase in it on 2 sites previously chosen on each of the legs. The following table shows the results observed 2 hours after using the washing base

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<tb> Site <SEP> 1 <SEP> Site <SEP> 2
<tb> TO <SEP> T4days <SEP> TO <SEP> T4days
<tb> PIE <SEP> average <SEP> 8.0 <SEP> 8.6 <SEP> 7.8 <SEP> 8.8
<tb>% <SEP> Increase <SEP> of <SEP> PIE <SEP> - <SEP> +7.6 <SEP> - <SEP> +13.2
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The increase in the IEP on the 2 sites (+ 7.6% and + 13.2%) clearly demonstrates the effect of weakening the skin barrier by the repeated use of a conventional washing base.

In a similar manner, a total panel of 10 volunteers applied to the 2 sites and for 8 days, i.e. the same washing base (example n 1 but without

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Luffa cylindrica) sur le site n l, soit cette base lavante (exemple n l, donc avec l'huile 2 % d'huile de Luffa cylindrica) sur le site 2, les PIE ont été enregistrées à JO et J8, les résultats suivants ont été obtenus :

Luffa cylindrica) on site nl, or this washing base (example nl, therefore with 2% oil from Luffa cylindrica oil) on site 2, the PIEs were recorded at D0 and D8, the following results were obtained:

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<tb> Site <SEP> 1 <SEP> Site <SEP> 2
<tb> TO * <SEP> T8 <SEP> days <SEP> TO <SEP> T8 <SEP> days
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> n <SEP> 1 <SEP> 9.3 <SEP> 11.0 <SEP> 9.2 <SEP> 9.7
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> n <SEP> 9.2 <SEP> 8.5 <SEP> 10.2 <SEP> 8.8
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> nO <SEP> 3 <SEP> 9.1 <SEP> 11.0 <SEP> 8.9 <SEP> 9.2
<tb> Volunteer <SEP>n'4<SEP> 7.0 <SEP> 7.7 <SEP> 6.8 <SEP> 6.5
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> 5. <SEP> 6.8 <SEP> 7.7 <SEP> 7.7 <SEP> 7.7
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> n <SEP> 6 <SEP> 6.3 <SEP> 8.7 <SEP> 8.5 <SEP> 5.9
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> n 7 <SEP> 9.3 <SEP> 6.8 <SEP> 8.4 <SEP> 6.2
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> 8 <SEP> 8.8 <SEP> 6.4 <SEP> 8.1 <SEP> 6.3
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> nO <SEP> 9 <SEP> 10.2 <SEP> 9.1 <SEP> 9.4 <SEP> 8.0
<tb> Volunteer <SEP> nO <SEP> 10 <SEP> 10.0 <SEP> 8.9 <SEP> 9.6 <SEP> 8.0
<tb> PIE <SEP> average <SEP> 8.6 <SEP> 8.0 <SEP> 8.7 <SEP> 7.6
<tb>% <SEP> Variation - 0. <SEP> 2% - 12%
<tb>
In this test, the PIE is measured 8 hours after using the shower gel, so the measurement reflects the long-term consequences of the effects of the morning shower.

Naturally, a skin defatted by aggression in the morning, will reconstitute its lipid level during the day: we see that for the control panel, 5 of the volunteers still have a lipid deficit at the end of the day (vol nl, 3,4 , 5,6) with an increased IEP.

On the other hand, the results obtained with the washing base containing 2% of Luffa cylmdrica oil show a protective effect, with for all the subjects, a decrease in the IEP, and a very significant improvement in the barrier effect, in average of 12% after 8 days of use.

The use of a simple washing base gradually modifies the skin barrier with an increase in the IEP.

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The use of a cleansing base containing the oil of Luffa cylinbrzca allows to maintain the capital of protection of the skin and restores a previously altered PIE, with an improvement of this one of 12%.

In conclusion, Luffa cylindrica oil, by virtue of its fatty acid composition close to that of the epidermis, makes it possible to replenish skin initially deficient in lipids.

Due to the activity demonstrated above, Luffa cylzndrica oil can be used as such or in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparations for all care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments (nails, hair and hair), especially to replenish any previously delipidated biological tissue, for any reason whatsoever, thus allowing it to correctly fulfill its role of protective barrier against daily external aggressions.

In addition, its obtaining, its ease of incorporation into all the preparations conventionally used in cosmetics or in dermopharmacy, as well as its cost price, make it an elegant solution which can be perfectly used at the industrial level for solving the skin problems described above.

In the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition, it may be advantageous to combine Luffa cylindrica oil with other active ingredients in order to strengthen its effect by additivity or synergy between the effects of these different products, or in order to combine the effect. described in this patent application with another beneficial physiological effect on the skin, mucous membranes, integuments (nails, body hair and hair).

In the finished cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition, Luffa cylindrica oil can vary between 0.001% and 50% (w / w), preferably between 0.1% and 10% (w / w).

Lujfa cybndrica oil, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, is used in any galenic form used in cosmetics or dermopharrnacie: HOE and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive.

Luffa cylindrica oil is used in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, or encapsulated in vectors such as macro-, micro-or

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nanocapsules, liposomes or chylomicrons, or included in macro-, micro- or nanoparticles, or in micro-sponges, or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports. Luffa cylindrica oil, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, is incorporated into any other ingredient usually used: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosity polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro-or liposoluble, plant extracts, tissue extracts, marine extracts, sun filters, antioxidants.

Luffa cylindrica oil, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, is used in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions; used for all the care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments (nails, hair and hair), especially to replenish any biological tissue previously delipidated, for any reason whatsoever, thus allowing it to correctly fulfill its role of protective barrier against against daily external aggressions.

Luffa cylindrica oil, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, is incorporated into cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions for the preparation of a medicament used for all care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments (nails, hair and skin). hair), especially to replenish any previously delipidated biological tissue, for any reason whatsoever, thus allowing it to correctly fulfill its role of protective barrier against daily external aggression.

Luffa cylindrica oil, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, is incorporated in cosmetic or dennopharmaceutical compositions, bound or incorporated or absorbed or adsorbed in the form of macro-, micro- and nanoparticles or in macro-, micro -and nanocapsules, in textiles, synthetic or natural fibers, wools and any materials likely to be used to make clothes and underwear for day or night, directly in contact with the skin or hair to allow a continuous topical delivery.

Claims (8)

CLAIMS 1. Use of Luffa cylindrica oil in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions for all care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments (nails, hair and hair), especially to replenish any biological tissue previously delipidated, for any reason whatsoever. either, thus allowing it to properly fulfill its role as a protective barrier. 2. Cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions for all the care of all the care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments (nails, hairs and hair), especially to replenish any previously delipidated biological tissue, for any reason whatsoever, thus allowing it to correctly fulfill its role of protective barrier, characterized in that they contain Luffa cylindrica obtained by cold pressing or any other method from Luffa cylindrica seeds, and that the concentration of this oil in short-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) is greater than 60%. 3. Cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claim 2, characterized in that the content of Luffa cylindrica oil can vary between 0.001% and 50% (w / w), preferably between 0.1% and 10% (w / w). 4. Cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 3, characterized in that they are provided in any galenic form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: O / W emulsions and W / O, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils. 5. Cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the Luffa cylindrica oil is incorporated into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports. 6. Cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the Luffa cylindrica oil is <Desc / Clms Page number 15> used with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscous polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water-soluble or liposoluble active ingredients, in particular caffeine, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts. 7. Use of the compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 6 for the preparation of medicaments for all care of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments (nails, hairs and hair), especially for replenishing any previously delipidated biological tissue, for for whatever reason, allowing it to properly fulfill its role as a protective barrier. 8. Use of the compositions according to any one of claims 2 to 6 characterized in that the Luffa cylindrica oil is bound or incorporated or absorbed or adsorbed in the form of macro-, micro- and nanoparticles or in macro-, micro -and nanocapsules, in textiles, synthetic or natural fibers, wools and any materials likely to be used to make clothes and underwear for day or night, directly in contact with the skin or hair to allow a continuous topical delivery.