FR2968942A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ZINC SALT AND 1,2-OCTANEDIOL - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising one or more zinc salts and 1,2-octanediol, the weight ratio of the amount of zinc salt (s) to the amount of 1,2-octanediol being strictly greater than 1 and the content of 1,2-octanediol being strictly less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Another subject of the invention relates to the use of such a composition as an antimicrobial and anti-fungal agent.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition which comprises in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one zinc salt in combination with 1,2-octanediol, in particular proportions, and the use of such a composition to protect and / or combat the development of microbes. In order to inhibit the growth of molds, yeasts, bacteria and other microbes in cosmetic compositions, preservatives are usually used. These must be chosen with great care not to inhibit the activity or affect the effectiveness of the other ingredients present in the cosmetic composition. In addition, they must meet certain criteria of stability, effectiveness, and safety. In addition, they must not affect the appearance of the cosmetic composition to which they are added (browning, for example).

In the context of aqueous compositions comprising, as active cosmetic agents, zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate or zinc chloride for protecting, for example, the artificial color of colored hair, it has been found that it is difficult to effectively and durably protect such compositions against microorganisms such as yeasts, bacteria, molds, and other microbes, without harming the cosmetic properties of the composition. In particular, the microbial protection of these aqueous cosmetic compositions is difficult to achieve when they are not concentrated in zinc salts, for example when they comprise from 0.2 to 3% by weight of zinc salts relative to the total weight of the composition. Surprisingly and advantageously, the Applicant has discovered that the combination of a zinc salt with 1,2-octanediol in a weight ratio zinc salt on 1,2-octanediol particular and a content of 1,2-octanediol In particular, it makes it possible to improve the effectiveness and duration of the microbial protection of aqueous cosmetic compositions, even if they are only slightly concentrated in zinc salts, without affecting the cosmetic properties of the cosmetic compositions. In addition, this combination has the advantage of meeting the storage stability, safety and aesthetic criteria required for the successful marketing of a cosmetic product. The subject of the present invention is a composition comprising: one or more zinc salts and 1,2-octanediol, the weight ratio of the amount of zinc salt to the amount of 1,2-octanediol being strictly greater than 1 and the content of 1,2-octanediol being strictly less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Another subject of the present invention consists of a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to keratin materials, with or without subsequent rinsing. Another object of the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as anti-microbial and anti-fungal agent of a cosmetic composition, such as a hair or dermatological composition. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. The composition according to the invention comprises one or more zinc salts. By "zinc salt" is meant any mineral or organic compound comprising in its structure at least one cation based on zinc and an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. The zinc salt or salts used according to the invention are preferably chosen from water-soluble zinc salts. Preferably, the zinc salt or salts are non-nitrogenous, that is to say do not contain a nitrogen atom.

By "water-soluble zinc salt" is meant any salt having a solubility in water greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, at a temperature of 25 ° C. The zinc salt (s) is (are) chosen from inorganic, organic zinc salts and mixtures thereof. By "zinc mineral salt" is meant any zinc salt optionally containing carbon only in the form of carbonate or hydrogencarbonate ions. Among the mineral zinc salts which can be used, mention may be made, for example, of zinc sulphate and zinc chloride, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic zinc salts which may be used, mention may be made, for example, of zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc citrate, zinc salicylate and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Zinc salicylate and its derivatives according to the invention have the following structure: (R1) p COO Zn2 + OH -In

wherein: n = 2, p is 0, 1.2 or 3; R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl group (for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or n-butyl); a linear or branched C1-C18 hydroxyalkyl group; a halogen atom (for example iodine, bromine, chlorine); a C2-C18 acyl group (for example acetyl); a COR2 or OCOR2 group, wherein R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl group.

Preferentially, the zinc salt or salts are chosen from: zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate, zinc citrate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the zinc salt or salts are selected from: zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate and zinc gluconate, alone or in admixture. More preferably still, the zinc salt is an organic salt of zinc. Even more preferably, the zinc salt is zinc lactate or zinc gluconate. Better still, the zinc salt is zinc gluconate. Zinc gluconate is sold, for example, under the name GIVOBIO G Zn by the company SEPPIC in the composition according to the invention. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1 to 10% by weight of zinc salt (s), in particular from 0.1 to 6.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The concentration of zinc element is preferably less than 2% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.005% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention comprises 1,2-octanediol. 1,2-Octanediol or caprylyl glycol is for example proposed by Dr Stremmans under the name Dermasoft Octiol or by SYMRISE under the name 199602 HYDROLITE CG. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a concentration of 1,2-octanediol ranging from 0.001% to 0.49% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 0.45% by weight, and more preferably from 0, 1% to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the weight ratio of the amount of zinc salt to the amount of 1,2-octanediol varies from 1.1 to 100, in particular, this weight ratio varies from 1.1 to 50 and even more preferably from 1, 1 to 10.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the amount of zinc element to the amount of del, 2-octanediol varies from 0.05 to 2. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional preserving agents different from the 1,2 - octanediol. The preservative agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from sodium benzoate, benzoic acid and phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. When the composition comprises at least one preservative, the amount of the additional preservative (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0 to , 1 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactants chosen from anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, and cationic surfactants. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3, O2PO2H2, O2PO2H, O2PO22. The anionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the compositions of the invention are especially chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoester salts and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts ; or the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C 6-24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C 6-24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6-24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C 6-24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. When the anionic surfactant or agent is in salt form, it is not in the form of zinc salts, and it (s) can be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Alkyl (C 6-24) sulphates, alkyl (C 6-24) ether sulphates, optionally oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, are preferably used. ammonium, aminoalcohol. More preferentially, the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from alkyl (C0 2-20) ether sulphates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide. When present, the amount of the anionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols and (C 1 -C 20) alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups that can range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene, optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine derivatives and N-acyl-methylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides. Unless otherwise stated, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising in its main chain at least one alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 atoms. carbon, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. When present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkylbetaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8) alkylsulfobetaines. Among the optionally used quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the following compounds of structures (I) and (II): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) (CH2000-) (I)

in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

and Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (II)

wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', B' represents - (CH2) z-Y ', with z = 1 or 2, X' represents the group -CH2-0OOH, CH2-COOZ ', -CH2CH2-0OOH, -CH2CH2 -COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom, Y' represents -0OOH, -COOZ ', the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z', Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine. Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate. Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8-20 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8-20 alkyl) amido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine. When present, the amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on total weight of the composition.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant or surfactants that can be used as conditioning agents according to the present invention are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example - those having the following general formula (III): + X (III) in which the radicals R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl or a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R8 to R11 denoting an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 25 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C12-C22) alkyl radicals. acetate, and C1-hydroxyalkyl; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyl dimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, the salt of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, the salt of staramidopropyldimethylcétéaryl ammonium, or the salt of staramidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium. sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (IV) below: + R 13 C CH 2 CH 2 -N (R 15) -CO-NR 14 R 14 C -C H 2 H (IV) in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; X - quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (V): - 17 19

R 1.5 -N- (CH 2) 3 -N-R 21 R 18 R 13

(V) in which R 16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) (R17a) (R18a) N- (CH2) 3, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VI) below: (CsH 2 O) z R 25 CrHr 2 (OH) r 1) y- + (CtHt 2 (OH) ti-O) R 23 R 22 X (VI) in which: R 22 is chosen from C 1 alkyl groups -C6 and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups C1-C6 R23 is chosen from: O - the group R26 O 2X-R24 - the groups R27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - hydrogen atom, R25 is selected from: O

C - the group R28 - the groups R29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups C1-C6, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from the groups C7-C21 hydrocarbonaceous, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; r1 and t1 identical or different, equal to 0 or 1, and r2 and t2 are integers such that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate . However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (VI) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; with r1, r2, t1 and t2 being as previously defined; - X- being as defined above; R 23 is chosen from: O - the group R 26 C - methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from: - the group R28 - the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; . Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. There may be mentioned for example the compounds of formula (VI) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Examples of mixtures of ammonium salts which can be used are the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% by weight of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulphate and 15 to 30% by weight. % by weight of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatamin BTC 131.

Preferably the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one useful ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

When present, the amount of the cationic surfactant (s) is preferably in the range of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more fatty alcohols. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, pure fatty alcohol having at least 8 carbon atoms and not containing oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated radical containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30; R preferably denotes a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. By way of example of fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl, myristic, cetyl, dodecyl, decyl, stearyl, oleic, behenic, linoleic, undecylenic, palmitoleic, arachidonic and erucic alcohols and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol can be a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species of fatty alcohols in the form of a mixture. As a mixture of fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

Among all the fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, one or more fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and myristic alcohol are preferably used. In case of presence, the composition according to the invention may preferably comprise from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. . The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more esters of fatty alcohol and / or of fatty acid. As esters of fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid that can be used, mention may be made of the esters resulting from the esterification reaction of a fatty alcohol as defined above and / or of a fatty acid such as as defined below. By fatty acids is meant in the sense of the present invention, any pure carboxylic acid saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched having at least 8 carbon atoms and having no oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups. As examples of fatty acid, there may be mentioned lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Among all the esters of alcohol and / or fatty acid that can be used according to the invention, the cetyl ester or the stearyl ester is preferably used, and more preferably one of their mixture, as sold, for example, under the name Crodamol MS-Pa by the company Croda. In case of presence, the composition according to the invention may preferably comprise from 0.01 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of ester (s) of alcohol and / or fatty acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-silicone cationic polymers. The cationic polymer or polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, FR-A-2 383 660, FR-A-2 598 611, FR-A-2 470 596, FR-A-2 519 863 and FR-A- The preferred cationic polymer or polymers are chosen from those which contain in their structure units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may for example be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a polymer. lateral substituent directly connected to it.

Among the cationic polymers, there may be mentioned more particularly polymers of the family of polyamines, polyamino amides and quaternary polyammoniums. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, crosslinked or otherwise, and comprising at least one of the units of formulas (VII), (VIII), (IX ) or (X) R3 R3 -CH2 O-O NH1 1 AA 1, 1, NNNR R4 1 R R6 R4 R6 (VII) (VIII) (IX) R3 NH 1 A

NOT

R R2

5 (X) in which

R1 and R2, identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;

R3, which may be identical or different, each denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;

A, which may be identical or different, each represents a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, each represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl group and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R3 OA X- means an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more unit (s) derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1 -C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and methosulphate of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755 "(Polyquaternium-11) or the products referred to as" COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573. Preferably, Polyquaternium-11 is used. dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers; / quaternized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, - crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA. (2) cationic polysaccharides chosen in particular from: a) cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, b) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer such as the hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallyl ammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold corresponding to the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch or "Celquat LOR" by the company Akzo Nobel . c) guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride salt) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL (3) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent radicals alkylene or hydroxyalkylene straight or branched chain optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361. (4) The cationic polyaminoamides soluble in water prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a saturated or unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin , a diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. (5) The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by an alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylamino hydroxyalkyl dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene triamine copolymer. (7) Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having, as a main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (XI) or (XII): (CH2) k (aH2) t-CR12 C (R12) -CH2- 1 1 H2C + ~ CH2 N / \ Y R10 R11 (CH2) k - (CH2) CR12 C (R12) -CH2-H2C \ / CH2 R10 (XII)

in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, an amidoalkyl group; lower (ie whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 4), or R 10 and R 11 may designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y-is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. Preferably, R10 and R11 each independently denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms. of carbon. Among the polymers defined above, homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride may be mentioned, more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) sold for example under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by NALCO (and its counterparts of low molecular weight average) and copolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride, more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold in particular under the name "MERQUAT® 550". (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to formula (XIII): in which: R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; carbon or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups (ie whose alkyl part is C1-C4), or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, constitute heterocycles possibly containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R13, R14, R15 and R16 each represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-E group or -CO-NH-R17-E where R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also designate a group: - (CH2) n -CO-E'-OC- (CH2) n- in which n denotes a number integer from 0 to 7 and E 'denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH2-CH2- O) x-CH 2 -CH 2 - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -O] y -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) - where x and y each denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. Polymers of this type are described in particular in French Patents 2,330,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. , 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 027 020. It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to formula (XIV): (XIV) in which R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having About 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 8, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Preferably, R13, R14, R15 and R16 each denote a methyl group. As an example of a usable polymer of formula (XIV), there may be mentioned hexadimethrine chloride, sold under the name MEXOMERE PO by the company CHIMEX. (9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (XV): ## STR2 ## in which: ## STR2 ## in which CH 3 CH 3 (CH 2) p -NHCO-D-NH (Cl 2) pN (CH 2) 2 (CH 2) 2 CH 3 p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D can be zero or can represent a group - - (CH 2) r - CO - in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or to 7, and X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. The cationic polymers containing units of formula (XV) are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122,324 and may be prepared according to the processes described in US Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,390,689 and 4,702. 906, 4719282. 13 R15 + + r (CH2) fl (CH2) p R14 XR X-1615 Among these polymers, those of molecular weight measured by 13C NMR of less than 100,000, and in the formula of which p is 3, and, a) D is - (CH 2) 4 -CO-, X is chlorine, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR (13C NMR) is about 5600; a polymer of this type is provided by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AD1, b) D represents a group - (CH2) 7 -CO -, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by 13CNR of Carbon 13 (13C NMR) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is provided by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AZ1, c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by NMR of Carbon 13, (13C NMR) being about 25500; a polymer of this type is sold by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-A15, d) a "Block Copolymer" formed by units corresponding to the polymers described in subparagraphs (a) and (c), proposed by MIRANOL under the names MIRAPOL- 9, (13 C NMR molecular weight, about 7800) MIRAPOL-175, (13 C NMR molecular weight, about 8000) MIRAPOL-95, (13 C NMR molecular weight, about 12500). Even more particularly, it is preferred according to the invention the patterned polymer of formula (XV) in which p is equal to 3, D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by NMR of Carbon 13, (13C NMR) being approximately 25500. (10) The quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF (11) ethoxylated cationic tallow polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary. (12) Homopolymers or copolymers of vinylamide and in particular partially hydrolysed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly (vinylamine / vinylamide). These polymers are formed from at least one vinylamide monomer corresponding to the following formula: H2C = CR2NRC (O) R1

wherein R, R 1 and R 2 are each selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl wherein the alkyl portion comprises 1 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, said monomer may be chosen from N-vinylformamide, N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide and N-vinylacetamide. Preferably, poly (vinylamine / N-vinylformamide) is used, as sold under the name CATIOFAST VMP by the company BASF or under the name Lupamine 9030 by the company BASF. These polymers may be formed, for example, by radical polymerization of a vinylamide monomer and then partial acidic or basic hydrolysis of the amide functions to quaternizable amine functions, as described in applications WO 2007/005577, US Pat. Nos. 5,374,334, 6,426,383 and 6,894,110. (13) Cationic polyurethanes. Among all the polyurethanes mentioned above, the polyurethanes formed by the following monomers are preferably used: (a1) at least one N-methyl diethanolamine (denoted NMDEA), (a2) at least one ethylene / butylene copolymer not ionic as sold under the name Krasol LBH-P 2000, and (b) at least one isophrone diisocyanate (denoted IPDI). Preferably, the amines forming the cationic units (a1) represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, of the total weight final polyurethane. These polyurethanes and their syntheses are described for example in the patent application FR-A-289 8 603. (14) Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives. Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyldimethylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-4) or polyquaternium-11 in the composition according to the present invention. the invention. In case of presence, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 2% by weight of cationic polymer (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more silicones, preferably amine (s). Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (XVI):

(R1) a (T) 3-a-Si [OSi (T) 2] n- [OSi (T) b (R1) 2-b] m-OSi (T) 3-a- (R1) a (XVI) ) in which, T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C1-C8 alkyl, and preferably methyl or C1-C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a is the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and especially from 1 to 10; R1 is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groupings: - N (R2) -CH2-CH2-N (R2) 2; - N (R2) 2 N + (R2) 3 Q-

- N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q- - N + (R 2) 2HQ- -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-, in which R 2 can denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical, and Q- represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of the formula (XVII) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## where O-Si O-Si-R "CH 3 CH 3 n A CH3

NH 1 (CH 2) 2 m

NH2 (XVII)

in which R, R ', R ", identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, preferably CH 3, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy, or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C3-C8, preferably C3-C6; m and n are integers dependent on molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R ', R ", identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical, A represents a C3 alkylene radical and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound The compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone." According to a second possibility, R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy radical. C4 or hydroxyl, at least one of the radicals R or R "is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C3 alkylene radical The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1. and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. In this category A number of compounds include, among others, Belsil®ADM 652, sold by Wacker. According to a third possibility, R, R ", different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R, R" is an alkoxy radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A represents a radical. C3 alkylene. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. More particularly, there may be mentioned F1uidWR® 1300 product, marketed by Wacker.

According to a fourth possibility, R, R "represent a hydroxyl radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A is a C4-C8 alkylene radical, preferably a C4 radical, and m and n are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000.

A product of this type is especially marketed under the name DC28299 by Dow Corning.

It should be noted that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 μl of a 0.5% solution are injected by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of the formula (XVI) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the following formula (XVIII): CH 3 CH 3 (CH 3) 3 SiO SiO SiO Si (CH 3) 3 1 Wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (XVI). Embedded image CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH m (iH 2) 2 NH 2 (XVIII)

Such compounds are described for example in EP 95238; a compound of formula (XVIII) is for example sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

(b) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (XIX): embedded image in which R 3 represents a monovalent C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon radical, and especially a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl; R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical; Q- is a halide ion, especially chloride; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8; s represents a mean statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular 20 to 50. Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US 4185087. A compound in this class is that sold by Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56 ". c) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (XX): ## STR2 ##

Wherein R7, which are the same or different, represent a monovalent or monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical; or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy radical connected to Si by an SiC bond; R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6- NHCOR7; X - is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100; These silicones are for example described in the application EP-A-0530974. D) the amino silicones of formula (XXI): R 1 R 3 Si Si R 5 1 R 4 O x 3 NH (C H H 2 m) NH 2 () OI) in which: R 1 R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and wherein x is chosen so that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g. The most preferred silicone is amodimethicone. In case of presence, the composition according to the invention may comprise preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight of silicone (s) preferably amino (s), and more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight of silicone (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise one or more cosmetic additives commonly used in the art, such as, for example, antioxidants, organic ultraviolet filters, inorganic ultra-violet filters, softeners, agents and the like. antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollient agents, plasticizers, mineral fillers, clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, fixing or non-fixing polymers, proteins, vitamins , and mixtures of these compounds. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

When present, these additives can represent an amount ranging from 0.001 to 90% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 50% by weight, better still from 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. invention. The composition according to the invention generally comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents. As organic solvent, mention may be made of lower (C 1 -C 4) alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3-C4 ketones such as acetone; C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures. When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents, these may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition . The pH of the composition according to the invention, if it is aqueous, is generally from 1.5 to 11, and preferably from 2 to 6.5, more preferably from 2 to 5. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of agent (s) acidifying (s) or basifying (s), usually used in dyeing keratin fibers or even using conventional buffer system (s).

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulphonic acids and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid. tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid.

Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, by way of example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and following formula (XXII)

In which: W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group. The composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be a lotion, a gel, a spray, a mousse, or a cream.

The composition according to the invention may be a shampoo, a shampoo, a hair shaping product, a coloring product, a decolorization product, a permanent product.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an after-shampoo. It can be used as an anti-microbial and antifungal agent of a cosmetic composition or be used directly to treat keratinous substances against the proliferation of microbes, yeasts, fungi, and molds in a cosmetic composition, and the undesirable cosmetic effects associated with a cosmetic composition. such proliferation, such as the appearance or development of dandruff, redness, acne, blackheads, cysts, blackheads. It can especially be used as disinfectant, anti-dandruff active, skin cleansing agent. The composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not rinsed. By "keratinous material" is meant the skin, the scalp and the integuments such as the hair. Preferably, the keratin materials treated in the context of the invention are the scalp and the hair. Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment method, which comprises the application to the skin or the hair and the scalp of a composition according to the invention as described above, in particular for a sufficiently long time to eliminate or reduce the presence of microbes. For example, the composition may be left on the skin or hair and scalp for 2 to 15 minutes. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

Non-rinsed compositions according to the invention The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of each composition. The weight ratio of the amount of zinc salt to the amount of 1,2-octanediol (R denoted) and the weight ratio of the amount of zinc element to the amount of 1,2-octanediol (noted R ') were calculated for each composition.

Composition A Zinc gluconate 0.5 1,2-octanediol 0.4 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Water q.s. 100 pH = 4 R 1.25 R '0.18 Composition B Zinc gluconate 1,5 1,2-octanediol 0.4 Water q.s. 100 pH = 4 R 3.75 R '0.55 Composition C Zinc chloride 1 1,2-octanediol 0.4 Citric acid q.s. pH = 4 Water q.s. 100 R 2,5 39 5 R '1,2 Composition D Zinc sulphate 1,5 heptahydrate 1,2-octanediol 0.4 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Citric acid q.s. pH = 4 Water q.s. 100 R 3.75 R '0.85 Composition E Zinc gluconate 0.5 1,2-octanediol 0.2 Benzoic acid 0.2 Water q.s. 100 pH = 4 R 2.5 R '0.36 Composition F Zinc gluconate 0.5 1,2-octanediol 0.4 Water q.s. 100 pH = 4 R 1.25 R '0.18 With: zinc gluconate sold under the name Givobio G Zn (100% by weight of MA) by the company SEPPIC, 1,2-octanediol sold under the name denomination Dermosoft octiol by the company Dr. Straetmans, - sodium benzoate under the name Purox S by the company DSM, - zinc chloride sold under the name Zinc Chloride (100% ai) by the company Honeywell, - zinc sulphate heptahydrate sold under the name Zinc sulphate heptahydrate (100% by weight of MA) by Merck, and benzoic acid under the name Purox B by the company DSM. All these compositions have satisfactory bacteriological protection. In addition, it has been observed that compositions F and A according to the invention have satisfactory antifungal protection.

Comparative: The following compositions were prepared. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of each composition. Compositions Comparative Comparative Invention Comparative Gluconate 0.5 0.5 0.5 zinc 1,2- 0,4 - - octanediol Benzoate - - - sodium Polyamino - 0.6 - propyl biguanide Ethanol - - 5 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. The microbiological study of each of these compositions was carried out in two stages: the formulas are artificially contaminated with microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts, molds); the rate of decontamination of the formulas is monitored by means of a follow-up; number of germs viable over time.

Comparison of Compositions F and G Polyaminopropyl biguanide is a homopolymer of molecular weight (MW) equal to 2100 g / mol. The biguanide motif, which has a bactericidal activity, has a molecular weight of 219.5 g / mol, which represents 2.7 × 10 -3 mol in the formula G. - 1,2-octanediol has a MW of 146 g / mol ; it is therefore introduced at 2.7 × 10 -3 mol in the composition F. At an equal molar amount, the composition G containing the polyaminopropyl biguanide has antifungal protection lower than that of the composition F according to the invention containing 1, 2-octanediol.

Comparison of compositions F and H: - The compositions F and H contain the same amount of zinc salt. Composition F contains 0.4 g of 1,2-octanediol, while composition H contains 5 g of ethanol, a compound known for its antibacterial properties. Ethanol, introduced in a quantity 10 times greater than that of 1,2-octanediol, does not make it possible to provide satisfactory antifungal protection.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more zinc salts and - 1,2-octanediol, the weight ratio of the amount of zinc salt to the amount of 1,2-octanediol being strictly greater than 1, and the content of 1 , 2-octanediol being strictly less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of the amount of zinc salt to the amount of 1,2-octanediol varies from 1.1 to 100, in particular from 1.1 to 50 and even more preferably from 1.1 to 10. 3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the concentration of 1,2-octanediol ranges from 0.001 to 0.49% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.45% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 0.45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc salt or salts are chosen from water-soluble inorganic salts, organic, and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc salt or salts are chosen from inorganic salts and in particular from zinc sulphate and zinc chloride. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the zinc salt or salts are chosen from organic salts and in particular from zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc phenosulfate, zinc citrate, zinc salicylate and its derivatives corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof: (R1) P COO Zn2 + OH -In formula in which: n = 2, p is 0, 1.2 or 3; R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl group (for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or n-butyl); a linear or branched C1-C18 hydroxyalkyl group; a C 2 -C 18 acyl group (for example acetyl); a COR2 or OCOR2 group, where R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl group. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and 6, characterized in that the zinc salt is zinc lactate or zinc gluconate. 8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the zinc salt is zinc gluconate. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of salt (s) of zinc ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 6.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more preserving agents chosen from sodium benzoate, benzoic acid and phenoxyethanol, and their mixtures, preferably at a concentration ranging from , 01 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric, nonionic or cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more fatty alcohols and / or one or more esters of fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid, and / or one or more polymers. cationic non-silicone, and / or one or more silicones, preferably amino. 13. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 12 is applied to keratin materials, with or without subsequent rinsing. 14. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 as an antimicrobial and antifungal agent.