FR3143352A1 - Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, a specific cationic polymer, and at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles - Google Patents

Abstract

Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, a specific cationic polymer, and at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of composition, - at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, and - at least 0.01% by weight of hydrophobic silica airgel particles, said composition having a pH between 5 and 7, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials using this composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, a specific cationic polymer, and at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

The present invention relates to an aqueous transparent cosmetic composition, comprising ascorbic acid, at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, and at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

In cosmetic applications, it is common to add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as a skin regenerating active ingredient by stimulating the synthesis of collagen responsible for skin firmness, or as a depigmenting agent, because this vitamin reduces the production of melanin responsible for brown spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

However, when ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium (such as emulsions or serums) at high levels (i.e. for example greater than 5% by weight, preferably greater than 10% by weight), its formulation is difficult to achieve, because it destabilizes and changes color drastically. This color change can go as far as a brown coloration, which is prohibitive for the consumer. In addition, these aqueous compositions of the serum or gelled solution type have the disadvantage of being sticky when spread on the skin, which is not satisfactory for the consumer.

This is why there are aqueous compositions on the market such as serums or solutions, which include ascorbic acid in powder form to be dissolved extemporaneously. The disadvantage of this type of product is that vitamin C ends up degrading in the aqueous medium. These products are thus losing their appeal because consumers prefer, for reasons of practicality, serums without prior manipulation, with the guarantee of color stability and without chemical degradation.

There is therefore a need for an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid which is stable, i.e. which remains the same colour as originally (generally white) and of the same texture, and which does not degrade the active ingredient, and which has sensory properties which are satisfactory for the user, in particular an acceptable stickiness when applying the composition to the skin.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that particular hydrophobic silica aerogel particles make it possible to obtain compositions comprising at least one specific cationic polymer, and ascorbic acid present in particular at a high content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which have sensory properties during application, in particular an acceptable tack when spreading on keratin materials such as the skin, and in particular by being stable over time and temperature.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

- at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition,

- at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, and

- at least 0.01% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles,

said composition having a pH between 5 and 7.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous solution, more preferably an aqueous solution with a slightly gelled appearance. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is single-phase. This composition may be called a “serum”. By “serum” is meant a composition with a fluid texture, a slightly gelled appearance, runny, and preferably concentrated in ascorbic acid (i.e. preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, and more particularly at least 10% by weight of ascorbic acid).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. By “substantially free of surfactants” is meant that the composition according to the invention has a surfactant content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight. The surfactants may preferably be peptizers, the concentration of which is between 0.1 and 2% by weight; they allow the solubilization of a small amount of oil(s) or lipophilic compounds or active ingredients or perfume(s) (i.e. concentration of perfume(s) or oil(s) or lipophilic compound(s) of between 0.05% and 2%).

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises water, which constitutes the aqueous phase.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and/or natural thermal or mineral water.

The composition preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition preferably comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 85%.

The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C.

Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is selected from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

Among the alcohols, mention may be made of _C1 - _C10 alcohols, more preferably _C1 - _C5 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment, the composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of water-soluble organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 2% to 30% by weight, even more particularly from 5 to 20% by weight.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a polyol, preferably caprylyl glycol, at a content of 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly at a content of 0.2% to 1.5% by weight.

Ascorbic acid

Ascorbic acid for the purposes of the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the structure of formula (A):

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition (i.e. at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition), preferably at least 7% by weight, and more preferably at least 10% by weight.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 15% by weight.

As shown in the examples, surprisingly, the compositions according to the invention are stable, comprise in particular 12% by weight of ascorbic acid, and have good chemical stability after 1 week at 45°C for 0.4% of polyquaternium-67 and 0.1% of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, while having a good tackiness property during application. This tackiness property during application is acceptable because, rated on a tackiness scale (evaluation 2 minutes and 30 seconds after application) ranging from 1 (not tacky) to 5 (very tacky), the compositions according to the invention have a score of 1.5, and this score is lower than the comparative composition comprising 12% by weight of ascorbic acid in water (rated 1.9).

Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.01% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles relative to the total weight of the composition (i.e. at a content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles relative to the total weight of the composition).

Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials, the first of which were made by Kristler in 1932.

The term "hydrophobic silica" means both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles totally or partially coated with hydrophobic silica.

The hydrophobic silicas that can be used are preferably amorphous and of pyrogenic origin. They are preferably in powder form.

Amorphous hydrophobic silicas of pyrogenic origin are generally obtained from hydrophilic pyrogenic silicas. The latter are obtained by continuous flame pyrolysis at 1000 °C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic, for example, by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes. Hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas by, among other things, a lower silanol group density and a lower water vapour adsorption.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise hydrophobically treated pyrogenic silica aerogel particles.

The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane, or dimethylsilyloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of dimethyldichlorosilane.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

It will also be possible to use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups, namely trimethylsiloxylated silica particles.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention preferably have a size, expressed as average diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 µm, and preferably ranging from 1 µm to 30 µm, preferably from 2 µm to 25 µm, better still from 2 µm to 20 µm and even better still from 2 µm to 15 µm.

Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 microns to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 m2/g to 800 m2/g.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 m2/g to 800 m2/g.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200, as well as the references Airlica TL3 and Airlica TL5 marketed by the company Toyukama.

A composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.01% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, relative to its total weight.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from those available from the company Dow Corning under the trade name DOWSIL® VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES (INCI name SILICA SILYLATE) or from the company Cabot under the trade name FINE PARTICLE AEROGEL TLD201 (INCI name SILICA SILYLATE).

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymer selected from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

The cationic polymer according to the invention is chosen from cationic galactomannan gums (cationic guars) and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain (preferably polyquaternium-67).

In fact, these polymers are more favorable in particular to the stability of the compositions.

The cationic polymer according to the invention may be a cationic galactomannan gum (cationic guar). The term “ cationic galactomannan gum ” means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups.

Galactomannans are polysaccharides composed mainly of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by a 1-4-glycosidic bond and the galactose branching occurs by means of a 1-6 bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of the galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) carries three free hydroxyl groups available for chemical reaction. Galactomannans are commonly found in the endosperm of legume seeds such as guar or carob.

The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5x10 ⁶ , and preferably between about 10 ³ and 3x10 ⁶ .

The cationic galactomannan gums which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic groups.
trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, we can particularly cite the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums, modified by cationic groups are products already known in themselves and are for example described in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan ^® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance ^® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

The cationic polymer according to the invention may alternatively be a cationic cellulose polymer modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. For the purposes of the present invention, a "cationic cellulose polymer" designates any non-silicone cellulose polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and/or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

By “ cellulosic ” polymer, we mean according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues united by β-1,4 bonds. The cellulosic polymer can be associative, that is to say have in its structure at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain.

The cationic cellulosic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) of between 5000 and 5.10 ⁶ approximately, preferably of between 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic celluloses, we can cite more particularly cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

Among the quaternized celluloses, mention may be made in particular of quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, we can cite the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which:

- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide;

- R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN+–, Q’- in which R’a, R’b, R’c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C30 alkyl, and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl;

- n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

Even better, R may be a group selected from –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- and –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- , preferably a group –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- .

Even better, R' can be a group –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- .

The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

We can notably cite the polymers with INCI names:

- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.

Hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may also be mentioned, in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)3N+– and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+–. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X from AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL may be mentioned.

More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67).

It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain; preferably from guar gums modified by a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide.

and preferably among Guar Hydroxypropyl Tri-Methyl Ammonium Chloride and hydroxyethyl celluloses reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name polyquaternium-67).

The total active material content of the cationic polymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

pH of the composition

The composition according to the invention has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

The base is used in particular to increase the final pH of the composition between 5.0 and 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

The base can be chosen from mineral bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide. Indeed, these bases are more advantageous than nitrogenous bases, such as triethanolamine, on the stabilization of the color (i.e. less yellowing).

Preferably, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a base:ascorbic acid weight ratio ranging from 0.2 to 0.3.

The composition may also include one or more additive(s) conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as active ingredients, sequestrants, preservatives or even perfumes.

Preferably, among the active ingredients that can be used, adenosine, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, hayuronic acid, niacinamide (Vitamin B3), tocopherol or even perfumes are preferred.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant.

Among the preferred sequestrants, mention may be made of salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound of formula (B):
(II)

Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate.

Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30 ^® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the salt content of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid introduced into the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid can be introduced into the composition dissolved in water, in particular in a content ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 35% to 40% by weight in water.

One such compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, at 37% by weight in water.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one preservative.

Preferred preservatives include hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 0.8% by weight of preservative(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

The expressions “between … and …” and “ranging from … to …” or “at least ..” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

EXAMPLES

In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated. Unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w/w).

Example 1: Compositions according to the invention

Compositions A to C according to the invention below are prepared according to the following protocol:

- In a first beaker: Introduce the water (around 60°C) and add in the following order the ingredients of phase A: caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, hydroxyacetophenone.

- Once everything has dissolved, and the phase is clear, without crystals, leave to cool to room temperature.

- Add the previous phase: polyquaternium-67 with medium and long agitation to ensure efficient deployment of the polymer.

- Add the ascorbic acid, sprinkling it on the top preparation.

- Add the soda diluted in water, adjusting the pH between 5.8 to 6

- If necessary, introduce, while stirring, the SILICA SILYLATE (and) WATER (and) SILICA or the SILICA .

Composition A according to the invention is stable for one week at 45°C.

The reduction in the stickiness of fresh formulas is measured upon application: evaluation 2 minutes and 30 seconds after application of the stickiness by a panel of 10 experts trained to reproduce a standardized evaluation gesture including the terminal formulas (evaluation scale from 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 very sticky).

The protocol for evaluating the tights is as follows: 50µl of product are applied to the back of a hand covered with a membrane that mimics the characteristics of the skin. With three fingers of the other hand (index, middle and ring fingers), 15 turns are performed in 15 seconds.

The evaluation of the tights is done after 2 minutes and 30 seconds with the applicator fingers, by tactile evaluation, tapping twice.

The skin adheres or not according to a rating between 1 and 5 (according to the evaluation scale of 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 very sticky). The evaluations are carried out by a panel of a minimum of 10 expert people.

Rinse your fingers between each product with a cloth dampened with warm water.

An improvement in the tights compared to a reference product, in this case a reference composition not including SILICA SILYLATE, is considered when an improvement of at least 9% in the rating is observed.

The stickiness rating after 2 minutes and 30 seconds after application of composition A according to the invention, comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, SILICA SILYLATE, is significantly reduced compared to composition B outside the invention not comprising SILICA SILYLATE from 1.9 to 1.5 (greater than 9%).

Thus, surprisingly, the compositions according to the invention comprising 0.10% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, in particular SILICA SILYLATE, significantly reduce the stickiness during the application of an aqueous composition comprising a high content of ascorbic acid (12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), and a cationic polymer such as polyquaternium-67, in comparison with a composition not comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention composition B.

Composition A according to the invention has a good adhesive property when applied to the skin.

Claims (13)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
- at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, and
- at least 0.01% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles,
said composition having a pH between 5 and 7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50 to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 85%. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen from alcohols, polyols and their mixtures; preferably chosen from C ₁ -C ₁₀ alcohols, more preferably C ₁ -C ₅ alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol, and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,3-propanediol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and their mixtures. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least 10% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferentially from 10% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain; preferably from guar gums modified by a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide.

and preferably among Guar Hydroxypropyl Tri-Methyl Ammonium Chloride and hydroxyethyl celluloses reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name polyquaternium-67). Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight of active cationic polymer material, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.3% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name silica silylate). Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in an active material content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises at least one base, preferably the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and more preferably sodium hydroxide. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one additive chosen from active ingredients, sequestrants, preservatives and perfumes, preferably it comprises at least one sequestrant chosen from salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid and/or at least one preservative, preferably chosen from hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and their mixtures. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises at least one preservative chosen from hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and their mixtures. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12.