HK1176827A - Fixiereinlage - Google Patents

Description

Adhesive interlining

Technical Field

The invention relates to a bonding pad, in particular to a bonding pad which can be used as a precursor bonding pad in the textile industry.

Background

The interlining is an invisible skeleton of the garment that ensures a snug fit and comfort to wear. Depending on the application, the adhesive backing helps to improve processability, enhance performance and stabilize the garment.

The precursor adhesive interlining may be used to reinforce the front panel of the garment over a large area. It consists of a substrate layer and an adhesive coating coated thereon with a hot melt adhesive. One side of the coating is applied to the front panel of the garment during the garment production process to stabilize the front panel of the garment and ensure shape retention.

In the case of men's suits, in particular western-style clothes and leisure tops, the requirements for adhesive interlinings are numerous and very demanding, which particularly relates to adhesive interlining base layers that have to meet various requirements.

The main requirements for the substrate layer are: comfortable fabric hand feel, excellent shape retention and reinforcement properties, light weight, high loft, and high elasticity primarily in the weft direction. A comfortable textile hand is a basic requirement for advanced garment processing.

Good adhesive interlining reinforcement properties are particularly important for men's clothing, since it is usually a front garment such as a suit that is concerned. Precisely because of the large size of men's clothing, it must be sufficiently stiff and smooth and dimensionally stable to ensure a correct appearance of the clothing.

High loft adhesive interlinings are particularly important for men's clothing in that the internal structure of the suit may include up to 30 panels and the various components of the structure must not be exposed on the outer shell of the garment. The adhesive backing must therefore have a high degree of loftiness in order to reliably prevent these marks on the outside.

Modern fabrics are often elastic in at least one direction, and often even bi-directional, which provides a garment with high wearing comfort and a snug fit. The high elasticity of the interlining allows the interlining to conform to as much of the face fabric as possible.

As the face fabric becomes lighter and lighter, it is next important to reduce the weight of the adhesive backing. In addition, the lower weight means less material and therefore lower costs for the adhesive backing.

Woven or knitted fabrics are almost exclusively used today as an adhesive backing substrate material in men's clothing. These woven and knit fabrics are composed primarily or exclusively of textured polyester filaments arranged in the warp and weft yarns. Both these woven and knitted fabrics have good reinforcement properties, high bulk and good elasticity due to the crimp of the textured yarns and the corresponding weave structure. The base layers are coated with the adhesive by the customary coating methods, in particular by the double-dot coating method (e.g. the drop-on-dot method).

The weight of woven and knitted fabrics is usually 50g/m²-100g/m²The hand feel of these products is accepted by the market. However, since the textured filaments are used, there are no fiber ends on the surface of the fusible interlining which can give a soft textile hand, and therefore, these woven and knitted fabrics have a monotonous hand and give artificial feeling.

Attempts have been made to eliminate these hand defects in various ways, as described in DE 19644111 or DE 19904265, but these are not really marketed.

A disadvantage of woven and knitted fabrics is also that the textured polyester yarns used are made from Virgin polyethersulfone (Virgin PES) chips and therefore cannot be recycled as a sustainable resource protection measure. The cost disadvantage of using virgin polyethersulfone materials will also arise in the future.

These weaving and knitting methods also require a great deal of labor as a method of producing a fabric material.

In contrast, the production of a bonded backing on the basis of a nonwoven fabric greatly increases the efficiency and reduces the labor costs. However, up to now no adhesive interlining has been proposed which uses a nonwoven fabric made of fibers, rather than yarns, as a base layer for reinforcing the front panel of a garment, in particular a man's garment.

Nonwoven substrate layers are usually produced in a hot-calendering process (point-seal ═ PS process) and are used primarily for small parts such as hems and hems, as waist of trousers or for stiffening collars and cuffs.

DE102009010995a1, EP 2207926B 1 and WO 2009/059801a1 disclose a further method for producing a coherent interlining on the basis of a nonwoven. According to the adhesive interlining described in these documents, the nonwoven binder and the adhesive are applied in a single operation, a binder/polymer particle dispersion is applied to a substrate layer based on a loose nonwoven or a fibrous web, the polymer particles being the adhesive. The dispersion is designed such that the polymer particles remain on the surface of the web and the binder penetrates into the surface of the web. The dispersion is applied followed by a heat treatment, drying the fibrous web, crosslinking the binder and sintering the polymer particles of the adhesive. According to these documents, the dispersion is suitably applied to the substrate layer in a grid-like dot pattern. The bonded liners produced by the above process have a soft textile hand and improved elasticity. Owing to the use of a nonwoven as substrate layer, it can also be produced in a simple and cost-effective manner.

Disclosure of Invention

The object of the invention is to improve a fusible interlining of the type mentioned above such that, in addition to a high degree of bulk and a pleasant feel, the resilience and reversible elasticity are improved and, moreover, the interlining can be produced in a simple and cost-effective manner.

This task is solved by an adhesive interlining having the features of claim 1. The dependent claims describe advantageous embodiments of the invention.

According to the invention, a fusible interlining, which can be used as a precursor fusible interlining in particular in the textile industry, has a substrate layer consisting of a loosely bonded and water-jet structured fiber web or nonwoven. The substrate layer is joined only in selected areas by means of an adhesive and is coated on at least one side with an adhesive. According to the invention, the substrate layer is structured in such a way that it has a network-like pore structure.

It has surprisingly been found that the structuring treatment with water jets produces a network-like pore structure in the substrate layer and the bonding thereof only locally with the aid of an adhesive, which gives the adhesive interlining a high reversible elasticity and a high resilience even in the region associated with the precursor adhesive interlining.

According to the invention, the adhesive backing is made of a loosely bonded fiber web or nonwoven. The invention therefore also encompasses all fibrous webs whose fibres have as high a mobility as possible after treatment with a consolidation method applied with different strengths, as is usually the case for example with hydroentangled nonwovens, even when high water pressures are used. These are included in the present invention.

The term "structuring" and "water jet structuring" as used herein refer to the rearrangement of the fibers in a fiber web by water jets, thereby creating dot-shaped openings. However, in order to achieve the effects described in the present invention, the holes need not be completely free of fibers.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pore structure is produced by means of a structured screen by means of a hydroentangling process. Hydroentanglement is known and is used primarily for the reinforcement, in particular for the pre-reinforcement of nonwovens. The water pressure for consolidation or pre-consolidation is typically about 150 bar or less than 50 bar. Practice has shown that the water pressure for producing the pore structure of the fiber web or loosely bonded nonwoven according to the invention is in the range of 60 to 120 bar.

The water jets acting on the loosely bonded web or nonwoven will obviously press a part of the fibres sideways and thus create an exceptionally bulky perforated structure in the substrate layer. The bulk is 40% higher than the equivalent weight of woven or knitted fabric for the same total weight of the interlining.

It is particularly suitable for structuring (creating pore structures) in the course of the pre-consolidation of the fibrous web or nonwoven, which ensures a particularly efficient process.

Structuring the fibrous web generally requires more energy and higher water pressure than, for example, the hydroentanglement process used only for the pre-consolidation of the fibrous web and the process described in DE102009010995a1, but at the same time also leads to a stronger pre-consolidation of the fibrous web, which is beneficial for the abrasion resistance of the nonwoven surface.

Due to the pre-consolidation at the same time as the structuring process, the web is sufficiently stable even if the perforation is carried out immediately after the water jet treatment, without it having to be finally consolidated immediately by printing. Instead, the three-dimensionally structured fibrous web can be dried and wound onto a roll and then coated and finally consolidated in a separate second step according to all customary methods for coating interlining. This means that the adhesive can also be printed in a subsequent step and the adhesive polymer applied according to the 3P method or the two-point method, which is particularly suitable for precursor interlinings.

Advantageously, the fiber web is pre-consolidated and structured by hydroentangling, first by spraying water jets from the first side over a first screen, for example over a 100 mesh screen. This allows a first pre-consolidation of the fibre web, which also gives a uniform and smooth surface. After the first pre-engagement, the hole structure is produced by spraying water jets, for example through a 20-mesh screen, on the second side of the pre-consolidated web on the opposite side.

As screen mesh, a mesh screen known from the field of high-pressure energy water jet treatment can be used, wherein a screen cylinder of a screen mesh structure is produced by the mesh screen. The thickness and cross-section of the screen wires, the material of the screen wires and the bends of the fabric structure that can be achieved together determine the bulk of the nonwoven.

In order to produce the adhesive interlining according to the invention, it is advantageous to use screen wires with a diameter of 0.3mm to 1.0mm for the warp direction and screen wires with a diameter of 0.2mm to 1.5mm for the weft direction. Round and rectangular screen wires made of VA-steel, bronze, PET or other plastics can be used.

However, instead of a mesh screen, other mesh structures or a stripper having a certain topography and water permeability may be used for the structuring process, achieving a similar effect as with the use of a mesh screen.

The desired effect is achieved by a specific hole geometry of the screen or template, which may for example be rectangular or diamond shaped without loss of generality. The rectangular machine/cross direction orientation may provide different extensibility of the pre-consolidated web.

The transverse rectangles may produce a higher longitudinal stretchability than the upright rectangles, and the rhomboid stretchability may be more uniform.

The fibers used to produce the web or nonwoven may be laid in a well-known manner. Applicable correlation methods are known and are described in many ways in the patent literature. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fibers are laid down in the machine direction and in the cross direction (lapping). This allows the final joined substrate material to achieve a great degree of elasticity when mechanically stretched.

The ratio of the weight per unit area of the longitudinally laid fibers to the weight per unit area of the transversely laid fibers is advantageously between 2: 1 and 1: 4 or 100% transverse laying, so that a reversible longitudinal stretchability of more than 20% is ensured.

Additional effects can be achieved in the finished material by the multilayer structure of the fiber web:

a) the higher weight of the transverse layers reduces the reorientation of the fibres in the longitudinal direction.

b) The use of stiffer-to-bend fibers (thicker PES (polyester) fibers and/or PA66 (polyamide 66) fibers) in the transverse layer may improve the transverse resilience in the interlining.

c) Bicomponent fibers with hot melt properties in the facing web can be used to close, deep draw the interlining.

It is advantageous to use polyester fibers as the fiber material, and it is particularly preferable to use fibers made of recyclable PES (r-PET (recyclable polyethylene terephthalate)), and it is also possible to use a mixture of recyclable PES with other fibers, and the mixing ratio can be arbitrarily selected.

Fibers having a high fiber linear density of up to 11dtex are particularly suitable for use in the adhesive interlining of the present invention. The use of relatively coarse fibers also allows the nonwoven fabric of the invention to achieve very high resilience.

According to the invention, the adhesive and/or glue is not applied to a large area, but only to the substrate layer in selected surface areas, which ensures softness and resilience of the material. Advantageously, the adhesive and/or glue is applied to the substrate layer in a dot pattern. The dot patterns may be regularly or irregularly distributed. The dot-coated binder can greatly increase the internal reversible strength of the structured nonwoven, but at the same time can retain a portion of freely movable, unbonded fibers (regions) in the fiber composite. It is also possible to prevent fiber slippage in the structured nonwoven by the spot-shaped adhesive, as a result of which the structured nonwoven will acquire a high reversible elasticity. The required cocoa stretchability of the elastic binder matrix is 10% in the warp direction and 20% in the weft direction, which results in a good reversible shape recovery when stretched.

The present invention is not limited to the dot mode. The mixture of binder and thermoplastic polymer may be applied in any geometric shape, for example in the shape of a linear, striped, reticulated or grid-like structure, dots having a similar geometric shape, such as rectangular, diamond, or oval.

The structured nonwoven fabric of the present invention has excellent bulk and shape recovery, thus saving 20-30% of material weight compared to woven or knitted fabrics used today. 60g/m of the invention²The perforated non-woven fabric can replace 73g/m made of deformed polyester yarn²Woven or knitted fabrics.

A particular advantage of the invention is that the manner of applying the aperture construction can now also be at 15g/m²～115g/m²Producing a soft nonwoven substrate layer over a wide grammage range, the nonwoven having a high basis weight does not become paper-likeThe sample was stiff.

Since the present invention relates to a fiber-based product, the hand feel problem of woven and knitted fabric precursor interlinings is also solved, since the interlinings according to the present invention have fibers on the surface.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the binder and the adhesive can be applied in one process step, for example as described in DE102009010995a1, and the aqueous dispersion of the binder and the thermoplastic polymer in particulate form can be applied to the fibrous web in a grid-like dot pattern in a known manner. The polymer particles are adhesives. The dispersion is configured such that the polymer particles remain on the surface of the web and the binder penetrates into the surface of the web. The dispersion is applied followed by a heat treatment, drying the fibrous web, crosslinking the binder and sintering the polymer particles of the adhesive.

The type of dryer used is very important for the drying of the lining cloth. Belt dryers employing the through-air technique are more suitable than drum dryers and suction drum dryers, since the latter result in a smooth product. As high a temperature as possible (> 190 ℃) can stabilize the loft and allow the finished material to be heat set.

For applications requiring a high separating force, for example when used as a precursor adhesive backing, the adhesive can be applied according to the known double dot coating method. If a double-point coating method is used, the lower adhesive points, which are usually composed of a binder and act as a non-return, are applied to the web in a first process step, and the upper adhesive points, which form the actual adhesive, are then applied to the lower adhesive points in a second process step.

In order to facilitate the punctiform consolidation of the nonwoven with the pore structure and to increase the wear on the side facing away from the adhesive, the required application amount at the lower adhesive point can be higher than in the case of the conventional double-point coating. If the amount of adhesive applied is large enough to ensure that the adhesive at least partially penetrates the web or loosely joined nonwoven, the point-wise joining of the substrate layers can be achieved only by the lower adhesive points, without the need for additional application of adhesive. The depth of penetration of the adhesive perpendicular to the surface should be greater than 30%, particularly preferably greater than 40% and particularly preferably greater than 70%, to ensure sufficient reversible elasticity and resilience.

The adhesive interlining according to the invention is particularly suitable for use as a precursor adhesive interlining in the textile industry, particularly in high-grade clothing, for example men's clothing.

Drawings

The invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings and examples.

The related drawings are as follows:

FIG. 1 is a schematic top view of a perforated adhesive backing according to the present invention;

FIGS. 2, 3 force-stretch plots versus modulus of elasticity for a bonded and unstructured bonded liners of the present invention when stretched in the machine and cross directions;

FIGS. 4, 5 force-stretch plots versus modulus of elasticity for machine direction and cross direction stretch for two machine direction/cross direction lapped liners according to the present invention;

FIGS. 6, 7 force-stretch plots versus modulus of elasticity for machine direction and cross direction stretch for two machine direction/cross direction lapped liners according to the present invention;

Detailed Description

Example (b):

example 1(PDB 3cc47)

Will be from 30g/m²PES 1.7dtex/38mm (r-PET-recoverable PES) fiber composition, at 10g/m²Longitudinal web and 20g/m2 transverse web formThe web laid in the form of a web is fed into a pre-web unit. Low pressure water jets (pressure less than 50 bar) were used and slightly pre-consolidated with a 100 mesh screen. A20-mesh bronze screen (diameter of warp yarn: 0.63mmx0.33mm// diameter of cellosilk: 0.51mm// mesh number cm) was mounted on the 2 nd drum of the pre-screening unit]: 9.5/8.5// thickness: 1.09 mm). The structuring treatment is carried out with a medium-pressure water jet (less than 80 bar). Then the wet fiber web was printed with 15g/m on-line²(dry) binder-polymer particle dispersion comprising:

dot printing (52 dots/cm)²). In a subsequent drying step the binder dots are connected to the fibres to form a web and the polymer particles are sintered.

The adhesive backing of the invention obtained has the following characteristics:

-weight per unit area: 45g/m²

Longitudinal/transverse modulus of elasticity: the longitudinal stretchability was 10% for a 6.9N force and 20% for a 1.5N force.

-reforming performance: permanent stretchability at 15 cycles: the machine direction was 3.1% for 10% and 5.8% for 20%.

Rebound resilience in warp and weft directions similar to 60g/m made with dtex 75f48 textured filaments²A fabric lining cloth.

The separation force achieved at 2.5 bar and 12 seconds after setting to PES/BW fabric is:

initial temperature of 120 ℃: 15.6N/5cm//40 ℃ wash 12.6N/5cm// CR 11.9N/5cm

Initial temperature of 140 ℃: 17.3N/5cm//40 ℃ wash 13.8N/5cm//60 ℃ wash 10.6N/5cm

Example 2

Composed of 100% PES 1,7dtex/38mm (r-PET) fibers at 10g/m²A web laid in the form of a longitudinal web and composed of 1.7dtex/38mm (r-PET) for 50% PES, 3.3dtex/60mm (r-PET) for 30% PES and 6.7dtex/60mm for 20% PES, at 15g/m²The laid fiber web in the form of a transverse fiber web is fed into a pre-web unit. Low pressure water jets (pressure less than 50 bar) were used and slightly pre-consolidated with a 100 mesh screen. A 20-mesh bronze screen (diameter of warp yarn: 0.63mm x0.33mm// diameter of cellosilk: 0.51mm// Meshxcount [ cm ] is arranged on the 2 nd rotary drum of the pre-screening unit]: 9.5/8.5// thickness: 1.09 mm). The structuring treatment is carried out with a medium-pressure water jet (less than 80 bar). The wet fibrous web was dried and pre-shaped in a 3-belt dryer with a through-air flow guide at a temperature of 180 ℃ and then in a 2 nd operation step this loosely bonded 20-mesh structured nonwoven was wetted with water in a soft tissue with a moisture pick-up of 100% and then in spots (72 spots/cm)²) Stamp-on 14g/m²(dry coating) binder polymer particle dispersion, which in a subsequent drying step allows the binder dots to link to the fibres to form a web and the polymer particles to sinter.

The obtained adhesive interlining had the following characteristics:

-weight: 39g/m²

Longitudinal/transverse modulus of elasticity: the longitudinal stretchability was 10% for a 5.8N force and 20% for a 1.9N force.

-reforming performance: permanent stretchability at 15 cycles: 10% in the machine direction 2.9% and 20% in the cross direction 4.9%.

Rebound resilience in warp and weft directions similar to 60g/m made with dtex 75f48 textured filaments²The fabric lining cloth has high transverse resilience.

The separation force achieved at 2.5 bar and 12 seconds after setting to PES/BW fabric is:

initial temperature of 120 ℃: 13.3/5cm//40 ℃ wash 11.9N/5cm// CR 11.6N/5cm

Initial temperature of 140 ℃: 15.7N/5cm//40 ℃ wash 13.6N/5cm//60 ℃ wash 11.2N/5cm

Example 3

In step 2, a 20-mesh structured spunlaced nonwoven of 100% 1.9dtex PES fibers is consolidated at 35g/m²Printed with a dispersion of 9g/m of a printing paste component similar to that described in EP 1162304B 1²Then coating 13g/m of adhesive polymer with the particle size distribution of 80-200 mu². The two-layer adhesive coating is sintered in a dryer in a subsequent drying step. The obtained adhesive interlining had the following characteristics:

-weight: 57g/m²

Longitudinal/transverse modulus of elasticity: the longitudinal stretchability was 10% for a 9.7N force and 20% for a 3.1N force.

-reforming performance: permanent stretchability at 15 cycles: the machine direction was 3.6% for 10% and 5.6% for 20%.

The resilience in the warp and weft directions was similar to that of a 70g/m2 fabric backing made with dtex 75f48 textured filaments.

The separation force achieved after setting to a PES/BW fabric at 2.5 bar and 12 seconds is

Initial temperature of 120 ℃: 17.4/5cm//40 ℃ wash 17.0N/5cm// CR 16.2N/5cm

Initial temperature of 140 ℃: 17.7N/5cm//40 ℃ wash 20.9N/5cm//60 ℃ wash 17.4N/5cm

Description of the drawings:

in fig. 1, a fiber web 1 of longitudinally and transversely laid fibers can be seen. The web 1 has a pore structure according to the invention. The apertures 2 in the web 1 are arranged in a grid. Also visible in this figure are bonding sites 3 arranged in an irregular dot pattern that allow bonding of the web 1 in selected surface areas while supporting the adhesive polymer particles 4. The fibres are free to move in the surface area between the joints 3. This effect can also be enhanced by the pore structure. The material has high elasticity.

Fig. 2 and 3 show the effect on force-stretch characteristics of a structured adhesive backing according to example 1 of the present invention and a comparative adhesive backing (PDB _1cc45.) that was not structured (structured using a 100 mesh screen in a second HE pass) but was made in the same manner. It can be seen that the nonwoven without structured treatment requires much higher forces to stretch in the machine and cross directions than the structured nonwoven. The bonded liners of the present invention may have improved elastic stretchability by being more easily stretched after a structuring process.

Fig. 4 and 5 show the effect of the lapping mode on the force-stretch characteristics of the adhesive interlining described in example 1 and a comparative adhesive interlining (PDB _3ra48) laid only longitudinally but made in the same manner. It can be seen that the longitudinal direction structured nonwoven is stretched under a much higher force than the longitudinal/transverse direction structured nonwoven described in example 1. Stretching is easier with longitudinal/transverse fiber placement. It can also be seen that the longitudinal structured nonwoven is extremely easy to stretch in the cross direction-as opposed to the machine direction/cross direction laid bond liners described in example 1. However, this property of easy stretch does not provide a restoring force and is therefore undesirable.

Fig. 6 and 7 show the effect of the depth of penetration of the adhesive into the substrate layer on the force-stretch characteristics of two adhesive backings according to the invention. The ultimate tensile force values perpendicular to the surface at 30% and 78% penetration depth are shown.

If 3P or double dot coating is used, it is desirable that the lower adhesive dot positions during printing do not sink too deeply into the web, as this can stiffen the hand. But the strength of the nonwoven fabric is also reduced due to the low penetration bonding rate of the printed adhesive.

Lower strength/ultimate tensile forces may reduce the reversibility of the elastic stretch of the structured nonwoven.

As can be seen from these figures, the nonwoven fabric consolidated at a penetration depth of 30% has a low stretchability and has a strength in the machine direction less than that of a bonded interlining strongly bonded at a penetration depth of 78%. If the web has a lower permeability engagement, the fibers are more likely to "slip" off of each other. This effect is more pronounced in transverse stretching. The adhesive backing reinforced at a penetration depth of 30% has only a weak reversible restoring force. Therefore, the penetration bonding rate is preferably more than 30%.

Claims (11)

1. A fusible interlining, in particular for use as a precursor fusible interlining in the textile industry, has a substrate layer of loosely bonded and water-jet structured fibrous webs or nonwovens, wherein the substrate layer is bonded only in selected surface regions by means of an adhesive and is coated on at least one side with an adhesive, and the substrate layer has a grid-like pore structure.

2. The adhesive backing of claim 1 wherein said pore structure is created by a structured screen or template using a hydroentangling process.

3. Adhesive backing according to claim 2, characterized in that the adhesive and/or cohesive are applied in a grid-like regular or irregular pattern of dots.

4. A fusible interlining according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fibrous web is formed in a plurality of layers with at least one longitudinally laid fibrous layer and at least one transversely laid fibrous layer.

5. The adhesive backing of claim 4 wherein the adhesive dots are configured as double adhesive dots comprising a lower adhesive dot comprising an adhesive and an upper adhesive dot comprising a thermoplastic polymer.

6. A fusible interlining as claimed in one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the double adhesive dots are produced by the known two-dot method in at least two steps, in which first an adhesive is applied to the substrate layer in a first step and then a thermoplastic polymer is applied to the adhesive in a second step.

7. A binder according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the double adhesive dots are formed by applying a binder-polymer particle dispersion to the web in one step according to known methods in which the binder at least partially penetrates into the web and forms lower adhesive dots, while the thermoplastic polymer particles remain on the surface of the web and form upper adhesive dots.

8. Adhesive backing according to claim 7, characterized in that the adhesive for the lower adhesive point is added in the following amounts: so that the fibrous web or the loosely bonded nonwoven can be bonded only by the lower adhesive points without further addition of adhesive.

9. An adhesive backing according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein said substrate layer consists essentially of fibres made of recycled polyethylene terephthalate.

10. An adhesive backing according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein said base layer has a weight per unit area of 15g/m²～120g/m²。

11. Use of the adhesive interlining according to any of claims 1 to 10 as a precursor adhesive interlining in the textile industry, in particular in the field of men's clothing.