IES980410A2 - A cosmetic composition - Google Patents
A cosmetic compositionInfo
- Publication number
- IES980410A2 IES980410A2 IES980410A IES980410A2 IE S980410 A2 IES980410 A2 IE S980410A2 IE S980410 A IES980410 A IE S980410A IE S980410 A2 IES980410 A2 IE S980410A2
- Authority
- IE
- Ireland
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- range
- amount
- total weight
- cosmetic composition
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 67
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 25
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 241001135917 Vitellaria paradoxa Species 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanoic acid Chemical class CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- WRIRWRKPLXCTFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N malonamide Chemical compound NC(=O)CC(N)=O WRIRWRKPLXCTFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- RHIIHYCQYFKTHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n'-dihexadecyl-n,n'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)propanediamide Chemical group CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCN(CCO)C(=O)CC(=O)N(CCO)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC RHIIHYCQYFKTHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 28
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 25
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 10
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 9
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylparaben Chemical compound COC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 7
- QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylparaben Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 229960001631 carbomer Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 210000000245 forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 5
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 5
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 4
- ZCTXEAQXZGPWFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N imidurea Chemical compound O=C1NC(=O)N(CO)C1NC(=O)NCNC(=O)NC1C(=O)NC(=O)N1CO ZCTXEAQXZGPWFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 4
- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000004292 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229960002216 methylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 4
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 4
- NSOXQYCFHDMMGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tetrakis(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine Chemical compound CC(O)CN(CC(C)O)CCN(CC(C)O)CC(C)O NSOXQYCFHDMMGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 230000036074 healthy skin Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000008092 positive effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 235000010232 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000004405 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229960003415 propylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 206010013786 Dry skin Diseases 0.000 description 2
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003990 capacitor Substances 0.000 description 2
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000037336 dry skin Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 2
- -1 hydroxyl alkyl amides Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004973 liquid crystal related substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 description 2
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940100460 peg-100 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940068065 phytosterols Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 2
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCO RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JYZLSYFPFQTNNO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC JYZLSYFPFQTNNO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005632 Capric acid (CAS 334-48-5) Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005635 Caprylic acid (CAS 124-07-2) Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013162 Cocos nucifera Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 244000060011 Cocos nucifera Species 0.000 description 1
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-ribo-phytosphingosine Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 102000010834 Extracellular Matrix Proteins Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010037362 Extracellular Matrix Proteins Proteins 0.000 description 1
- VQTUBCCKSQIDNK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isobutene Chemical class CC(C)=C VQTUBCCKSQIDNK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000232 Lipid Bilayer Substances 0.000 description 1
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021314 Palmitic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004264 Petrolatum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002367 Polyisobutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002701 Polyoxyl 40 Stearate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 206010063493 Premature ageing Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 235000019484 Rapeseed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N Sorbitan monostearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910000147 aluminium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000021302 avocado oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008163 avocado oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- ZFMQKOWCDKKBIF-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(3,5-difluorophenyl)phosphane Chemical compound FC1=CC(F)=CC(PC=2C=C(F)C=C(F)C=2)=C1 ZFMQKOWCDKKBIF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N cis-oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000000736 corneocyte Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002744 extracellular matrix Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940075507 glyceryl monostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940049294 glyceryl stearate se Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- SFFVATKALSIZGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-7-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC SFFVATKALSIZGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000036571 hydration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006703 hydration reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940057871 hydrogenated palm glycerides Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002085 irritant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 231100000021 irritant Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004668 long chain fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003278 mimic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001788 mono and diglycerides of fatty acids Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940043348 myristyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940078812 myristyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002446 octanoic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N phytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940033329 phytosphingosine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001195 polyisoprene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002265 prevention Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000013102 re-test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000003441 saturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004671 saturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000037380 skin damage Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037067 skin hydration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229950011392 sorbitan stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000000707 wrist Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) squalane derived from a plant source in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 7.5% of the total weight of the composition; (b) a mixed triester which results from the reaction of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 15% of the total weight of the composition; (c) a natural fatty acid glyceride that is obtained from the nuts of the karite or shea butter tree (Butyrospermum Parkii) in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition; (d) a bridged malonamide having a molecular weight of greater than 450 in an amount in the range of 0.05% to 2.75% of the total weight of the composition; and (e) a cosmetically acceptable carrier, provided that the combined amounts of ingredients (a) to (d) does not exceed 17% by weight of the total composition. The composition mimics certain aspects of the epidermal lipids of the skin thus helping to retain the moisture retaining properties of the skin.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a skincare composition.
Background of the Invention:
Cosmetics are used to enhance a person’s beauty either by cleansing, colouring moisturising Cosmetic skincare products have been used to prevent premature ageing and dryness by moisturising the skin and protecting it from environmental elements which tend to cause skin damage. In particular facial skincare products are important as the face tends to be exposed to the elements more frequently than the skin of other parts of the body.
LODGED
The skin is composed of different layers. From a cosmetic point of view it is the outer layer, the epidermis, which is of most importance. The external protective layer of the epidermis is the stratum comeum. The stratum corneum is composed of cells called corneocytes embedded in an extracellular matrix of multiple lipid bilayers. The entire stratum corneum forms a water barrier, thus controlling moisture loss from the skin.
Its proper function is essential for maintaining beautiful and healthy skin.
A healthy skin is dependent on the correct balance of lipids, hygroscopic watersoluble substances and water, with intercellular lipids playing a role in the water holding properties.
Two important functions of the stratum comeum are retention of moisture and prevention of water loss. Many factors such as exposure to environmental conditions like low humidity, insufficient hydration from epidermal layers and air movements may contribute to excessive water loss from the stratum comeum and as a result cause the skin to become dry. Continuous and prolonged immersion in soap or detergent solutions may also contribute to dryness of the stratum corneum.
One of the characteristics of aged skin is a partial decrease in the hygroscopic water soluble components, resulting in a lowered capacity for binding water in the stratum comeum and hence a dry skin. The cause of dry skin is the removal of skin surface lipids, the stratum comeum lipids and the dissolution of the hygroscopic water soluble components of the stratum corneum.
Emollient creams and lotions, which contain moisture binding ingredients and/or lipids and/or oils which contribute to improving the barrier function of the skin have a positive effect on skin hydration and have thus been used as skincare products. These products help to improve the appearance of skin and reduce the impact of irritants on the skin.
Skincare compositions are described by Rawlings et al in PCT publication no. WO 94/10131 employing phytosphingosine - containing ceramide one structures. These
OPEN TO PUBLIC WSPEC UNDER
SECTION 28 AND RULE 2
compositions are described as having a positive effect on the water barrier function of the skin and reducing water loss.
skinj
WO 94/07844 discloses hydroxyl alkyl amides of dicarboxylic acids and their use in cosmetic compositions. The hydroxyl alkyl amides disclosed are pseudoceramides
DMS® a product commercially available from Rhone Poulenc Rorer contains a phospholipid, lipids such as shea butter (which contains phytosterols) and squalane (obtained from olive oil) and caprylic/capric triglyceride
Object of the Invention.
It is an object of the present invention to provide alternative cosmetic compositions which act to reduce moisture loss from the skin and which help to maintain a healthy skin.
Summary of the Invention:
The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) squalane derived from a plant source in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 7.5% of the total weight of the composition;
(b) a mixed triester which results from the reaction of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 15% of the total weight of the composition;
(c) a natural fatty acid glyceride that is obtained from the nuts of the karite or shea butter tree (Butyrospermum Parkii) in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition;
(d) a bridged malonamide having a molecular weight of greater than 450 in an amount in the range of 0.05% to 2 75% of the total weight of the composition; and (e) a dermatologically acceptable carrier provided that the combined amounts of ingredients (a) to (d) does not exceed 17% by weight of the total composition
Beyond the limit of 17% stability problems could occur in the composition It is believed that the compositions of the present invention mimic certain aspects of the epidermal lipids of the skin thus helping to maintain the moisture retention properties of the skin.
In one embodiment of the present invention the composition further comprises a solvent which may be in addition to or comprised in the carrier (e). Suitably the solvent is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and/or other polyhydric alcohols, their esters and ethers. These solvents may also function as humectants.
Detailed Description of the Invention:
IE 980410
The cosmetic compositions of the invention are for application to human skin, more particularly the stratum corneum where they improve moisturisation. The compositions help to restore the moisture barrier function of the skin. The compositions of the invention are particularly useful for application to the face.
The compositions of the invention can be used in combination with one or more of the following additional ingredients;
(i) humectants such as glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and lactylates;
(ii) emollients such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, stearic acid, lauric acid, coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, cholesterol, rapeseed oil, palmitic acid, cycfomethicone, dimethicone, dioctyl adipate, hexyldecanol, octyldecanol, glyceryl monostearate, polyisobutene, polyisoprene, lanolin, polybutene and myristyl myristate;
(iii) skin-conditioner agents such as hydrogenated polydecane, hydrogenated isobutene, hydrogenated palm glycerides, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, coconut fatty acid triglyceride, refined phytosterols derived from edible soya oil;
(iv) complex lipids in which one of the primary hydroxyl groups of glycerin is esterified with a phosphoric acid which carries an additional ester grouping and the other two remaining hydroxyl groups are esterified with long chain, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.
Squalane derived from a plant source refers to squalane such as that obtainable from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil. The mixed triester which results from the reaction of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids generally contains caprylic acid at 50-65% and capric acid at 30-45%.
The natural fatty acid glyceride that is obtained from the nuts of the karite or shea butter tree (Butyrospermum Parkii, Bassio Parkii) is also known as shea butter Humectants are normally hygroscopic materials.
Experimental Details
The beneficial effects of the compositions of the invention can be demonstrated by carrying out Comeometer CM 825 moisturisation studies which are used to evaluate moisture retention properties of the skin due to the compositions of the invention being applied to the human skin. The moisture retention properties shown on treated areas are good and show improvement over control areas which were untreated.
Moisturisation Study Protocol
IE 980410
This study demonstrates the improved moisture retention in the skin due to the compositions of the invention when applied to the skin as compared to untreated areas of skin which were used as a control. A Corneometer CM825 (Courage & Khazaka) was used to measure the water content variation in the stratum corneum. This instrument takes measurements of the capacitance of the stratum corneum. The dielectric constant of water is relatively high and will effect the capacitance of a capacitor. Different dielectric constant due to different skin moisture levels can thus be measured
The instrument has a probe containing the precision capacitor attached to a liquid crystal display and can be connected to a computer. An active special purpose glass face of the probe is applied to the relevant skin area e g. volar forearm. A measurement of capacitance is taken and the value displayed on the liquid crystal display is the relative degree of moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin. The contact pressure applied by the active probe is maintained at a constant level by means of a special design feature on the probe.
Example 1
A cosmetic composition in the form of a skincare lotion was prepared using the following raw materials which are identified by INCI name. (INCI is an abbreviation for the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient. INCI nomenclature is internationally accepted and is detailed in publications such as International Cosmetic Ingredient dictionary and handbook (7th edition 1997 published by: The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 1101 17th Street, N W. Suite 300, Washington DC 20036-4702, United States of America). All ingredients are listed by their European Union (EU) INCI name with the exception of the ingredients: Water, Shea Butter and Fragrance which are listed by their US CTFA (Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association) name with the corresponding European Union INCI name listed alongside in parenthesis.
All data is given as the percentage weight/weight of the total composition.
INCI Name Phase A
Water (Aqua) to 100 (“To 100” is used in this
Example and the following Examples to indicate that water forms the remainder of the composition and does not include water of the other phases).
Carbomer 0.22 Butylene Glycol 2.00 Methylparaben 0.20 B Stearic Acid 1.40 Glyceryl Stearate SE 3.20
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.50 Squalane 3.00 Ceteareth-12 1.40 Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) 1.00 Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide 0.20 Propylparaben 0 10 Phase C Water 1.00 Triethanolamine 0.45 Phase D Water 1.00 Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.30 Phase E Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
IE 980410
Preparation:
The Carbomer was dispersed and mixed into water which was heated to 75-8O°C and the remaining raw materials from phase A added The temperature of this phase was maintained at 75-80°C. The raw materials from phase B were mixed with heating to 75-80°C. Phase B was added to phase A with milling and stirring and then phase C was added. Milling and stirring were continued yntil a homogenous emulsion was formed. The emulsion was then stirred until cool and phases D and E were added.
The skincare lotion produced had a pH in the range 6-7.
Example 2
A cosmetic composition in the form of a skincare cream was made from the following raw materials:
All data is given as the percentage weight/weight of the total composition.
INCI Name
Phase A
Water (aqua) to 100
Propylene Glycol '3.00
Carbomer 0 50
Methylparaben 0.25
Phase B
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG -100 Stearate 3.50
Cetyl Alcohol 0.80
Stearic Acid 2.00
Squalane 4.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3 .00
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Park’d) 2.00
Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide 0.75
IE 980410
Phase C
Water 2.00
Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine 1.60
Phase D
Water 1.00
Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.30
Phase E
Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
A skincare cream was prepared by combining the ingredients as described in Example
1.
The skincare cream produced had a pH in the range 6-7.
Example 3
A cosmetic skincare cream was made using the following raw materials
All data is given as the percentage weight/weight of the total composition
INCI Name
Phase A
Water (aqua) to 100 Carbomer 0.50 Glycerine 2.00 Methylparaben 0.25 Phase B Petrolatum 1.00 Squalane 2.20 Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride 5.50 Glyceryl Stearate 1.75 Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) 1.40 Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide 1.00 Cetyl alcohol 0.80 Sorbitan Stearate 0.40 PEG- 40 Stearate 1.35 Propylparaben 0.15 Phase C Water 2.00 Tetrahydroxy propyl Ethylenediamine 1.25 Phase D Water 1.00 Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.30 Phase E Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
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A skincare cream was prepared by combining the ingredients as d
I,
The skincare cream produced had a pH in the range 6-7.
Example 4
A skincare cream was prepared by combining the following ingredients as described in Example 1. All data is given as the percentage weight/weight of the total composition.
INCI Name Phase A
Water to 100 Carbomer 0.50% Glycerine 1.00 Methylparaben 0.25 Phase B Glyceryl Stearate, PEG 100 Stearate 3.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 Squalane 4.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00 Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) 1.00 Bishydroxyethyl Biscetyl Malonamide 1.00 Stearic Acid 2.00 Propylparaben 0.15 Phase C Water 2.00 Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine 1.60
Phase D
Water 1.00
Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.30
Phase E
Fragrance (parfom) 0 30
The cream produced was a homogenous cream with a pH in the range 6-7.
Evaluation of the moisturising effect of a formulation of Example 4:
The moisturising effect of the formulation of Example 4 was measured on the volar forearms of five volunteers using a Corneometer CM825 as described above. A measured quantity (approximately 0.040grams) of a formulation prepared according to Example 4 was applied to the volar forearms of five volunteers and spread in a manner to ensure coverage of the product over a defined area (treated area). The time was recorded when the product was applied and spread on the deflrlsi S8Q4slt0ie of application determined the time of assessing the treated area. The test sites on the volunteer volar forearms were systematically rotated throughout the panel i.e. alternating between being “near the elbow” and being “near the wrist” to ensure randomisation of results and prevent corruption of the results from location of the test site on the forearm. To avoid re-testing an area which was previously tested using the Corneometer CM825, which may have removed some of the formulation being examined, five subareas of the test site were created Each of the five subareas was measured using the Corneometer CM825 at different time intervals i.e. after 30mins, 60mins, 120mins, 300mins and 480mins Ten measurements were taken on the subareas at each time interval. Ten measurements were also taken on the untreated sites, which were located adjacent to the treated area, at each time interval. The results of this test is given in Table 1 below:
The data given in Tablel demonstrates a positive effect on the moisture levels in the stratum corneum of the skin, to which the composition of Example 4 was applied. The benefit was observed over several time intervals.
Claims (10)
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) squalane derived from a plant source in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 7.5% of the total weight of the composition; (b) a mixed triester which results from the reaction of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 15% of the total weight of the composition; (c) a natural fatty acid glyceride that is obtained from the nuts of the karite or shea butter tree (Butyrospermum Parkii) in an amount in the range ofO. 1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition; (d) a bridged malonamide having a molecular weight of greater than 450 in an amount in the range of 0.05% to 2.75% of the total weight of the composition; and (e) a cosmetically acceptable carrier, provided that the combined amounts of ingredients (a) to (d) does not exceed 17% by weight of the total composition.
2. A cosmetic composition according claim 1 wherein squalane is present in an amount in the range of 1.0 to 5.25% of the total weight of the composition.
3. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim wherein the mixed triester is present in an amount in the range of 1.0 to 7.0% of the total weight of the composition
4. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim wherein natural fatty acid glyceride that is obtained from the nuts of the karite or shea butter tree (Butyrospermum Parkii) is present in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 4.0% of the total weight of the composition.
5. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim wherein the bridged malonamide is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 1.4% of the total weight of the composition.
6. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim wherein the bridged malonamide is bishydroxyethyl biscetyl malonamide
7. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim which further comprises a solvent.
8. A cosmetic composition according to claim 7 wherein the solvent is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and/or polyhydric alcohols, their esters and ethers Tomkins & Co. IE 980410 Abstract A Cosmetic Composition A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) squalane derived from a plant source in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 7.5% of the total weight of the composition; (b) a mixed triester which results from the reaction of glycerin and caprylic and capric
9. 10 acids in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 15% of the total weight of the composition; (c) a natural fatty acid glyceride that is obtained from the nuts of the karite or shea butter tree (Butyrospermum Parkii) in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition; (d) a bridged malonamide having a molecular weight of greater than 450 in an amount in the range of 0.05%
10. 15 to 2.75% of the total weight of the composition; and (e) a cosmetically acceptable carrier, provided that the combined amounts of ingredients (a) to (d) does not exceed 17% by weight of the total composition. The composition mimics certain aspects of the epidermal lipids of the skin thus helping to retain the moisture retaining properties of the skin.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| IES980410 IES980410A2 (en) | 1998-05-29 | 1998-05-29 | A cosmetic composition |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| IES980410 IES980410A2 (en) | 1998-05-29 | 1998-05-29 | A cosmetic composition |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| IES980410A2 true IES980410A2 (en) | 2000-03-08 |
Family
ID=27620410
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| IES980410 IES980410A2 (en) | 1998-05-29 | 1998-05-29 | A cosmetic composition |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| IE (1) | IES980410A2 (en) |
-
1998
- 1998-05-29 IE IES980410 patent/IES980410A2/en not_active IP Right Cessation
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| Date | Code | Title | Description |
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| MM4A | Patent lapsed |