IES990130A2 - Curved Garment elements and method and apparatus for their manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

A narrow fabric elastic material comprises elastomeric elements which are covered with a stretch yarn of polybutylene terephthalate. The stretch yarn may be applied in a knitting or weaving process and allows a significant increased grip of the elastomeric during the covering of the elastomeric elements. The elastic material (50) can have a variable modulus across its width and is included in a waistband (24) having a predefined curvature or shape. The waistband (24) is formed by a folder (10) on a sewing machine having at least one needle (30). A blind stitch is formed on the front face (20) of the waistband (24) and a chain or lock stitch (25) is formed on the rear face (22). The curved waistband (24) can also be formed on a sewing machine having at least two needles by rows of stitching (27 and 28). <Figure 2>

Description

CURVED GARMENT ELEMENTS AND METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR THEIR MANUFACTURE * The present invention relates to curved or shaped garment elements and to a method of and 5 apparatus for making garment elements, such as for example waist bands for garments, stolling bands for dressing gowns, collars for shirts and the like. The method and apparatus may be used particularly to apply predefined curves or shapes to such elements so as to provide curved or shaped waistbands for example.

In the specification of my Irish Short-Term Patent No. SS0583 dated 24th June 1998 and published on 7th October 1998, there is disclosed a narrow fabric elastic in which the elastomeric elements are covered with a stretch wrap yam which allows a significant increase in modulus due to the strength of the stretch yam characteristics when wrapped around the existing elastomeric elements. That specification specifically discloses a narrow fabric elastic with a variable modulus across the width of the fabric which provides extra comfort in elasticated shaped garment waistbands.

The object of the present invention is to provide curved or shaped garment elements and a method and apparatus for manufacturing curved or shaped waistbands and other curved or shaped elements for garments.

The present invention provides a garment element having a predefined curvature or shape, the garment element having a folded over single piece or two piece outer fabric and at least one row of stitching retaining the garment element in the predefined curvature or shape.

Advantageously, the stitching is a single or double row of stitching.

Preferably, in a single row stitching application, the line of stitching is a row of blind stitching whereby the stitching is not visible from one side of the garment element but is 30 visible from the other side.

INT ririUi^P2> OPEN TO PUBLIC INSPECTION UNiFP SECTION 28 AnL F.F A 23 JNL NO OF & utlfe» a ·«··*·····«·········« IE 990130 -2Conveniently, in a double row stitching application, the stitching on both rows is visible from both sides of the garment element. Such a type of stitching is used in jeans for example.

Advantageously, an interlining element or elements is retained within the garment element between the folded side or sides of the outer fabric of the garment element.

The interlining element may be elastic material with a single or dual multimodulus or variable modulus across its width, an elastic material with a single modulus across its width, two or more separate lengths of single variable modulus elastic, a rigid tape or interlining or the like.

The garment element may also be produced from a rigid fabric formed into an elasticated band using the method as outlined in my European Patent Application 0 774 215 A2 published on 21st May 1997, the contents of which are incorporated into this specification by reference.

The principal features of the apparatus and method will be appreciated from the specific description which follows.

The invention will hereinafter be more particularly described with reference to and as shown in the accompanying drawings, which show by way of example only, two embodiments of apparatus according to the invention and an embodiment of a waistband according to the invention.

In the drawings: Figure 1 is a perspective view of the first embodiment of the apparatus mounted on a sewing machine; Figure 2 is a similar view to Figure 1 showing a waistband being attached to a garment fabric; IE 990130 -3Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 but showing only the needle of the sewing machine, the waistband and garment fabric; Figure 4 is a view of a partially dismantled waistband from underneath; Figures 5(a) to (e) show a progression of how the waistband is formed about and attached to a garment fabric as it passes through a folder (not shown) and the apparatus; Figure 6 is a plan view of a variable modulus elastic material used to manufacture the waistband and Figure 7 is an end view of the elastic material; Figure 8 is a front view of a portion of the waistband, Figure 9 is a rear view of the waistband and Figure 10 is a cross-sectional end view of the completed waistband; Figure 11 is an exploded perspective view of the feed mechanism of a second apparatus according to the invention; and Figure 12 is a schematic illustration of how a garment having a curved or shaped waistband would look in use.

The following is an index of the reference numerals used in the Figures: folder upper channel lower channel upper lip of folder lower lip of folder front face rear face waistband chain stitch or lock stitch -4IE 9901.30 70 72 110 120 garment upper row of stitching lower row of stitching needle thread upper edge lower edge elastic material elastomeric elements hinge portion upper edge of elastic material lower edge of elastic material inner turn of front face 20 inner turn of rear face 22 left feed dog right feed dog Referring to the drawings, and initially to Figures 1 to 10, the first embodiment of apparatus comprises a folder 10 having an upper channel 12 and a lower channel 14 for accommodating a front face 20 and rear face 22 of a waistband 24. Elastic material 50 is fused to the waistband 24. The folder 10 has an upper lip 16 and a lower lip 18 which is staggered back from the line of the edge of the upper lip 16 by a distance of approximately 4.75 mm (3/16”). In this way, needle 30 of the sewing machine with thread 31 penetrates inner turn 70 of the front face 20 of the waistband 24 and penetrates fully through the garment fabric 26 through the inner turn 72 of the rear face 22 of the waistband 24 and exits at the rear face 22. In this way a blind stitch is formed on the front face 20 of the waistband 24 and a chain stitch or lock stitch 25 is formed on the rear face 22 of the waistband 24.

The elastic material 50 as shown in Figures 6 and 7 has a variable modulus across its width. It has a plurality of elastomeric elements 51 across its width, and a hinge portion 52 at its centre. The spacing towards the edges 53 and 54 is increased compared to the IE 990130 -5spacing towards the hinge 52. In this way when the elastic material 50 is included in a waistband 24 the upper edge 32 of the waistband 24 has a greater strength than the lower edge 33 which is weaker. Consequently, when the formed waistband 24 emerges from the apparatus, the upper edge 32 relaxes more than the lower edge 33 thus forming a curve or shape in the waistband.

Referring now to Figure 11, the second embodiment of apparatus includes a twin needle sewing machine (not shown) for applying two rows of stitching in which the feed mechanism for feeding material to the needle points is split so as to provide a differential feed to each needle.

The feed eccentric of the left feed dog 110 is adjusted separately from the feed eccentric of the right feed dog 120. Each eccentric is driven by a separate mechanism. In this way, a concave or convex curve or shape can be formed by forming two rows of stitching at different differential feed speeds on a garment element.

As shown in Figure 12, the waistband 24 is attached to a garment 26 by two rows of stitching 27 and 28. The waistband 24 is shaped as a result of its curvature, thereby giving ·· a more comfortable fit about a person’s hips and waist.

Although, both embodiments have been described separately, they will preferably be both mounted on a sewing machine, so that a user can select which type of garment element is to be manufactured.

It will of course be understood that the invention is not limited to the specific details herein described, which are given by way of example only, and that various modifications and alterations are possible with the scope of the invention.

Claims (5)

CLAIMS: #.

1. A garment element having a predefined curvature or shape, the garment element having a folded over single piece or two piece outer fabric and at least one row of stitching 5 retaining the garment element in the predefined curvature or shape.

2. A garment element as claimed in Claim 1, in which the stitching is a single or double row of stitching; optionally 10 in which the stitching is in a single row of blind stitching, whereby the stitching is not visible from one side of the garment element but is visible from the other side; optionally in which the stitching is in a double row, the stitching on both rows being visible 15 from both sides of the garment element; optionally in which an interlining element or elements is retained within the garment element between the folded side or sides of the outer fabric of the garment element; optionally in which the interlining element is an elastic material with a single multimodulus, or an elastic material with a dual multimodulus; or an elastic material with a variable modulus across its width; or an elastic material with a single modulus across its width; or it comprises a plurality of separate lengths of single variable modulus 25 elastic; or it comprises a rigid tape or interlining; and optionally in which the garment element is produced from a rigid fabric formed into an elasticated band. 30

3. Apparatus for forming a curved waistband on a garment fabric comprising a sewing machine having at least one needle and a folder for forming a length of material into the shape of the waistband, the folder having an upper channel and a lower channel for IE 990130 -7accommodating a front face and a rear face of the waistband, the folder also having a front lip and a second lip staggered back from the plane of the edge of the first lip by a needle clearance distance, whereby the needle of the sewing machine penetrates an inner tum of the front face of the waistband and penetrates fully through the garment fabric, an inner tum of the rear face of the waistband, exits at the rear face to form a chain or lock stitch, with a blind stitch being formed on the front face of the waistband.

4. Apparatus for forming a curved waistband on a garment fabric comprising a sewing machine having at least two needles, a folder forming a length of material into the shape of a waistband and means for providing differential feed of material to each of the needle points; optionally in which the feed mechanism of the sewing machine is split so as to provide the differential feed to each needle point; and optionally in which each split feed mechanism comprises a separate drive means, a feed eccentric and a feed dog.

5. A garment element having a predefined curvature or shape substantially as herein described with reference to and as shown in Fig. 12 of the accompanying drawing, or apparatus for forming a curved waistband on a garment fabric substantially as herein described with reference to and as shown in Figs. 1 to 11 of the accompanying drawings.