IL24092A - Collars of garments - Google Patents

Description

C O H E N Z E D E K & S P I S B A C H REGD. PATENT ATTORNEYS 34, LEVONTIN SIR.. P. O. B. 116» f ( l . A V I V P A T E N T S & D E S I G N S O D I N A N C E SPECIFICATION IMPROVEMENTS IN COLLARS OF GARMENTS AENNE LENZ, a German citizen* of Matemusstrasee 29 Roderikirchen b, Koeln, Germany, Y DECLARE the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement : From the German Patent 1*03 #961 of the applicant a collar is known, in which the bulky parts along the front edges and the lower edge of conventional collars are avoided. This is achieved as a result of the fact that an Insert determining the subsequent shape of the collar is connected by a longitudinal seam to the piece cut out or the facing and backing which is then folded over round the lateral edges of the insert which latter form the front edges of the collar and are connected by a transverse seam at the joint* The facing and backing covering of the insert thus formed is sewn togethe along the future lower edge of the collar by means of a longitudinal seam outside the insert and the covering is turned over the insert* Thus the connecting seams are hidden in such a manner that they are invisible from the front edge of the collar., Following this instruction the new non-iron fabrics, for example nylon and that sold under the trademark "Perlon",, can be used with good results., Recently these fabrics are being superseded more and more by boll-proof and nevertheless non-iron fabrics by which a change in the method of collar manufacturing is practical* When using these new fabrics in manufacture experience has been that the turning around the top and under fabric to the interlining along the lower edge without a connection to the underlining is impossible unless the collar is known manner closed by a quilting seam whereby the advantage of a seamless front side, an advantage among others resulting from the above-mentioned older patent of the applicant, will be lost* With the invention the problem is solved of economically manufacturing a collar suitable for all kinds of fabrics and for all purposes which incorporates the advantage of the German Patent 1»039. 61 and furthermore permits the use of boil proof,no-iron fabrics.

This is achieved according to the invention in that the collar comprises a covering of facing material which consists of a single piece of material or of a plurality of pieces and is formed by folding the facing material round the lateral edges of an interlining or insert determining the subsequent shape of the collar and subsequently sewing together the abutting parts of the facing material* This covering hides the insert at both aides and is sewn at its edge at the bottom edge of the collar to the bottom edge of the insert* Aside from this connection seam between the covering and the interlining another connecting seam along the collar between the top fabric layers is possible* The interlining can be of one piece or of several pieces joined together by sewing or adhesive and may have parts protruding initially beyond the front edges and subsequent-lytbu ned back over the interlining along the collar front edges. The collar according to the invention, therefore,, is simple in design and extremely economical In manufacture,. By this special way of fastening the top fabric covering to the interlining, the collar is protected against distortion along the collar bottom edge, and is boil-proof* Furthermore, bulky parts along the collar edges are avoided. The invention is applicable to any form of collar.

The manufacture of a top collar by the invention is which is cut for the front and rear sides of the collar is connected along its narrow edges by at least one transverse seam. After being folded up it is joined to the fabric cut for the interlining at its bottom edge selvedge with a seam at the bottom edge of the interlining, and then is turned over the Interlining, after which in known way the neckband is sewn on. In case difficulties should arise when sewing together the interlining and the facing fabric along the bottom edge of the collar by trainees or unskilled labour, which difficulties are absent with skilled labour, to both fabric layers of the facing, before sewing them to the Interlining, may be stitched together by by a seam along the collar bottom edge in such a way that the facing on that side where it is sewn on to the interlining will already show a connecting seam so that now the sewing on to the interlining only needs to be done along the already existing connecting seam.

The invention is also suitable for a one-piece collar in which the top collar and the under collar or neckband are not manufactured separately and then sewn together along the fold edge, but form one unit right from the beginning. This one-piece collar has many advantages, e.g. one only interlining piece and, at best only one piece of top fabric,, sewing together of the top collar and under collar is unnecessary, saving labour, and the Collar fold edge is thin. On the other hand, it is difficult to manufacture such a collar because the insets of the buttonhole and button flaps are cut in and have to be sewn by a French seam to the other cut, which causes ugly distortions and bulky parts on the collar points. Additionally» the bulky parts of the collar points and the ugly seam is visible from the front.

It is therefore particularly important that by this invention all these disadvantages are eliminated.

Additionally, with another method of forming the facing* consisting of one or more parts* for the front and rear sides of a one-piece collar* notches are cut out in the bottom edge of the neckband at two points* the notches being triangle shaped with an apex angle of about 95°* the apex angle meeting the front edges of the collar. Into these notches separately cut flap parts are sewn with seams which are so far back that they cannot be seen from the front after turning around of the top collar over the fold edge on the under collar. The points of the flaps* therefore, lie flat and do not show the French seams. Since the flaps are turned around when sewn to a shirt or when stitched ovef in frontr, here too the stitched part remains thin. In prior constructions the fold edges have been thick, so that at the beginning as well as at the end of these seams bulky Joints always appeared.

This . construction can further be improved - according to the invention · in that the two separate cuts for the collar flaps and with its additional labour for the cutting as well as for the sewing are obviated, further, in that when a neck tie is worn with the collar, no seams are visible at the collar flaps, and the cut in corners for the collar flaps along the rear side transverse seams which connect the top facing are behind the front edges of the collar.

For this purpose those parts which form the collar flaps are formed in the facing of different lengths, whereby the parts for the front side of the collar flaps are of different size from those for the rear side and in such, a way that the edges of the parts joining the side edges of the collar form nearly equal angles with them.

With these equal angles the pieces of the front and rear side fabrics are first put one on top of the other and then sewn together with a continuous seam and, again* put on top of each other on the other side and sewn together. his done, the front fabric facing is finished, thus, the button and button hole flaps always are of the same length and, after finishing need no examining, one side against the other, for equal length or, correcting i not equal* The front fabric covering, as described above, can be sewn with the neckband edge to the corresponding edge of the interlining* The sewing together of the front fabric facing and the interlining may be done advantageously in a different way in which a multilayer interlining is more practical. The interlining consists of a basic part and one o more further Interlining parts which at least stiffen the collar top and which are connected to each other preferably by adhesive. The basic interlining part, first, provides a protrusion on each side which defines the shape of the inished collar flaps· Along each collar front edge a protrusion can be provided which extends beyon the Interlining by about ko mm. Further, the basic interlining on the bottom edge of the collar is about 8 mm wider than the stiffening interlining part.

On this complete interlining the covering is put bottom edge on top of bottom edge and both are sewn together by a seam mm distant from the stiffening interlining* The covering with its basic interlining part the bottom edge of which, which lies about 8 mm beyond the stiffening part is then folded back* By this procedure, a space of about mm in width if formed between the line of stitching of the facing and the edge of the stiffening interlining part, which permits both interlining parts to be sewn together without touching the collar covering* This seam prevents the fabric at the back of the collar from protruding over the bottom edge of the completed collar* Before turning the collar that portion of the basic interlining part which may protrude over the front edge of the collar, if at all, can be turned up against the Inner side, which means to the stiffening interlining part, after it has been provided with bones* This method prevents wear and tear of the collar points, since the covering is in no way touching the edge of the sharp stiffening interlining which is Important with regard to all poplin fabrics.

The stiffening Interlining part by a further development of the invention is spaced from the folded edge of the collar, but extends into the neck band at the ends of the top collar. Because of this, when the collar top is folded around the fold edge of the collar a rounded tunnel is further formed to receive a neck tie.

The stiffening interlining part can be reinforced by especially adhesive wings* The under collar can also be furnished with a reinforcing strip adhesively attached to the interlining. This ie important with regard to cotton fabrics (poplin).

On nylon and "Perlon" fabrics no wings on the basic interlinings at the collar front edge have to be provided. There also is no adhesive strip necessary in the collar neckband* The advantages described with regard to a one-piece collar can also be used on a two-piece collar* especially the forming of the fabric facing, the fixing of the facing to the basic interlining bottom edge, the attachment to the basic interlining of an adhesive lining to determine the shape of the collar and which can be reinforced by adhesive wings, the turning over of the basic interlining bottom edge which is sewn to the facing towards the adhesive Interlining and the attaching of the braiding seam.

In the accompanying drawings three examples of the con* struction according to the invention are shown. In Pigs. 1 - 6 the manufacture of a top collar is shown, in Figs. 7 - 11 the manufacture of a one-piece collar as far as they differ in details, and Figs, 12 - 20 show another way to manufacture a one-piece collar.

More specifically there is shown ine Fig. 1 the spread-out top fabric for the top side and parts of the underside of a top collar; Fig* 2 the spread-our top fabric for the rest of the under side of the top collar* Fig* 3 the pieces shown in Figs* 1 and 2 sewn together by transverse seams( Fig* the assembly of the collar parts in preparation for the connect n seam between to fabric and nterl nn Pig* 5 the condition after execution of the connecting seam* Pig. 6 the finished collar after turning but before sewing on the neckband; Fig. 7. the spread out top fabric for the top and under sides of a one-piece collar* with pieces for flaps| Fig* 8 the appurtenant interlining* also spread-ou j Fig. the spread-out top fabric with sewn on fla sf Pig, 10 the top fabric covering for the interlining formed by eewing to ether the two small cut ends and by folding together? Fig.11 the finished collar with top collar turned a-round the fold edge onto the under cellars Fig.12 the blank for the fabric for the top side of another one-piece collar! Fig.13 the blank for the fabric for the under side of the one-piece collar of Fig.12} Fig. l4 the condition during the manufacture of the connecting seam between the two fabric pieces shown in Figs. 12 and 13? Fig.15 a plan view of the inside of the fabric covering manufactured according to Fig. l4{ Fig.16 a blank for the interlining! Fig. 17 the condition while sewing the fabric covering to the interlining! Fig.18 the condition after turning the sewn-on fabric covering around the interlining! Fig.19 the collar under side after turning the top fabric covering over the interlining and before sewing on to a shirt to which it belongs! and The example in Fig's . 1 - 6 starts from a top fabric piece 1 for the top side of the collar which is cut longer than the finished length of the collar (Fig.l) Accordingly, the top fabric piece 2 for the underside of the collar is out correspondingly smaller (Fig.2).

Piece 2 can be substituted by several pieces. Fig. 3 shows that the pieces 1 and 2 are connected at the back of the collar with transverse French seams 3 and ft, thus forming a top fabric covering. Subsequently* the two fabric layers, one on top of the other, are sewn together near the bottom edge with a seam 5, which runs adjacent edge 6, e.g. at a distance of about 7 mm. The covering -see Fig. ft - is put with its bottom edge 6 in mirror image fashion to edge 7 of an interlining piece 8. Next, the covering is put on top of the interlining 8 along the bottom edge as indicated by the arrows shown in Fig.ft and sewn to interlining 8 with a seam 9 (Fig.5)« Thus, seam runs parallel to seam a**<* within the space between it and edge 6. The first made seam 5 to close the covering at its bottom edge facilitates the sewing together of covering ^Bid interlining. This seam 5 is unnecessary with labour skilled enough to locate the covering with its bottom edge open and sew it directly to the interlining with seam 9* As soon as the connection with the bottom edges of interlining and covering has been made, the latter - as per Fig. 5 - is turned over interlining 8 and the collar form results - as shown in Fig. 6 - which then is furnished along top edge 10 with the neckband.

In the example for the execution of the one-piece i. a one-piece top fabr c 12 for the top and under side of the collar and an interlining 13 which is also in one piece* These pieces may also consist of several parts* The top fabric 12 is cut out to form notches l with an angle slightly larger than 90° in such a way that its apex lies on the dotted line 15 which will later form one of the collar front edges* In these notches two pieces 16 for the buttonhole or buttonflaps are sewn as in Fig.9· Because of the wide ange of the notches l4, the oining seams 17 are so far back that if the finished collar 18 is folded along edge 19 over neckband 20 no seams can be seen from the front on the flaps 21 (Fig.ll). The putting together of the top fabric piece 12 to form the covering of interlining 13 on both sides is done by seam 22, (Fig.lO) after folding together the two free ends over the collar back, and so is invisible from the front as described in the previous example* Also the sewing together of the covering and interlining by a seam running along bottom edge 23 of the top fabric covering and the bottom edge h of the interlining is done as described before in relation to edges 6 and 7* The open edge of the covering which remains and which forms the bottom edge of the neckband is used by a seam in a conventional machine* Figs* 12 - 20 describe the development of another one* piece collar, according to the invention* ig. 12 shows the top fabric piece 1 for the top side of a one-piece collar by which the top collar and under collar or neckband form an undivided whole; Fig. 13 shows the top fabric piece 2 for the back or under side of the complete collar.

The top fabric pieces shown salient parts 2k and 25 according to the invention which* when put together in position* will form button and buttonhole flaps. The top fabric piece for the colla t&p side 1 has to be longer than the top fabric piece 2 for the underside of the collar. Of different size also are the top fabric parts 2¾ and 25 for the flaps.

The two top fabric pieces are then sewn together with two transversal seams 28. The positions of these cross seams correspond to the side edges 26 and 27 respectively, of the pieces which lie at equal angles a to the adjacent edge of the respective parts 2^, · To form the top fabric parts by sewing together the two top fabric pieces. Figs* 12 and 13, the part 2 is, as Fig. l shows, laid on top of and substantially at a right angle to part 1 with the side edges 26 and 27 coinciding, and parts 1 and 2 are sewn together by a through seam 28 first on one side and then on the other. Thus, the top fabric covering closed on both side edges. Fig* 15» is formed with the cross seam 28 running on what will be the under side of the collar and therefore invisible from the front* This covering is notched at 9 at about the height of the Junction of the collar f ont edges 2 with the flaps 21 in the known way as far as seam 28· Fig. 16 shows an interlining comprising several layers although the interlining can be manufactured in other ways, especially as a one-layer interlining.

, In the example the interlining consists of one piece lining piece 32 to extend over the neckband also, the two pieces being connected preferably by adhesive* The piece 32 is furnished at the sides with salient parts 33 which preferably extend by about 4o mm beyond the side edges 3^ of the interlining piec 31· These two salient parts project beyond the side edges 3¾ of the interlining piece 31» as will be shown later, to prevent war and tear of the top fabric at the front edges of the collar* These salient parts 3** additionally can be reinforced with stuck-on or stitched-on collar bones 35» The interlining piece 32 extends about 8 mm beyond the interlining piece 31 at the edge of the top collar region* The piece 31 has an extension 36 on each side overlying the Interlining of the neckband which creates a perfect rounding in the fold edge between the two parts of the completed collar, i.e. the top collar and the under collar or neckband* thus giving the tie a perfect hold* At the back* w thin the area of the neckband, a line of adhesive 37 is applied to the interlining piece 32 to secure a reinforcing strip of material thereto* which is important if the top fabric covering is made of cotton material* Also » the Interlining piece 1 is reinforced from the front edgesof the collar backwards for a certain distance by stuck-on patches 38* In the interlining piece 2» parts 39 can be formed which in addition will reinforce the butto and buttonhole flaps* As shown in Fig* 17, the covering layers 1 , 2 shown in Pig. 15 are placed on the composite interlining next to the piece 31, the edges of the layers 1» 2 and of piece 3 remote from the collar neckband being aligned* The layers 1, 2 are then sewn to the aligned edges of the layers and piece 32. The layers 1, 2 are then turned back as shown, by the arrow in Fig, 17» the interlining piece 32 being also folded back at the same time along a line coincident with the edge of the piece 31» In a small area of the folded back part of the piece 321 between the line o and the edge of the piece 31, the two pieces are stitched together by a further line of stitching ¾1. This line of stitching does not pass through either covering layer and serves to prevent the back of the covering protruding over the lower edge of the finished collar* The collar is finished by folding around the salient parts 33 as indicated by the arrow in Fig. 18* along the front edges of the interlining piece 31 and thereafter the top fabric covering is turned around the interlining thus covering the interlining on both sides with top fabric* The completed collar is shown In Figs. 19 and 20.

Fig. 19 shows the back of the collar with the transversely running connecting seams of the two top fabric pieces which - as Fig. 20 shows by a view on the outside of the collar — are invisible om the front. Both Figures show moreover* that within the arc o the button and buttonhole flaps the connecting seam of the two flap parts is lying on th side of the collar which is not visible from the front when a tie is worn. Thus* no seam is to be seen and that is an essential advantage of the collar according to the invention.

Claims (8)

1. WHAT I CLAIM IS«- 1. A collar having an interlining extending substantially over the entire area of the collar and which is covered on both sides by a facing, the facing, which comprises one piece or two or more pieces connected together transversely accross the collar, being folded about the interlining at the ends of the collar, the transverse joined edges of the piece or pieces being disposed on the under side of the facing so as not to be visible at the top side or endedges of the collar, the facing further being joined to the interlining by a line of etiching extending alongas the bottom edges of the facing and the interlining which provides the only connection between the interlining and at least the cape portion of the collar*

2. A collar according to Claim 1, characterised in that the top and under sides of the facing are joined by a connecting seam extending longitudinally of the collar and additional to the line of stitching joining the facing and interlining.

3. A collar according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the interlining itself or a furthe interlining attached to it is provided with side parts initially protruding beyond the collar end edges which are folded back along the collar end edges*

4. ¾. A collar according to any of claims 1 - 3» characterised in that the facing for a one-piece collar has triangular pieces of an apex angle of 90° - 100° removed from its bottom edge so as to form sloping edges at the ends of the collar to which extra pieces for the button and buttonhole flaps are sewn.

5. * A collar according to claim t characterised in that the facing consisting of a larger piece of fabric for the top side of the collar and a smaller piece of fabric for the under side of the collar connected by transverse seams accross the width, each fabric piece having a continuation which continuations are superimposed on top of each other and joined by a seam along their edges to form the covering of the button and buttonhole flaps*

6. A collar according to claim 5» characterised in that after the facing is sewn along its bottom edge to the bottom edge of the interlining* it is then folded over the interlining.

7. * A collar according to claim 5 or 6, characterised in that for the interlining a structure is composed of one or more layers which consist of a stiffening part, one base part connected with it and one or more reinforcing patches whereby the base part protrudes beyond and along the bottom edge of the stiffening part and further characterised in that the facing is sewn along its bottom edge to the protruding base part and a further small seam is provided which does not pass through the facing for sewing together the base interlining part to the stiffening interlining part after the base part which protrudes is turned back from the bottom edge of the stiffening part* which seam* after the turning of the facing over the interlining* is hidden by the top face of the collar*

8. A collar according to any one of claims 1 — 7» characterised in that the bottom edge of the facing is sewn o the bottom edge of the interlining while the racing and the interlining lie edge-to-edge in a mirror image relationship to each other* *> 9· A collar constracted and arranged substantially as hereinbefore described and shown in Figs* 1 - 6, 7 - 11, and 12 - 20 of the accompanying drawings. COHEN ZEDEK AND SPISBACH P.O.Box 1169, Tel-Aviv Attorneys for the Applicant