IT202100016673A1 - REINFORCING MATERIAL FOR LEATHER GOODS AND FOOTWEAR - Google Patents

REINFORCING MATERIAL FOR LEATHER GOODS AND FOOTWEAR Download PDF

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Publication number
IT202100016673A1
IT202100016673A1 IT102021000016673A IT202100016673A IT202100016673A1 IT 202100016673 A1 IT202100016673 A1 IT 202100016673A1 IT 102021000016673 A IT102021000016673 A IT 102021000016673A IT 202100016673 A IT202100016673 A IT 202100016673A IT 202100016673 A1 IT202100016673 A1 IT 202100016673A1
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Italy
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reinforcing material
material according
polymer
footwear
impregnating
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IT102021000016673A
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Italian (it)
Inventor
Roberta Balbo
Greta Lumini
Giovanni Zanetti
Luigi Coarezza
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Tecno Gi S P A
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Priority to IT102021000016673A priority Critical patent/IT202100016673A1/en
Priority to EP22180882.7A priority patent/EP4108827A1/en
Publication of IT202100016673A1 publication Critical patent/IT202100016673A1/en

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/12Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins
    • D06N3/14Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/0215Plastics or artificial leather
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/081Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/086Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/16Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/564Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/70Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0009Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using knitted fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/007Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by mechanical or physical treatments
    • D06N3/0075Napping, teasing, raising or abrading of the resin coating
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/12Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins
    • D06N3/14Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes
    • D06N3/146Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes characterised by the macromolecular diols used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/12Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins
    • D06N3/14Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes
    • D06N3/147Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes characterised by the isocyanates used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2201/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads or yarns
    • D06N2201/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06N2201/042Cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Synthetic Leather, Interior Materials Or Flexible Sheet Materials (AREA)

Description

TITOLO: MATERIALE DI RINFORZO PER PELLETTERIA E CALZATURE TITLE: REINFORCING MATERIAL FOR LEATHER GOODS AND FOOTWEAR

Descrizione Description

Campo tecnico dell?invenzione Technical field of the invention

La presente invenzione si riferisce ad un materiale di rinforzo da utilizzare nel settore degli articoli di pelletteria e calzaturieri. The present invention relates to a reinforcing material to be used in the leather goods and footwear sector.

Stato dell?arte State of art

Nel settore della pelletteria e delle calzature vengono comunemente utilizzati dei materiali di rinforzo atti a sostenere e dare corpo alle pelli cui vengono accoppiati, che spesso risultano molto morbide e cascanti e di basso spessore. In the leather goods and footwear sector, reinforcing materials are commonly used to support and give body to the leathers to which they are coupled, which are often very soft and sagging and of low thickness.

Tali materiali di rinforzo devono quindi possedere propriet? antipiega, in modo da conferire rotondit? e pienezza al pellame e da evitare che esso venga segnato dal materiale di rinforzo stesso. These reinforcing materials must therefore possess properties anti-crease, in order to give roundness? and fullness to the leather and to avoid that it is marked by the reinforcing material itself.

Un?altra caratteristica importante, soprattutto nell?utilizzo con le calzature, ? la propriet? antiscivolo. Infatti il materiale di rinforzo costituir? la superficie interna della tomaia a contatto con il piede, per cui ? importante che il piede non scivoli all?interno della scarpa. Another important feature, especially when used with footwear, is the property? non-slip. In fact, the reinforcing material will constitute? the inner surface of the upper in contact with the foot, so it? important that the foot does not slip inside the shoe.

Il materiale di rinforzo deve inoltre essere compatibile con le colle o mastici comunemente utilizzati in tali settori ed essere morbido e vellutato al tatto. Altre propriet? desiderabili dovrebbero essere l?idrorepellenza e la biodegradabilit?. The reinforcing material must also be compatible with the glues or mastics commonly used in these sectors and be soft and velvety to the touch. Other properties? desirable should be water repellency and biodegradability.

I materiali di rinforzo comunemente impiegati nel settore della pelletteria e delle calzature sono: The reinforcing materials commonly used in the leather goods and footwear sector are:

- la cosiddetta ?camoscina? o ?synthetic leather lining?, costituita da gomma NBR (acrylonitrile butadiene rubber) impregnata su un supporto nontessuto di poliestere; - the so-called ?camoscina? o ?synthetic leather lining?, consisting of NBR rubber (acrylonitrile butadiene rubber) impregnated on a non-woven polyester support;

- microfibra a base poliuretano con supporto di non-tessuto caratterizzato da una miscela di fibre nylon/PES/PP. - polyurethane-based microfibre with non-woven backing characterized by a blend of nylon/PES/PP fibres.

Entrambi i materiali sono ottenuti attraverso un processo di coagulazione ed eventuale successiva spaccatura per l?ottenimento degli spessori pi? sottili desiderati. Both materials are obtained through a process of coagulation and possible subsequent splitting to obtain the thickest? thin desired.

Tali materiali di rinforzo hanno alcune delle propriet? richieste dall?utilizzo sopra descritto, ma senz?altro non la biodegradabilit?. Such reinforcing materials have some of the properties required by the use described above, but certainly not biodegradability.

L?idrorepellenza viene inoltre comunemente conferita mediante trattamenti chimici successivi, che possono avere un ulteriore impatto negativo sia sulla biodegradabilit? che sulla ecosostenibilit?. Furthermore, water repellency is commonly conferred by subsequent chemical treatments, which can have a further negative impact on both biodegradability and than on eco-sustainability.

Sommario dell?invenzione Summary of the invention

? quindi sentita l?esigenza di mettere a disposizione un materiale di rinforzo che oltre a possedere le caratteristiche indispensabili per il suo impiego nel settore della pelletteria e calzaturiero, abbia anche un?elevata biodegradabilit? e sia ecocompatibile anche nella fase di produzione. Tale materiale deve anche avere un costo contenuto. ? therefore having felt the need to make available a reinforcing material which, in addition to possessing the indispensable characteristics for its use in the leather goods and footwear sector, also has high biodegradability? and is also environmentally friendly in the production phase. This material must also have a low cost.

Tale problema ? risolto da un materiale di rinforzo per pelletteria e calzature come definito nelle annesse rivendicazioni, le cui definizioni formano parte integrante della presente descrizione ai fini della sufficienza di descrizione. Such a problem ? resolved by a reinforcing material for leather goods and footwear as defined in the attached claims, the definitions of which form an integral part of the present description for the purposes of the description being sufficient.

Oggetto della presente invenzione ? un materiale di rinforzo per pelletteria o calzature, costituito da uno strato di supporto in cotone impregnato con un polimero biodegradabile a base acquosa di natura poliuretanica alifatica in cui la superficie del materiale di rinforzo ? smerigliata. Si annoverano tra le alternative non biodegradabili le resine poliacriliche morbide (Tg <0), lattice naturale o SBR ? styrene butadiene rubber- morbidi. Object of the present invention ? a reinforcing material for leather goods or footwear, consisting of a support layer of cotton impregnated with a water-based biodegradable polymer of an aliphatic polyurethane nature in which the surface of the reinforcing material is ? frosted. Are soft polyacrylic resins (Tg <0), natural latex or SBR among the non-biodegradable alternatives? styrene butadiene rubber- soft.

Un ulteriore oggetto ? un articolo di pelletteria o calzatura comprendente il materiale di rinforzo secondo l?invenzione accoppiato ad uno strato di pelle. An additional item? an article of leather goods or footwear comprising the reinforcing material according to the invention coupled to a layer of leather.

Ancora un altro oggetto dell?invenzione ? un procedimento per l?ottenimento del materiale di rinforzo secondo l?invenzione, comprendente le seguenti fasi: Yet another object of invention? a process for obtaining the reinforcing material according to the invention, comprising the following steps:

a) impregnazione di un tessuto di cotone con detto polimero impregnante mediante impianto per impregnazione a foulard; a) impregnating a cotton fabric with said impregnating polymer by means of a foulard impregnation plant;

b) asciugatura mediante rameuse; b) drying with a stenter;

c) smerigliatura delle superfici di entrambe le facce del tessuto impregnato e asciugato. c) sanding of the surfaces of both sides of the impregnated and dried fabric.

Ulteriori caratteristiche e vantaggi della presente invenzione risulteranno maggiormente dalla descrizione di alcuni esempi di realizzazione, fatta qui di seguito a titolo indicativo e non limitativo. Further characteristics and advantages of the present invention will become clearer from the description of some embodiments, given hereinafter for indicative and non-limiting purposes.

Descrizione dettagliata dell?invenzione Detailed description of the invention

Il materiale di rinforzo secondo la presente invenzione ? costituito da uno strato di supporto in cotone impregnato con un polimero impregnante biodegradabile a base acquosa di natura poliuretanica alifatica in cui la superficie del materiale di rinforzo ? smerigliata. The reinforcing material according to the present invention ? made up of a cotton support layer impregnated with a water-based biodegradable impregnating polymer of aliphatic polyurethane nature in which the surface of the reinforcing material? frosted.

Si annoverano tra le alternative non biodegradabili le resine poliacriliche morbide (Tg <0), lattice naturale o SBR ? styrene butadiene rubber- morbidi. Are soft polyacrylic resins (Tg <0), natural latex or SBR among the non-biodegradable alternatives? styrene butadiene rubber- soft.

Con il termine ?costituito da?, ai fini della presente invenzione, si intende sia ?comprendente? che ?consistente in?. Il termine ?comprendente? a sua volta indica la possibile presenza di altri componenti in associazione a strato di cotone e polimero impregnante e/o la possibile presenza, su una o entrambe le facce del materiale di rinforzo come sopra definito, di un film di adesivo. Il termine ?comprendente?, viceversa, indica la presenza di altri strati o film al di fuori di quelli fin qui definiti. The term ?consisting of?, for the purposes of the present invention, is meant to be ?comprising? which ?consisting of?. The term ?comprising? in turn indicates the possible presence of other components in association with a layer of cotton and impregnating polymer and/or the possible presence, on one or both faces of the reinforcing material as defined above, of an adhesive film. Conversely, the term ?comprising? indicates the presence of other layers or films other than those defined up to now.

In forme di realizzazione preferite, lo strato di supporto ? realizzato in tessuto di cotone a maglia circolare (jersey) oppure in tessuto di cotone a maglia ortogonale. Pi? preferibilmente ? un jersey di cotone. In preferred embodiments, the support layer is made of circular knit cotton fabric (jersey) or orthogonal knit cotton fabric. Pi? preferably ? a cotton jersey.

Il jersey di cotone, grazie alla sua natura chimica permette di soddisfare il requisito di biodegradabilit?, mentre la sua struttura a maglia circolare garantisce una mano rotonda, facilmente modellabile e deformabile durante la fase applicativa, oltre che un?elevata stabilit? dimensionale al taglio. Cotton jersey, thanks to its chemical nature, makes it possible to meet the biodegradability requirement, while its circular knit structure guarantees a round hand that is easily modeled and deformable during the application phase, as well as high stability. dimensional when cut.

In forme di realizzazione preferite, il polimero impregnante ? una dispersione acquosa poliuretanica ottenuta per polimerizzazione di esametilenediisocianato (HDI) e acido adipico-1,6-esandiolo. Preferibilmente, tale polimero ha un peso molecolare medio ponderale di circa 330.000, una temperatura di transizione vetrosa (Tg) di circa -53?C e una distribuzione della dimensione delle particelle con moda di circa 160 nm. A titolo indicativo, tale polimero si degrada in 52 giorni con un indice di biodegradabilit? pari all?82% secondo la normativa ISO 14855-1 (2012). In preferred embodiments, the impregnating polymer is a polyurethane aqueous dispersion obtained by polymerization of hexamethylenediisocyanate (HDI) and adipic-1,6-hexanediol acid. Preferably, such a polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 330,000, a glass transition temperature (Tg) of about -53°C, and a particle size distribution with mode of about 160 nm. As an indication, this polymer degrades in 52 days with a biodegradability index of? equal to 82% according to ISO 14855-1 (2012).

Il materiale di rinforzo secondo l?invenzione pu? essere ottenuto, a partire da un tessuto di cotone come strato di supporto, mediante il seguente procedimento, comprendente le seguenti fasi in sequenza: The reinforcing material according to the invention can be obtained, starting from a cotton fabric as a support layer, by the following procedure, comprising the following phases in sequence:

a) impregnazione di un tessuto di cotone con detto polimero impregnante mediante impianto per impregnazione a foulard; a) impregnating a cotton fabric with said impregnating polymer by means of a foulard impregnation plant;

b) asciugatura mediante rameuse; b) drying with a stenter;

c) smerigliatura delle superfici di entrambe le facce del tessuto impregnato e asciugato. c) sanding of the surfaces of both sides of the impregnated and dried fabric.

La rameuse ? una macchina convenzionalmente utilizzata per un?asciugatura rapida ad elevata temperatura che permette un veloce termofissaggio dell?impregnante. The stenter? a machine conventionally used for rapid drying at high temperatures which allows rapid thermosetting of the impregnating agent.

Il tessuto di cotone, che viene preventivamente fatto passare attraverso un gruppo raddrizza-trama, in modo da ottenere un tessuto ben teso, passa quindi attraverso un modulo di impregnazione a foulard. Dopo l?impregnazione con il polimero come sopra definito, il tessuto passa per un cilindro allargatore, quindi attraverso la rameuse, dove una serie di bruciatoriasciugatori provvedono all?asciugatura/termofissaggio del polimero impregnato nel tessuto di cotone. il tessuto viene fatto passare attraverso griglie . The cotton fabric, which is previously made to pass through a weft-straightener unit, so as to obtain a tightly taut fabric, then passes through a foulard impregnation module. After impregnation with the polymer as defined above, the fabric passes through an expanding cylinder, then through the stenter, where a series of burners/dryers provide for the drying/thermosetting of the polymer impregnated into the cotton fabric. the fabric is passed through grids.

Il materiale di rinforzo viene quindi riavvolto in una bobina al termine del trattamento. The reinforcing material is then rewound into a coil at the end of the treatment.

Dopo le fasi di impregnazione e asciugatura in rameuse il materiale di rinforzo subisce un processo di smerigliatura da entrambi i lati, finissaggio fondamentale per il conferimento delle caratteristiche ricercate sopra citate e per il conferimento del tatto ?vellutato? o ?scamosciato? che contraddistingue questa particolare classe di materiali di rinforzo. La smerigliatura inoltre ? utile anche per poter fare aderire pi? facilmente alla superficie del materiale di rinforzo i mastici adesivi frequentemente utilizzati dai calzaturifici o in alternativa per poter fare aderire meglio un film di adesivo estruso accoppiato. After the impregnation and drying phases in the stenter, the reinforcing material undergoes a grinding process on both sides, a fundamental finishing for conferring the aforementioned sought-after characteristics and for conferring the ?velvety? or ?suede? that distinguishes this particular class of reinforcing materials. Also the grinding? also useful for being able to join more? easily to the surface of the reinforcing material the adhesive mastics frequently used by shoe factories or alternatively to be able to make a coupled extruded adhesive film adhere better.

La macchina smerigliatrice per tessuto ? un?apparecchiatura convenzionale, in cui il tessuto viene fatto ruotare su cilindri di passaggio, mantenuto ben teso da ?tendi-pezza? per evitare pieghe, e strofinato da un rullo ricoperto di carta smeriglio a grana fine. I diversi effetti vengono ottenuti con l'uso di pi? rulli, con la differente grana della carta smeriglio e con la distanza del rullo dal tessuto. Questa ? regolata da cilindri di pressione che lo allontanano o avvicinano alla superficie abrasiva. Un apposito sistema di aspirazione raccoglie il fine pulviscolo prodotto dalla lavorazione. The fabric grinder machine ? a conventional apparatus, in which the fabric is rotated on passage cylinders, kept tightly taut by a ?cloth-stretcher? to avoid creases, and rubbed by a roller covered with fine-grained emery paper. The different effects are obtained with the use of more? rollers, with the different grit of the emery paper and with the distance of the roller from the fabric. This ? regulated by pressure cylinders which move it away from or approach the abrasive surface. A special suction system collects the fine dust produced by the processing.

In certe forme di realizzazione, il materiale di rinforzo pu? essere pre-accoppiato, su una o su entrambe le facce, ad un film di adesivo estruso, in modo da facilitare la successiva applicazione alla pelle da parte del produttore di articoli di pelletteria o calzature. In certain embodiments, the reinforcing material may be pre-coupled, on one or both sides, to an extruded adhesive film, so as to facilitate subsequent application to the leather by the leather goods or footwear manufacturer.

Il materiale di rinforzo dell?invenzione risulta essere idrorepellente (secondo il ?non-wicking test? ossia la non-risalita per capillarit?) senza aggiunta di ausiliari chimici, aspetto di notevole importanza data la natura particolarmente idrofila dei tessuti a base cotone. Questa caratteristica intrinseca permette di evitare l?utilizzo di additivi chimici che concorrerebbero alla diminuzione delle caratteristiche di biodegradabilit? ed ecocompatibilit? del prodotto, che invece in questo modo, risultano preservate. The reinforcing material of the invention is water-repellent (according to the "non-wicking test" ie the non-wicking by capillarity) without the addition of chemical auxiliaries, an aspect of considerable importance given the particularly hydrophilic nature of cotton-based fabrics. This intrinsic characteristic makes it possible to avoid the use of chemical additives which would contribute to the reduction of the biodegradability characteristics. and eco-compatibility? of the product, which instead in this way are preserved.

Il materiale di rinforzo dell?invenzione ha propriet? anti-piega, effetto antiscivolo ed estrema morbidezza/rotondit?, risultando al tatto liscio e vellutato per scongiurare eventuali alterazioni alla mano di pellami e/o tomaie particolarmente sottili. The reinforcing material of the invention has properties anti-crease, anti-slip effect and extreme softness/roundness, resulting in a smooth and velvety touch to prevent any alterations to the hand of particularly thin leathers and/or uppers.

Il materiale di rinforzo dell?invenzione permette inoltre una riduzione dei tempi di lavorazione grazie all?ottima scarnitura, che permette all?utilizzatore finale (tranciatore/calzaturificio) di risparmiare il secondo passaggio di smussatura, la sua compatibilit? con mastici adesivi tipici nell?uso applicativo presso i calzaturifici ed in generale la facile lavorabilit? e deformabilit?. The reinforcing material of the invention also allows a reduction in processing times thanks to the excellent skiving, which allows the end user (slicer/shoe factory) to save the second chamfering step, its compatibility? with typical adhesive mastics in the application use at shoe factories and in general the easy workability? and deformability.

I principali vantaggi del processo di produzione se confrontato con i procedimenti a coagulazione dell?arte nota, derivanti dalla diversa tipologia di impianto, riguardano: The main advantages of the production process when compared with the coagulation processes of the known art, deriving from the different type of plant, concern:

- l?eliminazione delle piastre ad infrarosso per la coagulazione del legante; - the elimination of the infrared plates for the coagulation of the binder;

- l?eliminazione conseguente dell?uso di additivi quali coagulanti, dannosi per l?ambiente; - the consequent elimination of the use of additives such as coagulants, which are harmful to the environment;

- l?eliminazione della fase di lavaggio dopo la coagulazione con il duplice vantaggio relativo sia al risparmio idrico che ai costi derivanti dall?eventuale smaltimento dei rifiuti delle acque di processo. - the elimination of the washing phase after coagulation with the double advantage relating to both water saving and costs deriving from the possible disposal of process water waste.

Il materiale dell?invenzione pu? costituire un componente di rinforzo creato accoppiando tale prodotto ad uno strato di pellame con cui possono essere fabbricate calzature di vario tipo, in particolare la tomaia di tali calzature, e articoli di pelletteria quali borse, zaini, giacche, ecc? ? evidente che sono state descritte solo alcune forme particolari di realizzazione della presente invenzione, cui l?esperto dell?arte sar? in grado di apportare tutte quelle modifiche necessarie per il suo adattamento a particolari applicazioni, senza peraltro discostarsi dall?ambito di protezione della presente invenzione. The material of the invention can? constitute a reinforcing component created by coupling this product to a layer of leather with which footwear of various types can be manufactured, in particular the upper of such footwear, and leather goods such as bags, backpacks, jackets, etc.? ? It is evident that only some particular embodiments of the present invention have been described, to which the expert in the art will be capable of making all the modifications necessary for its adaptation to particular applications, without however departing from the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims (9)

RIVENDICAZIONI 1. Materiale di rinforzo per pelletteria o calzature, costituito da uno strato di supporto in cotone impregnato con un polimero biodegradabile a base acquosa di natura poliuretanica alifatica, in cui la superficie del materiale di rinforzo ? smerigliata.1. Reinforcing material for leather goods or footwear, consisting of a support layer of cotton impregnated with a water-based biodegradable polymer of an aliphatic polyurethane nature, in which the surface of the reinforcing material is ? frosted. 2. Materiale di rinforzo secondo la rivendicazione 1, in cui lo strato di supporto ? realizzato in tessuto di cotone a maglia circolare (jersey) oppure in tessuto di cotone a maglia ortogonale.2. The reinforcing material according to claim 1, wherein the support layer is made of circular knit cotton fabric (jersey) or orthogonal knit cotton fabric. 3. Materiale di rinforzo secondo la rivendicazione 1 o 2, in cui il polimero impregnante ? una dispersione acquosa di polimero poliuretanico ottenuta per polimerizzazione di esametilenediisocianato (HDI) e acido adipico-1,6-esandiolo.3. Reinforcing material according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the impregnating polymer is an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane polymer obtained by polymerization of hexamethylenediisocyanate (HDI) and adipic-1,6-hexanediol acid. 4. Materiale di rinforzo secondo la rivendicazione 3, in cui detto polimero ha un peso molecolare medio ponderale di circa 330.000, una temperatura di transizione vetrosa (Tg) di circa -53?C e una distribuzione della dimensione delle particelle con moda di circa 160 nm.The reinforcing material of claim 3 wherein said polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 330,000, a glass transition temperature (Tg) of about -53°C, and a mode particle size distribution of about 160 n. 5. Materiale di rinforzo secondo una qualsiasi delle rivendicazioni da 1 a 4, in cui su uno o entrambi i lati ? accoppiato un film di adesivo estruso.5. Reinforcing material according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein on one or both sides ? coupled with an extruded adhesive film. 6. Materiale di rinforzo secondo una qualsiasi delle rivendicazioni da 1 a 5, in cui detto materiale di rinforzo ha un indice di biodegradabilit? di almeno 90% secondo la normativa ISO 14855-1 (2012).6. Reinforcing material according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said reinforcing material has a biodegradability index of ? of at least 90% according to ISO 14855-1 (2012). 7. Materiale di rinforzo secondo una qualsiasi delle rivendicazioni da 1 a 6, in cui detto materiale di rinforzo ? intrinsecamente idrorepellente come determinato con il ?non-wicking test?, ha propriet? anti-piega e propriet? anti-scivolo.7. Reinforcing material according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said reinforcing material is intrinsically water repellent as determined with the ?non-wicking test?, has properties? anti-crease and property? anti-slip. 8. Articolo di pelletteria o calzatura comprendente il materiale di rinforzo secondo una qualsiasi delle rivendicazioni da 1 a 7 accoppiato ad uno strato di pelle.8. Article of leather goods or footwear comprising the reinforcing material according to any one of claims 1 to 7 coupled to a layer of leather. 9. Procedimento per l?ottenimento del materiale di rinforzo secondo una qualsiasi delle rivendicazioni da 1 a 7, comprendente le seguenti fasi:9. Process for obtaining the reinforcing material according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the following steps: a) impregnazione di un tessuto di cotone con detto polimero impregnante mediante impianto per impregnazione a foulard;a) impregnating a cotton fabric with said impregnating polymer by means of a foulard impregnation plant; b) asciugatura mediante rameuse;b) drying with a stenter; c) smerigliatura delle superfici di entrambe le facce del tessuto impregnato e asciugato. c) sanding of the surfaces of both sides of the impregnated and dried fabric.
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