JP2000290846A - Different shrinkage composite mixed yarn and its woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a differently shrinkable composite combined filament yarn capable of providing a woven fabric and a knitted fabric having excellent dry feeling, smooth feeling, natural uneven feeling, a three-color grain, swelling feeling and water repellency by making the combined filament yarn include a polyamide-based filament yarn having thickness and thinness. SOLUTION: This combined filament yarn is the one which is composed of two or more yarn having >=2% difference in shrinkage percentage in boiling water (one is a polyamide-based filament yarn or a polyester-based filament yarn) and comprises one or more polyamide-based filament yarns 8 having thickness and thinness. The differently shrinkable composite combined filament yarn has been subjected to interlacing processing. Preferably, the unevenness of thickness in the length direction of the polyamide-based filament yarn 8 having thickness and thinness is 5-20% by Uster normal U%, the standard variation of stress at 40% elongation point of a stress-strain curve of 20 cm length of sample is <=0.3 g/d, the stress at a secondary yield point is >=0.6 g/d, the elongation at break is 60-200% and the dry heat shrinkage percentage at 160 deg.C is preferably <=10%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a hetero-shrink composite yarn and, more particularly, to a woven or knitted fabric which has a swelling feeling and which is excellent in a dry feeling, a smooth feeling, and a natural spot feeling. The present invention relates to a hetero-shrinkage composite mixed fiber that can be used, and particularly can be widely used as sports clothing and the like.

[0002]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Mixed yarns or loop yarns made of polyamide filaments and their fabrics have been produced in large quantities for apparel, industrial and interior applications due to their excellent fabric properties. However, these woven fabrics, especially woven fabrics obtained from nylon 6 and nylon 66 fibers, have a poor dryness like polyester fabrics and have a slimy feeling and a soft feeling.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open (JP-A) No. 63-21335 discloses that thick and thin polyamide-based long fiber yarns provide a surface effect having a difference in light and light dyeing, and a woven or knitted fabric provides elasticity. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-191510 proposes a multifilament yarn having a small difference in shading and color between a thick portion and a small portion. No good polyamide fabric has been obtained.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn containing polyamide filaments having a large and small thickness and a woven fabric thereof, and to maintain the excellent woven fabric properties thereof.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn, a woven fabric, and a knitted fabric having a swelling feeling, a dry feeling, a smooth feeling, and a natural spot feeling with an improved slimy feeling.

[0005]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention employs the following constitution. That is, (1) a mixed fiber consisting of two or more kinds having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 2% or more, wherein at least one kind includes a polyamide long fiber yarn having a large diameter and a small diameter. Shrink composite yarn.

(2) The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to the above (1), which is interlaced.

(3) The mixed-shrink composite yarn according to the above (1) or (2), wherein the other one is composed of a polyamide filament yarn.

(4) The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to the above (1) or (2), wherein the other one is composed of a polyester filament yarn.

(5) The different shrinkage composite mixed fiber yarn according to (4), wherein the polyester filament yarn is a cationic dyeable polyester.

(6) The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn has a core-sheath type structure, and the thick polyamide thin fiber yarn exists as a core yarn side and / or a sheath yarn side. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of (1) to (5).

(7) Thickness unevenness in the longitudinal direction of the polyamide-based long fiber yarn having a thickness of 5 to 5% in Uster normal U%
The standard deviation of the stress at the 40% elongation point of the stress-strain curve at a sample length of 20 cm at 20% of not more than 0.3 g / d is not more than 0.3 g / d, according to any one of the above (1) to (6). Different shrinkage composite mixed yarn.

(8) A wister normal U% chart of thick and thin polyamide-based filament yarns, characterized in that the number of thickness fluctuation peaks of 4% or more is 10 pieces / m (yarn length) or more. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (7).

(9) The relationship between 1/2 inert (H value) and normal (N value) is H / N ≦ 0.8 in a wool U% of a polyamide long fiber yarn having a large thickness. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (8), which is characterized by the following.

(10) A sample length of a polyamide-based multifilament of a polyamide-based filament yarn having a thickness of 20 c
m, the stress at the secondary yield point is 0.6 g / d or more, and the elongation at break is 60 to 200.
%, The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (9).

(11) The different shrinkage according to any one of the above (1) to (10), wherein the polyamide long fiber yarn having a thickness of 0.3 mm has a dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C. of 10% or less. Composite mixed yarn.

(12) The degree of entanglement of the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn is 10
The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (11), wherein the number is in the range of 1 / m to 200 / m.

(13) The hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn according to any one of (1) to (12), wherein the single fiber fineness of at least one kind of filament yarn is 1.2 denier or less.

(14) A woven fabric, wherein the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of (1) to (13) is used for a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn.

(15) A knitted fabric using the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of (1) to (13).

[0020]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The different shrinkage composite mixed yarn of the present invention is a mixed yarn composed of two or more types having at least a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 2% or more, and at least one type having a thick and thin polyamide yarn. It is characterized by including a fiber yarn.

The fact that the fiber yarns constituting the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarns are thick and thin tends to cause fine irregularities on the surface of the woven fabric, and these fine irregularities cause a dry feeling, a smooth feeling and a natural spot feeling. As a result, the slimy feeling, which has been a disadvantage in the past, is improved.

In this case, the thickness unevenness in the length direction of the thick polyamide long fiber yarn is preferably 5 to 20% in Uster normal U%. By setting U% to 5 to 20%, and more preferably to 6 to 15%, the contrast of shading by dyeing is small, and a natural spot feeling is emphasized.

The polyamide-based long fiber yarn having a large thickness and a small thickness,
40% of the stress-strain curve at a sample length of 20 cm
The standard deviation of the elongation stress at 10 repeated measurements is preferably 0.3 g / d or less, more preferably 0.2 g / d or less. More preferably, 0.
It is less than 15 g / d. The above standard deviation is 0.3 g / d
What is described below means that the thick and thin cycle length is substantially 20 cm or less, and that the thick part and the detail are mixed in the cross-sectional direction of the multifilament. More preferably, the above-mentioned standard deviation is less than 0.15 g / d, and the cycle length of the thin and thick lines is further reduced to substantially 2.5 cm or less. When the thick and thin cycle lengths are shortened and the thick part and the detail are mixed, a natural spot feeling is emphasized.

In the worst normal U% chart of the thick polyamide filament fiber, it is preferable that the number of peaks with a thickness variation of 4% or more is 10 / m (yarn length) or more. More preferably, it is 15 yarns / m (yarn length) or more.
A more effective shade contrast can be obtained by a thickness variation of 4% or more, and a smooth and elegant dry feeling can be obtained by the presence of a large number.

It is preferable that the relationship between 1/2 inert (H value) and normal (N value) is H / N ≦ 0.8 in the wool U% of the thick polyamide filament fiber yarn. More preferably, it is less than 0.6. This is to reduce the イ inert value of the Wooster U%, and eliminate long and large unevenness in the length direction of the multifilament ranging from several tens cm to several meters.

The stress-strain curve of a thick and thin polyamide-based filament yarn at a sample length of 20 cm shows a secondary yield point stress of 0.6 g / d or more and a breaking elongation of 6 g / d.
It is preferably set to 0 to 200%. More preferably, the secondary yield point stress is 0.8 g / d or more, and the breaking elongation is 80
~ 160%. More preferably, the secondary yield point stress is 0.9 g / d or more, and the breaking elongation is 90 to 140%. By setting the secondary yield point stress to 0.6 g / d or more,
Even when the total denier of the polyamide-based multifilament is smaller, permanent distortion in the knitting process can be suppressed, which is effective. The elongation at break is 60-2.
By setting the content to 00%, fuzz in the weaving step is suppressed, and a light and dark contrast with a short cycle length due to dyeing is obtained, and a natural spot feeling can be obtained.

[0027] 1) thick and thin polyamide filament yarn
Preferably, the dry heat shrinkage at 60 ° C. is 10% or less.
It is more preferably at most 9%. More preferably 8%
It is as follows. By setting the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. to 10% or less, more excellent color fastness can be obtained.

The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn of the present invention preferably has a core-sheath type structure, and a polyamide long fiber yarn having a large and small thickness is present as a core yarn, a sheath yarn, or a core yarn and a sheath yarn. is important.

It is important that the different shrinkage composite mixed yarns of the present invention have different boiling water shrinkage rates. Different shrinkage ratios of boiling water exhibit different shrinkage effects, and increase the swelling feeling in the dyeing and finishing step.

It is important that the difference in boiling water shrinkage ratio be 2% or more in order to impart a swelling feeling. If the difference in boiling water shrinkage is less than 2%, the feeling of swelling will be poor. In order to emphasize the swelling, the difference in boiling water shrinkage is more preferably 4% or more. The difference in the boiling water shrinkage is obtained by measuring the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn and the sheath yarn and calculating the difference.

The structure of the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn of the present invention is as follows: a polyamide filament filament having a thick core and a polyamide filament filament are used for a sheath yarn, or a polyamide filament filament is used for a sheath yarn. The use of polyamide filament yarn for the core and polyamide filament yarn for the core yarn eliminates slime that is not present in conventional polyamide fabrics, and provides dryness, dryness, natural spotting, and excellent swelling. Is preferred.

Further, the use of thick polyamide thin filaments in the core yarn and the sheath yarn, and the use of thick polyamide thin filaments in three or more yarns for blending are further achieved. It is also possible to obtain a unique texture by emphasizing the dry, smooth, and mottled feeling.

Further, by giving the core yarn and the sheath yarn a difference in the boiling water shrinkage, the feeling of swelling increases due to the different shrinkage effect,
It is possible to impart a swelling sensation in addition to a dry sensation, a dry sensation, and a natural plaque. At this time, by using a polyamide long fiber yarn having a thick and thin sheath component, it is easy to float on the surface of the woven fabric, and a dry feeling, a dry feeling, and a mottled feeling can be emphasized.

As a method for imparting a difference in boiling water shrinkage of the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed fiber of the present invention, a core-sheath component as a raw material may have a difference in boiling water shrinkage, and a heater or the like may be used. The sheath yarn component may be used to reduce the shrinkage. The processing method at this time is not particularly limited. Also, the method of combining a high shrinkage yarn with a core yarn and a low shrinkage yarn with a sheath yarn increases the swelling feeling.

Further, by using a polyamide long fiber yarn having a thick core and a polyester long fiber yarn as a sheath yarn, or by using a polyamide long fiber yarn having a thick and thin sheath yarn, By using polyester filament yarn for the yarn, polyester and polyamide can be dyed separately. If the thickness difference of thick and thin yarn of polyamide is included, a feeling of three colors is obtained and a more complex and natural spot is obtained. be able to. Further, by using the polyester-based long fiber as a cationic dyeable component, clear color development and stable dyeing fastness can be obtained.

Further, by using fine denier yarn for the core yarn and / or the sheath yarn, it is possible to further impart a soft feeling. At this time, the softness can be emphasized by setting the fineness of the single yarn denier to 1.2 denier or less, preferably 0.8 denier or less.

The degree of entanglement of the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn of the present invention is 10
~ 200 / m is preferable, and the degree of confounding is 10 / m
If it is less than 3, the yarn is displaced in rewinding, twisting, a process, and the like, and the high-order passage property is extremely poor, making it difficult to handle. Also,
If it is more than 200 / m, the yarn is too tight, and the effect of different shrinkage is hardly exhibited. Therefore the confounding degree is 10-20
The range of 0 / m is preferable, and more preferably 40 to 10
The range is 0 / m.

In the method for producing a different shrinkage composite mixed yarn of the present invention, the different shrinkage composite mixed yarn may be processed in one step, or may be separated into two steps, three steps, or the like.

As a method for producing the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn of the present invention, for example, the thick polyamide thin fiber yarn of the present invention is used as a sheath yarn, the polyamide long fiber yarn as a core yarn, and two yarns are used. There is a method of blending, or a method of heat treating a polyamide-based long fiber yarn having a thick and thin sheath yarn to reduce its shrinkage and then blending with a core yarn. By reducing the shrinkage of the sheath component, a different shrinkage effect with the core yarn is exhibited, and it is possible to increase the swelling feeling. Also, by using a polyester-based long fiber high shrinkage yarn as the core yarn, it is possible to further enhance the swelling feeling.

As a method of reducing the shrinkage of the sheath yarn, a method of performing heat treatment with a heater is preferable.
The temperature is preferably set to 200 ° C. When the temperature is lower than 80 ° C, the heat setting effect is small. When the temperature is higher than 200 ° C, the polyamide component is easily fused, and the temperature is preferably 80 to 200 ° C, more preferably 130 to 180 ° C. The relaxation rate of the heat set is preferably in the range of 0% to 10%, and 0%
If it is less than 10%, the heat setting effect is small, and if it exceeds 10%, the yarn easily sags and processing becomes unstable, which is not preferable. The heater may be a non-contact heater or a contact heater.

As a method of mixing fibers, a method of forming entanglement by using a mixing fiber nozzle such as an interlace nozzle is preferable.

It is preferable that the core yarn and the sheath yarn are aligned and mixed, but the supply amount may be varied as long as the loop does not sag. The air pressure at this time is 0.5 to 5.0 kg
/ Cm ² is preferred. If it is less than 0.5 kg / cm ^2, it is difficult to form confounding, and if the air pressure is more than 5.0 kg / cm ² , confounding tends to be dense and the effect of different shrinkage decreases, which is not preferable. More preferably, 1.5 to 3.5 kg /
cm ² . The overfeed rate during confounding processing is 0
4% is preferred. If it is less than 0%, confounding is hardly formed,
When the overfeed rate is more than 4%, the overfeed rate is preferably 0% to 4%, more preferably 0.5% to 2%, because tarmi tends to occur.

It is preferable that the composite mixed yarn of the present invention has substantially no loops or pallets on the yarn surface.

The thick and thin polyamide-based filament yarn used for the composite mixed yarn of the present invention has a birefringence Δn of 20 × 10
^-3 or less, when drawing a polyamide-based multifilament undrawn yarn at a low magnification to produce a thick and thin yarn, false-twisting between a supply roller and a drawing roller, 1.5 to 2.5
It is obtained by stretching twice and heat setting at 100 to 200 ° C.

By setting the birefringence Δn of the polyamide multifilament undrawn yarn to 20 × 10 ⁻³ or less, swelling in the vertical direction due to moisture absorption can be suppressed, and stable quality can be obtained. In addition, the position of the stretching start point is slightly fluctuated in the vicinity of the heat setting device and / or within a narrow range of the entrance of the heat setting device by performing low-magnification stretching in the range of 1.5 to 2.5 times. This is because you can do it.

Here, the surface temperature of the supply roller is preferably 80 ° C. or less. The temperature is more preferably 70 ° C. or lower, and further preferably 50 ° C. or lower. This is because the lower the surface temperature of the supply roller, the more the position of the stretching start point can be slightly changed in the vicinity of the heat setting device and / or within a narrow range of the entrance of the heat setting device.

For the false twisting method, a conventionally known false twisting tool can be used. In particular, a fluid swirling nozzle is suitably used. By performing false twisting and ballooning on the yarn running in the stretching zone with the fluid swirling nozzle at a stretching stress of 0.3 to 0.6 g / d in the low-magnification stretching, first, the yarn on the upstream side of the fluid swirling nozzle is formed. Gives a small and random deformation in the length direction of the yarn constituting the yarn by torsional deformation due to false twisting, and the yarn downstream of the fluid swirl nozzle is subsequently untwisted. Is intermittently contacted with the heat setting device, and the drawing start point position fluctuates, so that the thick yarn portion and the fine yarn portion are finely dispersed in the length direction of the multifilament and the direction between the single yarns. For this reason, it is possible to obtain a thin yarn having a short cycle length of less than 20 cm without being affected by the length of the drawing zone. As a result, thread spots are reduced, and contrast with a long cycle length during dyeing is greatly reduced, but a light and dark contrast with a short cycle length can be obtained. As a result, a marbling effect can be obtained, and a natural spot feeling can be obtained. As described above, the actions of false twisting and ballooning are important for obtaining a thick and thin yarn having a short periodicity.

The heat setting method of the false twist is not particularly limited. For example, it is preferable to set the tension heat by using a hot stretching roller, a hot plate, a hot pin, or the like.

The heat setting temperature of the false twist is preferably 100 to 200 ° C., more preferably 120 to 160 ° C.
It is.

A woven fabric using the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn containing the thick polyamide long fiber yarn as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, or a hetero-shrinkage containing a thick polyamide thin fiber filament yarn The knitted fabric using the composite mixed yarn has a swelling feeling due to a different shrinkage effect, and an excellent product in which a dry feeling, a smooth feeling, and a natural spot feeling are emphasized can be obtained.

By subjecting this woven fabric to a water-repellent treatment, a water-repellent woven fabric having an unprecedented dry feeling, smooth feeling and natural spot feeling can be obtained. The water-repellent agent and the water-repellent processing method are not particularly limited, and conventionally known processing agents and processing methods can be used.

For example, a water-repellent agent such as a fluorine-based, silicon-based, wax-based, and paraffin-based agent is padded by a padding method.
It is provided by an immersion method or a coating method. preferable.

In order to further increase the durability of water repellency, a melamine compound or an ethyleneimine compound is used in combination with a fluorine-based processing agent, and further, an aminoblast resin is used in a fluorine-based processing agent to further improve water-repellent abrasion resistance. It is also a preferred method to use a combination of a polyfunctional blocked isocyanate group-containing urethane resin and ethylene carbonate.

Next, a preferred manufacturing method of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 shows an example of a production method for obtaining a thick and thin yarn by using an undrawn yarn that has been once melt-spun and wound up. Undrawn yarn 1 having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ^-3 or less
Through the nip roller 2 and the first delivery roller 3
0.5-5k air pressure between the second delivery roller 5 and
g / cm ² using a fluid swirl nozzle 4, while the running yarn is ballooning, stretched at a low magnification of 1.5 to 2.5 times, and subsequently with a second delivery roller 5 at 100 ° C.
After heat setting at 200 ° C., it is wound up as a thick and thin thread 7 (a polyamide filament fiber thread having a thick and thin thread) via a third delivery roller 6.

FIG. 2 shows that the heater temperature 80 to 200 is applied between the first delivery roller 10 and the second delivery roller 12 by using the obtained thick and thin polyamide filament yarn 8.
After heat setting at 0 ° C. and a relaxation rate of 0 to 10%, it is aligned with the polyamide long fiber 9 and air pressure is 0.5 to 5 kg between the second delivery roller 12 and the third delivery roller 14 using an interlace nozzle. / Cm ^{2 An} entangled and mixed fiber with an overfeed rate of 0 to 4% and wound up as a hetero-shrinkage composite mixed fiber.

[0057]

The measuring method and the calculating method of the evaluation value according to the present invention are as follows. <Usta normal U%> The thickness unevenness in the length direction of the multifilament is indicated by a woster tester monitor C (USTE).
R TESTER MONITOR C).
Yarn speed 8m / min, twist (TWIST) S 1.5,
Yarn tension (1.5), measurement time (EVALUTION TIME) 1 minute, measurement mode is normal and 1/2 inert (H), average deviation rate U%
And record the waveform on a chart. The measured value is measured at any three points of the sample, and the average value is used. Further, the number of peaks with a thickness variation of 4% or more is measured from the normal chart, and the number of peaks per 1 m of yarn length is calculated. <Strong elongation / standard deviation of 40% elongation point stress> The strong elongation is measured with an Instron tensile tester. A stress-strain curve was obtained at a sample length of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 20 cm / min,
It is calculated from the fineness measured separately, and the average value of 10 repeated measurements is used. Further, the stress at the 40% elongation point is calculated from the obtained stress strain curve, and the standard deviation of the stress in 10 repeated measurements is calculated. <Secondary yield point stress> The secondary yield point tension is obtained from a stress-strain curve, calculated from fineness separately measured, and the average value of 10 repeated measurements is used. <Dry heat shrinkage> A scab sample was prepared using a scale, shrunk and adjusted for 2 hours, and then a 1/30 (g / d) load was applied.
After 0 second, the sample length is measured and set to L0. Both ends of the sample are placed in an oven type dryer in a free state and heat-treated at 160 ° C. for 20 minutes. Next, the sample after the dry heat treatment is taken out of the oven, and is left to cool and adjust the humidity in the room for 2 hours. A load of 1/30 (g / d) is again applied to the cooled and conditioned sample, and after 30 seconds, the sample length is measured to be L1. The dry heat shrinkage is determined by the following equation.

Dry heat shrinkage (%) = {(L0−L1) / L0} × 100 The measured value is measured at any five points of the sample, and the average value is used. <Boiling Water Shrinkage> A wrap reel having an appropriate peripheral frame is used to make a 20-turn wrap with an initial load of 1/10 (g / d). After removing the cassette from the wrap reel and leaving it to stand for 24 hours, an initial load of 1/30 g of the displayed denier is applied, and the length L2 of the cassette after 30 seconds is measured. The moss is wrapped in gauze and treated in boiling water for 30 minutes. The treated moss is taken out and left to stand for 12 hours or more after dehydration. After leaving the cassette, the initial load of 1/30 g of the indicated denier is applied, and L3 is measured. The boiling water shrinkage is determined from the following equation.

Boiling water shrinkage (%) = ｛(L2-L3) /
L2｝ × 100 Measured values are measured at any five points of the sample, and the average value is used. <Difference in boiling water shrinkage> The boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn and the sheath yarn is measured by the method described above, and is determined by the following equation.

Boiling water shrinkage difference (%) = Boiling water shrinkage (%) of core yarn-Boiling water shrinkage (%) of sheath yarn <Degree of confounding> A yarn of an appropriate length is taken out and 1 / 10
(G / d) and suspend vertically. Then pierce the thread with a suitable needle and lift gently. The distance (cm) at which the needle stops is measured 50 times, an average value L4 is calculated, and the degree of confounding is calculated from the following equation.

Example 1 A nylon 6 polymer having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.63 was melt spun at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. and a spinning speed of 800 m / min. Thus, a multifilament undrawn yarn of 220 denier and 24 filaments was obtained. This undrawn yarn is simultaneously drawn and false-twisted twice by the drawing device shown in FIG.
A 24-filament multifilament thick yarn was obtained.
Table 1 shows the conditions of the simultaneous false-twisting and the quality of the obtained thick and thin yarn.
Shown in

The resulting multifilament thick and thin yarn was used as a sheath yarn, and a 70 denier 24-filament nylon multifilament yarn was used as a core yarn.
2%, using interlace nozzle, air pressure 3.0k
Under the processing conditions of g / cm ² , a 180-denier 48-filament hetero-shrink composite mixed yarn was obtained.

The boiling water shrinkage of the sheath yarn of the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn is 5.0%, and the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is 9.5%.
Met.

The different shrinkage composite blended yarn was used for the weft, and the filament was glued without additional twist using 110 denier 24 filaments of a polyamide long fiber yarn having a thick and thin warp and woven with a water jet loom. At this time, the fabric structure was plain weave, and the fabric density was set to a warp density of 110 fibers / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 fibers / 2.54 cm.

The obtained greige was refined and preset by a conventional method, dyed with an acid dye by a jet dyeing machine, and dried. After drying, it was padded with a water-repellent solution containing the following components. The pickup of this processing liquid was 60%. Then 110
After drying at ℃ for 2 minutes, a heat treatment was performed at 160 ° C. for 45 seconds.

Fluorine-based water repellent Maxguard EC-400 60 g / L Sumitex Resin M-3, manufactured by Keishin Kasei Co., Ltd. 5 g / L Sumitex Accelerator, manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd. ACX manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd. 1 g / L Super Fresh JB-7200 8 g / L Catalyst WL-2 manufactured by Keishin Kasei Co., Ltd. 1 g / L manufactured by Keishin Kasei Co., Ltd. The woven woven fabric had a swelling feeling, was excellent in a dry feeling, a smooth feeling and a natural spot feeling, and was excellent in initial water repellency of 90 and water repellency. In addition, the excellent woven fabric characteristics of the polyamide-based long fiber woven fabric were maintained, and the color fastness was practical. [Example 2] A 70 denier 68 filament thick and thin yarn obtained by spinning and simultaneous drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 was heat-treated with a contact heater at a heater temperature of 160 ° C and a relaxation rate of 8%. Using a nylon multifilament yarn of 110 denier 24 filaments as a core yarn, an overdensity feed of 1.0%, an interlace nozzle, and a 180 denier 92 under an air pressure of 2.0 kg / cm ² processing conditions. A mixed-shrink composite yarn of a filament was obtained.

The boiling water shrinkage of the sheath yarn constituting the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn is 3.5%, and the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is 9.5%.
Met.

The different shrinkage composite mixed yarn was glued without warp twist using warp and weft, and woven by a water jet loom. At this time, the fabric structure is plain weave, the fabric density is 90 warp / 2.54 cm, and the weft density is 72 warp / 2.54 cm.
Set to.

The obtained greige was subjected to refining, presetting, dyeing, drying and water-repellent treatment by the same treatment agent and method as in Example 1.

The obtained woven fabric composed of thick polyamide filament fibers has a more swelling feeling than the woven fabric of Example 1, and is excellent in dry feeling, smooth feeling, natural spot feeling, soft feeling, and initial feeling. The fabric was excellent in water repellency of 90 and water repellency. In addition, the excellent woven fabric characteristics of the polyamide-based long fiber woven fabric were maintained, and the color fastness was practical. Comparative Example 1 Using a nylon 6 polymer, a 110-denier, 24-filament multifilament yarn obtained by ordinary spinning direct drawing was used as a core yarn, and a 70-denier 34-filament nylon multifilament yarn was used as a sheath yarn. Using a 1.0% feed and an interlace nozzle, under the processing conditions of an air pressure of 3.0 kg / cm ² , a 180-denier 58-filament hetero-shrink composite mixed yarn was obtained.

The boiling water shrinkage of the sheath yarn constituting the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn is 10.3%, and the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is 9.5.
%Met.

Using this mixed yarn as the weft, weaving was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The fabric structure and fabric density at this time were also set in the same manner as in the example.

The obtained greige was subjected to refining, presetting, dyeing, drying and water-repellent treatment by the same treatment agent and method as in Example 1.

The obtained polyamide long-fiber woven fabric had excellent woven fabric characteristics which are characteristic of polyamide long-fiber woven fabric, and had an initial water repellency of 90 and was excellent in water repellency.
However, the fabric texture was poor in swelling feeling, was dry and smooth, and was slimy. The surface of the woven fabric was very uniform without any natural spotting. Example 3 Polyester cation-dyeable multifilament of 75 denier and 36 filaments, using the obtained 110 denier and 24 filament thick and thin yarns obtained by spinning and simultaneous drawing false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1, as the core yarn Using a yarn as a sheath yarn, an over-rate feed of 1.0%, an interlace nozzle was used, and a different-shrinkage composite mixed yarn of 60 filaments of 185 denier was obtained under an air pressure of 2.0 kg / cm ² under processing conditions.

The boiling water shrinkage of the sheath yarn constituting the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn is 5.0%, and the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is 8.5%.
Met.

Using this different shrinkage composite mixed yarn for warp and weft, weaving was performed in the same manner as in Example 2. The fabric structure and fabric density at this time were also set in the same manner as in the example.

The obtained greige was dyed with an acid dye and a cationic dye by a refining, presetting and jet dyeing machine using the same treating agent and method as in Example 1, and dried and water-repellent.

The obtained woven fabric composed of thick polyamide filament fibers has a swelling feeling as in Example 1.
Excellent dry feeling and smooth feeling.
The fabric was natural and mottled due to the color heather. Also,
The initial water repellency was 90 and the water repellency was excellent, and the color fastness was practical.

[0079]

[Table 1]

[0080]

[Table 2]

[0081]

[Table 3]

[0082]

According to the present invention, a woven fabric excellent in dryness, smoothness, natural spotting, three-color heather, swelling and water repellency, which cannot be obtained with the conventional polyamide long fiber fabric, A knit was obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a drawing device for producing a thick and thin yarn using an undrawn yarn applied to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of an apparatus for producing a polyamide hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn using a thick polyamide thin fiber yarn applied to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: Undrawn yarn 2: Supply roller 3: First delivery roller 4: Fluid swirl nozzle 5: Second delivery roller 6: Third delivery roller 7: Thick and thin yarn 8: Thick and thin polyamide long fiber yarn 9: Polyamide long fiber 10: First delivery roller 11: Heater 12: Second delivery roller 13: Interlace nozzle 14: Third delivery roller 15: Winding cheese

 ────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued on the front page (72) Inventor Katsutoshi Hashimoto 1-1-1, Kamiyake, Heiwa-cho, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Prefecture Inside Toray Textile Co., Ltd. (72) Minoru Shioshima 1-1-1, Kamiyake, Heiwa-cho, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Prefecture Address Toray Textile Co., Ltd. F term (reference) 4L002 AA06 AA07 AB02 AB04 AC02 AC06 EA00 FA01 4L035 BB32 CC20 DD12 FF10 4L036 MA05 MA06 PA33 PA42 RA03 UA01 UA30 4L048 AA20 AA24 AA36 AA50 CA08 AC08

Claims (15)

[Claims] 1. A mixed fiber comprising two or more kinds of yarns having a difference in shrinkage ratio of boiling water of 2% or more, wherein at least one kind of the yarn comprises a polyamide filament fiber having a large thickness and a small thickness. Shrink composite yarn. 2. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to claim 1, which is interlaced. 3. The mixed-shrink composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the other type is composed of a polyamide filament yarn. 4. The mixed-shrink composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the other type is made of a polyester filament yarn. 5. The mixed fiber of claim 4, wherein the polyester filament yarn is a cationic dyeable polyester. 6. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn has a core-sheath structure.
The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the thick polyamide thin fiber yarn exists as a core yarn side and / or a sheath yarn side. 7. A non-uniform thickness in the length direction of a polyamide long fiber yarn having a thickness of 5 to 20% in Uster normal U%.
And the stress-strain curve 4 at a sample length of 20 cm.
The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the standard deviation of the 0% elongation point stress is 0.3 g / d or less. 8. A wister normal U% chart of thick and thin polyamide-based filament yarn, wherein the number of thickness fluctuation peaks of 4% or more is 10 / m (yarn length) or more. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7. 9. The relationship between 1/2 inert (H value) and normal (N value) in a wool U% of a thick polyamide filament yarn is H / N ≦ 0.8. The mixed-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 8. 10. A stress-strain curve of a polyamide-based multifilament of a polyamide filament filament having a thickness of 20 cm at a sample length of 20 cm, wherein the secondary yield point stress is 0.6.
g / d or more and a breaking elongation of 60 to 200%. 11. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, wherein the thick polyamide thin fiber yarn has a dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C. of 10% or less. . 12. The entanglement degree of the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn is 10 / m.
2. The range of from 1 to 200 pcs / m.
12. The hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of items 11 to 11. 13. The hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single fiber fineness of at least one kind of filament yarn is 1.2 denier or less. 14. A woven fabric, wherein the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is used for a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn. 15. A knitted fabric using the hetero-shrinkage composite mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 13.