JP2002242013A - Stretch lining - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Problem] To provide a stretch lining which has a high weft elongation comparable to a stretch surface material, and has a combination of softness, flexibility, and good sliding. SOLUTION: At least a weft yarn is made of a woven fabric composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, and the yarn is a stretch lining made of a single yarn having a flat cross section having a flatness of 1.3 to 4.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a textile lining using polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. More specifically, the present invention relates to a stretch lining made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having high stretchability, soft texture, and smooth surface.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Textile lining materials can be broadly classified into polyester long fibers and cellulosic long fibers. Lining made of 100% polyester long fiber is cellulose long fiber 1
It is widely used for linings because it is inexpensive, has high strength against pulling, bending and abrasion, has excellent dimensional stability due to washing, and has little change in appearance as compared with a lining composed of 00%. Lining made of 100% cellulosic long fiber has advantages that polyester fiber does not have, such as excellent texture, moisture absorption, sweat absorption, antistatic property and slipperiness, and is used especially as a lining in the field of high-grade women's clothing. ing. For the purpose of combining the advantages of the polyester fiber and the cellulosic fiber with each other, a lining in which these yarns are interwoven has been commercialized.

[0003] On the other hand, dress materials used for clothes are roughly classified into wool materials and polyester materials, and are used depending on applications. In recent years, in particular, as a major feature of the wool material, a stretch surface material having a large elongation in the weft direction has been spotlighted. Most of the conventional wool dress materials have a stretch ratio of 10% or less.
A stretch surface material with a weft elongation of 20% or more using polyurethane yarn mixed with a weft yarn, or a natural stretch surface material with a weft elongation of approximately 15% by using a devised processing step without using a polyurethane yarn. Clothing is growing at a rapid rate.

[0004] Since these stretch surface materials and natural stretch surface materials have very large weft elongation, even when worn and subjected to daily movements (sitting, squatting, crossing arms, etc.), the surface material does not stretch and the clothing pressure is felt. A very comfortable feeling can be obtained without any. In particular, when wearing very tight pants, stretch pants and natural stretch layers are often used for these pants. In order to cope with such a trend of adopting a wool surface material, a lining material having a high stretch ratio has been commercialized. Many prior arts relating to high stretch linings are also disclosed. 100% polyester with high stretch ratio in the weft direction
As a lining, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 53-130363, 1-221261, 58-115144, and the like disclose a lining exhibiting a weft elongation of 15% or more using false twisted yarn as the weft. And a processing method are disclosed.

[0005] Although these linings have high stretchability, they use false twisted yarns for the weft yarns, giving them a rough feel and a large degree of bending of the weft yarns. Is the lining of the structure with large unevenness that emerges on the fabric surface. Therefore, the slipperiness, which is an important function of the lining, is reduced, and the removability of the clothes and the feel when worn are poor. The lining made of general polyester fiber, which has been subjected to a high weight loss treatment with an alkaline solution, has a thickness of 0.07.
mm and a weight of 0.49 to 0.59 N / m ² , which is thin and lightweight, whereas the lining of these false twisted yarns has a thickness of 0.15 mm and a weight of 0.65 to 0.69 N / M ^2, and the lining is far from soft and supple.

As described above, when the crimping property of the false twisted yarn is used as a requirement for expressing a high stretch ratio, although the stretchability can be expressed, the twisted structure and the bulky structure of the processed yarn are caused. There is a disadvantage that the lining has a strong feeling of roughness, unevenness and a feeling of ground thickness. On the other hand, as a method of expressing weft elongation by using a raw yarn, Japanese Patent Publication No. 7-78723 discloses a method in which a raw yarn of polyester long fiber is used as a weft to have flexibility (= soft, swelling). And,
Although a lining with good slipperiness is disclosed, the lining has an elongation in the weft direction of 4% or less, and thus has almost no effect of reducing the feeling of pressure when worn.

[0007] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. H11-256413 discloses that 5 to 12% of a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn having a round single yarn cross section is used as a weft.
A lining having a weft elongation is disclosed. This lining is
It has been developed for the purpose of resolving the seam slippage trouble of the lining that frequently occurs in clothes that combine the conventional outer material (about 10% weft elongation) and the conventional lining (2% or less weft elongation). The garment in which the lining of 5 to 12% of elongation is combined with the conventional outer material hardly slips off the seam even while worn. 5-1
Since it has a 2% weft elongation, when it is worn as a garment in combination with a conventional outer material, the clothing pressure is reduced as compared to a garment combined with a conventional lining (about 2% weft elongation), and is worn. It is also recognized that the feeling is improved.

However, this lining has a weft elongation of 20
% When worn as a garment in combination with a stretch surface material that is more than 1%, it is easier to feel the oppression of the garment than when there is no lining. It is said that when a person sits down, squats down, crosses his arms, etc., the skin is stretched by 10 to 30%, and the stretch surface material has a weft stretch comparable to the skin stretch, Follow enough,
In the case of a lining of less than about 10%, the lining cannot be completely followed and is stretched.

[0009] As a means of reducing the clothing pressure, there is also known a method in which a lining is provided with a clearance or a kink, but for clothes using a stretch surface material, a tight design that fits perfectly to the body is important. It doesn't need room or kinks because it stretches enough). For this reason, if a room is taken or a space is taken, there is a problem that the lining becomes loose, the feeling of wearing becomes very poor, and the silhouette is impaired.

As described above, the properties of the stretch surface material (large weft elongation = low clothing pressure = good wearing feeling) are not impaired, and the performance that the lining should originally have (good slipperiness, soft and supple) is also obtained. A lining suitable for a stretch surface material that has been combined has not yet been developed, and at present, a stretch lining having a strong feeling of roughness, unevenness, and ground thickness using a false twisted yarn is inevitable.

[0011]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a stretch lining having a high weft elongation comparable to that of a stretch surface material and having a combination of softness, flexibility and good slippage.

[0012]

Means for Solving the Problems In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have used a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn having a flat cross section having a specific flatness in a single yarn cross section. They have found that they are effective and have completed the present invention. That is, in the present invention, at least the weft is formed of a woven fabric composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, and the yarn is a stretch lining made of a single yarn having a flat cross section having a flatness of 1.3 to 4. is there.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn used in the present invention is composed of a polyester having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and usually has 10 to 150 filaments, preferably 15 to 1 filament.
20 yarns, more preferably 20 to 100 yarns, are yarns that have not been subjected to crimped bulking treatments such as false twisting, pushing, shaping, knitting, and fluid jetting. Interlaced yarns or lightly twisted yarns commonly applied to increase the convergence of multifilaments fall within the scope of the present invention.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate contains 50 mol% or more of trimethylene terephthalate units, preferably 70 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more.
Most preferably, it contains 90 mol% or more. Therefore, as the third component, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component is 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and most preferably 10 mol% or less. Polytrimethylene terephthalate contained.

[0015] Polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this synthesis process, an appropriate one or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or a polyester or nylon other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately prepared. After the synthesis, blending or composite spinning (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.) may be performed.

The third component added in the process of synthesizing polytrimylene glycol includes, for example, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (such as oxalic acid and adipic acid), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (such as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid), and aromatic dicarboxylic acids. Acid (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.),
Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone bisphenol A)
), Aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (such as 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene), polyether glycols (such as polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol), and aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (such as ω-oxycaproic acid) ), Aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (such as p-oxybenzoic acid). Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

The mixing ratio of the components in the case of performing the mixed spinning or the composite spinning is as follows.
It is preferably in the range of 0% by mass. Regarding the composite spinning, JP-B-43-19108, JP-A-11-1
No. 89923, JP-A-2000-239927, JP-A-2000-256918 and the like, as the first component, polytrimethylene terephthalate,
Polyester such as polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate, or polybutylene terephthalate, or nylon is used as the second component, and these are arranged side by side or eccentrically, and there is a composite spinning of side-by-side type or eccentric sea core type. .

Among them, a combination of polytrimethylene terephthalate and copolymerized polytrimethylene terephthalate and a combination of two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities are preferable.
Using two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities as exemplified in JP-A-239927, the composite spinning is performed into a side-by-side type in which the joining surface shape is curved so that the low viscosity side wraps around the high viscosity side. The manufactured fiber is more preferable because it has both high stretchability and bulkiness.

Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, and antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives. An oxidizing agent, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent brightener, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like may be contained. In the present invention, the method for producing the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn is optional. For example, after obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min, the fiber is twisted at about 2 to 3.5 times. And a high-speed spinning method (spin-take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more, and the like.

The total fineness and single yarn fineness of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn used in the present invention are not limited, but the total fineness is generally 39 to 133 dtex, preferably 56 used as a backing. ~
It is in the range of 110 dtex, and the single yarn fineness is 0.22
For the expression of 5.6 dtex and high stretchability, the range is preferably 0.56 to 3.3 dtex. The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn constituting the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn is closely related to the stretch development of the obtained lining, and when the flatness is small, only the lining having a low stretch ratio can be obtained. Conversely, when the flatness is increased, the structure becomes very easy to bend in a specific direction.

In the present invention, the flatness of the cross section of a single yarn is 1.
It is necessary to be 3 to 4, preferably 1.5 to 3
Range. If the degree of flatness is less than 1.3, the bending rigidity increases, and the lining using this raw yarn as the weft has insufficient stretchability. If the flatness exceeds 4, the spinning stability during melt spinning becomes poor and the thickness of the original yarn becomes uneven,
Weft unevenness (dying unevenness) defects occur on the lining. When weaving is performed using the raw yarn having the flatness of the present invention, it is possible to produce a green fabric in a form in which the weft is sufficiently wound around the warp, that is, a green fabric containing a large amount of elongation component (the green fabric width is smaller than the weft length). Lining and heat treatment can produce a lining with a high stretch rate.

The flat sectional shape is not limited to a simple flat shape, but may be a substantially flat shape such as a W type, an I type, a Boomerang type, a corrugated type, a skewered dumpling type, a cocoon type, and a rectangular parallelepiped type. A soft cross-sectional structure that is preferentially bendable in a specific direction may be used, but a multifilament yarn composed of a single yarn having a W-shaped cross-sectional shape is more preferable from the viewpoint of exhibiting stretchability.

As for the lining of the present invention, it is essential to use a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn as the weft, but a lining composed of 100% of the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilant raw yarn also used for the warp is preferable. . In addition, as the warp, other materials other than the above, namely, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate fiber and polybutylene terephthalate fiber, copper ammonia rayon, viscose rayon,
It may be a backing lining with regenerated cellulose fibers such as polynosic rayon and acetate fibers. In this case, the total fineness and single yarn fineness of the warp are not limited,
Those having a total fineness and a single yarn fineness in the same range as those used for the weft are preferred.

The feature of the lining of the present invention is that the stretch ratio in the weft direction is as large as 10 to 30% despite the use of the multifilament yarn. In order to have this great stretchability, the lining does not stretch out even when performing daily activities (sit, squat, cross arms, etc.) while wearing clothes made in combination with stretch surface material or natural stretch surface material Very little wearing pressure is felt and very comfortable wearing can be obtained.

The stretch ratio in the weft direction of the lining of the present invention is 1
The range is preferably 0 to 30%, more preferably 12 to 2%.
5%. If the lining stretch rate in the weft direction is less than 10%, when the skin stretches by 10% or more in daily activities such as sitting and squatting, the lining is stretched and receives pressure. If the stress ratio exceeds 30%, the weft becomes a structure in which the weft is raised, and slippage is deteriorated, giving a rough feeling. The stretch lining of the present invention also has a great feature in that it has excellent slipperiness because of the use of raw yarn. The quality of sliding can be quantitatively expressed by a coefficient of dynamic friction when the lining is rubbed with a cotton cloth. The conventional stretch lining using false twisted yarn has a structure in which the weft is twisted and bulky, so it has a raised structure compared to the warp, and the coefficient of dynamic friction in the warp direction (weaving direction) is remarkably large. This is the main reason for feeling rough.

Since the lining of the present invention expresses weft elongation by using the original yarn, the coefficient of kinetic friction is small in both the warp direction and the weft direction, and the sliding property is good. The preferred range of the coefficient of kinetic friction is different depending on the fabric structure, and in the case of a plain fabric structure, the range is preferably from 0.1 to 0.5.
22 to 0.40, 0.20 to 0.3 for twill fabric structure
8. In the case of satin fabric structure, the range is 0.20 to 0.35. Generally, the lining with a coefficient of kinetic friction exceeding 0.40
Poor slipperiness with bare skin, pantyhose, etc. causes discomfort during wearing. Also, when putting on and taking off the skirt or jacket, I feel resistance because of the poor slip. When used as a lining for a jacket or a coat, the slidability with a blouse, a Y-shirt, or a jacket to be worn below is poor, so that it is not comfortable to wear. When the coefficient of kinetic friction is less than 0.20, slippage is too good, so when wearing a skirt and sitting on a chair,
The skirt of the skirt is shifted and the body is easily shifted.

Next, an example of the method for producing a lining according to the present invention will be described. The lining of the present invention is usually manufactured in the following steps. Width heat treatment → scouring treatment → alkali reduction → dyeing processing → finishing agent → final finishing heat treatment → hot paper treatment. Stretch rate 10 in the weft direction suitable as lining
To produce a lining with 30%, the flatness is 1.3
It is necessary to use, as the weft, a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn composed of a single yarn of low Young's modulus having a flat cross section of 4 to 4.

Since this raw yarn is very easily bent in a specific direction, it has a form in which the weft is sufficiently wound around the warp during weaving, that is, contains a large amount of elongation component (the width of the greige is smaller than the length of the weft). It is suitable for producing a greige machine, and the lining of the present invention can be produced by grooving and heat-treating the greige machine. The width insertion is, for example, when heat treatment with a pin tenter type heat setter, which is generally used as a heat treatment machine at the time of fabric processing, heat treatment in a state where both ends of the fabric after weaving or scouring is fixed, The treatment is performed with the fixed width narrower than the width of the woven fabric after weaving or scouring. The width ratio is obtained by the following equation. Width ratio = [(fabric width after weaving or scouring-fabric width after weaving) / fabric width after weaving or scouring] x 100

The lining ratio for producing the lining of the present invention is 1
The range is 0 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%. Depending on the spinning conditions, single yarn fineness, cross-sectional shape, and flatness of the raw yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament used for the weft, the bending softness and the dry heat shrinkage of the raw yarn itself differ, and the width insertion ratio fluctuates. In setting the width ratio, after examining the physical properties of the yarn, 10 to 35%
It is important to select the optimum width ratio within the range.

When the width ratio is less than 10%, only a lining having a weft elongation of less than 10% can be obtained. When the width insertion ratio exceeds 35%, high weft elongation is developed, but wrinkles are formed on the woven fabric and the ground of the weft is largely bent (curved). In addition, the crimp of the weft becomes too large, and the weft floats, so that the lining has a strong roughness.
In the heat treatment at the time of the width insertion in the present invention, the structure shrinkage in the weft direction is performed as designed, and the crimp of the weft is surely increased by increasing the warp density, and the heat fixation of the weft is sufficiently performed and the solidity is improved. This is a very important step because it has the meaning of forming a crimp. If the heat fixation to the yarn is not sufficiently performed by this heat treatment, when heat is applied in a process after the heat treatment (for example, scouring or dyeing process),
Shrinkage of the weft itself occurs, resulting in a small lining of weft elongation.
In addition, wrinkles occur. The wrinkles generated at this stage cannot be completely eliminated by heat treatment under tension in the final finishing step.

The heat treatment temperature for sufficiently performing tissue shrinkage and heat fixation is preferably from 150 ° C. to 210 ° C., and more preferably from 160 ° C. to 200 ° C. If the heat treatment temperature is lower than 150 ° C., the heat shrinkage of the structure and the weft are insufficient, and
Troubles such as insufficient weft elongation and occurrence of wrinkles occur due to a small width insertion rate. When the heat treatment temperature exceeds 210 ° C., the warp and the weft are damaged by heat, and the mechanical properties are reduced, the rigidity is increased, and the lining has a hard texture.

The time for performing the heat treatment may be a time during which the tissue shrinkage and the heat fixation to the weft crimp are sufficiently performed. The heat treatment may be performed in a short time when the heat treatment temperature is high, and may be increased when the heat treatment temperature is low. I do. The preferred heat treatment time is 15 seconds to 60 seconds at 160 to 200 ° C. The apparatus for performing the heat treatment is not limited as long as the apparatus can perform the treatment in a state of tension in the warp / weft direction of the fabric, but a pin tenter type heat setter having pins at both ends, which is generally used for heat treatment of the fabric, is used. preferable.

After scouring, scouring is performed. The scouring is a step of removing spinning oil, warp paste and the like adhering to the woven fabric after weaving. As the treatment liquid used in the scouring, water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali is preferable. Although not limited to the scouring method, an open soap type continuous scouring machine generally used in the scouring of woven fabrics, a liquid jet dyeing machine, a bath-suspended continuous treatment machine, a wins dyeing machine, a softa scouring machine and the like are preferable. .

The stretch lining of the present invention may be subjected to fining heat treatment before scouring, or conversely, may be subjected to finning heat treatment after scouring. Therefore, it is difficult to obtain a high stretch ratio, and in order to obtain a high stretch ratio, it is preferable to perform a width heat treatment before scouring. After finishing scouring,
Performs lining dyeing and finishing. In the case where the feel of the lining made of 100% polyester continuous fiber of the present invention is made softer, alkali weight reduction processing may be performed before dyeing. The alkali weight reduction process generally contributes to improving the texture and increases the stitch slippage amount by creating a gap between the warp and the weft. However, since the lining of the present invention has a weft elongation due to a weft crimp, the seam does not slip off when worn even if the alkali weight reduction processing is performed.

The lining dyeing process of the present invention may be the same as the conventional lining dyeing process made of ordinary polyester-based fibers. Examples of the method include a liquid jet dyeing machine, a Jigger dyeing machine, and the like. Beam dyeing machine, wins dyeing machine,
Etc., but from the viewpoint of the quality and cost of the dyed product,
Processing with a jet dyeing machine is preferred. Finishing process is
Similar to the dyeing process, it may be the same as the lining finishing process using a general polyester fiber. As a finishing agent, an antistatic agent, a water repellent, a sweat absorbing agent and the like may be provided. In the final finishing process, tentering heat treatment is performed with a pin tenter etc. to remove wrinkles, but at this time, if the proportion of tentering is increased, the crimp formed by finning heat treatment is extended, and the lining with low weft elongation Become. For example, the width after dyeing is about 1 to 3 cm, and the processing is performed to remove wrinkles.

Finally, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness and texture of the lining surface, it is preferable to perform a cold-paper calendering treatment. However, the lining of the present invention develops weft elongation due to the weft crimp. As a result, the weft yarn has a floating structure. Therefore, it is preferable to perform hot paper processing for improving smoothness and slipperiness.

In the case of a cross-woven lining composed of cellulosic long fibers / polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarns, the dyeing process is first performed by the same method as described above.
After scouring, the polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn as the weft is dyed. Subsequently, cellulosic filaments are dyed. In this case, the same dyeing machine as used for dyeing the trimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn may be used, or a cold pad batch method or a pad steam method may be used. Alternatively, another dyeing machine such as a Jigger method may be used. In the finishing process after dyeing, the washing shrinkage rate, which is carried out in the processing of ordinary cellulose fiber,
Resin processing for improving wet friction fastness and the like can be performed.

[0038]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples. The evaluation method used in the present invention is as follows. (Single yarn flatness) From the cross-sectional photograph of the flat yarn, the length of the long side and the short side of the circumscribed rectangle of the single yarn is determined, and the length of the long side is divided by the length of the short side. (Stretch rate of lining) Stretch rate (S) (%)
3. When a 20 cm × 20 cm woven fabric sample is stretched in the weft direction of the woven fabric at a pulling speed of 0.2 mm / sec using KES-FB1 (trade name) manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.
It is a value determined from the elongation (A: cm) under a stress of 9 N / cm according to the following equation. S (%) = [(A / 20)] × 100 (A: length (cm) extended under a stress of 4.9 N / cm)

(Coefficient of dynamic friction) K manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.
Using ES-SE (trade name), the friction surface dimension is 1 cm x
A 1 cm and 0.245 N friction element was fitted with a kanakin No. 3 scoured cotton cloth and allowed to slide on the surface of the lining fixed at a speed of 5 cm / min. From the frictional resistance at that time, the following equation was used. Determine the dynamic friction coefficient (μ). μ = A / B (A: average value of frictional force (N), B: weight of friction element (N)) In the present invention, the friction coefficient when sliding in the warp direction of the lining and the sliding coefficient in the weft direction The average value of the friction coefficient at the time of the lining is defined as the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining.

(Yarn Density) The number of warps per 2.54 cm width of the woven fabric is counted (lines / 2.54 cm). (Wool fineness) The warp fineness of the woven fabric is 0.0
Two samples having a length of 90 cm are prepared under a load of 0088 N / dtex, and the weight is determined by the following equation from the weight W (N). Fineness of warp (dtex) = (W × 900000) / 18
0

(Wearing feeling) To evaluate the feeling of wearing (compression feeling and touch), a stretch surface material having a 23% weft elongation was used.
A tight skirt was created by combining various linings with different stretch rates. The room rate was 2% for both the outer and lining materials. The clearance rate is calculated as follows. Clearance = (line around hips of lining-dimension around hips of body) / dimension around hips of body These tight skirts are worn on a monitor, and the feeling of wearing is sensory evaluated. ：: very good, ○: good, Δ: strong pressure, ×: large pressure or roughness, unsuitable

(Clothing pressure) After attaching a clothing pressure measuring sensor (air-pack type pressure sensor, manufactured by AIM Co., Ltd.) on both sides of the buttocks of the monitor, the tight skirt is worn and the monitor is squatted down. And measure the pressure generated in the buttocks. The clothing pressure is indicated by the average value on both sides of the buttocks. The wearing pressure of the skirt alone (without lining attached) and the lining attached with a conventional lining with 1.5% weft elongation was measured in advance.
In the case of only the skirt, the value was 0.2 N / cm 2, and in the case of the skirt with the conventional lining having a weft elongation of 1.5%, it was 0.8 N / cm 2.

[0043]

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 (a) Production of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn Polytrimethylene terephthalate having ηsp / c = 0.8 was prepared at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. in a round hole spinneret ( 30 holes) to obtain an undrawn yarn by spinning at a spinning speed of 1200 m / min.
Hot roll temperature 60 ° C, hot plate temperature 140
C., stretching ratio of 3 times, stretching at 800 m / min stretching speed,
56 dtex / 30 made of single yarn with round cross section
f, a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was produced. The flatness of the cross section of this single yarn is 1.0
Met. (E1) Using the same raw materials and a spinning apparatus, a spinning temperature of 265 ° C.
Then, an undrawn yarn was obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 1200 m / min from a W hole spinneret (30 holes). Next, a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 140 ° C., a draw ratio of 3 times,
Stretching was carried out at a drawing speed of 800 m / min to produce two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarns having a cross section of a W-shaped single yarn and having 56 dtex / 30f. The flatness of the cross section of this single yarn was 1.7 and 2.7, respectively. (E2, A-3)

(B) Production of polytrimethylene terephthalate side-by-side raw yarn Two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities were used at a mass ratio of 1: 1 by using a side-by-side composite spinner at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C. and a disc hole. An undrawn yarn was obtained by spinning from a spinneret (12 holes) at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min. Then, the hot roll temperature is 55 ° C., the hot plate temperature is 140 ° C., the stretching speed is 400 m / min, and the stretching ratio is set such that the fineness after stretching is 56 dtex, and the fiber is twisted.
A side-by-side composite multifilament raw yarn having a single yarn cross section of 56 dtex / 12f with a disk shape was produced.
The flatness of the cross section of this single yarn was 2.5. The intrinsic viscosity of the obtained composite multifilament is [η] on the high viscosity side.
= 0.90 and [η] = 0.70 on the low viscosity side.
(B) C) Production of polyethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn Polyethylene terephthalate having ηsp / c = 0.8 was spun at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C. from a W-hole spout (30 holes) at a spinning speed of 1200 m / min. A drawn yarn was obtained. Then, hot roll temperature 60 ° C, hot plate temperature 160 ° C,
Stretched at a draw ratio of 3 and a drawing speed of 800 m / min.
A polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was produced. The flatness of the cross section of this single yarn was 2.7. (C)

(2) Production of lining The polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, the polytrimethylene terephthalate side-by-side yarn and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn produced in (a), (b) and (c) were used, respectively. Weaving and dyeing were performed under the following conditions.
Using a 56 dtex / 24f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn as the warp, the number of warps is 120 / 2.54 cm, and the warp tension is 0.00176 N / dtex.
Under the conditions (1) and (2), as shown in Table 1,
(B) or (c) 100 yarns / 2.5 each
It was driven so as to have a density of 4 cm to produce a flat-textile woven fabric (raw machine).

Next, a width heat treatment was performed using a pin tenter type dry heat treatment machine. Subsequently, desizing was performed using an open soap type continuous scouring machine (a hot water temperature of 90 ° C).
℃), 13% alkali weight loss according to a conventional method,
Dyeing (110 ° C x 40 minutes), Reduction washing (80 ° C x 1)
0 min). Next, heat treatment for finishing is performed by a pin tenter (170 ° C. × 30 seconds).
Par processing (pressure 30KN, 130 ° C. × 1 second) was performed. Thus, the linings of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were produced. Weft elongation of various linings obtained, slipperiness,
Table 1 shows the measurement results of the feeling of wearing and the clothing pressure.

[0047]

Example 6 56 dtex / 30f cuprammonium rayon was used as the warp yarn, and the same single yarn cross-sectional shape as in Example 2 was used as a W-shaped and 56 dtex / 30f polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn having a flatness of 2.7 was used as the weft yarn. Use
Density 115 strands / 2.54 cm, weft density 100 strands / 2.
A 54 cm plain weaving machine was manufactured. Next, a width heat treatment was performed under the same conditions as in Example 2, a scouring treatment was performed, and desizing was performed. Thereafter, the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber was dyed by a Jigger dyeing machine, and copper ammonia rayon was dyed by a cold pad batch method. Next, finish processing is performed using a glyoxal shrinkproofing agent,
Finally, hot paper processing (pressure 30KN, 130 ℃ ×
1 second) to produce a lining. Table 2 shows the results of measuring the weft elongation, slipperiness, wearing feeling, and clothing pressure of the obtained lining.

[0048]

Example 7 A warp yarn density of 140 yarns / 2.54 cm and a warp tension of 0.00176 was used for a 56 dtex / 24f polyethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn.
Under the condition of N / dtex, as weft, the same as in Example 2,
56 dtex / with a single yarn cross-sectional shape of W type and a flatness of 2.7
A 30 f polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn was set to a weft density of 100 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a woven fabric (raw machine) having a twill structure rising 2/1 rightward was woven.

Next, the green body was subjected to a 25% width heat treatment with a pin tenter type dry heat treatment machine. Continued
Using an open soap type continuous scouring machine, desizing and scouring are performed (hot water temperature 90 ° C), and dyeing is performed according to a conventional method (110 ° C).
× 40 min) ・ After performing reduction washing (80 ° C × 10 min),
The heat treatment of the finish was performed by a pin tenter (170 ° C.
X 30 seconds). Next, hot paper processing (pressure 30K)
N, 130 ° C. × 1 second) to produce a lining. Table 2 shows the results of measuring the weft elongation, slipperiness, wearing feeling, and clothing pressure of the obtained lining.

As shown in Tables 1 and 2, when the lining of the present invention was attached to the stretch skirt skirt, the increase in the clothing pressure was hardly observed, and it was clear that the garment had a comfortable wearing feeling.

[0051]

[Table 1]

[0052]

[Table 2]

[0053]

According to the present invention, when the lining of the present invention is sewn on clothes by combining it with a stretch surface material and a natural stretch surface material, and when worn, the stress generated when the user squats or crouches is absorbed by the elongation of the surface material and the lining. As a result, a comfortable feeling can be obtained with little feeling of oppression. The conventional stretch lining has poor slippage and softness due to the use of strong twisted yarn, but the lining of the present invention also has the functions that the lining such as good sliding, softness, and suppleness should originally have because of the use of raw yarn. It also has a stretch lining that will become the mainstream in the future, and is the best lining for natural stretch outer fabrics.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A stretch lining in which at least the weft is composed of a woven fabric composed of a polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament raw yarn, and the raw yarn is a single yarn having a flat cross section having a flatness of 1.3 to 4.