JP2003105652A - Resilient touch woven or knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven or knit fabric which has such an elastic extra resilient touchas that of a rubber ball, has both a stretching property and a lightweight touch, and has a good finish appearance. SOLUTION: This woven or knit fabric is characterized by being formed from conjugate multifilament yarns which have an extra large single filament fineness of >=6 dtex and comprises at least two kinds of polyesters having different thermal shrinkage characteristics, respectively.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having high resilience and stretchability using a conjugate multifilament yarn having a very thick single yarn fineness (in the present invention, these are collectively referred to as woven or knitted fabrics). There is).

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Products that use synthetic fibers take advantage of their characteristics to evolve and evolve to create texture (texture), functionality,
It has reached a high level in terms of quality and quality. Under these circumstances, there is a strong trend toward fashion personality in recent years, and consumers are demanding demand for fabrics with features and functions that have never been seen by consumers. In such an environment, concrete demand examples include medium-thick fabrics that have elasticity and resilience like organza, and fabrics that are knitted but have a resilience like textiles.

A characteristic common to these requirements is the expression of "high repulsion" which is unprecedented in a woven or knitted fabric. Furthermore, not only the requirement of "high repulsion" but also the element of "tailoring" that creates a high-class feeling when sewn on clothes is required. The key to this "tailoring" is the "high resilience" with abundant elasticity and the appropriate "stretchability" to improve sewing.

In recent years, the "stretchability" function of fabric has become a standard item. It goes without saying that the materials that have met this demand are the conjugate materials that are currently being diversified. In addition, the use of polyester monofilament yarn or the like can be seen in part.

[0005] These materials have achieved some results by creating a cloth by a method such as a single material or a composite material. In recent years, due to active product development of polyester conjugate yarn,
Many repulsive fabrics have been proposed. For example, as shown in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-43835, a yarn having a spiral hollow structure is prepared by medium-to-strong twist of a single yarn,
A 100% woven fabric using this has been proposed as a woven fabric having "stretchability", "light weight feeling" and "high repulsion feeling".

However, the level that we are appealing for is what is called "super-repulsion", which is plentiful like a rubber ball or has high rebound like an elastic fiber. The single yarn fineness of the conjugate multifilament yarn which is currently diversified in the market is usually 3 to 5 dtex.
Even if high-level processing such as weaving and dyeing was devised, there was a limit and it was difficult to obtain.

On the other hand, a thick fiber having a single yarn fineness typified by a monofilament yarn, for example, a woven or knitted fabric in which 2 to 4 polyester monofilament yarns are combined and made into a fine fineness, or a monofilament yarn before being separated A woven or knitted fabric using a parent yarn (original yarn) can be obtained that has a very high repulsion feeling. However, when the cloth is tailored for clothes, there is a drawback that it has a strong resistance to bending and exhibits a false silhouette and is not suitable for actual wear.

Further, the woven and knitted fabric of conjugate monofilament yarn proposed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-123356 is a thin woven fabric whose original purpose is diversified for formal use called organdy, and suit, coat and blazer. Currently, it is not commonly used for medium-weight fabrics such as pants, skirts and dresses that are widely used for general outerwear. This is because the fineness of the yarn used as the monofilament yarn is small (generally 22 to
Since it is 33 dtex), the influence is that the cloth is too thin and can be seen through. However, as part of the fashion trend, it has been incorporated as a layering over the outer garment.
On the other hand, it is possible to use it by making it finer (for example, 56 dtex or more) to the fineness used for ordinary medium-thick fabrics. This is because process passability, quality, quality, etc. in the process of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric. It is estimated that there are many problems and it is almost impossible.

[0009]

The present inventors have arrived at the present invention as a result of extensive studies to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems.

An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric having a feeling of super-repulsion like a rubber ball and having a stretchability and a lightweight feeling at the same time.

[0011]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following configurations. That is, (1) a woven or knitted fabric characterized by comprising a conjugate multifilament yarn composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymers having a single yarn fineness of 6 dtex or more and different heat shrinkage characteristics.

(2) The woven or knitted fabric according to (1) above, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn is used in either the warp direction or the weft direction.

(3) The woven or knitted fabric according to (1) above, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn is used in either the warp or weft direction and the short fiber spun yarn is used in the other.

(4) The woven or knitted fabric according to (1) above, wherein the conjugated multifilament yarn is used in either the warp or weft direction, and the regenerated cellulose fiber or its composite yarn is used in the other.

(5) The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (4), characterized in that a conjugate multifilament yarn twisted in a twist coefficient α of 300 to 30,000 is used.

However, twist coefficient α = T × D ^1/2 T: twist number (t / m) D: fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn (6) The woven or knitted fabric has a warp and / or weft direction of 3% or more. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), which has a stretch ratio.

(7) The above-mentioned (1) to (5), wherein the woven or knitted fabric has thick and thin unevenness in warp and / or weft directions.
The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 1.

[0018]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The conjugate multifilament yarn of the extra-thick single yarn fineness of the present invention comprises at least two component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics in parallel,
Alternatively, a conjugate multifilament yarn in which eccentric core and sheath are joined is used. This conjugate multifilament yarn is not provided with a crimp structure by false twisting or other yarn processing, but has a self-crimping expression ability due to a difference in heat shrinkage characteristics. In other words, the crimping conjugate filament yarn A made of the polyester of the present invention has self-crimping expression power due to the difference in heat shrinkage characteristics, and has this latent crimping expression capability, and is subjected to boiling water treatment. By this, crimp is expressed.

The conjugate multifilament yarn having a very fine single yarn fineness used in the present invention is intended for a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and usually two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrink properties. To use. Examples of the polyester polymer having different heat shrinkability include polyester homopolymers having different degrees of polymerization, copolymers of a third component other than a terephthalic acid component and / or an ethylene glycol component, and other polymers. It may be a blend of.

Specifically, as the polyester polymer having different heat shrinkability used in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate alone or ethylene terephthalate unit 80
Copolyesters containing more than mol% are preferred. As the copolymerization component of the copolyester, components such as isophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, bisphenols, neopentyl glycol or 1,6-cyclohexanediol can be used. Moreover, polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) is used as a highly shrinkable component.
It is also possible to use a polyester mainly containing, that is, a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as a main glycol component.

Further, a copolymerized polyester having ethylene terephthale as a main repeating unit and 0.8-1.8 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 6-13 mol% of adipic acid as a dicarboxylic acid component are copolymerized. It may be a cation-dyeable conjugate fiber made of polyester containing substantially only ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit.

Further, other improving agents such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dyeability improving component, and a pigment can be added to the polyester.

It is important that the conjugated multifilament yarn of the present invention has the property of exhibiting a helical crimp by a relaxation heat treatment. Then, in order to obtain a conjugated multifilament yarn having such characteristics, the characteristics of the polyester polymer, spinning and drawing conditions, etc. are important.

As the two-component polyester polymer having different heat-shrinkability, one having a low-viscosity polyester (low-shrink component) on one side and a high-viscosity component (high-shrink component) on the other side is preferably used. In the case of homopolyester, the intrinsic viscosity of the low viscosity polyester component is 0.35 to 0.5.
5, the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is 0.6
It is preferably in the range of 5 to 0.85. If the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.35, the melt viscosity will be low, making it difficult to produce yarn. When the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.55, the crimping power of the conjugate multifilament becomes poor, and the spiral crimping power is deteriorated. Further, if the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.85, the melt viscosity becomes high and spinning / drawing becomes difficult. Also,
If the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.65, the crimping power tends to be poor.

The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the low viscosity polyester component and the high viscosity polyester is preferably in the range of 0.20 to 0.40. However, when a copolyester component is used for one side, the difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two components can be made closer.

The intrinsic viscosity [η] was determined as an orthochlorophenol solution at a temperature of 25 ° C.

Regarding the conjugate multifilament yarn used here, there is a suitable composite ratio for the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component when spinning two types of polyester polymers. That is, the composite ratio of the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably 35 to 65:65 to 35 by weight, and more preferably 40 to 60:60 to 40.

The composite form of the conjugate multifilament yarn may be either a form in which two components are arranged in parallel or an eccentric core / sheath arrangement, but the parallel form is more effective in developing latent crimp (coil). It is preferable because it has a large diameter and a large number of expressed crimps).

The spinning speed for obtaining such crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is usually 1000.
It may be any of a low speed region of m / min or more and a high speed region of 2500 m / min or more.

The drawing of the undrawn yarn and the semi-drawn yarn which are spun is
It is possible to draw with a known drawing device, the strength / elongation level of the drawn thread obtained with respect to the strength / elongation characteristics of the unstretched thread and the semi-stretched thread, and the stretched yarn as much as possible under the condition that no fluff occurs. It is desirable to set the conditions under which a large shrinkage stress can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment. The higher the shrinkage stress, the higher the crimping ability of the conjugate multifilament yarn can be. By doing so, the relaxation heat treatment of the woven or knitted fabric in the later step can obtain the helical coil structure by the crimping and the stretchability. Also grows.

The elongation property of the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention is preferably as small as possible, preferably 45% or less, more preferably 40% or less.

There is a correlation between the elongation and the shrinkage stress, and the temperature during stretching is lowered and the stretching ratio is increased to increase the shrinkage stress and reduce the elongation.

Further, the single fiber fineness constituting the conjugated multifilament yarn as the drawn yarn is preferably 6 dtex or more, more preferably 8 dtex or more, in order to obtain the high repulsion feeling which is the maximum object of the present invention. Is 10 dtex or more. It is difficult to obtain a high resilience feeling like a rubber ball when the thick single yarn fineness of the conjugate multifilament yarn is thinner than 5 dtex. Near 8 dtex, the repulsion feeling is almost satisfactory, but with a thick single yarn fineness of 10 dtex or more, a fabric with a high repulsion feeling such as rubber ball can be obtained. When a single yarn fineness of 10 dtex or more of ordinary polyester multifilament yarn is used, bending resistance is large like bending a wire, and a hard cloth with a core is obtained. this is,
It is presumed that this is due to the back structure generated from the bonded cross section peculiar to the conjugate multifilament yarn.

The total fineness and constituent filaments (fi) of the conjugate multifilament yarn used in the present invention are
l) 33dtex-2fi as the combination of the numbers
1, 44dtex-3fil, 66dtex-4fi
1, 110 dtex-12 fil, 220 dtex-2
There are various types such as 4 fil and 330 dtex-10 fil,
It suffices to select a combination suitable for the target fabric characteristics and characteristics.

It is important that the conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is twisted in a twist coefficient of 300 to 30,000. In the case of woven fabric, preferably 3000-25000, more preferably 500
It is 0 to 20000. In the case of knitting, 600 to 10
000, more preferably 800 to 6000. When the twisting coefficient is 300 or less, the yarn does not converge well, so that the tarmi occurs partially and the yarn comes out of the knitting needle. Moreover, in the case of a woven fabric, a substantial twisting effect that creates a texture cannot be expected. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient is 30,000 or more, there is a problem in the additional twisting property, and the characteristic stretchability is lost.

However, twist coefficient α = T × D ^1/2 T: twist number (t / m) D: fineness (dtex) of the composite yarn.

In the recent use of women's clothing, the feeling of wearing comfort has become a major keyword. The stretchability of the fabric is emphasized as an elemental function that constitutes this feeling of wearing comfort. In the present invention, it is preferable that the woven or knitted fabric has a stretch ratio of 5% or more in the warp and / or weft directions. That is, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can exhibit an elongation rate of 3% or more in 2 WAY of warp / weft or 1 WAY by using the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is one in which the conjugate multifilament yarn having the above-mentioned extra-thick single yarn fineness is arranged in the warp direction and the weft direction. Alternatively, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, a conjugate multifilament yarn having a very thick single yarn fineness is arranged in either the warp direction or the weft direction. When arranging a conjugate multifilament yarn with a very thick single yarn fineness in either the warp direction or the weft direction,
It is also possible to obtain a mixed weave or knitted fabric in which fibers other than the conjugate multifilament yarn having a very thick single yarn fineness are arranged in the weft direction or the warp direction, if necessary.

That is, a staple spun yarn can be used as the other fiber other than the conjugated multifilament yarn. The use of the short fiber spun yarn can impart a unique texture to the surface, a surface effect such as fluff (touch), and functionality. The short fiber spun yarn as used herein includes natural fibers (wool, cotton, hemp, etc.) or natural fiber mixed spun yarns (eg, wool, cotton, hemp and polyester, etc.), and regenerated cellulose fibers typified by rayon, Newly developed refined cellulosic fibers (eg "TENCEL")
(Registered trademark)) and the like.

On the other hand, a cellulose fiber can be used as a fiber other than the conjugated multifilament yarn. The use of cellulosic fibers makes it possible to obtain a texture with the aim of producing a refreshing touch of dry touch. As the cellulose fiber, a multifilament type of cellulose fiber, that is, regenerated cellulose fiber represented by rayon and cupra is most suitable.

These woven and knitted woven and knitted fabrics are woven and knitted products having the temperamental characteristics (characteristics) of spun yarns and cellulose fibers, while having a high resilience.

In the present invention, it is preferable to use cellulose fiber or a composite yarn thereof on the other side. As the composite yarn, the most representative one is, for example, a mixed spun yarn of cellulose short fiber and polyester short fiber. Alternatively, it also includes a plied yarn of cellulose long fibers and polyester short fibers, and an opposite plied yarn of polyester long fibers and cellulose short fibers.

Further, when it is desired to exhibit characteristics such as peach and nubuck, it is possible by arranging sea-island split type and split fiber type ultrafine fibers in the warp or weft direction, subjecting to alkali weight reduction treatment, and splitting. is there. Furthermore, in the dyeing process, the fabric surface can be finely raised by sanding or needle cloth processing.

Further, in the drawing process of the above-mentioned spun undrawn yarn and semi-drawn yarn, the conventional known technique is applied to give unevenness of chic and scene, thereby expressing random unevenness of light and shade on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. You can also

In recent women's clothing applications, comfort in wearing has become a major keyword. The stretchability of the fabric is emphasized as an elemental function that constitutes this feeling of wearing comfort. In the present invention, it is preferable that the woven / knitted fabric has a stretch ratio of 3% or more, and more preferably 5% or more, in the warp and / or weft directions. That is, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can exhibit an elongation rate of 3% or more in 2 WAY of warp / weft or 1 WAY by using the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention.

The stretch ratio was measured based on the B method (constant load method) of the stretchability of 8.14 stretchability of the 8.14 stretch fabric of JIS L1096 general fabric test method.

Also, in the drawing process of the undrawn yarn or the semi-drawn yarn of the above-mentioned spun polyester conjugate multifilament yarn, the conventional well-known technique is applied to produce thick uneven yarn of chic & scene as warp and / or woven fabric. Or weft yarns, or warp yarns and / or weft yarns,
By giving unevenness, it is also possible to express random unevenness in light and shade on the surface of the woven or knitted material.

[0048]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described more specifically below based on examples.

Example 1 A polyester conjugate multifilament yarn having a very fine single yarn fineness according to the present invention is 100% polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.51.
After spinning a conjugated multifilament unstretched yarn in which a low-viscosity component consisting of and a high-viscosity component consisting of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.78 are laminated in parallel at a weight composite ratio of 50:50, Was drawn by a drawing machine of No. 6 to produce a conjugate multifilament yarn of 66dtex-4 filament.

The fiber characteristics of this multifilament yarn are
As a result of measurement based on JIS L1023 “Chemical fiber filament yarn test method” and JIS L1096 “Synthetic fiber filament bulky yarn test method”, 6
It was 1.6 dtex, strength 2.9 cN / dtex, boiling water shrinkage ratio 12.8, and shrinkage stress: 0.20 cN / dtex. Next, double twister # 308 manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
Using a machine, the number of twists was 1200 T / M, and twisted in the S and Z directions. Next, using a high pressure steam set machine manufactured by Ashida Seisakusho, a twist stop set was performed at 70 ° C for 40 minutes. S-twisted yarns of the above conjugate multifilament yarns are arranged as warps, and S-twisted yarns and Z twisted yarns of the above-mentioned conjugate multifilament yarns are arranged as weft yarns, and a satin design gives a finish density of 210 × 95 (pieces / i).
n) and woven on a rapier loom. Subsequently, this raw machine was put into a dyeing process, and processed in a process of relaxing / scouring liquid stream → drying → intermediate set → weight reduction → dying → finishing set to obtain a product having a finish density of 207 × 92 (pieces / in). . In particular, the jet flow relaxation was performed by selecting a jet dyeing machine with a low tension and applying a sufficient buffing process at a temperature of 135 ° C. The resulting product had sufficient stretchability in the warp and weft directions, and the woven fabric had a rubbery ball-like, high resilience, and was a unique woven fabric with tailor-made appearance. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 2) Using the same conjugate multifilament yarn as in Example 1, two 66dtex-4 filaments were drawn and aligned with a rewinder manufactured by Murata Manufacturing Co., Ltd.
Wind up to 2dtex-8 filament equivalent, then
Number of twists is 12 using the same company's double twister # 308 machine
The yarn was twisted in the S direction at 00 T / M. Next, using a high pressure steam set machine manufactured by Ashida Seisakusho, a twist stop set was performed at 70 ° C for 40 minutes. For both warp and weft, S-twisted yarn of the above conjugate multifilament yarn is arranged to have a flat design and a finishing density of 9
It was designed to 0 × 70 (books / in) and woven with a rapier loom. Subsequently, this greige machine was put into the dyeing process similar to that of Example 1 to obtain a product having a finish density of 92 × 72 (pieces / inch).
The resulting product has sufficient stretchability in the warp and weft directions, and the woven fabric has a unique high resilience and lightweight feeling that is like a rubber ball and has a high resilience and light weight. became. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 3) The same conjugate multifilament yarn as in Example 1 was used, 66dtex-4 filament was used in a rewinder manufactured by Murata, and a twisting machine manufactured by Ishikawa S was used at 120 T / M. Twisted in the Z direction. Next, use a high pressure steam set machine manufactured by Ashida Seisakusho at 70 ℃
The twist setting was performed in 40 minutes. Using a 26G double-sided circular knitting machine manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki, in order to prevent skewing, the conjugate multifilament yarns were knitted into a double-sided structure with an arrangement of S-twisted yarns, S-twisted yarns, Z-twisted yarns, and Z-twisted yarns. The obtained knitted fabric was made into a product through a normal knitting process (opening → scouring → dying → finishing set). The obtained product has a sufficient stretchability in the warp and weft directions, and is a knitted fabric, yet it has a generous and high resilience like a woven fabric. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 4) The polyester conjugate multifilament yarn having an extremely thick single yarn fineness according to the present invention had a homo PTT with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.18 and an intrinsic viscosity (I).
V) 0.60 homo PET is laminated in parallel in a weight composite ratio of 50:50 to form a conjugate multi-filament unstretched yarn, which is then stretched by an ordinary stretching machine.
A 66dtex-4 filament conjugated multifilament yarn was produced. The fiber characteristics of this multifilament yarn were measured based on JIS L1023 “Chemical fiber filament yarn test method” and JIS L1096 “Synthetic fiber filament bulk textured yarn test method”, and as a result, 62.5 dtex, strength 3.2 cN / dte.
x, boiling water shrinkage ratio 15.4 Shrinkage stress: 0.32 cN / d
It was tex.

Next, by using a double twister # 308 machine manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., the number of twisted yarns was 1200 T / M, and S and Z were obtained.
Twisted in the direction.

Next, twist setting was carried out at 70 ° C. for 40 minutes using a high pressure steam set machine manufactured by Ashida Seisakusho. S-twisted yarns of the above conjugate multifilament yarns are arranged as warps, and S-twisted yarns and Z twisted yarns of the above-mentioned conjugate multifilament yarns are arranged as weft yarns, and a finish density of 210 × 95 with a satin structure
(Book / in) designed and woven with a rapier loom. Then, this greige machine is put into dyeing processing, and it is processed in the process of continuous softer → liquid flow relaxing → drying → intermediate set → weight loss → dyeing → finishing set, finishing density 2207 × 95 (books / i
The product of n) was obtained. The resulting product has extremely high stretchability in the warp and weft directions, and the fabric has a super-repulsive feeling like a rubber ball and a coreless soft feeling, which is a unique feature of tailor-made look. It became a certain fabric.
The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1 66 dtex-4 filament (boiling water shrinkage rate: 8.0%, dry heat shrinkage rate: 1) was used as a polyester filament drawn yarn having a normal extra-thickness single yarn fineness.
1.5%) was used to carry out the same woven design, weaving process, and dyeing process as in Example 1 to obtain a product.

The obtained product had a high resilience, but had bending hardness like wire, and was not suitable for Western clothing applications where tailoring is required due to its traditional texture. The results are shown in Table 1. As a matter of course, stretchability was not recognized.

(Comparative Example 2) A 66 dtex-4 filament (boiling water shrinkage: 8.0%, dry heat shrinkage: 1) was used as a polyester filament drawn yarn having a normal extra-thick single yarn fineness.
1.5%) was used to carry out the same knit design and dyeing process as in Example 2 to obtain a product. However, the knitting property was very difficult because the yarn was thick and difficult to bend, and there were many defects. The obtained product was a knitted fabric having a feeling of repulsion like a woven fabric but had a hard texture and could not be used as a knit fabric for outer garments. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0059]

[Table 1]

(Embodiment 5) The same 66 dtex as in Embodiment 1
After using a multi-filament yarn of -4 filament and winding the split bobbin with a rewinder manufactured by Murata Manufacturing,
Double twister made by Ishikawa Seisakusho 1 in S and Z directions
200 T / M twisted yarn was made. Next, the twist set at 70 ° C. for 40 minutes was used as a warp yarn of S and Z two alternating arrangements. A commercially available 100% cotton 131 dtex (cotton count 45S) spun yarn was used as the weft yarn, and was woven into a flat design using a Rapier loom manufactured by Tsudakoma. The vertical and horizontal densities of the raw machine were 100 / 2.54 cm and 75 / 2.54 cm, respectively. As for the condition of this dying process,
Relax at 0 ° C, dry heat at 180 ° C, and perform presetting with a pin tenter without wrinkles in the width and length directions. Then, reduce the polyester side by 10% with alkali, and then dye by jetting. The polyester side was dyed at 130 ° C. by a machine, and then the cotton side was dyed and a 160 ° C. dry finish set was carried out. The vertical and horizontal densities after finishing are 110 / 2.54 cm, 9 respectively
It was 5 pieces / 2.54 cm.

The obtained product had a high resilience like a rubber ball and a woven fabric with an unprecedented characteristic of tailoring with a soft touch on the surface. Also, it has sufficient stretchability in the vertical direction. The results are shown in Table 2.

(Embodiment 6) The same 66 dtex as in Embodiment 1.
After using a multi-filament yarn of -4 filament and winding the split bobbin with a rewinder manufactured by Murata Manufacturing,
Double twister made by Ishikawa Seisakusho 1 in S and Z directions
200 T / M twisted yarn was made. Next, the twist set at 70 ° C. for 40 minutes was used as a warp yarn of S and Z two alternating arrangements.

Purified cellulose fiber (“Tencel” (registered trademark)) 14 manufactured by Accordy Co., Ltd., England as a weft thread 14
8 dtex (English cotton count 40S) spun yarn was used to weave into a flat design using a Tsudakoma rapier loom. The vertical and horizontal densities of the greige were 100 / 2.54 cm and 87 / 2.54 cm, respectively. This raw machine is used as a dyeing process, conditions such as refining, liquid flow relaxation, presetting,
Finished with alkali weight loss, fried hair, enzyme weight loss treatment, dyeing with a jet dyeing machine, and finishing set. The vertical and horizontal densities after finishing are 120 / 2.54 cm, 1 respectively.
The number was 00 / 2.54 cm.

The obtained product has a high resilience like a rubber ball, and the surface is a uniquely woven fabric that has a soft feel with micro fluffy fuzz. Became. Also, it has sufficient stretchability in the vertical direction. The results are shown in Table 2.

Example 7 Commercially available cotton 100 as warp yarn
% 98 dtex (cotton count 60S) spun yarn, the same conjugate multifilament yarn as in Example 1 was used as the weft yarn, and the additional twist yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1 was used. Next, using a Tsudakoma rapier loom, weaving was performed into a flat structure.
Vertical length and width density of raw machine 97 / 2.54c each
m, 90 pieces / 2.54 cm. As the dyeing process and conditions of this greige machine, 110 ° C. liquid flow was first relaxed, 180 ° C. dry heat was used to preset with a pin tenter without wrinkles in the width and length directions, and subsequently the polyester side with alkali was used. After reducing the amount by 10%, the polyester side was dyed at 130 ° C. with a jet dyeing machine, then the cotton side was dyed, and a 160 ° C. dry finish set was carried out. The vertical and horizontal densities after finishing were 115 lines / 2.54 cm and 95 lines / 2.54 cm, respectively.

The obtained product had a high resilience like a rubber ball and a woven fabric with an unprecedented characteristic that had a soft touch of cotton on the surface and had a tailored appearance. It also has sufficient stretchability in the horizontal direction. The results are shown in Table 2. The results are shown in Table 2.

(Example 8) The same conjugate multifilament yarn as in Example 1 was used, 66dtex-4 filament was used in a rewinder manufactured by Murata Manufacturing, and S / T at 1200 T / M using a plying machine manufactured by Ishikawa Manufacturing. Twisted in the Z direction. Next, use a high pressure steam set machine manufactured by Ashida Seisakusho at 70 ℃
The twist set at 40 minutes was used in an alternating arrangement of two S and Z.

For the weft yarns, cupra 148 dtex of regenerated cellulose fiber filament was subjected to real twist of SZ1200T / M, and a flat design was woven in an alternating arrangement of two SZs. The vertical and horizontal densities of the raw machine are 100 / 2.54c each
m, 75 pieces / 2.54 cm. As the dyeing process and conditions of this greige machine, 110 ° C. liquid flow was first relaxed, 180 ° C. dry heat was used to preset with a pin tenter without wrinkles in the width and length directions, and subsequently the polyester side with alkali was used. After 10% weight reduction, polyester dye was dyed on one side at 130 ° C. with a jet dyeing machine, and then 160 ° C. dry finish set was carried out. The vertical and horizontal densities after finishing were 103 lines / 2.54 cm and 95 lines / 2.54 cm, respectively.

The obtained product had a high repulsive feeling such as a rubber ball, and the surface touch was rich in a refreshing feeling with a dry feeling, and it was a woven fabric with unprecedented characteristics of tailoring. Also, it has sufficient stretchability in the vertical direction. The results are shown in Table 2.

(Comparative Example 3) 66dtex-4 filaments (boiling water shrinkage rate: 8.0%, dry heat shrinkage rate: 1) were used as polyester filament drawn yarns of ordinary extra-thick single yarn fineness.
1.5%) was used to carry out the same woven design, weaving process, and dyeing process as in Example 5 to obtain a product.

The obtained product had a high resilience, but had bending hardness like wire, and was not suitable for Western clothing applications where tailoring is required due to its traditional texture. The results are shown in Table 2. As a matter of course, stretchability was not recognized.

(Comparative Example 4) A 66dtex-4 filament (boiling water shrinkage ratio: 8.0%, dry heat shrinkage ratio: 1) was used as a polyester filament drawn yarn having a normal extra-thickness single yarn fineness.
1.5%) was used to carry out the same woven design and dyeing process as in Example 7 to obtain a product.

The obtained product had a high resilience, but had a bending hardness like wire, and it had a natural texture, and naturally, stretchability was not recognized. The results are shown in Table 2.
Shown in.

[0074]

[Table 2]

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric comprising a conjugate multifilament yarn composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymers having a single yarn fineness of 6 dtex or more and different heat shrinkage characteristics. 2. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the conjugated multifilament yarn is used in either the warp direction or the weft direction. 3. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn is used in either the warp or weft direction and the short fiber spun yarn is used in the other. 4. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn is used in either the warp direction or the weft direction, and cellulose fiber or a composite yarn thereof is used in the other direction. 5. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a conjugate multifilament yarn twisted in a twist coefficient α of 300 to 30,000 is used. However, twist coefficient α = T × D ^1/2 T: twist number (t / m) D: fineness of composite yarn (dtex) 6. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven or knitted fabric has a stretch ratio of 3% or more in the warp and / or weft directions. 7. The woven / knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the woven / knitted fabric has thick and thin unevenness in the warp and / or weft directions.