JP2017193531A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic capable of maintaining stable pearl luster over a long period of tim, giving excellent moisture retention to the skin and further promoting percutaneous absorption of a drug.SOLUTION: There is provided a cosmetic which exhibits pearl gloss and comprises (A) a linear POE alkyl ether having an HLB value of 10 to 20 and an alkyl chain length of 10 to 24 and/or a POE-POP alkyl ether, (B) a linear higher alcohol having an alkyl chain length of 14 to 18, (C) a hydrophilic dihydric alcohol and (D) water.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention has a pearly luster appearance, is stable for a long period of time without being affected by temperature changes, has an excellent appearance, has an excellent moisturizing function, and further has a transdermal absorbability of a drug. Related to excellent cosmetics.

  In order to enhance the aesthetics of cosmetics, pearlescent pigments and fish scales coated with titanium dioxide on thin mica particles and pearlizing agents using crystallization of glycol distearate are used as techniques for imparting pearl luster. ing. However, the composition of pearl pigments is limited to make-up products, etc. due to the raw material characteristics, and the pearlizing agent is also used exclusively as a cleaning agent, and can impart a stable pearly luster to low-viscosity lotions. There wasn't. In addition, formulation technology that imparts a pearly luster to lotions by blending highly crystalline ingredients such as ceramide has been published, but there are problems with stability such as coagulation precipitation, and pearly luster is not sufficient There wasn't.

JP2012-167041A JP 2010-241795 A JP 2006-248925 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-128639 JP 11-79933 A JP-A 63-287718

  The present invention maintains a pearly luster that is stable over a long period of time, can impart excellent moisture retention and barrier properties to the skin, and can further promote the percutaneous absorption of a drug. The purpose is to provide a fee.

As a result of intensive studies, the present inventor has found that the above problem can be solved by the following method.
(A) A linear POE alkyl ether and / or POE · POP alkyl ether having an HLB value in the range of 10 to 20 and an alkyl chain length of 10 to 24 (B) an alkyl chain length of 14 to 18 A cosmetic comprising a linear higher alcohol (C) and a hydrophilic dihydric alcohol (D) water in the range of 1 to 5 and exhibiting pearly luster.
This will be specifically described below.
First, the POE alkyl ether and / or POE · POP alkyl ether of (A) is preferably linear and has an HLB value of 10 to 20 and an alkyl chain length of 10 to 24. For example, POE decyl ether, POE lauryl ether, POE myristyl ether, POE alkyl (12-14) ether, POE cetyl ether, POE oleyl ether, POE stearyl ether, POE behenyl ether, POE tridecyl ether, POE · POP butyl ether, POE / POP decyl ether, POE / POP lauryl ether, POE / POP myristyl ether, POE / POP alkyl (12-14) ether, POE / POP cetyl ether, POE / POP stearyl ether, POE / POP behenyl ether, POE / POP Decyl tetradecyl ether or the like can be used singly or in combination of two or more.

In the present invention, the HLB value is indicated by IOB × 10 in the organic conceptual diagram. The IOB in the organic conceptual diagram refers to the ratio of the inorganic value (IV) to the organic value (OV) in the organic conceptual diagram, that is, “inorganic value (IV) / organic value (OV)”.
The organic conceptual diagram was proposed by Satoshi Fujita, and details thereof are described in “Pharmaceutical Bulletin”, 1954, vol. 2, 2, pp. 163-173; "Area of Chemistry", 1957, vol. 11, 10, pp. 719-725; "Fragrance Journal", 1981, vol. 50, pp. 79-82. That is, methane (CH4) is the source of all organic compounds, all other compounds are all methane derivatives, and a certain numerical value is set for each of the carbon number, substituent, transformation part, ring, etc. Are added to obtain an organic value and an inorganic value. This value is plotted on a diagram with the organic value on the X axis and the inorganic value on the Y axis. This organic conceptual diagram is also shown in “Organic conceptual diagram-basics and application” (by Yoshio Koda, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).
Of course, surfactants other than (A) POE alkyl ether and POE / POP alkyl ether can be blended, but 30 wt% or less of the blending amount of (A) POE alkyl ether or POE / POP alkyl ether is preferred.
The blending amount of the POE alkyl ether or POE / POP alkyl ether of (A) is preferably 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight.

The higher alcohol (B) is preferably linear and has an alkyl chain length of 14-18. For example, myristyl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, coconut oil alcohol and the like can be used singly or in combination of two or more.
The blending amount is preferably 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight.
A linear alcohol or branched higher alcohol having an alkyl chain length of more than 18 can also be blended, but varies depending on various conditions, but a linear higher alcohol having an alkyl chain length in the range of 14-18. 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less of the blending amount.

  The cosmetic material having pearly luster according to the present invention can improve pearly luster and storage stability by blending (A) and (B) at a specific content ratio. That is, (A) :( B) is preferably in the range of 1: 0.01 to 1: 3, more preferably in the range of 1: 0.05 to 2: 3. (Weight ratio)

The hydrophilic dihydric alcohol (C) is not particularly limited as long as it can be used as a cosmetic raw material. For example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1, 2-octanediol etc. can be used by 1 type, or 2 or more types of mixture. The blending amount is preferably 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight, and more preferably 1% by weight to 30% by weight.

The water of (D) should just be water which can be used for cosmetics, and uses 1 or more types of purified water, natural water, hot spring water, etc.

Components other than (A) to (D) can also be blended.
One of them is (E) oil. The oil content is not particularly limited as long as it can be used as a cosmetic raw material. Examples include avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, shea fat, soybean oil, camellia oil, cottonseed oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, owl, coconut oil, beef tallow, pork fat, squalane, beeswax, carnauba wax , Whale wax, lanolin, liquid lanolin, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, candelilla wax, montan wax, shellac wax, rice wax, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri (capryl / caprate), penta-2-ethylhexanoate Elite, various fats and oils such as hydrogenated products, and waxes.
Cholesterol, lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, branched fatty acid (C12-31) cholesteryl, isostearate cholesteryl, 12-hydroxystearate cholesteryl, ricinoleate cholesteryl, macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, oleate dihydrocholesteryl, nonanoate cholesteryl, butyrate cholesteryl, butyrate dihydro Cholesterol or other cholesterol or derivatives thereof, phytosterol, lanolin fatty acid phytosteryl, isostearate phytosteryl, 12-hydroxystearate phytosteryl, ricinoleate phytosteryl, macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl or oleate phytosterol or derivatives thereof, lanolin, adsorbed purified lanolin, Liquid lanolin, lanolin alcohol, Lanolin alcohol or its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, lanolin fatty acid, hexa (hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythrityl, tetra (hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythrityl, hexahydroxystearic acid dipentaerythrityl, tripolyhydroxystearic acid dipentaerythrityl Dipentaerythritol derivatives such as dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl / octyl) Dodecyl), dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl), la Acryloyloxy glutamine di (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl), lauroyl glutamate, di (cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl), myristoyl methyl -β- alanine (phytosteryl / decyltetradecyl) water-holding property oil such.
Mineral oils such as paraffin, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, olefin oligomer, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, pristane, hydrogenated polybutene, hydrogenated polydecene, heavy liquid isoparaffin.
Esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, octyldodecyl myristate, and the like.
Oil-soluble vitamins such as vitamin A oil, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A acetate, riboflavin, vitamin C dipalmitate, ergocalciferol, vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin E nicotinate.
Oil-soluble components of plants such as eucalyptus oil, wild rose oil, roman chamomile oil, fennel oil, mint oil, bergamot oil, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, basil oil, thyme oil, oil-soluble licorice extract.

Among these, water-containing oils such as cholesterol or a derivative thereof, phytosterol or a derivative thereof, lanolin or a derivative thereof, and a dipentaerythritol derivative exhibit an excellent moisturizing effect and increase the utility value of the cosmetic of the present invention. Among hydrated oils, lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, branched fatty acid (C12-31) cholesteryl, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, cholesteryl ricinoleate, macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, dihydrocholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl nonanoate, Cholesterol derivatives such as cholesteryl butyrate and dihydrocholesteryl butyrate, lanolin fatty acid phytosteryl, phytosteryl isostearate, phytosteryl 12-hydroxystearate, phytosteryl ricinoleate, macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, phytosteryl oleate, and the like solve the problems of the present invention. I found out that
In addition, when mix | blending cholesterol and a phytosterol, the direction where other oils are used together raises the utility value of the cosmetics of this invention.
The oil component of the cosmetic material having a pearly luster according to the present invention is preferably blended with a hydrated oil component because it exhibits a particularly excellent moisturizing effect. The blending amount is preferably 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight.

In addition to this, the blending of the water-soluble active ingredient (F) is also effective, and it was found that the present invention enhances transdermal absorption of the water-soluble active ingredient.
Examples of water-soluble active ingredients include betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, β-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, Amino acids and salts and derivatives thereof such as cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, tryptophan, histidine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosine, creatine; keratin, collagen, elastin , Conchiolin, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, casein and other hydrolyzed peptides or water-soluble derivatives thereof; vitamin C such as ascorbic acid and its salts such as sodium; ascorbine Ascorbic acid alkyl ethers such as ethyl ether, ascorbic acid glucoside such as ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and its fatty acid ester, ascorbic acid phosphate sodium salt and ascorbyl phosphate magnesium salt, palmitoyl ascorbyl phosphate sodium salt, Ascorbic acid derivatives such as ascorbic acid phosphate ester salts such as tocopheryl phosphate ascorbyl; thiamine hydrochloride, thiamine sulfate, riboflavin, riboflavin acetate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, flavin adenine dinucleotide, cyanocobalamin, folic acid, nicotinic acid, nicotinic acid Nicotinic acids such as amide, vitamin B group such as choline; other vitamins such as pantothenic acid, panthenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, biotin; Water-soluble vitamin Es such as ferrol phosphates; hydroquinone glycosides and esters thereof such as arbutin and α-arbutin; kojic acid, ellagic acid salts, tranexamic acid salts and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid salts and derivatives thereof, placenta Extracts, acetylglucosamine, glutathione, glycyrrhizic acid and derivatives thereof, glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, hinokitiol, guaiazulene, allantoin, indomethacin, caffeine, α-lipoic acid, rutin and glycosides; hesperidin and glycosides Derivatives such as: various plant extracts such as guava and nishigayanagi extract.
One or more of these water-soluble active ingredients are selected according to the purpose.
In addition to this, there is no problem in blending a water-soluble component.

Components other than the above (A) to (F) can be blended as necessary. However, it is a matter of course that it is blended within a range that maintains the gist of the present invention, such as maintenance of pearl luster.
For example,
Examples of the aqueous phase component include polyhydric alcohols such as polyethylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, maltitol, and glycerglucoside.
Inorganic salts of sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, aluminum chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and aluminum sulfate.
Examples include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, sodium citrate, disodium hydrogen phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, polysaccharides, chelating agents, preservatives, dyes, and the like, which can be blended as necessary.

The production method of the present invention can be prepared according to a conventional method using an emulsifier such as a propeller mixer, a paddle mixer, or a disper mixer. That is, the oil phase and the water phase are heated as necessary, and the oil phase and the water phase are combined while stirring.

  The cosmetic material having pearly luster according to the present invention has a translucent or cloudy appearance with a pearly luster, and the shape is preferably liquid to emulsion. For example, lotion, milky lotion, cosmetic liquid, Although it is a bath agent etc., a dosage form will not be ask | required if it has pearl luster.

EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated concretely, the technical scope of this invention is not limited to these illustrations.

Tables 1 and 2 show the compositions and results of Examples and Comparative Examples. (The amount is in parts by weight)
In the production method, the oil phase and the water phase were each heated to 80 ° C., and the oil phase was gradually added to the water phase while stirring with a disper mixer, and then cooled.
Evaluation was performed on the following items.
(1) Pearly gloss immediately after manufacture, (2) Optical anisotropy immediately after manufacture, (3) Pearl glossiness in storage stability test product for 1 month (test temperature: 5 ° C, 25 ° C, 40 ° C) Changes, precipitation and separation were evaluated by visual observation.
The average score of each temperature was determined according to the following criteria.

(Test 1) Pearly luster (immediately after production)
The sample was filled in a 50 mL transparent glass container, and the pearl luster was visually observed.
(Evaluation criteria)
4: There is a very strong pearly glossiness 3: There is a pearly glossiness 2: There is not so much pearly glossiness 1: There is no pearly glossiness (judgment) (average score)
◎: 3.5 points or more ○: 3 points or more and less than 3.5 points △: 2 points or more and less than 3 points ×: Less than 2 points

(Test 2) Optical anisotropy The presence or absence of optical anisotropy was visually evaluated according to the state when the sample filled in a 50 mL transparent glass container was placed between the orthogonal polarizing plates and observed.

(Test 3) Storage stability Samples filled in a 50 mL transparent glass container were stored in a thermostatic bath at 5 ° C., 25 ° C., and 40 ° C. for 1 month, and then the change with time of each sample was visually evaluated.
(Evaluation criteria)
3: Almost the same as immediately after pearl gloss, no precipitation, separation, etc. 2: Slightly less or slight precipitation, separation, etc. are observed compared to immediately after pearl gloss, but commercial value 1: Average score of 5 ° C, 25 ° C, and 40 ° C scores that are apparently less than the pearly luster immediately after, or that are clearly precipitated, separated, etc. Judged by.
(Judgment) (Average score)
◎: 2.5 points or more ○: 2 points or more and less than 2.5 points ×: Less than 2 points

As is clear from the results in Table 1, Examples 1 to 12 were excellent in pearly luster immediately after production, and were also excellent in pearly luster and stability in a storage stability test. On the other hand, as shown in Table 2, in Comparative Example 1 in which the pearl pigment was blended, the pearl luster immediately after production was good, but the pearl pigment aggregated and precipitated during storage. In Comparative Examples 2 to 4, which do not contain a higher alcohol having an alkyl chain length of 14 to 18, there is almost no pearly luster, or the pearly luster disappears during storage, and the pearly luster is easily affected by the storage temperature. It could not be maintained. In Comparative Examples 5 to 7 using POE alkyl ether or POE • POP alkyl ether having an HLB value of 10 or less, no pearly luster was observed and no optical anisotropy was observed.
In Comparative Examples 8 to 10 using a surfactant having a structure different from that of linear POE alkyl ether or POE / POP alkyl ether having an alkyl chain length in the range of 10 to 24, although the HLB value is 10 to 20. Although some pearly luster was observed immediately after production, the pearly luster disappeared or separated during storage.
In Comparative Example 11 in which no hydrophilic dihydric alcohol was blended, the pearl gloss immediately after production was small, and the pearl gloss disappeared during storage. Comparative Example 12 showed optical anisotropy by polarizing plate observation and had a lamellar structure, but did not show pearly luster.

  From these results, linear POE alkyl ethers and / or POE • POP alkyl ethers having an HLB value in the range of 10 to 20 and an alkyl chain length of 10 to 24, and an alkyl chain length of 14 to 18 It is suggested that the blend of linear higher alcohol, hydrophilic dihydric alcohol and water, which is in the range, is an essential component that forms a high aesthetic and stable pearly luster.

(Test 4) Moisturizing test The moisture content of the skin when the compositions of Example 1, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 13 were applied to the skin was measured with a skin surface angle layer moisture content measuring device. (N = 11, 21 ± 2 ° C., RH45 ± 10%, SKICON-200EX (IBS)
The water content was expressed as a numerical value with the measured value before application being 1. The results are shown in FIG.
In Comparative Example 13, a preparation was prepared by substituting water in place of the oil mixture of Example 1 (dihydrocholesteryl oleate and cholesteryl nonanoate). Comparative Example 13 does not contain oil, -It forms a gel structure and exhibits a pearly luster.)

  As is clear from FIG. 1, the moisture content of each layer was higher in Example 1 than in Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 13, and there was a tendency for the moisture retention to last for a long time. That is, it was shown that the cosmetics having pearly luster according to the present invention are excellent in aesthetics and excellent in the effect of imparting moisture to the skin, and are highly useful as cosmetics.

(Test 5) Moisture retention function test Cover the mouth of the container containing water with a membrane filter coated with the composition of Example 1, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 13, and measure the weight of the water in the container in a low humidity environment. Measurements were taken at the start of measurement and 48 hours later, and changes in weight were observed. The moisture transpiration suppression rate was expressed as a percentage obtained by subtracting the water loss amount of the test product coated product from the water loss amount of the product without the composition divided by the water loss amount of the uncoated product. The results are shown in FIG.

  As is clear from FIG. 2, the suppression of moisture transpiration was not observed in Comparative Example 1, but a remarkable effect of suppressing moisture transpiration was confirmed in Example 1 even when compared with Comparative Example 13. That is, it was shown that the cosmetics having pearly luster according to the present invention are excellent in aesthetics, excellent in the effect of imparting moisture to the skin, and in the moisture retention function of the skin, and highly useful as cosmetics.

(Test 6) Transdermal absorbability 50 mg of the test product was applied to a 2.0 cm square Yucatan micro-pig skin section, stored in a filter paper lined with filter paper moistened with buffered saline, and placed in a 32 ° C. incubator. It was stored for 4 hours and transdermally absorbed. After completion of percutaneous absorption, the test article applied to the surface of the skin slice was wiped off with Kimwipe, and the skin surface was further peeled with cellophane tape three times. Then, it heated at 60 degreeC for 70 second, and epidermis was extract | collected with the tweezers. The collected epidermis was placed in a 3 mL mobile phase and extracted with shaking overnight. Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate in the extract was measured by high performance liquid chromatography. The high performance liquid chromatography was measured under the following conditions.
Column: octadecyl silylated silica gel, mobile phase: potassium dihydrogen phosphate / acetonitrile, detection method: ultraviolet absorption, detection wavelength: 254 nm.
Test articles were tested using the compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. The results are shown in FIG.

  As is clear from FIG. 3, Example 1 showed higher transdermal absorbability than Comparative Example 1. That is, it was shown that the cosmetics having pearly luster according to the present invention are excellent in aesthetics, excellent in moisturizing function, excellent in percutaneous absorption of active ingredients into the skin, and highly useful as cosmetics.

The layered structure (α-gel) can be confirmed by a known method. For example, when X-ray scattering measurement was performed on Example 2, a repetitive scattering pattern derived from a lamellar structure was obtained in the small angle region, and a sharp single peak scattering image peculiar to the hexagonal system in the wide angle region. It was suggested that the α-gel structure was taken. Further, a layered structure was observed by transmission electron microscope observation using a frozen cleaved replica (FIG. 4).

(Test 4) As a result of the moisturizing test, the horizontal axis represents the time (minutes) after application, and the vertical axis represents the skin moisture value before application as 1, indicating the rate of change. (Test 5) The result of the moisture retention function test. (Test 6) The results of transdermal absorbability of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, and the vertical axis represents the amount of absorption (mg) per gram of epidermis of GK2 (dipotassium glycyrrhizinate). 4 is a transmission electron micrograph using the frozen cleaving replica of Example 2. FIG.

Claims (6)

(A) A linear POE alkyl ether and / or POE · POP alkyl ether having an HLB value in the range of 10 to 20 and an alkyl chain length of 10 to 24 (B) an alkyl chain length of 14 to 18 A cosmetic comprising a linear higher alcohol (C) and a hydrophilic dihydric alcohol (D) water in the range of 1 to 5 and exhibiting pearly luster.   Furthermore, (E) Cosmetics characterized by exhibiting the pearl luster of Claim 1 containing an oil component. The cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the oil of (E) is one or more hydrated oils selected from cholesterol or a derivative thereof, phytosterol or a derivative thereof, lanolin or a derivative thereof, and a dipentaerythritol derivative.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (F) a water-soluble active ingredient. 5. The weight ratio of (A) POE alkyl ether and / or POE · POP alkyl ether to (B) higher alcohol is such that (A) :( B) is 1: 0.05 to 2: 3. Cosmetics in any one of.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the preparation is a lotion, a liquid cosmetic liquid, or a liquid bath preparation.