JP4228112B2 - Fabrics and textiles with excellent moisture absorption / release properties - Google Patents

Fabrics and textiles with excellent moisture absorption / release properties Download PDF

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Publication number
JP4228112B2
JP4228112B2 JP2002167463A JP2002167463A JP4228112B2 JP 4228112 B2 JP4228112 B2 JP 4228112B2 JP 2002167463 A JP2002167463 A JP 2002167463A JP 2002167463 A JP2002167463 A JP 2002167463A JP 4228112 B2 JP4228112 B2 JP 4228112B2
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yarn
fiber
fabric
moisture absorption
weight
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JP2004011068A (en
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右広 西田
完次 十河
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は着用快適性に優れた吸放湿性布帛及び繊維製品に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来、衣服及びその他衣料、作業着用途には綿やレーヨン、酢酸セルロースなどセルロース系繊維が多用されている。該セルロース系繊維は優れた吸湿、吸汗性能を有し着用快適性に優れたものであるが、強度面やW&W性、染色堅牢度などの性能面は消費者の十分なケアが必要であり、かつ保水性が良好であるために乾き難いなど、様々な消費者クレームが挙げられる現状にある。また、ポリエステルやポリアミド、ポリアクリロニトリル、ポリオレフィンなど合成繊維は天然繊維と比較し強度面やW&W性、染色堅牢性に優れたものであるが、合繊特有のぬめり感の強い風合いであり吸湿・吸汗性に乏しく蒸れ感、べとつき感を感じるものであった。
【0003】
上記合成繊維、とりわけポリエステルは価格的に安価であり優れた形態安定性、速乾性を有する素材であるが、ポリエステル100%からなる商品群は消費低迷、製品価格破壊の影響を受け、残念ながら消費者の購買意欲を掻き立てるものには成り得ていない。ポリエステル表面親水化によって吸湿・吸汗性を付与したもの等、ポリエステルの表面改質素材も多数上市、提案されているが消費者からは一部スポーツ衣料用途や作業着用途等を除いてまだまだ認識されていない現状にあり、綿など天然繊維や再生繊維、半合成繊維との交編織、交撚、混繊、混紡等を施した布帛構造物が上市、提案されている。
【0004】
布帛構造物全体に対する繊維重量に関して天然繊維や再生繊維、半合成繊維の重量が大きくなると風合いや吸湿・吸汗性は良好なものとなるが、布帛の引裂強度や染色堅牢度、W&W性等の消費性能面で問題が生じ易く、強度やその他取扱い性能を向上させる為には合成繊維を一定割合以上複合させねばならない。更には速乾性を向上させて従来素材とは相反する性能を与えるためにも疎水性合成繊維、特にポリエステル繊維などを混繊、混紡、合撚、交編織することが望ましいが、以下のような課題が生じる。
【0005】
ポリエステル繊維など疎水性合成繊維を主体とする組み合せにすると強度面では好適なものに仕上がるが、蒸れ感を感じさせるものになるため親水性合成繊維、取り分け高吸放湿性を有するアクリレート系合成繊維等を適当量組み合せた商品も上市されてきている。しかしながら該アクリレート系繊維は染色性に乏しく布帛表面が白茶けた感じに仕上り、同色性が得られ難いため用途が制約されてしまうという問題を抱えていた。
【0006】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は上記の如き従来の問題を解消し、吸湿・吸汗性に優れ、更には良好な速乾性を有する着用快適性に優れた布帛及び繊維製品を提供することを課題とするものである。より詳細には高吸放湿性アクリレート系繊維を効果的に糸条の芯部を形成させるように複合した糸条を用いることによって布帛表面品位を向上させつつ、衣服内気候その他着用快適性に優れた布帛及び繊維製品を提供することを課題とするものである。
【0007】
【課題を解決するための手段】
即ち、本発明は以下の構成からなる。
1.高吸放湿性合成繊維、ポリエステル繊維及び親水性繊維を含んで構成される布帛であって、該高吸放湿性合成繊維、該ポリエステル繊維が布帛重量のうち、それぞれ3重量%以上20重量%以下、45重量%以上85重量%以下を占めてなり、高吸放湿性合成繊維が架橋型アクリレート系繊維であり、布帛を構成する糸条は架橋アクリレート系繊維が芯部を構成しポリエステル繊維及び親水性繊維が周囲をラッピングしており、且つ下記の(1)〜(3)の要件を満足することを特徴とする吸放湿性に優れた布帛。
(1)20℃、65%RH環境と30℃、90%RH環境下の吸湿量差(ΔW)が1.0%以上
(2)発汗時の衣服内湿度が70%RH以下
(3)滴下法による吸水速度が1秒以下
.生地目付が100〜350g/m、フラジール法による通気度が1.5cc/cm・sec.以上である上記第1に記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛。
.親水性繊維が獣毛、綿、レーヨン、セルロースアセテート、ポリノジック、ポリアミド、プロミックスの各繊維から選択される少なくとも1種類の繊維であり、前記親水性繊維を含んで構成された複合紡績糸の単糸、若しくは長短複合紡績糸の単糸が下記式(4)で示される撚係数K1で加撚されており、単糸、双糸、三子撚の何れか、若しくは組み合せで製織編されてなることを特徴とする上記第1又は第2に記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛。
(4)2.5≦K1≦6.0
但し、K1=T1/√Nであり、T1は撚数(回/吋)、Nは英式綿番手を示す。
.親水性繊維がレーヨン、セルロースアセテート、ポリアミド、プロミックスから選択される少なくとも1種類である長短複合カバリング糸を用いて製織編されてなり、該長短複合カバリング糸を構成する最外層に位置する糸が下記式(5)で示される撚係数K2を有することを特徴とする上記第1又は第2に記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛。
(5)撚係数K2;3500≦K2≦25000
但し、K2=T2×(D×0.90)1/2であり、T2は撚数(回/m)、Dは長短複合カバリング糸の総繊度(デシテックス)を示す。
.上記第1〜第のいずれかに記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛を少なくとも一部に用いてなることを特徴とする繊維製品。
【0008】
以下、本発明を詳述する。
本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛は、高吸放湿性合成繊維を少なくとも一部に含んでなり、20℃、65%RH環境と30℃、90%RH環境下の吸湿量差(ΔW)は1.0%以上であることが好ましい。より好ましくは2.0%以上、更に好ましくは2.5%以上である。該吸湿量差(ΔW)が1.0%未満では吸湿性に乏しく、発汗に伴う水蒸気を衣服外に逃がすことが出来ないため、蒸れ感を感じるものになってしまい、着用快適性を満足させづらくなるため好ましくない。
【0009】
本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛の発汗時の衣服内湿度は70%RH以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは65%以下である。該衣服内湿度が70%RHを超えると高湿度環境では蒸れ感、不快感を感じるものになってしまうため好ましくない。通常、発汗時には多量の水蒸気成分を衣服と肌の間の空間に排出するが、該衣服内湿度を70%RH以下に保つことによって着用時の不快感を伴わない布帛とすることが可能となる。
【0010】
また本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛の滴下法による吸水速度は1秒以下であることが好ましい。吸水速度が1秒を超える長い時間を要するものとなれば、汗腺から排出された液状汗を瞬時に吸収することが出来ず、長時間肌面に残存し不快感を伴うものになってしまう他、水分が生地に拡散する拡散速度も小さいものになってしまうため、生地の乾燥速度が小さくなり好ましくないのである。
【0011】
本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛の少なくとも一部に含有される高吸放湿性合成繊維は、高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維であることが好ましい。該高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維の布帛全体に対する含有量(重量分率)については3重量%以上20重量%以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは5重量%以上15重量%以下である。該高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維の重量分率が3重量%未満であれば、高い吸放湿性能を付与することが困難で、着用時の蒸れ感を感じるものとなってしまうため好ましくない。また、20重量%を超過すると該高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維の染色性が乏しいため、黒や紺など濃色系色目では布帛の同色性が得にくく、白茶けた表面感となり、しかも強度の必ずしも十分でない該繊維を多用することにより、引裂強度その他強度面で実用に供するものにはなり難いため好ましくない。
【0012】
また、本発明の布帛を構成する糸条はポリエステル繊維を45重量%以上85重量%以下含有していることが好ましく、より好ましくは50重量%以上75重量%以下である。該ポリエステル繊維はステープルファイバー(短繊維)であってもフィラメント(長繊維)であってもよく、双方が含まれていても構わない。また、フィラメントの場合は仮撚加工糸など微細捲縮を有する糸条やシックアンドシン糸等であってもよい。更には、該ポリエステル繊維の熱収縮率についても一定のもの以外に収縮特性が異なる二種以上の繊維を組み合せて使用することも出来る。特に、熱伸長特性を有するポリエステルと熱収縮特性を有するポリエステルを組み合わせることによって膨らみ感に優れ、尚且つ架橋型アクリレート系繊維の被覆性を向上させた糸条とすることが可能となり好ましい。ポリエステル繊維含有量が45重量%未満の範囲ではW&W性や寸法安定性、強度的に優れた商品に仕上げることが出来にくく、85重量%を超過する範囲ではポリエステル繊維特有のヌメリ感を伴うものになる他、布帛の吸放湿性能が低いものに留まり、高吸放湿性、W&W性、強度的に優れた商品にはしづらいため好ましくない。
【0013】
また、該ポリエステル繊維、架橋型アクリレート系繊維以外の構成繊維として、獣毛、綿、ビスコースレーヨン、銅アンモニアレーヨン、ポリノジック、セルロースアセテート、ポリアミド、プロミックス等の繊維からなるステープルファイバー、フィラメントを使用することも好ましい。勿論二種類以上の組み合せも包括される。
【0014】
本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛のフラジール法による通気度は1.5cc/cm2・sec.以上であることが好ましい。勿論、通気度が1.5cc/cm2・sec.未満の値であっても吸放湿性繊維のベンチレーション機能により汗の水蒸気を衣服外に放出することが可能であるが、通気度が高い方がより換気効率が向上する。発汗時の着用快適性も考慮すると該通気度は1.5cc/cm2・sec.以上、より好ましくは3.0cc/cm2・sec.以上である。
【0015】
本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛が紡績糸及び/又は長短複合紡績糸を用いて製織編されている場合には、該紡績糸の単糸や長短複合紡績糸の単糸はT1を撚数(回/吋)、Nを英式綿番手とする時、T1/√Nで定義される撚係数K1が2.5以上、6.0以下で加撚されており、単糸、双糸、三子撚の何れか、若しくは組み合せで製織編されていることが望ましい。長短複合紡績糸を用いる場合には、長繊維が芯部を構成する一部に使用されていてもよいし、鞘部の一部又は全部に使用し、短繊維の素抜けを防止させる効果を狙うことも出来る。
【0016】
紡績糸は単糸のみならず、双糸或いは三子撚であってもよく、それらの組み合せで製織編されていてもよい。双子及び三子撚にする場合はK1で示した単糸の撚糸を施した後、該加撚された単糸を引き揃え、該撚糸方向の逆方向にK1より甘い撚りを掛けて使用することが望ましい。単糸の撚係数K1が2.5未満の場合には、紡績糸や長短複合紡績糸の構成繊維の素抜けやピリングが発生しやすくなる他、布帛の引裂強度も十分なものにはならないため好ましくない。また、染色性の悪い高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維の被覆性が不満足なものとなり、外観品位も損なわれ易いため好ましくない。また撚係数K1が6.0を超える範囲ではドレープ性のない硬い風合いのものとなってしまい好ましくない。
【0017】
本発明の布帛の生地目付としては100〜350g/m2の範囲であることが好ましく、より好ましくは100〜250g/m2の範囲が一般衣料用途として好適に使用される。該生地目付が350g/m2を超過する厚地(重衣料)では吸放湿性に乏しくなる他、ドレープ性の欠如、肩こりなど血行不良の要因ともなり好ましくない。また100g/m2未満の薄地では使用する糸条の繊度を小さく抑える必要がありコスト的に好ましくない。繊度を小さくするかわりに織編物の糸密度を粗くすることも可能であるがスリップや縫目滑脱の低下を誘発し好ましいものではない。
【0018】
本発明の布帛がカバリング糸の形態である長短複合糸条を用いて製織編されている場合、該カバリング糸の最外層を形成する糸の撚係数K2(=T2×(D×0.90)1/2)が3500以上、25000以下であることが好ましい(但し、T2は最外層を形成する糸の撚数(回/m)、Dは長短複合カバリング糸の総繊度(デシテックス)を示す。)撚係数K2が3500未満の場合、布帛は偏平な膨らみ感を感じないものに仕上がってしまうこと、ピリングが生じやすく消費性能的に満足なものにはならないことの他、高吸放湿性アクリレート系繊維の被覆性が悪く、染色生地は白茶けた外観を有するものになってしまうことから好ましくない。また、撚係数K2が25000を超過する超強撚の範囲では布帛のざらつき感のある粗硬な風合いとなってしまうため好ましくない。
【0019】
本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛は織編物で構成され、組織や製織編機構は特に限定されるものではない。用途に応じてパイル組織やその他二重組織とし、肌側への接触面積を大きくし吸放湿性を向上させることや嵩高性向上により含気量を大きくし、保温性、外気遮温性を保持することも好適である。製織編に使用する織機、編機についても特に限定されるものではなく公知技術で実施することが出来る。また針布、サンディング等の方法を用いて表面及び/又は肌面を起毛することも好ましく行うことができる。
【0020】
製織編された布帛は染色を施されるが、浸染、捺染以外に糸染め、チーズ染めによってマルチカラーミックス効果を付与することも出来る。浸染、捺染ともポリエステル繊維、その他天然繊維などを染色するため、多種染料使いによる多浴染めも好適に採用することが出来る。染色時は特に分散染料など余分な染料を排除するために十分な還元洗浄、湯洗いを実施することが染色堅牢度的に有効である。また綿やポリアミドなどを染色する場合には必要に応じてフィックス剤を処方することが染色堅牢度的に好ましいといえる。
【0021】
本発明において好ましく使用できる高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維は吸放湿性に優れるものの、染色性に乏しいため、該高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維がステープル、フィラメントの何れの形態であっても糸条の芯部を形成させることが望ましい。該架橋型アクリレート系繊維を積極的に芯部に導入する方法としては精紡交撚法やコアヤーン法の他、コンベンショナルなカバリング法等が挙げられる。何れの場合も該高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維が芯部を形成するようにスライバーやローバー、フィラメント等の供給率、組み合せ、導入糸道を適宜調整することが望ましく、特にカバリングの場合はダブルカバリングとし、上撚方向と下撚方向を逆方向に設定すると残留トルクを小さくすることが出来る。
【0022】
本発明の布帛を構成する繊維糸条に好適に含めて使用できる架橋型アクリレート系吸放湿発熱繊維について述べる。出発原料としてアクリロニトリルを40重量%以上、好ましくは50重量%以上含有するポリアクリロニトリルが好ましく、構成単位はアクリロニトリル単量体、若しくはアクリロニトリル単量体と他の単量体との共重合物の何れであってもよい。アクリロニトリル単量体以外の他の単量体としては例えばハロゲン化ビニル、ハロゲン化ビニリデン、アクリル酸エステル、メタリルスルホン酸、パラスチレンスルホン酸などのスルホン酸含有単量体およびその塩、メタアクリル酸、イタコン酸などのカルボン酸含有単量体およびその塩、アクリルイミド、スチレン、酢酸ビニルなどの単量体が例示されるが、アクリロニトリルと共重合可能な単量体であれば特に限定されるものではない。
【0023】
上記のアクリル系繊維に水加ヒドラジン、硫酸ヒドラジン、塩酸ヒドラジン、臭素酸ヒドラジン、ヒドラジンカーボネート等のヒドラジン化合物やエチレンジアミン、硫酸グアニジン、塩酸グアニジン、燐酸グアニジン、メラミンその他アミン基を複数個有する化合物を用いて分子間、分子内架橋を行う。この架橋反応はヒドラジン化合物が加水分解反応により架橋されずに残存した状態の二トリル基を実質的に消失させるとともに1.0〜4.5meq/gの塩型カルボキシル基と残部にアミド基を導入する方法であり、具体的にはアルカリ金属の水酸化物などの塩基性水溶液や硝酸、硫酸、塩酸などの強酸水溶液を含浸させるか、その水溶液中に原料繊維(アクリル系繊維)を浸漬した状態で加熱処理する方法、或いは上記架橋剤の導入と同時に加水分解を起こさせる方法によって架橋型アクリレート系繊維を得ることが例示される。
【0024】
上記架橋構造の定量法としては、ヒドラジン系化合物を架橋剤として導入した後の架橋型アクリレート系繊維の窒素含有量と原料繊維であるアクリル系繊維の窒素含有量との差、すなわちヒドラジン系化合物導入による窒素含有量増加を評価することが好ましい。ヒドラジン系化合物による架橋構造導入については高吸放湿性を付与するために該窒素含有量増加を1.0〜10.0重量%に調整することが望ましく、ヒドラジン系化合物濃度を5〜60重量%とし処理温度50〜120℃で処理する方法等が好適に用いられる。該窒素含有量増加が1.0重量%未満であれば架橋型アクリレート系繊維に対する架橋構造導入が少なすぎるため、強度的に満足し得るものになりにくいため好ましくない。また該窒素含有量増加が10.0重量%を超過する範囲では高い吸放湿性能を付与することが出来づらく好ましくない。
【0025】
繊維の断面形状に関しては特に限定を加えるものではなく、公知の断面の組み合せで用途や目的に応じて適宜選択することが出来る。特に吸水・吸汗性能を向上させる為に糸条長手方向にスリット(溝)を有する断面や異型度の大きい断面(マルチローバル断面を含む)等を採用すると、繊維表面の濡れ性が向上し、より好ましい。本発明布帛を構成する糸条繊度も特に限定されるものではないが、一般衣料用途を考慮すると大略50〜500デシテックス(英式綿番手で12〜120番)程度の範囲が好適に採用される。勿論、単繊維繊度についても特に限定を加えるものではない。
【0026】
次に、本発明の繊維製品について述べる。本発明の繊維製品は、本発明の吸放湿性に優れた布帛を少なくとも一部に用いてなることが必要である。本発明の繊維製品は吸湿、吸汗性に優れ、良好な速乾性を有する着用時に快適なものである。繊維製品は紳士用、婦人用のインナーやアウターの衣服、帽子、手袋、ソックスなどであり、特にスカート、パンツ、スラックス、ジャケットなどを代表例として挙げることができるが、これらに限定されるものではない。
【0027】
【実施例】
以下、実施例により本発明を詳細に説明する。尚、本発明は以下の実施例に何ら限定されるものではない。また本文中及び実施例中の特性値は以下の測定方法に基づき導き出されるものである。
(吸湿量:H)
下記関係式に従い、吸湿率Hを算出した。
H={(H1−H0)/H0}×100(%)
ここでH0は絶乾重量であり、サンプルを120℃で3時間乾燥した後の重量である。またH1は吸湿重量であり上記乾燥後に所定の温湿度雰囲気下に6時間以上放置して調湿した後の重量である。温湿度雰囲気としては衣服内気候に相当する30℃、90%RHと外気に相当する20℃、65%RHの2種類に設定した。
【0028】
(吸湿量差:ΔW)
20℃、65%RH環境下と30℃、90%RH環境下での吸湿量の差であり下記関係式に従い算出される。尚、実験回数5回の平均値を以ってその測定値とするものである。

Figure 0004228112
【0029】
(吸水性)
JIS L‐1096 6‐26‐1 A法(滴下法)に準じて測定した。
【0030】
(衣服内温湿度)
衣服内温湿度は特開平10−332683号公報に記載された衣服内気候シミュレーション装置を用いて計測した。尚、衣服内気候シミュレーション装置の概要及び計測条件は以下の通りである。
【0031】
発汗孔を有する基体及び産熱体からなる産熱発汗機構、発汗孔に水を供給するための送水機構、産熱体の温度を制御する産熱制御機構、温湿度センサーから構成される。基体は黄銅製で面積120cm2、発汗孔が6個付与されており、面状ヒーターよりなる産熱体により一定温度に制御される。送水機構にはチューブポンプを用いて一定水量を基体の発汗孔に送り出す。基体表面に厚み0.1mm〜0.6mmのポリエステルマルチフィラメント織物からなる模擬皮膚を貼り付けることによって発汗孔から吐出された水が基体表面全体に広がり、発汗状態を作り出す。
【0032】
本基体の周囲には高さ1cmの外枠が設けられており、試料(布帛)を基体より1cm離れた高さにセットすることができる。温湿センサーは基体と試料(布帛)の間の空間に設置され、基体が発汗状態の時の「基体と試料と外枠で囲まれた空間」の温湿度を測定し、衣服内温湿度とした。測定条件は20℃、65%RHの環境下にて基体温度37℃、発汗量245g/m2・hrで発汗時間を3分として実施した。
【0033】
(通気度)
JIS L-1096 A法(フラジール法)に準じ、試験片を通過する空気量(cc/cm2・sec.)を求めた。(少数点以下1桁まで)
実験回数5回の平均値を以ってその測定値とした。尚、測定は20±2℃、65±2%RHの恒温恒湿度環境で実施した。
【0034】
(実施例1)
高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維(東洋紡績製 N−38)38mmカットステープルと東洋紡績製ポリエステル2.2dtex38mmカットステープルを混合しアクリレート系繊維とポリエステル繊維の重量比率が40:60のロービング(粗糸)を作成し、英式綿番手で60番の混紡糸(Y)を得た。また綿と東洋紡績製ポリエステル0.8dtex38mmカットステープルを混合したロービング(粗糸)を作成し、図1に記載のZ1、Z2の双方に使用し精紡交撚し英式綿番手で30番の複合紡績糸を得た。
【0035】
仕上がった複合紡績糸の重量分率(混紡率)は架橋型アクリレート系繊維:ポリエステル繊維:綿がそれぞれ10:60:30、撚糸回数はZ撚19回/吋(K=3.47)、光学顕微鏡を用いて断面形態を観察するとアクリレート系繊維が芯部を構成し、ポリエステル繊維と綿が周囲をラッピングしている様子が観察された。
【0036】
得られた複合紡績糸を2本引き揃え、S撚方向に2回/吋の上撚を掛けて双糸とし、該複合紡績糸双糸を経糸、緯糸の双方に使用し織上密度が経51本/吋、緯50本/吋の平織(トロピカル規格)に製織した。製織された生機を公知の精練リラックス、プレセットを施した後、分散染料と反応染料を使用しポリエステルと綿を染色した。綿の染色堅牢度を向上させるためフィックス剤を処方しファイナルセットを施して仕上げた。織物の仕上げ密度は経58本/吋、緯56本/吋であった。表1に特性値を示す。仕上がった織物を用いて婦人物パンツを縫製した。適度な膨らみ感を有し吸放湿性に優れ、蒸れ感を生じさせない婦人物パンツに仕上がった。
【0037】
(実施例2)
高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維(東洋紡績製 N−38)38mmカットステープルと東洋紡績製ポリエステル1.1dtex38mmカットステープルを混合し架橋型アクリレート系繊維とポリエステル繊維の重量比率が40:60のロービング(粗糸)を作成し、英式綿番手で80番の混紡糸(Y)を得た。また綿と東洋紡績製ポリエステル0.6dtex38mmカットステープルを混合したロービング(粗糸)を作成し、図2に記載のZ1、Z2の双方に使用し精紡交撚し英式綿番手で40番の複合紡績糸を得た。
【0038】
仕上がった複合紡績糸の重量分率(混紡率)は架橋型アクリレート系繊維:ポリエステル繊維:綿がそれぞれ10:60:30、撚糸回数はZ撚21回/吋(3.32)、光学顕微鏡を用いて断面形態を観察するとアクリレート系繊維が芯部を構成し、ポリエステル繊維と綿が周囲をラッピングしている様子が観察された。
【0039】
得られた複合紡績糸を2本引き揃え、S撚方向に2回/吋の上撚を掛けて双糸とし、該複合紡績糸双糸を経糸、緯糸の双方に使用し織上密度が経54本/吋、緯53本/吋の平織(トロピカル規格)に製織した。製織された生機を公知の精練リラックス、プレセットを施した後、分散染料と反応染料を使用しポリエステルと綿を染色した。綿の染色堅牢度を向上させるためフィックス剤を処方しファイナルセットを施して仕上げた。織物の仕上げ密度は経61本/吋、緯59本/吋であった。表1に特性値を示す。仕上がった織物を用いてスカートを縫製した。適度な膨らみ感を有し吸放湿性に優れ、蒸れ感を生じさせない好適な製品に仕上がった。
【0040】
(実施例3)
高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維(東洋紡績製 N−38)38mmカットステープルと綿を混合しアクリレート系繊維と綿繊維の重量比率が50:50のロービング(粗糸)を作成し、英式綿番手で60番の混紡糸(Y)を得た。また熱伸長糸と熱収縮糸との混繊糸であるポリエステル異収縮混繊糸66デシテックス36フィラメントの甘撚糸(450回/m)を図4記載の装置のZ4にS撚、Z5にZ撚を装着して撚糸し、最外総糸撚数が600回/m、総繊度240デシテックス相当の撚糸条(カバリング糸)を得た。
【0041】
仕上がったカバリング糸の重量分率(混紡率)は架橋型アクリレート系繊維:ポリエステル繊維:綿がそれぞれ18:64:18であり、光学顕微鏡を用いて断面形態を観察すると架橋型アクリレート系繊維が芯部を構成し、ポリエステル繊維と綿が周囲をラッピングしている様子が観察された。
【0042】
得られたカバリングを経糸、緯糸の双方に使用し織上密度が経56本/吋、緯55本/吋の平織(トロピカル規格)に製織した。製織された生機を公知の精練リラックス、プレセットを施した後、分散染料と反応染料を使用しポリエステルと綿を染色した。綿の染色堅牢度を向上させるためフィックス剤を処方しファイナルセットを施して仕上げた。織物の仕上げ密度は経65本/吋、緯62本/吋であった。表1に特性値を示す。仕上がった織物を用いて婦人物パンツを縫製した。ソフトな触感、適度な膨らみ感を有し吸放湿性に優れ、蒸れ感を生じさせない好適な製品に仕上がった。
【0043】
(比較例1)
高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維(東洋紡績製 N−38)38mmカットステープルと東洋紡績製ポリエステル1.1dtex38mmカットステープルを混合し架橋型アクリレート系繊維とポリエステル繊維の重量比率が5:95のロービング(粗糸)を作成し、英式綿番手で80番の混紡糸(Y)を得た。また綿と東洋紡績製ポリエステル0.6dtex38mmカットステープルを混合したロービング(粗糸)を作成し、図2に記載のZ1、Z2の双方に使用し精紡交撚し英式綿番手で40番の複合紡績糸を得た。
【0044】
仕上がった複合紡績糸の重量分率(混紡率)は架橋型アクリレート系繊維:ポリエステル繊維:綿がそれぞれ2.5:80:17.5、撚糸回数はZ撚21回/吋(3.32)、光学顕微鏡を用いて断面形態を観察するとアクリレート系繊維が芯部を構成し、ポリエステル繊維と綿が周囲をラッピングしている様子が観察された。
【0045】
上記複合紡績糸を使用した他は実施例2同様の方法で染色加工布を得た。表1に特性値を示す。仕上がった織物は適度な膨らみ感を有し吸汗・吸湿性に富む素材となったが、発汗後の水分保持が高く水分を放出しないため発汗後はべとつき感を感じるものとなった。
【0046】
(比較例2)
高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維(東洋紡績製 N−38)38mmカットステープルと東洋紡績製ポリエステル1.1dtex38mmカットステープルを混合し架橋型アクリレート系繊維とポリエステル繊維の重量比率が20:80のロービング(粗糸)を作成し、英式綿番手で80番の混紡糸(Y)を得た。また綿と東洋紡績製ポリエステル0.6dtex38mmカットステープルを混合したロービング(粗糸)を作成し、図2に記載のZ1、Z2の双方に使用し精紡交撚し英式綿番手で40番の複合紡績糸を得た。
【0047】
仕上がった複合紡績糸の重量分率(混紡率)はアクリレート系繊維:ポリエステル繊維:綿がそれぞれ5:90:5、撚糸回数はZ撚21回/吋(3.32)、光学顕微鏡を用いて断面形態を観察すると架橋型アクリレート系繊維が芯部を構成し、ポリエステル繊維と綿が周囲をラッピングしている様子が観察された。
【0048】
上記複合紡績糸を使用した他は実施例2同様の方法で染色加工布を得た。表1に特性値を示す。仕上がった織物は適度な膨らみ感を有するが吸汗・吸湿性に乏しく着用時には蒸れ感、べとつき感を感じるものに仕上がり、本発明の目的とする着用快適性を与えることが出来なかった。
【0049】
(比較例3)
高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維(東洋紡績製 N−38)38mmカットステープルと東洋紡績製ポリエステル1.1dtex38mmカットステープルを混合しアクリレート系繊維とポリエステル繊維の重量比率が65:35のロービング(粗糸)を作成し、英式綿番手で80番の混紡糸(Y)を得た。また綿と東洋紡績製ポリエステル0.6dtex38mmカットステープルを混合したロービング(粗糸)を作成し、図2に記載のZ1、Z2の双方に使用し精紡交撚し英式綿番手で40番の複合紡績糸を得た。
【0050】
仕上がった複合紡績糸の重量分率(混紡率)は架橋型アクリレート系繊維:ポリエステル繊維:綿がそれぞれ40:40:20、撚糸回数はZ撚21回/吋(3.32)、光学顕微鏡を用いて断面形態を観察するとアクリレート系繊維が主に芯部を構成しているが一部のアクリレート系繊維が糸条表面に露出しておりポリエステル繊維と綿が周囲を完全にラッピングしている状態にはなっていなかった。
【0051】
上記複合紡績糸を使用した他は実施例2同様の方法で染色加工布を得た。表1に特性値を示す。仕上がった織物は架橋型アクリレート系繊維が織物表面に露出しており吸汗・吸湿機能は良好なものの、織物の引裂強度が低く留まり消費性能的に好ましいものにはなっていない他、白茶けた外観を呈するものとなっており品位的に好ましいものではなかった。
【0052】
【表1】
Figure 0004228112
【0053】
【発明の効果】
上述の如く本発明の布帛及び繊維製品は吸湿・吸汗性に優れ、更には良好な速乾性を有する快適な着用感を有するものである。また、高吸放湿性架橋型アクリレート系繊維を使用した場合に、効果的に糸条の芯部を形成させるように複合したので、布帛の表面品位を損ねることなく、高吸放湿性能を有する新規布帛及び繊維製品を得ることが可能となった。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】 精紡交撚方法の一例を示す模式図である。
【図2】 精紡交撚方法の他の一例を示す模式図である。
【図3】 精紡交撚方法の他の一例を示す模式図である。
【図4】 カバリング方法の一例を示す模式図である。
【図5】 カバリング方法の他の一例を示す模式図である。
【図6】 実施例1〜3の衣服内湿度変化を示すチャートである。
【図7】 比較例1〜3の衣服内湿度変化を示すチャートである。
【符号の説明】
A、A'…バックローラー
B、B'…ミドルローラー
C、C'…フロントローラー
D…糸条Yのフィードローラー
E…糸条収束ガイド
F…糸条Y'のフィードローラー
S1、S2…中空スピンドル
W…ワインダー(巻取装置)
Y、Y'…高吸放湿合成繊維の混紡糸又は高吸放湿合成繊維フィラメント
Z1、Z2…ポリエステルステープル、綿、レーヨン等の粗糸(ローバー)
Z4、Z5…ポリエステル、綿、レーヨン等の紡績糸若しくはフィラメント
Z3…複合糸条[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a moisture-absorbing / releasing fabric and a textile product excellent in wearing comfort.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, cellulosic fibers such as cotton, rayon, and cellulose acetate have been frequently used for clothes and other apparel and work clothes. The cellulosic fiber has excellent moisture absorption and sweat absorption performance and is excellent in wearing comfort, but performance aspects such as strength, W & W property, and dyeing fastness need sufficient care of consumers. In addition, there are various consumer complaints such as difficulty in drying due to good water retention. In addition, synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, and polyolefin are superior in strength, W & W, and dyeing fastness compared to natural fibers. It was a little stuffy and sticky.
[0003]
The synthetic fiber, especially polyester, is a low-priced material with excellent shape stability and quick-drying, but the product group consisting of 100% polyester is unfortunately consumed due to sluggish consumption and product price destruction. It can't be something that motivates consumers to purchase. Many surface modification materials for polyester have been put on the market and proposed, such as those with moisture absorption and sweat absorption by hydrophilization of the polyester surface, but are still recognized by consumers except for some sports clothing and work clothes. Currently, fabric structures such as cotton, natural fibers such as cotton, recycled fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, knitted fabrics, knitted yarns, blended fibers, blended fibers, etc., have been put on the market and proposed.
[0004]
When the weight of natural fiber, regenerated fiber, and semi-synthetic fiber is increased with respect to the fiber weight of the entire fabric structure, the texture, moisture absorption and sweat absorption properties are improved, but the consumption of the tear strength, dyeing fastness, W & W property, etc. of the fabric In terms of performance, problems are likely to occur, and in order to improve strength and other handling performance, synthetic fibers must be combined in a certain ratio or more. Furthermore, in order to improve the quick drying property and to give the performance contrary to the conventional material, it is desirable to mix, blend, spin, and knit the hydrophobic synthetic fiber, especially polyester fiber. Challenges arise.
[0005]
If the combination is mainly composed of hydrophobic synthetic fibers such as polyester fiber, it will be suitable in terms of strength, but it will make you feel stuffy, so hydrophilic synthetic fibers, especially acrylate synthetic fibers with high moisture absorption and release properties, etc. There are also products on the market that combine appropriate amounts. However, the acrylate fiber has a problem that the dyeing property is poor and the surface of the fabric is finished to be whitish, and the use is limited because it is difficult to obtain the same color.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to solve the conventional problems as described above, and to provide a fabric and a textile product that are excellent in moisture absorption and sweat absorption, and have excellent quick-drying properties and excellent wearing comfort. More specifically, it is excellent in the weather in the clothing and other wearing comforts while improving the fabric surface quality by using a yarn that is a composite of highly moisture-absorbing and releasing acrylate fibers so as to effectively form the core of the yarn. It is an object of the present invention to provide a fabric and a textile product.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
1. A fabric comprising a highly hygroscopic synthetic fiber, a polyester fiber and a hydrophilic fiber, wherein the super hygroscopic synthetic fiber and the polyester fiber are 3% by weight or more and 20% by weight or less of the fabric weight, respectively. 45% by weight or more and 85% by weight or less, the highly moisture-absorbing / releasing synthetic fiber is a cross-linked acrylate fiber, and the yarn constituting the fabric has a cross-linked acrylate fiber constituting a core part and a polyester fiber and a hydrophilic fiber. Fiber wraps around, And the fabric excellent in the moisture absorption / release property characterized by satisfying the requirements of following (1)-(3).
(1) The difference in moisture absorption (ΔW) between 20 ° C. and 65% RH environment and 30 ° C. and 90% RH environment is 1.0% or more.
(2) The humidity in the clothes when sweating is less than 70% RH
(3) Water absorption rate by the dropping method is 1 second or less
2 . The fabric weight is 100 to 350 g / m 2 The air permeability by the Frazier method is 1.5 cc / cm 2 ・ Sec. Above is the above 1 The fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release properties as described.
3 . The hydrophilic fiber is at least one type of fiber selected from animal hair, cotton, rayon, cellulose acetate, polynosic, polyamide, and promix fibers, and is a single unit of a composite spun yarn comprising the hydrophilic fiber. A single yarn of a yarn or a long / short composite spun yarn is twisted with a twisting coefficient K1 represented by the following formula (4), and is woven or knitted by any one or a combination of single yarn, twin yarn, triplet twist Characterized in that 1 or 2 The fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release property described in 1.
(4) 2.5 ≦ K1 ≦ 6.0
However, K1 = T1 / √N, T1 is the number of twists (times / 吋), and N is an English cotton count.
4 . A hydrophilic fiber is woven and knitted using a long and short composite covering yarn which is at least one selected from rayon, cellulose acetate, polyamide and promix, and a yarn located in the outermost layer constituting the long and short composite covering yarn is It has the twist coefficient K2 shown by following formula (5), The said 1st characterized by the above-mentioned. 1 or 2 The fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release property described in 1.
(5) Twist factor K2; 3500 ≦ K2 ≦ 25000
However, K2 = T2 × (D × 0.90) 1/2, T2 is the number of twists (times / m), and D is the total fineness (decitex) of the long and short composite covering yarn.
5 . 1st to 1st above 4 A textile product comprising at least a part of the fabric excellent in moisture absorption and desorption according to any one of the above.
[0008]
The present invention is described in detail below.
The fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release properties of the present invention comprises at least part of high moisture absorption / release synthetic fiber, and the moisture absorption difference (ΔW) between 20 ° C., 65% RH environment and 30 ° C., 90% RH environment. Is preferably 1.0% or more. More preferably, it is 2.0% or more, More preferably, it is 2.5% or more. If the difference in moisture absorption (ΔW) is less than 1.0%, the moisture absorption is poor and water vapor due to perspiration cannot be released outside the clothes, so that it will feel stuffy and satisfy the wearing comfort. Since it becomes difficult, it is not preferable.
[0009]
The moisture in the clothes when sweating the fabric excellent in moisture absorption and desorption of the present invention is preferably 70% RH or less, more preferably 65% or less. If the humidity in the clothes exceeds 70% RH, the feeling of stuffiness and discomfort may be felt in a high humidity environment. Usually, when sweating, a large amount of water vapor component is discharged to the space between the clothes and the skin. By keeping the humidity in the clothes at 70% RH or less, it becomes possible to make the cloth without discomfort during wearing. .
[0010]
Moreover, it is preferable that the water absorption speed | rate by the dripping method of the fabric excellent in the moisture absorption / release property of this invention is 1 second or less. If the water absorption speed takes a long time exceeding 1 second, the liquid sweat discharged from the sweat glands cannot be absorbed instantaneously, and it remains on the skin surface for a long time and causes discomfort. The diffusion rate of moisture diffusing into the dough becomes small, which is not preferable because the drying rate of the dough becomes small.
[0011]
The highly hygroscopic synthetic fiber contained in at least a part of the fabric excellent in hygroscopic property of the present invention is preferably a highly hygroscopic and cross-linked acrylate fiber. The content (weight fraction) of the highly moisture-releasing and cross-linking acrylate fiber to the entire fabric is preferably 3% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably 5% by weight to 15% by weight. . If the weight fraction of the highly moisture-absorbing / releasing cross-linked acrylate fiber is less than 3% by weight, it is difficult to impart high moisture-absorbing / releasing performance, and a feeling of stuffiness at the time of wearing will be felt. Absent. On the other hand, if the amount exceeds 20% by weight, the highly moisture-absorbing and cross-linking acrylate fiber has poor dyeability, so it is difficult to obtain the same color of the fabric in dark colors such as black and amber, and the surface becomes white-brown and strong. It is not preferable to use a large amount of the fiber, which is not necessarily sufficient, because it is difficult to be practically used in terms of tear strength and other strength.
[0012]
Moreover, it is preferable that the yarn which comprises the fabric of this invention contains 45 to 85 weight% of polyester fibers, More preferably, it is 50 to 75 weight%. The polyester fiber may be a staple fiber (short fiber) or a filament (long fiber), and both of them may be contained. In the case of a filament, it may be a yarn having a fine crimp such as false twisted yarn or a chic and thin yarn. Further, two or more kinds of fibers having different shrinkage characteristics can be used in combination other than a certain one with respect to the thermal shrinkage rate of the polyester fiber. In particular, it is preferable to combine a polyester having a heat extension property and a polyester having a heat shrink property, so that a yarn having excellent swelling feeling and having improved coverage of a cross-linked acrylate fiber can be obtained. When the polyester fiber content is less than 45% by weight, it is difficult to produce a product with excellent W & W properties, dimensional stability, and strength, and when it exceeds 85% by weight, the polyester fiber has a unique slime. In addition, it is not preferable because the fabric has only a low moisture absorption / release performance and is difficult to produce a product with high moisture absorption / release properties, W & W properties, and strength.
[0013]
In addition, staple fibers and filaments made of fibers such as animal hair, cotton, viscose rayon, copper ammonia rayon, polynosic, cellulose acetate, polyamide, and promix are used as constituent fibers other than the polyester fiber and the cross-linked acrylate fiber. It is also preferable to do. Of course, combinations of two or more types are also included.
[0014]
The air permeability according to the Frazier method of the fabric excellent in moisture absorption and desorption of the present invention is 1.5 cc / cm 2 ・ Sec. The above is preferable. Of course, the air permeability is 1.5cc / cm 2 ・ Sec. Even if it is less than the value, it is possible to release the water vapor of sweat from the clothes by the ventilation function of the hygroscopic fibers, but the ventilation efficiency is improved when the air permeability is higher. The air permeability is 1.5 cc / cm considering the wearing comfort when sweating. 2 ・ Sec. Or more, more preferably 3.0 cc / cm 2 ・ Sec. That's it.
[0015]
When the fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release properties of the present invention is woven and knitted using spun yarn and / or long / short composite spun yarn, the spun yarn or the long / short composite spun yarn is twisted by T1. Number (times / 吋), where N is the English cotton count, the twist coefficient K1 defined by T1 / √N is twisted at 2.5 or more and 6.0 or less, and single yarn, twin yarn It is desirable to be woven or knitted by any one or combination of triplets. When long and short composite spun yarn is used, the long fibers may be used in a part of the core part, or used for a part or all of the sheath part, and the effect of preventing the short fibers from being pulled out. You can also aim.
[0016]
The spun yarn may be not only a single yarn but also a twin yarn or a triple-twist, and may be woven or knitted by a combination thereof. In the case of twin and triplet twisting, after twisting the single yarn indicated by K1, the twisted single yarns are aligned and used with a twist that is sweeter than K1 in the opposite direction of the twisting direction. Is desirable. When the twist coefficient K1 of the single yarn is less than 2.5, the fibers constituting the spun yarn and the long and short composite spun yarn are likely to come off and pilling, and the tear strength of the fabric is not sufficient. It is not preferable. In addition, the coating properties of the highly moisture-absorbing / releasing crosslinked acrylate fiber having poor dyeability are unsatisfactory, and the appearance quality is easily impaired, which is not preferable. In addition, when the twist coefficient K1 exceeds 6.0, it is not preferable because it has a hard texture without drape.
[0017]
The fabric weight of the fabric of the present invention is 100 to 350 g / m. 2 The range is preferably 100 to 250 g / m. 2 This range is suitably used for general clothing applications. The fabric basis weight is 350 g / m 2 Thick ground (heavy clothing) exceeding the range is unfavorable due to poor moisture absorption and release as well as poor blood circulation such as lack of drape and stiff shoulders. 100g / m 2 If the thickness is less than 1, the fineness of the yarn to be used must be kept small, which is not preferable in terms of cost. It is possible to increase the yarn density of the knitted or knitted fabric instead of reducing the fineness, but this is not preferable because it induces a decrease in slip or slippage.
[0018]
When the fabric of the present invention is woven and knitted using long and short composite yarns in the form of covering yarn, the twist coefficient K2 of the yarn forming the outermost layer of the covering yarn (= T2 × (D × 0.90)) 1/2 ) Is preferably 3500 or more and 25000 or less (where T2 is the number of twists (times / m) of the yarn forming the outermost layer, and D is the total fineness (decitex) of the long and short composite covering yarn). If K2 is less than 3500, the fabric will be finished to a flat sensation of swell, and it will not be satisfactory in terms of consumption performance due to pilling, and it will also be coated with highly hygroscopic acrylate fiber This is not preferable because the dyed fabric has a white-brown appearance. Moreover, in the range of the super strong twist in which the twist coefficient K2 exceeds 25000, it becomes unfavorable because it becomes a rough and hard texture with a feeling of roughness of the fabric.
[0019]
The fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release properties of the present invention is composed of a woven or knitted fabric, and the structure and the weaving / knitting mechanism are not particularly limited. Depending on the application, a pile structure or other double structure is used to increase the air contact amount by increasing the contact area to the skin side, improving moisture absorption and release, and improving bulkiness, and retains heat insulation and outdoor air insulation. It is also suitable to do. The loom and knitting machine used for weaving and knitting are not particularly limited, and can be carried out by a known technique. Further, raising the surface and / or the skin surface by using a method such as needle cloth or sanding can be preferably performed.
[0020]
The weaved and knitted fabric is dyed, but in addition to dip dyeing and printing, yarn dyeing and cheese dyeing can also give a multi-color mix effect. Since both dyeing and printing dye polyester fibers and other natural fibers, multi-bath dyeing using various dyes can be suitably employed. When dyeing, it is effective in terms of color fastness to carry out sufficient reduction washing and hot water washing in order to eliminate extra dyes such as disperse dyes. In addition, when dyeing cotton, polyamide or the like, it can be said that it is preferable in terms of dyeing fastness to prescribe a fixing agent as necessary.
[0021]
The highly moisture-absorbing / releasing crosslinked acrylate fiber that can be preferably used in the present invention is excellent in moisture-absorbing / releasing properties, but has poor dyeability. Therefore, the highly moisture-absorbing / releasing crosslinked acrylate fiber is in any form of staple or filament. It is also desirable to form the core of the yarn. Examples of a method for positively introducing the crosslinked acrylate fiber into the core include a spinning and twisting method, a core yarn method, and a conventional covering method. In any case, it is desirable to appropriately adjust the supply rate, combination, and introduction yarn path of the sliver, rover, filament, etc. so that the highly moisture-absorbing / releasing crosslinked acrylate fiber forms a core, particularly in the case of covering. When double covering is used and the upper twist direction and the lower twist direction are set in opposite directions, the residual torque can be reduced.
[0022]
The cross-linked acrylate-based moisture-absorbing / releasing heat-generating fiber that can be suitably used in the fiber yarn constituting the fabric of the present invention will be described. The starting material is preferably polyacrylonitrile containing acrylonitrile in an amount of 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and the structural unit is either an acrylonitrile monomer or a copolymer of an acrylonitrile monomer and another monomer. There may be. Examples of monomers other than acrylonitrile monomers include vinyl halides, vinylidene halides, acrylic acid esters, sulfonic acid-containing monomers such as methallylsulfonic acid, parastyrenesulfonic acid, and salts thereof, and methacrylic acid. Examples thereof include carboxylic acid-containing monomers such as itaconic acid and their salts, monomers such as acrylimide, styrene, and vinyl acetate, but those that are copolymerizable with acrylonitrile are particularly limited. is not.
[0023]
Using the above acrylic fiber with hydrazine compounds such as hydrazine hydrate, hydrazine sulfate, hydrazine hydrochloride, hydrazine bromate, hydrazine carbonate, etc., ethylenediamine, guanidine sulfate, guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine phosphate, guanidine phosphate, melamine and other compounds having a plurality of amine groups. Intermolecular and intramolecular crosslinking is performed. This cross-linking reaction substantially eliminates the nitrile group remaining in the state where the hydrazine compound is not cross-linked by the hydrolysis reaction, and introduces 1.0 to 4.5 meq / g salt-type carboxyl group and an amide group in the remainder. Specifically, a basic aqueous solution such as an alkali metal hydroxide or a strong acid aqueous solution such as nitric acid, sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid is impregnated, or raw fiber (acrylic fiber) is immersed in the aqueous solution. It is exemplified that the crosslinked acrylate fiber is obtained by the method of heat treatment with the above-mentioned method or the method of causing hydrolysis simultaneously with the introduction of the crosslinking agent.
[0024]
As a method for quantifying the above-mentioned crosslinked structure, the difference between the nitrogen content of the crosslinked acrylate fiber after introduction of the hydrazine compound as a crosslinking agent and the nitrogen content of the acrylic fiber as the raw fiber, that is, introduction of the hydrazine compound It is preferable to evaluate the increase in nitrogen content due to. Regarding the introduction of a crosslinked structure by a hydrazine compound, it is desirable to adjust the nitrogen content increase to 1.0 to 10.0% by weight in order to impart high moisture absorption and desorption, and the hydrazine compound concentration is 5 to 60% by weight. A method of processing at a processing temperature of 50 to 120 ° C. is preferably used. If the increase in the nitrogen content is less than 1.0% by weight, the introduction of a crosslinked structure into the crosslinked acrylate fiber is too small, and it is difficult to achieve satisfactory strength. Further, it is not preferable because it is difficult to impart high moisture absorption / release performance in the range where the increase in nitrogen content exceeds 10.0% by weight.
[0025]
The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, and can be appropriately selected depending on the application and purpose by combining known cross-sections. In particular, adopting a cross-section with slits (grooves) in the longitudinal direction of the yarn or a cross-section with a large degree of irregularity (including multi-loval cross-section) to improve water absorption and sweat absorption performance improves the wettability of the fiber surface. preferable. Although the yarn fineness constituting the fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, a range of about 50 to 500 dtex (12 to 120 in English cotton count) is suitably employed in consideration of general clothing applications. . Of course, the single fiber fineness is not particularly limited.
[0026]
Next, the fiber product of the present invention will be described. The textile product of the present invention needs to be formed using at least a part of the fabric of the present invention having excellent moisture absorption / release properties. The textile product of the present invention is excellent in moisture absorption and sweat absorption and is comfortable when worn having good quick-drying properties. Textile products are men's and women's inner and outer garments, hats, gloves, socks, etc., and skirts, pants, slacks, jackets etc. can be mentioned as representative examples, but it is not limited to these Absent.
[0027]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples. The present invention is not limited to the following examples. The characteristic values in the text and in the examples are derived based on the following measurement methods.
(Moisture absorption: H)
The moisture absorption H was calculated according to the following relational expression.
H = {(H1−H0) / H0} × 100 (%)
Here, H0 is the absolute dry weight, and is the weight after the sample is dried at 120 ° C. for 3 hours. Further, H1 is a moisture absorption weight, and is a weight after conditioning after being dried and left in a predetermined temperature and humidity atmosphere for 6 hours or more. Two temperature and humidity atmospheres were set, 30 ° C. and 90% RH corresponding to the climate in clothes and 20 ° C. and 65% RH corresponding to the outside air.
[0028]
(Moisture absorption difference: ΔW)
It is the difference in moisture absorption between 20 ° C. and 65% RH environment and 30 ° C. and 90% RH environment, and is calculated according to the following relational expression. In addition, the measured value is obtained by taking an average value of five times of experiments.
Figure 0004228112
[0029]
(Water absorption)
Measured according to JIS L-1096 6-26-1 A method (drop method).
[0030]
(Inside clothing temperature and humidity)
The temperature and humidity in the garment was measured using an garment climate simulation apparatus described in JP-A-10-332683. The outline and measurement conditions of the clothing climate simulation device are as follows.
[0031]
It comprises a heat-producing sweating mechanism comprising a substrate having a sweating hole and a heat-producing body, a water supply mechanism for supplying water to the sweating hole, a heat-producing control mechanism for controlling the temperature of the heat-producing body, and a temperature / humidity sensor. The base is made of brass and has an area of 120cm 2 Six sweat holes are provided, and the sweating holes are controlled at a constant temperature by a heat-producing body composed of a planar heater. A tube pump is used for the water supply mechanism, and a constant amount of water is sent out to the sweat holes of the substrate. By attaching simulated skin made of polyester multifilament fabric having a thickness of 0.1 mm to 0.6 mm to the surface of the substrate, water discharged from the sweat holes spreads over the entire surface of the substrate and creates a sweating state.
[0032]
An outer frame having a height of 1 cm is provided around the substrate, and the sample (fabric) can be set at a height of 1 cm from the substrate. The temperature / humidity sensor is installed in the space between the substrate and the sample (fabric) and measures the temperature and humidity of the `` space surrounded by the substrate, sample and outer frame '' when the substrate is in a sweat state, did. The measurement conditions are 20 ° C. and 65% RH environment, the substrate temperature is 37 ° C., and the sweating amount is 245 g / m. 2 -The sweating time was 3 minutes in hr.
[0033]
(Air permeability)
According to JIS L-1096 A method (Fragile method), the amount of air passing through the test piece (cc / cm 2 ・ Sec. ) (Up to one decimal place)
The measured value was determined by taking an average value of five experiments. The measurement was performed in a constant temperature and humidity environment of 20 ± 2 ° C. and 65 ± 2% RH.
[0034]
Example 1
Highly moisture-absorbing and releasing cross-linked acrylate fiber (N-38 manufactured by Toyobo) 38mm cut staple and Toyobo polyester 2.2dtex 38mm cut staple were mixed and roving (coarse) of acrylate fiber and polyester fiber in a weight ratio of 40:60 Yarn) was prepared, and No. 60 blended yarn (Y) was obtained with an English cotton count. Also, a roving (coarse yarn) made by mixing cotton and Toyobo polyester 0.8 dtex 38 mm cut staples was prepared and used for both Z1 and Z2 shown in FIG. A composite spun yarn was obtained.
[0035]
The finished composite spun yarn has a weight fraction (mixing rate) of 10:60:30 for cross-linked acrylate fiber: polyester fiber: cotton respectively, and the number of twists is 19 times Z / twisted (K = 3.47), optical. When the cross-sectional form was observed using a microscope, it was observed that the acrylate fibers constituted the core and the polyester fibers and cotton were wrapped around.
[0036]
The resulting composite spun yarns are arranged together and twisted twice in the S twist direction / twisted over to make a double yarn. The composite spun yarn is used for both warp and weft, and the density on the weave is increased. It was woven into a plain weave (tropical standard) of 51 / 吋 and 50 weft / 吋. The weaving machine was subjected to known scouring relaxation and presetting, and then polyester and cotton were dyed using disperse dyes and reactive dyes. In order to improve the dyeing fastness of cotton, a fix agent was formulated and finished with a final set. The finished density of the woven fabric was 58 warps / 吋 and 56 wefts / 吋. Table 1 shows the characteristic values. Women's pants were sewn using the finished fabric. Women's pants with a moderate swell, excellent moisture absorption and release, and no stuffiness.
[0037]
(Example 2)
High moisture-absorbing and releasing cross-linked acrylate fiber (Toyobo N-38) 38 mm cut staple and Toyobo polyester 1.1 dtex 38 mm cut staple are mixed and roving with a weight ratio of cross-linked acrylate fiber and polyester fiber of 40:60 (Coarse yarn) was prepared, and an 80th blended yarn (Y) was obtained with an English cotton count. Also, a roving (coarse yarn) made by mixing cotton and Toyobo polyester 0.6 dtex 38 mm cut staples was prepared, used for both Z1 and Z2 shown in FIG. A composite spun yarn was obtained.
[0038]
The finished composite spun yarn has a weight fraction (mixing rate) of 10:60:30 for cross-linked acrylate fiber: polyester fiber: cotton, respectively, and the number of twists is Z twist 21 times / 吋 (3.32). When the cross-sectional form was observed, it was observed that the acrylate fibers constituted the core and the polyester fibers and cotton were wrapped around.
[0039]
The resulting composite spun yarns are arranged together and twisted twice in the S twist direction / twisted over to make a double yarn. The composite spun yarn is used for both warp and weft, and the density on the weave is increased. Weaved into a plain weave (tropical standard) of 54 / 本 and 53 weft / 吋. The weaving machine was subjected to known scouring relaxation and presetting, and then polyester and cotton were dyed using disperse dyes and reactive dyes. In order to improve the dyeing fastness of cotton, a fix agent was formulated and finished with a final set. The finished density of the woven fabric was 61 warps / 吋 and 59 wefts / 吋. Table 1 shows the characteristic values. A skirt was sewn using the finished fabric. It was finished in a suitable product that has a moderate swell feeling, excellent moisture absorption and desorption, and does not cause stuffiness.
[0040]
(Example 3)
Highly moisture-absorbing and releasing cross-linked acrylate fiber (N-38 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) 38 mm cut staple and cotton are mixed to create a roving (coarse yarn) with a weight ratio of acrylate fiber and cotton fiber of 50:50. A cotton yarn No. 60 blended yarn (Y) was obtained. In addition, a polyester twisted yarn (450 times / m) of a polyester different shrinkage mixed yarn 66 dtex 36 filament, which is a mixed yarn of heat stretched yarn and heat shrinkable yarn, is S twisted in Z4 and Z5 twisted in Z5 of the apparatus shown in FIG. And twisted to obtain a twisted yarn (covering yarn) having an outermost total yarn twist number of 600 times / m and a total fineness of 240 dtex.
[0041]
The weight ratio (mixing rate) of the finished covering yarn is 18:64:18 for cross-linked acrylate fiber: polyester fiber: cotton, respectively. When the cross-sectional shape is observed using an optical microscope, the cross-linked acrylate fiber is the core. It was observed that the polyester fiber and cotton wrapping around.
[0042]
The obtained covering was used for both warp and weft, and woven into a plain weave (tropical standard) with a warp density of warp 56 / 吋 and weft 55 / 吋. The weaving machine was subjected to known scouring relaxation and presetting, and then polyester and cotton were dyed using disperse dyes and reactive dyes. In order to improve the dyeing fastness of cotton, a fix agent was formulated and finished with a final set. The finished density of the woven fabric was 65 warps / 吋 and 62 wefts / 吋. Table 1 shows the characteristic values. Women's pants were sewn using the finished fabric. The finished product was suitable for soft touch, moderate swelling, excellent moisture absorption and release, and no stuffiness.
[0043]
(Comparative Example 1)
High moisture-absorbing and releasing cross-linked acrylate fiber (Toyobo N-38) 38 mm cut staple and Toyobo polyester 1.1 dtex 38 mm cut staple are mixed and roving with a weight ratio of cross-linked acrylate fiber and polyester fiber of 5:95 (Coarse yarn) was prepared, and an 80th blended yarn (Y) was obtained with an English cotton count. Also, a roving (coarse yarn) made by mixing cotton and Toyobo polyester 0.6 dtex 38 mm cut staples was prepared, used for both Z1 and Z2 shown in FIG. A composite spun yarn was obtained.
[0044]
The finished composite spun yarn has a weight fraction (mixing rate) of 2.5: 80: 17.5 for cross-linked acrylate fiber: polyester fiber: cotton, respectively, and the number of twists is Z twist 21 times / 吋 (3.32) When the cross-sectional form was observed using an optical microscope, it was observed that the acrylate fibers constituted the core, and the polyester fibers and cotton were wrapped around.
[0045]
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the composite spun yarn was used. Table 1 shows the characteristic values. The finished fabric became a material with a moderate swell feeling and high moisture absorption and moisture absorption. However, since the moisture retention after sweating was high and water was not released, it felt sticky after sweating.
[0046]
(Comparative Example 2)
High moisture absorption and release cross-linked acrylate fiber (Toyobo N-38) 38 mm cut staple and Toyobo polyester 1.1 dtex 38 mm cut staple are mixed, and the weight ratio of cross-linked acrylate fiber to polyester fiber is 20:80. (Coarse yarn) was prepared, and an 80th blended yarn (Y) was obtained with an English cotton count. Also, a roving (coarse yarn) made by mixing cotton and Toyobo polyester 0.6 dtex 38 mm cut staples was prepared, used for both Z1 and Z2 shown in FIG. A composite spun yarn was obtained.
[0047]
The finished composite spun yarn has a weight fraction (mixing rate) of acrylate fiber: polyester fiber: cotton of 5: 90: 5, respectively, and the number of twists is Z twist 21 times / 吋 (3.32), using an optical microscope. When the cross-sectional form was observed, it was observed that the cross-linked acrylate fiber constituted the core, and the polyester fiber and cotton were wrapped around.
[0048]
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the composite spun yarn was used. Table 1 shows the characteristic values. The finished woven fabric has an appropriate feeling of swelling, but is poor in sweat absorption and hygroscopicity, and has a feeling of stuffiness and stickiness at the time of wearing, and could not give the wearing comfort intended by the present invention.
[0049]
(Comparative Example 3)
Highly moisture-absorbing and releasing cross-linked acrylate fiber (N-38 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) 38 mm cut staple and Toyobo polyester 1.1 dtex 38 mm cut staple were mixed, and the weight ratio of acrylate fiber and polyester fiber was 65:35 roving (coarse Yarn) was prepared, and a No. 80 blended yarn (Y) was obtained with an English cotton count. Also, a roving (coarse yarn) made by mixing cotton and Toyobo polyester 0.6 dtex 38 mm cut staples was prepared, used for both Z1 and Z2 shown in FIG. A composite spun yarn was obtained.
[0050]
The finished composite spun yarn has a weight fraction (blending rate) of 40:40:20 for cross-linked acrylate fiber: polyester fiber: cotton, respectively, and the number of twists is Z twist 21 times / 3 (3.32). When the cross-sectional form is observed, the acrylate fibers mainly form the core, but some acrylate fibers are exposed on the surface of the yarn, and the polyester fibers and cotton are completely wrapped around It was not.
[0051]
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the composite spun yarn was used. Table 1 shows the characteristic values. In the finished fabric, the cross-linked acrylate fiber is exposed on the fabric surface and the sweat absorption and moisture absorption functions are good, but the fabric has low tear strength and is not preferable in terms of consumption performance. It was exhibited and was not preferable in terms of quality.
[0052]
[Table 1]
Figure 0004228112
[0053]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, the fabric and the textile product of the present invention are excellent in moisture absorption and sweat absorption, and have a comfortable wearing feeling with good quick drying. In addition, when using a highly moisture-absorbing / releasing cross-linked acrylate fiber, it is combined so as to effectively form the core of the yarn, so it has a highly moisture-absorbing / releasing performance without impairing the surface quality of the fabric. It became possible to obtain new fabrics and textile products.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a spinning and twisting method.
FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing another example of the fine spinning and twisting method.
FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing another example of the spinning and twisting method.
FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a covering method.
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram showing another example of a covering method.
FIG. 6 is a chart showing changes in humidity in clothes according to Examples 1 to 3.
7 is a chart showing a change in humidity in clothes of Comparative Examples 1 to 3. FIG.
[Explanation of symbols]
A, A '... Back roller
B, B '... Middle roller
C, C '... Front roller
D ... Yarn Y feed roller
E ... Yarn convergence guide
F ... Yarn Y 'feed roller
S1, S2 ... Hollow spindle
W ... Winder (winding device)
Y, Y '... high moisture absorption / release synthetic fiber blend yarn or high moisture absorption / release synthetic fiber filament
Z1, Z2 ... Polyester staple, cotton, rayon, etc.
Z4, Z5 ... spun yarn or filament of polyester, cotton, rayon, etc.
Z3 ... Composite yarn

Claims (5)

高吸放湿性合成繊維、ポリエステル繊維及び親水性繊維を含んで構成される布帛であって、該高吸放湿性合成繊維、該ポリエステル繊維が布帛重量のうち、それぞれ3重量%以上20重量%以下、45重量%以上85重量%以下を占めてなり、高吸放湿性合成繊維が架橋型アクリレート系繊維であり、布帛を構成する糸条は架橋アクリレート系繊維が芯部を構成しポリエステル繊維及び親水性繊維が周囲をラッピングしており、且つ下記の(1)〜(3)の要件を満足することを特徴とする吸放湿性に優れた布帛。
(1)20℃、65%RH環境と30℃、90%RH環境下の吸湿量差(ΔW)が1.0%以上
(2)発汗時の衣服内湿度が70%RH以下
(3)滴下法による吸水速度が1秒以下
A fabric comprising a highly hygroscopic synthetic fiber, a polyester fiber and a hydrophilic fiber, wherein the super hygroscopic synthetic fiber and the polyester fiber are 3% by weight or more and 20% by weight or less of the fabric weight, respectively. 45% by weight or more and 85% by weight or less, the highly moisture-absorbing / releasing synthetic fiber is a cross-linked acrylate fiber, and the yarn constituting the fabric has a cross-linked acrylate fiber constituting a core part and a polyester fiber and a hydrophilic fiber. A fabric excellent in moisture absorption and desorption characteristics, characterized in that the surroundings are wrapping the surrounding fibers and satisfy the following requirements (1) to (3).
(1) Moisture absorption difference (ΔW) between 20 ° C. and 65% RH environment and 30 ° C. and 90% RH environment is 1.0% or more. (2) Humidity in sweating is 70% RH or less. Water absorption rate by the method is less than 1 second
生地目付が100〜350g/m、フラジール法による通気度が1.5cc/cm・sec.以上である請求項1のいずれかに記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛。The fabric weight is 100 to 350 g / m 2 , and the air permeability by the Frazier method is 1.5 cc / cm 2 · sec. It is the above, The fabric excellent in the moisture absorption / release property in any one of Claim 1 . 親水性繊維が獣毛、綿、レーヨン、セルロースアセテート、ポリノジック、ポリアミド、プロミックスの各繊維から選択される少なくとも1種類の繊維であり、前記親水性繊維を含んで構成された複合紡績糸の単糸、若しくは長短複合紡績糸の単糸が下記式(4)で示される撚係数K1で加撚されており、単糸、双糸、三子撚の何れか、若しくは組み合せで製織編されてなることを特徴とする請求項1 又は2に記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛。
(4)2.5≦K1≦6.0
但し、K1=T1/√Nであり、T1は撚数(回/吋)、Nは英式綿番手を示す。
The hydrophilic fiber is at least one type of fiber selected from animal hair, cotton, rayon, cellulose acetate, polynosic, polyamide, and promix fibers, and is a single unit of a composite spun yarn comprising the hydrophilic fiber. A single yarn of a yarn or a long / short composite spun yarn is twisted with a twisting coefficient K1 represented by the following formula (4), and is woven or knitted by any one or a combination of single yarn, twin yarn, triplet twist The fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release properties according to claim 1 or 2 .
(4) 2.5 ≦ K1 ≦ 6.0
However, K1 = T1 / √N, T1 is the number of twists (times / 吋), and N is an English cotton count.
親水性繊維がレーヨン、セルロースアセテート、ポリアミド、プロミックスから選択される少なくとも1種類である長短複合カバリング糸を用いて製織編されてなり、該長短複合カバリング糸を構成する最外層に位置する糸が下記式(5)で示される撚係数K2を有することを特徴とする請求項1又は2に記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛。
(5)撚係数K2;3500≦K2≦25000
但し、K2=T2×(D×0.90)1/2であり、T2は撚数(回/m)、Dは長短複合カバリング糸の総繊度(デシテックス)を示す。
A hydrophilic fiber is woven and knitted using a long and short composite covering yarn which is at least one selected from rayon, cellulose acetate, polyamide and promix, and a yarn located in the outermost layer constituting the long and short composite covering yarn is The fabric excellent in moisture absorption / release properties according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the fabric has a twist coefficient K2 represented by the following formula (5).
(5) Twist factor K2; 3500 ≦ K2 ≦ 25000
However, K2 = T2 × (D × 0.90) 1/2, T2 is the number of twists (times / m), and D is the total fineness (decitex) of the long and short composite covering yarn.
請求項1〜のいずれかに記載の吸放湿性に優れた布帛を少なくとも一部に用いてなることを特徴とする繊維製品。A textile product comprising at least a part of the fabric excellent in moisture absorption and desorption according to any one of claims 1 to 4 .
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