JP4902246B2 - ネイルトリートメント化粧料 - Google Patents
ネイルトリートメント化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP4902246B2 JP4902246B2 JP2006101060A JP2006101060A JP4902246B2 JP 4902246 B2 JP4902246 B2 JP 4902246B2 JP 2006101060 A JP2006101060 A JP 2006101060A JP 2006101060 A JP2006101060 A JP 2006101060A JP 4902246 B2 JP4902246 B2 JP 4902246B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- nail
- acid
- nail treatment
- dimer
- ester
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Fee Related
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 35
- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 claims description 42
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 28
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- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 7
- -1 ester compound Chemical class 0.000 description 48
- 210000003298 dental enamel Anatomy 0.000 description 18
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 15
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- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 11
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 10
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 9
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 9
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 8
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- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 229940058015 1,3-butylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- WAYINTBTZWQNSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 11-methyldodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C WAYINTBTZWQNSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrochloric acid Chemical compound Cl VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 239000004909 Moisturizer Substances 0.000 description 2
- IMNFDUFMRHMDMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Heptane Chemical compound CCCCCCC IMNFDUFMRHMDMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
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- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- JAZBEHYOTPTENJ-JLNKQSITSA-N all-cis-5,8,11,14,17-icosapentaenoic acid Chemical compound CC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCC(O)=O JAZBEHYOTPTENJ-JLNKQSITSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-N arachidonic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCC(O)=O YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 2
- HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxybutanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019437 butane-1,3-diol Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium stearate Chemical compound [Mg+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
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Description
一方、ダイマー酸と二価以上のアルコールとのオリゴマーエステルを、一価のアルコール又は/及び一価のカルボン酸でエステル化したエステル、若しくは、ダイマージオールと二価以上のカルボン酸とのオリゴマーエステルを、一価のアルコール又は/及び一価のカルボン酸でエステル化したエステルに関する技術(例えば、特許文献5)がある。
R3OCO−R1−(−COO−R2−OCO−R1−)n−COOR3 ・・・(1)
(式中、R1はダイマー酸残基を、R2はダイマージオール残基を、R3はイソステアリルアルコール残基を示し、nは4〜6の数を示す。)
を配合することを特徴とするネイルトリートメント化粧料に関するものである。
本発明のネイルトリートメント化粧料の使用部位は、爪はもちろんのこと、爪の周りの指先部分をも含むものである。従って、以後単に「爪」と記載しても、爪とその周りの指先部分をも含む場合もある。
R3OCO−R1−(−COO−R2−OCO−R1−)n−COOR3 ・・・(1)
(式中、R1はダイマー酸残基を、R2はダイマージオール残基を、R3はイソステアリルアルコール残基を示し、nは4〜6の数を示す。)
ダイマージオールは、前記ダイマー酸及び/又はその低級アルコールエステルを触媒存在下で水素添加して、ダイマー酸のカルボン酸部分をアルコールとした炭素数36程度のジオールを主成分としたものである。市販品としては、例えばPRIPOL2033等(ユニケマ社製)が挙げられる。
イソステアリルアルコールは、ダイマー酸の副産物から得られた脂肪酸を還元して得られるものや、ガーベット法により得られるもの、アルドール縮合法により得られるもの等が挙げられるが、特に限定されずいずれのものを使用することもできる。市販品としては、例えばSpeziol C18 ISOC(コグニス社製)等が挙げられる。
成分(a)の製造において、中間体としてオリゴマーエステルを得る場合、中間体であるダイマー酸とダイマージオールとのオリゴマーエステルは、それぞれの仕込み比を変えることにより、得られるエステルの平均エステル化度や平均分子量を調整することができる。その仕込み比の範囲は、ダイマー酸1モル当量に対してダイマージオールを0.4〜0.9モル当量であることが好ましい。更に、イソステアリルアルコールでエステル化する場合、残存するカルボキシル基に対し0.8〜1.5モルであることが好ましい。
本発明に用いられる成分(b)のフェニルシリコーンは、ジメチルポリシロキサンのメチル基が一部、フェニル基に置換されたものをいう。分子量やフェニル基の数に特に限定されず、化粧料に用いられるものであれば、いずれのものも使用することができる。例えばINCI名(International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient labeling names)でフェニルメチコン、フェニルジメチコン、フェニルトリメチコン、ジフェニルジメチコン、ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコン、トリフェニルトリメチコン、トリメチルペンタフェニルトリシロキサン等が挙げられる。市販品としては、信越化学工業社製の「KF−53」、「KF−54」、「KF−56」のほか、東レ・ダウコーニング社製の「PH−1555」等が挙げられる。これら成分(b)のフェニルシリコーンは必要に応じて一種又は二種以上を用いることができる。
「ダイマー酸ダイマージオールオリゴマーエステルイソステアリルアルコールエステル化合物」
水素添加ダイマー酸(PRIPOL1006:ユニケマ社製)200g(0.348モル)及びダイマージオール(PRIPOL2033:ユニケマ社製)132g(0.243モル)を反応器に仕込み、窒素気流中210〜220℃に加熱し、生成する水を留去しながら5時間エステル化反応を行い、中間体であるダイマー酸ダイマージオールオリゴマーエステル(ダイマー酸:ダイマージオール=1:0.7)323gを得た。さらに、当該オリゴマーエステル307gとイソステアリルアルコール(Speziol C18 ISOC:コグニス社製)59g(0.217モル)を反応器に仕込み、窒素気流中210〜220℃に加熱し、生成する水を留去しながら10時間エステル化反応を行い、目的のエステル化合物351gを得た。得られたエステル化合物は、色相ガードナー2、酸価5.2、ケン化価111、粘度15,000mPa・s、屈折率1.48であった。
表1に示す組成および下記に示す製造方法にて水中油型ネイルクリームを調製した。得られたネイルクリームに関し、保湿感、密着性、べたつき感のなさ、とネイルトリートメント後に、ネイルエナメルを塗布した際の使用性について下記の方法により評価し、その結果をあわせて、表1に示した。
*2:KF−56(信越化学工業社製)
*3:CARBOPOL 1342(グッドリッチケミカル社製)
(製造方法)
A:成分(1)〜(11)を70℃で加熱溶解する。
B:成分(12)〜(16)を混合し、70℃に加熱後、Aを添加し、乳化する。
C:Bを室温まで冷却し、水中油型ネイルクリームを得た。
下記評価項目について各々下記方法により評価を行った。
各試料について専門パネル20名による使用テストを行った。パネル各人がイ〜ニの項目について下記絶対評価基準にて7段階に評価し評点を付け、各試料のパネル全員の評点合計から、その平均値を算出し、下記4段階判定基準により判定した。尚、ニのネイルエナメルの使用性については、各試料を使用直後、下記評価用ネイルエナメルを用いて評価した。
イ.保湿感
ロ.密着性
ハ.べたつき感のなさ
ニ.ネイルエナメルの使用性
(評点):(評価)
6:非常に良い
5:良い
4:やや良い
3:普通
2:やや悪い
1:悪い
0:非常に悪い
(判定基準)
(評点平均値) (判定)
5点を超える :非常に良好:◎
3点を超えて5点以下 :良好 :○
2点を超えて3点以下 :やや不良 :△
2点以下 :不良 :×
(成分) (%)
1.ニトロセルロース 注1 10
2.フタル酸系アルキッド樹脂 7
3.ショ糖酢酸イソ酪酸エステル 3
4.酢酸エチル 30
5.酢酸ブチル 残量
6.イソプロピルアルコール 7
7.有機変性粘土鉱物 注2 1.5
8.煙霧状無水ケイ酸 注3 0.2
9.クエン酸アセチルトリブチル 2
10酸化チタン 0.1
11.赤色202号 0.02
注1:硝化綿H1/4(旭化成工業(株)製)
注2:ベントン27(ELEMENTIS社製)
注3:AEROSIL 300(日本アエロジル社製)
(製造方法)A.(1)〜(9)を均一に混合し、これに成分(10)〜(11)を添加し均一に分散し、容器に充填して、評価用ネイルエナメルを得た。
一方、成分(a)のエステル化合物を使用しなかった比較例1は、保湿感や密着性に劣り、ネイルエナメルも均一に塗布することが困難であった。また、一方、成分(a)のエステル化合物の代わりにオレイルアルコールを用いた比較例2は密着性やべたつき感のなさに劣り、ネイルエナメルも均一に塗布することが困難であった。
(成分) (%)
(1)トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 20
(2)イソノナン酸イソトリデシル 残量
(3)エステル化合物 *1 10
(4)リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル 10
(5)トリイソステアリン酸グリセリル 10
(6)フェニルシリコーン *4 10
(7)防腐剤(パラオキシ安息香酸メチル) 適量
(8)ラズベリー抽出液 0.1
(9)香料 適量
*4:PH−1555(東レ・ダウコーニング社製)
(製造方法)
成分(1)〜(8)を70℃で加熱溶解後50℃にて、成分(9)を添加混合し油性ネイルトリートメントを得た。
実施例6は爪や指先の保湿感に優れ、密着性があり、べたつき感のない油性ネイルトリートメントであった。更に、ネイルトリートメント後、ネイルエナメルの使用性も良好であった。
(成分) (%)
(1)パルミチン酸デキストリン 5
(2)流動パラフィン 30
(3)2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル 10
(4)トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 残量
(5)エステル化合物 *1 10
(6)メチルポリシロキサン *5 0.1
(7)防腐剤(パラオキシ安息香酸エチル) 適量
(8)オリーブ油 適量
(9)シリル化処理無水ケイ酸 *6 3
(10)香料 適量
*5:KF−96(20cs)(信越化学工業社製)
*6:AEROSIL R972(日本アエロジル社製)
(製造方法)
A:成分(1)〜(5)を90℃で加熱溶解後する。
B:(7)〜(9)を成分Aに添加、分散する。
C:Bを脱気後、成分(10)を90℃にて混合し、油性ネイルトリートメントを得た。
実施例7は、爪や指先の保湿感に優れ、密着性があり、べたつき感のない油性ネイルトリートメントであった。更に、ネイルトリートメント後、ネイルエナメルの使用性も良好であった。
(成分) (%)
(1)ポリオキシアルキレン変性オルガノポリシロキサン *7 0.5
(2)架橋型メチルフェニルオルガノポリシロキサン *8 5
(3)デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 5
(4)トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 3
(5)エステル化合物 *1 5
(6)1,3−ブチレングリコール 5
(7)濃グリセリン 10
(8)エタノール 10
(9)塩化ナトリウム 0.5
(10)精製水 残量
(11)防腐剤(フェノキシエタノール) 適量
(12)香料 適量
*7:シリコン KF−6017(信越化学工業社製)
*8:シリコン KSG−18(信越化学工業社製)((ジメチコン/フェニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー15%フェニルトリメチコン溶液))
(製造方法)
A:成分(1)〜(5)を50℃で加熱溶解する。
B:成分(6)〜(12)を混合し、50℃にてAにBを添加分散し水中油型ネイルトリートメントを得た。
実施例8は、爪や指先の保湿感に優れ、密着性があり、べたつき感のない油中水型ネイルトリートメントであった。更に、ネイルトリートメント後、ネイルエナメルの使用性も良好であった。
Claims (2)
- 成分(a)下記一般式(1)に示すダイマー酸とダイマージオールとのオリゴマーエステルの両末端のカルボキシル基をイソステアリルアルコールでエステル化した化合物
R3OCO−R1−(−COO−R2−OCO−R1−)n−COOR3・・・(1)
(式中、R1はダイマー酸残基を、R2はダイマージオール残基を、R3はイソステアリルアルコール残基を示し、nは4〜6の数を示す。)1〜10質量%及び成分(b)フェニルシリコーン1〜10質量%を配合することを特徴とするネイルトリートメント化粧料。 - 前記ネイルトリートメント化粧料が水中油型であることを特徴とする請求項1記載のネイルトリートメント化粧料。
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