JPH0114697Y2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] <Industrial field of application> The present invention has the advantage that even though the fineness in the longitudinal direction of the yarns constituting the knitted fabric is equal and the loop length of the knitted fabric is the same, the visual appearance of the knitted fabric is The present invention relates to a knitted fabric exhibiting a novel slub-like appearance in which parts with different visual permeability and tactile unevenness are randomly distributed.

<Prior Art> Conventionally, knitted fabrics made of filament-processed thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarns have been widely used in the clothing field because they have excellent features such as bulkiness and stretchability. However, due to their uniformity, these textured yarns gave the knitted fabrics a faceless appearance, the texture was uniform, and the appearance was undeniably monotonous. For this reason, for example, there are knitted fabrics on the market that have a slub-like appearance using designed twisted yarns that have uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction of the threads, but these knitted fabrics have a considerably large ratio of thick to thin threads. Therefore, selection of knitting machine gauge, loop length setting, etc. are extremely difficult. For example, if the loop length is adjusted to the thickness of the thinner part of the yarn, the thicker part may easily break, commonly known as "spring flaws," or damage the hooks and latches of the knitting needles when the loop is formed. On the other hand, if the loop length is set to suit the thickness of the thick section of the yarn slab section, a dropped stitch phenomenon commonly known as "splash flaws" will occur when loops are formed in the thin section, which will reduce the tensile strength and friction of that section. There are problems such as a decrease in strength. Furthermore, since the threads have thick and thin threads, the unwinding from the yarn package cage and the tension during running on the thread path of the knitting machine become unstable, which exacerbates the above-mentioned drawbacks. Many problems remained.

<Purpose of the invention> The present invention was made in order to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the conventional technology.It is easy to design during knitting, and it can be used to create unevenness of various sizes and transparency on the surface of the knitted fabric. An object of the present invention is to provide a novel fancy-like knitted fabric in which slab portions are randomly distributed, and the degree of unevenness and transparency of the slab portions change depending on the degree of stretchability of the knitted fabric. It is something.

<Structure of the invention> That is, the present invention is characterized in that it is knitted into a single-knit structure using a partially differently crimped yarn having alternating high crimped parts and low crimped parts in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It is a fanci-like knitted fabric with a slub-like appearance.

Here, partially differently crimped yarn refers to a yarn that, when knitted into a plain knit, has a difference in crimp force that causes a difference in loop transparency and unevenness between the high crimp part and the low crimp part. Preferably, the potential elongation rate has a difference of 30% or more from the viewpoint of transparency and unevenness effect. However, the potential elongation rate can be determined by taking the high crimp area and the low crimp area, treating each separately with boiling water for 30 minutes, leaving it for 1 day at a temperature of 20°C and a relative humidity of 65%, and drying each sample. , when the length of each sample under a load of 2 mg/d is l ₀ and the length under a load of 100 mg/d is l ₁ , it is expressed as l ₁ - l ₀ / l ₀ × 100 (%). It is something.

To obtain the partially differently crimped yarn according to the present invention,
For example, after subjecting thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament yarn such as polyester or polyamide to false twisting using a normal one-stage heater, the yarn is brought into contact with a heating element intermittently at random intervals to increase the crimp force and elongation of the contact area. In a two-stage heater false twisting process that includes a relaxation heat treatment process, water or an aqueous liquid mainly composed of water is intermittently added to the false twisted yarn after the false twisting process. By attaching the yarn and then applying a relaxing heat treatment, only the liquid-applied part becomes a highly crimped part with a large crimp force and elongation rate that is almost the same as that of the processed yarn after false twisting, and it can be heat-set without any liquid being attached. However, since the frequency and length of the high crimp portion and low crimp portion can be varied over a wide range, The latter method is preferred.

Therefore, the important features of the present invention are the difference in the bulkiness of the yarn and the difference in the shape of the loop, which are caused by the difference in crimp force between the highly crimped part and the low crimped part of the partially differently crimped yarn. The purpose is to utilize Therefore, the partially differently crimped yarn is knitted into a single-ply knit structure. here,
The single knit structure is a structure that can be knitted by a so-called single-needle bed type knitting machine, which is equipped with only cylinder needles or dial needles, and is usually called single knit.It is generally based on a plain knit structure. It also includes various texture patterns incorporating tuck stitches, float stitches, etc. In these organizations,
No matter which loops are taken, there is no overlapping of the loops in the thickness direction of the knitted fabric, and each loop is formed individually. Therefore, when the above-mentioned partially differently crimped yarn is knitted into such a structure, a loop is formed. Differences occur in yarn thickness and cover factor (the ratio of the area occupied by one loop on the surface of the yarn itself to the area occupied on the surface of one loop), and there are noticeable differences in the permeability and surface unevenness of the knitted fabric. appears.

On the other hand, double knitted fabrics, which are generally referred to as double knits, have dial needles forming back side loops and cylinder needles forming front side loops, so the back side loops and front side loops overlap. Therefore, if the above-mentioned partially differently crimped yarn is knitted into such a structure, the permeability will not change even if the bulkiness or loop form of the yarn forming the loop changes due to the difference in the crimp force of the yarn. Effects such as differences and surface unevenness are less likely to appear.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the knitted fabric of the present invention will be described based on the drawings.

Fig. 1 shows an example of a partially differently crimped yarn used in the present invention, and 1 is a partially differently crimped yarn having high crimps 2 and low crimps 3 alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. .

FIG. 2 shows a knitted fabric of the present invention in which the partially differently crimped yarn 1 shown in FIG. 4 and a weak crimp loop 5 formed by a low crimp section 3. The strongly crimped loop 4 of the knitted fabric has a larger yarn bulkiness and a smaller surface area than the weakly crimped loop 5 due to its strong crimping force, and has a smaller surface area than the above-mentioned cover flap. The actors are big. That is, in the relaxed state where no tension is applied to the knitted fabric, as shown in FIG. Since the bulkiness of the yarn has also increased, the difference in cover factor between the two loops has become significantly large.
When tension is applied to the knitted fabric, that is, when it is being knitted on a knitting machine, as shown in FIG. There is almost no difference in the bulkiness of the yarns, and the cover factors are also the same.

Therefore, the loop length setting during knitting is the same for all loops, and even if there is a difference in crimp force in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, there is no difference in fineness. It has the advantage that planning and design such as selection of knitting machine gauge and loop length setting can be easily carried out without impeding knitting performance or product quality. The reason for the change from the state shown in FIG. 3b to the state shown in FIG. 3a is that there is a difference in latent crimp force and actual crimp force between the high crimp section 2 and the low crimp section 3 of the yarn. This is considered to be because the mechanically formed loop shape causes a difference in the rate at which the loop contracts and the degree to which the yarn becomes bulky when the external force applied to the loop is removed. Furthermore, in the dyeing process of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the difference in crimp development force due to heat treatment is taken into consideration, and the difference in the shrinkage rate of the loops and the degree of bulk of the yarn is expanded, giving an even more remarkable change. .

In this way, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the surface of the knitted fabric partially changes depending on the degree of loop contraction and yarn bulkiness. The portion will thicken in a convex manner and the transmittance will decrease.

The main knitted fabric can express any pattern by changing the length and arrangement of the high crimp part 2 and the low crimp part 3 of the partially differently crimped yarn 1.
Different combinations of parts such as high crimping parts 2 together, high crimping parts 2 and low crimping parts 3, and low crimping parts 3 can be made by aligning two or more sheets or twisting them together for knitting. As a result, more varied and diverse patterns can be created.

Furthermore, in the present invention, the partially differently crimped yarn 1 and other yarns are interwoven in pattern patterns, and the front and back sides are reversible by plating knitting, which is different from the conventional knitted fabric using design yarn. It is also possible to create a fancy-like knitted fabric that has an unobtainable elegant slub-like appearance.

<Examples> Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained using examples.

Example 1 Polyester filament yarn 75d/48f was false-twisted using a normal two-stage heater false-twisting machine, and then the false-twisted yarn was passed through a guide operated by an eccentric cam at the inlet of a second heater. The lower part of the yarn was intermittently brought into contact with the surface of a rotating roller immersed in water, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment using a second heater to produce a partially differently crimped yarn (Z twist). In addition, partially differently crimped yarn (S
Twisted) was made. By aligning these partially crimped yarns,
When knitted into a plating knit using a 28-gauge jersey knitting machine and subjected to the usual dyeing finishing process, a slub-like knitted fabric with distinct and randomly distributed parts with different transparency and uneven parts was obtained. It was done. In addition, in this knitted fabric, the false twisting directions of the two partially differently crimped yarns that make up the fabric are opposite to the S twist direction and the Z twist direction, so the winding forces of the yarns are canceled out, and the twisting of the non-diagonal stitches It was beautiful.

Example 2 Polyester filament yarn 100d/36f was false-twisted using a normal single-stage heater false-twisting machine, and the false-twisted yarn was eccentrically placed on a heater (surface temperature 225°C) installed between a delivery roller and a winding device. A partially differently crimped yarn (Z-twist) was created by making intermittent contact with a guide operated by a cam. Further, polyester filament yarns 75d/36f were made into false twisted yarns (S twist) using a normal two-stage heater false twisting machine. The above-mentioned partially different crimped yarn is used as the back yarn of the plating knitting, and the false twisted yarn is used as the front yarn, and knitted into the plating knit using a 24-gauge jersey knitting machine, and the resulting knitted fabric is subjected to the usual dyeing finishing process. As a result, a highly stretchable fanci-like knitted fabric with a slab-like pattern of varying degree of unevenness and transparency on the back side (front side in the product) was obtained.

<Effects of the invention> As mentioned above, the knitted fabric of the present invention is made by knitting a partially different crimped yarn having alternating high crimped parts and low crimped parts into a single knit structure, and the knitted fabric is knitted randomly in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Differences in bulkiness of the threads themselves arise from differences in distributed crimp force,
It skillfully utilizes the change in cover factor caused by the difference in the shape of the loops, and creates a new sense of unevenness and slub-like feel that cannot be obtained with conventional knitted fabrics using nep yarn or slub yarn. can be expressed. In addition, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the bulkiness of the yarn is large and the loop size is reduced in the parts where the crimping force of the partially differently crimped yarn is strong, so the cover factor becomes large and the permeability decreases. Although it has a small convex shape, when the knitted fabric is stretched, the loop expands, the bulkiness of the yarn forming the loop decreases, and the cover factor decreases. It is also possible to change the slab feel in various ways depending on the finishing set conditions. Moreover, during knitting, the cover factors of the high crimp part and the low crimp part of the partially differently crimped yarn are equal, so planning and design such as selecting the knitting machine gauge and setting the loop length are easy, and at the same time, during knitting. It does not impede the product quality of the composition.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a partially differently crimped yarn used in the present invention, Fig. 2 is a surface schematic diagram showing an example of the knitted fabric of the present invention, and Fig. 3a is a diagram of the knitted fabric shown in Fig. 2. FIG. 3b is an enlarged schematic diagram showing a part of the knitted fabric shown in FIG. 3a during knitting. 1... Partially differently crimped yarn, 2... Highly crimped part, 3...
Low crimp portion, 4... strong crimp loop, 5... weak crimp loop.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claim for Utility Model Registration] (1) The product is knitted into a single-knit structure using partially differently crimped yarn having alternating high crimped parts and low crimped parts in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. A fanci-like knitted fabric with a characteristic slub-like appearance. (2) The difference in potential elongation rate between high crimps and low crimps is 30
% or more, the fanci-like knitted fabric exhibiting a slub-like appearance according to claim 1 of the utility model registration claim.
However, the potential elongation rate can be determined by treating the sample with boiling water for 30 minutes and leaving it for one day at a temperature of 20°C and a relative humidity of 65%.
After drying, the length under a load of 2 mg/d is
When l ₁ is the length under a load of l ₀ and 100 mg/d, it is expressed as l ₁ −l ₀ /l ₀ ×100 (%). (3) Partially differently crimped yarn is a bulky processed yarn made of thermoplastic synthetic fibers that is intermittently coated with an aqueous liquid, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment to create highly crimped areas where the liquid is attached, and low crimps where the liquid does not adhere. A fanci-like knitted fabric exhibiting a slub-like appearance according to claim 1 or 2 of the utility model registration claim.