JPH01266204A - Underarm gusset of coat - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain an easily sewable underarm gusset followable to the motion of the arm in any direction, i.e. up and down or back and forth motions, without deteriorating the designed appearance of the cost, by forming side parts on both sides of a straight longitudinal seam symmetrically with respect to said seam. CONSTITUTION:The length of a straight longitudinal seam 2 is >=50% of that of the body arm hole. A virtual side line W is drawn at both ends of said seam in such a manner as to cross said seam 2 at a position corresponding to 30-49% of the length of said seam 2. The upper and the lower ends of said seam 2 are connected through the end of said virtual side line W and a circular curve. The objective underarm gusset is composed of the first part 11A and the second part 12A formed symmetrically with respect to said seam. The gusset is attached between the arm hole 41 of the front body 4 and the arm hole 51 of the sleeve 5 of the coat.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention is directed to the gussets of the armpits of jackets, specifically the lower armholes of the front and back body and the lower armholes of sleeves, which are inserted between both armholes. This relates to the underarm gusset that connects both armholes.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, the armpit gusset of a jacket has been formed into a straight diamond shape with relatively little difference between the vertical and horizontal center lines. The underarm gusset of this linear polygon is made of a single piece of cloth,
Has a suture line that connects the body and sleeves under the armpits 2
These armpit gussets are inserted and sewn into the armpit part approximately halfway between the front and back body and sleeves, or less, taking into account the vertical movement of the arm. It is formed so that Others, for example, Jikosho 58 = 4
No. 889 introduces an armpit gusset that takes into consideration the movement of the arm in the forward and upward directions, and has a fold line of a membrane structure along the armhole to be placed under the half of the back side of the sleeve.

These conventional armpit gussets are areas that do not affect the appearance of the garment, and the sleeves of the original body and sleeves of especially slim suits and dresses are hidden from the jacket as long as they do not disrupt the line. It is generally installed in the same position. Therefore, there are many armpit gussets that can withstand certain movements of the arm, but still have a cramped shape due to design constraints. Furthermore, it is difficult and requires skill to sew an armpit gusset formed by a straight contour line that does not follow the delicate curved line of the armhole at the center or rear part of the armpit.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

The present invention breaks away from the conventional design concept of the armpit gusset mentioned above, harmonizes as a part of the intended design with both slim jackets and jackets with a relaxed body width that has become popular in recent years, The purpose of the present invention is to provide an armpit gusset that is easy to adapt to directional arm movements and is easy to sew.

Furthermore, the present invention aims to solve the above-mentioned problem and provide an underarm gusset with good breathability.

[Means to solve the problem]

The underarm gusset of the jacket of the present invention to solve the above problems has a straight longitudinal suture line with a length equal to or more than 50% of the armhole of the body, and is located at a position of 30% to 49% of the length of the suture line. A first side portion and a second side portion are formed by connecting each end of an imaginary side line of a desired length orthogonal to the suture line with an arcuate curve to both ends of the suture line, and forming the suture line as an axis of symmetry. It is characterized by consisting of parts.

Further, the underarm gusset of the present invention is characterized in that it has at least two ventilation holes symmetrical with respect to the imaginary armpit line near the imaginary armpit line.

〔Example〕

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in further detail with reference to embodiments of the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 1 shows a first embodiment of the armpit gusset of a garment according to the present invention. In FIG. 1, the armpit gusset 10 is formed by a first side 11 and a second side 12 of the armpit gusset, which are formed on the left and right sides of the linear longitudinal suture line 2. . The length of the suture line 2 is approximately 50% or more, preferably 50% to 70%, of the total armhole of the garment body to be manufactured.

In conventional underarm gussets, which are attached to the front and back sides of the body around the armpit line, the gusset length in the corresponding area is usually 50%.
Before and after. In the present invention, by increasing the length of the suture line by 50% or more, the armpit gusset can be particularly adapted to the free and active back and forth movement of the arm.

The reason for providing the suture line 2 extending in the longitudinal direction, that is, in the direction of the armhole of the jacket, in the present invention is to solve the discomfort of the conventional armpit gusset, which has a suture line extending from the body to the sleeve.
This is also to give the suture line 2 a folding effect.

That is, when the suture line 2 of the present invention is overlapped and sewn to the front side of the fabric, when the arm is lowered, the suture line 2 tends to enter the body side, and the underarm gusset moves outward by the width thereof. It has the effect of preventing it from sticking out and spoiling the appearance of the jacket design.

The suture line 2 is formed by forming the first side part 11 and the second side part 12 from a single piece of cloth on the back side of the underarm gusset 10, and binding the both sides 11 and 12 at the longitudinal center position, and binding the joined part with a bin tuck. It can be formed by suturing. Alternatively, this suture line 2 is the first side 1 of the underarm gusset, as shown in FIG.
1 and the second side 12 are formed separately, each with a longitudinal suture line 2A.

It can also be formed by sewing 2B.

As is clear from FIG. 1, the outline lines 11C and 12C of the first side part 11 and the second side part 12, which are formed in substantially left and right symmetrical shapes with the suture line 2 as the center, have a gentle arc shape. It is made up of curves. In FIG. 1, the outline lines 11C and 12C are located at positions slightly lower than the center of the suture line 2.
An imaginary side line W of a certain length is set perpendicular to the imaginary side line W, and the ends of the imaginary side line W are connected to the upper and lower ends of the suture line 2 by an arcuate curve. Intersection point LW of virtual side line W with suture line 2
can be arbitrarily set at a position above the suture line 2 within a range of approximately 30% to 49% of the total length of the suture line 2. For example, if the suture line length is set to 48 cm and this ratio is set to 48%, the intersection LW of the virtual side line W on suture line 2 will be set at a position 23 cm from the lower end of suture line 2. . The virtual armpit line W here refers to the armpit line of the armpit gusset on the extension of the armpit seam line of the front and rear body of the garment to be manufactured or the extension of the yuzu seam line of the sleeve. The length of the virtual side line W can be set proportionally or independently to the length of the suture line. As mentioned above, for example, it is preferable to set the length of the virtual side line W in a range of 20% to 30% of the length of the suture line for reasons described later. More specifically, the length of the suture line can be set to 48 cm as in the previous example, and the length of the virtual side line W can be set to 12 cm.

The outline lines 11C and 12C are made by making the center of the virtual side line W set according to this standard orthogonal to the intersection LW, and connecting the left and right ends of the virtual side line W in FIG. 1 to the upper suture line 2, respectively. It can be formed by connecting one end of the suture line 2 and the other end of the suture line 2 below with an arcuate curve. The underarm gusset 10 of the present invention is completed by the areas defined by the outline lines 11c and 12C thus formed.

In the present invention, the intersection LW of the virtual side line W with the suture line 2 is not set as the center of the suture line, but is displaced by making the length of the underarm gusset inserted on the back side of the garment longer than on the front side. This is to make the forward movement of the arm more comfortable. The width of the armpit gusset 10 set by the virtual armpit line W length is made considerably smaller than the length of the armpit gusset 10 set by the suture line 2 to maintain aesthetic harmony with the design. It is for this purpose. Furthermore, the reason why the outline is made into an arcuate curve is to not damage the original design lines of the sleeves and body of the garment, and to facilitate sewing with the armholes of the sleeve and body of the garment. It is extremely difficult to sew together the complicated curves of the sleeves and armholes of clothing and the conventional polygonal armpit gussets that are constructed of straight lines. Since the armpit gusset 10 according to the present invention is constituted by a gentle long curve that follows the armhole of the garment, the difficulty of sewing is considerably eliminated. Furthermore, the outline 1 of this underarm gusset 10
The fact that 1C and 12C have a curved structure makes it easier to match the armholes of clothing, so there is no need to forcibly pull out the traditional straight polygonal engravings on the underarm gussets and sew them to the armholes. Therefore, the stretchability of the fabric is maintained even after it is sewn into the armhole of clothing, and the stretchability can be exhibited even when the arm moves in all directions.

As mentioned above, FIG. 2 has the same configuration as FIG. 1, but
The first side part 11 and the second side part 2 of the underarm gusset 10 are made separately. When the first side part and the second side part 2 are turned inside out and overlapped with each other and sewn together along the seam lines 2A and 2B, an underarm gusset 10 similar to that shown in FIG. 1 is formed.

If the first side part 1 and the second side part 2 are made in one piece as shown in FIG. 1, the trouble of cutting the seam lines 2A and 2B in FIG. 2 can be saved. However, the two-piece armpit gusset 10 shown in FIG. 2 allows the remaining fabric to be used effectively.

FIG. 3 shows a third embodiment of the underarm gusset 10 of a jacket according to the present invention. The underarm gusset 10 of the third embodiment has four ventilation holes 3a, 3.
The configuration is the same as that of the first embodiment except for the provision of the elements b, 3c, and 3d. One ventilation hole 3a, 3b is installed in each side of the back body 11B, 12B at a symmetrical position across the suture line 2, and a ventilation hole 3c is installed symmetrically between the ventilation holes 3a, 3b across the imaginary side line W.

3d is where the front body side parts 11A and 12A are installed.

The ventilation holes 3a, 3b, 3c, and 3d may be punched and threaded, or the surroundings of the holes may be fixed with eyelet fittings. Vent holes 3a, 3b, 3c.

3D works to remove dirt that tends to get trapped under the armpits.

FIG. 4 shows a state in which the underarm gusset 10 of FIG. 3 is interposed between the armhole 41 of the front body 4 and the armhole 51 of the sleeve 5 and sewn into a jumper. In this figure, the imaginary armpit line W in FIG. 3 is connected to the armpit line of the body and the yuzu line of the sleeve, and the front body side 11A of the armpit gusset 10 runs along the front body 4 of the jacket, and the front body side 12A is along sleeve 5 of the jacket.

In addition, in the above drawings and examples, the display and explanation of the seam allowance are omitted. A known seam allowance may be provided as desired.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The armpit gusset of the garment of the present invention with the above configuration can take advantage of the elasticity of the fabric in conjunction with the morphological characteristics of the armpit gusset without impairing the original design appearance of the garment.
This makes all movements of the arm comfortable and easy to sew.

Furthermore, the underarm gusset of the present invention has an excellent effect on breathability.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a first embodiment of the armpit gusset of a jacket according to the present invention, Fig. 2 is a plan view of a second embodiment of the armpit gusset of a jacket according to the invention, and Fig. 3 is a plan view of the armpit gusset of a jacket according to the invention. A plan view of the third embodiment of the lower gusset,
and FIG. 4 is a diagram showing a state in which the armpit gusset according to the present invention is attached to a jacket. 10... Armpit gusset, 11... First side part, 12
... Second side part, 2... Suture line, L... Suture line length, W... Virtual side line, 3a, 3b, 3c,
3d--Vent hole. Figure 1 Figure 2! s4 diagram

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Desired to have a linear longitudinal suture line with a length equivalent to 50% or more of the length of the armhole of the body, and to intersect perpendicularly to the suture line at a position of 30% to 49% of the length of the suture line. It is characterized by comprising a first side part and a second side part each of which connects each end of a long virtual side line to both ends of the suture line with an arcuate curve to form the suture line as an axis of symmetry. The underarm gusset of the jacket. 2. Claim 1 characterized in that at least two ventilation holes symmetrical with respect to the virtual side line are provided near the virtual side line.
Underarm gusset of jacket.