JPH0128151B2 - - Google Patents
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- JPH0128151B2 JPH0128151B2 JP55158108A JP15810880A JPH0128151B2 JP H0128151 B2 JPH0128151 B2 JP H0128151B2 JP 55158108 A JP55158108 A JP 55158108A JP 15810880 A JP15810880 A JP 15810880A JP H0128151 B2 JPH0128151 B2 JP H0128151B2
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Description
本発明は衣料特性に優れた人工皮革に関するも
のである。更に詳しくは、極細繊維と織物が相互
に三次元交絡し一体化した不織布帛構造物に弾性
重合体が含浸され、少なくとも一方の表面が毛羽
立てられている、柔軟でかつ機械強度と縫製性伸
長回復性などの衣料特性に優れたスエード調人工
皮革に関するものである。
従来、極細繊維を用いた不織布に弾性重合体が
充填された人工皮革は、特公昭49−48583、特公
昭51−6261などに見られる様に広く知られてい
る。しかしながらこれらの人工皮革はその基体が
多くは0.2デニール以下の極細繊維が立体的に交
絡した不織布であるので、基体としての機械的強
度が衣料として到底耐えられない程度に小さく、
そのため強度を持たせる為に通常は多量の弾性重
合体が不織布基体に含浸されている。その結果、
不織布が有する柔軟さ、ドレーブ性が失なわれ、
硬いパカパカした風合にしかならなかつた。更に
ドレーブ性のある柔軟な風合の人工皮革を得るに
は、弾性重合体の充填量を少なくしたり、充填し
た弾性重合体に積極的に発泡構造を付与したりす
ることが必要であるが、この様な場合、弾性重合
体による機械強度の補強効果が十分でなく、得ら
れる人工皮革は柔軟ではあるが、強伸度や引裂強
度が衣料として耐えられるレベルに到達せず、か
つ伸長回復性も劣り着用時のヒジ抜けなどの欠点
を有するものであつた。
本発明者らは、この様な極細繊維からなる不織
布を基体として弾性重合体がその組織間隙に充填
された人工皮革の柔軟性と衣料としての必要物性
とを同時に満足する人工皮革として、先に特開昭
52−107368に代表される改良された人工皮革を提
案した。また、特開昭53−122869号公報および特
開昭53−122872号にも提案がなされている。
この提案における改良された人工皮革の構成
は、極細繊維からなる交絡シートの内部層域もし
くは裏面に編織物類が存在し、極細繊維と編織物
類とは相互に交絡一体化されており、かつその交
絡シートの組織間隙にゴム状弾性重合体が充填さ
れているものである。この様な構成を有する人工
皮革は衣料としての機械特性、伸長特性は編織物
により付与されているので、充填された弾性重合
体は表面に毛羽立てられたうぶ毛(ナツプ)の把
持や、天然皮革特有の手持ち感を付与する為に存
在していれば良いのである。したがつて本発明者
らによる人工皮革においては、基体となる不織布
状布帛物のドレーブ性を損うことなく、衣料とし
ての機械強度を十分に充足することが可能であ
る。
本発明者らは、この様な人工皮革の衣料として
の適性を更に深く検討した結果、未だ多くの欠点
を有することを見い出した。例をあげると、縫製
時のいせこみ性が悪い欠点、ミシン縫いした時に
その縫目強度が不十分で着用時に縫目に所定以上
の応力がかかると縫目がずれるという欠点や、ま
た紳士服の袖部や脇の部分などの様に曲率の大き
い縫い合わせ部分に縫い目に沿つてデコボコが発
生し(以下縫目パツカリングという)仕立てた時
の見栄えが非常に悪くなる欠点などが見い出され
た。
本発明者らはこの様な欠点の原因の追求と改良
の検討を深く行なつた結果、縫目強度が小さい
点、いせこみ性が悪い点や縫目パツカリング現象
は、基体に用いられている編織物類の性状と深い
関係があることが判明し、これら編織物類の最適
設計の検討を更に行なつた結果ついに本発明に到
達し、極めて衣料特性に優れた人工皮革を提供す
るに到つたものである。
即ち、本発明は、「0.5デニール以下の極細繊維
が織物の少なくとも片面全体を覆つて織物と三次
元交絡している交絡体からなり、該交絡体の表面
に該極細繊維の毛羽が形成されており、かつ該交
絡体の組織間隙に弾性重合体が充填されているシ
ート状物であつて、該織物を構成する繊維が単糸
繊度4デニール以下で、100〜1500T/mの実撚
りが施こされたマルチフイラメントからなり、か
つシート状物の1Kg/cmの荷重下での伸度が経方
向3〜20%、緯方向5〜40%であることを特徴と
するスエード調人工皮革に関わるものである。
本発明による人工皮革の構成の要点の1つは基
体として用いる交絡体の内部もしくは裏面にある
織物に設計にある。極細繊維と織物の三次元交絡
体を基体とする人工皮革においては、人工皮革の
諸物性は、織物の物性に大きく依存するからであ
る。その意味で本発明品の詳細な説明を織物から
述べる。
本発明における織物は、単繊維繊度が4デニー
ル以下のマルチフイラメントが100〜1500T/m
の実撚りが施こされたものからなることが必須で
ある。ここで、実撚りとは、通常マルチフイラメ
ント糸の場合にはこのマルチフイラメントに施さ
れた撚りそれ自体を意味し、仮撚加工が施された
(従つて実質上撚りを有していない)マルチフイ
ラメント糸の場合には仮撚加工後に追撚を施すこ
とによつて与えられた実撚りを意味する。織物の
構成原糸の繊度は皮革の柔軟性と密接な関係があ
り、4デニールを越える単繊維から構成された織
物はそれ自身柔軟性に欠け、結果として得られる
人工皮革の風合は硬く芯のあるものになり本発明
の目的に沿わない。4デニール以下であると得ら
れる織物も柔軟性に富むものになり皮革も柔軟な
ものが得られる。
織物の構成原糸の形態は100〜1500T/mの実
撚りが施こされたマルチフイラメントであること
が必須である。更には600T/m〜1200T/mが
最も好ましい。構成原糸が1500T/m以上実撚り
を施こされたマルチフイラメントの場合、得られ
る人工皮革は縫目強度が極端に小さく実用に適さ
なく、100T/m未満の実撚りを施こされたマル
チフイラメントや無撚のマルチフイラメントの場
合、縫目強度は著しく向上するが、反面皮革の引
裂強度が極端に低下し、これもまた実用に適さな
い皮革にしかならないことがわかつた。本発明に
おいてはマルチフイラメントが特定の撚数の撚り
が施こされた原糸から構成された織物を適用する
ことによつてはじめて人工皮革の衣料特性のうち
重要な縫目強度、引裂強度を同時に満足すること
が見出されたのである。本発明の製品の内部構造
を観察すると撚数が1500T/m以上のマルチフイ
ラメントの場合、空隙部が小さく極細繊維と織物
のマルチフイラメントの間に交絡がほとんど見ら
れず、100T/m未満の実撚りが施こされたマル
チフイラメントの場合、空隙部が大きく、極細繊
維と織物のマルチフイラメントとは強固に交絡し
合つていることが見られ、このことが人工皮革の
縫目強度と引裂強度の大きさを規定していると思
われる。
本発明におけるマルチフイラメントは通常のも
ので良く、例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレート
(以下PETと略記する)の75d/36f,50d/24f,
30d/6fやナイロン6の70d/24f,20d/6fなどが
好ましく用いられる。最も好ましくは、これらの
原糸に仮撚が施こされたマルチフイラメントが適
用される。仮撚加工糸の場合、ストレツチバツク
性が一般に良好なので後に述べる皮革の伸度との
関係からも最も好適だからである。
実撚りを施こすのは、マルチフイラメントに通
常の撚糸機で加撚することにより容易に可能であ
る。撚糸方向はS,Zいずれでも良い。
織物の目付量は20〜100g/m2が好ましい。こ
の目付量は極細繊維の目付量との関係から規定さ
れる性質のものであり、余りに織物の目付量が大
きいと所定の厚みの製品を得る為には極細繊維の
目付量を減少させなければならず、この場合、得
られる製品に毛羽立てられたナツプの量が少なく
なり、皮革としていわゆるライテイングエフエク
トの小さい貧弱な見映えのものしか得られない。
逆に織物の目付量が小さいと織物が本来有すべき
機械的強度が低下し、得られる皮革は強度の不十
分なものになり不適である。この意味から織物の
目付量は20〜100g/m2が好ましい。
織物の組織は、平織、綾織、朱子織、摸沙織な
ど織物組織であれば本質的にどれも本発明品に適
用できるが、コスト面や工程面から平織が本発明
の目的に最も好ましい。平織の織密度は経緯同
数、異数いずれでも良いが、本発明の場合同数の
方が好ましく、密度は用いる原糸の繊度、集束数
により当然異なつてくるが、例えば75d/36f〜
30d/6fのPETの場合40〜70本/inが好ましい。
更にS撚り、Z撚りのマルチフイラメントを交織
しても良い。織物のマルチフイラメントの素材は
特に制限されるものではなく、PET、ナイロン
6、ナイロン66、ポリアクリロニトリルなどの合
成繊維、レーヨン、キユプラレーヨンなどの再生
繊維などが好ましく適用され、PETが特に好ま
しい。
次に本発明の人工皮革は皮革としての1Kg荷重
下での伸度が経方向3〜20%、緯方向5〜40%の
特定範囲にあることが極めて重要である。更には
経6〜15%、緯8〜25%が特に好ましい。
経方向が3%未満及び/もしくは緯方向が5%
未満であると、衣服を縫製する際にいせこみ性が
悪くなつたり、縫目パツカリングが発生するなど
衣料特性が極端に悪くなり仕立て映えのする衣服
が到底得られないことが明らかになつた。
経方向が20%以上及び/もしくは緯方向が40%
以上の伸度であると、いせこみ性や縫目パツカリ
ングなどの縫製特性は良好であるが、例えば、こ
の様な伸度を有した人工皮革で作つた衣服をハン
ガーに吊して放置しておくと伸びて戻らなかつた
り、着用時にヒジ部などが伸びて戻らず“抜け”
てしまうなどの現象が観察され、結局伸長回復性
の極めて悪いものしか得られないことがわかつ
た。
人工皮革がこの様な特定範囲の伸度を有してい
ることは更に風合も著しく柔軟になるという驚く
べき効果もあるということがわかつた。
本発明の人工皮革の場合、皮革の伸度は、交絡
体の伸度に依存し、交絡体の伸度は交絡体の構成
成分である織物の伸度に依存すること、即ち皮革
の伸度は織物の伸度に依存していることが検討の
結果明らかになつた。弾性重合体は実質的に皮革
の伸度を何ら規定しないという言い方もできる。
この事は本発明の人工皮革から弾性重合体をそ
の溶剤で抽出除去し、残つた交絡体の伸度を測定
し、更に交絡体から極細繊維を抜くなどして分離
し、最後に残つた織物の伸度を測定して、これら
の伸度とあらかじめ測定しておいた皮革の伸度と
を比較することにより容易にわかることである。
次に本発明品を構成する重要な要素の一つであ
る極細糸はその単糸繊維が0.5デニール以下であ
ることが必須である。極細糸の単糸繊度は本発明
品の表面性を決定する最大の因子であり、0.5デ
ニールより大きいとライテイングエフエクトが十
分に発現せず皮革としての商品価値がなくなり、
0.5デニール以下で始めて優美なライテイングエ
フエクトが得られる。極細糸の素材は織物に用い
る素材と同一であることが染色面などから好まし
いが、特に制限されるものではなく、PETなど
のポリエステル、ナイロン6、ナイロン66、ポリ
アクリロニトリルなどの合成繊維、レーヨン、キ
ユプラレーヨンなどの再生繊維などいずれを用い
ても本発明の効果を損なうものではない。
極細糸は長繊維、短繊維いずれの形状をとつて
も良い。但し該織物との交絡一体化という点から
短繊維状が好ましい。また極細糸は単繊維にバラ
バラに分離していても、繊維束状になつていても
単繊維と大小さまざまな繊維束の混合された状態
のいずれであつても良いが、表面の緻密性に優れ
たライテイングエフエクトが発現するには単繊維
状であることが好ましい。
更に極細糸は極細糸相互及び織物と十分に相互
に三次元交絡し一体化していることが本発明の目
的にとつて極めて大切である。本発明における交
絡は主として極細繊維が織物の織目間隙に入りこ
むことでなされているが、同時に極細繊維が織物
を構成するマルチフイラメントのフイラメント間
隙にも入り込んで行なわれている。この場合、本
発明においては、極細繊維がマルチフイラメント
の間隙に入り込んで交絡している度合が極めて重
要である。即ちその度合が非常に低く、その様な
交絡が殆んど見られない様な場合には、先に述べ
た様に縫目強度の低下が起こり好ましくない。ま
た裁断面からの織物のホツレの発生が起こること
もある。逆に過度の交絡はさきに述べた様に引裂
強度の低下につながる。したがつてこのマルチフ
イラメント間隙に入り込んで起こる交絡の度合の
最適化は本発明において最も重要な要素であり、
この交絡の程度はマルチフイラメントの撚糸数に
よつてコントロールされている。
また極細繊維間の交絡は、表面のナツプの状態
にとつて重要である。極細繊維相互の交絡が不十
分であるとナツプは長く、密度が小さく、良好な
ライテイングエフエクトが得られない。
この様に、極細繊維と織物を構成するマルチフ
イラメントとの間の交絡及極細繊維相互の交絡は
物性面及び表面性から重要である。
本発明品を構成する弾性重合体は、ナツプの根
元把持と天然皮革特有の腰のある柔軟性を付与す
る為に重要である。
前述した様に本発明の人工皮革の機械強度は、
交絡体中の織物に大きく依存するので、皮革の機
械強度を付与する為に大量に弾性重合体を充填
し、その結果皮革の風合を硬くさせる欠点のない
のが本発明の優れた特徴の1つである。充填量と
しては、製品中の繊維成分(極細繊維+織物繊
維)に対して10〜100重量%で十分であり、更に
好ましくは40〜60重量%で良い。
弾性重合体の種類には特に制限はないが、ポリ
ウレタン類が本発明品を好ましい柔軟性にする為
に特に好ましい。ポリウレタンの組成としては、
ポリオール成分としてポリエチレンアジペートグ
リコール、ポリブチレンアジペートグリコールな
どのポリエステルジオール類、ポリエチレングリ
コール、ポリテトラメチレングリコールなどのポ
リエーテルグリコール類;イソシアネート成分と
してはジフエニルメタン−4,4′−ジイソシアネ
ートなどの芳香族ジイソシアネート、ジシクロヘ
キシルメタン−4,4′−ジイソシアネートなどの
脂環式ジイソシアネート、ヘキサメチレンジイソ
シアネートなどの脂肪族ジイソシアネート:鎖伸
長剤として、エチレングリコールなどのグリコー
ル類、エチレンジアミン、4,4′−ジアミノジフ
エニルメタンなどのジアミン類、などを適切に組
み合わせて用いることができる。
次に本発明の人工皮革の製造法について述べ
る。
先ず出発原料として織物に伸度を付与する方法
について述べる。皮革に本発明の特定の範囲の伸
度を持たせる為には、皮革中の織物の伸度が本発
明の範囲にほぼ等しい様にすれば良い。但し、本
発明の皮革を得る為の原料としての織物自体の伸
度は必らずしも、皮革中の織物の伸度とは一致し
ないことに注意する必要がある。何故ならば、織
物自体を極細繊維シートに封入してから皮革にす
る迄の加工工程、例えば弾性重合体の含浸工程、
染色工程などで、経方向、緯方向、特に経方向の
張力が織物にかかることが実際には多く、織物自
体で初期に有していた伸度が下がることが多いか
らである。したがつて皮革の伸度即ち皮革中の織
物の伸度を本発明の経3〜20%、緯5〜40%にす
る為には、皮革に加工する前の織物自体の伸度を
前記数値より若干大きめに設計しておくことが好
ましい。大きめにする程度は皮革の加工工程の張
力を十分に考慮してから決めるのが良いが、経5
〜10%、緯1〜10%程度が好ましい。もつとも張
力がかからない様な加工工程を採る場合には、原
料の織物自体の伸度がほぼ完全に皮革中の織物即
ち皮革の伸度に一致するのだから、この様な場合
には、初期の織物自体の伸度を本発明の皮革の伸
度の範囲内に設定しておけば良いことは言うまで
もない。
出発原料の織物自体に前記した様に皮革中の織
物と等しいかもしくは大きい伸度を付与するには
種々の方法が考えられる。好ましい態様として
は、追撚された仮撚加工糸をマルチフイラメント
として用い、該追撚された仮撚加工糸の熱水中で
の収縮による伸びの発現を利用する方法が用いら
れる。例えば、該追撚された仮撚加工糸からなる
織物をあらかじめ熱水処理により処理させたのち
に所定の寸法に伸長し熱セツトすることによつ
て、織物自体に伸度を付与する方法が好適に用い
られ、該織物の伸度は熱水収縮の温度、時間、揉
布の程度、または熱セツト時の経緯の伸長率、セ
ツト温度などの組み合わせにより容易にコントロ
ールできる。この態様において、熱水収縮性を付
与するための仮撚加工条件には特に制限はなく、
仮撚回数は糸の種類、デニール等によつて変わ
り、通常1500〜4000T/mの範囲で適宜選択さ
れ、また仮撚の方向はS加撚・Z解撚およびZ加
撚・S解撚のいずれでもよい。ただ、仮撚加工後
にさらに撚りを掛ける追撚の数は100〜1500T/
mでなければならない。
次に極細繊維からなるシートを作る。極細糸を
得る方法としては、従来公知の方法を適用するこ
とができる。例えば、海島繊維法、混合繊維法な
どの潜在極細糸法や特願昭54−40519に代表され
る直接紡糸法、更にはメルトブローイング法など
いずれも本発明の極細糸を得る方法として用いる
ことができる。これをシート化するには、極細繊
維をカツトしもしくはせずにカードクロスレイヤ
ーにより不織ウエツグにする方法、或いは抄造法
による方法、更にはメルトブローイングにより直
接ウエブ化する方法などにより容易に得られる。
シートの均一性、及び柱状流法との組み合わせか
らは抄造法による極細繊維シートが好ましく用い
られる。織物はこの様にして得られた極細繊維シ
ートの間に挿入したり、或いはシートの裏面に貼
りつけたりして続く交絡処理を受ける。この基体
の中には、製品となる極細繊維と溶剤溶解性が異
なり、工程中で溶剤により抽出除去され、それに
より風合が調節される様な繊維が混合されている
ことも好ましいことである。この種の繊維も製品
になる極細繊維と溶剤溶解性の異なるものであれ
ば何でも良いが、製品になる極細繊維がPETの
場合は熱水可溶性のポリビニルアルコール繊維な
どが好ましい。
本発明の交絡状態は、極細繊維及び織物の性状
に応じて交絡の方法と条件を調整することにより
得られる。極細繊維として抄造された3〜10mm程
度の短繊維を用い、織物として追撚数100〜
1500T/mの仮撚加工糸による目付量20〜100
g/m2程度の平織物を用いる場合には、交絡手段
としては、細孔ノズルより噴出する柱状水流によ
る交絡が好ましい。例えば、その条件としては、
ノズル経0.05〜0.5mmの多数の細孔ノズルから噴
射圧力1〜30Kg/cm2の柱状水流を前記シートの表
面、裏面に全面隅なく当てることが好ましい。交
絡手段としては、この他、従来人工皮革の不織布
基体の交絡手段として広く用いられているニード
ルパンチ法なども用いることができる。
次に交絡体の毛羽立てを行なう。毛羽立てする
手段としては従来公知の手段、例えばエメリーペ
ーパー、針布、ブラシなどが適用できるが、エメ
リーペーパーによる毛羽立てがナツプの品位から
みて好適である。毛羽立ては弾性重合体の含浸前
または含浸後に行なうことができる。弾性重合体
の含浸前に毛羽立てを行う場合には、充填前に起
毛された毛羽を弾性重合体からブロツクする為
に、交絡体の表面の毛羽の層を弾性重合体の溶剤
に不溶の糊剤、例えばカルボキシルメチルセルロ
ース(CMC)、ポリビニルアルコール(PVA)、
或いはCMCとPVAのブレンド糊剤などでコーテ
イングするのも好ましい方法である。
更に交絡体の表面に糊剤をコーテイングする前
に、毛羽立て前或いは毛羽立て後に交絡体に糊剤
を含浸するのも好ましい。この操作を施こすこと
により、本発明の人工皮革の加工工程中、特に弾
性重合体の含浸工程における交絡体の取り扱いが
容易になることや、弾性重合体を含浸後、該糊剤
を抽出除去することにより本発明の人工皮革が良
好な柔軟性を有することなどの利点がある。糊剤
は加工性の面などから水溶性糊剤が好ましく、
PVAやCMCなどが好適である。
交絡体に重合体を充填させる方法としては、従
来公知の乾式凝固法や湿式凝固法で弾性重合体を
含浸凝固させる方法があるが、腰のある柔軟性を
発現させる為には、弾性重合体の溶液を基体に付
着させたのち、水或いは水と弾性重合体の溶剤と
の混合溶剤中に凝固折出させる湿式凝固法が充填
された弾性重合体に適度な微多孔構造を付与する
ので特に好ましい。弾性重合体の好適な例として
ポリウレタンを用いる時には、ジメチルホルムア
ミド(DMF)を好ましい溶媒として用い、湿式
凝固の際の凝固浴には水、或いは水−DMF系溶
剤が好ましく用いられる。ポリウレタン中に顔
料、染料などの着色剤を添加しておくのも良い。
含浸凝固が完了すると、前記した様な糊剤、即
ち交絡体に含浸した糊剤、交絡体の表面にコート
した糊剤や、極細繊維シート中に混合した本発明
品を構成する極細繊維と溶剤溶解性の異なる繊維
などがある場合には、これを抽出除去する。
最後に、これを染色し、好ましくは形成したナ
ツプをブラシなどで整毛すると、良好なライテイ
ングエフエクトを有し、衣料特性に優れた本発明
の人工皮革が得られる。
以下実施例により本発明を具体的に説明する。
なお、以下の実施例において用いる測定法は下記
の様な方法によつた。
(1) 伸度:1Kg/cm荷重下の伸長率をJISL−
1079Cに準拠して測定した値。
(2) 柔軟性:JISL−1079カンチレバー法での値。
(3) 縫目強度:JISL−1093に準拠。
乾条件、湿条件(試験片を30分間水に浸漬)に
て測定した。30Kg/in以上を合格とした。
(4) 引裂強度:JIS1079Cペンジユラム法に準拠。
1.2Kg以上を合格とした。
(5) 縫製性:縫目パツカリング性といせこみ性で
評価した。
縫目パツカリング性については、紳士服の
脇の線に合致する様に巾10cm、長さ30cmの試
験片2枚を曲率0.04cm-1の曲線になる様に縫
い合わせ、視覚判定でもつて第1表の評価基
準で評価した。
いせこみ性については実際にサンプルを縫
製工程に適用して第1表の評価基準で評価し
た。
The present invention relates to artificial leather with excellent clothing properties. More specifically, a non-woven fabric structure in which ultrafine fibers and fabrics are three-dimensionally intertwined and integrated is impregnated with an elastic polymer, and at least one surface is fluffed to provide flexibility, mechanical strength, and sewability. This invention relates to suede-like artificial leather that has excellent clothing properties such as recovery properties. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Conventionally, artificial leather in which a nonwoven fabric using ultrafine fibers is filled with an elastic polymer has been widely known, as seen in Japanese Patent Publications No. 49-48583 and No. 51-6261. However, the base material of these artificial leathers is mostly non-woven fabric in which ultrafine fibers of 0.2 denier or less are intertwined in a three-dimensional manner, so the mechanical strength of the base material is so low that it cannot be used as clothing.
Therefore, in order to provide strength, a large amount of elastic polymer is usually impregnated into the nonwoven fabric substrate. the result,
The flexibility and drape properties of nonwoven fabrics are lost,
It only had a hard, crackly texture. Furthermore, in order to obtain artificial leather with drape properties and a soft texture, it is necessary to reduce the amount of elastomeric polymer filled or actively impart a foam structure to the filled elastomeric polymer. In such cases, the mechanical strength reinforcing effect of the elastic polymer is not sufficient, and although the resulting artificial leather is flexible, the elongation and tear strength do not reach a level that can be used as clothing, and the elongation recovery is poor. It also had disadvantages such as poor elasticity and the elbows coming off when worn. The present inventors have previously developed an artificial leather that satisfies the flexibility and physical properties necessary for clothing, which is made of a nonwoven fabric made of such ultrafine fibers and whose interstitial spaces are filled with an elastic polymer. Tokukai Akira
We proposed an improved artificial leather represented by 52-107368. Further, proposals have also been made in JP-A-53-122869 and JP-A-53-122872. The structure of the improved artificial leather in this proposal is that a knitted fabric is present in the inner layer region or the back side of an interlaced sheet made of ultrafine fibers, and the ultrafine fibers and knitted fabric are intertwined and integrated with each other. A rubber-like elastic polymer is filled in the interstitial spaces of the intertwined sheet. Artificial leather with such a structure has mechanical properties and elongation properties suitable for clothing due to the knitted fabric, so the filled elastic polymer can hold the downy hair (nup) on the surface and It is sufficient if it exists in order to give the feeling of holding it in the hand that is unique to leather. Therefore, in the artificial leather made by the present inventors, it is possible to sufficiently satisfy the mechanical strength for clothing without impairing the drape properties of the nonwoven fabric serving as the base material. The inventors of the present invention have further investigated the suitability of such artificial leather for clothing and have found that it still has many drawbacks. For example, there are the disadvantages of poor sagging during sewing, the disadvantage that the seams are not strong enough when sewn by a sewing machine, and the seams may shift when more than a certain amount of stress is applied to the seams when worn, and men's clothing. It was discovered that unevenness occurs along the seams in seamed areas with large curvature, such as sleeves and armpits (hereinafter referred to as seam puckering), resulting in a very poor appearance when tailored. The inventors of the present invention have investigated the causes of these defects and investigated improvements in depth, and as a result, we have found that low seam strength, poor sagging properties, and the seam puckering phenomenon have been solved by the use of base materials. It was discovered that there is a deep relationship with the properties of knitted fabrics, and as a result of further studies on the optimal design of these knitted fabrics, they finally arrived at the present invention and were able to provide artificial leather with extremely excellent clothing properties. It is ivy. That is, the present invention provides an intertwined body in which ultrafine fibers of 0.5 denier or less cover at least one entire surface of the fabric and are three-dimensionally intertwined with the fabric, and fluff of the ultrafine fibers is formed on the surface of the entangled body. A sheet-like article in which an elastic polymer is filled in the interstitial spaces of the entangled body, and the fibers constituting the woven fabric have a single filament fineness of 4 denier or less and are twisted at an actual twist of 100 to 1500 T/m. This invention relates to suede-like artificial leather, which is made of multifilament and is characterized by elongation of the sheet-like material under a load of 1 kg/cm of 3 to 20% in the warp direction and 5 to 40% in the weft direction. One of the key points of the structure of the artificial leather according to the present invention is the design of the fabric inside or on the back side of the entangled body used as the base. This is because the physical properties of artificial leather greatly depend on the physical properties of the textile.In this sense, the detailed explanation of the present invention will be given from the textile.The textile in the present invention is a multi-layered fabric with a single fiber fineness of 4 deniers or less. Filament is 100~1500T/m
It is essential that the material is made of real twisted material. Here, actual twist usually means the twist itself applied to this multifilament in the case of multifilament yarn, and refers to multifilament yarn that has undergone false twisting (therefore, has virtually no twist). In the case of filament yarn, it means actual twist given by additional twisting after false twisting. The fineness of the fibers that make up the fabric is closely related to the flexibility of the leather. Fabrics made of single fibers that exceed 4 deniers themselves lack flexibility, and the texture of the resulting artificial leather is hard and stiff. This does not meet the purpose of the present invention. When the denier is 4 denier or less, the resulting fabric will also be highly flexible, and the leather will also be flexible. It is essential that the fibers constituting the fabric be multifilaments with a real twist of 100 to 1500 T/m. Furthermore, 600T/m to 1200T/m is most preferable. In the case of a multifilament in which the constituent raw yarns have been subjected to a real twist of 1500 T/m or more, the resulting artificial leather has extremely low seam strength and is not suitable for practical use. In the case of filaments and untwisted multifilaments, the seam strength is significantly improved, but on the other hand, the tear strength of the leather is extremely reduced, which also results in leather that is not suitable for practical use. In the present invention, multifilament fabrics are made from raw threads twisted with a specific number of twists, thereby simultaneously improving the seam strength and tear strength, which are important among the clothing properties of artificial leather. It was found to be satisfactory. Observing the internal structure of the product of the present invention, in the case of multifilaments with a twist number of 1500T/m or more, the voids are small and there is almost no entanglement between the microfibers and the woven multifilaments, and in the case of multifilaments with a twist number of less than 100T/m. In the case of twisted multifilaments, the voids are large, and the ultrafine fibers and woven multifilaments are seen to be tightly intertwined with each other, which affects the seam strength and tear strength of artificial leather. It seems to determine the size. The multifilament in the present invention may be a usual one, such as 75d/36f, 50d/24f, polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET),
30d/6f, 70d/24f, 20d/6f of nylon 6, etc. are preferably used. Most preferably, a multifilament in which these yarns are false-twisted is used. This is because false-twisted yarn generally has good stretch back properties and is therefore most suitable in terms of its relationship with the elongation of leather, which will be described later. Actual twisting can be easily achieved by twisting the multifilament using a normal twisting machine. The twisting direction may be either S or Z. The fabric weight is preferably 20 to 100 g/m 2 . This basis weight is determined by the relationship with the basis weight of the ultra-fine fibers, and if the basis weight of the fabric is too large, the basis weight of the ultra-fine fibers must be reduced in order to obtain a product with the specified thickness. In this case, the amount of fluffed naps in the resulting product is reduced, and the resulting leather has only a poor appearance with a small writing effect.
On the other hand, if the basis weight of the fabric is small, the mechanical strength that the fabric should originally have will be reduced, and the resulting leather will have insufficient strength, making it unsuitable. In this sense, the fabric weight is preferably 20 to 100 g/m 2 . Although essentially any woven fabric structure such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or woven satin weave can be applied to the product of the present invention, plain weave is most preferable for the purpose of the present invention from the viewpoint of cost and process. The weave density of the plain weave may be either the same number or different numbers, but in the case of the present invention, it is preferable to have the same number.The density naturally varies depending on the fineness of the yarn used and the number of bundles, but for example, 75d/36f~
In the case of 30d/6f PET, 40 to 70 pieces/in is preferable.
Furthermore, S-twist and Z-twist multifilaments may be interwoven. The material for the multifilament of the textile is not particularly limited, and synthetic fibers such as PET, nylon 6, nylon 66, and polyacrylonitrile, and recycled fibers such as rayon and cupra rayon are preferably used, with PET being particularly preferred. Next, it is extremely important that the elongation of the artificial leather of the present invention under a load of 1 kg is within a specific range of 3 to 20% in the warp direction and 5 to 40% in the weft direction. Furthermore, 6 to 15% longitude and 8 to 25% latitude are particularly preferred. Less than 3% in longitudinal direction and/or 5% in latitudinal direction
It has become clear that if it is less than 100%, the characteristics of the garment will be extremely poor, such as poor swarming properties and seam puckering when sewing the garment, making it impossible to obtain clothing that looks well-tailored. 20% or more in longitudinal direction and/or 40% in latitudinal direction
If the elongation is above, sewing characteristics such as sagging and seam puckering will be good, but for example, if clothes made from artificial leather with such elongation are left hanging on a hanger, If you leave it on, it may stretch and not return, or when you wear it, the elbow area may stretch and not return, causing it to "fall out".
Phenomena such as drying were observed, and it was found that only a product with extremely poor elongation recovery could be obtained. It has been found that the fact that artificial leather has elongation in such a specific range also has the surprising effect of making the texture extremely soft. In the case of the artificial leather of the present invention, the elongation of the leather depends on the elongation of the entangled body, and the elongation of the entangled body depends on the elongation of the fabric that is a component of the entangled body, that is, the elongation of the leather. As a result of the study, it became clear that the elongation of the fabric depends on the elongation of the fabric. It can also be said that the elastic polymer does not substantially determine the elongation of the leather. This can be done by extracting and removing the elastic polymer from the artificial leather of the present invention using its solvent, measuring the elongation of the remaining entangled body, and then separating it by pulling out the ultrafine fibers from the entangled body. This can be easily determined by measuring the elongation of the leather and comparing it with the elongation of the leather measured in advance. Next, it is essential that the ultrafine yarn, which is one of the important elements constituting the product of the present invention, has a single fiber of 0.5 denier or less. The single fiber fineness of the ultra-fine yarn is the biggest factor determining the surface quality of the product of the present invention, and if it is larger than 0.5 denier, the writing effect will not be sufficiently expressed and the product value as leather will be lost.
An elegant lighting effect can be obtained starting from 0.5 denier or less. It is preferable that the material of the ultra-fine thread is the same as the material used for the fabric, from the perspective of dyeing, etc., but there are no particular restrictions, and examples include polyester such as PET, synthetic fibers such as nylon 6, nylon 66, polyacrylonitrile, rayon, The effects of the present invention will not be impaired even if any recycled fibers such as Cupra Rayon are used. The ultrafine yarn may be in the form of either long fibers or short fibers. However, from the viewpoint of interlacing and integrating with the fabric, short fibers are preferred. In addition, ultrafine threads may be separated into single fibers, bundled, or a mixture of single fibers and fiber bundles of various sizes, but depending on the density of the surface, In order to achieve excellent writing effects, it is preferable that the fiber be in the form of a single fiber. Furthermore, it is extremely important for the purpose of the present invention that the ultrafine threads are sufficiently three-dimensionally intertwined and integrated with each other and with the fabric. The intertwining in the present invention is mainly performed by the ultrafine fibers entering the interweave gaps of the fabric, but also by the ultrafine fibers entering the filament gaps of the multifilament constituting the fabric. In this case, in the present invention, the degree to which the ultrafine fibers enter the gaps of the multifilament and are entangled is extremely important. That is, if the degree of entanglement is very low and such entanglement is hardly observed, the seam strength will decrease as described above, which is not preferable. In addition, fraying of the fabric may occur from the cut surface. On the other hand, excessive entanglement leads to a decrease in tear strength as mentioned above. Therefore, optimizing the degree of entanglement that occurs by entering the multifilament gap is the most important element in the present invention.
The degree of entanglement is controlled by the number of twists of the multifilament. Also, the entanglement between ultrafine fibers is important for the condition of the nap on the surface. If the ultrafine fibers are not sufficiently entangled with each other, the naps will be long and have low density, making it impossible to obtain a good writing effect. In this way, the entanglement between the ultrafine fibers and the multifilaments constituting the fabric and the entanglement of the ultrafine fibers with each other are important from the physical and surface properties. The elastic polymer constituting the product of the present invention is important for gripping the base of the nap and imparting firm flexibility unique to natural leather. As mentioned above, the mechanical strength of the artificial leather of the present invention is
The advantage of the present invention is that it does not have the drawback of filling a large amount of elastic polymer in order to impart mechanical strength to the leather, thereby making the texture of the leather hard. There is one. The filling amount is preferably 10 to 100% by weight, more preferably 40 to 60% by weight based on the fiber components (ultrafine fibers + textile fibers) in the product. There are no particular restrictions on the type of elastic polymer, but polyurethanes are particularly preferred since they provide the product of the present invention with preferable flexibility. The composition of polyurethane is
As a polyol component, polyester diols such as polyethylene adipate glycol and polybutylene adipate glycol, polyether glycols such as polyethylene glycol and polytetramethylene glycol; as an isocyanate component, aromatic diisocyanates such as diphenylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate, and dicyclohexyl. Alicyclic diisocyanates such as methane-4,4'-diisocyanate, aliphatic diisocyanates such as hexamethylene diisocyanate; as chain extenders, glycols such as ethylene glycol; diamines such as ethylene diamine and 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane; etc. can be used in appropriate combinations. Next, the method for producing artificial leather of the present invention will be described. First, a method for imparting elongation to a woven fabric as a starting material will be described. In order to make the leather have elongation within the specific range of the present invention, the elongation of the fabric in the leather may be approximately equal to the range of the present invention. However, it should be noted that the elongation of the fabric itself as a raw material for obtaining the leather of the present invention does not necessarily match the elongation of the fabric in the leather. This is because the processing steps from encapsulating the fabric itself in an ultrafine fiber sheet to making it into leather, such as the impregnation step with an elastic polymer,
This is because in the dyeing process, etc., tension is often applied to the fabric in the warp and weft directions, especially in the warp direction, and the elongation that the fabric itself initially had often decreases. Therefore, in order to make the elongation of the leather, that is, the elongation of the fabric in the leather, to the warp 3 to 20% and latitude 5 to 40% of the present invention, the elongation of the fabric itself before being processed into leather must be adjusted to the above-mentioned values. It is preferable to design it slightly larger. It is best to decide how large the size should be after fully considering the tension in the leather processing process, but
~10%, latitude 1~10% is preferable. When using a processing process that does not apply tension, the elongation of the raw material fabric itself almost completely matches the elongation of the fabric in the leather, that is, the leather. It goes without saying that the elongation of the leather itself may be set within the range of the elongation of the leather of the present invention. As mentioned above, various methods can be used to impart elongation to the starting material woven fabric itself that is equal to or greater than that of the woven fabric in the leather. In a preferred embodiment, a method is used in which an additionally twisted false-twisted yarn is used as a multifilament, and the elongation of the additionally twisted false-twisted yarn is utilized due to contraction in hot water. For example, it is preferable to apply elongation to the fabric itself by subjecting the fabric made of the extra-twisted false-twisted yarn to a hot water treatment in advance and then elongating it to a predetermined dimension and heat-setting it. The elongation of the fabric can be easily controlled by a combination of the temperature and time of hot water shrinkage, the degree of rubbing, the elongation rate during heat setting, and the setting temperature. In this embodiment, there are no particular restrictions on the false twisting conditions for imparting hot water shrinkability,
The number of false twists varies depending on the type of yarn, denier, etc., and is usually selected appropriately in the range of 1500 to 4000 T/m, and the direction of false twisting is different from S-twisting/Z-untwisting and Z-twisting/S-untwisting. Either is fine. However, the number of additional twists is 100 to 1500T/
Must be m. Next, a sheet made of ultra-fine fibers is made. As a method for obtaining ultrafine threads, conventionally known methods can be applied. For example, latent ultrafine yarn methods such as the sea-island fiber method and mixed fiber method, direct spinning methods as typified by Japanese Patent Application No. 40519/1983, and melt blowing methods can all be used as a method for obtaining the ultrafine yarn of the present invention. can. This can be easily made into a sheet by cutting or not cutting the ultrafine fibers and making a non-woven web by card cross layering, by paper making method, or by directly making it into a web by melt blowing. .
In view of the uniformity of the sheet and in combination with the columnar flow method, a microfiber sheet produced by the papermaking method is preferably used. The fabric is inserted between the ultrafine fiber sheets obtained in this way or is attached to the back side of the sheets and subjected to a subsequent entangling process. It is also preferable that this substrate contains fibers that have different solubility in solvents than the ultrafine fibers that will become the product, and that can be extracted and removed by solvents during the process, thereby adjusting the texture. . Any type of fiber may be used as long as it has a different solvent solubility from the ultrafine fiber that will become the product, but if the ultrafine fiber that will become the product is PET, polyvinyl alcohol fibers that are soluble in hot water are preferred. The intertwined state of the present invention can be obtained by adjusting the intertwining method and conditions depending on the properties of the ultrafine fibers and the fabric. Using short fibers of about 3 to 10 mm, which are made into ultra-fine fibers, the number of additional twists is 100 to 100 as a fabric.
Fabric weight 20-100 with 1500T/m false twisted yarn
When using a plain weave fabric of about g/m 2 , it is preferable to use a columnar water stream ejected from a pore nozzle as the entangling means. For example, the conditions are:
It is preferable that a columnar water stream with a jetting pressure of 1 to 30 kg/cm 2 be applied to the front and back surfaces of the sheet without any corner from a multi-pore nozzle with a nozzle diameter of 0.05 to 0.5 mm. In addition to this method, a needle punch method, which has been widely used as a method for interlacing nonwoven fabric substrates of artificial leather, can also be used. Next, the entangled body is fluffed. As a means for fluffing, conventionally known means such as emery paper, cloth, a brush, etc. can be used, but fluffing with emery paper is preferable in terms of the quality of the naps. Fluffing can be done before or after impregnating the elastomeric polymer. When fluffing is performed before impregnation with the elastomer, in order to block the fluff from the elastomer before filling, the layer of fluff on the surface of the entangled body is coated with a glue that is insoluble in the elastomer solvent. agents, such as carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA),
Alternatively, coating with a blend adhesive of CMC and PVA is also a preferable method. Furthermore, before coating the surface of the tangled body with a sizing agent, it is also preferable to impregnate the tangled body with a sizing agent before or after fluffing. By carrying out this operation, it becomes easier to handle the entangled body during the processing process of the artificial leather of the present invention, especially during the impregnation process with the elastic polymer, and after impregnating the elastic polymer, the sizing agent is extracted and removed. By doing so, there are advantages such that the artificial leather of the present invention has good flexibility. Water-soluble glue is preferable from the viewpoint of processability.
PVA, CMC, etc. are suitable. As a method for filling an entangled body with a polymer, there is a method of impregnating and coagulating an elastic polymer using a conventionally known dry coagulation method or wet coagulation method. The wet coagulation method, in which a solution of is applied to a substrate and then coagulated and precipitated in water or a mixed solvent of water and a solvent for the elastic polymer, imparts an appropriate microporous structure to the filled elastic polymer. preferable. When polyurethane is used as a preferred example of the elastic polymer, dimethylformamide (DMF) is preferably used as the solvent, and water or a water-DMF solvent is preferably used in the coagulation bath during wet coagulation. It is also good to add coloring agents such as pigments and dyes to polyurethane. When the impregnation and coagulation is completed, the above-mentioned sizing agent, that is, the sizing agent impregnated into the entangled body, the sizing agent coated on the surface of the entangled body, and the ultrafine fibers and solvent that constitute the product of the present invention mixed into the ultrafine fiber sheet. If there are fibers with different solubility, they are extracted and removed. Finally, this is dyed and the formed nap is preferably styled with a brush or the like to obtain the artificial leather of the present invention which has good lighting effects and excellent clothing properties. The present invention will be specifically explained below using Examples.
The measurement method used in the following examples was as follows. (1) Elongation: The elongation rate under a load of 1Kg/cm is JISL-
Values measured according to 1079C. (2) Flexibility: Value determined by JISL-1079 cantilever method. (3) Seam strength: Compliant with JISL-1093. Measurements were made under dry conditions and wet conditions (test piece immersed in water for 30 minutes). 30Kg/in or more was considered to be passed. (4) Tear strength: Compliant with JIS1079C pendulum method. A weight of 1.2Kg or more was considered a pass. (5) Sewing properties: Evaluated by seam puckering properties and sagging properties. Regarding the seam puckering property, two test pieces of width 10 cm and length of 30 cm were sewn together to form a curve with a curvature of 0.04 cm -1 to match the side lines of men's clothing, and the results were visually judged as shown in Table 1. It was evaluated using the following evaluation criteria. Regarding the sagging property, the samples were actually applied to the sewing process and evaluated according to the evaluation criteria shown in Table 1.
【表】
(6) 伸長回復性:着用時のヒジ抜けなどの現象は
皮革の10%定伸長回復率と良好な対応を示すこ
とがわかつたのでこの値を尺度として用いるこ
ととした。10%定伸長回復率はJIS1079−Cに
準拠した。
実施例 1
75d/36fのポリエチレンテレフタレート
(PET)の延伸糸を通常の仮撚機で3000T/m(仮
撚S撚、解撚Z撚)の仮撚を施こし、この仮撚加
工糸を通常の加撚機でもつてZ方向に1000T/m
追撚した。この追撚仮撚加工糸を経緯の打込み密
度が各々50本/inになる様に平織に製織した。織
物の目付量は50g/m2であつた。
得られた織物を95℃の熱水中で30分間処理した
ところ、経緯共にもとの長さに対して各々40%ず
つ収縮した。これを乾燥後ピンテンターを用いて
経緯各々所定の伸長率で伸長し180℃で熱セツト
した。得られた織物の伸度は第2表に示した。
織物とは別に、特願昭54−40519の方法により
PETの0.1dの極細延伸糸を作り、これを3mmにカ
ツトし、更にポリビニルアルコール(PVA)の
1d,3mmカツト糸をPET/PVA=80/20の比率
で混合し、抄造法により100g/m2の混抄シート
を得た。この混抄シート上の上に先に準備した織
物を載せ、更にその上に前記の混抄シートを載せ
サンドイツチの三層シートにした。
この三層シートに0.2mmφのオリフイスを有す
るノズルから15Kg/cm2の圧の高圧水流を噴射し、
その操作を表裏各々4回ずつ繰り返した。この結
果三層シートはPET極細繊維相互及び極細繊維
と織物の追撚仮撚加工糸相互は十分に三次元に交
絡した。次いで交絡シートの表面を240メツシユ
のエメリーペーパーを装着したベルトサンダーで
毛羽立てし、ポリビニルアルコール(PVA)の
5%水溶液にその基体を含浸し絞り率300%で絞
り、乾燥した。PVAの付着量は基体繊維に対し
15重量%(以下付着量%は全て重量%とする。)
であつた。毛羽立てした方の表面層にカルボキシ
ルメチルセルロース(CMC)の濃厚溶液をドク
ターナイフで薄くコートし乾燥したのち、ポリエ
ーテル系のポリウレタンの15%DMF溶液を含浸
し、マングルで絞り、常温の水中に1分間凝固さ
せ乾燥した。
その後、90℃の熱水中で30分間かけて、基体シ
ート中のPVA繊維、PVA,CMCを全て抽出し乾
燥した。最後にこうして得られたシート状物を
Sumikaron Rubine SE−2BL5%owfで染色し、
デクロリン2g/で還元洗浄を施こし乾燥した
のち、表面をナイロンブラシで軽く整毛した。
得られた人工皮革は、極めて優美なライテイン
グエフエクトを有するスエード調表面を有し、風
合も天然スエードに酷似したはりのある柔軟性を
有したものであつた。更に衣料特性も第3表に見
られる様に縫目、引裂強度、伸長回復性に優れ、
かつ縫製性も優秀で、これを用いて縫製した婦人
物コートは極めて上品な感じを与える仕立て映え
のするものであつた。[Table] (6) Elongation recovery: It was found that phenomena such as elbows coming off during wear correspond well to the 10% constant elongation recovery rate of leather, so this value was used as a measure. The 10% constant elongation recovery rate was based on JIS1079-C. Example 1 A drawn yarn of 75d/36f polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is false-twisted at 3000T/m (false-twisted S twist, untwisted Z-twisted) using a normal false-twisting machine, and this false-twisted yarn is then 1000T/m in the Z direction even with a twisting machine
Added twist. This extra-twisted, false-twisted processed yarn was woven into a plain weave so that the weft density was 50 yarns/in for each yarn. The fabric weight was 50 g/m 2 . When the resulting fabric was treated in hot water at 95°C for 30 minutes, it shrunk by 40% relative to its original length in both warp and weft. After drying, it was elongated using a pin tenter at a predetermined elongation rate for each direction and heat set at 180°C. The elongation of the obtained fabrics is shown in Table 2. Separately from textiles, by the method of patent application 1984-40519.
We made a 0.1d ultra-fine drawn PET thread, cut it to 3mm, and then made it with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA).
1d, 3mm cut yarns were mixed at a ratio of PET/PVA = 80/20, and a 100g/m 2 mixed sheet was obtained by a papermaking method. The previously prepared woven fabric was placed on top of this mixed paper sheet, and the above-mentioned mixed paper sheet was further placed on top of this to form a three-layer sandwich sheet. A high-pressure water stream with a pressure of 15 kg/cm 2 is sprayed onto this three-layer sheet from a nozzle with an orifice of 0.2 mmφ,
This operation was repeated four times on each side. As a result, in the three-layer sheet, the PET microfibers and the extra-twisted and false-twisted processed yarns of the microfibers and the fabric were sufficiently intertwined in three dimensions. Next, the surface of the entangled sheet was fluffed with a belt sander equipped with 240 mesh emery paper, and the substrate was impregnated with a 5% aqueous solution of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), squeezed at a squeezing rate of 300%, and dried. The amount of PVA attached is based on the base fiber.
15% by weight (All adhesion percentages below are by weight.)
It was hot. After coating the fluffed surface layer with a thin layer of a concentrated solution of carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) using a doctor knife and drying it, it was impregnated with a 15% DMF solution of polyether-based polyurethane, squeezed with a mangle, and soaked in water at room temperature for 1 hour. Allow to solidify for minutes and dry. Thereafter, all the PVA fibers, PVA, and CMC in the base sheet were extracted and dried in hot water at 90°C for 30 minutes. Finally, the sheet-like material obtained in this way is
Stained with Sumikaron Rubine SE−2BL5%owf,
After reduction cleaning with 2 g of dechlorin and drying, the surface was lightly styled with a nylon brush. The obtained artificial leather had a suede-like surface with an extremely elegant writing effect, and had a firm and flexible feel that closely resembled that of natural suede. Furthermore, as shown in Table 3, the clothing properties are excellent in terms of seams, tear strength, and elongation recovery.
It also has excellent sewing properties, and the women's coats sewn using it have an extremely elegant feel and are well-tailored.
【表】【table】
【表】
比較例 1
実施例1と同様の織物の生機を95℃の熱水中で
30分間収縮処理したものを熱セツトせずに基体シ
ート中の織物として用い実施例1と同様の加工を
して人工皮革を得た。この製品の表面性、風合と
もに実施例1で得られた製品と大差なかつたが第
3表に見られる様に伸長回復性が極めて悪く実用
に耐えないものであつた。
比較例 2
実施例1と同様の織物の生機を収縮処理をせず
にピンテンターで経緯共に2%ずつ伸長して180
℃で熱セツトした。その結果織物の伸びは経2.3
%、緯3.4%と極めて低いものであつた。これを
基体シート中の織物として用い実施例1と同様の
加工を行ない人工皮革を得た。諸物性は第3表に
示したが、この様な伸度の小さい織物を用いて作
つた皮革は、縫目パツカリング性、いせこみ性な
ど極めて縫製性の悪いものであつた。
比較例 3
織物の構成原糸として仮撚加工糸の代わりに、
75d/36fのPETのストレート糸を800T/mS方向
に加撚したものを用い、実施例1と同様の設計で
織物を得た。この織物を用い実施例1と同様の方
法で人工皮革を作つたが、第3表に見られる様に
特に縫目強度が小さく不可であつた。
比較例 4
実施例1の織物の仮撚加工糸を全く追撚せずに
生機を作り、収縮、熱セツト処理をして経10.0%
緯14.8%の伸度を有する織物を作つた。この織物
を用い実施例1と同様の方法で人工皮革を作つた
が、第3表に見られる様に引裂強度が極端に低く
不可であつた。
比較例 5
実施例1と同様の仮撚加工糸に2000T/mZ方
向の追撚を施こしたものを構成原糸として実施例
1と同様の組織で織物を作り、収縮、熱セツト処
理してこれを用いて実施例1と同様の方法で人工
皮革を作つた。この製品は第3表に見られる様に
特に縫目強度が小さく不可であつた。
実施例 2
PETの50d/36fの3000回仮撚加工(加撚S、
解撚Z)糸をZ方向に第4表に示した追撚数で追
撚したマルチフイラメントを経60本/in、緯55
本/inの密度で平織織物にした。目付量は40g/
m2であつた。この生機を90℃の熱水中で40分収縮
処理をし(収縮率は追撚数により大差なかつ
た。)、同一の伸長率(経15%、緯17%)で180℃
のピンテンター中で緊張熱処理を行なつた。得ら
れた織物の伸度は第4表の様であつた。
これら織物を各々実施例1と同様の方法で加工
し皮革を得た。これらは表面性が優美なライテイ
ングエフエクトを有し、はりのある柔軟性を有す
るもので、かつ衣料特性も第4表に示した様に極
めて優秀なものであつた。
比較例として本発明の範囲外の追撚数を有する
仮撚加工糸を用いて作つた人工皮革の物性も第4
表に示したがいずれも不可であつた。[Table] Comparative Example 1 The same gray fabric as in Example 1 was placed in hot water at 95°C.
The material subjected to the shrinkage treatment for 30 minutes was used as a fabric in the base sheet without heat setting, and processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain artificial leather. The surface properties and texture of this product were not significantly different from the product obtained in Example 1, but as shown in Table 3, the elongation recovery was extremely poor and could not be put to practical use. Comparative Example 2 The same gray fabric as in Example 1 was stretched by 2% in both warp and warp using a pin tenter without shrinkage treatment to 180 mm.
Heat set at ℃. As a result, the elongation of the fabric is 2.3
%, latitude was extremely low at 3.4%. This was used as a fabric in the base sheet and processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain artificial leather. The physical properties are shown in Table 3, and the leather made using such a woven fabric with low elongation had extremely poor sewing properties such as seam puckering and sagging properties. Comparative Example 3 Instead of false twisted yarn as the constituent yarn of the fabric,
A woven fabric was obtained with the same design as in Example 1 using 75d/36f PET straight yarn twisted in the 800T/mS direction. Artificial leather was made using this fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, but as shown in Table 3, the seam strength was particularly low and was not acceptable. Comparative Example 4 A gray fabric was made without any additional twisting of the false twisted yarn of the fabric of Example 1, and the warp was 10.0 % after being subjected to shrinkage and heat setting treatment.
A fabric with an elongation of 14.8 % was produced. Artificial leather was made using this fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, but as shown in Table 3, the tear strength was extremely low and was not acceptable. Comparative Example 5 A woven fabric was made with the same texture as in Example 1 using the same false twisted yarn as in Example 1 and an additional twist in the 2000T/mZ direction as the constituent yarn, and was subjected to shrinkage and heat setting treatment. Using this, artificial leather was made in the same manner as in Example 1. As shown in Table 3, this product had particularly low seam strength and was unacceptable. Example 2 PET 50d/36f 3000 times false twisting (twisting S,
Untwisting Z) Multifilament yarns are twisted in the Z direction at the number of twists shown in Table 4, with a warp of 60/in and a weft of 55.
It was made into a plain weave fabric with a density of 1/in. The basis weight is 40g/
It was m2 . This gray cloth was subjected to shrinkage treatment in hot water at 90℃ for 40 minutes (the shrinkage rate did not differ much depending on the number of additional twists), and was heated to 180℃ at the same elongation rate (warp 15%, latitude 17%).
The tension heat treatment was carried out in a pin tenter. The elongation of the obtained fabric was as shown in Table 4. Each of these woven fabrics was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain leather. These had a writing effect with a graceful surface, firm flexibility, and had extremely excellent clothing properties as shown in Table 4. As a comparative example, the physical properties of artificial leather made using a false twisted yarn having a number of additional twists outside the range of the present invention are also shown in the fourth example.
Although shown in the table, none of them were possible.
【表】
実施例 3
50d/24dのPET繊維を2700T/m仮撚加工
(S加撚Z解撚)したものを一つはZ方向
1200T/mに追撚し、他の一つはS方向に
1200T/m追撚した二種類の追撚方向の異なる原
糸を準備した。この原糸を用い製織する際、経糸
にはZ追撚糸を55本/inの密度で引揃え、緯糸に
はS追撚糸とZ追撚糸を2本ずつ交互に55本/
in、の密度で打込み目付量45g/m2の平織織物を
作つた。これを95℃の熱水で25分間収縮処理し
た。この時の織物の収縮率は経15.0%、緯22.0%
であつた。更にピンテンターで経5.0%、緯7.0%
伸長し180℃で熱セツトした。得られた伸度は経
11.0%、緯15.0%であつた。
この織物を用いて実施例1と同様の方法で皮革
を作つた。表面性、風合共実施例1で得られた製
品と同様に極めて優れたものであつた。
皮革の物性は
縫目強度:乾41.5Kg/in
湿39.9Kg/in
引裂強度:2.1Kg
10%定伸長回復率:1回91.8%
5回87.3%
縫目パツカリング性:〇
いせこみ性:〇
柔軟度:46mm
と極めて優れた衣料特性を有したものであつた。
実施例 4
直接紡糸法によつて得られたPETの0.15d,5
mmカツトの極細短繊維80部とPVAの1d,3mmカ
ツトの短繊維20部を混合して抄造し、目付量100
g/m2のシートを得た。同様に直接紡糸法によつ
て得られたナイロン6の0.2d,5mmカツトの極細
短繊維60部とPVAの1d,3mmカツト長の短繊維
40部とを混抄して目付量120g/m2のシートを得
た。この2枚のシートの間に実施例1のNo.1と同
じ織物を挿入し、実施例1と同様に染色前迄加工
した。染色はPET側を分散染料で、ナイロン6
を酸性染料で二浴染をし、表面・裏面共に軽くブ
ラツシングして整毛して仕上げた。
こうして得られた人工皮革は表・裏面が異色染
めされているのでいわゆるリバーシブル効果を有
する表面性に優れたスエード調人工皮革であつ
た。
皮革の物性は
縫目強度:乾43.7Kg/in
湿41.2Kg/in
引裂強度:2.3Kg
10%定伸長回復率:1回87.3%
5回85.5%
縫目パツカリング性:〇
いせこみ性:〇
と極めて優れた衣料特性を有したものであつた。
実施例 5
70d/24fのナイロン6を仮撚加工(2700T/
m、加撚Z解撚S)した糸を600T/mS方向に追
撚したマルチフイラメントを経50本/in、緯55
本/in、の密度の平織に製織した。目付量は52
g/m2であつた。
一方、直接紡糸法によつて0.15dのナイロン6
を得て、これを3mmにカツトした短繊維90部に
1d,3mmカツトのPVA短繊維10部を混合し抄造
法により目付量110g/m2の極細繊維シートを作
つた。先に準備したナイロン6の織物を80℃の熱
水で収縮処理しピンテンターで熱セツト処理し、
経16.5%、緯17.5%の伸度を付与した。
この織物を先の極細繊維シートの2枚の間には
さみ、柱状液処理以降実施例1と同様の方法で皮
革加工し、酸性染料で染色後、整毛した。この皮
革の衣料特性は
縫目強度:乾35.7Kg/in
湿30.6Kg/in
引裂強度:1.9Kg
10%定伸長回復率:1回85.9%
5回82.7%
いせこみ性:〇
縫目パツカリング性:〇
と極めて優秀なものであつた。更に表面も優美な
ライテイングエフエクトを有し、風合もふくらみ
のある柔軟性を有したものであつた。
実施例 6
メルトブロー法により得られた平均繊度0.01d
のPETの集積された目付量80g/m2の不織ウエ
ブを、実施例1No.1の目付量50g/m2の織物を間
に挿入した0.1d,5mmカツトの極細PET繊維90部
と1d,5mmカツトのPVA短繊維10部からなる目
付140g/m2の混抄シート上に載せ、実施例1と
同様の方法で人工皮革を作つた。得られた皮革は
メルトブロー法PET繊維を表面にした為に、そ
の表面に極めて緻密なナツプを有するバツク調の
表面性を有し、かつ柔軟性に富んだ皮革であつ
た。
皮革の物件は
縫目強度:乾38.6Kg/in
湿37.0Kg/in
引裂強度:2.5Kg
10%定伸長回復率:1回86.4%
5回83.6%
縫目パツカリング性:〇
いせこみ性:〇
と極めて優れた衣料特性を有したものであつた。[Table] Example 3 50d/24d PET fibers were subjected to 2700T/m false twisting (S twisting, Z untwisting), one in the Z direction
Add twist to 1200T/m, and the other one is in the S direction.
Two types of yarns twisted at 1200 T/m with different twisting directions were prepared. When weaving using this raw yarn, the warp yarns are lined with Z additional twist yarns at a density of 55 yarns/in, and the weft yarns are alternately filled with two S additional twist yarns and two Z additional twist yarns, 55 yarns/in.
A plain weave fabric with a density of 45 g/m 2 was made with a density of 45 g/m 2 . This was subjected to shrinkage treatment in hot water at 95°C for 25 minutes. The shrinkage rate of the fabric at this time was 15.0% in the warp and 22.0 % in the weft.
It was hot. In addition, the pin tenter has a warp of 5.0% and a latitude of 7.0 %.
It was elongated and heat set at 180°C. The obtained elongation is
The latitude was 11.0 % and the latitude was 15.0 %. Leather was made using this fabric in the same manner as in Example 1. Similar to the product obtained in Example 1, both surface properties and texture were extremely excellent. The physical properties of leather are: Seam strength: Dry 41.5 Kg/in Wet 39.9 Kg/in Tear strength: 2.1 Kg 10% constant elongation recovery rate: 1 time 91.8 % 5 times 87.3 % Seam It had extremely excellent clothing properties, with puckering properties: 〇 sagging properties: 〇 and flexibility: 46 mm. Example 4 0.15d, 5 of PET obtained by direct spinning method
The paper is made by mixing 80 parts of ultra-fine short fibers with a mm cut and 20 parts of PVA short fibers with a 1d and 3 mm cut, and has a basis weight of 100.
A sheet of g/m 2 was obtained. 60 parts of ultrafine short fibers of 0.2 d, 5 mm cut length of nylon 6 and 1 d, 3 mm cut length of PVA short fibers obtained by the same direct spinning method.
A sheet with a basis weight of 120 g/m 2 was obtained by mixing and paper-making 40 parts. The same fabric as No. 1 of Example 1 was inserted between these two sheets, and processed in the same manner as in Example 1 until dyeing. For dyeing, use disperse dye on the PET side and dye it with nylon 6.
The hair was dyed in two baths with acid dye, and the front and back sides were lightly brushed and finished. The artificial leather thus obtained was a suede-like artificial leather with excellent surface properties and a so-called reversible effect since the front and back surfaces were dyed in a different color. The physical properties of leather are: Seam strength: Dry 43.7 Kg/in Wet 41.2 Kg/in Tear strength: 2.3 Kg 10% constant elongation recovery rate: 1 time 87.3 % 5 times 85.5 % Seam It had extremely excellent clothing properties, with puckering property: 0 and sagging property: 0. Example 5 False twisting of 70d/24f nylon 6 (2700T/
m, twisted Z untwisted S) multi-filament with additional twist in 600T/mS direction, warp 50/in, weft 55
It was woven into a plain weave with a density of 1/in. The basis weight is 52
g/ m2 . On the other hand, 0.15d nylon 6 was produced using the direct spinning method.
and cut it into 90 parts of short fibers of 3 mm.
An ultrafine fiber sheet with a basis weight of 110 g/m 2 was made by mixing 10 parts of PVA short fibers cut 1 d.3 mm and using a paper-making method. The nylon 6 fabric prepared earlier was shrink treated with 80℃ hot water and heat set using a pin tenter.
An elongation of 16.5 % in longitude and 17.5 % in latitude was given. This woven fabric was sandwiched between the two ultrafine fiber sheets, treated with a columnar liquid, processed into leather in the same manner as in Example 1, dyed with an acid dye, and then straightened. The clothing properties of this leather are: Seam strength: Dry 35.7 Kg/in Wet 30.6 Kg/in Tear strength: 1.9 Kg 10% constant elongation recovery rate: 1 time 85.9 % 5 times 82.7 % It was extremely excellent, with scorching resistance: 〇 and seam puckering resistance: 〇. Furthermore, the surface had an elegant writing effect, and the texture was soft and full. Example 6 Average fineness 0.01d obtained by melt blowing method
A non-woven web with a basis weight of 80 g/m 2 made of accumulated PET was mixed with 90 parts of ultra-fine PET fibers of 0.1 d, 5 mm cut and 1 d with a woven fabric of Example 1 No. 1 having a basis weight of 50 g/m 2 inserted between them. An artificial leather was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 by placing it on a mixed paper sheet with a basis weight of 140 g/m 2 consisting of 10 parts of short PVA fibers cut into 5 mm. Since the obtained leather was made of melt-blown PET fibers, it had a baggy surface with extremely dense naps on its surface, and was highly flexible. For leather items: Seam strength: Dry 38.6 Kg/in Wet 37.0 Kg/in Tear strength: 2.5 Kg 10% constant elongation recovery rate: 1 time 86.4 % 5 times 83.6 % Seam It had extremely excellent clothing properties, with puckering property: 0 and sagging property: 0.
Claims (1)
とも片面全体を覆つて織物と三次元交絡している
交絡体からなり、該交絡体の表面に該極細繊維の
毛羽が形成されており、かつ該交絡体の組織間隙
に弾性重合体が充填されているシート状物におい
て、該織物を構成する繊維が単糸繊度4デニール
以下で、100〜1500T/mの実撚りが施されたマ
ルチフイラメントからなり、かつシート状物の1
Kg/cmの荷重下での伸度が経方向3〜20%、緯方
向5〜40%であることを特徴とするスエード調人
工皮革。 2 織物を構成するマルチフイラメントが仮撚加
工糸であることを特徴とする特許請求の範囲第1
項記載のスエード調人工皮革。 3 織物の目付量が20〜100g/m2であることを
特徴とする特許請求の範囲第1項記載のスエード
調人工皮革。 4 織物の組織が平織であることを特徴とする特
許請求の範囲第1項記載のスエード調人工皮革。[Scope of Claims] 1 Consists of an intertwined body in which ultrafine fibers of 0.5 denier or less cover at least one entire surface of the fabric and are three-dimensionally intertwined with the fabric, and fluff of the ultrafine fibers is formed on the surface of the entangled body. In a sheet-like article in which the interstitial spaces of the intertwined body are filled with an elastic polymer, the fibers constituting the woven fabric have a single yarn fineness of 4 denier or less and are twisted at a rate of 100 to 1500 T/m. 1 of the sheet-like material made of multifilament
A suede-like artificial leather characterized by an elongation of 3 to 20% in the warp direction and 5 to 40% in the weft direction under a load of Kg/cm. 2. Claim 1, characterized in that the multifilaments constituting the fabric are false twisted yarns.
Suede-like artificial leather as described in section. 3. The suede-like artificial leather according to claim 1, wherein the fabric has a basis weight of 20 to 100 g/ m2 . 4. The suede-like artificial leather according to claim 1, wherein the texture of the fabric is a plain weave.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP55158108A JPS5782583A (en) | 1980-11-12 | 1980-11-12 | Suede like artificial leather having excellent garment property |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP55158108A JPS5782583A (en) | 1980-11-12 | 1980-11-12 | Suede like artificial leather having excellent garment property |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS5782583A JPS5782583A (en) | 1982-05-24 |
| JPH0128151B2 true JPH0128151B2 (en) | 1989-06-01 |
Family
ID=15664470
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP55158108A Granted JPS5782583A (en) | 1980-11-12 | 1980-11-12 | Suede like artificial leather having excellent garment property |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS5782583A (en) |
Families Citing this family (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE3483149D1 (en) * | 1984-01-05 | 1990-10-11 | Du Pont | UNWOVEN FABRICS. |
| JPH0639747B2 (en) * | 1984-11-30 | 1994-05-25 | 旭化成工業株式会社 | Artificial leather with excellent wearing feeling and method for producing the same |
| JPS6278281A (en) * | 1985-09-27 | 1987-04-10 | Toray Ind Inc | High-tenacity flexible leathery material and production thereof |
| US5256429A (en) * | 1985-09-27 | 1993-10-26 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Composite sheet for artificial leather |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS539301A (en) * | 1976-07-12 | 1978-01-27 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co | Production of leather like sheet structre |
| JPS53122872A (en) * | 1977-04-01 | 1978-10-26 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co | Production of suede like sheet article |
-
1980
- 1980-11-12 JP JP55158108A patent/JPS5782583A/en active Granted
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS5782583A (en) | 1982-05-24 |
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