JPH03174052A - Woven fabric with tinsel used on whole surface of silk cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain cloth with tinsels over the whole surface of silk cloth, having uniform surface gloss and excellent in hand without causing curling and bright specks of tinsels by using silk yarns in warp yarns and round twisted tinsels in weft yarns and alternately weaving Z-twist threads and S-twist threads of the above-mentioned tinsels. CONSTITUTION:Silk yarns are used as warp yarns and round twisted tinsels prepared by slitting a polyester film having an antioxidant facing layer formed on the silver vacuum deposition layer surface and then intertwisting the resultant flat foil yarn with rayon core yarn are used as weft yarns to weave cloth. In the process, Z-twist threads and S-twist threads of the aforementioned tinsels are alternately woven to form the objective cloth with the tinsels used over the whole surface of silk cloth.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Technical Field] The present invention relates to silk fabrics, and more particularly to silk fabrics with full-surface gold-passing.

[Prior art] Traditionally, silk threads such as crepe and other silk fabrics have been made by warping the silk threads on a conventionally known general loom, and then using a single weft thread to remove the entire thread using gold and silver threads twisted in a certain direction as weft threads. etc., and the distance between the round twisted gold thread and the round twisted gold and silver thread was woven. It is generally called ji-nuki or e-nuki. It is also woven by a method called stitching, but in this case as well, the gold and silver threads are always twisted in the same direction.

The circularly twisted gold and silver thread used is, for example, a wide film in which a polyethylene terephthalate film is provided with an undercoat layer, a silver vapor deposition layer is formed on the undercoat layer using a vacuum evaporation method, and an oxidation-preventing overcoat layer is formed on the surface of the silver vapor deposition layer. Cut into 15cm pieces,
This is further micro-slit into 120 cuts (0,253mm width) to produce a flat foil thread for scouring film, and on the other hand, rayon threads of thicknesses such as 105d, 75d, and 50d are cut 100 to 500 times/m. The core yarn is twisted to the left, and the center of this core yarn is the flat foil yarn 1100~180.
The so-called circular twisting gold and silver thread for scouring was obtained by right-twisting the thread about 0 times/m.

However, the luster of the gray fabric woven in this way is unidirectional (because the gold and silver threads are twisted in one direction). During the scouring process, which is a characteristic of the soup stock, it curls like when it is baked, making it difficult to work with. When scouring is performed, the width direction shrinks, so it is necessary to use considerable force to widen the width, which can damage the gold and silver threads and silk threads, causing shrinkage and uneven luster. Since the fabric has poor flexibility, it requires softening treatment. Lacks elasticity. Curling also occurs when dyeing fabrics, which can cause uneven dyeing and shrinkage.

Curling occurs even after sewing, requiring special ironing. There were other problems.

[Object of the Invention] In view of the above-mentioned conventional problems, the present invention aims to (1) improve workability during pre-treatment and scouring of greige cloth, especially for silk fabrics such as crepe fabrics, etc. (2) prevents shrinkage of raw cloth during various processing; (3) has flexibility that does not require softening after scouring; (4) dyeing process. (5) prevents curling of the fabric after sewing (non-iron); (6) has a smooth feel; (7)
(8) To provide a full-face gold-through silk fabric which prevents the curling of round twisted gold and silver threads, and (8) provides a product with uniform surface gloss and excellent texture.

[Structure of the Invention] That is, the present invention provides a silk fabric entirely gilded fabric in which the conventionally used circularly twisted gold and silver threads and the gold and silver threads circularly twisted in the opposite direction are used as weft threads and silk threads are used as warp threads. This invention relates to a full-surface gold-through silk fabric, characterized in that two types of wefts, round-twisted gold and silver threads, left-twisted gold and silver threads, and right-twisted gold and silver threads, are woven alternately and sequentially.

That is, in the silk fabric entirely gilded fabric of the present invention, conventionally, silk fabric such as crepe woven fabric with gold and silver thread warped on a conventionally known general weaving machine and circularly twisted in a certain direction is used. It was woven over the entire surface using one weft thread. In some cases, another thread was used to remove the threads and create a gap between the round twisted gold thread and the round twisted gold and silver thread. It is generally called ji-nuki or e-nuki. Also, it is woven by a method called stitching, but in this case too, the gold and silver threads are always twisted in the same direction, but instead of the weft being twisted in the round direction and the gold and silver thread being left-twisted. By weaving two types of gold and silver thread alternately and right-twisted gold and silver thread in sequence, the luster of the gray fabric, which conventional silk fabrics had all over the gold thread, is now unidirectional (round-twisted gold and silver thread). Because it flows in one direction) the flow is glistening and the luster is directional, and during the scouring process, which is a characteristic of greige crepe, it curls like when burning a sulno, making it difficult to work, and the width direction shrinks during the scouring process. Therefore, it is necessary to use a considerable amount of force to widen the fabric, which can damage the gold, silver and silk threads and cause them to shrink, causing uneven luster, and the fabric being less flexible, requiring softening treatment. There are problems such as lack of elasticity, curling when dyeing the fabric, uneven dyeing, easy shrinkage, curling even after sewing, and the need for special ironing. Eliminate everything that happened.

For all-over gold-through woven fabrics related to silk fabrics, especially crepe, etc.
(1) Pre-treatment of gray cloth, prevents curling which makes it difficult to process during scouring, (2) Prevents shrinkage of raw cloth during various processing, (3) It has flexibility that does not require softening after scouring, (4) prevents curling and uneven dyeing during dyeing, (5) prevents fabric from curling after sewing (non-ironing), and (6) makes it smooth. It has a smooth feel, (7) prevents the pulling of round twisted gold and silver threads, and (
8) Completed silk fabric with uniform surface gloss and excellent texture.

That is, in the present invention, using threads made of at least pressed copper as warp threads, left-twisted gold and silver threads and right-twisted gold and silver threads are alternately and sequentially woven using two left and right threads, and if necessary, punched threads etc. are inserted to weave the gold and silver threads and the gold and silver threads. By weaving with a distance between the silver thread and the silver thread, it is difficult to work with the pre-treatment and scouring process of the greige fabric, especially in crepe, etc. It prevents the curling that occurs during dyeing, prevents shrinkage of raw cloth during various processing, has flexibility that does not require softening processing after scouring, prevents curling and uneven dyeing during dyeing,
It prevents the fabric from curling after sewing (non-ironing), has a smooth feel, and prevents the pulling of round twisted gold and silver threads.
This makes it possible to provide a silk fabric with a uniform surface gloss and excellent texture.

Silk yarn is used as the warp in the silk fabric of the present invention, and the left-twisted gold and silver yarn includes, for example, the above-mentioned polyethylene terephthalate film provided with an undercoat layer,
On top of that, a silver evaporated layer was applied using a vacuum evaporation method, and an anti-oxidation overcoat layer was formed on the surface of the silver evaporated layer.The wide film was then cut into approximately 15 cm pieces, and this was further cut into 120 pieces (0,253 mm wide) with microslits. On the other hand, rayon thread with a thickness of 105 d, 75 d, 50 d, etc. is left-twisted about 100 to 500 times/m to create a core thread. The flat foil yarn 110 is used as the center of the core yarn.
A right-twisted gold and silver thread for refining, which is twisted right-handed at about 0 to 1800 turns/m and is commonly called a round-twisted scouring gold and silver thread, is made by applying a primer layer to a polyethylene terephthalate film as described above, and then applying silver to it by vacuum evaporation. A 15 cm wide film with an anti-oxidation overcoat layer formed on the surface of the silver vapor deposited layer.
Cut the scouring film into 120 pieces (0.253mm width) and make microslits into 120 pieces (0.253mm width).
On the other hand, a rayon yarn with a thickness of 105 d, 75 d, or 50 d, for example, is right-twisted about 100 to 500 times/m to create a core yarn, and the above flat foil yarn is used as the center of the core yarn.
A gold and silver thread for scouring is used, which is left twisted at a rate of about 1,800 times/m.

Next, the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples.

[Example] Example 1 A known gold and silver thread film for scouring was prepared by forming an undercoat layer, a silver deposited layer, and a topcoat layer on one side of a polyethylene terephthalate film with a thickness of 12 μs, and it was cut into 120 pieces (0,2
A flat foil gold and silver thread was obtained by micro-slitting to a width of 52 mm.

The obtained flat foil gold and silver thread was left-twisted with rayon thread (100 d) (300 times/m'), and then m yarn was twisted (tsoo times/m) to the right-twisted flat foil thread. Round twisted gold and silver thread coned up.

On the other hand, the same flat foil gold and silver thread was twisted by right twisting rayon thread (100 d) (300 times/m), then this flat foil thread was twisted leftward (1500 times/m), and left circular twisting was performed. Gold and silver thread coned up.

Using the obtained circularly twisted gold and silver threads and left circularly twisted gold and silver threads, press copper weaving was carried out over the entire surface.

Weaving A A cloth A was obtained by weaving one full-length gold thread using a conventional short cloth weaving machine, using pure silk for the warp and only right-handed circularly twisted gold and silver thread for the weft. This method is a conventional type.

Weaving B Weaving cloth B was obtained by weaving a full-face gold and silver thread using only the left-handed twisted gold and silver thread in the same manner as weaving except that the left-handed twisted gold and silver thread was used instead of the right-handed twisted gold and silver thread of Weaving A.

Weaving C (all-over gold-through weaving of the tissue of the present invention) A conventional weaving machine with two weaving machines, using pure silk for the warp, one using right round twisted gold and silver thread for the weft, and one for the weft. The ding used left-handed twisted gold and silver thread, and the left and right 9 dings were decorated with all things C.

Cloth A of the silk fabric obtained in this way
Table 1 shows the results of a performance comparison using , Cloth B, and Cloth C.

Table 1 The results of the scouring process were actually tested and confirmed at the Kaya processing plant and the central processing plant of the Tango Textile Industry Association in the Tango area.

[Effects of the Invention] As can be seen from the test obtained in Example 1, in the silk fabric IIa product (cloth C) of the present invention,
Not only during the silk scouring and dyeing process, but also in the finished state, the traditional silk fabric is fully gilded! 115 (cloth A and B), and therefore, the silk fabric of the present invention can be said to be an epoch-making invention.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A full-surface gold-through silk fabric characterized in that the weft is circularly twisted and two types of gold and silver threads, left-twist gold and silver thread and right-twist gold and silver thread, are alternately woven in sequence.