JPH0426406Y2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed explanation of the invention] A. Purpose of the invention [Field of industrial application] The invention mainly relates to jackets made of thin fabric such as dress shirts and blouses. The aim is to provide outerwear that does not give a feeling of resistance to body movements and maintains shape stability by sewing a stretchable fabric that has moderate elasticity in both directions and low washing shrinkage. It is something to do.

[Prior Art] It has been known that elastic fabrics using polyurethane elastic yarns and crimped synthetic fiber yarns can be used to provide clothing that fits the body and has elasticity that responds to body movements. Stretch fabrics containing stretch fabrics generally have poor dimensional stability, particularly high washing shrinkage in the stretch direction, and poor ironing properties.Therefore, garments cut and sewn from these fabrics have poor dimensional stability, It is insufficient in terms of washing resistance, etc., and in order to avoid this drawback, attempts have been made to obtain sewn garments using a tight unidirectional stretchable fabric using a core yarn having a polyurethane elastic core yarn as a raw fabric. It has been put to practical use in slacks, sportswear, etc.

[The problem that the idea aims to solve]

Even in the sewn garments obtained by the conventional unidirectional stretch fabrics mentioned above, it is difficult to obtain sufficient shape stability, washing resistance, and iron finish properties as a garment.
In particular, thin sewn outerwear such as shirts and blouses, which require good shape retention, could not be commercialized at all.

B. Structure of the invention [Means for solving the problem] In order to solve the above-mentioned problems in conventional stretch fabric sewn garments, the present invention was developed through repeated studies and tests to improve the performance of the unidirectional stretch fabric used as the original fabric. result,
A unidirectional stretch fabric using a core yarn made of a crimped polybutylene terephthalate filament yarn is extremely suitable, and by keeping the elongation rate in one direction within an appropriate range and keeping the washing shrinkage rate low. We have succeeded in obtaining a sewn jacket that is comfortable to wear and has stable shape retention.

In other words, the present invention uses a crimped polybutylene terephthalate filament yarn as a core and a core yarn with an elastic elongation rate of 25 to 35% in the warp or weft, which is made by winding and covering short fiber bundles. A stretch fabric woven with elastic yarn and having a unidirectional elongation rate of 15 to 25% and a wash shrinkage rate of 3% or less is used as a raw fabric, and the partial fabric obtained by selectively cutting the raw fabric in the stretch direction is sewn. The gist is an outerwear made of a stretchable fabric, which is characterized in that the yoke part, which is a partial fabric of the outerwear, has elasticity in the shoulder width direction, and the sleeve part has elasticity in the sleeve length direction. It is also the gist that the front and rear sections have elasticity in either the width direction or the length direction.

Hereinafter, the constituent elements of the present invention will be explained with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a stretchable fabric 1 having unidirectional stretchability used in the present invention, in which 2 is a core stretchable yarn which is a constituent yarn in the warp or weft;
is a low stretch yarn woven perpendicularly to the core yarn 2.

The core yarn 2 has a crimped yarn 6 of a polybutylene terephthalate filament or a conjugate filament of polybutylene terephthalate and other polyester components, and is made of natural fibers such as cotton or other synthetic fibers. It is made by winding and covering a bundle of short fibers 7 mixed with the crimped yarn 6, and by adjusting the crimping conditions of the crimped yarn 6 and the core yarn manufacturing conditions, the expansion/contraction rate of the core yarn 2 can be adjusted to 25 to 35%.
In particular, in order to satisfy this condition, it is effective to set the crimping conditions such that the crimped elongation rate of the crimped yarn 6 is 45 to 75%. was experimentally confirmed.

As the low elasticity yarn 3 interwoven with the core yarn 2, ordinary spun yarn, flyment yarn, etc. are used.

Fabrics using the above-mentioned threads can be produced by 15 to 25% of the above-mentioned size by performing the same post-woven fabric finishing process as in the case of conventional stretch fabrics using polyurethane elastic threads, that is, greige heat setting, desizing refining, and dyeing finishing.
It is possible to easily produce a stretchable fabric 1 with a unidirectional stretchability of an elongation rate of , and a selective shrinkage rate of 3% or less.

The elongation/stretching ratio of the crimped yarn 6 described above is a value measured by the following method.

a: Length after 5 minutes with a load of 0.02 g/d b: Length after 30 seconds with a load of 0.67 g/d Crimp elongation rate = b-a/b x 100% Also, core yarn The stretch rate of 2 is JISL1090, the stretch rate of stretch fabric is JISL1096 method B, and the washing shrinkage rate is
This is the value obtained by F-1 method washing and I-1 method drying according to JISL1042.

FIG. 2 is a front view of a dress shirt as an example of outerwear 10, which is the target product of the present invention, which is sewn and tailored using the stretchable fabric 1 described above as a raw fabric.

The outerwear 10 is made of partial fabrics that are cut by selecting the stretch direction (indicated by double-headed arrows) of the original stretch fabric 1, that is, the front best part 11, the back best part 12, and the yoke part 1.
3. The sleeve portion 14, collar portion 15, and cuff portion 16 are sewn.

At this time, it is necessary that the yoke part 13 has elasticity in the shoulder width direction, and the sleeve part 14 has elasticity in the sleeve length direction.
The front and rear body parts 11 and 12 are selectively stretchable in either the width direction or the length direction depending on the purpose of use of the jacket 10, so that they can be worn comfortably without feeling resistance to body movements. It can be used as a comfortable jacket.

Since the collar part 15 and the cuff part 16 are shaped and reinforced by a suitable interlining material, it goes without saying that the elastic fabric 1 does not have to be used.

[Effect]

Since the sewn jacket of the present invention has the above-mentioned structure, its constituent parts are given a preferable stretchability of 15 to 25% in the direction that adapts to the movement of the body, and the stretchability is durable. The core yarn is made of crimped polybutylene terephthalate filament yarn with excellent durability, weather resistance, and dimensional stability, and the washing shrinkage rate in the stretching direction can be suppressed to 3% or less. Therefore, a good feeling of wearing and good shape retention of the outerwear can be maintained over a long period of time.

〔Example〕

Example 1 Conditions for A stretch fabric (1) The warp was 40 count cotton yarn with a thread density of 80 threads/inch.

(2) The weft yarn was the following core yarn with a thread density of 60 threads/inch.

(3) Core yarn conditions Core yarn: 45D crimped yarn of polybutylene terephthalate filament (manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., trade name Artron), crimped elongation rate 63% Wound coated short fibers: Cotton fiber bundle Core yarn count: 30 count Core yarn expansion/contraction elongation rate: 30% (4) The unidirectional elongation rate of the gray fabric made from the above process is achieved by heat setting, desizing refining, and dyeing finishing process.
Made of 20% stretch fabric.

(5) The washing shrinkage rate of the stretch fabric is
0.5%, latitude 2.0%, 1.2% each after 10 washes,
It was 2.8%.

B Jacket sewing conditions Using the elastic fabric of A above as the original fabric, each part of the fabric as shown in Figure 2 was cut and sewn so that the direction of the double arrow was the weft direction to obtain an ordinary dress shirt. .

C wearing test results: One out of three people with different body types wore standard size dress shirts.
After being used for several months, all of them felt very good when worn, and even after washing 8 to 10 times during that time, they did not lose their shape and had a good ironing finish.

Example 2 The warp in the previous example was replaced with 50 count polyester short fiber blended cotton yarn with 40%, and the core yarn wrapped and coated with cotton fiber bundles was replaced with 40 count, and the warp density was 96 pieces/inch.
A stretch fabric was obtained with a weft density of 70 threads/inch. The stretch rate of the core yarn and the stretch rate of the stretch fabric were approximately the same as in the previous example.

The shrinkage rate of the stretch fabric after washing is 0.3% after one wash.
Latitude 1.5%, 10 times 0.8%, 20%.

A casual sports shirt obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that this stretch fabric was used as the original fabric and the front and back body parts were stretched in the direction of the body length, had comfortable stretchability especially during bending and stretching movements, There was no difference from Example 1 in terms of wearability, washing resistance, and shape retention.

For comparison, a conventional elongation rate of 40% using a core yarn with a polyurethane elastic core yarn (stretching rate of 200%)
The washing shrinkage rate measured for the stretch fabric was 4.0% in the stretch direction after one wash, and 7.0% after 10 washes, and sports shirts sewn from this stretch fabric began to feel compressive when worn after the second wash. ,
A phenomenon of puckering of the seams occurred.

C. Effect of the invention As explained above, according to the invention, a stretchable fabric that stably maintains moderate unidirectional stretchability that adapts to body movements when worn, and does not lose its shape even after repeated washing. The practical effect of producing outerwear such as shirts and blouses made of thin elastic fabrics, which have traditionally been difficult to commercialize, is remarkable.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a stretch fabric, and FIG. 2 is a front view showing an example of a sewn tailored jacket. 1... Stretch fabric, 2... Core yarn, 3... Low elasticity yarn, 6... Crimped yarn, 7... Short fiber bundle, 10
...Jacket, 11...Front body part, 12...Back body part, 13...Yoke part, 14...Sleeve part.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claim for Utility Model Registration] 1. A core yarn 2 having a crimped yarn 6 of polybutylene terephthalate filament as a core and a covering yarn wound with short fiber bundles 7 having an elongation rate of 25 to 35%. Or unidirectional elongation rate of 15 to 25% and 3% when used in weft and woven with other low elasticity yarn 3
A stretch fabric jacket characterized in that a stretch fabric 1 having the following washing shrinkage rate is used as a raw fabric, and a partial fabric obtained by selectively cutting the raw fabric 1 in the stretching direction is sewn. 2 The yoke part 13, which is a partial cloth of the jacket, has elasticity in the shoulder width direction, the sleeve part 14 has elasticity in the sleeve length direction, and the front and rear best-looking parts 11 and 12 have elasticity in either the width direction or the length direction, respectively. The elastic fabric jacket according to claim 1, which is made of a stretchable fabric.