JPH04352836A - Production of latently bulky polyester conjugate yarn for woven and knit fabric - Google Patents
Production of latently bulky polyester conjugate yarn for woven and knit fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH04352836A JPH04352836A JP17055991A JP17055991A JPH04352836A JP H04352836 A JPH04352836 A JP H04352836A JP 17055991 A JP17055991 A JP 17055991A JP 17055991 A JP17055991 A JP 17055991A JP H04352836 A JPH04352836 A JP H04352836A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- multifilament
- yarn
- polyester
- heat
- denier
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 8
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 19
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 230000002040 relaxant effect Effects 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000007704 transition Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 abstract description 17
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 22
- 230000002269 spontaneous effect Effects 0.000 description 13
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 9
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 5
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000012805 post-processing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002425 crystallisation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000008025 crystallization Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 2
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000002093 peripheral effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- -1 Polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000006040 Prunus persica var persica Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000006413 Prunus persica var. persica Species 0.000 description 1
- 206010037660 Pyrexia Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001520 comb Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- BXKDSDJJOVIHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N edrophonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CC[N+](C)(C)C1=CC=CC(O)=C1 BXKDSDJJOVIHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003822 epoxy resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012510 hollow fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012770 industrial material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000691 measurement method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920000647 polyepoxide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004580 weight loss Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
【0001】
【産業上の利用分野】本発明はソフトで柔軟、且つドラ
イタッチと適度なはり、腰、ドレープ性を有する絹様織
編物用ポリエステル複合糸条の製造方法に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】これまでポリエステルマルチフィラメン
トはそのすぐれた特性を生かし衣料用途をはじめ工業資
材用としても各種の用途に使用されている。衣料用途と
しては絹様風合はその一つのターゲットとして各社で検
討が進められ一部の分野では絹を凌駕する特性風合が得
られている。例えば熱収縮特性を異にする複数本のマル
チフィラメントからなる複合糸条はふくらみ、嵩高、ウ
ォーム感などすぐれた特性、風合を示し広く使用されて
いる。しかし糸条を構成するマルチフィラメントが全て
熱により収縮する場合には、編織物の組織の拘束力のた
め、糸のもっている収縮率差が充分確保できないととも
に糸の収縮のため編織物が硬くなる傾向にあり、このた
め目付を小さくして収縮代をもたせたり、風合を確保す
るためにアルカリ減量率を大きくするなどの対策を実施
してきた。しかし熱収縮率の大きなフィラメントは一般
に熱処理すると硬化し風合面で充分に満足できるものは
得られていない。これに対して熱処理により伸長するポ
リエステルフィラメントと収縮するフィラメントの混合
糸も知られており、例えば特開昭55−62240号公
報、特開昭56−112537号公報、特開昭60−2
8515号公報などがある。これらのものは前記の収縮
糸同士のものに比べるとはるかにソフトで柔軟な風合が
得られたものの、伸長し突出したフィラメントからなる
ループによりヌメリ感が出たり、熱処理により大きな糸
長差が発現するので糸が分離し、後工程での取扱性に問
題があった。
【0003】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明はポリエステル
フィラメントにおける前記従来の欠点を解消したもので
あってソフト、柔軟さ、上品なドライタッチと適度なは
り、腰、ドレープ性を有するとともに、後工程通過性に
問題のない新規なポリエステル複合糸条の製造方法を提
供することを目的とする。
【0004】
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明はかかる問題点を
解決するために次のような構成を有する。即ちマルチフ
ィラメント延伸糸の破断伸度が30〜45%、△n0.
10〜0.14のポリエステルマルチフィラメントを非
接触ヒーターにて下記〔A〕式の(1)式および(2)
式を同時に満足するヒーター温度T(℃)かつ、20〜
60%のオーバーフィード率でリラックス熱処理を施し
、かくして得た下記〔B〕式を満足するポリエステルマ
ルチフィラメントAと、ポリエステルマルチフィラメン
トBとをA/B=20〜80%/80〜20%(デニー
ル比)となるように合わせて交絡度20〜100コ/m
で交絡処理することを特徴とする織編物用潜在嵩高性ポ
リエステル複合糸条の製造法である。
〔A〕75log{(D×Vy )1/2 /HL}+
4.7(Vy )1/2 ≧T≧25log{(D×V
y )1/2 /HL}+4.7(Vy )1/2 …
(1)T≦Tm−10…(2)
D:リラックス後デニール
V:リラックス取引ローラー速度(m/min)HL:
リラックス非接触式ヒーター長(m)Tm:融点(℃)
Tg:2次転移点温度(℃)
〔B〕SHW(A)≧0%、SHD(A)≦0%SHW
(B)≧0%
SHD(B)−SHD(A)≧5%
DE(A)≧50%
SHW:熱水(100℃)収縮率(%)SHD:乾熱(
160℃)収縮率(%)DE:破断伸度(%)
【0005】本発明のポリエステル複合糸条の製造方法
について説明する。本発明のポリエステル複合糸条の製
造装置の略側面を図1に例示する。自発伸長性に優れた
ポリエステルマルチフィラメントAを製造するには、ま
ず紡速1500〜4000m/minで紡糸した未延伸
糸を延伸温度Tg〜Tg+20℃かつ延伸後の破断伸度
30〜45%、△n0.10〜0.14の範囲で延伸す
れば良い。紡糸速度1500m〜min未満では延伸後
物性が不安定であり、かつ太さ斑が大きくなるので好ま
しくない。また4000m/minを越えると延伸後の
熱収縮率が低く自発伸長性が低くなり、織編物としての
風合が所定のものにならない。好ましくは2000〜4
000m/minである。延伸温度は延伸安定性のため
Tg以上の温度が好ましく、Tg+20℃以上の温度で
は結晶化が進み、自発伸長性が低下する。また延伸温度
は自発伸長性発現にとって重要であるが、延伸時の糸切
れ等操業性の面では破断伸度30%以上にする必要があ
る。破断伸度45%以上では糸斑の発生が見られ好まし
くない。合わせて△nを0.10〜0.14の範囲にす
ることが必要であり、この範囲外ではリラックス熱処理
による自発伸長性の安定性に欠ける。次に自発伸長性を
与える非接触式ヒーターによるリラックス熱処理は下記
(1)式、(2)式を同時に満足するヒーター温度T(
℃)かつオーバーフィード率20〜60%で行うことが
必要である。
75log{(D×Vy )1/2 /HL}+4.7
(Vy)1/2 ≧T≧25log{(D×Vy )1
/2 /HL}+4.7(Vy )1/2 …(1)
T≦Tm−10…(2)
D:リラックス後デニール
V:リラックス取引ローラー速度(m/min)HL:
リラックス非接触式ヒーター長(m)Tm:融点(℃)
Tg:2次転移点温度(℃)
ヒーター温度は自発伸長性に対して、デニールとリラッ
クス処理速度および非接触式ヒーター長に対して本発明
者らは(1)式の関係を見つけ出した。(1)式範囲よ
り高ければ結晶化の進行により、自発伸長性が低下し、
また低ければ自発伸長性の発現は弱くなる。また(1)
式と(2)式を同時に満足することが必要であるが、ヒ
ーター温度を(Tm−10)℃以上にするとドッフィン
グ停台時にヒーターの熱により、ヒーター内停止中にマ
ルチフィラメントが溶断し、再起動性が低下し、工業的
には使用できない。尚、リラックス取引ローラー速度V
yは10〜1500m/min、リラックス非接触式ヒ
ーター長HLは0.1〜2mが好ましい。
【0006】オーバーフィード率は自発伸長性の発現お
よびリラックス熱処理の操業性安定化のため20〜60
%が良い。なおヒーターは接触式ヒーターではマルチフ
ィラメント走行抵抗によりヒーター入口の糸張力が不足
して、ローラー捲付、糸切れが発生するので非接触式ヒ
ーターにする必要がある。このポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメントAを、該ポリエステルマルチフィラメントAと
異なるポリエステルマルチフィラメントとデニール比で
20〜80%/80〜20%となるように合わせて交絡
度20〜100コ/mで交絡処理する。ここで異なるポ
リエステルマルチフィラメントとは、例えばSHW.S
HD等の熱収縮特性が少なくとも1つでも異なったもの
を指す。
【0007】染色、セット処理を施し、糸長差により、
ふくらみ、張り、腰、バルキー性が良好な織編物とする
ためにはポリエステルマルチフィラメントB成分として
沸水収縮率5%以上、160℃乾熱収縮率7%以上であ
ればよい。共に、これより低い場合は十分な糸長差が得
られず、良好な風合の織編物が得られない。尚、沸水収
縮率は5〜60%、160℃乾熱収縮率は7〜80%が
好ましい。勿論、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントが所
謂シックアンドシン糸や自発伸長性糸であってもよいが
、前者の場合は熱水収縮率が5〜30%、後者の場合は
160℃乾熱収縮率が0%以下で且つマルチフィラメン
トAとの伸長差が少なくとも5%あればよい。
【0008】またデニール比で20〜80%となるよう
に混織することも重要であり、自発伸長性ポリエステル
マルチフィラメントが20%未満ではふくらみ、バルキ
ー性が不足し、80%を越えると、張り、腰がないもの
になる。交絡度は撚糸、整経、製織での取り扱い性およ
び織編物での均一な外観を得るために20〜100コ/
mとする必要がある。20コ/m以下では、ポリエステ
ルマルチフィラメントAとポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ントBとが分離し易く、次工程の取り扱い性が低下する
。100コ/mを越えると織編物で均一な外観が得られ
ない。以上の構成により取り扱い性、自発伸長性の発現
性、生産性に優れたポリエステルマルチフィラメントA
とポリエステルマルチフィラメントBとの複合糸条を得
ることができる。
【0009】次に、本発明の製造方法により得られた複
合糸条について述べる。図2は本発明のポリエステル複
合糸条を熱処理して糸長差を発現せしめた後のモデル図
である。図2においてAは主として鞘部を構成するマル
チフィラメントであって、高温熱処理により実質的に伸
長している(自発伸長後のマルチフィラメント)。Bは
芯部を構成するマルチフィラメントであって、熱処理に
より収縮したマルチフィラメントである(熱収縮後のマ
ルチフィラメント)。まず本発明で最も重要な要件であ
る構成マルチフィラメントの熱収縮特性について述べる
。本発明のポリエステル複合糸条を構成するマルチフィ
ラメントAは通常のサイジングなどの工程では、マルチ
フィラメントBとの収縮率差は小さく、しかも実質的に
収縮挙動を示す。このため布帛で同じ糸長差を発現させ
るときにも糸段階ではサイジングしても糸長差(ふくら
み、ループ等)は余り発現せず通常の全て熱収縮する異
収縮混織糸に比べても製織時にははるかに取扱性、製織
性が良好となるのである。すなわち糸の状態で糸長差(
ループ)が発現すると当然のことながらビーミング、製
織の際ループがこすれ合ってガイド、コームなどにひっ
かかったり、開口が悪くなり工程通過性が著しく低下す
る。更に通常の熱収縮マルチフィラメントはサイジング
などで熱処理をうけると、それでほぼ熱セットが固定さ
れファイナルセットなどで160〜180℃程度の高温
熱処理をうけても糸長差は最初の熱セット時以上あまり
発現しないが、本発明の複合糸条の如く、熱水では収縮
するがファイナルセットに相当する高温熱処理で伸長す
るマルチフィラメントを含むことにより、全体として収
縮した布表面より高温での仕上加工によりマルチフィラ
メントAがループ状に突出し、あたかもピーチの表面の
ようにソフトで柔軟なタッチが得られるのである。この
ためにSHW(A)≧0%、SHD(A)≦0%であれ
ばよい。更にふくらみ、嵩高性をもたせるためにSHD
(B)−SHD(A)≧5%が適当であり、5%未満で
はふくらみ、嵩高性が劣るので本発明からは除外される
。ただ余り大きいと表面からの突出ループが大きくなり
すぎアイロンなどの際“てかり”などの問題が発生し易
いので50%以下が好ましい。又同様の理由でSHW(
A)は5%以下、SHD(A)は−15%以上が好まし
い。次にマルチフィラメントAの破断伸度が50%以上
であるのはソフトで柔軟な風合を得るためである。一般
にポリエステルではソフトな風合を得るためにはフィラ
メントのSHWは小さく、破断伸度が大きい方が得られ
易い。これまでに詳述した如く布帛の表面をループを形
成して覆うのは自発伸長マルチフィラメントであり、こ
のマルチフィラメントのタッチが布帛のタッチを決める
からである。しかしあまり破断伸度が大きすぎると取扱
性が悪くなるので100%以下、更に好ましくは80%
以下が良い。
【0010】次にマルチフィラメントBの破断伸度は4
0%以下が好ましく、捲返し、製編織なとの後工程で複
合糸条が伸長されることによる糸斑が発生しないためで
ある。更に布帛にしたあと製品でのひざ抜けなどの問題
を防止するためである。又複合糸条の破断強力も熱収縮
マルチフィラメントにほぼ依存するので熱収縮マルチフ
ィラメントの破断強度は、少なくとも4g/デニールで
且つ複合糸条のデニール比率で20%以上でなければな
らない。もちろん破断強度が高ければマルチフィラメン
トBの比率は若干低くてもよいが20%未満ではマルチ
フィラメントBの収縮力が小さくなり糸長差によるふく
らみが発現されないので本発明からは除外される。尚、
マルチフィラメントBの熱水収縮率および160℃乾熱
収縮率は、それぞれ5〜60%、7〜80%が好ましい
。
【0011】また、マルチフィラメントBの繊維軸方向
に太さムラを有する所謂シックアンドシン糸であっても
よい。但し、その場合、熱水収縮率は5〜30%であれ
ばよい。シックアンドシン糸は、後加工後の糸物性の保
持といった面から考えると配向度(△n)はシン部が1
5〜60×10−3以上、さらに好ましくは160×1
0−3以上がよい。一般にシックアンドシン糸を染色す
ると濃淡差を呈するが、その濃淡差が強過ぎるといった
欠点があったが、かかる発明の混織糸は熱処理すること
によりシックアンドシン糸が内層部に、マルチフィラメ
ントAは外層部に配され、シックアンドシン糸の強過ぎ
る濃淡差がほどよくマルチフィラメントA糸にかくされ
てナチュラルな色調差となる。
【0012】次にマルチフィラメントAは、単糸デニー
ルは3デニール以下のものから構成される必要がある。
3デニールを越えると破断伸度が大きく、ヤング率が低
くても風合が粗硬になるので本発明からは除外される。
しかしあまり細くなると後述する異形断面のフィラメン
トにしても張り、腰がなくなるため0.2デニール以上
が好ましい。但し、3デニール以上のものが混じってい
てもよく(デニールミックス)、平均で3デニール以下
ならばよい。更にフィラメントは断面の外周面に少なく
とも1つの凹部を有する異形断面であることが好ましい
。特に本発明の複合糸条の如く破断伸度が大きいフィラ
メントはソフトだがヌメリ感が出易いので断面形状を異
形にすることによりフィラメント間で点接触部が増加し
、かわいたドライタッチとなるのである。ここでいう異
形断面とは断面の外周面に少なくとも1つの凹部を有す
る三角、六角、偏平、それらの中空等の断面形状をいう
が本発明で用いるフィラメントAの単糸の断面形状の代
表例を図3に示す。又このような風合、効果をもたせる
ためにはこれらの単糸の10本以上のフィラメントから
なることが好ましい。
【0013】次に本複合糸条は実質的に芯/鞘構造をと
るのはマルチフィラメントAが複合糸条の表層部に多く
存在することにより、布帛表面よりループが突出し易い
からである。また、ここでいう実質的に芯/鞘構造をと
るとは、複合糸条の或る界面で芯部と鞘部に即ちマルチ
フィラメントBとマルチフィラメントAとに二分されて
いる構造のみを意味しているのではなく、複合糸条全体
に特に境界面付近で両成分が混在しており、マルチフィ
ラメントBが主として芯部にマルチフィラメントAが主
として鞘部に配する構造をも意味しており、該複合糸条
の中心から半径1/3内は重量比率でマルチフィラメン
トBがマルチフィラメントAより大きく、複合糸条の表
面から半径1/3内はマルチフィラメントAがマルチフ
ィラメントBより大きいものは本発明の範囲内である。
尚、芯/鞘構造および前述したデニール比率の測定は該
複合糸条をエポキシ樹脂で固定し、ランダムに100回
断面を切断したものを光学顕微鏡で観測し、これより平
均値および状態を求める。又交絡度20〜100で絡合
されていることも必須である。交絡度が20未満ではマ
ルチフィラメント同士、しごかれると糸長差で糸が分離
し易く、工程通過性を著しく阻害する。逆に交絡度が1
00を越えると布帛でインターレース斑が目立つととも
に、マルチフィラメントAのモノフィラメントが切断し
、毛羽になることもあり好ましくないのである。
【0014】次に内層部を構成するマルチフィラメント
Bの断面は特に限定はないが、嵩高性をもたせるために
は中空糸を、ドライハンドをさらに強調するためにはマ
ルチフィラメントAと同様に断面の外周面に少なくとも
1つの凹部を有する異形断面糸なども好ましい。更に本
発明のポリエステル複合糸条にはマルチフィラメントA
成分とマルチフィラメントB成分の両方又は一方に必要
に応じ5−ナトリウムスルホン酸金属塩、イソフタル酸
などの共重合物や微粉不活性物質を含んだポリエステル
繊維を含んでもよい。
【0015】次に本複合糸条は加撚された状態であるの
も好ましい。しかしあまり強撚されると糸長差が発現し
難いので15000/(D)1/2 (T/m)以下が
好ましいが、ソフト、柔軟さを要求しない場合は必ずし
もこれに限定されない。
【0016】以下の実施例により本発明の構成および作
用効果を説明するが、本発明はもとより下記実施例によ
り制約を受けるものではない。
【0017】
【実施例】なお、本発明で実施した測定方法は以下の通
りである。
【0018】(1)破断伸度
JIS−L−1013(1981)に準じ、東洋ボール
ドウィン社製テンシロンを用いて試料長(ゲージ長)2
00mm、引張速度200mm/分でS−S曲線を測定
し、破断伸度を算定した。
【0019】(2)熱収縮率(SHW)、乾熱収縮率(
SHD)
JIS−L−1073に準じ、次によった。即ち適当な
枠周のラップリールで初荷重1/10g/デニールで8
回捲のカセをとり、カセに1/30g/デニールの荷重
をかけその長さL0 (mm)を測定する。ついでその
荷重をとり除き、1/1000g/デニールの荷重をか
けた状態でカセを沸騰水中に30分間浸漬する。その後
カセを沸騰水から取り出し、冷却後再び1/30gデニ
ールの荷重をかけてその時の長さL1 (mm)を測定
する。ついで60℃で30分乾燥した後1/1000g
/デニールの荷重をかけた状態で乾熱160℃のオーブ
ン中で熱処理する。ついで冷却後再び1/30g/デニ
ールの荷重をかけてそのときの長さL2 (mm)を測
定する。熱水収縮率(SHW)、乾熱収縮率(SHD)
は次式により算出される。
SHW=(L0 −L1 )×100÷L0 SHD
(L0 −L2 )×100÷L0 【0020】(
3) 交絡度
適当な長さの糸をとり出し、下端に1/10g/デニー
ルの荷重をかけて垂直につり下げる。ついで適当な針を
糸中につき出し、ゆっくり持ち上げ荷重が持ち上がるま
でに移動する距離L(cm)を100回測定し、これよ
り平均値L(cm)を求め、次式により算出する。
交絡度=100÷(2×L)
【0021】実施例1〜3比較例1〜8熱伸長マルチフ
ィラメントとして通常のポリエステルを常法で紡糸捲取
速度3000m/minで延伸−リラックス後のデニー
ル、DE、SHW、SHDが表1の物性になる如く、紡
糸吐出量、延伸倍率、リラックス率、リラックス温度、
セット時間を変更して得た、又熱収縮マルチフィラメン
トは市販の東洋紡株製、東洋紡エステルを使用し、図1
の延伸−リラックス機で加工した。ここでエアーノズル
7はファイバーガイド社製エアージェットFG−1を使
用し、目標の交絡度が得られる如くエアー圧、フィード
ローラー6とデリベリーローラー8の間フィード比を調
整した。使用した原糸物性と得られた複合糸条の糸質及
び該糸条を用いて通常の方法で撚糸後サイジング工程に
供し、次いでデシンを製織し染色仕上げした織物の風合
を判定した。又工程通過性として特に撚糸、捲返し、製
織性について判定し、工程通過性、風合の面から見た総
合判定を各々表1〜3に記載した。実施例1、2は本発
明の範囲内で風合、工程通過性とも良好であった。比較
例1は熱伸長マルチフィラメントのSHWが負で(熱伸
長する)サイジングでもループが発生し、製織でも開口
が悪く工程通過性に問題があった。比較例2は熱伸長マ
ルチフィラメントが収縮せず布帛表面に突出したループ
がなく、通常の異収縮混繊維を同じ風合しか得られなか
った。比較例3は熱伸長マルチフィラメントの破断伸度
が40%と低いために表面タッチは、やや粗硬で良くな
かった。比較例4は熱収縮マルチフィラメントの破断伸
度が50%と大きいため複合糸の破断伸度も大きく張力
による斑が発生し、布でもパッカリングが発生した。比
較例5は熱収縮マルチフィラメントの比率(複合糸デニ
ールに対する比率)が18%と低いために、複合糸の強
力が低く糸切れが発生するとともに、風合面でもはり、
腰がなく満足のいくものではなかった。比較例6は逆に
熱収縮フィラメント比率が90%と大きいために布帛表
面に突出する熱収縮フィラメントが少なく、ふくらみ、
バルキー感に劣ったものであった。
比較例7は交絡度が低いために糸が分離し工程通過性が
悪かった。比較例8は交絡度が130と高いために布帛
にインターレースマークと称するモアレ斑が発生した。
【0022】
【表1】
【表2】
【表3】
【0023】D:トータルデニール
Fil:フィラメント数
断面形状:△ 図3、1の三角断面、○ 丸断面布
帛風合:10名による触感官能評価による4段階評価◎
ソフト感、はり、腰、ドレープ感ともすべて良好○
ソフト感に欠ける
△ ソフト感、ドレープ感に欠ける
× ごわごわしている
工程通過性:織機稼動率
◎ 98%以上
○ 95%以上
△ 90%以上
× 90%未満
総合判定:布帛風合、工程通過性について判定◎ 共
に良好
△ どちらか一方もしくは両方に欠点がある× ど
ちらか一方もしくは両方が非常に悪い【0024】実施
例3〜7、比較例9〜17極限粘度0.63ポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートを常法によりホール数18の紡糸ノズ
ルを用いて紡速および吐出量を変更し表4の未延伸糸を
得た。つづいて表5、6表に示す条件にて混繊糸をつく
り、通常の方法で製織、染色仕上げを実施した。この間
、工程通過性として延伸操業性、リラックス熱処理操業
性、製織等の後加工通過性をまた織物風合、外観につい
て評価した結果も合わせて表5、6に示す。混繊糸の作
成については図1に示す延伸、リラックス、混繊機を使
用した。交絡度の調製についてはフィーバーガイド社製
エアージェットFG−1を使用し、エアー圧および処理
張力を調製により実施した。実施例3〜7は本発明の範
囲内で、工程通過性、織かつ織物外観、風合いが優れた
ものであった。比較例10、11は延伸後の破断伸度が
本発明外であり、比較例10は延伸後の破断伸度が高く
、延伸時に太さ斑の発生が見られ、風合および織物外見
の均一感で満足しうるものではなかった。また比較例1
1は延伸後の破断伸度が低くかつ△nも本発明外である
が、延伸操業性が悪く、それにともない工程通過性も低
下をきたした。比較例12、13はリラックス熱処理温
度が本発明外であり、比較例12はリラックス熱処理温
度が低く自発伸長性に欠け織物風合は満足できるもので
はなかった。また比較例13はリラックス熱処理温度が
高く、ドッフィング停台時に溶断糸切れが発生し、織物
風合も若干不満足なものであった。比較例14、15は
リラックス熱処理時のオーバーフィード率が本発明外で
あり、比較例14は自発伸長性の不足により風合が満足
いくものではなかった。
比較例15はオーバーフィード率が高く、リラックス熱
処理操業性に低下をきたし、さらに混繊糸にループが多
く後加工通過性、織物風合に欠けるものであった。比較
例16、17は自発伸長性マルチフィラメントと熱処理
性マルチフィラメントの混繊デニール比が本発明外であ
り、比較例16は熱収縮性マルチフィラメントの比率が
高く、織物のソフト感に欠けるものであった。また比較
例17は熱収縮マルチフィラメントの比率が低く張り腰
に欠けるものであった。
【0025】
【表4】
【0026】
【表5】
【表6】
【0027】Den:トータルデニールfil:フィラ
メント数
◎ ○
△ × 延伸操業性:延伸糸切率
2%以下 5%以下 10%以下 11
%以上リラックス 操業性:リラックス 糸切率
2%以下 5%以下 10%以下 11%以上
後工程通過性:織機稼動率 98%以上
95%以上 90%以上 90%未満織物風合い:
10名による触感官能評価による4段階評価
◎ ソフト感、張り、腰、ドレープ感ともすべて良好
○ ソフト感に欠ける
△ ソフト感、ドレープ感に欠ける
× ごわごわしている
織物外観:検反機にて織物のイラツキ、ストリーク、そ
の他の欠点を4段階に評価した
◎ ナ シ
○ わずかに目立つ
△ 目立つ
× 著しく目立つ
総 合:工程操業性・通過性及び織物風合・外観
の総合的な判定
◎ すべて良好
△ 一部欠点がある
× 一部非常に悪い
【0028】
【発明の効果】このように本発明のポリエステル複合糸
条は従来の異収縮混繊維糸(熱伸長糸も含む)に比べて
ソフト、柔軟性、且つドライタッチと適度な張り、腰、
ドレープ性を有し、しかも工程通過性が優れているとい
う顕著な効果を奏するのである。
【0029】Detailed Description of the Invention [0001] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention provides a method for producing a polyester composite yarn for silk-like woven and knitted fabrics that is soft and flexible, has a dry touch, and has appropriate elasticity, elasticity, and drape properties. Regarding. [0002] Polyester multifilament has hitherto been used in a variety of applications, including clothing and industrial materials, taking advantage of its excellent properties. Silk-like texture is one of the targets for clothing applications, and various companies are investigating it, and in some fields, it has been found that silk-like texture has surpassed that of silk. For example, composite yarns consisting of a plurality of multifilaments with different heat shrinkage properties are widely used because they exhibit excellent properties and textures such as fullness, bulk, and warm feel. However, if all the multifilaments that make up the yarn shrink due to heat, due to the constraining force of the texture of the knitted fabric, it is not possible to ensure a sufficient difference in the shrinkage rate of the yarn, and the knitted fabric becomes stiff due to the shrinkage of the yarn. Therefore, countermeasures have been taken, such as reducing the basis weight to allow for shrinkage, and increasing the alkali weight loss rate to maintain the texture. However, filaments with a high heat shrinkage rate generally harden when heat treated, making it impossible to obtain a filament that is fully satisfactory in terms of feel. On the other hand, mixed yarns of polyester filaments that are elongated and filaments that are shrunk by heat treatment are also known, such as those disclosed in JP-A-55-62240, JP-A-56-112537, and JP-A-60-2.
There are publications such as Publication No. 8515. Although these yarns had a much softer and more flexible texture than the above-mentioned shrink yarns, the loops made of elongated and protruding filaments gave a slimy feel, and heat treatment caused large yarn length differences. As a result, the threads separate, causing problems in handling in subsequent processes. [0003] The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks of polyester filaments, and has softness, flexibility, elegant dry touch, appropriate elasticity, waist, and drapability. The object of the present invention is to provide a novel method for producing a polyester composite yarn that does not have any problems in passing through subsequent processes. Means for Solving the Problems The present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the above problems. That is, the elongation at break of the multifilament drawn yarn is 30 to 45%, Δn0.
10 to 0.14 polyester multifilament using a non-contact heater to form formulas (1) and (2) of formula [A] below.
Heater temperature T (°C) that simultaneously satisfies the formula and 20~
Polyester multifilament A satisfying the following formula [B] and polyester multifilament B were subjected to relaxing heat treatment at an overfeed rate of 60%, and A/B = 20 to 80%/80 to 20% (denier The degree of entanglement is 20 to 100 pieces/m so that
This is a method for producing a latent bulky polyester composite yarn for woven or knitted fabrics, which is characterized by an interlacing treatment. [A]75log {(D×Vy)1/2 /HL}+
4.7(Vy)1/2 ≧T≧25log {(D×V
y)1/2/HL}+4.7(Vy)1/2...
(1) T≦Tm-10...(2) D: Denier after relaxation V: Relaxation trading roller speed (m/min) HL:
Relaxed non-contact heater length (m) Tm: Melting point (°C) Tg: Secondary transition temperature (°C) [B] SHW (A) ≧0%, SHD (A) ≦0% SHW
(B)≧0% SHD(B)-SHD(A)≧5% DE(A)≧50% SHW: Hot water (100°C) shrinkage rate (%) SHD: Dry heat (
(160°C) Shrinkage rate (%) DE: Breaking elongation (%) [0005] The method for producing the polyester composite yarn of the present invention will be explained. A schematic side view of the apparatus for producing polyester composite yarn of the present invention is illustrated in FIG. To produce polyester multifilament A with excellent spontaneous elongation, first, an undrawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 1500 to 4000 m/min is stretched at a stretching temperature of Tg to Tg + 20°C and a breaking elongation of 30 to 45%, Δ It may be stretched within the range of n0.10 to 0.14. If the spinning speed is less than 1500 m to min, the physical properties after stretching will be unstable and thickness unevenness will become large, which is not preferable. Moreover, if it exceeds 4000 m/min, the heat shrinkage rate after stretching will be low and the spontaneous elongation will be low, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric will not be the desired one. Preferably 2000-4
000m/min. The stretching temperature is preferably higher than Tg for stretching stability, and at temperatures higher than Tg+20°C, crystallization progresses and spontaneous extensibility decreases. Further, the stretching temperature is important for the expression of spontaneous elongation, but in terms of operability such as thread breakage during stretching, it is necessary to set the elongation at break to 30% or more. If the elongation at break is 45% or more, thread unevenness may occur, which is not preferable. In total, it is necessary to keep Δn in the range of 0.10 to 0.14, and outside this range, the stability of spontaneous elongation due to relaxing heat treatment is lacking. Next, relaxing heat treatment using a non-contact heater that gives spontaneous elongation is performed at a heater temperature T (
℃) and an overfeed rate of 20 to 60%. 75log {(D×Vy)1/2/HL}+4.7
(Vy)1/2 ≧T≧25log {(D×Vy)1
/2 /HL}+4.7(Vy)1/2...(1) T≦Tm-10...(2) D: Denier after relaxation V: Relaxed trading roller speed (m/min) HL:
Relax non-contact heater length (m) Tm: Melting point (°C) Tg: Secondary transition temperature (°C) The inventors discovered the relationship expressed by equation (1). (1) If the value is higher than the range of formula, the spontaneous extensibility will decrease due to the progress of crystallization,
Moreover, if it is low, the expression of spontaneous elongation will be weak. Also (1)
It is necessary to satisfy formula and formula (2) at the same time, but if the heater temperature is set to (Tm-10)°C or higher, the multifilament will melt due to the heat of the heater when the doffing is stopped, and the multifilament will be restarted. The starting performance is reduced and it cannot be used industrially. Furthermore, relax trading roller speed V
Preferably, y is 10 to 1500 m/min, and the relax non-contact type heater length HL is 0.1 to 2 m. [0006] The overfeed rate is 20 to 60 in order to express spontaneous elongation and stabilize the operability of relaxing heat treatment.
% is good. It should be noted that if the heater is a contact type heater, the yarn tension at the inlet of the heater will be insufficient due to the multifilament running resistance, resulting in roller wrapping and yarn breakage, so it is necessary to use a non-contact type heater. This polyester multifilament A is intertwined with a polyester multifilament different from the polyester multifilament A so that the denier ratio becomes 20 to 80%/80 to 20%, and the degree of entanglement is 20 to 100 co/m. Here, different polyester multifilaments include, for example, SHW. S
Refers to those that have at least one different heat shrinkage characteristic such as HD. [0007] Through dyeing and setting treatment, due to the difference in yarn length,
In order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with good swelling, tension, elasticity, and bulkiness, the polyester multifilament B component should have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 5% or more and a 160° C. dry heat shrinkage rate of 7% or more. If both are lower than this, a sufficient yarn length difference will not be obtained and a woven or knitted fabric with a good texture will not be obtained. Note that the boiling water shrinkage rate is preferably 5 to 60%, and the 160°C dry heat shrinkage rate is preferably 7 to 80%. Of course, the polyester multifilament may be a so-called thick-and-thin yarn or a spontaneously extensible yarn, but in the case of the former, the shrinkage rate in hot water is 5 to 30%, and in the case of the latter, the shrinkage rate in dry heat at 160°C is 0%. It is sufficient that the difference in elongation from multifilament A is at least 5%. It is also important to mix the material so that the denier ratio is 20 to 80%; if the spontaneously extensible polyester multifilament is less than 20%, it will swell and lack bulkiness, and if it exceeds 80%, the tension will be poor. , it becomes something that has no waist. The degree of entanglement is 20 to 100 to obtain ease of handling in twisting, warping, and weaving, and to obtain a uniform appearance in woven or knitted fabrics.
It is necessary to set it to m. If it is less than 20 pieces/m, polyester multifilament A and polyester multifilament B are likely to separate, resulting in poor handling in the next step. If it exceeds 100 pieces/m, a uniform appearance cannot be obtained in woven or knitted fabrics. Polyester multifilament A with the above structure provides excellent handling, spontaneous elongation, and productivity.
A composite yarn of polyester multifilament B and polyester multifilament B can be obtained. Next, the composite yarn obtained by the manufacturing method of the present invention will be described. FIG. 2 is a model diagram after the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is heat-treated to develop a yarn length difference. In FIG. 2, A is a multifilament that mainly constitutes the sheath portion, and has been substantially elongated by high-temperature heat treatment (multifilament after spontaneous elongation). B is a multifilament constituting the core, which is a multifilament that has been shrunk by heat treatment (multifilament after heat shrinkage). First, the heat shrinkage characteristics of the constituent multifilament, which is the most important requirement in the present invention, will be described. The multifilament A constituting the polyester composite yarn of the present invention has a small shrinkage rate difference with the multifilament B during normal sizing and other processes, and shows substantial shrinkage behavior. For this reason, even when creating the same yarn length difference in the fabric, even if sizing is done at the yarn stage, the yarn length difference (bulges, loops, etc.) does not appear much, even compared to ordinary different shrinkage blended yarns that are all heat-shrinkable. During weaving, handling and weaving properties are much better. In other words, the yarn length difference (
Naturally, when loops develop, the loops rub against each other during beaming and weaving, causing them to get caught in guides, combs, etc., or openings become poor, significantly reducing process passability. Furthermore, when ordinary heat-shrinkable multifilament undergoes heat treatment during sizing, etc., the heat set is almost fixed, and even when subjected to high-temperature heat treatment of about 160 to 180 degrees Celsius during final setting, the yarn length difference is not much greater than that at the initial heat setting. However, by including multifilaments like the composite yarn of the present invention, which shrink in hot water but elongate in high-temperature heat treatment equivalent to final set, multifilaments can be formed by finishing at a higher temperature than the shrunk fabric surface as a whole. Filament A protrudes in a loop shape, providing a soft and flexible touch as if it were the surface of a peach. For this purpose, it is sufficient that SHW(A)≧0% and SHD(A)≦0%. SHD for further swelling and bulkiness
It is appropriate that (B)-SHD(A)≧5%; if it is less than 5%, swelling and bulkiness will be poor and it will be excluded from the present invention. However, if it is too large, the protruding loops from the surface will be too large, which tends to cause problems such as "shininess" when ironing, etc., so it is preferably 50% or less. Also, for the same reason, SHW (
A) is preferably 5% or less, and SHD(A) is preferably -15% or more. Next, the reason why the elongation at break of multifilament A is 50% or more is to obtain a soft and flexible texture. Generally, in order to obtain a soft feel with polyester, it is easier to obtain a filament with a small SHW and a large elongation at break. As described in detail above, it is the spontaneously elongated multifilaments that form loops and cover the surface of the fabric, and the touch of these multifilaments determines the touch of the fabric. However, if the elongation at break is too large, handling becomes poor, so it is less than 100%, more preferably 80%.
The following is good. Next, the elongation at break of multifilament B is 4.
The content is preferably 0% or less because it prevents yarn unevenness from occurring due to elongation of the composite yarn in subsequent processes such as winding, knitting, and weaving. Furthermore, this is to prevent problems such as the knees coming off in the product after it is made into a fabric. Furthermore, the breaking strength of the composite yarn is also substantially dependent on the heat-shrinkable multifilament, so the breaking strength of the heat-shrinkable multifilament must be at least 4 g/denier and at least 20% of the denier ratio of the composite yarn. Of course, if the breaking strength is high, the proportion of multifilament B may be slightly lower, but if it is less than 20%, the shrinkage force of multifilament B will be small and the bulge due to the difference in yarn length will not be expressed, so it is excluded from the present invention. still,
The hot water shrinkage rate and the 160°C dry heat shrinkage rate of the multifilament B are preferably 5 to 60% and 7 to 80%, respectively. [0011] The multifilament B may also be a so-called thick-and-thin yarn having thickness unevenness in the fiber axis direction. However, in that case, the hot water shrinkage rate may be 5 to 30%. Thick and thin yarn has an orientation degree (△n) of 1 in the thin part, considering the retention of yarn physical properties after post-processing.
5 to 60×10 −3 or more, more preferably 160×1
0-3 or more is good. Generally, when thick and thin yarn is dyed, it exhibits a difference in shading, but the difference in shading is too strong.However, by heat-treating the blended yarn of this invention, the thick and thin yarn is in the inner layer, and the multifilament A is placed on the outer layer, and the excessively strong shade difference of Thick and Thin yarn is hidden by Multifilament A yarn to create a natural color tone difference. Next, the multifilament A must be composed of single filament denier of 3 denier or less. If it exceeds 3 denier, the elongation at break is large and the texture becomes rough and hard even if the Young's modulus is low, so it is excluded from the present invention. However, if the filament is too thin, even filaments with irregular cross-sections, which will be described later, will become stiff and lose their stiffness, so a denier of 0.2 denier or more is preferable. However, it may be mixed with 3 deniers or more (denier mix), as long as it has an average of 3 deniers or less. Further, it is preferable that the filament has an irregular cross section having at least one recess on the outer peripheral surface of the cross section. In particular, filaments with a high breaking elongation such as the composite yarn of the present invention are soft but tend to feel slimy, so by making the cross-sectional shape irregular, the number of point contacts between the filaments increases, resulting in a soft, dry touch. . Here, the irregular cross-section refers to a triangular, hexagonal, oblate, hollow, etc. cross-sectional shape having at least one recess on the outer peripheral surface of the cross-section. Shown in Figure 3. In order to have such a texture and effect, it is preferable that the fiber is composed of 10 or more filaments of these single yarns. Next, the present composite yarn has a substantially core/sheath structure because the multifilaments A are present in large quantities in the surface layer of the composite yarn, so that the loops tend to protrude from the surface of the fabric. Furthermore, the term "substantially having a core/sheath structure" as used herein means only a structure in which the composite yarn is divided into a core part and a sheath part, that is, multifilament B and multifilament A, at a certain interface. It also means a structure in which both components are mixed throughout the composite yarn, especially near the interface, and multifilament B is mainly arranged in the core and multifilament A is mainly arranged in the sheath. Multifilament B is larger than multifilament A in terms of weight ratio within 1/3 radius from the center of the composite yarn, and multifilament A is larger than multifilament B within 1/3 radius from the surface of the composite yarn. It is within the scope of the invention. The core/sheath structure and the above-mentioned denier ratio are measured by fixing the composite yarn with epoxy resin, cutting the cross section randomly 100 times, observing it with an optical microscope, and determining the average value and condition from this. It is also essential that they are entangled with a degree of entanglement of 20 to 100. When the degree of entanglement is less than 20, when the multifilaments are squeezed, the threads tend to separate due to the difference in thread length, which significantly impedes processability. On the other hand, the degree of confounding is 1
If it exceeds 00, interlacing spots will become noticeable on the fabric, and the monofilaments of multifilament A may break, resulting in fluff, which is not preferable. Next, the cross section of the multifilament B constituting the inner layer part is not particularly limited, but in order to provide bulkiness, hollow fibers are used, and in order to further emphasize the dry hand, the cross section of the multifilament B is similar to that of the multifilament A. Also preferred are irregular cross-section threads having at least one recess on the outer circumferential surface. Furthermore, the polyester composite yarn of the present invention contains multifilament A.
If necessary, both or one of the component and the multifilament B component may contain a polyester fiber containing a copolymer of 5-sodium sulfonic acid metal salt, isophthalic acid, etc., or a fine powder inert substance. Next, it is also preferable that the present composite yarn is in a twisted state. However, if the yarn is twisted too strongly, it is difficult to create a difference in yarn length, so the yarn length is preferably 15,000/(D)1/2 (T/m) or less, but it is not necessarily limited to this when softness and flexibility are not required. The structure and effects of the present invention will be explained with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. [Example] The measurement method carried out in the present invention is as follows. (1) Elongation at break According to JIS-L-1013 (1981), sample length (gauge length) 2 using Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin Co., Ltd.
The SS curve was measured at a tensile speed of 00 mm and a tensile speed of 200 mm/min, and the elongation at break was calculated. (2) Heat shrinkage rate (SHW), dry heat shrinkage rate (
SHD) According to JIS-L-1073, the following was carried out. In other words, with a wrap reel of appropriate frame circumference, the initial load is 1/10g/denier and it is 8.
Take the winding skein, apply a load of 1/30 g/denier to the skein, and measure its length L0 (mm). Then, the load was removed, and the skein was immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes with a load of 1/1000 g/denier applied. Thereafter, the skein was removed from the boiling water, and after cooling, a load of 1/30 g denier was applied again to measure the length L1 (mm). Then, after drying at 60℃ for 30 minutes, 1/1000g
Heat treatment is performed in a dry heat oven at 160° C. with a load of /denier applied. Then, after cooling, a load of 1/30 g/denier was applied again to measure the length L2 (mm). Hot water shrinkage (SHW), dry heat shrinkage (SHD)
is calculated by the following formula. SHW=(L0-L1)×100÷L0 SHD
(L0 - L2 )×100÷L0 0020】(
3) Degree of entanglement Take out a thread of appropriate length and hang it vertically by applying a load of 1/10 g/denier to the lower end. Next, a suitable needle is inserted into the thread, and the needle is slowly lifted to measure the distance L (cm) traveled until the load is lifted 100 times. From this, the average value L (cm) is determined and calculated using the following formula. Degree of entanglement = 100 ÷ (2 × L) Examples 1 to 3 Comparative Examples 1 to 8 Heat-stretched multifilament made of ordinary polyester was drawn in a conventional manner at a winding speed of 3000 m/min. Denier after relaxation: The spinning discharge rate, stretching ratio, relaxation rate, relaxation temperature,
The heat-shrinkable multifilament obtained by changing the setting time was commercially available, Toyobo Ester manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., and Figure 1
The film was processed using a stretch-relaxation machine. Here, Air Jet FG-1 manufactured by Fiber Guide Co., Ltd. was used as the air nozzle 7, and the air pressure and the feed ratio between the feed roller 6 and the delivery roller 8 were adjusted so as to obtain the target degree of entanglement. The physical properties of the raw yarn used, the yarn quality of the obtained composite yarn, and the yarn were subjected to a sizing process after twisting in a conventional manner, and then the texture of the fabric, which was woven with deshine and dyed and finished, was evaluated. In addition, as for process passability, the yarn twisting, winding and weaving properties were evaluated in particular, and the comprehensive evaluations from the aspects of process passability and texture are listed in Tables 1 to 3, respectively. Examples 1 and 2 had good texture and process passability within the scope of the present invention. In Comparative Example 1, the SHW of the heat-stretched multifilament was negative, loops were generated even during sizing (heat-stretched), and openings were poor during weaving, causing problems in process passability. In Comparative Example 2, the heat-stretched multifilament did not shrink and there were no protruding loops on the surface of the fabric, and only the same texture could be obtained from ordinary differentially shrinkable mixed fibers. In Comparative Example 3, the elongation at break of the heat-stretched multifilament was as low as 40%, so the surface touch was somewhat rough and hard, which was not good. In Comparative Example 4, the elongation at break of the heat-shrinkable multifilament was as high as 50%, so the elongation at break of the composite yarn was also large, causing unevenness due to tension, and puckering also occurred in the fabric. In Comparative Example 5, the ratio of heat-shrinkable multifilament (ratio to composite yarn denier) was as low as 18%, so the strength of the composite yarn was low and yarn breakage occurred, and the texture was also stiff.
There was no waist and it was not satisfying. On the contrary, in Comparative Example 6, the ratio of heat-shrinkable filaments was as high as 90%, so there were few heat-shrinkable filaments protruding from the surface of the fabric, causing bulges and
It had a poor bulky feel. In Comparative Example 7, the degree of entanglement was low, so the threads separated and the processability was poor. In Comparative Example 8, since the degree of entanglement was as high as 130, moiré spots called interlace marks occurred on the fabric. [Table 1] [Table 2] [Table 3] D: Total denier Fil: Number of filaments Cross-sectional shape: △ Triangular cross-section in Figure 3, 1, ○ Round cross-section Fabric texture: Tactile sensory evaluation by 10 people 4-level evaluation ◎
Soft feel, firmness, waist, and drape feel are all good.
Lack of soft feel△ Lack of soft feel, drape feeling Judgment: ◎ Both are good △ One or both have defects × One or both are very bad [0024] Examples 3 to 7, Comparative Examples 9 to 17 Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 was prepared by a conventional method. The undrawn yarn shown in Table 4 was obtained by using a spinning nozzle with 18 holes and changing the spinning speed and discharge amount. Subsequently, mixed fiber yarns were produced under the conditions shown in Tables 5 and 6, and were woven and dyed in a conventional manner. During this time, the process passability was evaluated for stretching workability, relaxing heat treatment workability, post-processing passability such as weaving, as well as textile texture and appearance, and the results are also shown in Tables 5 and 6. A drawing, relaxing, and blending machine shown in FIG. 1 was used to create the mixed fiber yarn. The degree of entanglement was adjusted using Air Jet FG-1 manufactured by Fever Guide Co., Ltd., and the air pressure and processing tension were adjusted. Examples 3 to 7 were within the scope of the present invention and had excellent process passability, weave, woven fabric appearance, and texture. In Comparative Examples 10 and 11, the elongation at break after stretching was outside the scope of the present invention, and in Comparative Example 10, the elongation at break after stretching was high, uneven thickness was observed during stretching, and the texture and appearance of the fabric were not uniform. It wasn't something I could feel satisfied with. Also, comparative example 1
Sample No. 1 had a low elongation at break after stretching and Δn was also outside the scope of the present invention, but its stretching operability was poor, and process passability was accordingly reduced. In Comparative Examples 12 and 13, the relaxation heat treatment temperature was outside the scope of the present invention, and in Comparative Example 12, the relaxation heat treatment temperature was low and the fabric lacked spontaneous elongation and had an unsatisfactory woven texture. In addition, in Comparative Example 13, the relaxation heat treatment temperature was high, fusing yarn breakage occurred at the time of doffing and stopping, and the texture of the fabric was also slightly unsatisfactory. In Comparative Examples 14 and 15, the overfeed rate during relaxing heat treatment was outside the scope of the present invention, and in Comparative Example 14, the feel was unsatisfactory due to lack of spontaneous elongation. Comparative Example 15 had a high overfeed rate, resulting in a decrease in ease of operation during the relaxing heat treatment, and furthermore, the mixed yarn had many loops, resulting in poor post-processing passability and fabric texture. In Comparative Examples 16 and 17, the mixed fiber denier ratio of spontaneously extensible multifilament and heat-treatable multifilament is outside the invention, and in Comparative Example 16, the ratio of heat-shrinkable multifilament is high, and the fabric lacks a soft feel. there were. Furthermore, Comparative Example 17 had a low ratio of heat-shrinkable multifilament and lacked elasticity. [Table 4] [Table 5] [Table 6] [0027] Den: Total denier fil: Number of filaments
◎ ○
△ × Drawing operability: drawing thread cut rate
2% or less 5% or less 10% or less 11
% or more relaxed Operability: relaxed Thread trimming rate
2% or less 5% or less 10% or less 11% or more Post-process passability: Loom operation rate 98% or more
95% or more 90% or more Less than 90% Fabric texture:
4-level evaluation based on tactile sensory evaluation by 10 people ◎ Soft feel, tension, waist, and drape feeling are all good ○ Lack of soft feel △ Lack of soft feel and drape feeling Irregularities, streaks, and other defects were evaluated on a four-level scale ◎ None ○ Slightly noticeable △ Conspicuous × Extremely noticeable Overall: Comprehensive evaluation of process operability, passability, fabric texture, and appearance ◎ All good △ [Effects of the invention] As described above, the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is softer and more flexible than the conventional differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn (including heat-stretched yarn). Sexy, dry touch, moderate tension, waist,
It has the remarkable effect of having good drapability and excellent process passability. [0029]
【図1】本発明における製造装置の一例を示す略側面図
。FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of a manufacturing apparatus according to the present invention.
【図2】本発明により得られた複合糸条を熱処理して糸
長差を発現させた側面図。FIG. 2 is a side view of the composite yarn obtained according to the present invention that has been heat-treated to develop a yarn length difference.
【図3】本発明におけるフィラメントの単糸の断面形状
の代表例。FIG. 3 is a representative example of the cross-sectional shape of a single filament in the present invention.
A:熱伸長マルチフィラメント B:熱収縮マルチフィラメント C:本発明のポリエステル複合糸条 3:ホットローラー 5:非接触ヒーター 7:エアージェットノズル A: Heat-stretched multifilament B: Heat shrink multifilament C: Polyester composite yarn of the present invention 3: Hot roller 5: Non-contact heater 7: Air jet nozzle
Claims (1)
が30〜45%、△n0.10〜0.14のポリエステ
ルマルチフィラメントを非接触ヒーターにて下記〔A〕
式の(1)および(2)を同時に満足するヒーター温度
T(℃)かつ、20〜60%のオーバーフィード率でリ
ラックス熱処理を施し、かくして得た下記〔B〕式を満
足するポリエステルマルチフィラメントAと、ポリエス
テルマルチフィラメントBとをA/B=20〜80%/
80〜20%(デニール比)となるように合わせて交絡
度20〜100コ/mで交絡処理することを特徴とする
織編物用潜在嵩高性ポリエステル複合糸条の製造法。 〔A〕75log{(D×Vy )1/2 /HL}+
4.7(Vy )1/2 ≧T≧25log{(D×V
y )1/2 /HL}+4.7(Vy )1/2 …
(1)T≦Tm−10…(2) D:リラックス後デニール V:リラックス取引ローラー速度(m/min)HL:
リラックス非接触式ヒーター長(m)Tm:融点(℃) Tg:2次転移点温度(℃) 〔B〕SHW(A)≧0%、SHD(A)≦0%SHW
(B)≧0% SHD(B)−SHD(A)≧5% DE(A)≧50% SHW:熱水(100℃)収縮率(%)SHD:乾熱(
160℃)収縮率(%)DE:破断伸度(%)[Claim 1] A polyester multifilament with a multifilament drawn yarn having a breaking elongation of 30 to 45% and Δn of 0.10 to 0.14 as described below [A] using a non-contact heater.
Polyester multifilament A satisfying the following formula [B] obtained by performing relaxing heat treatment at a heater temperature T (°C) that simultaneously satisfies formulas (1) and (2) and an overfeed rate of 20 to 60%. and polyester multifilament B at A/B=20-80%/
A method for producing a latent bulky polyester composite yarn for woven or knitted fabrics, characterized in that the yarn is entangled at a degree of entanglement of 20 to 100 threads/m so that the denier ratio is 80 to 20% (denier ratio). [A]75log {(D×Vy)1/2 /HL}+
4.7(Vy)1/2 ≧T≧25log {(D×V
y)1/2/HL}+4.7(Vy)1/2...
(1) T≦Tm-10...(2) D: Denier after relaxation V: Relaxation trading roller speed (m/min) HL:
Relaxed non-contact heater length (m) Tm: Melting point (°C) Tg: Secondary transition temperature (°C) [B] SHW (A) ≧0%, SHD (A) ≦0% SHW
(B)≧0% SHD(B)-SHD(A)≧5% DE(A)≧50% SHW: Hot water (100°C) shrinkage rate (%) SHD: Dry heat (
160℃) Shrinkage rate (%) DE: Breaking elongation (%)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP3170559A JPH081014B2 (en) | 1991-06-14 | 1991-06-14 | Method for producing latent bulky polyester composite yarns for woven and knitted fabrics |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP3170559A JPH081014B2 (en) | 1991-06-14 | 1991-06-14 | Method for producing latent bulky polyester composite yarns for woven and knitted fabrics |
Related Parent Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP63218941A Division JPH01250425A (en) | 1987-11-16 | 1988-08-31 | Latently bulky polyester conjugated yarn for woven and knitted fabric and production thereof |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH04352836A true JPH04352836A (en) | 1992-12-07 |
| JPH081014B2 JPH081014B2 (en) | 1996-01-10 |
Family
ID=15907101
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP3170559A Expired - Fee Related JPH081014B2 (en) | 1991-06-14 | 1991-06-14 | Method for producing latent bulky polyester composite yarns for woven and knitted fabrics |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH081014B2 (en) |
Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS50148651A (en) * | 1974-05-17 | 1975-11-28 | ||
| JPS5493120A (en) * | 1977-12-26 | 1979-07-24 | Teijin Ltd | Production of crimped yarn of self-stretching polyester |
| JPS6028515A (en) * | 1983-07-22 | 1985-02-13 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Conjugated polyester filament |
-
1991
- 1991-06-14 JP JP3170559A patent/JPH081014B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS50148651A (en) * | 1974-05-17 | 1975-11-28 | ||
| JPS5493120A (en) * | 1977-12-26 | 1979-07-24 | Teijin Ltd | Production of crimped yarn of self-stretching polyester |
| JPS6028515A (en) * | 1983-07-22 | 1985-02-13 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Conjugated polyester filament |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPH081014B2 (en) | 1996-01-10 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| JP4497648B2 (en) | Composite elastic yarn and method for producing the same | |
| JP3275478B2 (en) | Composite yarn for knitted fabric | |
| JP4123646B2 (en) | Polyester fiber yarn and fabric | |
| JPH0881854A (en) | Manufacture of woven fabric | |
| JPH04352836A (en) | Production of latently bulky polyester conjugate yarn for woven and knit fabric | |
| JPH09143827A (en) | Polyester-based multifilament composite yarn and woven or knitted fabric using the same | |
| JP2737999B2 (en) | Polyester composite yarn for woven or knitted fabric | |
| JP2770414B2 (en) | Polyester composite yarn for woven or knitted fabric | |
| JP2770412B2 (en) | Composite multifilament | |
| JP2738013B2 (en) | Latent bulky thermoplastic synthetic fiber composite yarn for woven or knitted fabric | |
| JPH0418051B2 (en) | ||
| JPH0978382A (en) | Polyester composite yarn | |
| JPH038824A (en) | Polyester conjugated yarn | |
| JPH07138834A (en) | Bulky conjugate yarn for woven or knit fabric | |
| JP2833052B2 (en) | Polyester composite yarn | |
| JP3508326B2 (en) | Polyester-based multifilament composite yarn and polyester-based composite fiber woven / knitted fabric using the yarn | |
| JPH0424234A (en) | Bulky conjugate yarn for woven and knit fabric | |
| JP2770423B2 (en) | Latent bulky polyester composite yarn for woven or knitted fabric | |
| JP2770415B2 (en) | Latent bulky polyester composite yarn for woven or knitted fabric | |
| JPH07243138A (en) | Latent-bulky polyester conjugate filament for woven fabric | |
| JP2000144541A (en) | Polyester fiber | |
| JP3484822B2 (en) | Polyester multifilament composite yarn and method for producing the same | |
| JPH03119132A (en) | Bulky composite yarn | |
| JPH02191734A (en) | Latent bulky polyester interlaced yarn for woven fabric and knitted fabric and production thereof | |
| JPH04333634A (en) | Conjugate polyester yarn |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| LAPS | Cancellation because of no payment of annual fees |