JPH0544137A - Method for producing suede-like fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Purpose] While maintaining the resilience and ground tightness of a suede-like woven fabric obtained by the conventional method of processing ultrafine fibers with a urethane resin, rubber was a drawback of conventional urethane resin processed products. Provided is a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric, which solves the problems such as feeling, low light fastness, and migration and transfer phenomenon of dye. [Structure] A polyester / polyamide composite fiber multifilament yarn capable of being made into ultrafine fibers having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or less, and a polyester multifilament yarn having a single fiber finer than the ultrafine fibers and having a boiling water shrinkage. In the process of weaving the composite yarn with 25% or more into the warp yarn and / or the weft yarn and then finishing the raw fabric, the fabric surface area is shrunk by 30% or more and the amount of the polyester / polyamide composite fiber constituting the composite yarn is small. A method for producing a suede-like woven fabric in which a part is divided.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric having resilience and ground tightness.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for obtaining a suede-like cloth, a polyurethane resin is applied to a non-woven fabric or a woven or knitted fabric, and extra fine fibers are exposed on the surface by raising a needle cloth or buffing, and an extra fine nap having a lighting effect is provided. A method of obtaining a cloth is adopted. With this method, you can obtain a material with a surface touch that is close to natural suede, but since you use urethane resin, it becomes a rubber-like texture with a soft texture, and the dyed cloth has poor light fastness and can be ironed. There is a problem that the dye migrates and causes dye transfer.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to maintain good resilience and tightness of a suede-like woven fabric obtained by the conventional method of applying a urethane resin to ultrafine fibers, and to improve the urethane resin treatment. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric, which solves the problems of rubber-like feel, low light fastness, and dye transfer transfer phenomenon which were disadvantages.

[0004]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the inventors of the present invention cannot solve the fundamental problem by the conventional method of applying the urethane resin to the ultrafine fiber woven fabric. I think that there is, without using urethane resin,
We searched for various methods that give the same suede-like surface touch, repulsion, and ground tightening sensation to those obtained by applying urethane resin processing.
As a result, by designing the heat shrinkage characteristics of the composite yarn containing the ultrafinely splittable composite fiber and the heat shrinkage behavior in the textile finishing process, the same effect as the urethane resin processing can be obtained, and the above-mentioned urethane resin processing The inventors have found that the drawbacks of (1) are solved and arrived at the present invention.

Thus, according to the present invention, a polyester / polyamide composite (conjugate) capable of forming ultrafine fibers.
Polyester multifilament constituting the composite yarn when a woven fabric is manufactured by using a composite yarn of a multifilament yarn of fibers and a polyester multifilament yarn having a finer monofilament finer than the ultrafine fiber as warp and / or weft The yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of 25% or more, and the polyester / polyamide composite fiber multifilament yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or less. For 30% or more and splitting at least a part of the polyester / polyamide composite fiber constituting the composite yarn.

The method for producing the suede-like woven fabric of the present invention will be described in detail below. The present invention provides a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric by utilizing the heat shrinkage behavior in the woven fabric finishing step instead of subjecting the ultrafine fiber woven fabric to the urethane resin processing. Therefore, the heat shrinkage characteristics of the composite yarn used are important. The boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the composite yarn must be 25% or more, while the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester / polyamide composite fiber must be 20% or less. If the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn is less than 25%, the fabric surface area cannot be reduced by 30% or more in the finishing process of the fabric, and the desired texture with suede-like ground tightness can be obtained. Can not. If the boiling water shrinkage is 35% or more, a more preferable effect can be obtained. The allowable upper limit of the boiling water shrinkage is about 60% from the viewpoint of easy handling. If it exceeds 60%, keloid-like shrinkage unevenness is likely to occur during shrinkage processing of the woven fabric, which is not preferable.

On the other hand, the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester / polyamide composite fiber must be lower than the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn and not more than 20% in order to expose the composite fiber on the surface of the woven fabric by finishing. .. When it exceeds 20%, the difference in shrinkage of boiling water is so small that the composite fibers cannot be sufficiently exposed on the surface of the woven fabric. The lower limit of the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the composite fiber is not particularly limited, and shrinkage is not essential, and self-expansion may be up to about 5%. The shrinkage ratio of the composite yarn thus configured is determined by the polyester multifilament yarn, and exhibits a shrinkage ratio substantially equal to that of the polyester multifilament yarn.

The composite yarn as described above is obtained by combining the polyester / polyamide composite fiber multifilament yarn having the boiling water shrinkage ratio and the polyester multifilament yarn. Examples of the compounding method include alignment, mixed fiber, and ply twist. Above all, the mixed fiber is most preferable in order to make the covering property of the composite fiber on the woven surface uniform. In addition, if the composite yarn is entangled, the handleability when weaving with no twist or sweet twist is good. In the case of compounding by aligning or mixed fiber, it is preferable to twist the yarn prior to weaving. Twisting is preferable because the polyester / polyamide composite fibers in the composite yarn are forcedly and periodically appeared on the woven fabric surface, so that the woven fabric surface is finally covered with the ultrafine fibers. The twist number is suitably 100 to 1000 times / m, and most preferably 200 to 500 times / m.

Further, other compounding methods may be used, and the compounding false twisting method described below is most suitable in the present invention. That is, a stretchable polyester / polyamide composite fiber multifilament yarn and a polyester multifilament yarn having a higher elongation than that are aligned, and the temperature is 120 ° C.
This is a method of performing false false twisting at the following temperature. Here, the difference in elongation between the two multifilament yarns is preferably 50% or more in order to locate the polyester / polyamide composite fiber in the relatively outer layer portion of the composite yarn. The polyester / polyamide composite fiber has a spinning speed of 1000 to 3000 m /
Unstretched yarn having an elongation of 180 to 350% spun at min is preferred, and the other polyester multifilament yarn has an elongation of 8 spun at a spinning speed of 2500 to 3700 m / min.
0-200% undrawn yarn is preferred. Processing temperature is 120
It is necessary that the temperature is not higher than 0 ° C, and if it exceeds 120 ° C, the boiling water shrinkage ratio required for the composite yarn cannot be obtained. In particular, if it is 80 ° C. or less, a larger boiling water shrinkage ratio can be obtained, which is preferable, and processing at room temperature (15 to 30 ° C.) is most preferable.

The draw ratio during false twisting is preferably around the elongation (times) of the polyester multifilament yarn × 0.7. Further, as the false twisting tool, a disc type or belt type friction false twisting tool is suitable for easy thread hooking and less yarn breakage, but an air nozzle type or pin type false twisting tool may be used. When entanglement is given to the composite yarn, it is 10 before or after false twisting.
170 points / m, usually 20 to 120 points / m may be added.

The polyester / polyamide composite fiber used in the present invention may be a well-known laminated composite form having a cross section as shown in FIGS. 1 (a) to 1 (c). The polyester / polyamide composite fiber needs to be partially or wholly divided, but if the division within the woven fabric is suppressed to a part, a suede-like ground tightening feeling can be easily obtained.

After the polyester / polyamide composite fiber is divided, it is necessary that the woven fabric surface contains at least 0.35 denier or less, preferably 0.1 denier or less ultrafine fibers. When the fibers on the surface of the woven fabric exceed 0.35 denier, the touch becomes dull and the quality becomes poor. On the other hand,
The thinner the taper, the more moisturized the skin feels, but 0.01 denier is the practical limit due to the difficulty of composite spinning. And 0.1 by dividing
When obtaining ultrafine fibers of denier or less, the fibers become fibrillated due to friction etc. before the weaving process, making it difficult to handle.
It is preferable that a coating layer is formed on the fiber surface as shown in FIGS. 2 (a) and 2 (b). In that case, in order to improve the splittability, it is preferable to provide a hollow portion in the central portion of the fiber as shown in FIG. 2 (b).

On the other hand, the highly shrinkable polyester multifilament yarn preferably has a single fiber fineness of 1.5 denier or more, more preferably 2.5 denier or more. The thicker the monofilament fineness is, the better the resilience is. However, when it exceeds 12 denier, the fibers exposed on the surface may cause the fasteners to stick to each other, so the monofilament fineness is 12 denier or less, preferably 10 denier or less. To do. The composite ratio of the composite fiber multifilament yarn and the polyester multifilament yarn is 80:20 to 40:60 in total denier. If the polyester multifilament yarn is less than 20%, it lacks resilience and tear strength, and conversely 40% of composite fiber.
If it is less than the range, suede touch cannot be obtained. 70:
Most preferred is a ratio of 30-50: 50.

At the time of weaving, the composite yarn is used as the warp yarn and / or the weft yarn, but the use of the composite yarn for both the warp yarn and the weft yarn makes it possible to obtain a good quality woven fabric. When weaving with other yarns, the boiling water shrinkage is 25
% Or more of the yarns are used so that the polyester / polyamide multifilament yarns constituting the composite yarn will appear on the surface of the fabric when the fabric is finished. A woven fabric having a characteristic texture of any of plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave can be obtained. When a satin weave with the composite yarn as a floating yarn is used, a suede-like woven fabric of the highest quality can be obtained.

The density of the greige is 1450 to 1850 when the cover factor is plain weave and 1850 to 230 when the cover factor is twill weave so as to be suitable for the shrinking process at the finishing process stage of the woven fabric.
0, in the case of satin weave, it is good to set it to 2500-3000.

It is necessary for the greige to be contracted and relaxed by heat treatment so that the surface area of the fabric is contracted by 30% or more. If the shrinkage ratio is less than 30%, only a very fine touch woven fabric can be obtained, and a woven fabric with a suede-like texture that is rich in ground tightness and repulsion cannot be obtained. When the shrinkage ratio is 35% or more, a fabric having an excellent suede-like texture can be obtained. On the other hand, since shrinkage unevenness may occur when the shrinkage ratio is set to 50% or more, it is generally preferable to set it to about 47%.

The relaxation shrinkage of the woven fabric may be carried out by wet heat treatment, dry heat treatment or a combination thereof, but it is preferable in that wet heat uniformly acts heat to prevent shrinkage unevenness. In addition, the way of applying heat is instantaneously 70 to 100 ° C.
When hot water is applied, a woven fabric that shrinks well and has a strong tightness is obtained, and when it shrinks while gradually warming from room temperature to 100 ° C to 140 ° C, it also has a dullness and a tightness. Therefore, it is advisable to select the method of heat shrinkage according to the application. The heat treatment may be performed in one step,
Although it may be divided into several steps, it is necessary to make it encounter with a temperature of at least 70 ° C or higher, and it is preferable to heat to 100 to 130 ° C. It should be noted that the fact that the temperature rises gradually when the temperature is gradually raised rather than the momentary heating and shrinkage seems to be related to the fact that the material slightly expands after shrinkage between 100 and 130 ° C. Is. In addition, during the heat treatment, it is more comfortable to move the fabric rather than to leave it stationary.

When the woven fabric is subjected to heat shrinkage, a ground tightening feeling is obtained, and at the same time, the polyester / polyamide composite fiber is raised on the woven fabric surface due to the difference in heat shrinkage. Then, such a woven fabric divides a part or all of the polyester / polyamide composite fiber on the surface thereof into ultrafine fibers and imparts a suede-like touch.

To divide the composite fibers to obtain ultrafine fibers,
Elute some or all of the constituent polymers (eg
Elution of polyester with caustic soda, or elution of polyamide with formic acid), a difference in shrinkage strain caused by the action of chemicals, a mechanical action, and the like are employed. When the conjugate fiber having the cross section shown in FIG. 2 (b) is used, it is preferable that at least a part of the polyester component is eluted by the action of alkali to be divided. It should be noted that it is preferable that the composite fibers located inside the fabric structure are not all divided, and that a gradient of the degree of division is provided from the surface toward the inner layer because a fabric having a feeling of tightness and rich repulsion can be obtained. ..

Further, when the composite fibers appearing on the surface of the woven fabric are fluffed by raising the needle cloth or buffing, the surface touch can be made more suede. This fluffing may be performed before or after splitting the composite fiber.

[0021]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, by utilizing the heat shrinkage of the fabric structure, it is possible to develop the suede-like ground tightening feeling and repulsion similar to the case where the conventional ultrafine fibers are processed with polyurethane resin. it can. Moreover, the problem of using polyurethane resin, which is the problem of the rubber-like stuffy feeling, can be eliminated, and the texture can be improved, and the dyed cloth's low light fastness and migration dye transfer phenomenon. Can be eliminated.

[0022]

EXAMPLES The following will specifically describe the method for producing a suede-like woven fabric of the present invention with reference to Examples. In the examples, the boiling water shrinkage of the yarn was measured by the following method. That is, about 50
Make 0 denier ridges, apply a light load of 2 mg / de and a heavy load of 0.1 g / de, read the length L ₀ after 1 minute, immediately remove the heavy load, and leave the light load applied In that state, put it in boiling water momentarily, take it out after 20 minutes, remove the light load, and naturally dry for 24 hours. A light load and a heavy load are again applied to this material, the length L ₂ after 1 minute has elapsed is read, and the boiling water shrinkage rate (BWS) is determined by the following equation.

The surface area shrinkage of the woven fabric was determined by the following equation by comparing the surface area of the woven fabric with that of the finished fabric.

Example A composite fiber having a cross-sectional shape shown in FIG. 2 (b),
It is a polyester / polyamide laminating type that can be divided into 48 parts, the surface layer is covered with polyester skin, and the center part is a hollow composite fiber. Spinning speed is 1,500 m / m.
A multifilament yarn having an elongation of 230% and a filament of 20 filaments of 66 denier and a filament of 130 denier and a filament of 130% and a denier of 50 denier was obtained by spinning polyester at a spinning speed of 3,300 m / min. And 60% / m of entanglement are imparted using an air nozzle to mix the fibers, and subsequently at room temperature (25 ° C.), the draw ratio is 1.45 times, and the surface speed of the friction false twist tool is It was stretched and false twisted as 2.1 times and wound without heat setting.

The obtained processed yarn was 84 denier 32 filaments, the composite fiber multifilament yarn had a yarn length of 4% longer than the polyester multifilament yarn, and had 42 entangles / m between the multifilament yarns. Was. The boiling water shrinkage is 8% on the side of the composite fiber and 43% on the side of the polyester multifilament.
It was 6%.

Using this composite yarn, 600 times / m was twisted in the right twist direction as a warp, and then sizing was carried out at a temperature of 65 ° C. As a weft, 600 times / m was twisted in the right twist direction. Next, 5 reeds were put in a reed having a warp density of 63 birds / 3.79 cm, a warp density of 133 knots / 3.79 cm, and a woven fabric was woven with 5 woven fabrics.

The raw machine obtained as described above is put in at room temperature with a high-pressure rotary washer, and while relaxing, 1
The temperature was raised to 30 ° C., and the whole was relaxed for 20 minutes.
After this relaxation, the area shrinkage ratio to the raw machine is 4
It was 4%. After the relaxation step, presetting was carried out at 190 ° C. for 45 seconds, and then buffing was raised using # 400 sandpaper. Then
A weight reduction process of 15% by weight was carried out in an alkaline solution to divide the composite fibers on the surface of the woven fabric. Further, a finishing set was performed through the dyeing process.

The woven fabric obtained through the above steps had a final area shrinkage of 42%. And, without the fluffy feeling of rubbery feeling that is seen in urethane resin processed suede-like woven fabric, it is rich in smoothness, repulsion and clinging, and the surface touch of woven fabric is also rich in suede. Met. In addition, the light fastness was significantly superior to the urethane resin processed product of the second class, which was 4.5 (five-step evaluation), and a suede-like woven fabric with no dye transfer was obtained.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view illustrating a cross section of a polyester / polyamide composite fiber used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view illustrating a cross section of a polyester / polyamide composite fiber suitable for the present invention.

 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Masato Yoshimoto Inventor Masato Yoshimoto 3-4-1 Mihara, Ibaraki-shi, Osaka Teijin Limited Osaka Research Center

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A composite yarn of a multifilament yarn of a polyester / polyamide composite (conjugate) fiber capable of forming ultrafine fibers and a polyester multifilament yarn having a monofilament fineness larger than that of the ultrafine fiber is used as a warp and / or a weft. When a woven fabric is produced by using a polyester multi-filament yarn constituting the composite yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 25% or more, a polyester / polyamide composite fiber multi-filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or less In the process of weaving using a fabric and then finishing the raw fabric, the fabric surface area is contracted by 30% or more and at least a part of the polyester / polyamide composite fiber constituting the composite yarn is divided into ultrafine fibers. A method for producing a suede-like woven fabric. 2. The method for producing a suede-like woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn is a false twist composite yarn that is false twisted at a temperature of 120 ° C. or lower. 3. The method for producing a suede-like woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric has a satin design.