JPH0621397B2 - Strongly twisted fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a strongly twisted woven fabric and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a strong twist fabric having a good wrinkle rising effect and a soft surface sensation while having a firm and elastic feel, and a method for producing the same.

(Prior Art) It has been known for a long time that when a multi-filament yarn is imparted with a strong twist, a woven fabric is produced, and then the woven fabric is immersed in a hot water bath, a woven fabric having a rough surface is formed. This textured fabric has sharp and fine textures and has few textured spots, but has a major drawback that it lacks a soft feeling and a feeling of warmth. Therefore, an ultra-thinning composite yarn for a strongly twisted woven fabric is proposed in Published Utility Model No. 61-172174. However, although the strong twisted yarn made of only the ultrafine yarn can give a soft feeling, when the fineness is less than 1.0 d, the untwisting torque is small and the wrinkle is less likely to occur.

On the other hand, in Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 60-1413, false-twisting of a composite yarn capable of being melt-divided and divided into fine particles, in which a low melting point substance is a melting component,
A method is disclosed in which twists are fused and fixed, then woven, and then a dissolved component having a low melting point is eluted to develop torque. Furthermore, Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-522229 discloses a three-component composite yarn, which is divided into a plurality of side-by-side type yarns when one component is eluted and removed. A method of dissolving and removing components is shown.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-1413, since the fineness of the remaining fiber component is small, the graininess is small, and the S twist and Z twist portions are formed in the longitudinal direction of the fiber. However, since they are present alternately and at random lengths, they have the drawback that they tend to become uneven. Further, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-52229, the fineness of the remaining two-component composite yarn is small, so that the graininess is small, and the three-component composite yarn requires a complicated spinning device and is costly. It has drawbacks that lead to it.

The present invention has the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, that is, the graininess becomes small when expressing a soft texture, and the texture becomes difficult when the texture is increased. Improved, good wrinkle rising effect, soft surface sensation, moderate elasticity and firm twist fabric,
And a method for manufacturing the same.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention is a woven fabric in which a strongly twisted yarn consisting of a plurality of filament bundles is used as warp and / or weft, and (a) each filament bundle has a fineness of 1.2 d or more. 1 core filament and 6 or more petal filaments having a fineness of 0.5d or less, and the strong twisted yarns are located in such a manner that the core filaments are scattered at appropriate intervals in the cross section and the petal filaments surround the petal filaments. The present invention relates to a strongly twisted woven fabric having a structure. And such a strong twist fabric,
The fiber-forming polymer is divided into 7 or more segments by a polymer having higher solubility than the fiber-forming polymer, and one of the segments has a fineness of 1.2 d or more occupying substantially the center of the fiber cross section. Is a core segment,
The other segment is a multifilament yarn composed of 6 or more petal segments with a fineness of 0.5 or less, which surrounds the core segment, and is subjected to hard twist and then used for warp and / or weft. It can be manufactured by weaving, and then dissolving and removing a polymer having high solubility.

The filament bundle referred to in the present invention comprises, as shown in FIG. 1, one core filament having a fineness of 1.2d or more occupying the center of each bundle and six or more ultrafine fibers arranged so as to surround the core filament. It consists of petal filaments. The core filament is for imparting elasticity and stiffness to the woven fabric, and at the same time contributes to the appearance of grain, for which a fineness of 1.2d or more is required. If it is less than 1.2d, the untwisting torque after the strong twisting is small, and sufficient graining cannot be achieved. The number of petal filaments is required to be 6 or more in order to obtain sublime and soft texture, preferably 20 or less, and particularly preferably 8 to 16 in many cases. Furthermore, the fineness of the petal filament is 0.5d
It is necessary to be the following, and if it exceeds 0.5 d, a hard texture is obtained and a soft feeling cannot be exhibited, and a particularly preferable fineness is 0.1 to 0.4 d.

The ratio of the fineness of the core filament and the petal filament is 2
It is desirable to be about 15 times, more preferably about 4 to 10 times.

The petal filament preferably has a bulged fan shape as shown in FIG. 4 or a trapezoidal shape as shown in FIG. The size of individual petal segments constituting one composite fiber (which becomes a filament bundle after the easily soluble polymer is dissolved and removed) may be the same or different. However, when changing the size of each petal segment, it is often preferable in terms of production to change the size so as to be rotationally symmetrical.

The proportion of the petal segment occupying the surface of the conjugate fiber is preferably 50% or more, and particularly preferably 70% or more.

A plurality of the above composite fibers, usually about 10 to 50, are collected to form a strongly twisted yarn, and the number of twists is T (times / m), When the fineness of the hard-twisted yarn after dissolving and removing the easily soluble polymer is D (denier), T
It is necessary that ≧ 10,000 / √D in order to obtain a strong twist feeling, and further, T ≧ 15,000 / √D is preferable.

The woven fabric of the present invention uses the above strongly twisted yarn as the warp and / or the weft, and other yarns may be used by twisting, blending, or weaving.

Further, the structure of the woven fabric is not particularly limited, and various types such as plain weave and twill weave can be used.

Next, a method for obtaining the filament bundle will be described.

The filament bundle is composed of a fiber-forming polymer (A) and a highly soluble polymer (B) having a higher solubility than those shown in FIGS. 4 to 6.
It can be obtained by dissolving and removing the easily soluble polymer (B) after forming a conjugate fiber having a cross-sectional shape as shown in the figure. As the fiber-forming polymer (A), polyamide, polyester, polyolefin and the like are used, but polyester is preferable in terms of easiness of fixing the twist and feeling, and particularly polyethylene terephthalate is most preferable. Easily soluble polymer
(B) can be easily selected in consideration of the combination with the fiber-forming polymer (A), but a copolymerized polyester having a large alkali-hydrolyzability, such as a polycarboxylic acid having a polyalkylene glycol or a metal sulfonate group. Polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing one kind or two kinds is useful.

Hereinafter, an example of the method for producing the composite fiber will be described. 9th
FIG. 10 is a view for explaining a part of the vertical cross section of the spinneret pack showing the place where the fiber-forming polymer (A) and the easily soluble polymer (B) meet in the spinneret pack, and FIG. 10 is its XX ′ section. It is a perspective view. The fiber-forming polymer (A) is extruded from the core inner orifice (1) and the plurality of petal inner orifices (2) shown in FIG. On the other hand, the easily soluble polymer (B) is the flow channel (3) in Fig. 10.
Flow through the meeting point of both polymers, and after associating with the fiber-forming polymer (A) coming out from the internal orifice, it is discharged from the orifice (5) through the guide hole (4) of the die plate. . The sizes of the core segment and the petal segment can be freely changed by changing the inner diameters of the core internal orifice (1) and the petal internal orifice (2).

The woven fabric according to the present invention is subjected to a strong twist to the multifilament made of the composite fiber as described above, and after the twist-setting heat setting,
It can be obtained by weaving a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, and dissolving and removing substantially the easily soluble polymer.

(Working) FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing a cross section of a hard-twisted yarn used in the woven fabric according to the present invention.

As shown in the figure, in the present invention, a plurality of filament bundles in which a plurality of fineness petal filaments are located around one thick core filament are bundled while maintaining their shape. FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing a cross section when a large-fineness filament and a fine-fineness filament are made into a composite fiber by root fiber entanglement or the like. Most of the fine-fineness filaments are bundled in the central portion, and the fine-fineness filaments are located around the central portion. When both filament structures are compared, the structure shown in FIG. 2 has a larger untwisting torque as compared with the case where the filaments of large fineness are located at the center of the assembly as shown in FIG. The woven fabric has a good standing, the movement of the ultrafine fibers is less restricted, and a soft texture is obtained.

On the other hand, in the case of the conjugate fiber having the cross section as shown in FIG. 7 or the conjugate fiber of the core-petal segment whose core segment is too small, when the easily soluble polymer (B) is dissolved and removed, the volume may be reduced and the texture may be impaired. Since the conjugate fiber of the present invention has a thick core segment, when the easily soluble polymer (B) is dissolved and removed,
Since the ultra-fine petal filaments do not gather in the central part, there is no volume reduction, the degree of freedom of individual petal filaments is maintained, and a sublime and soft texture is obtained. Further, by providing the core segment, the dissolution treatment time of the easily soluble polymer (B) after forming the cloth can be shortened. Further, in the case of the composite fiber having the cross section as shown in FIG. 8, the number of petal filaments is small, a soft feeling cannot be obtained, and the dissolution treatment time of the easily soluble polymer becomes long.

(Example) Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as polymer P1) having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 measured with a mixed solution of phenol and tetrachloroethane 6: 4 at 20 ° C. Polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 4,000 was polyethylene. A polyester copolymerized with terephthalate at 18% by weight (hereinafter referred to as polymer P2) was prepared. Next, polymer P
1 at 295 ° C. and polymer P2 at 290 ° C. with different screw extruders, and a gear pump with a joining ratio of P1 / P.
2 = 3/1 (volume ratio), metered and extruded, and 292
It is guided to the die pack shown in Fig. 9 and Fig. 10 at ℃, extruded from the orifice, and wound up at 1,000 m / min.
Then, draw it 3.5 times with a hot roller at 85 ° C.
A multi-filament of 180d / 25f composite fiber was prepared by contacting with a hot plate at ℃ and heat treatment. At this time, the composite fiber having the cross section as shown in FIG. 5 in which the fineness of the core segment and the petal segment are different by using various mouthpieces having different inner diameters of the internal orifices (1) and (2) of FIGS. 9 and 10 Multifilaments F1 to F5 were obtained. The multifilament of these composite fibers is twisted 1,500 times / m in the S direction or 1,500 times / m in the Z direction at 88 ° C.
I set it with a twist stopper.

Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament 100d / 96f was used for the warp, and two multifilament S and Z twisted yarns of the above composite fiber were alternately sewn into the weft and woven. Then, while shaking the obtained fabric, 1
% NaOH aqueous solution at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes (135d / 225 for the strongly twisted yarn after dissolving and removing the easily soluble polymer)
f).

Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament 100d / 96f is used for the warp, and polyethylene terephthalate multifilament 135d / 132f is used for the weft.
The result obtained by evaluating the obtained woven fabric was compared with the strong woven fabric (F0) in which two S yarns and two Z yarns twisted and set at 88 ° C. were twisted at 500 times / m and alternately woven. The results are shown in Table 1.

From the comparison of F0 to F5, it is necessary for the core segment to be 1.2d or more in order to give the appearance of wrinkles and to have firmness and waist, and in order to express a soft surface sensation, the petal filament Was found to be 0.5d or less.

Further, when the wefts of the woven fabric of the present invention were observed, it was found that 25 core filaments were scattered at appropriate intervals, and eight extra fine petal filaments were surrounded by each.

Example 2 The polymer P1 and the polymer P2 used in Example 1 were used, and the polymer bonding ratio P1 / P2 = 3/1 was 100d / 25f having a cross section as shown in FIG. 8, FIG. 4 and FIG.
Composite fiber multifilaments F6 to F8 were prepared.
1,800 times per multifilament of these composite fibers
A strongly twisted woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the m twist was applied to the warp and the weft (the strongly twisted yarn after the easily soluble polymer was dissolved and removed was 75d).

The results are shown in Table 2. From the comparison of F6 to F8, it was found that six or more petal filaments were required to obtain a soft surface feeling.

(Effect of the invention) The strongly twisted woven fabric of the present invention has good surface texture, has a firm and elastic feeling, and has a soft surface texture, and also has a feeling of swelling. Best for blouses. It is also suitable as a material for Japanese clothing.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is one filament bundle used in the present invention, FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing a cross section of a strongly twisted yarn used in the woven fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 3 is the same schematic diagram of a filament yarn other than the present invention. ,
FIGS. 4 to 6 are examples of cross-sectional views of composite fibers for making filament bundles used in the present invention, FIGS. 7 and 8 are cross-sectional views of composite fibers outside the present invention, FIG. 9 and FIG. FIG. 10 is an example of a schematic diagram of a spinneret for spinning the composite fiber used in the present invention. A: Fiber-forming polymer B: Easily soluble polymer

Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification number Reference number within the agency FI Technical display location D03D 15/00 F 7199-3B // D06M 11/38 11/84 (56) Reference JP-A-59-88974 (JP, A) JP 60-1413 (JP, B1) JP 60-52229 (JP, B1)

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric using a strongly twisted yarn composed of a plurality of filament bundles for a warp and / or a weft, wherein (a) each filament bundle has one core filament having a fineness of 1.2 d or more and a fineness of 0. 0.5d or less and 6 or more petal filaments, and the core filaments and petal filaments are the same fiber-forming polymer,
(B) A strong-twisted woven fabric, characterized in that the strong-twisted yarn has a structure in which the core filaments are scattered at appropriate intervals in the cross section and petal filaments surround the core filaments. 2. A fiber-forming polymer is divided into 7 or more segments by a polymer having a higher solubility than the fiber-forming polymer, and one of the segments is a fineness occupying substantially the center of the fiber cross section. After a strong twist is applied to a multifilament yarn composed of a composite fiber that is a core segment of 1.2d or more, and other segments are 6 or more petal segments with a fineness of 0.5d or less, which are located around the core segment. A method for producing a strongly twisted woven fabric, which comprises weaving using a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn, and then dissolving and removing a highly soluble polymer.