JPH06220770A - Cloth and its processing - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a processed cloth having disitinct creased irregularity and color density difference without deteriorating the feeling of cloth by forming bent protrusions and recesses on a cloth containing a core-sheath conjugate fiber composed of specific components and dyeing the product. CONSTITUTION:A saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 35-70mol% and a saponification degree of >=95% is used as a core component and an amide component (preferably nylon 6, etc.) is used as a sheath component to form a core-sheath conjugate fiber having a circular cross- section and containing the core component and the sheath component at a core: sheath weight ratio of 1:(0.4-2.4). A woven, knit or nonwoven fabric containing the core-sheath conjugate fiber is subjected to wet-heat treatment in bent state and dyed to obtain a cloth having a densely dyed part at the bent part compared with the non-bent part. The cloth is bent to an extent to deform the conjugate fiber at the bent part to a deformation degree of >=1.25.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a surface-improved fabric in which wrinkle-like irregularities and a color difference are provided on the surface of the fabric and a method for processing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for imparting wrinkle-like irregularities to a fabric, mechanical methods such as a washer, a jet dyeing machine, and an embossing machine are used, or after folding and twisting the fabric, wrinkles are applied. There are methods such as fixing the irregularities, and mild wrinkles, small wrinkles, wrinkles with a sharp angle, wrinkles only in the warp direction, wrinkles of warp and weft combinations are obtained.

However, in reality, when wrinkle-like unevenness is imparted to the cloth by these methods, clear wrinkle-like unevenness is relatively likely to be obtained in the polyester cloth, but the polyamide fiber is dimensionally stable in the cloth. Inferior in terms of setting and setting,
Moreover, it has the property of becoming easily stretchable when it absorbs moisture, and it is difficult to obtain clear wrinkle-like irregularities in the polyamide-based fabric. Furthermore, no one having a remarkable color difference between the wrinkle-like uneven portion and the normal portion without wrinkles was obtained. Furthermore, if the yarns that make up the fabric contain polyamide ultrafine fibers, it becomes more difficult to obtain wrinkles with more distinct irregularities. Therefore, as a countermeasure against this, if the heat conditions for wrinkle processing are further strengthened, However, there was a problem that the quality of the fabric was remarkably impaired due to the occurrence of hand-curing, and defects such as scratches and hits on the fabric surface.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and a cloth having clear wrinkle-like irregularities and a color difference on the surface of the cloth without hardening the texture and impairing the appearance quality. And its processing method.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention achieves the above object and has the following configuration. That is, the present invention provides a "core-sheath type composite having a circular cross section in which a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 35 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more is used as a core component and a polyamide component is used as a sheath component. Fabrication, characterized in that a fabric containing fibers is used as a work fabric, and the composite fiber in the bent portion is subjected to wet heat treatment in a bent state so that the degree of deformation of the composite fiber is 1.25 or more, and then dyed. Method ”and“ ethylene having an ethylene content of 35 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more-
What is claimed is: 1. A fabric comprising a core-sheath type composite fiber having a circular cross-section, the saponified product of vinyl acetate copolymer being the core component and the polyamide component being the sheath component, wherein the fabric has a curved wrinkle and a wrinkled portion. The fabric is characterized in that the composite fiber has a degree of deformation of 1.25 or more and is dyed darker than the non-bent portion.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

In the method of the present invention, the ethylene content is 3
A cloth containing a core-sheath type composite fiber having a circular cross section, which comprises a saponified product of an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having a saponification degree of 5 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more as a core component and a polyamide component as a sheath component, as a processed fabric. To use.

The composite fiber used in the present invention uses a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as a core component.
It is a circular core-sheath type composite fiber in which a polyamide component is used as a sheath component. The saponification product of the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer used as the core component has an ethylene content of 35 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more as measured by the NMR method [deuterium substitution / DMSO solution]. It is preferable to use one of the following. If the ethylene content is less than 35 mol%, the melt viscosity of the saponified product of the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer increases, and melt spinning tends to be difficult. On the other hand, when the ethylene content exceeds 70 mol%, the hydroxyl groups of vinyl alcohol decrease, the hydrophilicity of the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer decreases, and the water absorption of the composite fiber tends to decrease, which is not preferable. The saponification degree is 9
If it is less than 5%, thermal decomposition tends to occur during melt spinning. Typical physical properties of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer are as follows: DSC method (under N ₂ atmosphere,
The melting point measured at a temperature rising rate of 10 ° C / min) is 150 ° C or higher,
ASTM-D-1238-65T (load 2160g, 1
The melt index at 210 ° C. measured according to (90 ° C.) is in the range of 2 to 30.

As the polyamide component used as the sheath component, nylon 6 and nylon 6 which have been conventionally known are used.
A copolymer obtained by using 6, Nylon MXD6 and the monomers constituting them, or a mixture thereof can be used. Particularly in the present invention, nylon 6
Is preferably used. This is because the melting point of nylon 6 is relatively close to the melting point of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, and nylon 6 has excellent thermal stability. The polyamide used preferably has a relative viscosity (measured at a concentration of 1 g / deciliter and a temperature of 25 ° C. using 96% sulfuric acid as a solvent) in the range of 2.0 to 4.0.

The weight ratio of the core component to the sheath component of the core-sheath type composite fiber used in the present invention is as follows: core component: sheath component = 1: 0.4
It is preferably about 2.4. When the amount of the core component is less than the above range, it becomes difficult to obtain wrinkle-like unevenness for fixing the fabric in a bent state, and conversely, when the amount of the sheath component is less than the above range, the thermal stability is improved. The inferior core component is exposed on the surface of the composite fiber, the thermal stability of the core-sheath type composite fiber is remarkably deteriorated, and the dyeing density is less likely to appear, and the color difference between the normal part and the bent part tends to be less likely to occur. It is not preferable.

In the present invention, a woven fabric is woven by using the core-sheath type composite fiber as described above as a warp or a weft, or as both a warp and a weft. In the present invention, in addition to the above woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a non-woven fabric may be formed and used as a fabric to be processed. When weaving or knitting woven or knitted fabrics,
Mixed yarns in combination with other polyamide fibers may be used.

The main reason for using the saponified product of the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as the core component in the present invention is nylon 6
Compared with the polyamide component of, the melting point is lower by about 50 ° C, the bending is easily fixed when the fabric is bent in the next step, and the bending is easily fixed.
In addition, it has high washing durability.

In the method of the present invention, the above-mentioned cloth is used as the cloth to be processed, and the bent portion of the composite fiber is subjected to the wet heat treatment so that the degree of deformation of the conjugate fiber is 1.25 or more. The method of bending the cloth includes a method of treating with a conventionally known washer, a method of packing in a jet dyeing machine, a method of forcibly folding and twisting, etc. It may be bent. Hot water or steam is preferably used as the wet heat treatment condition for fixing in a bent state, and the temperature of the wet heat treatment is preferably 95 to 110 ° C. This is ethylene-
This is because the saponified vinyl acetate copolymer is easily heat-set at the same temperature of 95 to 110 ° C. When the temperature is 95 ° C or lower, the bent portion is difficult to be fixed, and when the temperature is 110 ° C or higher, the texture of the fibers tends to be hard, which is not preferable. A treatment time of 1 to 40 minutes is suitable. In less than 1 minute,
The fixing of the bent part is weak, and the wrinkled unevenness disappears due to dyeing.
When it is over 40 minutes, the texture becomes hard.

In the present invention, as described above, the degree of bending deformation of the core-sheath type composite fiber (major axis / minor axis of fiber cross section) is 1.25 or more. The main reason is that in the dyeing process in the next step, the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, which is the core component of the core-sheath type composite fiber, is not colored, but only the polyamide component of the sheath component is colored. Although dyed, when this composite fiber is bent with a degree of deformation of 1.25 or more, due to the light reflection characteristics of the fiber, the curved flat cross section of the core-sheath yarn is compared with the normal circular cross section of the core-sheath yarn. Is tended to be deep-colored and looks dark, and this is because the deep-coloring effect is exerted. This phenomenon is because the incident light in the normal circular cross-section of the core-sheath yarn is largely reflected by the undyed layer of the core component, whereas the bent flat cross-section of the core-sheath yarn has many bends exposed on the fabric surface. Then, the light incident on the bent flat portion is less specularly reflected to the naked eye, and because it is repeatedly reflected and internally absorbed between fibers, it is presumed that it becomes deep-colored and the dyeing density becomes darker. is there. When the degree of deformation is 1.25 or less, the regular reflection light of the incident light increases in the same tendency as the circular core / sheath normal cross section yarn, and the color looks pale, which is not preferable.

In the method of the present invention, the cloth having the wrinkle-like irregularities obtained as described above is subjected to a dyeing finishing process. The dyeing finishing process can be arbitrarily adopted by a conventionally known method. For example, after relaxing and scouring treatment in warm water, dyeing is performed using an acid dye or a metal-containing dye. As described above, the surface-improved processed fabric of the present invention having wrinkle-like irregularities and a color difference is obtained.

[0016]

[Working] As in the present invention, a fabric is formed by using a core-sheath composite fiber having a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as a core component and a polyamide component as a sheath component. When the wet heat treatment is performed, since the melting point of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as the core component is low, the fabric is easily bent and fixed, and clear wrinkle-like irregularities are formed on the fabric. Moreover, when the core-sheath composite fiber in the bent portion is deformed to a deformation degree of 1.25 or more during bending-moisture treatment, the specular reflection light of the incident light on the fiber is reduced, and moreover, the reflection and internal reflection between the fibers occur. The absorption is repeated, and the wrinkled irregularities appear dark.

[0017]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described more specifically by way of examples. The evaluation of the fabrics in the examples was carried out by the following methods. (1) Sensation of wrinkle-like unevenness The following three-stage evaluation was performed by visual inspection. ○: Good wrinkled unevenness △: Wrinkled unevenness slightly good ×: Poor wrinkled unevenness (2) Color difference between wrinkled uneven portion and normal surface area By the naked eye, the dark and light of the wrinkled uneven portion with respect to the normal surface area The following three-stage judgment was performed. ◯: Wrinkled uneven part is darker Δ: Wrinkled uneven part is slightly darker ×: Wrinkled uneven part is lighter

Example 1 An ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer saponified product having an ethylene content of 45 mol%, a saponification degree of 97% and a melt index of 15.0 was used as a core component, and nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of 2.5 was sheathed. Composite melt spinning was carried out by a conventionally known method using the components in a composite weight ratio of 5: 5. The spinning temperature at this time was set to 210 ° C. for the core component, 260 ° C. for the sheath component, and 260 ° C. for the spinneret. After spinning, the film was once wound at a take-up speed of 1200 m / min while being cooled by blowing air from the lateral direction. Then, in a separate process, the first-stage roller at room temperature and the second roller at room temperature are
It was stretched 1.013 times between the step roller and the second step roller and the third step roller heated to 140 ° C so that the total draw ratio was 2.92 times. , Core-sheath type composite multifilament yarn 30d / 12f was obtained. Separately,
Nylon 6 multifilament yarn 40d in the usual way
/ 68f was produced by a one-step high-speed spinning method at a spinning take-up speed of 3600 m / min. Here, the core-sheath type composite multifilament yarns 30d / 12f and the nylon 6 multifilament yarns 40d / 68f are aligned, and the number of interlaced pieces is 92 /
m interlace treatment was performed to obtain a mixed fiber yarn.

By using this mixed fiber yarn for warp and weft, a twill having a warp density of 165 yarns / inch and a weft density of 102 yarns / inch (2
/ 2 twill) was woven. Using this woven fabric as a fabric to be processed, first, a relaxation-scouring treatment was performed according to the following formulation 1 under the conditions of 80 ° C. and 20 minutes. Prescription 1 Sunmol FL 1g / l (Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd., surfactant) Caustic soda 1g / l

Next, this woven fabric was strongly folded in an accordion manner at intervals of 5 cm in the longitudinal direction, the ends were bound and fixed, and the fabric was strongly twisted and wound on a pipe having a diameter of 20 cm, and then hot water was used. It was put in the inside, bent-molded under the conditions of a temperature of 100 ° C. and a time of 30 minutes, rapidly cooled and fixed. After dehydration, disentanglement, and drying, the fiber cross section of the wrinkle-shaped irregularities of the woven fabric was examined, and the bending deformation was 1.50. Clear wrinkle-like irregularities were formed on the surface of the fabric.

Here, using the above dyeing machine, the following prescription 2
Dyeing was carried out at a temperature of 100 ° C. for 20 minutes. Prescription 2 Kayanol Yellow 5GW 0.5 2% owf (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd., acid dye) Telon Fast Blue A3GL 0.3 5% owf (manufactured by Bayerjahan Co., Ltd., acid dye) Aminyl Mill. Green FGL 0.202 % Owf (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., acid dye) Leberan NKD 1.0% owf (Maruhishi Yuka Co., Ltd., leveling agent) Meisan PC 1 g / l (Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd., pH adjuster)

The obtained woven fabric has a warp density of 203 yarns / inch,
At a weft density of 120 yarns / inch, the degree of bending deformation slightly changed during dyeing to 1.45, but clear and good wrinkle-like irregularities were formed on the normal surface. In comparison, the processed woven fabric had a color difference in which wrinkle-like irregularities appeared dark. The texture was also good.

For comparison with the present invention, the warp density 176 is the same as in Example 1 except that nylon 6 multifilament yarn 30d / 12f is used in place of the core-sheath type composite multifilament yarn 30d / 12f. Book / inch, weft density 96 threads / inch twill (2/2) was woven, and this woven fabric was used as a fabric to be processed in the same manner as in Example 1 with a warp density of 205 threads / inch, weft density 105 processed yarns / inch were obtained.

The processed fabrics of the present invention and the comparative fabrics were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the processed woven fabric of the present invention has clear and good wrinkle-like irregularities and a clear color difference on the surface. When the two were compared, the shape and quantity of the wrinkles of the comparative processed fabric were almost the same as those of the processed fabric of the present invention using the core-sheath composite yarn, but the wrinkled irregularities were weak, In addition, the processed woven fabric showed almost no color difference between the wrinkle-like uneven portion and the normal surface portion.

[0026]

According to the method of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a processed fabric having clear wrinkle-like irregularities and a color difference on the surface of the fabric without impairing the feeling.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A core-sheath composite fiber having a circular cross section, which comprises a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 35 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more as a core component and a polyamide component as a sheath component. A method for processing a fabric, characterized in that a fabric containing stencil is used as a processed fabric, and the composite fiber in the bent portion is subjected to wet heat treatment in a bent state to have a deformation degree of 1.25 or more, and then dyed. . 2. A core-sheath type composite fiber having a circular cross section and comprising a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 35 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more as a core component and a polyamide component as a sheath component. Which has bending uneven wrinkles in a part of the cloth, and the degree of deformation of the composite fiber in the bending portion is
A fabric characterized by being dyed in a darker color than the non-bent portion with a color of 1.25 or more.