JPH06294004A - Production of upper collar of clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To enable the preparation of the upper collar of clothes resistant to distortion easily even by an inexperienced worker dispensing with the use of collar folding by drafting the contour of the upper collar in a state of extended outer circumference, preparing an upper collar using the dress pattern and stretching the collar stand of the upper collar. CONSTITUTION:The sewing line 2 of the right and left upper collar halves is drawn from an origin 0' to a length corresponding to the width of the upper collar width in expanded state. Additional lines such as lines 3 for edge, a line 4 for the notching length of upper collar and a line 6 for the positioning of the sewing line of shoulder are drawn and further a back neck line 8 is drawn to complete a copying pattern. Separately, the sewing line 5 for shoulder, its extension line 9, a folding line 11 for lapel, its extension line 12 and an upper collar notching line 14 on the gorge line 13 of the lapel are drawn to prepare a pattern to be copied. The pattern to be copied is placed on the copying pattern and the cross points are tied with a curved line to form the neck line 15 and the edge line 17 for forming a pattern. A base collar and the front collar are prepared by using the pattern and the part of the collar stand 20 surrounded by the fold line 16, neck line 15, back neck line 8 and the right and left sewing lines 2 is stretched to obtain an upper collar having ground collar and front collar fitting with each other.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an upper collar of clothes such as men's clothes.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art For example, for men's clothes such as men's clothes, as shown in FIG. 5, the left side of the body of the clothes is a front part (front part) 21, a side part (side part) 22, and a back part (back part). ) 23 is sewn together, the right part of the clothes body is similarly created, and the two are sewn together to form the clothes body, and the upper collar, sleeves, pockets, etc. are added to complete. Such men's clothing is to make a pattern, cut the fabric according to the pattern as described above, and sew it together to make the body of the clothes, but for the upper collar, make another pattern,
According to this, hemp core and Karacloth are cut to make a ground collar,
Similarly, cut the same fabric as the clothes body to make a front collar,
These ground collar and front collar are sewn together to form an upper collar, and as shown in FIG. 5, this upper collar 25 is connected to the cord wire 2 of the label 24 on the front body.
4a, the neckline 26, and the back collar mitts 27 are sewn.

Conventionally, as shown in FIG. 6, a pattern for making an upper collar has conventionally been formed by extending a fold line 24b of a label 24 from its upper end point x to draw a label fold line extension line 28, and a back suture line ( 23a) of FIG. 5 is extended from the upper end o'point thereof and a left and right suture line 29 having the same length as the upper neck width at the time of deployment is drawn and the tip thereof is a.
Points (the positional relationship between the back suture line and the folding line of the label is determined), the intersection point of these label folding line extension lines 28 and the left and right suture lines 29 is defined as b, and 1. 5 to 2.0 cm Find the point c near the above o '
A dorsal fold line 30 is drawn toward the point d obtained on the label fold line extension line 28 at an appropriate position slightly on the label 24 side from the midpoint of x to b from the point. In addition, the cord wire 2 of the label 24
4a is extended, and a neckline 31 connecting the tip y (intersection with the neckline 26 in FIG. 5) and the point o'is drawn, and the upper collar is placed at an appropriate position (not constant depending on the design) of the koji line 24a. The cut line 32 is erected and its tip is set to f, an edge line 33 connecting this f point and the above point a is drawn, and finally the shoulder suture line is extended from its front end (front end e of 21b in FIG. 5), and the label It intersects with the extension line 28 and turns to the edge line 3
A shoulder suture extension line 34 extending to 3 is drawn. In this way, a pattern of the upper collar surrounded by the koji wire 24a, the collar mitts wire 31, the left and right stitching lines 29, the edge wire 33 and the upper collar nick 32 is formed. In this paper pattern, the line from the point x to the point d to the point c is a fold line, indicating that the collar waist on the right side of the figure and the left side of the figure are folded back along the fold line.

An upper collar obtained by stitching a ground collar and a front collar made by using such a pattern is folded back with the ground collar inward from the portion corresponding to the above-mentioned folding line of the pattern. Ironing work on so-called buns, which is a stand covered with a soft material on a board so that the collar waist part (inner part) is shortened at the mountain line and the opposite side (outer part) is extended. Is carried out so that the front collar and the ground collar are well adapted.

[0005]

However, since the upper collar is formed by stitching the front collar and the ground collar, the difference in the material makes it possible to align the outer circumference and the inner circumference with Erikoroshi and to fix it. No way,
The current situation is that it depends on the intuition of the craftsman,
It is not easy for experienced craftsmen to make the collar and front collar fit. If the front collar and the ground collar do not fit well, the front collar may have pili (small wrinkles), the front collar may be squeezed (the front side warps), or the collar may be missing (the collar looks like a female kimono collar). The label will be hung up on the upper side (it will be harder), and the label will be loose (softer). In addition, even if it looks good at first, it may become deformed (deform) with the passage of time due to wearing clothes, and the work of Erikoroshi is so called a crying point for craftsmen.

[0006]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention draws the upper collar left and right suture lines 2 of the upper collar width dimension at the time of deployment from (A) a base point O ', and from the tip O thereof, Auxiliary line 3 for edge line at a right angle to the upper collar left and right suture line 2 or at an angle near it
And draw an auxiliary line 4 for the upper collar nick line length substantially parallel to the auxiliary line 3 for the edge line from the upper collar left and right suture line 2 which is 0.7 to 2 cm from the point O, and for the edge line auxiliary. The point P, which is a distance corresponding to the distance between the suture line of the back and the suture line of the shoulder from the point O of the line 3, intersects with the auxiliary line 4 for the upper collar nick line length, and approximately the left and right suture lines 2 of the upper collar. A parallel shoulder suture position auxiliary line 6 is drawn, and an upper collar width point O ″ corresponding to the upper collar width dimension when folded back from the point O to the upper collar left and right suture lines 2 is obtained. On the position auxiliary line 6, a point Q within 1/2 of the distance between the edge line auxiliary line 3 and the upper neck line length auxiliary line 4 is obtained from the point P, and from the point Q, the point Q is obtained. O ~
A point S having the same length as O ″ is obtained on the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6, the point S is connected to the point O ″, and a dorsal fold line 7 is drawn. A point T having the same length as O ′ to O ″ is obtained on the auxiliary line 6 for shoulder suture line position, the point M is connected to the point O ′, and a collar line 8 is drawn. ~ O ''
A point N ′ having the same length as that on the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6; and (B) a step different from the step (A) The suture line 5 of the
A shoulder suture extension line 9 extended from the above is drawn, and an intersection point N ″ between the shoulder suture extension line 9 and the label return extension line 12 which is an extension of the label return line 11 of the label 10 is obtained, and the label 1
The step of making the upper collar nick line 14 on the 0 gorge line 13 and making a copying diagram in which the tip is the upper neck nick point G (C) for the copy made in the above (A) step The above N'point of the diagram is superposed on the N '' point of the copied diagram created in the step (B), and the copied diagram is rotated around the N'point as a base to assist the edge line. A point G ′ at which the line 3 intersects the point G is obtained, and in that state, from the upper neck line 14 of the copy line and the upper line line 14 of the gorge line 13 in the copy line. Copy up to the tip X, connect the tip and the point T with an arcuate line to form the gougly line 15, and further copy the label 10 side of the label folding extension line 12 and pass through the point S or its vicinity and the spine. The side fold line 7 is connected to form the fold line 16, and the auxiliary line 3 for the edge line is added from the point G '.
By making an edge line 17 by drawing an arc-shaped line that smoothly touches to, a pattern is created by having a step of making a diagram on the left and right sides of the upper collar in the expanded state in the above-mentioned diagram for copying, and using the pattern When creating a base collar and a front collar, and when creating an upper collar from the base collar and the front collar, a collar surrounded by the origami line 16, the agori line 15, the collar line 8 and the left and right suture lines 2 of the pattern. The present invention provides a method for manufacturing an upper collar of clothes in which the portion corresponding to the waist 20 is stretched to improve the familiarity between the ground collar and the front collar.

[0007]

[Function] In the conventional work, the dimensions after the outer circumference has been extended are drawn on the pattern paper, and the inner circumference can be adjusted by stretching the waist of the actually created ground collar, front collar, or both stitched upper collar. At that time, since the warp yarns and the weft yarns intersect diagonally in the direction of stretching, the fabrics used for them are easy to stretch and are difficult to return to the original state.

[0008]

EXAMPLE An example of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.
Although described based on FIG. 4, the present invention is not limited to this. 1, as shown in FIG.
Extend a tip O '(corresponding to 23a in Fig. 5) (corresponding to o'in Fig. 5) and draw the upper collar left and right suture lines 2 of the upper collar width dimension at the time of deploying the upper collar. Draw an auxiliary line 3 for the edge line at a right angle to the left and right suture lines 2 of the collar and 0.7 from the above point O.
˜2 cm, preferably 1.0-1.8 cm, eg 1.
From the above-mentioned upper collar left and right suture line 2 at a point of 5 cm, an auxiliary line 4 for the upper collar nick line length is drawn substantially parallel to the auxiliary line 3 for the edge line,
The upper collar left and right with the tip N of the suture line 5 (corresponding to 21b in FIG. 5) of the shoulder intersecting with the auxiliary line 4 for the length of the upper collar line and reaching the auxiliary line 3 for the edge line and the intersection point being P. An auxiliary line 6 for shoulder suture line position that is substantially parallel to the suture line 2 is drawn, and an upper collar width point O corresponding to the upper collar width dimension of the upper collar folded back ground is placed on the upper collar left and right suture lines 2 from the point O ''. On the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6 from the point P to within 1/2 of the distance between the edge line auxiliary line 3 and the upper neck nick line length auxiliary line 4, preferably 2 / 5 to 1/6, for example, the point Q of 1/3,
A point S having the same length as O to O ″ is obtained from the point Q on the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6, and the point S and the point O ″ are connected in an arc shape to form a dorsal fold mountain line. 7 is subtracted, and from the S point, the above O ′
A point T having the same length as O ″ is obtained on the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6, the point T and the O ′ point are connected in an arc shape, and a collar line 8 is drawn. A line diagram for copying the point N ′ having the same length as O ″ is found on the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6 is created.

Next, as shown in FIG. 2, a shoulder suture line extension line 9 obtained by extending the shoulder suture line 5 from the point N at its tip is drawn on a paper different from that shown in FIG. The intersection point N '' of the label folding line 11 of the label 10 and the label folding extension line 12 which is extended from the tip X of the label 10 is obtained, and the upper collar nick line 14 is erected on the gorge line 13 of the label 10 and the tip thereof is nicked. A line drawing for the end point G is created.

Then, as shown in FIG. 3, the paper of FIG. 1 is overlaid on the paper of FIG. 2, and the point N'of the copying diagram of FIG.
Is superposed on the N ″ point of the copy diagram, and the copy diagram is rotated around the N ′ point as a base to obtain a point G ′ at which the edge line auxiliary line 3 intersects with the G point. Further, as shown in FIG. 4, the upper neck line 1 of the copy diagram is added to the copy diagram.
4. Copy the gorge line 13 and connect the gorge line 13 and the collar mitts line 8 with an arc line to form a goggle line 15, and copy the label folding extension line 12 on the label 10 side and the line. An arc line is connected to the dorsal fold line 7 through the point corresponding to the point S or in the vicinity thereof to form a fold line 16 as a whole, and from the point G ′ to O of the auxiliary line 3 for edge line.
An arc line smoothly contacting the midpoint of P is drawn to form an edge line 17. In this way, by copying the necessary parts of the copying diagram of FIG. 2 to the copying diagram of FIG. 1, the upper neck crease line 14, the gorge line 13, the fold line 16, the left and right suture lines 2 and the edge line are obtained. Collar table 19 surrounded by 17, and agoguri line 15,
It is composed of a collar waist 20 surrounded by a collar mits line 8, left and right suture lines 2 and a fold mountain line 16. From the fold mountain line 16, the pattern on the left side of the upper collar, which is supposed to be folded back, is obtained.

[0011] With this pattern, a ground collar is made using hemp core and colored cloth, and similarly, a front collar is made using the same cloth as the cloth of the clothes body. Next, sew these ground and front collars together, and
The upper collar is made by folding back from the portion corresponding to the fold line 16 shown in Fig. 3, and at that time, the pattern has a length of O'-Y in Fig. 3 of Y-.
Compared to the length of N plus the lengths of O to P, when the auxiliary line 4 for the upper neck nick line length is obtained at a point 1.5 cm from the point O, it is about 0.8 cm shorter. The upper collar made from the pattern paper is extended well by stretching 0.3 cm and 0.5 cm, respectively, at the neck and waist portions of the collar waist 20 shown in Fig. 4 without compromising the collar table and the collar waist. You can blend it in and blend it. In addition, the upper and lower collars may be manufactured by stretching the waists of the ground collar and the front collar as described above and then sewing them. In this case, the upper collar may be sewn to the body of the garment, but the ground collar and the front collar may be attached separately, and the present invention includes both cases.

[0012]

According to the present invention, the dimension of the upper collar with the outer circumference extended is drawn on the pattern paper, and the waist of the upper collar made by using this pattern is stretched. Even if you have little experience, you can easily make the upper collar without the need for a lot of work. In addition, even if the waist is extended, the direction of extension is the direction in which the warp and weft threads of the fabric intersect diagonally, so it is easy to extend and it is difficult to return to the original shape, so the front and ground collars fit well together. Not only does it not cause piri (small wrinkles) on the front collar due to the absence, the necklace gets stuck, the collar is missing, and the label becomes spicy, and conversely the label becomes sweet,
It does not deform (deform) with the passage of time, and it has great merit that these materials are less likely to occur even for materials with low shear rigidity such as summer land, mohair, and tonic.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a first step of producing a paper pattern used in a method of an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the second step.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the third step.

FIG. 4 is a completed drawing of the pattern.

FIG. 5 is an exploded explanatory view of one side of the clothes body of men's clothes.

FIG. 6 is a diagram of the conventional paper pattern.

[Explanation of symbols]

 2 Left and right suture line 8 Collar line Mitsu line 13 Gorge line 14 Upper collar Kizami line 15 Agoguri line 16 Oriyama line 17 Edge line 19 Collar table 20 Collar waist

 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Hironori Kobayashi 4535-9 Kamigomi, Sagamihara-shi, Kanagawa Prefecture (72) Tomoko Kobayashi 4535-9 Kamigomi, Sagamihara-shi, Kanagawa Prefecture (72)

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. (A) An upper collar left and right suture line 2 is drawn from the base point O'when the upper collar is widened at the time of deployment, and a tip end O is right angle to the upper neck left and right suture line 2 or an angle in the vicinity thereof for an edge line. Draw an auxiliary line 3 and draw an auxiliary line 4 for the upper neck nick line length substantially parallel to the auxiliary line 3 for the edge line from the upper collar left and right suture line 2 which is 0.7 to 2 cm from the point O. O of the auxiliary line 3 for lines
A shoulder suture line that intersects the upper collar score line length auxiliary line 4 from a point P that is away from the point by a distance corresponding to the distance between the back suture line and the shoulder suture line and is substantially parallel to the upper collar left and right suture lines 2. A position auxiliary line 6 is drawn, and an upper collar width point O ″ corresponding to the upper collar width dimension at the time of folding back from the point O to the upper collar left and right suture lines 2 is obtained, and the shoulder suture position auxiliary line 6 is obtained. A point Q within 1/2 of the distance between the edge line auxiliary line 3 and the upper collar line length auxiliary line 4 is obtained from the point P, and the points Q to O
A point S having the same length as O ″ is obtained on the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6, the point S is connected to the point O ″, and a dorsal fold line 7 is drawn. A point T having the same length as O ′ to O ″ is obtained on the auxiliary line 6 for shoulder suture line position, the point M is connected to the point O ′, and a collar line 8 is drawn. ~ O ''
A point N ′ having the same length as that on the shoulder suture line position auxiliary line 6; and (B) a step different from the step (A) The suture line 5 of the
A shoulder suture extension line 9 extended from the above is drawn, and an intersection point N ″ between the shoulder suture extension line 9 and the label return extension line 12 which is an extension of the label return line 11 of the label 10 is obtained, and the label 1
The step of making the upper collar nick line 14 on the 0 gorge line 13 and making a copying diagram in which the tip is the upper neck nick point G (C) for the copy made in the above (A) step The above N'point of the diagram is superposed on the N '' point of the copied diagram created in the step (B), and the copied diagram is rotated around the N'point as a base to assist the edge line. A point G ′ at which the line 3 intersects the point G is obtained, and in that state, from the upper neck line 14 of the copy line and the upper line line 14 of the gorge line 13 in the copy line. Copy up to the tip X, connect the tip and the point T with an arcuate line to form the gougly line 15, and further copy the label 10 side of the label folding extension line 12 and pass through the point S or its vicinity and the spine. The side fold line 7 is connected to form the fold line 16, and the auxiliary line 3 for the edge line is added from the point G '.
By making an edge line 17 by drawing an arc-shaped line that smoothly touches to, a pattern is created by having a step of making a diagram on the left and right sides of the upper collar in the expanded state in the above-mentioned diagram for copying, and using the pattern When creating a base collar and a front collar, and when creating an upper collar from the base collar and the front collar, a collar surrounded by the origami line 16, the agori line 15, the collar line 8 and the left and right suture lines 2 of the pattern. A method for manufacturing an upper collar of clothes in which the portion corresponding to the waist 20 is stretched to improve the familiarity between the ground collar and the front collar.