JPH0649727A - Specific combined filament yarn of polyester - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a polyester multifilament yarn having worsted fabric-like soft swelling feeling, free from shiner, deeply dyeable and suitable for heavy- gage woven and knitted fabric. CONSTITUTION:The objective specific combined filament yarn of polyester is characterized in that the yarn is combined filament yarn consisting of at least three kinds of polyester multifilaments of high shrinkage yarn, middle shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn which are different in boiling point shrinkage and these polyester multifilament satisfy the following conditions (a) to (c) and the high shrinkage yarn and the middle shrinkage yarn form the core part in combined state and the low shrinkage yarn forms the sheath part and 20-60/m interlacing is applied to whole the combined filament yarn. (a) Boiling water shrinkage of high shrinkage yarn is 40-15% and boiling water shrinkage of middle shrinkage yarn is 20-8% and boiling water shrinkage of low shrinkage yarn is 15-5%, (b) at least high shrinkage yarn is triangular to heptagonal modified cross-section yarn and (c) low shrinkage yarn is a non- modified cross section yarn spun and wound at a rate of >=3500m/min and having 0.05-0.12 birefringence index (DELTAn) and 70-20g/d Young's modulus.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament mixed yarn. More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyester special mixed yarn which is suitable for medium-thickness woven or knitted fabric, which has a soft bulging feeling and has a deep dyeing property without unevenness.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester multifilament fibers are widely used in the field of clothing because of their excellent properties, and various methods for changing the form of yarn have been proposed. As a method of imparting bulkiness, false twisting, indentation,
In addition to spraying, etc., interlace or Taslan method can be used to mix two or more filament groups,
There is a method of covering. As a method of changing the gloss and the touch, there are a method of changing the cross-sectional shape and a method of deforming the filament surface.

Various special yarns have also been proposed by combining these methods. However, until now, most of the improvements have been aimed at silky thin garments. For example, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 56-128331 discloses a special silky bulky yarn and a method for producing the same, which is a fluid treatment for forming a core and a sheath. There has been proposed a method for controlling the denier, yarn difference, boiling water shrinkage, and birefringence of the core yarn yarn and the sheath yarn yarn of the bulky processed yarn.

However, in recent years, polyester multifilaments have been used in the field of worsted woven and knitted fabrics for medium-thickness materials, that is, for clothing for autumn and winter, and in the field, tension, waist, and drape have been developed. In addition to the properties, soft bulkiness and deep dyeability are required. In response to this requirement, the silky improved yarn for thin garments as disclosed in JP-A-56-128331 could not obtain soft bulkiness while maintaining tension and waist.

For clothing for autumn and winter, for example, in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. 1-282357, a group of at least three polyester multifilaments having different filament fineness is used, and the core portion has a denier of 6.5 to 11 and a sheath. The fineness of the sheath is 2.5 to 4.5 denier and the fineness of the sheath is 0.7
-2 denier, false twisted composite with fineness ratio between core and sheath, fineness ratio between medium fineness filament group and fineness fineness filament group, and fine difference in yarn length between three types of filament groups Processed yarn has been proposed.

The above-mentioned proposal relates to a false twisted yarn used for men's outerwear for autumn and winter, which is good for a carded-like woven fabric which is excellent in soft feel, elastic resilience and natural feel. However, this proposal requires a relatively slow process called false twisting process, and fuzz and crimp spots are likely to occur due to false twisting of three or more kinds of filament groups having different denier under the same conditions. Many entanglements of 150 / m or more are required, there are many problems in terms of cost and processing control, and deep dyeing properties have not been improved.

On the other hand, in order to obtain a deep dyeing property, for example, in JP-A-54-120728, a polymer containing fine particles is melt-spun and the obtained filament yarn is treated with a solvent to form a filament yarn surface. As a method for forming fine irregularities, Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-11709 proposes to form irregularities on the surface of the filament yarn by plasma treatment.

However, although the method of imparting fine irregularities to the surface of these filament yarns can certainly improve the dyeability to have deepness, it is too fine irregularities, and therefore, during winding or weaving. The unevenness is easily broken in the knitting process, and it is difficult to handle, and the manufacturing method is special, and there is a problem in terms of cost.

[0009]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to provide suitable woven and knitted fabrics of medium-thickness, suitable tension, waist and drape properties, and a soft swelling feeling and deep dyeability. It is intended to provide a polyester special mixed yarn having.

[0010]

Means for Solving the Problems That is, the present invention is as follows. A polyester multifilament having a different shrinkage rate of boiling water, which is a mixed fiber comprising at least three types of high-shrink yarn, medium-shrink yarn and low-shrink yarn, each of the above-mentioned polyester multifilaments satisfying the following conditions a to c, Moreover, the high shrinkage yarn and the medium shrinkage yarn form a core portion in a mixed fiber state, and the low shrinkage yarn forms a sheath portion, and 2
A polyester special mixed yarn, which is provided with 0 to 60 entanglements / m.

A) Boiling water shrinkage of high shrinkage yarn 40 to 15% Boiling water shrinkage of medium shrinkage yarn 20 to 8% Boiling water shrinkage of low shrinkage yarn 15 to 5% b) At least high shrinkage yarn is a trigonal to pentagonal variant Cross-section yarn c) The low-shrinkage yarn is spun at 3500 m / min or more and has a birefringence (Δn) of 0.05 to 0.12 and a Young's modulus of 7
Non-atypical cross-section yarn of 0 to 20 g / d.

The yarn structure of the polyester special mixed yarn according to the present invention has a core portion in which two kinds of polyester multifilaments having different boiling water shrinkage ratios are mixed, and then 3500 in the sheath portion.
A mixture of low orientation polyester multifilaments having a birefringence of 0.05 to 0.12, a Young's modulus of 70 to 20 g / d, and a boiling water shrinkage of 15% or less, which are spun and wound at m / min or more. Is.

The polyester special mixed yarn of the present invention is a two-layer composite mixed yarn in which a high shrinkage yarn and a medium shrinkage yarn are arranged in the core portion, and a low shrinkage circular cross-section yarn having a low Young's modulus is arranged in the sheath portion. Although it is a thread, this sheath-core type two-layer structure does not have to be a complete shape, and 70% or more, preferably 80% or more may be present in each structure portion. It is desirable that the high-shrinkage yarn and the medium-shrinkage yarn constituting the core portion used in the present invention are mixed in a mixing weight ratio in the range of 1: 3 to 3: 1. The structure is not preferable. If the structure is aligned, the bulkiness is insufficient and stains occur, and if the core-sheath structure is used, soft bulkiness cannot be obtained. Further, at least the high shrinkage yarn needs to have an irregular cross section, and the cross-sectional shape is preferably a triangular to pentagonal cross section. It is preferable that both have a triangular cross section because the bulkiness is high and the occurrence of stains is small.

The shrinkage difference between the high shrinkage yarn and the medium shrinkage yarn is preferably 6% or more. When the difference in shrinkage is small, the bulkiness is insufficient and the bulging feeling becomes poor. The number of entanglements is 20 to 60 / m
Is. When it is less than 20 pieces / m, the sheath portion and the core portion are excessively mixed when they are mixed with the sheath portion, and it is difficult to form a sheath-core type two-phase structure, which is not preferable. If it exceeds 60 pieces / m, the bulge will be insufficient.

The polyester multifilament in the sheath used in the present invention is a circular cross-section yarn having a birefringence of 0.05 to 0.12, a Young's modulus of 70 to 20 g / d, and a boiling water shrinkage of 15% or less. When the birefringence and Young's modulus exceed the above range, deep dyeing property cannot be obtained. When the birefringence and Young's modulus are lower than the above ranges, the woven and knitted fabric is liable to be deformed during mixed fiber processing and knitting. Further, in general, when the cross section is atypical, the gloss is increased except for a special shape, the surface gloss becomes strong, and a deep shade cannot be obtained. Therefore, a circular cross section yarn is preferable. Further, it is possible to add a matting agent or the like to appropriately select the gloss of the surface.

The boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament of the sheath used in the present invention is 15% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage rate of the sheath exceeds 15%, the entire special mixed fiber obtained does not have a swelling feeling and the soft feeling also deteriorates. Preferably, it is 10% or less and the shrinkage rate is smaller than that of the medium shrinkage yarn. In the polyester special mixed yarn of the present invention, the mixed yarn forming the core portion and the low shrinkage yarn forming the sheath portion are mixed by an injection processing method such as an interlace method or a Taslan method. The spray processing conditions and the yarn feeding ratio of the sheath portion and the core portion are appropriately selected so that 20 to 60 yarns / m are provided.

The polyester special mixed yarn of the present invention is preferably such that the sheath portion has a yarn length of 3 to 10% longer than the core portion. For this reason, the sheath portion has a sheath length of 3 to 3 when interlaced.
It is good to supply about 10% more. When the number of entanglements is more than 60 / m, many parts which are not sheath-core type are generated and the mixing ratio of the high shrinkage yarn is increased on the surface, and the mixing ratio is not uniform. When the woven or knitted fabric is dyed because of unevenness due to the difference in gloss, uneven dyeing occurs, and when unevenness occurs on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, deep dyeability cannot be obtained. If the number is less than 20 pieces / m, there is no overall fiber-mixing effect, and the sheath portion is likely to cause tarmi or chatter during weaving.

In general, when twisting is applied to bulky yarn, weaving and knitting properties are improved, but bulkiness is reduced. However, surprisingly, when a polyester multifilament having a birefringence of 0.5 to 0.12 and a Young's modulus of 70 to 20 g / d, which is wound up at a speed of 3500 m / min or more, is used for the sheath portion, it becomes bulky. There is no decline. By imparting the twist, the unevenness is reduced and the deep dyeing property is improved. Therefore, it is preferable to impart the twist of 300 times / m or more.

The polyester multifilament referred to in the present invention may be an ester resin and a copolymer resin thereof, and may contain additives such as a heat stabilizer and a matting agent, but they are melted from the above resins. The one obtained by spinning. The polyester multifilament used in the present invention can be obtained as follows.

In the high shrinkage yarn, 85 mol% in the polymer chain is polyethylene terephthalate, and the remaining 15 mol%.
Using a copolyester resin in which is another ester,
Using a spinneret with which a desired cross-sectional shape can be obtained, ordinary polyester multifilament production conditions, that is, a spinning speed of 100
It can be obtained at a draw ratio of 0 to 2000 m / min and about 3 times.

The medium shrinkage yarn can be obtained by using an ordinary polyester resin in the same manner as above. The low shrinkage yarn can be obtained by heat treating a yarn wound by high speed spinning at a winding speed of 3500 m / min or more at a temperature of 160 ° C. or more in a tensioned state or a non-tensed state and heat-treating.

[0022]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. The physical properties were evaluated as follows. A) Boiling water shrinkage ratio The length is calculated using the following formula from the lengths before (L ₁ ) and after (L ₂ ) the yarn is immersed in boiling water at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes.

Shrinkage rate of boiling water (%) = L ₁ −L ₂ / L ₁ × 100 B) Birefringence index Using a transmission quantitative interference microscope, green light (wavelength 549 m
μ), the refractive index n // for light oscillating parallel to the fiber axis and the refractive index n⊥ for light oscillating perpendicularly to the fiber axis are given by Δn = n //-n⊥ Represent

C) Young's modulus Strength W at 1% elongation of the yarn read from the tension extension curve
From (g), it is calculated by the following equation. Young's modulus (g / d) = W (g) / positive amount denier x 100 D) Entanglement number Take a thread of 1 m, hang it vertically with a load of 0.2 g / d, and hook a 2 g hook in the center of the thread. And hang it up and measure the number of times the hook is supported by the entanglement.

The entanglement number of the entire special mixed fiber is determined by subtracting the entanglement number of the core portion from the entanglement number measured by the above measuring method. E) Swelling feeling The fabric was evaluated by 5 panelists in three grades of goodness, smallness, and poorness by touch, softness, and volume.

F) Iraqi The fabric was visually evaluated by five panelists in four grades: none, almost none, moderately present, and yes. G) Bathochromic woven and knitted fabric, using Dianix Tuxedo Black F as the dye, 1
5% owf, PH 5, dyeing at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes, measuring L value (brightness) with a colorimeter (Macbeth 2020 type),
The L value and the visual evaluation of 5 panelists evaluated as follows.

L value of 12 or less and good evaluation of panelists; good L value of 12 or less and slightly poor evaluation of panelists; somewhat poor; other poor; bad H) Two-layer structure It was cut and photographed, and whether the layers of the core portion and the sheath portion were clearly separated was evaluated in three grades of ◯, × and Δ. (However, points other than the confounding part)

[0028]

Example 1 As a core part, a polyester multifilament 50d / 34 having a boiling water shrinkage of 35% and a triangular cross section
f and a polyester multifilament 50d / 34f having a triangular cross section with a boiling water shrinkage of 13% were mixed through an injection processing device so that the number of entanglements was 40 / m.

The mixed fiber of the obtained core was wound at a spinning speed of 5000 m / min and heat-treated at 180 ° C. to obtain a birefringence of 0.08, a Young's modulus of 56 g / d, and a boiling water shrinkage. The sheath portion of the polyester multifilament having a non-atypical cross section of 75d / 34f of 6% was fed so that the yarn length of the latter was increased by 5%, and interlaced. The obtained special mixed yarn was a substantially sheath-core type two-layer structure mixed yarn having an entanglement number of 30 / m. The polyester special mixed fiber thus obtained was used as a warp and weft to form a plain weave having a warp density of 179 yarns / inch and a weft density of 94 yarns / inch. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0030]

[Example 2] The double-layered polyester special mixed fiber obtained in Example 1 was twisted at 800 times / m, and a plain woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The results of evaluation of this woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

[0031]

[Table 1]

[0032]

[Comparative Examples 1 to 4] A special core was used under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the same core as in Example 1 was combined with a sheath having the conditions shown in Table 2 and the number of interlaced points was changed by interlacing. A mixed yarn and a plain weave were obtained. Table 2 shows the results of evaluation of the obtained special mixed yarn and the woven fabric obtained from this yarn.

[0033]

[Table 2]

[0034]

Comparative Examples 5 to 11 Special mixing was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the same sheath as in Example 1 was combined with the core shown in Table 3 as the core and the number of intertwined was changed. A yarn and a plain weave were obtained. Table 3 shows the evaluation results of the obtained special mixed yarn and the woven fabric obtained from this yarn.

[0035]

[Table 3]

[0036]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The polyester special mixed yarn of the present invention has appropriate tension, waist and drape compared to the conventional medium-thickness woven or knitted fabric, and has a combed-like soft swelling feeling, In addition, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric for medium-thick and thick products, which has no irregularity on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric and has deep color.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A mixed filament yarn comprising at least three types of polyester multifilament having different boiling water shrinkage, that is, high-shrinkage yarn, medium-shrinkage yarn, and low-shrinkage yarn, each of the above-mentioned polyester multifilaments having the following ac. Of the high shrinkage yarn and the medium shrinkage yarn forming a core portion in a mixed fiber state, the low shrinkage yarn forming a sheath portion, and 20-60 yarns / m of the whole mixed fiber yarn. Polyester special mixed yarn characterized by being entangled. a) Boiling water shrinkage rate of high shrinkage yarn 40 to 15% Boiling water shrinkage rate of medium shrinkage yarn 20 to 8% Boiling water shrinkage rate of low shrinkage yarn 15 to 5% b) At least high shrinkage yarn is a trigonal to pentagonal irregular cross-section yarn c ) The low shrinkage yarn has a birefringence index (Δn) of 0.05 to 0.12 and a Young's modulus of 7 when it is wound at 3500 m / min or more.
0 to 20 g / d non-uniform cross-section yarn