JPH07102411A - Coarse and fine yarn having weave slippage-preventive function - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a modified size fiber having weave slippage-preventive function when woven or knit and capable of producing a spun-silk-like high- grade woven or knit fabric having plush and richly bulky feeling. CONSTITUTION:A yarn is composed of modified cross-section fibers having protrusions 2 and thin grooves 3 alternatively and roughly uniformly distributing on the surfaces of the fibers. Cross-sections of the protrusions 2 and thin grooves 3 are rectangular or roughly trapezoidal and continuous in the fiber axis direction respectively. The number and size of the protrusions 2 satisfy formula I to formula III (15<=N<=35...I, 0.3<=W<=1...II, 1.5W<=H<=3W...III. In these formulae, N is the number of the protrusions, W is the width (mum) of the protrusions and H is the height (mum) of the protrusions). Further, the fiber has larger denier parts distributing at >=15/m in the direction of the fiber axis.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a thick and thin yarn which, when made into a woven or knitted fabric, has a function of preventing misalignment and is a high-quality spun silk-like woven or knitted fabric having a feeling of fluff and a rich bulge. .

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Many proposals have been made for modified cross-section fibers, and they have been applied to improve the gloss and feel of synthetic fibers. However, since most of them are manufactured by a method of spinning with irregularly shaped discharge holes, it is difficult to obtain irregularly shaped cross-section yarns having sharp edges. Therefore, even if the gloss of a woven or knitted fabric can be improved, It was not possible to improve the texture and remove the so-called waxy feeling of synthetic fibers.

Recently, as a modified cross-section fiber having a sharp edge, a polymer having different physical properties is composite-spun,
A modified fiber has been proposed in which one component is removed by utilizing the difference in the dissolution rate and the decomposition rate of the polymer that constitutes the fiber. As an example of this fiber, in JP-A-59-192709, a homo-polyester and a co-polyester are arranged at rotationally symmetric positions, and a composite fiber having a thickness in the fiber axis direction is alkali-treated, A modified cross-section fiber obtained by dissolving a part of the copolyester portion is disclosed.
However, the thick yarn with irregular cross section obtained by this technology is
Although it is possible to improve the gloss and eliminate the swelling and waxy feeling, it is not possible to give the woven or knitted fabric a fluffy feeling because there are few sharp edges.

Further, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-65506 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-9
Japanese Patent No. 1213 discloses a modified cross-section fiber composed of a stem component and a protrusion component on the circumference of the stem component. These fibers give a soft fluff texture to the fibers by separating some of the protrusion components from the stem component and further cutting the separated components, but these fibers are worn. Sometimes there is a drawback that the fluff part falls off and becomes a pill.

Woven and knitted fabrics using silk-like polyester fibers are usually subjected to alkali treatment to improve the texture.
Most of this treatment is performed after forming the cloth, and the weight is usually reduced by about 20 to 30%, but the structure and density of the cloth are designed in advance according to the weight reduction ratio. When increasing the weight reduction rate, generally, the density of the fabric is increased to deal with it, and this is to prevent misalignment of the fabric after the weight reduction treatment. However, when thin fabrics with a good texture are made by weight reduction, misalignment often occurs, and spun silk-like fibers that positively consider misalignment prevention have not been proposed yet. .

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of conventional modified cross-section fibers, and is suitable for producing a high-quality spun silk-like woven or knitted fabric having a feeling of fluff and a rich bulge. It is a technical subject to provide a thick and thin yarn having an effect of preventing misalignment due to weight reduction.

[0007]

[Means for Solving the Problems] The inventors of the present invention have arrived at the present invention as a result of extensive studies to solve the above problems.

That is, the present invention is a yarn composed of irregularly-shaped cross-section fibers in which projections and fine grooves are alternately and substantially uniformly distributed on the fiber surface, and the cross-sections of the projections and the fine grooves are It has a rectangular or trapezoidal shape and is continuous in the fiber axis direction, the number and size of the protrusions satisfy the following formulas, and have 15 or more large fineness portions in the fiber axis direction. The gist is a thick and thin yarn having the effect of preventing misalignment. 15 ≦ N ≦ 35 ──── 0.3 ≦ W ≦ 1 ──── 1.5W ≦ H ≦ 3W ──── However, N is the number of protrusions, W is the width of protrusion (μ), H is the height (μ) of the protrusion.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

As shown in FIG. 1, the modified cross-section fibers constituting the thick and thin yarn having the effect of preventing misalignment of the present invention are composed of a plurality (20 in FIG. 1) continuous on the surface of the fiber 1 in the fiber axis direction. The protrusions 2 are provided, and the same number of thin grooves 3 as the number of the protrusions 2 exist between the adjacent protrusions 2, 2.

In order to provide the fibers with the effect of preventing misalignment, which is the object of the present invention, it is necessary to make the cross-sectional shapes of the protrusions and the narrow grooves rectangular or substantially trapezoidal. If the shape of the narrow groove is a triangle, the protrusion has a trapezoidal shape in which the lengths of the bottom surface and the top surface are significantly different, which makes it difficult for the protrusion to be deformed in the fabric and reduces the effect of preventing misalignment, which is not preferable.

The number of protrusions (N) is 15 on the circumference of the fiber.
There should be ~ 35, preferably 18-25. If the number of protrusions is 14 or less, the desired fluff feeling will not be exhibited, and it will not be possible to impart a spun silk-like feel to the fabric. On the other hand, when the number of protrusions is 36 or more, the texture does not have a fluffy feeling, and the desired texture cannot be obtained with stone wash or peach face tone.

Next, the relationship between the width W and the height H of the protrusions of the modified cross-section fibers constituting the thick yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. 3, which is a partially enlarged cross-sectional view of the modified cross-section fibers. .
In FIG. 3, the line on the side surface of the protrusion is extended, the intersections of the circumscribed circles at the vertices of the protrusions are designated as A and B, and the intersections of the inscribed circle at the deepest portion of the narrow groove are designated as A ′ and B ′. Further, the midpoints of the line segment AB and the line segment A'-B 'are defined as D and D'. (a) The width W of the protrusion is the length of the line segment AB. (b) Height of protrusion H Length of line segment DD ′.

In the modified cross-section fiber constituting the thick and thin yarn of the present invention, the width W (μm) and the height H (μm) of the protrusions must satisfy the above formula. That is, the width W of the protrusion
Should be in the range of 0.3 to 1 μm. If the width W of the protrusions is less than 0.3 μm, the fibers become fibrillated when worn, or the peach face feels, which is not preferable because the desired span silk-like feel cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when it exceeds 1 μm, a feeling of roughness is generated, which is not preferable.

[0015]
Next, the height H of the protrusion is related to the width W of the protrusion and needs to be in the range of 1.5 to 3 times the width W of the protrusion. If the height H of the protrusion is less than 1.5 times the width W, the effect of preventing misalignment becomes poor. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3 times, the texture does not have a span silk tone and the desired texture cannot be obtained, which is not preferable.

Although it is not clear why the height H and the width W of the protrusions satisfy the above-mentioned formulas, the effect of preventing misalignment is not clear, but it is recognized that the reason is as follows. That is, when a fabric in which other fibers intersect at right angles to the modified cross-section fiber constituting the thick yarn of the present invention, the height H of the protrusion is less than 1.5 times the width W of the protrusion. Since the deformation of the protrusion due to the force of the intersecting fibers is small, the gripping force with the orthogonal fibers is small. On the other hand, when the height H of the protrusion becomes more than 1.5 times the width W of the protrusion, the protrusion is deformed and the gripping force is increased. Therefore, even if the weight reduction rate is high, the gripping force is stable and the effect of preventing misalignment can be exerted.

The thick and thin yarn of the present invention is composed of a plurality of modified cross-section fibers, and at the same time it has a projection and a thin groove continuous in the fiber direction on the surface of the modified cross-section fiber, and at the same time the state of the thick and thin yarn Therefore, it is necessary to have 15 or more large fineness portions in the fiber axis direction. Due to the presence of a large fineness portion in the thin yarn,
It has the natural appearance of natural fibers, and when you slide the surface of the fabric obtained by weaving and knitting with your fingertips, a slight unevenness is generated,
A rich swelling feeling can be imparted.

In order to impart the above-mentioned effect to the cloth, the number of large fineness portions existing in the fiber axis direction must be 15 pieces / m or more. Since the parts are roughly dispersed, the pattern becomes non-uniform due to the presence of the large fineness part in the length direction or the lateral direction of the fabric, and the quality is remarkably deteriorated. Further, when a cloth using this yarn is slid with a fingertip, a feeling of foreign matter is felt, which is not preferable.

In the present invention, a thick thin yarn is formed in any cross-sectional direction of the yarn as long as it has a large fineness portion of 15 / m or more in the fiber axis direction in the state of the thick thin yarn. Although all the modified cross-section fibers may have a large fineness portion or some modified cross-section fibers may have a large fineness portion, in order to operate efficiently during weaving or in the preparation stage process, ，
It is preferable that the large-fineness portion and the fine-fineness portion are present at random, and particularly when the false twist crimping process is performed, yarn breakage due to fusion of the large-fineness portion can be prevented. Furthermore, the thick yarn of the present invention is
Since the false twist crimping process and the alkali weight reduction process may be performed after weaving and weaving, it is preferable that the large fineness portion has heat resistance or chemical resistance performance. It is preferable to wind the yarn at a speed and produce a thick thin yarn from a semi-undrawn yarn or the like which is highly oriented in advance.

The thick and thin yarn of the present invention can be applied to fibers of polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic, etc., among which polyester fibers are preferred. As the polyester, not only homopolyester but also ordinary copolyester may be used. In addition to the above polyester, commonly used additives, matting agents, antistatic agents, antioxidants, etc. are added. It may be one.

Next, an example of a method of manufacturing a thick and thin yarn having the effect of preventing misalignment of the present invention will be described.

First, there are two kinds of easily-eluting component α and hardly-eluting component β, which are polymers having different solubilities in solvents such as alkali.
The components are composite-spun and then stretched, and the difficultly-eluting component β as shown in Fig. 2 becomes the core component, and the easily-eluting component α becomes the sheath component. Both the core component and the sheath component are 15 to 35 (in Fig. 2, A thick and thin yarn composed of composite fibers having (20) U-shaped portions is obtained. Next, the obtained thick and thin thread is treated with a solvent such as alkali to elute the easily-eluted component α, and 15 to 35 (20 in FIG. 1) protrusions and fine particles as shown in FIG. A thick and thin yarn of the present invention composed of a modified cross-section fiber having grooves is obtained.

The easily-eluting component α used in the above is preferably one having a dissolution rate in an alkaline aqueous solution which is 5 times or more faster than that of the hardly-eluting component β. Therefore, for example, in the case of polyester fiber, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is used as the difficult-to-dissolve component β, and PET in which 2.5 mol or more of a sulfonic acid metal salt is copolymerized as the easily-eluting component α or a relatively high content with the sulfonic acid metal salt It is preferable to use PET or the like in which a predetermined amount of a polyalkylene glycol having a molecular weight is copolymerized. Also, if the ratio of the easily eluted component α becomes too large,
Since the effect of preventing misalignment is reduced and the cost is increased, the easily eluted component α is preferably 30% by weight or less.

In order to obtain a thick and thin yarn from a composite-spun yarn, a known method can be adopted. For example, when an undrawn yarn or a semi-undrawn yarn is drawn, a friction resistance body is formed in the drawn region. There is a method of contact. Further, as the friction resistor used in the above, a ceramic mainly composed of alumina, titanium oxide, etc., a chrome-plated matte-finished steel, etc. formed in a cylindrical shape are generally used, and heating or cooling is performed as necessary. To be done.

FIG. 4 is a schematic process diagram of a stretching device used in the above stretching process. In FIG. 4, the semi-undrawn yarn 4 is wrapped around the supply roller 5 several times, and then runs while coming into contact with the cylindrical friction resistor 6 and reaches the drawing roller 7.
It is drawn by the drawing roller 7 in a state of being wrapped several times to form a thick and thin thread, which is subsequently wound up by the pan 8. In this case, a large fineness portion is developed by the friction resistor 6, and the number of large fineness portions can be adjusted by changing the distance D between the friction resistor 6 and the stretching roller 7.

The thick and thin yarn of the present invention can be used not only as a raw yarn but also as a yarn which has been subjected to various processes such as false twisting, strong twisting, air entanglement treatment, and the like. It is preferable to use a natural yarn which is hard to develop a spun silk-like texture.

[0027]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. Each evaluation in the examples was performed by the following methods. (1) Relative viscosity Using an equal weight solvent of phenol and ethane tetrachloride,
It was measured at 0.5 g / dl and a temperature of 20 ° C. (2) Dimensions of protrusions Weaving the yarn in a cylinder, NaOH concentration 20g / l, treatment temperature 90 ℃,
After removing the easily eluted components completely by reducing the alkali under the treatment time of 30 minutes, the tubular knitted fabric which was washed with water and dried was disassembled, and the deformed cross-section fibers constituting the obtained yarn were photographed with a scanning electron microscope. I took it and measured it on the photo. (3) Number of large fineness portion A yarn having a large fineness portion partially in the fiber axis direction was measured with an Ibnestester manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd., yarn speed 8 m / min, chart speed 0.25 m / min, sensitivity ± 50. The thickness unevenness was measured for 8 m under the condition of%, peaks exceeding 10% were counted with respect to the waveform of the base, and converted per 1 m to obtain the number of thick fine portions. (4) Six fabric samples with a misalignment of 10 cm x 25 cm (3 for warp direction, 3 for weft direction) were sandwiched between the holders and fixed by applying tension with a load of 2230g, and then the holders were cut into the groove of the cross bar. The cloth sample was sandwiched between rubber rollers, a load of 0.9 kg was applied, and the crank was rotated twice at a speed of 30 rpm. The fabric sample was then carefully removed from the holder and the largest location between the misaligned threads was measured with a vernier caliper to 0.1 mm units. Three pieces were measured in each of the warp and weft directions, the average value was calculated, and evaluation was performed in the following three stages. A: Very good with less than 4 mm, B: Good with 4 mm to 8 mm, and bad with more than C: 8 mm. (5) Spun-silk-like texture We asked 10 panelists consisting of weaving, knitting, and dyeing engineers to evaluate the span-silk-like texture, which has a fluffy and rich swelling of the fabric, on a three-point scale, and averaged it. It was evaluated by. A: Very good, B: Good, C: Poor (6) Comprehensive evaluation Evaluation was performed by taking into account the effect of preventing misalignment and the effect of feeling, and was ranked in three levels. A: Very good, B: Good, C: Poor

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 PET having a relative viscosity of 1.38 was used as a difficult-to-dissolve component, and PET having a relative viscosity of 1.27, which was obtained by copolymerizing 4 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an easily-eluting component, was used. I was there. With a composite ratio of 80/20 by weight of difficult-to-dissolve component and easy-to-dissolve component, and with various changes in the number of protrusions formed after alkali weight reduction, spinning speed 3000 m / min, spinning temperature 290 ° C,
Composite spinning was performed with a nozzle plate having a spinneret with 48 holes at a discharge rate of 43 g / min, and a semi-undrawn yarn was wound up.

Then, the obtained semi-undrawn yarn was drawn by a drawing device shown in FIG. 4 to obtain a thick and thin yarn. In this case, the semi-unstretched yarn 4 is wrapped around the supply roller 5 and the stretching roller 7 several times, and a cylindrical frictional resistor 6 is interposed between them to stretch at a ratio of 1.35 to form a large fineness portion, and a pan 8 I wound it up.

The obtained thick and thin yarn was cylindrically knitted, and after alkali weight reduction, the shape was observed with an electron microscope. As a result, the single yarn constituting the yarn has a protrusion as shown in Table 1. It was a modified cross-section fiber. Table 1 also shows the number of large fineness portions formed on the thick thin yarn.

This thick and thin yarn is used for the warp and the weft, and the warp density is 1
Weaved in a habutae with 10 yarns / 2.54cm, weft density 78 yarns / 2.54cm,
The obtained woven fabric was treated with a NaOH concentration of 20 g / l and a treatment temperature of 90.
The alkali-reduced amount was completely removed under the conditions of ℃ and treatment time of 30 minutes to completely remove easily eluted components. Using the obtained woven fabric, alkali weight loss rate, misalignment test and sensory test of spun silk texture were performed, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0032]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the woven fabrics composed of the thick and thin threads obtained in Examples 1 to 3 have less misalignment,
Moreover, it had a spun silk-like texture. On the other hand, the woven fabrics obtained in Comparative Example 1 having 10 protrusions and Comparative Example 2 having 36 protrusions had large misalignment and poor span silk feel. Even if the number of protrusions was 20, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 3 composed of thick and fine yarns having less than 15 thick fineness portions had a good effect of preventing misalignment. ， The texture was unsatisfactory, and the texture had a natural bulge and lacked the subtle unevenness.

[0034]

The thick yarn of the present invention comprises 15 yarns / fiber in the axial direction.
In addition to having a large fineness part of m or more, and specific projections and fine grooves are alternately present on the surface of the modified cross-section fibers constituting the yarn, the fabric obtained by weaving and knitting has a fluffy feeling and a rich bulge. It is possible to give a feeling of spun silk to the touch, and to increase the frictional force between fibers due to the protrusions, especially for the prevention of misalignment which is one of the drawbacks of alkali-reduced woven or knitted fabrics. It has a great effect.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing an embodiment of a modified cross-section fiber constituting the thick yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing an embodiment of the fiber before alkali reduction treatment for obtaining the above-mentioned modified cross-section fiber.

FIG. 3 is a partially enlarged schematic view of FIG.

FIG. 4 is a schematic process drawing showing an example of a stretching device for obtaining a thick thin yarn.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 fiber 2 protrusion 3 narrow groove α easily eluted component β difficultly eluted component

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A yarn comprising a modified cross-section fiber in which protrusions and narrow grooves are alternately and substantially evenly distributed on the fiber surface, wherein the protrusions and narrow grooves have a rectangular or substantially cross-section. It has a shape and is continuous in the fiber axis direction. The number and size of the protrusions satisfy the following formulas, and the number of protrusions is 15 in the fiber axis direction.
A thick and thin yarn having an effect of preventing misalignment, having a large fineness portion of not less than 1 / m. 15 ≦ N ≦ 35 ──── 0.3 ≦ W ≦ 1 ──── 1.5W ≦ H ≦ 3W ──── However, N is the number of protrusions, W is the width of protrusion (μm), H is the height (μm) of the protrusion.