JPH0735629B2 - Manufacturing method of velvet-like warp knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial field of use] The present invention relates to a method for producing a velvet-finished warp knitted fabric.

[Prior art and problems to be solved] Velvet is originally made of warp pile fabric using silk, rayon, diacetate, etc. as warp yarns, and is widely used as a high-rise woven fabric for women's clothing, men's clothing, children's clothing, interiors, etc. It is used.

However, since the structure is originally a woven fabric, it lacks stretchability, drapeability, and pile retention, and the back surface is slippery even on the sewing surface, which makes it difficult to overlap and cut, and puckering easily occurs.

The materials used are mainly silk, rayon, and diacetate, which have low thermoplasticity, and there are problems such as stacking wrinkles in the sewing fabric and contact wrinkles when worn.

In addition, since the pile is made of raw silk or sweet twisted yarn, it has a shiny metallic luster that is apt to be glared when the angle of the pile is inclined due to wearing or the like.

On the other hand, circular knitting sinker pile using raw yarn of thermoplastic fiber, warp knitting raising, warp knitting double russel, warp knitting pole knitting, circular knitting sinker pile using thermoplastic fiber crimped yarn, etc. However, they are far from velvet products due to lack of nap feeling, too much weight, lack of pile retention, and glittering metallic luster.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for manufacturing a velvet-like napped warp knitted fabric that solves the above conventional problems.

[Means for Solving the Problem] The present invention is a method for producing a velvet-like napped warp knitted fabric including the following steps (a) to (d).

(A) The number of crimps of acetate fiber yarn is 10 / cm to 40 / cm
After the false twisting process, the wound yarn is wound into a perforated tube for dyeing and dyeing, and the winding density is 0.15 to 0.6 g / cm ³ , the temperature is 20 to 60 ° C.
Aging for 24 to 72 hours at a humidity of 40 to 80% and steam setting (b) The steam set acetate false twisted fiber processed yarn is warped and used as pile fiber and polyester fiber as ground fiber Process of knitting with a warp knitting machine (c) Relaxing, raising, straightening, dyeing or knitting and dyeing of the knitted knitted fabric Pile angle is 65 degrees or more
Step of setting the angle to less than 90 degrees The fibers of the pile portion used in the present invention are acetate fibers, and triacetate fibers are particularly preferable.

The velvet-like napped warp knitted fabric obtained by the present invention has few problems such as puckering, overlapping cutting, diagonal cutting of fabric, stacking wrinkles and the like, which are generally defects in woven velvet even on the sewing surface, and ironing About the acetate fiber of the pile part, it is difficult to dry iron at medium temperature,
Since the polyester fiber that forms the gland is easy to cut, a split iron can also be made with a dry heat iron at medium temperature, and even if it hits it, it can be resolved by putting steam a few cm away from the fabric And is an excellent velvet-like napped warp knitted fabric.

In other words, ironing with pinboard, which is a costly factor in the sewing process of the woven velvet, is unnecessary, and a split iron or the like can be finished by directly applying a medium-temperature dry heat iron on the patch cloth.

Furthermore, when worn, it retains its shape and is less likely to wrinkle, making it extremely superior to woven rayon velvet.

In the present invention, the acetate fiber in the pile portion needs to be false twisted so that the number of crimps is 10 pieces / cm to 40 pieces / cm. When the number of crimps is less than 10 pieces / cm, the obtained velvet-like fluff warp knitted fabric has excessive gloss, which is not preferable. 40 more
If it exceeds / cm, the gloss becomes dull, which is not preferable.

Further, the false twisted acetate fiber needs to be wound up in a perforated tube for dyeing and dyeing at a winding density of 0.15 to 0.6 g / cm ³ . Here, when the winding density exceeds 0.6 g / cm ³ , even when using a perforated tube during steam setting, steam does not penetrate to the inner layer of the cheese, or the winding becomes hard, so that it is formed by false twisting. The number of crimps is reduced and the quality of the obtained product is lowered (less crimps result in excessive gloss). On the other hand, if the winding density is less than 0.15 g / cm ³ , problems will occur in the rolling collapse and the releasing property.

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary to aging the acetate fiber false twisted yarn wound up with a perforated tube at a temperature of 20 to 60 ° C. and a humidity of 40 to 80% for 24 to 72 hours. Aging under such conditions is a condition necessary for eliminating set spots in the subsequent steam setting. That is, when the aging temperature is less than 20 ° C., the humidity is less than 40% or the aging time is less than 24 hours, the moisture does not permeate to the inner layer portion of the cheese, and the variation in the moisture between the inner layer portion and the outer layer portion becomes large, The steam set causes a difference in settability, and warps occur in the product. On the other hand, if the aging temperature exceeds 60 ° C, the humidity exceeds 80%, or the aging time
If it exceeds 72 hours, the workability becomes poor and the cost becomes high.

Further, in the present invention, the knitted warp knitted fabric must be relaxed, napped, straightened, dyed, or after straightened and dyed, the pile angle must be 65 degrees or more and less than 90 degrees with a napping machine. There is. Here, if the pile angle is less than 65 degrees, the quality of the obtained product deteriorates, and if it is 90 degrees, the depth of the product is lost.

In this way, as a preferred form of the velvet-finished warp knitted fabric formed in the present invention, the number of crimps in the pile portion is
10 pieces / cm to 40 pieces / cm, pile angle is 65 degrees or more and less than 90 degrees, pile density is 5000 pieces / cm ^{2 to} 40,000 pieces / cm ² , pile length is 0.5
~ 2.5mm, warp knitting structure is 28G ~ 36G, 2-4BAR warp knitting satin structure with a swing of 1/4 ~ 1/7.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples.

[Example 1] A triacetate filament yarn of bright 75 denier 20 filaments was used as the fiber of the pile portion, and the triacetate yarn was false twisted with a 2 heater false twisting machine at a twist number of 2100 T / M. Aging was performed for 72 hours at 65 ° C. and 65 ° C. The winding density was 0.33 g / cm ³ .

The false twisted cheese tube used at that time was a perforated resin tube used for dyeing the yarn in order to allow water and steam to penetrate into the cheese inner layer.

Next, after steam-setting at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes, the warp knitting beam was warped and then knitted with a Meyer KE3 28G warp knitting machine.

On the other hand, a polyester denier 30 denier 12 filament was used as the fiber of the gland part, and it was put on the warp knitting machine.

Knitting organization is Front 1-0.6-7 Middle 1-0.1-2
Back 1-0.2-3, knitting density at this time is 28 warps / in
ch, weft 80 lines / inch. The knitting speed is 450 rpm, which is about the same as a normal warp knitting product.

The knitted fabric was relaxed with hot water at 90 ° C., dried, intermediately set, tacked on the satin portion inside, and dyed with a high-pressure jet dyeing machine at a bath ratio of 1:25. Attach a raising agent to the knitted fabric,
After brushing the satin portion 3 to 6 times and straightening the hair, JP-A-57-161159
Pile angle averaged 45 degrees → average
I made it to 75 degrees. At that time, the processing temperature was 190 to 210 ° C, and the dough speed was 3 m / min.

Next, tentering, straightening, and finishing set at 170 ° C were performed. At that time, the number of crimps in the pile part was 21 pieces / cm on average, the pile angle was 80 degrees on average, the pile density was 8850 pieces / cm ² , the pile length was 1.5 mm on average, and the basis weight was 280 g / m ² , and the warp density was 42 wells / inc
h, weft density was 68 courses / inch.

The resulting knitted fabric had fine crimps in the pile portion, high-grade cotton velvet-like gloss, depth, and appropriate drapeability.

Even on the sewing side, there are few problems such as puckering, stack cutting, diagonal cutting of fabric, stacking wrinkles, which are generally defects in woven velvet, and for ironing, the triacetate fiber in the pile part is dry heat at medium temperature. It is hard to iron, and the polyester fiber that forms the gland is easy to pull, so you can also use a split iron with a dry heat iron at medium temperature, and even if it hits, steam is placed a few cm away from the fabric I found that I could solve it if I did it.

In other words, ironing with pinboard, which is a factor of high cost in the sewing process with woven velvet, is unnecessary, and it is possible to finish split iron etc. by directly applying a medium-temperature dry heat iron on the patch cloth.

Further, it was found that it is very superior to the woven rayon velvet in that the shape and wrinkle hardly occur when worn.

Example 2 Triacetate filament yarn of bright 75 denier 30 filament was used as the fiber of the pile portion. The triacetate yarn was false twisted with a 2 heater false twisting machine at a twist number of 2100 T / M, and this false twist cheese was aged as in Example 1.

The false twist cheese tube used was a perforated resin tube.

Next, after steam-setting for 40 minutes at 130 ° C., the warp knitting beam was warped, and then knitted with a Meyer KE3 28G warp knitting machine.

On the other hand, polyester semi-dall 30 denier 12 filaments were used as the fibers for the middle and back bars of the ground part, and they were run on the same warp knitting machine.

Knitting organization is front 1-0.5-6 middle 1-0.1-2
The back is 1-2.1-0. The knitting density at this time is 28
Book / inch, weft 78 / inch, knitting speed is 450 rpm, which is about the same as a normal warp knitting product.

This knitted fabric is relaxed and dried with hot water at 90 ° C, a raising agent is attached, and the satin part is raised twice, set, and straightened, and then tacked so that the pile surface is inward and the dyeing liquid flows normally. Then, it was dyed with a high-pressure jet dyeing machine at a bath ratio of 1:30. Then, the waste fluff was removed in the dyeing machine, and the fluff was distributed in a certain direction by the dyeing solution, and a glossy panel-velvet-like fabric was completed.

The dyed and finished fabric is straightened again, a finishing agent is attached, and the fabric is subjected to a nap processing machine in the same manner as in Example 1, and the pile angle is averaged to 30.
The degree was changed to 70 degrees on average. The processing temperature at that time is 190-210 ℃
The fabric speed was 3 m / min. And the width
The hair was set and finished at 180 ° C.

The average number of crimps in the pile of the finished knitted fabric is 21 / c
m, pile angle average 75 degrees, pile density average 11250 /
cm ² , pile length 1.4 mm on average, basis weight 220 g / m ² , warp density 3
There were 9 wells / inch and weft density 62 courses / inch.

Further, the pile portion has fine crimps and has silky luster and depth, and is superior in weft stretch, drape, pile holding power to conventional silk and rayon fabric velvet, and there is no difference in high-class feeling.

Since this product is composed of thermoplastic fibers, the shipping form of the finished fabric may be a normal roll-wrapped suspended package instead of the conventional pin-wrapped and air-suspended package such as woven velvet.

Also, the wrinkles generated around the inner layer of the roll could be eliminated by applying steam several cm away from the dough.

[Advantages of the Invention] According to the present invention configured as described above, fine crimps are present in the pile to exhibit high-grade velvet-like luster and depth,
Moreover, compared with the conventional velvet, the effect that a warp knitted fabric with superior drape and stretchability can be obtained, and the ironing with pinboard, which is a costly factor in the sewing process of the woven velvet, is unnecessary, By directly applying a medium-temperature dry heat iron from the top, the effect of making a split iron etc. can be achieved, and further, the effect is that it does not lose its shape or wrinkle when worn.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A method for producing a velvet-like napped warp knitted fabric comprising the following steps (a) to (d). (B) After false twisting the acetate fiber yarn, wind it into a perforated tube for dyeing and dyeing, winding density 0.15 to 0.6 g / cm ³ ,
Process of aging and steam setting for 24 to 72 hours at a temperature of 20 to 60 ° C and humidity of 40 to 80% (b) Warp the steam set acetate false twisted fiber processed yarn and use it as the fiber of the pile part Step of knitting with a warp knitting machine using polyester fiber as fiber (c) Relaxing, raising, straightening, dyeing or knitting, dyeing of the knitted knitted fabric (d) Dyeing A pile angle of 65 degrees or more with a raised hair processing machine
Process below 90 degrees 2. The method for producing a velvet-finished warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the acetate fibers in the pile portion are triacetate fibers.