JPH09228168A - Composite processed yarns and woven and knitted fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) Abstract: A composite textured yarn comprising at least two constituent yarns A and B having false twist crimps, wherein the two constituent yarns are at least a yarn length difference and a shrinkage ratio. One of the differences is that at least the short yarn length and the monofilament constituting the constituent yarn B having a large shrinkage ratio has a thick portion and a thin portion which gradually change along the yarn axis direction. Composite processed yarns and woven and knitted fabrics. [Effects] According to the present invention, a yarn having excellent tension, waist, repulsion and soft texture, for example, the performance of a worsted knitted woven fabric, can be realized by the yarn of the present invention depending on the way of designing the material. it can. Moreover, since the cross-sectional deformation is not large, the glitter can be improved.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a composite processed yarn in which constituent yarns have a difference in shrinkage with each other, and more particularly to a composite processed yarn and a woven / knitted fabric which are soft and have a good elasticity and a high resilience.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a composite processed yarn having a core-sheath structure obtained by aligning two yarns having different elongations and false twisting them is well known. According to this method, a composite crimped yarn with a high crimp and a high bulkiness having a core-sheath two-layer structure in which a low-elongation yarn forms a core portion and a high-elongation yarn forms a sheath portion, It is commonly used as a material for differentiating worsted woven and knitted fabrics.

On the other hand, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 6-57562 discloses that
Manufacturing a composite yarn excellent in bulkiness and softness by making a difference in the feed rate between two yarns and winding a yarn with a small feed rate around a yarn with a large feed rate between a false twist heater and a spindle. A method is disclosed.

[0004]

However, according to the above-mentioned methods, a composite crimped yarn having a high crimp and a high bulkiness is produced, and therefore, a glitter which is a problem in fluffing and aesthetics is generated in the texture. There was such a problem.
Of course, since it is a medium-strength twisted product, there is a problem such as insufficient heat retention, which is important for wearing feeling in autumn and winter clothing. Therefore, in the former case, it is the actual situation that the medium-strength post-twisting is used, and in the latter case, the polygon cross-section yarn is used, and it is difficult to say that the level is necessarily satisfactory. Therefore, there is a problem in that it is not sufficient for use as a full-fledged worsted medium-thickness woven fabric that has the tension, waist, repulsion, heat retention, etc. seen in wool texture.

[0005]

The composite textured yarn of the present invention has the following constitution in order to solve the above problems.

That is, at least two having false twist crimps.
A composite processed yarn composed of two constituent yarns A and B, wherein the two constituent yarns have at least one of a yarn length difference and a shrinkage ratio difference, and at least have a short yarn length and a large shrinkage ratio. The composite processed yarn is characterized in that the monofilament that constitutes the constituent yarn B has a thick portion and a thin portion that gradually change along the yarn axis direction.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The composite processed yarn of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings.

The composite processed yarn of the present invention comprises at least two constituent yarns A and B having false twist crimps.

In the present invention, the constituent yarn has a false twist crimp, and without the false twist crimp, there is a problem that the bulkiness and the volume feeling are insufficient and the cloth becomes papery.

Further, in the present invention, the two constituent yarns A and B having false twist crimps have at least one of the difference in yarn length and the difference in shrinkage. If there is no difference in shrinkage, the constituent yarn having a large shrinkage rate becomes the core portion by the heat treatment such as scouring and setting in the dyeing step after weaving and knitting, and the constituent yarn having a small shrinkage rate forms the sheath portion. There is a problem that it is difficult to form a composite form having a two-layer sheath structure. In the present invention, a desired cloth can be obtained by appropriately using the yarns to be the core and the sheath, depending on the purpose and application.

Further, from the viewpoint of adjusting the feeling of increasing the volume feeling of the cloth and preventing it from becoming coarse and hard, the difference in hot water shrinkage is preferably 5 to 85%.

If the difference in hot water shrinkage is less than 5%, the volume feeling tends to be insufficient, and the effects of beam, waist, repulsion and the like tend not to be exhibited. On the other hand, if it exceeds 85%, the weaving width of the woven fabric must be widened, and the loom tends to be limited.

It is more preferably 5 to 60%.

However, since there is a limit in obtaining a fabric having a high feeling only by the difference in shrinkage ratio, in the present invention, the constituent yarn B on the high shrinkage side which is the core yarn of the composite yarn is at least along the yarn axis direction. Has a gradually changing thick or thin portion, a thick bumpy portion, or a portion having streak-shaped indentations,
With such a fine structure, it is possible to provide minute voids, which are indispensable for producing a highly repulsive texture, among the single fibers of the constituent fibers.

The internal strain of the single fiber can be confirmed by the presence of interference fringes by observing under a crossed Nicols using a polarization microscope.

In the present invention, the thick bumpy portion or the portion having streak-shaped indentations means B ₁ and B ₂ in FIGS. 1 and 2.

The peculiar structure of these monofilaments is not so clear in the false twisted yarn, but is manifested by a heat treatment or the like in the subsequent step, and the peculiar structure is remarkably exhibited. Generally, in the dyeing and finishing process of a woven or knitted material, heat treatment by dry heat or wet heat such as scouring, setting and dyeing is performed, and the peculiar structure is revealed by the heat treatment after forming the fabric, and the single fibers of the constituent yarns are separated from each other. By forming minute voids and gaps in the surface, tension, waist, and resilience are imparted. Furthermore, by causing shrinkage behavior accompanied by structural changes and morphological changes when the large details are exposed, microspaces are formed between fibers of constituent yarns, between single fibers, and between tissues of a fabric. And the shift is generated, and the texture can be further improved. Further, the texture can be further improved by the synergistic effect with the core-sheath structure due to the difference in shrinkage between the constituent yarns.

Further, the indentation has a fine streak structure at the level of the diameter of the single fiber, and by having such a fine streak structure, the glitter generated by the cross-sectional deformation peculiar to the false twisted yarn is obtained. Can be improved.

It is also preferable that the composite textured yarn of the present invention has a portion in which the birefringence changes substantially periodically at a pitch of 0.2 to 20 mm.

When the pitch of the birefringence is less than 0.2 mm or more than 20 mm, the knitted and knitted woven or knitted fabric does not exhibit voids between the fibers, and the highly repulsive woven and knitted fabric aimed at by the present invention is obtained. Tends to not be able to get. A more preferable birefringence index pitch is in the range of 0.3 to 12 mm.

The composite processed yarn of the present invention has the same characteristics as the worsted fabric, that is, the heat retention due to the inter-fiber voids, the softness, the tension, the elasticity and the resilience are obtained, and the yarn breakage occurs during the production of the composite processed yarn. From the viewpoint of preventing the above and improving the operability, the ratio of the total fineness of the constituent yarn A and the constituent yarn B is preferably 10:90 to 90:10, and particularly from the viewpoint of improving the operability, 30:70.
It is preferably in the range of to 70:30.

Further, the composite processed yarn of the present invention, from the viewpoint of exhibiting strong tension, waist and resilience inside the woven or knitted fabric, and soft texture on the surface portion of the woven or knitted fabric, the constituent yarn B
It is preferable that the average fineness of the monofilaments constituting the above is larger than the average fineness of the monofilaments constituting the constituting yarn A, and that the total fineness of the constituting yarn B is larger than the total fineness of the constituting yarn A.

FIGS. 1 to 3 are photomicrographs showing an example of the side surface morphology of the constituent yarn B constituting the composite yarn of the present invention after heat treatment.

In FIG. 1, the monofilaments constituting the constituent yarn B have thick details that gradually change along the yarn axis direction of the monofilaments, and the thick and thin forms are false-twisted yarns. However, it does not appear so clearly, but since it is revealed by subsequent heat treatment, the part with small heat shrinkage does not change so much, the large part becomes thicker, and the so-called shrinkage difference becomes significant Is formed.

It is also preferable that streak-shaped indentations are present on a part of the single fiber. It is also preferable that the indentation is given by another fiber in the false twisting and twisting step. FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of the streak-shaped indented portion B ₂ in FIG.

In FIG. 3, the monofilament constituting the constituent yarn B has not only a thick detail formed by gradually changing along the yarn axis direction of the monofilament but also a hump-shaped thick portion B ₁ and a streak-shaped indented portion B. _Two
Also have.

The composite yarn of the present invention preferably contains monofilaments having extremely fine characteristic morphological changes, as shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, from the viewpoint of further revealing the morphological changes by heat treatment in the dyeing and finishing step. .

As described above, the composite processed yarn of the present invention exhibits a two-dimensional gentle wavy crimp without exhibiting a dense and complicated three-dimensional crimp, and has a thick and thin shape with a short pitch in the axial direction of the single fiber. And in the radial direction, it partially has streak-shaped indentations corresponding to approximately the diameter of the single fiber.

In the present invention, the spontaneous elongation behavior is exhibited by selecting the heat treatment conditions after false twisting. In addition to the above-described characteristic impartation by shrinkage, the fibers between the constituent yarns and between the single fibers are also formed by the spontaneous elongation. Also, voids and gaps are generated in at least one of the structures of the fabric, which can contribute to the improvement of the feeling. The spontaneous elongation of the composite processed yarn of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 25%. In addition, the deformation of the cross section added in the false twist process is restored by the subsequent heat treatment due to the relaxation of the polymer structure, the sharp part peculiar to the false twist yarn is reduced, the glitter is improved and the mild luster is expressed. Can be done.

In the present invention, the crimp recovery rate of the composite yarn is preferably in the range of 2 to 30%. When the crimp recovery rate is 30% or more, the crimped yarn has a dense and three-dimensional structure, and the bulkiness and the volume feeling increase, but the peculiar fuzzy feeling of the textured yarn appears, and further, the crimp of each single fiber Tension due to obstacles and the texture and quality of the fabric tend to deteriorate due to lack of waist. Therefore, it is preferable to design the crimp recovery rate to be 30% or less, more preferably 2 to
It is in the range of 20%. By doing so, a mild wave-like crimped form such as a gentle wave-like natural wool is obtained, and the drawbacks of the conventional high crimped yarn can be eliminated.

In the composite processed yarn of the present invention, when there is a difference in yarn length between the constituent yarn A and the constituent yarn B, these constituent yarns are well organized, and the difference in the yarn length is made in the yarn axis direction. From the viewpoint of evenly dispersing and improving the surface quality of the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable to have an entanglement composed of at least two constituent yarns A and B. The entanglement improves workability, handling, processability, and the like in a post-processing step such as knitting and weaving, thereby increasing production efficiency.

The frequency of the interlacing is not particularly limited, and the texture of the fabric,
It is preferable that the quality is not adversely affected.

Further, at least two constituent yarns used in the present invention are preferably thermoplastic synthetic fibers. For example,
Polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, polyvinyl alcohol fibers, polyvinyl chloride fibers, polyvinylidene chloride fibers, polypropylene fibers, polyethylene fibers, cellulose fibers, etc. can be used, The cross-sectional shape and properties of these various fibers are not limited. Furthermore, undrawn yarn, semi-drawn yarn, drawn yarn, or monofilament and multifilament may be appropriately combined and used. From the viewpoint of obtaining a delicate high texture woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable that the composite textured yarn of the present invention has at least one of a loop, snarl, talumi and fluff due to the difference in yarn length. Further, the composite processed yarn of the present invention is 40
It is preferable to have the number of protruding fibers per piece / m or more. The term “protruding fiber” as used in the present invention refers to a fiber having a length of 1 mm or more from the fiber surface, and also includes loops, snares, talumi, fluff, and the like. The measurement of the protruding fibers was performed using a fluff counter (manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd., model: DT-104) under a yarn speed of 50 m / min and a tension of 0.1 g / d.

Further, in order to adjust the shrinkage ratio of the composite textured yarn of the present invention, after the shrinkage ratio is adjusted by heat treatment in any step after false twisting, a post-process such as a weaving / weaving process is performed. You can

FIG. 4 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of the method for producing the composite textured yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 4, the yarn A and the yarn B are separately supplied to the first roller 1 and the first roller 2, respectively, and then the hot plate 3, the cooling plate 7, the false twist rotor with the second roller 9. The false twisting process is performed via 8 and the two yarns are bundled by the entanglement nozzle 10 to form the package 12
Take up as. In this case, the first roller 1 and the first roller 1
The rollers 2 may have the same speed or different speeds, and may be set appropriately depending on the characteristics of the supplied yarn, the stability of processing, and the like.

In the present invention, it is preferable to provide a temperature difference between the yarns A and B in the vicinity of the upstream of the confluence of the yarns.
The temperature difference is preferably 10 ° C or higher and 220 ° C or lower,
More preferably, it is in the range of 70 ° C or higher and 160 ° C or lower.

More specifically, the low temperature yarn is preferably in the range of 5 ° C. to 90 ° C., and the high temperature yarn is 80 ° C.
It is preferably in the range of 225 ° C or lower.

The yarn A is heated by the hot plate 3, and the yarn B is
It can also be preferably carried out to supply a temperature difference between both yarns by supplying at room temperature. In the present invention, the yarn A and the yarn B having a temperature difference are twisted at the confluence point P. That is, it is preferable to heat the low temperature yarn by the high temperature yarn after the confluence. By doing so, the heat exchange between the yarns having the temperature difference can be performed in the false twisting and twisting state. This means that a heat treatment with an extremely short pitch (generally equivalent to the twist pitch) is performed. More specifically, by the heat treatment, the high temperature yarn heats the low temperature yarn by heat transfer due to heat conduction, and at the same time, the high temperature yarn is subjected to the cooling action by the low temperature yarn. obtain. This allows the low temperature yarns to be non-uniformly heated diametrically and / or axially.

In the present invention, the fiber migration due to twisting may cause uneven heating in the yarn axis direction. The heat treatment causes an internal structure, a fiber shape, or a morphological change in and between the single fibers in the yarn axis direction, and the unevenness of the single fiber in the yarn axis direction is large and small, uneven portions and short-term shrinkage. A dense three-dimensional crimp obtained by a conventional false twisting process, which can include a difference portion or a thick portion having a hump shape, and further, a linear indentation portion in a radial direction of a single yarn or a yarn. It can exhibit a two-dimensional gentle wavy crimp different from.

With regard to the physical properties of the fiber, a yarn having different shrinkage and Young's modulus levels can be obtained with an extremely short pitch in the yarn axis direction of the single fiber. On the other hand, in the radial direction, it is possible to obtain a characteristic yarn having a streak-like indentation partially corresponding to substantially the diameter of a single fiber, which is generated by a tightening pressing action between the yarns by twisting. Thus, the yarns that have been heat-treated in the single fiber and in the single fiber non-uniformly in the yarn axis direction are subjected to heat treatment in a later step, for example, wet heat or dry heat after weaving or weaving, resulting in a short period of morphological difference, shrinkage difference, winding difference. A woven or knitted fabric having a characteristic can be obtained because it becomes possible to express a reduction difference and the like.

The cooling plate 7 efficiently cools and fixes the structure imparted by false twisting, regulates the yarn path at the time of processing, prevents vibration, etc., and enables stable processing. However, it is not essential to use such a cooling plate.

In order to give a temperature difference to each yarn supplied in the present invention, only one yarn may be heated and the other yarn may be used at room temperature (room temperature) as shown in FIG. Also, even if the yarns to be supplied are both heated, it is sufficient that there is a temperature difference between the yarns at the confluence. As a heating method, a method such as a dry heating plate or hollow heating, which is the same as the usual false twisting process, can be used. Of course, the heat medium can be appropriately selected. Further, as the false twist rotor used in the present invention, any of an external contact type false false twist device, a belt nip false twist device, and a spindle false twist device can be used. It is preferable to select it appropriately according to the processing conditions such as the number of twists. Further, the present invention is a combination of at least two or more yarns. For example, when three yarns are combined, all three yarns may have a temperature difference, two yarns have the same temperature, and the other yarns have the same temperature.
The books can be appropriately combined such that the temperature is higher or lower than the two temperatures. Further, the polymers constituting these yarns may be different from each other in the three yarns, or may be the same polymer.

Next, a woven or knitted fabric using the composite processed yarn of the present invention will be described.

Since the composite processed yarn of the present invention can have minute voids between the single fibers of the constituent fibers by taking the fine structure as described above, the woven or knitted fabric using the composite processed yarn is stretched, Waist and resilience may be imparted.

Further, from the viewpoint of imparting roundness to the composite processed yarn, and from the viewpoint of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having a texture such as a crispness,
From the viewpoint of improving process passability, 5 to 3000 times / m
It is also preferable to carry out additional twisting in the S direction or the Z direction.

[0046]

EXAMPLES The composite processed yarn of the present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples and comparative examples.

The hot water shrinkage rate, crimp restoration rate and spontaneous elongation rate were determined by the following methods. [Hot water shrinkage rate and crimp restoration rate] JIS L-1090
It measured according to. [Spontaneous elongation rate] A sample in the shape of a skein was suspended from a load of 20 mg / d, treated with hot water at room temperature to 98 ° C (temperature rising rate of 2 ° C / min), and the length L ₁ after air-drying for one day was determined. Then, the sample was further treated in an oven at 180 ° C. for 5 minutes, the length L ₂ after cooling was measured, and the spontaneous elongation rate was calculated by the following formula. The respective treatments and measurements were carried out with a load of 20 mg / d being suspended.

Spontaneous elongation (%) = (L ₂ −L ₁ ) × 100 / L ₁ [Example 1] Polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal polymer was melt-spun by a conventional method, and the cut elongation was 128 denier and 72 filaments. 180% yarn A and 29
0 denier, 30 filaments, cutting elongation 200%
Each of the semi-drawn yarns of the yarn B was wound up, and the composite false twisting process was performed using the process of FIG. In FIG. 4, the speeds of the first roller 1, the first roller 2, and the second roller 9 are set to 205 m / min and 339 m / min, respectively, and the heating plate 3 is set to 150 ° C. to heat the yarn A, and the yarn B is Converging the composite yarn by running in air at room temperature, performing a composite false twisting process using an external contact friction false twisting device as the false twisting rotor 8, and then imparting entanglement between the rollers 9 and 10 with an entanglement nozzle. It was rolled up to improve its properties.

The composite textured yarn obtained in this example had a core-sheath structure composed of a high shrinkage yarn and a low crimped yarn in which the yarn A and the yarn B had a difference in shrinkage. Furthermore, after the heat treatment, the yarn B has a thick and thin structure that gradually changes along the yarn axis direction, has some monofilament strain, has a bumpy thick portion, and streak-shaped indentations, and has birefringence. The rate had a part which changed substantially with the pitch of 0.5-10 mm. The running yarn between the confluence point P and the false twist rotor 8 was sampled and the false twist number (times / m) was measured under a load of 0.1 g / d (denier). )Met.

Then, the composite processed yarn of the present invention is applied 500 times /
Weft yarns with a twist of m (64 densities / inch), 75 denier using the same polymer, 36 filament drawn yarns are woven into warps (73 densities / inch), and dyed and finished by a conventional method. When I went, it was soft, tension, waist,
A carded woven fabric having a high resilience was obtained.

Table 1 shows the characteristics of the composite textured yarn of the present invention.

[0052]

[Table 1] ★ (Note) For yarns A and B, collect the unentangled yarn separately,
The measurement was performed separately for each. Example 2 Using the composite textured yarn of the present invention of Example 1,
No additional twist as a weft, 500 twists / m without twisting set, 500 twists / m with twisting set, 1000 twists / m
m yarns with additional twisting / set, 1500 yarns / m with additional twisting set, and 500 yarns / m without additional twisting yarn set, warp density of 50 yarns / inch, weft yarn density Four
A woven fabric having a flat design of 3 pieces / inch was prepared. Next, after scouring, alkali reduction and dry heat setting of the same fabric, dyeing and finishing processing was carried out by a conventional method.
The fabric was a summer wool-like woven fabric that was rich in waist and repulsion properties.

[0053]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, a yarn having excellent tension, waist, repulsion property and soft feeling depending on the way of designing the material, for example, the composite processed yarn of the present invention has the performance of the worsted knitted fabric. Can be realized by

Further, since the cross-sectional deformation is not large, the glitter can be improved.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph showing an example of the fiber shape of constituent yarn B of the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an electron micrograph showing another example of the fiber shape of the constituent yarn B of the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is an electron micrograph showing another example of the fiber shape of the constituent yarn B of the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of the method for producing the composite yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

A, B: Supply yarn 1, 2: First roller 3: Hot plate 5, 6: Thread guide regulation guide 7: Cooling plate 8: False twist rotor 9: Second roller 10: Entangling nozzle 11: Third roller 12 : Roll-up package P: Confluence point B ₁ : Thick, hump-shaped portion B ₂ : Striation-shaped indentation

Claims (15)

[Claims] 1. A composite processed yarn comprising at least two constituent yarns A and constituent yarns B having false twist crimps, wherein the two constituent yarns have at least one of difference in yarn length and difference in shrinkage ratio. A composite process characterized by having a thick portion and a thin portion in which the monofilaments constituting the constituent yarn B having at least a short yarn length or a large shrinkage ratio gradually change along the yarn axis direction. yarn. 2. At least a part of the monofilament constituting the constituent yarn B has an internal strain, and the monofilament has a portion in which the birefringence changes along the fiber axis direction at a pitch of 0.2 to 20 mm. The composite textured yarn according to claim 1, characterized by having. 3. The composite ratio of constituent yarn A and constituent yarn B is 10:90.
90 to 90:10.
The composite processed yarn according to. 4. The composite processed yarn according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the average fineness of the single fibers constituting the constituent yarn B is larger than the average fineness of the single fibers constituting the constituent yarn A. 5. The composite textured yarn according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, wherein the total fineness of the constituent yarn B is larger than the total fineness of the constituent yarn A. 6. The hot water shrinkage difference between the constituent yarns is 5 to 85%, and the hot water shrinkage percentage of the composite processed yarn is 10 to 90%. 4. The composite processed yarn according to 4 or 5. 7. A spontaneous elongation of 0.2 to 25 by heat treatment.
7. The composite textured yarn according to claim 1, which has a spontaneous elongation of 0.1%. 8. At least the constituent yarns B.
The composite textured yarn according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7, having a spontaneous elongation of 2 to 25%. 9. The composite textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the crimp restoration ratio is 2 to 30%. 10. The hump-shaped thick portion is provided in at least a part of the monofilament constituting the constituent yarn B. In claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9. The composite processed yarn described. 11. The monofilament constituting the constituent yarn B includes at least a portion having a streak-shaped indentation, and the monofilament comprises a streak-shaped indentation portion, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9 or 10
The composite processed yarn according to. 12. An entangled portion is provided, and the entangled portion is included.
The composite processed yarn according to. 13. A loop, snare, tarmi and / or fluff, according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12. The composite processed yarn described. 14. A composition yarn comprising at least a constituent yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate.
The composite textured yarn according to 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 or 13. 15. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite processed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 14.