JPH09302579A - Method for producing knitted fabric using fused crimped yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Abstract] [PROBLEMS] To provide a knitted fabric having a linen-like texture. SOLUTION: A multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber composed of a fiber body X and a filling body 2 is prepared. The fiber body X is made of a polyester-based component A, has a multi-lobed cross-sectional shape with three or more convex portions in a cross section, and has groove portions 2 ′ continuously present in the fiber axis direction near each vertex of the convex portions. Has been. The total number of the groove portions 2 ′ is 9 to 24, and the depth of each groove portion is 1 to 8 μm. The filler 2 is made of a polyester component B having a higher alkali solubility than the polyester component A and a lower melting point. A yarn is obtained by bundling a large number of this multi-leaf cross-section type conjugated fiber. A false twisting process is applied to this yarn to obtain a fusion-crimped yarn. The conditions for false twisting are accompanied by heat setting in a temperature range where the polyester-based component B is melted or softened so that the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers can be fused to each other. The alkali-reducing treatment is applied to the fabric knitted and woven using the fusion-crimped yarn to obtain a knitted fabric having a hemp-like texture.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted woven fabric such as a circular knitted fabric having a dry, hemp-like and crisp taste of hemp-like, and optionally a heddle-like appearance while using polyester fibers. It is about.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, the following knitted fabrics have been known as synthetic knitted fabrics which use synthetic fibers and have a linen-like texture. That is, a circular knit product made by knitting a synthetic fiber yarn formed by bundling single yarns having a deformed cross-section capable of exhibiting a sharpness, or a synthetic multifilament yarn formed by bundling a relatively small number of filaments with a single yarn fineness. A circular knitted product made by knitting a strip is known. However, these circular knits have a slimy feel peculiar to synthetic fibers, which is far from hemp-like and lacks in volume.

On the other hand, as a knitted fabric having a hemp-like texture mainly emphasizing the crispness, there is known one using a fusion crimped yarn. The fusion-crimped yarn is a yarn in which filaments are fused to each other by utilizing the thermoplasticity of the synthetic filament when false twisting the synthetic multifilament yarn. A knitted fabric using such a fused crimped yarn is preferable because it has a sufficient crispness and has a hemp-like feel to some extent. However, it has been pointed out that this knitted fabric has a drawback that the texture is too strong and the texture is hard. In addition, the fusion feeling between the synthetic filaments causes a lack of volume feeling.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Therefore, the present invention provides an alkali weight-reducing treatment for a fabric knitted and woven using a fusion-crimped yarn made of a special polyester-based composite fiber, and then the fusion-bonded fabric By releasing the fusion of the crimped yarn and developing the crimp that was suppressed by the fusion, and by exposing the special cross section of the polyester-based composite fiber, the volume and dry feel are excellent and sufficient. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric having a crisp taste and a linen-like texture.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems That is, the present invention comprises a polyester-based component A having a multi-lobed cross-sectional shape having a cross section of three or more projections, and in the vicinity of each projection peak, A fiber main body X in which groove portions satisfying the expressions (1) and (2) continuously exist in the fiber axis direction, and an alkali solubility higher than that of the polyester-based component A filled in the groove portions of the fiber main body X. A large number of multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers formed with a polyester component B having a large melting point and a filament formed by bundling a large number of the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers to melt or soften the polyester type component B A false crimping process is performed by performing false twisting accompanied by heat setting in a temperature range in which they can be fused with each other to obtain a fused crimped yarn, and an alkali weight reduction treatment is applied to a fabric woven and knitted using the fused crimped yarn. To dissolve and remove the polyester component B. A method of manufacturing a fabric. Note 9 ≦ N ≦ 24 (1) 1 μm ≦ H ≦ 8 μm (2) (where N is the total number of grooves in all convex portions, and H is the depth of each groove).

First, the special polyester-based composite fiber used in the present invention will be described. The polyester-based composite fiber is a multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber, and has a higher alkali solubility than the fiber body X (white background portion in FIG. 1 and FIG. 2) composed of the polyester-based component A and the polyester-based component A. Polyester component B that is large and has a low melting point
(Black part in FIG. 1) is combined. The fiber main body X has a multi-lobed cross-sectional shape having a convex portion 1 in its cross section, and is provided with a plurality of groove portions 2 ′ continuously present in the fiber axis direction near the apex of the convex portion 1. In the present invention, the multi-lobed cross-sectional shape means a shape as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. Therefore, the fiber body X is
If you take the cross section and observe it,
It is formed with a convex portion 1 continuously provided on the surface of the base portion, and a plurality of groove portions 2 ′ are formed near the apex of the convex portion 1. When the fiber main body X is observed in a perspective view, it is formed by a base having a substantially triangular prism shape and a projection 1 that is continuous with the surface of the base and extends in the longitudinal direction of the base. A plurality of grooves 2 ′ near the top of 1
Are running along the fiber axis. Then, the polyester-based component B is the groove portion 2'existing near the apex of the convex portion 1
The filling body 2 is filled with the fiber body X.
And a multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber is formed.

This multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber is required to have three or more convex portions 1 in its cross section. When the number of the convex portions 1 is less than 3, it is difficult for the obtained knitted fabric to exhibit a dry feeling or a sharp taste. The total number of the groove portions 2'provided near the apex of each convex portion 1 is 9 to 2 in all the convex portions.
It needs to be four. When the total number of the groove portions 2'is less than 9, it is difficult to give a dry feeling or a sharp taste to the obtained knitted fabric. Further, when the total number of the groove portions 2'exceeds 24, a large number of groove portions 2'are formed in the vicinity of one convex portion apex, so that the interval between the adjacent groove portions 2 ', 2'is narrowed, The folds formed of the polyester-based component A are likely to be lost between the groove portions 2 ′ and 2 ′, and the groove portion 2 ′ may disappear. Therefore, it is difficult to impart a dry feeling or a crisp taste to the obtained knitted fabric.

The depth of the groove 2'formed in the fiber body X is 1 to 8 μm. When the depth of the groove portion 2'is less than 1 µm, it is difficult to give a dry feeling or a crisp taste to the obtained knitted fabric. On the other hand, if the depth of the groove portion 2'exceeds 8 μm, the bottom portions of the adjacent groove portions 2 ', 2'may be connected, and the polyester type component A is formed between the groove portions 2', 2 '. The folds are likely to be lost, and the groove 2 ′ may disappear. Therefore, it is difficult to impart a dry feeling or a crisp taste to the obtained knitted fabric. Such a groove 2 '
Are substantially continuous in the fiber axis direction.
If the groove 2'is not continuous in the fiber axis direction and is in a discontinuous state, there may be a part where the groove 2'does not exist, and the dry feeling and the sharpness may be deteriorated.

As the polyester-based component A forming the fiber main body X, as long as it is relatively less soluble in alkali and has a higher melting point than the polyester-based component B, any one can be adopted. . For example, a disperse dye-dyeable polyester polymer or a cationic dye-dyeable polyester polymer may be used, and any kind can be used. In the present invention, a disperse dye-dyeable polyester polymer is often used, and specifically, polyethylene terephthalate obtained by condensing ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, or 90
% Or more is ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, and a copolyester or the like, which is partially composed of another diol component or another acid component, is adopted.

The polyester component B, which is the filler 2 and is filled in the groove 2'formed in the fiber body X, is more easily dissolved in alkali than the polyester component A ( Any material having a high alkali solubility) and a low melting point can be used. For example, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid 1-5 mol% and polyalkylene glycol 10
It is possible to employ a copolyester obtained by copolymerizing ˜30 wt% with a conventionally used diol component and acid component. The reason why the melting point of the polyester-based component B that is the filler 2 is lower than the melting point of the polyester-based component A is that when the fusion-crimped yarn is produced, the polyester-based component B is melted or softened to form a multi-leaf cross-section. This is because the mold composite fibers are fused to each other. Therefore, when the melting point of the polyester-based component B and the melting point of the polyester-based component A are the same or the melting point of the latter is lower, when the fused crimped yarn is prepared, the polyester-based component A Due to the melting or softening, the multi-leaf cross-section composite fibers may be fused with each other, which is not preferable.

As a specific example of the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber described above, the shapes shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 can be mentioned. That is, the fiber main body X formed of the polyester-based component A has three convex portions 1 and five groove portions 2 ′ are formed near the apex of each convex portion, a total of 15 groove portions 2 ′. There is. The groove 2'is continuous in the fiber axis direction, and each groove 2'is filled with the filler 2 made of the polyester-based component B having high alkali solubility. Such a multi-leaf cross-section type conjugate fiber can be easily obtained by melt-spinning the polyester-based component A and the polyester-based component B using a specially shaped spinning hole. Then, when the filling body 2 is dissolved and removed by the alkali reduction treatment, as shown in FIG.
That is, the fiber body X that is exposed (exposed) is generated.

A large number of such multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers are bundled to obtain a yarn. At this time, the filament may be obtained by bundling only the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber, or a yarn in which the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber and another kind of fiber are mixed or mixed and other kinds of fibers are mixed. You may get the article. The other-type fiber simply means a fiber different from the above-mentioned multi-leaf cross-section type conjugated fiber, and the material itself may be a polyester polymer. Rather, in the present invention, a polyester-based polymer is generally adopted as the other type fiber, and for example, a polyester-based polymer having a different dyeability from the polyester-based component A constituting the fiber body X of the multileaf cross-section type composite fiber. It is preferable to adopt so that a heat-tone appearance can be expressed by dyeing.
Specifically, if a disperse dye-dyeable polyester polymer is used as the fiber body X and a cationic dye-dyeable polyester polymer is used as the other fiber, dyeing with a disperse dye or a cationic dye is possible. As a result, a heathered knitted fabric is obtained. Further, even when the fiber body X is a cationic dye-dyeable polyester polymer and the other fiber is a disperse dye-dyeable polyester polymer, a similar knitted woven fabric can be obtained. As the cationic dye-dyeable polyester polymer, for example, ethylene terephthalate copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing 0.8 to 1.8 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component with respect to all acid components should be adopted. You can As the disperse dye dyeable polyester polymer, the above-mentioned ones are used.

The melting point of the other type fiber must be higher than the melting point of the polyester component B constituting the filler 2 of the multileaf cross section type composite fiber. When the melting point of the other type fiber is the same as or lower than the melting point of the polyester component B, there is a risk that the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers are fused to each other due to melting or softening of the other type fiber at the time of heat setting described later. There is. Also,
The cross-sectional shape of other fiber may be any shape, such as a circular cross-section,
A triangular cross section, eyebrows cross section, etc. are adopted. Furthermore,
The alkali solubility of the other fiber may be smaller or larger than that of the polyester component B. However, when it is desired to leave other kinds of fibers in the obtained knitted fabric and give the appearance such as heathered tone, it is preferable to employ one having a small alkali solubility. The weight ratio of the multileaf cross-section type composite fiber and the other type fiber in the yarn is preferably 150 parts by weight or less with respect to 100 parts by weight of the former. When the proportion of the other-type fibers exceeds 150 parts by weight, the dry feeling and the crispness derived from the fiber main body X of the multileaf cross-section type composite fiber may be deteriorated. When it is desired to obtain a heave-knitted woven fabric, it is necessary to mix about 20 to 30 parts by weight of another type of fiber, but if it is not particularly conscious of hemp-tone, it may be less than this.

Generally, as a yarn, a multi-leaf cross-section type composite monofilament having a fineness of about 1 to 5 denier (in some cases, mixed with other monofilaments having a fineness of about 1 to 5 denier), 10 to 100 filaments is used. A multi-filament yarn is obtained by focusing the fibers to some extent. Then, this multifilament yarn is subjected to false twisting. In the present invention, it is necessary to perform heat setting in the false twisting process within a specific temperature range. That is, it is necessary that the polyester-based component B is melted or softened, but the polyester-based component A (and other type of fiber) is not melted or softened. By performing heat setting in such a temperature range, the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers are fused with the polyester component B during false twisting. On the other hand, the polyester-based component A (and other type of fibers) does not melt or soften, and therefore does not function as a component that fuses the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers with each other. When other-type filaments (other-type fibers) are mixed in the yarn, the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers are fused together through the other-type filaments. Therefore, in the present invention, the fusion between the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers,
It is used to include both the case where the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber is directly contacted and fused, and the case where it is indirectly fused through another type filament (other type fiber). . Needless to say, the fusion between the multi-leaf cross-section type conjugated fibers does not necessarily have to occur in all the fibers in the yarn, but may occur in a part thereof.

By performing false twisting under such conditions, a fused crimped yarn can be obtained. Since this fusion-crimped yarn is fused between the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers due to the polyester component B, it has a continuous untwisted portion which is focused and bonded in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. . In addition, since there are ununtwisted portions, sufficient crimp is not developed. Such a fused crimped yarn is coarse and hard and lacks volume feeling. FIG. 3 is a diagram schematically showing a cross section of a fusion-crimped yarn made of only multi-leaf cross-section type conjugate fibers. In FIG. 3, since the multi-leaf cross-section type conjugate fibers are fused, it can be seen that the cross-sections have various shapes. Further, FIG. 5 is a diagram schematically showing a transverse cross section of a fusion-crimped yarn in which a multi-leaf cross-section type conjugate fiber and another kind of fiber having a circular cross section are mixed.

Using this fusion-crimped yarn, a fabric is obtained by weaving and knitting. The knitting and weaving may be performed by any conventionally known method, and the weaving and weaving may be performed by any conventionally known method. However,
In the present invention, it is most preferable to knit a circular knitted fabric with a circular knit structure. This is because in the case of a circular knitted fabric, the latter hemp-like knitted fabric is obtained by the subsequent alkali weight reduction treatment. The reason for this is not clear, but due to the synergistic effect of the circular knit structure and the physical properties of the fusion-crimped yarn after the alkali weight reduction treatment,
It is considered that the finished linen-like texture can be obtained. In the present invention, the fusible crimped yarn may be used in combination with other yarns, and the fabric may be obtained by knitting and weaving. As other yarns, ordinary false twisted yarns and spun yarns can be used.

The obtained dough is subjected to alkali reduction treatment. A conventionally known method can be adopted for the alkali weight loss treatment, and for example, the dough is immersed in an aqueous solution of 80 to 100 ° C. adjusted to be alkaline using caustic soda or the like. By this alkali reduction treatment, the polyester component B having high alkali solubility in the multi-leaf cross-section composite fiber is dissolved and removed, and the fiber main body X as shown in FIG. 2 is produced. As described above, the alkali weight reduction treatment dissolves and removes the polyester component B, but the amount of dissolution and removal can be appropriately changed. That is, the alkali weight reduction treatment is moderated to weaken the alkalinity of the treatment liquid, lower the treatment temperature, or shorten the treatment time, for example, to make the polyester component B
It is possible to reduce the amount of dissolved and removed, to emphasize the sharpness of the resulting knitted fabric, or to leave a hard texture. On the other hand, the alkali weight reduction treatment is made severe, and for example, the alkalinity of the treatment liquid is increased, the treatment temperature is increased, the treatment time is lengthened, or the alkali weight reduction treatment is performed twice to form the fiber main body X. Polyester component A
May be dissolved and removed in a slight amount from the surface of the fiber body X. Needless to say, when the surface of the fiber body X is dissolved and removed, such dissolution and removal that the shape of the cross section of the fiber body X is extremely changed should be avoided. This is because, if this shape is extremely changed, it is difficult to obtain a knitted fabric having a linen-like texture, which is the object of the present invention. As is clear from the above description, the fiber main body X produced by the alkali weight reduction treatment basically means the one obtained by dissolving and removing the polyester component B partially or wholly from the multileaf cross-section type composite fiber. However, it should be recognized that it also means that the polyester component A on the surface is dissolved and removed in a slight amount (that is, the surface of the basic fiber body X is dissolved and removed). ..

By dissolving and removing the polyester component B by this alkali weight reduction treatment, the fusion between the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers is released. This is because the multi-leaf cross-section type conjugate fibers were fused by the polyester component B. When the amount of the polyester-based component B dissolved and removed is small, there are cases where the fusion is not released, but not all the fusion is not released. Then, when the fusion is released, the number of the unfused and fused portions during the false twisting process is one
The fiber main body X of the book is divided and the crimps suppressed during false twisting are developed. Further, when the other-type fiber is present in the fusion-crimped yarn, the other-type fiber is also released from the fusion with the multileaf cross-section type composite fiber, and the crimp is similarly developed. Therefore, the fusion-crimped yarn becomes a yarn in which the crimped fiber main body X (including other crimped fibers in some cases) is bundled, and the volume feeling of the obtained knitted fabric is increased. Of. Furthermore, due to the fusion between the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers, the excessively strong crispness and hard texture which were given to the fusion-crimped yarn are reduced, and an appropriate crispness and soft texture can be obtained. It is realized as a knitted fabric. In addition, a schematic view of a cross-section of the yarn obtained by subjecting the fusion-crimped yarn to alkali reduction treatment to dissolve and remove the polyester component B and release the fusion is shown in FIG. As can be seen from FIG. 4, each of the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers is separated into almost one fiber, and the morphology of the fiber main body X is almost developed. The reason why the fiber body X is slightly deformed from the original multi-lobed cross-section type is that the false twisting process is performed under specific conditions. In addition, when other kinds of fibers are present (Fig. 6),
Fibers of other species are also separated one by one.

The knitted fabric obtained as described above can be used as it is as a raw material for clothing having a linen-like feel. Further, this knitted fabric can be subjected to conventionally known processes such as dyeing process and finishing process, and can be used as a material for clothing and the like which is linen-like and has a desired texture and appearance. The dyeing process can be performed using a disperse dye or a cationic dye. In particular, when a disperse dye-dyeable polyester polymer is used as the fiber body X in the multi-leaf cross-section composite fiber and a cationic dye-dyeable polyester polymer is used as the other type fiber, By performing the dyeing process in combination with the cationic dye, the fiber main body X and the fibers of other types can be dyed in different colors, and a good tone can be expressed. Also, when the knitted fabric is a circular knit,
It has the most hemp-like texture and is suitable as a material for clothing.

[0020]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be specifically described below based on embodiments. The relative viscosity and melting point of the polyester-based components and the like in the examples, the method for measuring the number and depth of the groove portions of the multileaf cross-section type composite fiber, and the evaluation of the texture of the obtained knitted fabric are performed by the following methods. It was (1) Relative viscosity of polyester-based component: using a mixed solvent of equal weight of phenol and ethane tetrachloride, concentration 0.5 g / d
1 and the temperature was 20 ° C. (2) Melting point of polyester-based component, etc .: JIS-defined by Japanese Industrial Standards Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method
It was measured based on the melting point measurement method A of L1013. (3) Depth and number of groove portions of multileaf cross section composite fiber: A sample knitted using a yarn made of multileaf cross section composite fiber to be measured was NaOH concentration 0.5 wt%, liquid temperature 95 The polyester component B was dissolved and removed by immersing in an alkaline aqueous solution at 0 ° C. for 30 minutes to carry out alkali weight loss treatment. Next, the washed and dried sample is unknitted, the fiber body X constituting the obtained yarn is photographed with a scanning electron microscope, the depth of the groove is measured on the photograph, and the number of grooves is determined. I counted. (4) Evaluation of texture of knitted fabric: Ten panelists consisting of a weaving engineer, a knitting engineer, and a dyeing engineer were selected, and the following four-level evaluation was performed by a sensory test by touch. ⊚: very good, ◯; good, Δ: slightly inferior, ×: inferior.

Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 As the polyester component A, polyethylene terephthalate having a relative viscosity of 1.38 and a melting point of 255 ° C. was prepared. On the other hand, as the polyester component B, a molecular weight of 700
0% polyethylene glycol 12% by weight, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid 1.5 mol%, and terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol in the same mol% were charged, and the relative viscosity was 1.55 and the melting point was 240. A copolyester of ℃ was prepared. Using 6 parts by weight of this polyethylene terephthalate and 1 part by weight of the copolyester, melt-composite spinning is carried out so that the polyethylene terephthalate forms the fiber main body X and the copolyester forms the filler. After obtaining an unstretched multileaf cross-section type composite fiber (unstretched multileaf cross section type composite filament) having three convex portions with a cross section as shown in the drawing, this is introduced into the drawing step to obtain the multileaf cross section type composite filament. A multifilament yarn of 75 denier / 24 filaments was obtained.
At this time, various types of multileaf cross-section type composite filaments shown in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 of Table 1 were obtained by changing the form of the spinning holes.

[0022]

[Table 1]

The multifilament yarn was subjected to false twisting under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a fusion-crimped yarn.

[Table 2]

Using this fusion-crimped yarn and polyester false twisted yarn 100 denier / 24 filament,
Using a circular knitting machine manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd. (LPJ-H 33 ′ × 22G), a circular knit fabric was knitted with a double picket structure such that the fusion-crimped yarn was on the surface of the knitted fabric. The circular knit fabric was subjected to alkali weight reduction treatment using a jet dyeing machine (circular) manufactured by HISAKA MFG. The alkali weight reduction treatment was performed by using an alkaline aqueous solution having a caustic soda concentration of 10 g / l, immersing the solution at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes. By this alkali weight loss treatment,
The polyester component B in the fusion-crimped yarn was dissolved and removed. After that, the disperse dye was used to perform a usual dyeing process to obtain a circular knit.

The circular knitted fabric was inspected and evaluated by a sensory test for dry feeling, volume feeling and crispness. The results are as shown in Table 3.

[Table 3]

Comparative Example 4 Example 1 was repeated except that the polyester component B was not used and only the polyester component A was used to carry out single melt spinning to obtain a multi-lobed filament having no groove. A multifilament yarn of 75 denier / 24 filament was obtained in the same manner as in 1. The form of this multi-lobed cross-section filament is as shown in Table 1. And, to this multifilament yarn, the first heater temperature is 244 ° C.
Other than the above, false twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Table 2. After that, a circular knit product was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1.
The circular knitted fabric was evaluated for dryness, volume and crispness by sensory evaluation. The results are as shown in Table 3.

Comparative Example 5 A circular knitted fabric was obtained under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 4 except that a circular cross-section type filament having no groove portion (as shown in Table 1) was obtained. The circular knitted fabric was evaluated for dryness, volume and crispness by sensory evaluation. The results are as shown in Table 3.

Example 3 A multifilament yarn of 75 denier / 24 filaments composed of the multileaf cross-section type composite filament used in Example 1 was prepared. On the other hand, a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer obtained by copolymerizing 1.2 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate with respect to all acid components (melting point 252
C.) was used to prepare a 50-denier / 12-filament multifilament yarn consisting of other-type filaments obtained by spinning and drawing. The mixed fiber multifilament yarn obtained by aligning both of these multifilament yarns was provisionally prepared under the conditions of Table 2 except that the first heater temperature was 240 ° C and the first feed rate was 15.6%. Twisting was performed to obtain a fusion-crimped yarn.

A circular knit fabric was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that this fused crimped yarn was used, and an alkali weight reduction treatment was carried out. Then, the disperse dye and the cationic dye were used for dyeing to obtain a circular knit. This circular knit had a heathered appearance. The same evaluations as those obtained in Example 1 were obtained for the dry feeling, the volume feeling and the crispness.

Example 4 A circular knitted product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used in Example 2 was used in place of the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used in Example 1. It was This circular knitted fabric had a heathered appearance. Regarding the dry feeling, the voluminous feeling, and the crispness, Example 2
The same evaluation as that obtained in (1) was obtained.

Comparative Example 6 A circular knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the multi-lobe cross-section type composite filament used in Comparative Example 1 was used in place of the multi-lobe cross-section type composite filament used in Example 1. It was Although this circular knit had a heathered appearance, it had a dry feel.
Only the same evaluations as those of Comparative Example 1 were obtained for the volume feeling and the sharpness.

Comparative Example 7 A circular knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used in Comparative Example 2 was used instead of the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used in Example 1. It was Although this circular knit had a heathered appearance, it had a dry feel.
Only the same evaluations as those of Comparative Example 2 were obtained for the volume feeling and the sharpness.

Comparative Example 8 A circular knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used in Comparative Example 3 was used instead of the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used in Example 1. It was Although this circular knit had a heathered appearance, it had a dry feel.
Only the same evaluations as those of Comparative Example 3 were obtained for the volume feeling and the sharpness.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 9 The multi-leaf cross-section type filament used in Comparative Example 4 was used.
5 denier / 24 filament multifilament yarn and other type filament used in Example 3 5
A 0-denier / 12-filament multifilament yarn was aligned to obtain a mixed-fiber multifilament yarn. The mixed multifilament yarn was subjected to false twisting under the conditions shown in Table 2 except that the first heater temperature was 244 ° C. and the first feed rate was 15.6% to obtain a fusion crimped yarn. Obtained. And, except for using this fused crimped yarn,
A circular knit product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3. This circular knitted fabric had a heathered appearance, but the dry feel, the volume feel and the crispness were only the same evaluations as those of Comparative Example 4, and were not satisfactory.

Comparative Example 10 Instead of the filament having the multi-lobed cross section used in Comparative Example 9,
A circular knit product was obtained in the same manner as in Comparative Example 9 except that the filament having the circular cross-section type used in Comparative Example 5 was used. This circular knit had a heathered appearance, but the dry feeling, the volume feeling and the crispness were only the same evaluations as those of Comparative Example 5, and were not satisfactory.

As is clear from the results of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10, the circular knitted fabrics according to Examples 1 to 4 were good in dry feeling, volume feeling and sharpness. . In particular, the circular knitted fabrics according to Examples 1 and 3 are excellent in all of dry feel, volume feel, and crispness, and are the hemp-like ones. Further, the circular knitted fabric according to Example 3 has a heavier tone. It had an appearance. In contrast,
In Comparative Examples 1 and 6, since the total number of groove portions in the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used was as small as 6, only circular knit fabrics having a slightly dry feeling were obtained. Further, in Comparative Examples 2 and 7, since the groove portion in the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used was shallow, only circular knit fabrics lacking in dry feeling were obtained. In Comparative Examples 3 and 8, since the total number of grooves in the multi-leaf cross-section type composite filament used was small and the depth of the grooves was shallow, only a circular knit having a dry feeling and a slight lack of sharpness was obtained. There wasn't. In Comparative Examples 4 and 9, no circular groove was present in the multileaf cross-section type filaments used, so that only circular knit fabrics lacking in dry feeling and volume feeling were obtained.
Furthermore, in Comparative Examples 5 and 10, since circular filaments were used, only circular knits lacking in volume feeling and slightly lacking in dry feeling were obtained. In addition, although the circular knitted fabrics according to Comparative Examples 6 to 10 had a heathered appearance, as described above, they were not satisfactory in terms of dry feeling, volume feeling and crispness.

[0037]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION The method for producing a knitted fabric according to the present invention comprises subjecting a fabric woven and knitted using the fusion crimped yarn composed of the above-mentioned special multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber to alkali reduction treatment. It is to give. By this alkali reduction treatment, the fusion of the fusion-crimped yarn is released, and the suppressed crimps are developed, so that a good volume feeling can be imparted to the obtained knitted fabric. In addition, since the morphology of the fiber main body X of the multi-leaf cross-section type conjugate fiber is developed as the fusion is released, a good dry feeling can be imparted to the obtained knitted fabric, and the fusion crimped yarn has It also becomes difficult to reduce the sharpness. Therefore, the knitted fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention has good dry feel, good volume feel, and crisp taste, and has the effect of having a hemp-like feel. If a disperse dye dyeable polyester polymer is used as the fiber body X, and another type of fiber made of a cationic dye dyeable polyester polymer is present in the fusion-crimped yarn, the disperse dye By performing a dyeing process with a cationic dye, it is possible to provide the knitted and woven fabric with a hemp-like appearance and a heathered appearance. Therefore, the knitted fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention can be suitably used not only as a material for clothing but also as a material for various other uses.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a view showing an example of a cross section of a multileaf cross section type composite fiber used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a view showing a cross section of a fiber main body X, in which the polyester component B is dissolved and removed from the multileaf cross-section type composite fiber shown in FIG.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing an example of a cross section of a fusion-crimped yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a diagram showing a cross section of the fusion-crimped yarn shown in FIG. 3 after being subjected to alkali weight reduction treatment.

FIG. 5 is a diagram showing another example of the cross section of the fusion-crimped yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a view showing a cross section of the fusion-crimped yarn shown in FIG. 5 after being subjected to alkali reduction treatment.

[Explanation of symbols]

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Convex portion of multi-leaf cross-section type composite fiber 2 Filler made of polyester-based component B filled in groove of fiber body X 2'Groove formed in fiber body X Fiber body made of polyester-based component A

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Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A multi-leaf cross-sectional shape comprising a polyester-based component A, the cross section of which has three or more protrusions, and the following formulas (1) and (2) are satisfied near the apex of each protrusion. And a fiber main body X in which grooves are continuously present in the fiber axis direction, and a polyester-based component B with which the groove of the fiber main body X is filled, which has a higher alkali solubility and a lower melting point than the polyester-based component A. In a temperature range in which the polyester-based component B is melted or softened into a yarn formed by bundling a large number of the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers to fuse between the multi-leaf cross-section type composite fibers. Is subjected to false twisting accompanied by heat-setting to obtain a fusion-crimped yarn, and the fabric weaved and woven using the fusion-crimped yarn is subjected to alkali weight reduction treatment to dissolve and remove the polyester component B. A method for producing a knitted fabric, comprising: Note 9 ≦ N ≦ 24 (1) 1 μm ≦ H ≦ 8 μm (2) (where N is the total number of grooves in all convex portions, and H is the depth of each groove). 2. A polyester dye having a disperse dye dyeable polyester polymer as the polyester component A, a cationic dye dyeable polyester fiber having a melting point higher than that of the polyester component B, and a multileaf cross-section type. The method for producing a knitted woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein a yarn obtained by compounding or mixing fibers with a composite fiber is used. 3. The method for producing a knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a circular knitted fabric is used as the fabric.