JPH1112879A - Woven and knitted fabric using bundled spun yarn of polyester filament and short fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [abstract] (with correction) [PROBLEMS] A woven / knitted fabric excellent in wet comfort, having good wearing feeling, high moisture absorption and high water absorption, and hardly feeling sticky or cold even when wet. SOLUTION: The united spun yarn in which the reconstitution ratio of the polyester filament and the short fiber is 20:80 to 80:20 by weight, wherein at least a part of the polyester filament 1 in the woven or knitted fabric is a woven or knitted fabric. The projecting portion 5 protrudes from the surface and has a height of 0.1 to 2 mm higher than the thread bundle portion. Preferably, the cellulose fibers contain at least 20% of the total weight of the fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric, and the cellulose fibers 2 and / or the short fibers 2 used for binding spinning are preferably used. On the fiber surface and at the fiber end, the thickness is 0.2 to 8.0 μm, and the length is 5 to 150 μm.
A woven or knitted fabric characterized in that it is fibrillated 4 in a shape of μm.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to general garments, sports garments, innerwear, etc., which have a good feeling of wearing, have high hygroscopicity and water absorption, and do not have a feeling of stickiness or cooling even when wet. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric excellent in wear comfort when wet.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, a woven or knitted fabric which uses a filament and a staple fiber, particularly a polyester filament and a natural fiber as a composite yarn and makes good use of both properties has been used. For example, while seeking resilience, smoothness, drapability, and quick drying, morphological stability, and strength as the texture of polyester filament, the bulkiness and warmth of combining short fibers are required. Or a woven or knitted fabric to which comfort is hardly obtained by using only polyester fibers by using the high water absorption and hygroscopicity of natural fibers. (JP-A-4-228634, JP-A-5-44138, JP-A-7-118989)

[0003]

There are various conventional methods for combining a polyester filament and a short fiber of a composite yarn. However, there is a method using a spinning method in which the polyester filament or the short fiber is positively positioned at the outer periphery of the yarn. In the case of the yarn, the properties of either the polyester filament or the short fiber are strongly exhibited, and a woven or knitted fabric utilizing the properties of both is not obtained. Further, even in the case of compounding by a spinning method in which polyester and short fibers are uniformly mixed, the characteristics of polyester filaments are hard to be obtained because the fluff of short fibers appears on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. In view of the above, the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric using a composite yarn of a polyester filament and a staple fiber, and exhibits characteristics of both the polyester filament and the staple fiber, and is particularly excellent in wearing feeling and wet comfort. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric having excellent wear comfort.

[0004]

In order to achieve the above object, a first aspect of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn composed of polyester filaments and short fibers, wherein the polyester used for the bundled spun yarn is used. The filament has a form in which at least a part thereof protrudes above the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and a height of the protruding part has a form protruding from the surface of the yarn bundle by 0.1 to 2 mm, and is used for the binding spun yarn. Staple fibers have a thickness of 0.2 to 8.0 on the fiber surface and fiber ends.
A woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn of polyester filaments and short fibers, which is fibrillated into a shape having a length of 5 µm and a length of 5 to 150 µm. The second
In a woven or knitted fabric using a conjugated spun yarn composed of a polyester filament and a short fiber, the fiber composite ratio of the polyester filament and the staple fiber used in the conjugated spun yarn is 20:80 to 80:20 by weight. And the woven or knitted fabric as a whole comprises cellulose-based fibers in a fiber weight ratio of 2%.
A woven or knitted fabric using a conjugated spun yarn with the polyester filament staple fiber according to the first aspect, characterized by containing 0 to 80%. Thirdly, in a woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn of polyester filaments and short fibers, the cellulose fibers used in the woven or knitted fabric are:
At least 0.2-thickness at the fiber surface and fiber end
The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn of the polyester filament and the short fiber according to the above item 1, characterized in that the fiber is fibrillated into a shape of 8.0 µm and a length of 5 to 150 µm. That is, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using a conjugated spun yarn of a polyester filament and a short fiber, and a portion of the polyester filament constituting the conjugated spun yarn is floated from the yarn bundle portion on the woven or knitted fabric surface. An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted article which protrudes and in which the short fibers contained in the woven or knitted article are fibrillated. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

[0005] The binding spun yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a form in which at least a part of the polyester filament constituting the composite yarn protrudes above the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
By the polyester filament projecting to the surface,
The properties of the polyester filament in the woven or knitted fabric are exhibited. In particular, a smooth surface feeling is obtained by the protruding portions of the polyester filaments, and even when the woven or knitted fabric is wet, it exhibits characteristics of less stickiness due to the effect of point contact of the polyester which is a hydrophobic fiber. However, when the high point of the protruding portion is higher than 2 mm, the sewing property is reduced, and a problem such as snag generation occurs as a product. If the height of the protruding portion is lower than 0.1 mm, the above characteristics cannot be obtained. Therefore, it is necessary that the height of the protruding portion has a shape protruding from the yarn bundle by 0.1 to 2 mm.

[0006] As shown in FIG.
The substantially non-twisted polyester filament (1) located at the core of the yarn has a yarn form that is bundled by a tying part formed by winding short fiber fluff, and the polyester filament contained in the tied spun yarn is Binding unit (6)
In the part and / or the whole area between the and the binding part, the protruding form (5) is adopted as described above. There are various composite spinning methods of polyester filaments and short fibers, but in order to obtain the yarn form of the present invention, it is essential to combine polyester filaments (1) and short fibers (2) in the binding spinning method.

[0007]

FIG.

[0008] The polyester filament constituting the binding spun yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate or polyethylene terephthalate, and as the third component, isophthalic acid and 5-sodium sulfone. A filament obtained by spinning a polymer obtained by copolymerizing an acid metal salt or the like or a polymer added with an inorganic or organic substance capable of forming fine grooves and pores by hydrolysis or the like, and its fineness is The cross-sectional shape, the number of filaments and the like are not particularly limited. Further, the polyester filament may be a mixed fiber such as a filament having a different shrinkage ratio depending on heat treatment conditions of wet heat and dry heat.

The short fibers constituting the binding spun yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention include synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, silk, and wool, polynosic rayon, and bisco-based fibers. Recycled fibers such as rayon, etc., are made of non-manufactured fibers and the like, and their materials and yarn lengths are not particularly limited. However, in binding and spinning, short fiber fuzz is easily wound around the yarn bundle. You need to choose. Further, the short fibers have a thickness of 0.2 to 8.0 at the fiber surface and at the fiber ends.
It has to be fibrillated into a shape having a length of 5 μm and a length of 5 to 150 μm. When the short fibers are fibrillated in this range, when the skin comes into contact with the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention sewn on clothes or the like, the contact area is small, so that it does not feel chilly, it is soft and warm. A certain feeling of wearing is obtained. According to the research results of the present inventors, both the thickness and the length of the fibril are less than this range, and if the fibril exceeds this range, the strong surface, the tactile effect, the surface appearance, etc. are not appropriate, so the present invention Can not be adopted.

In the method of fibrillating short fibers, for example, in the case of synthetic fibers such as polyester staple, an additive which promotes fibrillation is mixed at the yarn stage, and alkali reduction treatment is performed in a post-processing step. Is achieved by the method. In the case of cellulosic fiber, cellular fiber
There are methods of performing enzyme-based treatment and rubbing treatment, and the method of fibrillating them is not particularly limited, and a method suitable for each short fiber is employed.

[0011]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The fiber reconstitution ratio between polyester filaments and short fibers constituting the united spun yarn of the present invention is as follows:
The weight ratio needs to be 20:80 to 80:20. If the short fiber ratio is lower than 20 by weight, it is difficult to form a tied portion of the tied spun yarn, and this is unsuitable for the present invention because a strength problem is also exhibited. It is difficult to obtain the properties of both short fibers and polyester filaments. Further, when the short fiber ratio is higher than 80 by weight, the characteristics of the polyester filament are unlikely to appear, and the spinnability of the bundled spun yarn is reduced, and many defects such as NEP are generated. Can not do it.

It is preferable that the whole woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains at least 20 to 80% by weight of cellulose-based fibers in terms of fiber weight ratio. Cellulose fibers can be reconstituted by using cellulosic staple fibers as short fibers used in a conjugated spun yarn. Either a method of combining fibers or a method of combining cellulose fibers by both methods may be used.

The cellulose fiber of the present invention may be any of natural fibers, recycled fibers, artificial fibers and semi-synthetic fibers as long as they are woven or knitted fibers derived from cellulose. The cross-sectional shape, fiber length, thickness and the like are not particularly limited. However, as described above, the cellulose fiber has a thickness of at least 0.2 at the fiber surface and at the fiber end due to the contact thermal sensation, texture, etc. ~ 8.0μ
m, it is necessary to fibrillate into a shape having a length of 5 to 150 μm. The fibril-containing cellulose fibers are combined with the woven or knitted fabric, so that a warm and soft texture can be obtained, and the high water absorption and hygroscopicity of the cellulose fibers are taken into consideration for wearing comfort. Excellent woven and knitted fabric. In order to obtain this effect, it is necessary that fibrillated cellulosic fibers having the above-mentioned thickness and length are 20 to 80% of the total fiber weight of the woven or knitted fabric. If it is less than 20%, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention as described above cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 80%, the effect of reintegrating the woven or knitted fabric is reduced, and the strength is unfavorably reduced.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited in its method for weaving, knitting, dyeing and finishing, as long as the above conditions are satisfied.

[0015]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited by the following examples, and modifications may be appropriately made within a range that conforms to the gist of the present invention. It goes without saying that you can do it. In addition, the measuring method regarding evaluation of each characteristic value in the following Examples is as follows.

(1) Contact thermal sensation: Using a thermolab (manufactured by Kato Tech), the instantaneous heat consumption (qmax; cal / cm ² · sec) when the hot plate and the cloth to be tested come into contact with each other is measured. Measurement.
When the qma × value is high, it indicates that the garment is likely to feel cold when in contact with the skin. Especially in a wet state (moisture percentage 100
%) Of the test cloth in%) represents a feeling of cooling when the wet clothes come into contact with the skin. (2) Wet friction coefficient: A KES-SE (manufactured by Kato-Tech) measuring device was used to measure the surface friction coefficient between the film with artificial cortex and the wet test cloth. The greater the wet friction coefficient,
It indicates that wet clothes adhere to the skin, do not easily separate from the skin, and easily feel sticky. (3) Moisture absorption: The moisture content of the sample in an environment of 20 ° C. and 65% RH and the moisture content of the sample in an environment of 20 ° C. and 95% RH were measured by a gravimetric method. Is calculated. The higher the hygroscopic property value, the higher the hygroscopic property. [Equation 1] Hygroscopic property value = (sample moisture content at 20 ° C. and 95% RH environment) − (sample moisture content at 20 ° C. and 65% RH environment) (4) Hand; Flexural rigidity), 2HB / B (returnability), tensile elongation / elongation (E
MT), thickness (T) and compressibility (WC / T).

[0017]

Example 1 A 60-denier, 20-filament polyester multifilament having a shrinkage of -7.5% at a dry heat of 160 ° C. and a 1.0-denier polynosic rayon having a fiber length of 38 mm were used. Warp yarns with binding fiber yarn (30th count)
A twill fabric (1/2 twill) as a weft was prepared. After the fabric was subjected to a dry heat relaxation treatment at 160 ° C. for 1 minute, scouring, alkali reduction, cellulase-based enzyme treatment, dispersing or dyeing with a reactive dye, and finishing setting were performed. In order to promote the fibrillation of the polynosic rayon during the liquid flow treatment such as alkali reduction, enzyme treatment, etc., processing was carried out using a drum-rotating dyeing machine having a high kneading effect on the fabric. Using a scanning electron microscope, the fiber surface of the obtained woven fabric was 100
Observation at × 1 and × 1000 revealed that the polyester filaments partially protruded from the surface of the woven fabric as shown in the drawing of the electron micrograph (FIG. 2), and that the thickness of the filament and the surface of the polynosic rayon were 0%. 0.2-8.0μ
It was observed that a large number of fibrillated portions having a length in the range of 5 to 150 μm were formed. In addition, the bundled spun yarn used for the warp and the weft was taken from the obtained woven fabric, and the side surface of the yarn was observed with a micro video scope at a magnification of 50 times.
It was observed that the polyester filaments had a height of 0.1 to 2 mm higher than the yarn bundle between the ties where the polynosic rayon was tied. Further, the fabric was measured for a contact thermal sensation (Qmax), a wet friction coefficient, a moisture absorption rate, and a hand measurement. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0018]

FIG. 2

[0019]

[Table 1] According to Table 1, Example 1 further has a lower wet friction coefficient than the comparative example due to the effect of the protruding portion of the polyester filament.
Furthermore, the effect of fibrillation of short fibers is added, and since the qmax value is low, it can be said that the fabric is excellent in wearing comfort not only in a dry state but also in a wet state. In addition, it can be said that the fabric is a novel texture having softness, elasticity, stretchability, and swelling feeling.

[0020]

Comparative Example 1 A 60-denier, 20-filament polyester multifilament yarn having a shrinkage of -7.5% at a dry heat of 160 DEG C. and a 1.0-denier, polynosic rayon having a fiber length of 38 mm were used. Warp tying of bound spun yarn (No. 30)
A twill fabric (1/2 twill) as a weft was prepared. Except that the enzyme treatment was omitted when processing into the woven fabric, and in the case of liquid flow processing such as weight loss and dyeing, processing was performed with a circular liquid flow dyeing machine so as not to give a kneading effect to the fabric. Was processed in the same manner as in Example 1. When the fiber surface of the obtained woven fabric was observed at 100 times and 1000 times with a scanning electron microscope, it was observed that polyester filaments partially protruded from the woven fabric surface, but the surface of the polynosic rayon was observed. And the fiber end was not fibrillated. Also, from the obtained woven fabric, the conjugated spun yarn used for the warp and the weft was taken, and the side surface of the yarn was observed at a magnification of 50 times with a micro video scope. It was observed that the filament had a protruding form having a height of 0.1 to 2 mm from the yarn bundle. Further, the woven fabric was subjected to the measurement of the contact thermal sensation (Qmax), the coefficient of wet friction, the coefficient of moisture absorption, and the measurement of the hand as described above. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0021]

Comparative Example 2 A 60-denier, 20-filament polyester multifilament yarn having a shrinkage of -7.5% at a dry heat of 160 ° C. and a 1.0-denier, polynosic rayon having a fiber length of 38 mm were used. A twill fabric (1/2) in which a spun yarn (30th count) compounded by the spinning and twisting spinning method is used as a warp and a weft.
Aya) was created. The fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1. When the fiber surface of the obtained woven fabric was observed at 100 times and 1000 times with a scanning electron microscope, it was not observed that polyester filaments partially protruded from the woven fabric surface. Further, it was observed that a large number of fibrillated portions having a thickness of 0.2 to 8.0 μm and a length of 5 to 150 μm were formed on the surface of the polynosic rayon and on the ends of the fibers. Further, from the obtained woven fabric, the conjugated spun yarn used for the warp and the weft was taken, and the side surface of the yarn was observed at a magnification of 50 times with a micro video scope. As a result, between the tied portions where the polynosic rayon was tied, Although the polyester filament had a feeling of floating outside the yarn bundle, it did not have a protruding shape. Further, the woven fabric was subjected to the measurement of the contact thermal sensation (Qmax), the coefficient of wet friction, the coefficient of moisture absorption, and the hand measurement in the manner described above. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0022]

Comparative Example 3 A 1.0 denier, 38 mm fiber length polyester staple was tied to a 1.0 denier, 38 mm fiber length polynosic rayon bound spun yarn (30 count, ESS / P
n: 34/66) warp and weft (1/2)
Aya) was created. The fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1. When the fiber surface of the obtained woven fabric was observed at 100 times and 1000 times with a scanning electron microscope, the thickness of the surface of the polynosic rayon and the end of the fiber were 0.2 mm.
It was observed that a large number of fibrillated portions having a size in the range of -8.0 µm and a length of 5-150 µm were formed. For this woven fabric, the measurement of the contact thermal sensation (Qmax), the coefficient of wet friction, and the moisture absorption rate, and the measurement of the hand were performed as described above. The results are shown in [Table 1].

[0023]

According to the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the polyester filament has a shape protruding from the yarn bundle portion, and the union-bonded spun yarn of the polyester filament and the short fiber is used, so that the polyester filament and the short fiber are combined. Features can be combined. In particular, due to the fact that the short fibers are fibrillated, the texture is soft, warm, swelling, and a new texture with elasticity and cellulosic fibers are recombined with the woven and knitted fabric. A woven or knitted fabric having good hygroscopicity, good wearing feeling, no sticky feeling or cold feeling, and excellent in wet comfort, suitable for general clothing, sports clothing, innerwear and the like was obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a united spun yarn used for a woven or knitted fabric using the united spun yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 shows a surface of a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention taken by a scanning electron microscope.
Drawing of photograph observed at 0x

[Explanation of symbols]

 1. 1. polyester filament yarn 2. Short fiber staple 3. Staple fluff 4. Where the staples are fibrillated. Polyester filament protrusion

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric using a bunched spun yarn composed of polyester filaments and short fibers, wherein the polyester filament used in the bunched spun yarn has a form in which at least a part thereof protrudes above the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. The protruding portion has a shape in which the height of the protruding portion protrudes from the surface of the yarn bundle by 0.1 to 2 mm, and the short fibers used in the united spun yarn have a thickness of 0.2 to 8. A woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn of polyester filaments and short fibers, which is fibrillated into a shape of 0 μm and a length of 5 to 150 μm. 2. In a woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn of polyester filaments and short fibers, the fiber composite ratio of the polyester filaments and short fibers used in the bundled spun yarn is 20:80 to 80 by weight. : 20 and the woven or knitted fabric contains cellulose-based fibers as a whole in a fiber weight ratio of 20 to 80%, wherein the spun yarn comprising polyester filaments and short fibers according to claim 1 is used. Woven and knitted fabric. 3. A woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn of polyester filaments and short fibers, wherein the cellulose-based fibers used in the woven or knitted fabric have a thickness of at least 0.2 to 8 at the fiber surface and at the fiber end. 0.0 μm, length 5
3. A woven or knitted fabric using a bundled spun yarn of polyester filaments and short fibers according to claim 2, which is fibrillated into a shape of 150 [mu] m.