JPH1181069A - Crimped yarn and woven or knit fabric and their production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a crimped yarn, composed of a crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn and capable of providing a woven or a knit fabric having a unique surface visual feeling, dry touch and stretchability and the woven or knit fabric composed of the crimped yarn and to provide a method for producing the crimped yarn. SOLUTION: This crimped yarn is a conjugated multifilament yarn composed of a polyester polymer and satisfies the following characteristics (a) to (e): (a) number of crimps (CA): 2.5 peaks/cm<=C<=10 peaks/cm, (b) number of developed crimps (CB): 8 peaks/cm<=CB<=30 peaks/cm, (c) shrinkage stress (TS): 0.088<=TS (cN/dtex)<=0.221, (d) apparent shrinkage percentage (SC): 40%<=SC<=80% and (e) shrinkage percentage in boiling water (SW): 2%<SW<8%. The crimped yarn can be produced by heat-treating a produced crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn under relaxed conditions.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath manner. Crimped yarn and method for producing the same, which make it possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having feel, dry touch and stretchability, and particularly excellent bulkiness composed of such crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn And a woven or knitted fabric having a new and unique surface feeling, dry touch property and stretch property.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, polyester fibers have been used as a mainstream of synthetic fibers because of their many excellent properties. In recent years, in particular, in the field of clothing, they have a high sensitivity with improved properties. High quality material was developed,
These are popularized under the name of so-called "new synthetic fiber".
This "new synthetic fiber", in the production of polyester fiber,
It has been accepted by the market because both advanced sophistication of yarn production technology and technology in the higher processing stage for fabricating woven and knitted fabrics have provided a new high-quality feel completely different from conventional products.

[0003] However, "Shin Synthetic Fiber" having this high quality feel
Is obtained by a complicated combination of advanced yarn and higher processing steps, and thus has problems in cost and quality stability. In particular, in order to provide a new effect of high-quality texture, false twist processing and mixed fiber processing are performed using multiple yarns, and further twisted and cross-woven composite methods are used to increase added value. Tends to be very expensive.
In addition, products with different textures are required as the product goes round, and further improvement in appearance change and functionality is required.

As a technique for obtaining a woven or knitted material having a surface change, for example, there is a method of producing a woven or knitted material by first-twisting and false-twisting a yarn. However, this method has a high processing cost. However, there are drawbacks in that it is difficult to obtain a new surface feel and that stretchability cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric due to twisting. As a means for imparting stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric, there is a method using polyurethane-based elastic fibers. However, the cost is extremely high and a new surface feeling cannot be obtained.

There is also known a method of producing a woven fabric having a surface change by using a conjugate yarn in which components composed of two different polymers are arranged side by side. In some cases, false twisting is performed in order to impart a texture, but in these methods, not only the number of steps is increased, the cost is increased, but also the texture tends to be hard.

[0006] Furthermore, a method of obtaining a bulky yarn or a bulky woven or knitted fabric by subjecting a stretched conjugated yarn composed of polyethylene terephthalate and a copolymerized polyester to a relaxation heat treatment under a small tension to express crimp is disclosed in −
No. 37376 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 57-25650. However, according to these methods, although crimp can be stably expressed, it is difficult to impart a surface change or stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric.

[0007] On the other hand, in the fabrication of these conventional yarns, when a straight yarn having shrinkage is used, no change occurs on the surface of the fabric and no stretchability is imparted. In addition, when a twist is added to the straight raw yarn to form a woven or knitted fabric, when the heat is applied, untwisting torque can cause the surface to creep and change the surface, but it is still difficult to impart stretchability. In addition, in the case of a general false twisted yarn, although crimp is present, there is no crimp expression ability higher than the existing crimp, and further, in the case of a false twisted yarn, the crimp given is fine. Too far and out of phase. Therefore, it is effective in terms of bulkiness and sheer-proofing property, but has little effect on surface change and stretchability.

In addition, when a conjugate yarn in which components composed of two polyester polymers having different heat shrink properties, which are conventionally known, are joined in parallel or in a core / sheath type is used, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is reduced. Among them, slight stretchability can be obtained in the region with low binding force, but when used as a multifilament aggregate, even if fiber shrinkage is made, it overcomes the binding force of the structure of the woven or knitted fabric and expresses crimp It lacked the ability to perform the same process as the conventional single-polymer polyester multifilament raw silk, and thus lacked bulkiness and sheer-proofing property, and could not impart a surface change.

The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies on imparting both a surface change and a stretch property to a woven or knitted fabric. In the case of knitted fabric, there must be manifested crimp in the length of the floating portion at the intersection of the warp and weft, and in the case of knitted fabric, in the length of the loop That is, it has been found that it is effective to make the crimp semi-visible, and then to express the crimp to make the crimp visible, and arrived at the present invention.

[0010]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn,
An object of the present invention is to provide a crimped yarn capable of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having a unique surface feeling, dry touch property and stretch property.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric having a new and unique surface feeling, dry touch property and stretch property in addition to bulkiness and sheer resistance by using such crimp. , At a reasonable cost.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a crimped yarn capable of obtaining a raw yarn for imparting a new surface feeling and stretchability to the woven or knitted product at a reasonable cost.

[0013]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to achieve the above object, and the invention described in claim 1 has the following features.
A conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath manner, and satisfy the following properties (a) and (b): It is a crimped yarn.

(A) 2.5 peaks / cm ≦ crimp number (CA)
≦ 10 peaks / cm (b) 8 peaks / cm ≦ expressed crimp number (CB) ≦ 30 peaks / c
m In the present invention, the conjugated multifilament yarn is
It is preferable to satisfy the following characteristics (c) to (e).

(C) 0.088 ≦ shrinkage stress (TS) (c
(N / dtex) ≦ 0.221 (d) 40% ≦ apparent shrinkage (SC) ≦ 80% (e) 2% ≦ boiling water fiber shrinkage (SW) ≦ 8% Producing a crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different properties are joined in parallel or in a core / sheath manner, and subjecting the resulting crimped conjugated multifilament yarn to a relaxing heat treatment. Can be manufactured by

In the relaxing heat treatment, the conjugated multifilament yarn can be continuously subjected to a relaxing heat treatment without spinning, drawing and winding, or after the spinning and drawing, once wound and then subjected to a relaxing heat treatment. You can also.

The present invention also provides a woven or knitted fabric having dry touch properties and stretchability, which is obtained by knitting and weaving such crimped yarn. In such a woven or knitted fabric, a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn having a fineness of 30 to 350 dtex is used, the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn is used in an amount of 35% by weight or more of the constituent yarn, and the width and length are increased by heat treatment. 1 in the direction
A preferred embodiment includes shrinking by 0 to 60% to develop crimp.

[0018]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In the present invention, a crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath manner is used. This crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn is not given a crimped structure by false twisting or other yarn processing, has the ability to develop self-crimp due to the difference in heat shrinkage properties, Means a multifilament yarn that has been subjected to a relaxing heat treatment in advance and has been subjected to crimp development while retaining the latent crimp development ability. This state is preferably heat set. In other words, the crimpable conjugate filament yarn made of the polyester of the present invention has a self-crimping ability due to a difference in heat shrinkage properties, has this latent crimping ability, and is subjected to boiling water treatment. ,
It develops crimp.

In the present invention, the crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn is a polyester filament yarn whose main repeating unit is made of ethylene terephthalate, and usually uses two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics. I do. Examples of the polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage include polyester homopolymers having different degrees of polymerization, terephthalic acid components and / or
Alternatively, one obtained by copolymerizing a third component other than the ethylene glycol component or one obtained by blending another polymer may be used.

Specifically, as the polyester polymer having a different heat shrinkability used in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate alone or ethylene terephthalate unit 80
Copolyesters containing at least mol% are preferred. As the copolymerization component of the copolyester, isophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, bisphenols,
Known components such as neopentyl glycol or 1,6-cyclohexanediol can be used. Further, other improving agents such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dyeability improving component, and a pigment can be compounded in the polyester.

The crimped yarn of the present invention has a crimp number CA of 2.5 to 10 ridges / cm, preferably 3.5 to 7.5 ridges / cm in the length direction of the multifilament. It has a potential of 8 to 30 ridges / cm, preferably 13 to 27 ridges / cm, having an expressed crimp number CB of 8 to 30 peaks / cm.

Generally, yarns constituting a woven or knitted fabric are interlaced, and there are a portion having a weak binding force and a portion having a strong binding force.
That is, in the woven fabric, the crossing point between the warp and the weft has a strong binding force, and conversely, a floating portion that does not cross has a small binding force.
Further, the knitted fabric is constituted by a needle loop and a sinker loop, and the intersection of the loops has a strong binding force, and the loop itself has a weak binding force. Depending on the characteristics of the yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric, surface changes or stretchability can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric by giving a morphological change to the small binding force where the yarn floats at the intersection. Will be possible.

[0023] In the conventional production using a raw yarn, when a straight raw yarn having shrinkage is used, no change occurs on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and no stretch property is imparted. In addition, when a woven or knitted fabric is formed by using a yarn obtained by adding a twist to the straight raw yarn, heat can be applied to the woven or knitted fabric to cause a warp on the surface by the untwisting torque and change the surface. Granting is difficult. In addition, general false twisted yarn has crimping, but does not have the ability to express more than the original crimping performance, so that the surface change and stretchability imparting power are small.

On the other hand, a stretch property can be imparted by using a conjugate yarn in which two components of a conventionally known polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in parallel or in a core / sheath manner. However, no surface change could be imparted.

The inventors of the present invention have made intensive studies on imparting both a surface change and a stretch property to a woven or knitted fabric. As a result, in the production of a woven or knitted fabric, in order to easily develop latent crimp later, The manifestation of crimp must be present within the length of the unbound floating portion at the intersection of the warp and weft constituting the woven fabric, and within the length of the loop in the knitted fabric, ie, half Let it manifest,
Later, it was found that it is effective to further develop crimps to make the cramps visible.

Next, the details of the crimped semi-visible yarn which causes the yarn constituting the woven or knitted material to exhibit the actual crimp and the latent crimp will be described.

First, as described above, as a basic characteristic, the raw yarn has a crimp number CA, that is, an apparent crimp number of 2.5 to 10 peaks / cm. 8 to 30 peaks /
It is important to have an expression capacity of cm. This crimp expression ability enables crimp expression under the restraining force of the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, and the shrinkage stress TS is 0.088 ≦ TS (cN / dte).
x) ≦ 0.221, and the boiling water shrinkage SW is preferably 2 to 8% or less.
C, that is, when subjected to boiling water treatment in a free state, the shrinkage due to the onset of crimp is preferably 40 to 80%. Here, a method for measuring the above characteristics will be described.

(1) Crimp number CA of the original yarn (peak / cm): 70 mm or more of multifilament (length easy to measure)
Then, the cut single fiber is placed on a glass plate, and peaks and valleys between 1 cm are read, and the total is set to 1/2. It calculates | requires about 10 single fibers and calculates as an average value.

(2) Latent expression crimp number CB (mountain / cm):
The multifilament yarn is treated with boiling water for 15 minutes. After taking out, it is immersed in cold water for 1 minute. After air-drying, it is placed on a glass plate, projected on a screen by a projector, and peaks and valleys of 1 cm are read, and the total is reduced to half. It calculates | requires about 10 single yarns and calculates as the average value.

(3) Shrinkage stress TS (g): 250 from normal temperature
The change in shrinkage stress when heated to around ℃ is detected by a U gauge (strain gauge) and recorded on an X, Y recorder. Trial length:
100mm), heating rate 2.5 ° C / sec, initial load:
The temperature is raised at (0.088 cN / dtex × 2) g. Read the maximum stress (g) and peak temperature (° C.) from the chart.

(4) Apparent shrinkage ratio SC (%): 1 turn 1.2
The scalpel is collected 10 times with a 5 m scale. (0.00
The original length: a is measured by applying a load of 0882 cN / dtex × 10 × 2) g. (Treatment with boiling water for 15 minutes, immersion in cold water for 1 minute, air-drying, load: (0.00088
2cN / dtex × 10 × 2) g is applied to measure the original length: b. Obtain the apparent shrinkage by the following formula. Apparent shrinkage SC (%) = (ab)
/ A × 100 (5) Boiling water shrinkage SW (%): The same sample as in the measurement of apparent shrinkage is collected. Load: (0.176 cN / dtex
× 10 × 2) Measure the original length: a by applying g. 1 with boiling water
After treating for 5 minutes and allowing to cool, load: (0.176 cN / dt)
ex × 10 × 2) g and the original length: b is measured. The boiling water fiber shrinkage is determined by the following formula. Boiling water fiber shrinkage ratio SW (%) = (ab) / a × 100 In the yarn configuration having such properties, at least two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrink properties are bonded in parallel to form a composite. Alternatively, it is a compound obtained by arranging a core component in an eccentric arrangement with a sheath component and spinning, drawing, and then heat-treating under specific conditions. Specifically, a multifilament yarn having a contraction stress that develops a spiral three-dimensional crimp by stretching is obtained by relaxing heat treatment in order to partially reveal the crimp under the condition that the contraction stress does not disappear. Can be

As the two-component polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage properties used in the present invention, a polyester polymer in which one is a low-viscosity polyester component and the other is a high-viscosity polyester component is preferably used. . Specifically, in the case of a homopolyester component, the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is 0.35.
The intrinsic viscosity of the high viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.65 to 0.85. When the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is low, the melt viscosity is low, and it is difficult to form a yarn. On the other hand, if the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is too large, the conjugate multifilament yarn will have poor crimping power, and both semi-visible and latent crimping power will be reduced. On the other hand, if the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is too large, the melt viscosity becomes high, so that spinning and drawing become difficult. In addition, when the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is reduced, the crimp developing power becomes poor.

The limiting viscosity difference between the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is 0.20 to 0.4.
A range of 0 is preferred. However, when a copolymerized polyester component is used for one of the components, it is possible to further reduce the intrinsic viscosity difference between the two components. Here, the intrinsic viscosity is determined as an orthochlorophenol solution at a temperature of 25 ° C.

The composite ratio of the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component of the conjugated multifilament yarn is preferably 35 to 50:65 to 50, more preferably 40 to 50:60 to 50 by weight. Outside of this range, the manifestation of semi-visible cramps and latent crimps is inferior,
Shows a tendency not to be effective.

The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is most preferably a round cross-section, but may be a modified cross-section such as a triangular to octagonal cross-section.

Next, the method for producing the crimped yarn of the present invention will be described. The crimped yarn of the present invention is characterized in that, as described above, two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics are used in parallel or in a core from the same die. -It can be obtained by spinning and stretching in a sheathed state, and then subjecting the obtained stretched yarn to a relaxing heat treatment in the form of a thread.

In general, a conjugate yarn obtained by spinning two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages in parallel or in a core-sheath manner exhibits three-dimensional crimp by heat treatment in a subsequent step. I know I will. However, the expression is still weak, and sufficient crimp is not exhibited in a woven or knitted state. Therefore, at present, the conjugate yarn is further false-twisted to impart crimp.

As described above, as a result of examining a method for producing a conjugate yarn that exhibits crimp in a woven or knitted fabric by increasing the crimp developing power, the conjugate yarn obtained by spinning and drawing is heat-treated in a relaxed state. It is preferable to heat-set the crimp by expressing a part of the latent crimp-expressing power.

The crimping number CA of the crimped yarn of the present invention is 2.5 to 10 peaks / cm.
The texture in the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, by causing the crimped yarn crimped ridges or valleys to be present in the small portion of the binding force of the loop, when subjected to another relaxing heat treatment in the dyeing process of the woven or knitted fabric, In addition, it has the potential to produce crimp as a potential, and as a result, it can produce crimp on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, changing the surface, giving a dry touch and even stretching. .

[0040] The crimped form of the crimped yarn of the present invention includes spinning,
This is completely different from the crimped form developed in the original yarn of the drawn yarn. That is, the crimping of the original yarn of the conjugated multifilament yarn as it is spun and drawn exhibits a spiral three-dimensional coil shape, whereas the crimping form of the self-crimped yarn according to the present invention is a so-called three-dimensional coil. It has a wavy form that is nearly two-dimensional. This wavy form is 3
It is considered that, when the conjugate helical yarn of the one-dimensional helical coil shape is subjected to relaxing heat treatment, the polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage shrink and undergo light heat fixation, and exhibit a wave shape close to two-dimensional. On the other hand, the three-dimensional helical coiled form has a small tensile stress for crimping and a small developed stress. On the other hand, when a relaxation heat treatment is applied as in the present invention to cause crimping to occur in a part and lightly heat-set, a crimped form of a three-dimensional helical coil is formed at the peaks and valleys of the crimping. Crimps are fixed with the potential to express. For this reason, the tensile stress of the crimp is large, and the strain is recovered at a portion where the binding force is small at the intersection of the woven or knitted fabric, so that a relatively loose state is likely to occur.

Examples of these crimped forms are shown in FIGS. FIG. 1 is a photograph showing an ordinary spun and drawn three-dimensional spiral coiled conjugate yarn, in which (a) shows a multifilament and (b) shows a single filament constituting the multifilament. FIG. 2 shows a crimped form of the self-crimped yarn of the present invention. Similarly, (a) is a photograph showing a multifilament, and (b) is a photograph showing a single filament constituting the multifilament. These photographs were enlarged by a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.

Further, as a characteristic of the self-crimped yarn of the present invention, a self-crimped yarn having a crimp number of 2.5 to 10 ridges / cm is used to form a woven or knitted fabric, and a relaxation heat treatment is performed by a reheat treatment in the dyeing process. When received, the number of expressed crimps is 8-30
Preferred yarn properties as the ability to develop crimps of crests / cm include the shrinkage stress TS: 0.088 listed above.
2 ≦ TS (cN / dtex) ≦ 0.221, boiling water fiber shrinkage SW: 2% ≦ SW ≦ 8%, and apparent shrinkage S
C: There is 40% ≦ SC ≦ 80%.

When the woven or knitted fabric using the self-crimped yarn is subjected to re-relaxation heat treatment in the dyeing process to exhibit crimp,
If the boiling water shrinkage of the self-crimped yarn is less than 2%, no crimping will be exhibited, and if it is more than 8%, the developed one will be too fine to exhibit the effect as crimping.

The shrinkage stress of the self-crimped yarn is important as a characteristic for causing the crimp generated due to the shrinkage to develop against the binding force of the tissue in the woven or knitted fabric.
In addition, an apparent shrinkage rate is a raw yarn characteristic that can determine the crimping power of a self-crimped yarn. Whether or not there is a shrinkage stress or a fiber shrinkage stress that causes crimping of the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn by the relaxation heat treatment can be determined from the apparent shrinkage. The apparent shrinkage ratio indicates a change in length of the shrinkage due to the onset of crimp when a self-crimped yarn is taken into a case and subjected to boiling water shrinkage treatment.
When the apparent shrinkage ratio SC is less than 40% and more than 80%, the onset of crimp may not be sufficient or the onset crimp may be too fine.

One of the technical points for realizing the yarn properties of the present invention is that, in the yarn forming process, after the conjugate multifilament yarn is spun and drawn, the latent stress due to shrinkage stress is developed while crimping is developed. The point is to carry out a relaxation heat treatment for semi-crisical manifestation of crimps, which has a crimp expression power.

It is generally said that the relaxation heat treatment of a highly oriented stretched yarn relaxes the orientation and lowers the shrinkage stress. It was also found that even if heat treatment was performed by relaxing heat treatment under relaxation conditions to partially reveal the crimps and then heat fixation, it was possible to impart latent crimps.

In the relaxing heat treatment in the present invention, the drawn yarn obtained by spinning and drawing is made to semi-clearly crimp at a relaxation rate of preferably 2% to 12%, more preferably 4% to 10%, and heat fixed. At the same time, in order to reduce the decrease in shrinkage stress and increase the expression of latent crimp,
The treatment is preferably carried out at a dry heat of 100 to 170C, more preferably 110 to 160C.

If the relaxation rate is outside the above range of 2 to 12%, the semi-visible crimp amount may be small or the overfeed amount may be too large to shrink in accordance with the winding speed and production may not be possible. Also, if the heat treatment temperature is too low, crimp is not sufficiently developed and heat set, and if the heat treatment temperature is too high, the crimp developed due to shrinkage of the fiber itself is too fine, or there is no difference in shrinkage between the two components, resulting in crimping. It becomes an elongated shape, and the shrinkage stress decreases, which is not preferable. As the heat treatment method, there are a contact type hot plate method and a non-contact type (hollow heater) method. However, since the heat receiving effect is different, the heater touch time is set in consideration of the heater length, necessary fiber characteristics, etc. can do.

The heat treatment system of the present invention is usually carried out in a continuous process of spinning and drawing in the spinning process. However, a separation system in which the drawn yarn obtained by spinning and drawing is subjected to relaxing heat treatment in another production system is also used. It is possible. According to the latter separation method, there is an advantage that after the relaxation heat treatment, it is possible to subsequently perform a composite processing with another yarn.
As a result of studying the production method of relaxing heat treatment using this conjugated multifilament drawn yarn, a winder capable of relaxing heat treatment with an existing feed roller, heater, and delivery roller, a blender, false twisting By setting the conditions on the machine, the requirements of the present invention in terms of productivity, cost and quality can be achieved.

According to the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric having a new feeling having a dry touch property and a stretch property is provided by using such crimped yarn. The fineness of the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn used for woven or knitted fabric is 30 to 35.
0 dtex, more preferably 50 dtex.
３００300 dtex.

When the woven or knitted fabric comprising the crimped yarns of the present invention is applied to clothing, yarn having a fineness of 30 to 100 dtex is generally used for thin fabrics such as shirts and blouses, and pants and skirts. 100-1,000 dt for heavy fabrics such as bottoms, suits, jackets and coats
ex yarns are suitable, and in these cases the crimp conjugated multifilament yarn has a fineness of 30
~ 350 dtex is suitable.

The woven fabric is composed of a warp and a weft and has a large degree of freedom in the structure, and the length at which the structure points of the warp and the weft intersect is relatively easily changed. However, in the case of thin woven fabrics, a method of using a strong twist yarn as the weft to express the untwisting torque at the stage of dyeing processing and have a surface effect by the grain effect has been mainly used, and it has been mainly used for twisting and temporary twisting. Costly means such as twisting were not used.

In the present invention, crimped conjugate multifilament yarns are used, and the arrangement of warps and wefts and the density balance are changed to change the length of crimping of crimped yarns due to changes in the length of texture points. And the presence of valleys, to express crimp by relaxing heat treatment in the dyeing process, etc.
The effect of three-dimensional crimping can be imparted to the surface of the woven fabric. As a result, a woven fabric having more excellent surface change, dry touch, and stretchability can be obtained. In a thick fabric, since a multifilament yarn having a large fineness can be used, the effects of surface change, stretchability, and dry texture can be easily obtained.

In the case of a knitted fabric, both the warp knitting and the flat knitting (circular knitting) need only be constituted by stitches (loops) and knitted with a gauge suitable for the thickness of the yarn. Determined by gauge. The larger the loop length is, the coarser, and the smaller the loop length, the denser. Depending on the loop length and the size of the crimp, the surface change, stretchability and dry touch of the knitted fabric change. For example, the crimp number of the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn is 2.5 to 10 peaks / c.
m, the length of one peak is equivalent to 4 to 1 mm, and 30 to 1
The loop length of the knitting machine used for the knitting of 00 dtex is in the range of 4 to 1.5 mm. That is, one crest portion of the crimped yarn can be present in one loop, and when subjected to a relaxation heat treatment in a re-heat treatment such as a dyeing process,
Latent expression crimps are developed and the number of crimps is easily increased to 8 to 30
Since the shape of the developed crimp has a three-dimensional structure, a new expression is given to the surface of the knitted fabric. Further, the thickness (single fiber fineness) of the single filament constituting the crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn is preferably 1.1 dtex or more in terms of crimping power, and excellent surface change and dry feeling are obtained. A certain woven or knitted fabric is obtained. In addition, when the single fiber fineness is 15 dtex or less, a three-dimensional three-dimensional shape of expressed crimp is particularly preferable, and a material excellent in surface change and excellent in texture can be obtained. In the present invention, the single fiber fineness is more preferably 2 to 10 dtex.

Generally, yarns constituting a woven or knitted fabric are interlaced, and there are a portion having a weak binding force and a portion having a strong binding force in a tissue. That is, in the woven fabric, the crossing point between the warp and the weft has a strong binding force, and conversely, a floating portion that does not cross has a small binding force. Further, the knitted fabric is constituted by a needle loop and a sinker loop, and the intersection of the loops has a strong binding force, and the loop itself has a weak binding force. Therefore, in order to impart a surface change or a stretch property to a woven or knitted fabric by its constituent yarn, it is effective to give a morphological change to a floating portion or a loop having a small binding force of the yarn. It is the presence of shrinkage.

In the woven or knitted fabric comprising the crimped yarn of the present invention, it is preferable to use the above-mentioned conjugate multifilament yarn in 35% by weight or more of the constituent yarn. If the conjugated multifilament yarn is less than 35% by weight, the crimping power will be poor, and the desired surface changes such as swelling (bulkiness), sheer resistance, surface effect, stretchability, and dryness It is difficult to get a touch texture. Therefore, it is preferably at least 40% by weight,
The higher the ratio, the more the effect of the present invention can be obtained. 100% by weight
May be.

In the case of a woven fabric, the warp and / or weft is the conjugated multifilament yarn, or is arranged in the warp and / or weft together with another yarn, or is a composite with another yarn. Is also good. The characteristics of the other yarns to be combined are not particularly limited, but a yarn having a low boiling water shrinkage ratio is preferable from the viewpoint of imparting stretchability.

The woven or knitted fabric using the conjugated multifilament yarn of the present invention is further subjected to a heat treatment to develop and manifest the latent crimp of the yarn, thereby achieving the bulkiness and prevention of the object of the present invention. It is a woven or knitted fabric with excellent transparency, new unique surface feeling, dry touch, and stretchability. The heat shrinkage in this case is preferably 10 to 60% in the width and length directions.

The woven or knitted fabric comprising the crimped yarn of the present invention can be produced, for example, by the following method.

First, a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn constituting a woven or knitted fabric is joined side by side or core / sheath with at least two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties from the same die. The yarn that has been subjected to spinning and drawing in a stretched state and has a contraction stress that develops a spiral three-dimensional crimp by drawing is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment in order to partially reveal the crimp under the condition that the contraction stress does not disappear, Further, the crimp is obtained by heat setting.

That is, the conjugate multifilament is produced by spinning and drawing, and then performing a crimp semi-realizing relaxation heat treatment for imparting a latent crimp developing force due to shrinkage stress while developing crimp.

Usually, it is said that the relaxation heat treatment of a highly oriented stretched yarn relaxes the orientation and lowers the shrinkage stress. However, depending on the conditions of the relaxation heat treatment, the heat treatment may be performed by relaxing heat treatment to partially reveal the crimp and heat setting. Can also give rise to latent crimps.

The relaxing heat treatment conditions at this time include a relaxation rate of 2% to 12%, preferably 4% to 10%.
In order to reduce the shrinkage stress and increase the latent crimping force, the treatment temperature is preferably 100 ° C. to 170 ° C. in dry heat, and 110 ° C. It is preferable that it is -160 degreeC.

A relax ratio of 2 to 12% is preferable in that the amount of semi-visible crimp and the shrinkage during winding are kept at an appropriate level. Further, when the treatment temperature is 100 to 170 ° C., it is preferable in that sufficient crimp is developed and heat set, and the shrinkage stress is appropriately maintained.

As the heat treatment method, there are a method using a contact-type hot plate and a method using a non-contact type (hollow heater). However, since the heat receiving effect is different, the heater touch time is set by considering the heater length and the like. It is preferable to set according to the fiber characteristics.

As the heat treatment system, continuous spinning / drawing in the spinning process, or a separation system in which the drawn yarn obtained by spinning / drawing is subjected to a relaxing heat treatment in another production system is also possible.

The obtained crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn is used as 35% or more of the constituent yarn, and woven and knitted by a usual method.

In the present invention, such a woven or knitted fabric is further subjected to a heat treatment to further develop crimp to obtain a new woven or knitted fabric.

[0069]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples.

(Examples 1 to 4, Comparative Example 1)
A conjugated multifilament unstretched yarn (12 filaments) in which a low-viscosity component composed of polyethylene terephthalate of 40 and a high-viscosity component composed of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 are bonded in a parallel composite at a weight composite ratio of 50:50 ) Is spun, and the drawing ratio is changed as a drawing condition to obtain 5 in Table 1 having different fiber properties.
Various types of drawn yarns were obtained. Using these drawn yarns, self-winding yarns were prepared by changing the relaxation heat treatment conditions. The obtained crimped yarn was knitted with a 32 gauge tube knitting machine, and the obtained knitted fabric was dyed at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and the surface unevenness change (expression of grain), texture, and stretchability (power) were compared. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0071]

[Table 1] In Examples 1, 3, and 4, all of the self-crimped yarns after the relaxation heat treatment had sufficient crimp counts and manifested crimp counts, and the effect could be confirmed in a knitted fabric. Further, Example 2 was slightly inferior to Example 1 because the number of crimps of the self-crimped yarn was slightly lower, and the fiber shrinkage and the shrinkage stress were also lower.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, the spun and drawn conjugated multifilament yarn was not subjected to the relaxation treatment, and the contraction rate of the raw yarn itself was large but the contraction stress was small, and the relaxation heat treatment was sufficient for the relaxation. As a result, a self-crimped yarn satisfying the number of crimps and the number of expressed crimps could not be obtained.

(Example 5, Comparative Example 2) A yarn obtained by sizing a 55 dtex-36F triangular cross-section yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate was used as the warp, and the raw yarns of Example 4 and Comparative Example 1 were used for desin, respectively. The greige machine was woven by driving as a standard weft. The obtained greige was put into a usual dyeing process for decin fabric. In the finished woven fabric, the woven fabric using the yarn of Example 4 of the present invention exhibited fine grain on the woven fabric surface, exhibited an elegant expression with unevenness change, and exhibited stretchability in the lateral direction of dry touch. Had. On the other hand, the woven fabric using the yarn of Comparative Example 1 had a smooth and flat surface, a smooth touch, and almost no stretchability.

(Example 6) A low-viscosity component composed of 100% polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.40,
A high-viscosity component consisting of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 is mixed with a side composite at a weight composite ratio of 50:50.
The conjugated multifilament undrawn yarn bonded to the by-side is spun, drawn and 55 dt
An ex-12F drawn yarn was obtained. The obtained drawn yarn was subjected to a relaxing heat treatment using a yarn processing machine equipped with a hollow Dowsum type heater having a heater length of 1 m and usually used as a fiber mixing machine, to obtain a crimped yarn. The conditions of the relaxation heat treatment were a heater temperature of 120 ° C. and a relaxation rate of 7%.
The raw yarn characteristics of the obtained crimped yarn have a fineness of 55.0 dte.
x, crimp number (CA): 5.4 peaks / cm, latent expression crimp number (CB): 13.7 peaks / cm, shrinkage stress: 0.194 cN
/ Dtex (peak temperature 188 ° C.), boiling water shrinkage 3.4
%, And an apparent shrinkage of 68.0%.

The above two crimped yarns were combined, and 1000
Twisting of t / m (Z twist) was performed. Separately, a half-drawn yarn 88dtex-2 having a characteristic of elongation of 160% spun from polyethylene terephthalate at a spinning speed of 3,000 m / min.
The 4-filament yarn is heat-set by a 160 ° C. dry heat heater, and the yarn is air-entangled with a 110 dtex-18 filament made of polyethylene terephthalate having a characteristic of boiling water shrinkage of 12% by an interlace nozzle to obtain 170 dtex-42. The filament was made of a polyester different shrinkage mixed yarn, and the yarn was twisted at 800 t / m (S twist). Each of the obtained two types of yarns was twist-set by steam at 65 ° C. for 40 minutes. One of these yarns was alternately arranged in each of a warp and a weft, and a woven fabric having a Nanako structure was woven in a water jet loom (WJL). In addition, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the different shrinkage mixed fiber used was 8%.

The density of the greige machine thus produced was 117 pieces / 2.
It was 54 cm, 79 weft / 2.54 cm. The weight ratio between the crimped yarn and the polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber in the greige was 39:61. About this greige
Processing was performed under standard processing conditions using the standard dyeing process of Shinshinsen, refining / relaxing, presetting, alkali weight reduction, dyeing, and finishing. Processing density is 18
2 pieces / 2.54 cm, weft 100 pieces / 2.54 cm, processing shrinkage to greige is 55% in the width direction and 26% in the length direction. A fabric with excellent dryness, stretch and stretch back and a delicate touch was obtained.

For comparison, a wooly-processed yarn 110dtex-36F, which is generally commercially available, has a capacity of 1000 dx.
t / m twisted yarn, and 800 t / m additional twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn 165 dtex-48F having a boiling water shrinkage of 8% as warp yarn, and warp yarn and weft yarn, respectively. One is alternately arranged,
Weaving was performed under the same conditions as in the example, and dyed and finished. When the obtained woven fabric was evaluated, it was found that there was no change in the surface and there was no stretch property and lacked a sense of quality.

(Example 7, Comparative Example 3) Using the same yarn as the crimped yarn obtained in Example 6, an interlace was produced by a JIL-7 type 32 gauge 30 inch double circular knitting machine (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho). Knitting was performed with rock organization. The knitting conditions were as follows: width 180 cm, length 64 m, weight 8.9 k (basis weight 140 g / m), well x course 4
The test was performed at 2.3 × 55 with a loop length of 197 mm / 100 w. Subsequently, the obtained green fabric was subjected to a dyeing process under ordinary conditions in the steps of refining / relaxing, preliminary setting, alkali weight reduction, dyeing, and finishing setting.

The properties of the obtained finished product were 115 cm in width, 46.6 m in length, and 7.4 k in weight (weight per unit area: 160).
g / m), and the well × course was 64.6 × 76.8. The obtained circular knitted fabric shrinks by 53% in the wale direction and 40% in the course direction to exhibit three-dimensional crimp, and has a bulky and transparent effect and a surface effect obtained by a conventional yarn. It showed a unique expression of three-dimensional crimp that could not be performed, and had a dry touch with a soft texture. Also, as shown in Table 2,
The stretchability is a feeling of power as compared with a conventional false twisted yarn knitted fabric, and is extremely novel. This is because the crimping number 5.4 peaks / cm expressed in the crimped yarn corresponds to 1.8 mm / 1 peak, whereas the loop length is 1.97 mm, so that the crimping is performed in one loop. 12. There is one crest, and the number of latently expressed crimps that appears in the dyeing process
This is considered to be an effect that facilitates the development of three-dimensional crimp of seven peaks / cm.

For comparison, generally commercially available false twisted yarn 55dtex-24F (two-heater false twisted yarn)
And knitting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 7, and dyeing was performed simultaneously with the product of Example 7. The obtained knitted fabric showed the expression of a normal processed yarn, and although it was excellent in bulkiness and sheer-proofing property unlike a multifilament raw yarn, it lacked a sense of quality and had poor stretchability. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0081]

[Table 2] [Measurement conditions] JIS (1018) "Knitted fabric test method"-According to the graph method-Grip interval: 7.6 cm-Tension speed: 10 cm / min-Chart speed: 20 cm / min-Initial load: 3 g-Constant load : 1.5 kg extension (Example 8) 55dtex-12F obtained in Example 6
A warp knitted fabric was prototyped using crimped yarn. Using a 28 gauge single tricot machine, the two crimped yarns were knitted with the atlas structure using the crimped yarn. The knitting conditions were a width of 128.6 cm, a length of 433 racks, a weight of 8.4 k, and a well × course of 28.0 × 90.0. Subsequently, the obtained greige was subjected to a dyeing process under normal conditions in a greige set, refining / relaxation, preliminary set, alkali weight reduction, dyeing, and finishing set processes.

The obtained finished product had a width of 115 cm, a length of 46.6 m and a weight of 7.4 k (weight of 160 g / weight).
m), the well × course was 64.6 × 76.8.
The obtained warp knitted fabric shrinks by 24% in the wale direction and 43% in the course direction to exhibit three-dimensional crimp, and has a bulky and transparent effect, and the surface effect can be obtained conventionally. It shows a unique expression of 3D crimps that could not be done, has a dry touch with a soft texture,
The stretchability is a feeling of power as compared with a conventional false twisted yarn knitted fabric, and is extremely novel.

(Example 9, Comparative Example 4) Intrinsic viscosity 0.40
A low-viscosity component consisting of polyethylene terephthalate,
A conjugated multifilament unstretched yarn in which a high-viscosity component composed of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 is bonded in a parallel type at a weight composite ratio of 50:50 is stretched, and then stretched to form a stretched yarn of 55 dtex-12F. Obtained. Using this drawn yarn, an air jet crimper NO. 35A / machine (heater:
Tube heater with heating medium vapor heating type, heater length 8
35 mm) to produce a self-crimped yarn. Conjugate multifilament yarn 55dtex-
The characteristics of 12F are fineness 50.9 dtex and elongation 21.1.
%, Boiling water shrinkage rate 5.1%, shrinkage stress 0.441 cN / d
tex. This yarn is heated to a heater temperature of 100 to 170.
C. and an overfeed rate of 4 to 10%. Overfeed rate 7%, heater temperature 130
C. at a yarn processing speed of 310 m / min., The fiber characteristics after relaxation heat treatment were 52.2 dtex, elongation 15.2%, and crimp number (C
A) 3.6 peaks / cm, expressed crimp number (CB) 15.2 peaks / cm, shrinkage stress (TS) 0.194 cN / dtex,
Apparent shrinkage (SC) 61.2%, boiling water fiber shrinkage (S
W) A crimped yarn having 3.8% and meeting the requirements of the present invention was obtained. 32 yarns each before and after processing
Knitted with a gauge tube knitting machine, dyed at 100 ° C for 30 minutes,
The surface unevenness change (texture), texture, and stretchability (power) were compared.

As a result, as the characteristics of the self-crimped yarn after the relaxation heat treatment, the number of crimps and the number of expressed crimps were sufficient, and the effect could be confirmed on a knitted fabric.
As a comparison, a knitted fabric obtained by directly knitting unprocessed raw yarn had the same quality as a general flat yarn not using conjugate spinning, and had poor stretchability.

(Example 10) The yarn used in Example 9 was used as a relax heat treatment machine in a yarn winding winder STP310 type MA / C of a pan winding type using a ring twister manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho Co., Ltd. MA / C. Using a relaxation heat treatment machine equipped with a length of 1 m), a relaxation treatment was performed in the same manner as in Example 9. The characteristics of the crimped yarn obtained under the conditions of a heater temperature of 130 ° C., a relaxation rate of 7%, and a yarn processing delivery speed of 350 m / min are as follows: fineness 52.7 dtex, elongation 14.8%, crimp number (CA) 3.3. 12. Crests / cm, expressed crimp number (CB)
7 peaks / cm, shrinkage stress (TS) 0.185cN / dte
x, the apparent shrinkage (SC) was 63.0%, and the boiling water fiber shrinkage (SW) was 3.6%, and a crimped yarn satisfying the requirements of the present invention was obtained.

The raw yarn before processing and the raw yarn after processing are each 3
Knitted with a 2-gauge tube knitting machine, dyed at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and compared with changes in surface irregularities (texture), texture, and stretchability (power). The results had the same tendency as in Example 9.

[0087]

According to the present invention, a parallel or core / sheath composite spinning of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties is achieved.
The polyester multifilament yarn obtained by drawing is subjected to a relax heat treatment to form a self-crimped yarn, and the woven or knitted fabric using the self-crimped yarn is relaxed again in the dyeing process, so that the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is crimped. Surface change due to effect, with both dry touch and stretch,
A new sense of weaving and knitting can be obtained.

Further, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can exhibit its characteristics in the field of light clothing applications such as shirts and blouses by utilizing such characteristics.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a drawing-substitute photograph showing the shape of a spun and drawn three-dimensional helical coiled conjugate yarn, wherein (a) shows a multifilament and (b) shows a single filament constituting the multifilament. .

FIG. 2 is a drawing substitute photograph showing a crimped form of a crimped yarn of the present invention, wherein (a) shows a multifilament and (b) shows a single filament constituting the multifilament.

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[Procedure amendment]

[Submission date] June 16, 1998

[Procedure amendment 1]

[Document name to be amended] Drawing

[Correction target item name] All figures

[Correction method] Change

[Correction contents]

FIG.

FIG. 2

Continued on the front page (72) Inventor Hiroaki Tatsumi 4845 Mishima-shi, Shizuoka Pref.Toray Industries, Inc. Mishima Factory (72) Inventor Tatsuaki Matsuda 4845 Mishima-shi, Shizuoka Pref. 4845 Mishima-shi, Shizuoka Pref.

Claims (9)

[Claims] 1. A conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two components of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in parallel or in a core / sheath manner, and have the following properties (a) and (b): A crimped yarn characterized by satisfaction. (A) 2.5 peaks / cm ≦ crimp number (CA) ≦ 10 peaks / c
m (b) 8 peaks / cm ≦ number of expressed crimps (CB) ≦ 30 peaks / c
m 2. The crimped crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the conjugated multifilament yarn satisfies the following characteristics (c) to (e). (C) 0.088 ≦ shrinkage stress (TS) (cN / dte
x) ≦ 0.221 (d) 40% ≦ apparent shrinkage (SC) ≦ 80% (e) 2% ≦ boiling water fiber shrinkage (SW) ≦ 8% 3. A method for producing a conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in parallel or in a core-sheath manner, and the conjugated multifilament yarn is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. A method for producing a crimped yarn according to claim 1 or 2. 4. The method for producing a crimped yarn according to claim 3, wherein the conjugated multifilament yarn is continuously subjected to a relaxation heat treatment without spinning, drawing and winding. 5. The method for producing a crimped yarn according to claim 3, wherein the conjugated multifilament yarn is spun, drawn, temporarily wound, and then subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. 6. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the crimped yarn according to claim 1. 7. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 6, wherein a conjugate multifilament yarn having a fineness of 30 to 350 dtex is used. 8. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 6, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn is used in an amount of 35% by weight or more of the constituent yarn. 9. A heat treatment is carried out in a width and length direction of 10 mm.
The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 6, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is formed by shrinking by up to 60% to develop a crimp.